SURF POV - Rincon Goes the whole way
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- čas přidán 10. 08. 2023
- Perfect waves, sheet glass and minute + long waves surfed at Rincon Point on Day 3 of the Wild West Swell.
This was the end of an intense surf bender. I was completely gassed and surfed pretty mediocre. Surfing a 5'10 J7 Firefly Quad, artwork courtesy of Craigslist guy I bought it off of a couple days before.
Winter of '22 / '23 was pretty good to us here in Santa Barbara, but only for a couple months. I had my best sessions ever here in town, none of which I recorded. Good waves have been so few - and - far between in the last several years, and after 2+ years of recovering from an injury, that I felt it was important to reconnect with the pure joy and feeling of surfing and not be overly concerned with a camera.
That is set to change heading into a very hyped El Niño winter.
This is one of the last of my old, weirdly formatted GoPro videos from previous winters, and marks a new era of thePOVchannel going forwards. My goal is to evolve this channel beyond just surfing and strictly RAW POV style footage, while staying true to its roots.
Subscribe for a lot more coming up.
btw- Have you ever surfed with a GoPro in your mouth? Let me describe what the process (usually) is like from my POV:
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-The waves are good today.
-You decide you have been surfing well enough recently that you want to try filming with the GoPro. You drive past all of your favorite, uncrowded surf spots to go film at the place you aren't worried about blowing up online.
-You arrive at the surf spot and the waves didn't evaporate once you pull out the camera. Already you are steeling yourself for the feeling of paddling out into a crowd with a camera on your face.
-You stick out like a sore thumb in the sea of black wetsuits. Everyone assumes you are a kook, or out there to blow up the spot. People stare at you. You cant blame them.
-If the GoPro miraculously cooperates for your session without freezing or inexplicably running out of battery, you might catch some good waves with it rolling.
-When riding the waves, you are very aware of the camera hanging from your teeth. You are completely removed from the mental flow state and intuitive feeling needed to surf good. Instead, you are thinking too hard. You push too hard on the turns, or dont give your bottom turns enough time, and worst of all, fail to look back over your trailing shoulder on the tail end of a cutback. It feels like the camera will collide with your back shoulder and you fail to carry turns fully back into the pocket and end up surfing laterally and conservatively.
-You wipe out on a 3 foot wave, and the camera rattles your teeth. You wonder to yourself how people like Nathan Florence wipeout on 10 foot slabs with a GoPro in their mouth, without losing all their teeth.
-The style and flow you felt without the camera yesterday is long gone. You leave the ocean with a gnawing dissatisfaction.
-You go home that night and pop up the videos. The sounds of your own heavy breathing pours out of your speakers. That 6 foot bomb you caught? looks tiny. You criticize everything. That one good feeling turn you did actually was bad because your back foot was too far forward on your traction pad. Or perhaps there was a fat drop of water on the lens.
-You resign yourself to not worry about it too much, and tell yourself that next time you take the GoPro out, you will try to not think too hard and ultimately try to accept the fact that it will never be perfect.
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Complaining over.
It's all a mental battle, and there are people crushing the POV game right now.
There's a lot of hype around El Niño 2024. Let's hope it lives up to it, and I would love to take you all along for the ride.
That was epic! 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Dream destinazione!
Not a bad spot on the perfect day...
Now I understand the Surf Punks song ♪♫ Locals Only ♫♪.
Sick video man. Rincon is the sickest wave and I miss it every day. I live on Oahu the Mecca of surfing and I still dream about long Rincon walls all the time.
Totally agree with your GoPro experience haha. I think to get over that you have to surf with it all the time, but then you lose the freedom of not having one. People definitely respect you a bit less too and it makes me self conscious.
Your videos have been sick dude. Looking forward to this winter season 🤙
Cant wait for the contact- lens camera 🤙
I was out that day and saw u
Weird to stumble upon surfing vids on your channel! I thought you were from Arizona, are you originally from California?