Are These Mistakes Stopping You from Climbing Harder? (How to Fix)
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
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⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Preview and Intro
00:32 Climb 1: Fatigue and "high angle" grip positions
01:09 Climb 1: Lesson 1
02:35 Climb 1: Lesson 1 DEMO
03:07 Climb 1: Lesson 2
04:21 Climb 1: Lesson 2 DEMO
05:20 Climb 1: Lesson 3
06:00 Climb 1: Lesson 3 DEMO
06:25 Climb 1: Lesson 4
07:28 Climb 1: Lesson 5
08:00 Climb 2: Efficiency and body position for tall climbers
08:32 Climb 2: Lesson 1
09:31 Climb 2: Lesson 2
10:41 Climb 2: Lesson 2 DEMO
11:40 Climb 3: Shoulder control and compromised body positions
12:11 Climb 3: Lesson 1
13:53 Climb 3: Lesson 2
15:13 Climb 3: Lesson 3
16:25 Climb 3: Lesson 3 DEMO
17:41 Climb 3: Lesson 4
19:14 Climb 3: Lesson 4 DEMO
22:40 Climb 4: Heel hook compensations and punting
23:37 Climb 4: Lesson 1
24:47 Climb 4: Lesson 1 DEMO
25:37 Climb 4: Lesson 2
26:46 Climb 4: Lesson 3
28:37 Climb 5: 4'10" climber and assessing hold choice
29:10 Climb 5: Lesson 1
32:08 Outro
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 126
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/i...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.1/jp/deed.en
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy - Sport
Hope y'all don't mind two long videos back to back! Timestamps are in the description as always, but I'll put them here too for easy access:
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Preview and Intro
00:32 Climb 1: Fatigue and "high angle" grip positions
01:09 Climb 1: Lesson 1
02:35 Climb 1: Lesson 1 DEMO
03:07 Climb 1: Lesson 2
04:21 Climb 1: Lesson 2 DEMO
05:20 Climb 1: Lesson 3
06:00 Climb 1: Lesson 3 DEMO
06:25 Climb 1: Lesson 4
07:28 Climb 1: Lesson 5
08:00 Climb 2: Efficiency and body position for tall climbers
08:32 Climb 2: Lesson 1
09:31 Climb 2: Lesson 2
10:41 Climb 2: Lesson 2 DEMO
11:40 Climb 3: Shoulder control and compromised body positions
12:11 Climb 3: Lesson 1
13:53 Climb 3: Lesson 2
15:13 Climb 3: Lesson 3
16:25 Climb 3: Lesson 3 DEMO
17:41 Climb 3: Lesson 4
19:14 Climb 3: Lesson 4 DEMO
22:40 Climb 4: Heel hook compensations and punting
23:37 Climb 4: Lesson 1
24:47 Climb 4: Lesson 1 DEMO
25:37 Climb 4: Lesson 2
26:46 Climb 4: Lesson 3
28:37 Climb 5: 4'10" climber and assessing hold choice
29:10 Climb 5: Lesson 1
32:08 Outro
Are you kidding, these are great! Definitely not too long.
@@simonrobbins815 agreed.
I really, really enjoy the practical demonstrations on the wall after the analysis. It's hard to conceptualize three dimensions when drawing on the 2D image, watching Dan do it on the wall is great. The heel hook demonstration gave me an ah-ha moment, I'm clearly doing it wrong :)
Thank you for the feedback! Glad to know that the demonstrations are useful!
These are so good! Could you do a practical "how to review your own video footage at the boulder?". Maybe three key principles for watching your own footage. Plus what apps are helpful for a quick review with no service. For example I can do a move in isolation but can't do it from the start. What is a quick way to analyze what is different on my phone? Right now I go home and take screenshots and then flip back and forth to see what is going on and it takes forever.
Thanks! And great idea!
We’ve been meaning to do one for a while, but it hasn’t made it to the top of the pile yet.
Great fucking idea!!! 😮
I'm so honored to be climber #5 🤩 thanks for the awesome feedback, itching to return to bishop (as soon as the town's recovered from recent rain/snow) to try Dan's tips on the rock!! Great content as always!
The demonstrations in the gym make this so much easier to learn from! This format keeps getting better!
Nice! Thanks for the feedback and stoked to hear it is helpful!
Highest quality climbing analysis channel out there 😍
I gotta say, this is some of the best climbing content I ever watched, huge props for the detailed analysis and to everyone sending in their fails to enable it
Awesome! Thanks for the comment/glad you're enjoying this.
LOVE the demos. Y'all are too good to us.
Having Dan demo some of the body postition "in the field" was SUPER HELPFUL!!!! MORE OF THIS PLEASE 🤠
Such a useful video nice!
Glad you guys finally mentioned LCL vulnerability in heel hooks!! I blew my LCL in a heel hook when I was tired on a sport route. I’ve seen this happen to Pete Whittaker and Miho Nonaka and I haven’t heard great commentary on the phenomenon. We hear so much about A2 pulleys and DIP joints and not enough about sketchy heel hooks!
Glad we were able to bring some attention to the matter and sorry that you have had this experience! Hope you are climbing well again though!
Always love when you guys have Dan on to analyze some technique. I learn so much every time.
Improving on perfect! xD I love the practical examples with Dan. And also the red circles directing our attention before actually addressing the issues. Best format on youtube! Hands down!
I love the demonstrations!
It’s super enjoyable to watch you two. You both talk in the perfect speed, I can follow well, the extra text in the video is also helpful. I’m taking away a lot, feeling truly encouraged and inspired for my next sessions 🙌
Really like these anatomy video. Nice format with the climb #. Great demo from Dan. Thanks!
Love this series!
Thank you for the video. I really like this idea of approaching climbing and the use of our bodies in practice in a very objective way. Understanding that there are forces at play, ways to optimize them, while taking into account the bio dynamics of this superb tool that is our body. I hope to be able to keep this in mind and to be both more attentive to my body (if it hurts it's probably because I'm not engaging my body properly for the movement) and to have a more technical reflection on the optimization of my gestures.
This is clutch! Stoked about this series:)
You guys are the real stuff! Thank you so much for your serious commitment to this topic, which can be very deep in terms of comprehension and super important to climbers health. Body awareness is everything I strive for in climbing and life
Raising the bar once again! Great vid
Jason, the Aleena / VPN skit was golden. Great production quality!
Your videos are amazing, man! Thanks a lot 🔥
This video series is so good. Some of the best, most informative climbing content on YT!
Thank you! Glad you're enjoying them.
I am a bit confused around 6:52. Is it better for the tendons to have the wrist extended? I thought a neutral wrist was better, but maybe just for the open-hand grip? How much wrist extension should I use when gripping, and for which grip types? Thank you!
i love these videos, especially with the added in-gym explanation
Thanks for the feedback! Glad the in-gym explanations were helpful.
Thank you for this amazing content. Makes me always want to go to the gym and Improve my technique.
Great idea! So useful for improving your climbing.
I love the demonstrations very much. It's one thing to see the arrows etc. but quite another when being to show it at a wall! Love it!
Nice! Thank you for the feedback. Glad that it was helpful in clarifying!
Thank you guys for the analysis on Plumber's Crack Traverse! I appreciate all the tips and demonstrations you provided. 🙏🏼 Also, thanks for mentioning the pad placement and importance of safety. I try to be a "crash pad architect" at every boulder problem. 😂
Our pleasure, thanks for submitting! And haha thank you for the wonderful safety demonstration. Bouldering needs good pad architects ;)
Having seen that gruesome horse flats video of yours i can understand why 😎
@@meezyobreezy Haha, exactly! IYKYK. 😎
The only reason I have two ankles rn is because of Ashley’s pad tips tbh
@@Sheldon_Steines LOL. That's a real testimonal!
Those videos are so good and one can always learn something from every single example.
Thank you guys!
Glad you like them!
I really like these explanations. To get even more learning out of this content I have an idea for a variation.
A video like this, but with us thinking about the movements first:
- short clip with a teachable moment at normal speed
- same clip in slow-motion
- ask a question
- "pause the video"
- I, the viewer think about the question and the clip for a minute
- quick answer to the question
- explanation
- next clip
- ...
I think that could help to learn more deeply and forces us to imagine ourselves in the different body positions even more.
Hello, great content as always. Love the lesson Demo's! They help tremendously.
Glad to hear it! Thank you.
Love your videos! I recently learned I have Joint Hypermobility (likely EDS), and many recommendations out there do not necessarily apply to me. It would be great if you could make a video discussing considerations for climbers with this condition.
These are always my favorite videos from you guys. Could watch hours of these. Love this stuff.
Stoked to hear you're enjoying them! Thanks for the feedback/comment.
Amazin vid! I have been struggling with shoulder stability with some time and while the band exercises do keep the issues at bay, it's hard to overload them and become stronger after a while. Can you please put out a video that trains shoulder stability with dumbells or any kind of weight?
These are so good. Love these movement reviews. I watch them before climbing. Haven’t heard anyone talk about the “normal” vector since college.
Awesome video. Congrats!
What would be the difference between the rings emulating climbing movement excercises showned at 22'22'', and actual climbing on an overhanging wall with good holds?
Obviously the second adds the complexity of footwork but for easier boulder problems it's almost like standing on the ground. So in this case, why not try to create consciounsess on the wall, as hole. Thanks a lot for great VIDEO!!!!
I'm climber number 4. Thank you so much for the advice!! Question: you mentioned weak biceps femoris could cause the internal heel hook rotation. Does the conventional deadlift train that or the other hamstring muscles? I have a 405lb conventional DL, but maybe trying sumo, or Nordic curls would help? Also, I have pretty tight hips, so I'll definitely be stretching them out to make external rotation easier.
And for the top out, I definitely need to dial it! I did it once and thought I'd be fine, but dialing techniques like dropping the heel I'll definitely remember to do. Thanks so much!!
Hello climber number 4! :)
It can be the cause, yes. Those exercises all evenly load the hamstrings and thus don't create the bias to the biceps femoris you might need. But, strength might *not* be the issue. It could be the hip mobility you mentioned, or it could simply be what you are accustomed to doing. You may have started by default in that position and have just done it by default. But regardless, glad that we gave you something to consider / think about for dialing the climb in!
Glad it helped, thanks for the submission!
If it helps, I really like bent over horse stance as a hip opener. Personally I find it to be a lot more accommodating of hip structure than something like a frogged stretch, but both are good, and comes down to personal preference!
Do the nordic hamstring curls they showed in the excercise video!
What climbing shoes should I look at getting for returning from turf toe? Anything I should include into my warmup once fully recovered?
Hello dr. Hooper, ever since the video you showed face pulls i started adding them to my routine. And since i started doing those my teres minor/marjor started hurting. Any advice on why that would be and what to do to help. Thanks!
I could spend a week on the 1st 5 min of this video alone! So much good info
That’s helping me at least a lot better to understand which technic to use and also why! 🇩🇪🇺🇦✌️
First! This is my favorite series love seeing these breakdowns
Woot! Glad you enjoy it :)
Hey, loved the video and appreciated the extra effort of showing what you are talking about on the wall. There does seem to be some high-pitched feedback when yall are discussing at the tablet.
Tried with other headphones and it seems like it might just be something with my soundbar. Which doesn't make much sense because it didn't have this issue with other videos
None of us heard any feedback when watching it, so might just be a hardware issue with your soundbar
loved the video, even the promo was funny :B
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it 🙏
This is pure gold! I have been climbing a long time, and I value actual scientist’s opinion more than anything else, because your comments actually f*cking make sense. I do not know if it would create a copyright issue, but it would be really great to see you both commenting on some competition climbing videos. Not only to speak about what athletes are doing badly, but also the opposite. Anyway, thank you Hooper’s Beta for all this great content!
I think that would be a lot of fun!
I think your analysis of the climbs gets better and better. 😀
We are always looking to improve :)
What app/software are you using to compare videos side-by-side?
OnForm
Excellent 💟🌌☮️
that second clip holy crap haha
Maybe a dumb question but I can't get it out of my mind...Around 7.07min into the video (Climb 1 Lesson 4) you are discussing a wrist position.. Is the same rule applicable to considering wrist position during the bench press? I feel more stable pressing with the wrist positioned as on the right picture yet it seems wrong bcs it puts more pressure on the wrist.
It does seem to me like the climber on the left doesn’t really have his right foot to press on like the host on the right has. Doesn’t that make a huge difference here? 2:58
Really not sure about the suggestion of the matching feet / heel at 10:30, feet underneath you is definitely a good idea. Especially on vertical walls... Maybe it's more overhanging than it looks but even so that looks like a crazy idea to me.
It's about 15-20° overhanging or so, definitely steeper than it looked in the clip 😅
@@hejelinnilsson ah fair enough!
May I ask which software you are using to kind of pain on the screen,
Paint*? The app is called OnForm, if that's what you're referring to :)
Dan Beall looks like Hugh Dancy.
Algogogogo
Whenever Hooper asks people on IG to send videos in, I always consider it, but ultimately choose not to. Given the people showcased in these videos, I feel like I don't climb hard enough outdoors to even warrant a submission.
I do wish more lower end outdoor climbing (V2~5) is shown. While these videos are useful, I feel like a lot of nuance is lost on us mortals. With 80k subscribers, I'm curious how many are actually sending hard stuff (let alone outdoors) where these analyses and finetuning of movements become practical and relevant.
To recap, the boulders featured in this video in order: outdoor V8, indoor V5, outdoor V10, outdoor V6, outdoor V7.
You should send one in! Part of the issue sometimes is we simply don't receive enough quality submissions of outdoor climbs in that grade range but we would be happy to incorporate them :)
Also, the techniques discussed in these videos are relevant at all grade ranges, and I think you would be astounded how much of a difference they make at the lower grades.
I have a bunch of friends and clients climbing V0-5, and the exact same things carry come up, though typically a bit less subtle.
For the most part technique and tactical improvements are far faster, and bring similar or greater results than trying to increase strength. (Not that strength isn’t important, it will definitely be the final limiter at some point)
But you’re absolutely right! We should do an episode focusing on those grades in particular.
When you're tired, why does your body naturally begin doing things that are mechanically worse rather than naturally find ways to climb more efficiently? The same applies to fear. When you're scared, your body naturally does things that make it more likely for you to get hurt or die. The fight/flight response only seems to really work if you're running. When you're on the wall and you get scared, you begin sweating, thinking irrationally...pretty much everything that contributes to you falling. Some people say our bodies are incredible, but i say our bodies are naturally pretty fucking stupid.
This is tight, solid movement analysis. Love the range of stuff and the demos and extras, Dan is the man.
But, alas, I've got a gripe. Dan's first comment on Seven Spanish seems incorrect. Left heal is not loading into RH gaston, that would be the case if it was a toe. Oh, he catches it? It's kind of contradictory. I mean, the heal is unchanged and he draws the arrow 90 degrees to how it was first drawn. My solution for her would branch based on how the right hand feels. Does it feel bomb? then turn left foot to a toe and drop that right leg plumb, reel that RH gaston in tight, drive hips over toe, hinging around the RH to stay in the strong position. If the right hand feels bad I would do what he said.
I’m not sure where the miscommunication is, but we’re saying almost exactly the same thing here. I suggested that she move the heal so that it functions as both a heal and a toe.
There was no catch. It is too far to the left and pulls to the left. This disengages the Gaston.
She would likely have fared better with the heel an inch or so to the right. The hold rounds there and is somewhat incut. This allows you to pull with the heel to set up, then to drive with the heel to oppose. It is not the only method for this boulder, but it does work wonderfully.
A toe could certainly work. In many similar situations it could even work better. For this particular climb, the heel cams in a way that a toe cannot, and for most people it will be the superior method.
It is also far easier to set a heel than a toe in this case.
The right hand is a decently sized but flat to slopey Gaston. Opposition is essential.
I apologize if the markings weren’t clear to you. It seems to be a reasonably good tool, but the need to use 2 dimensional drawing to depict 3 dimensional holds and movements poses some difficulty.
@@danielbeall7725 ahh, okay. It’s clear. I think it’s the limitations of the visual tool that confused me.
Guys I absolutely love this series, but for people that think about body positioning so much you need to think about your neck and mic positioning, the swallowing sounds are so strong lol especially at 29:42
Other than that great as always.
We'll tell Dan to sit up straight next time 😆
@@HoopersBeta 😅 no worries the content is so good
More coffee next time 😂
Don't stack pads unless you have too? Disagree. Have a proper spotter and it is much safer.