Simple Tweaks That Will Prevent Climbing Injuries and Save Energy
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 What are we doing?
00:32 Heel hook placement changes your hinge
01:42 Simple ways to save energy and skin
03:31 Efficient technique and draped body position
04:54 Drag, crimps, and pockets are different animals
05:54 Small mistakes add up on limit boulders
08:10 Extreme body tension required even on V3
09:44 Confident climbing uses less energy
10:50 Grabbing non-existent holds
11:34 Why people get wrist injuries and don't like slopers
13:25 Does one-arm strength matter?
14:25 What happens when you control your scapula
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 110
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/s...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
- Inverted Row: Everkinetic, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
- Wrist TFCC: Elatmani s, CC BY-SA 3.0 creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons
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Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy - Sport
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Thank you for featuring my climb at Priest Draw and the corresponding feedback! Glad to showcase one of Arizona's classic boulder problems :)
Absolutely! Thank you for your submission, it was a fun one to review!
Love these videos.
These videos are so badass. Love it.
stellar episode
Great technique deep dive, Jason, Dan & Emile. Thanks
Thank you! :)
🔥 also thanks for the tip on Dr. James Lee in Chicago. Amazing resource for any climbers in the area!
Absolutely! Yes he's a great resource as well
How would you train for wrist stability and strength (as mentioned around 12:30)? Be great to have a video on that as can't find much content, and personally I get constant popping and clicking. Cheers 🙂 Edit: just found your wrist stability video 😅
Agreed this would be very helpful
Glad you found the video! We have a few videos on wrist stability and injuries actually :). They should be in a playlist too.
Surprised to hear about confirmaiton bias here!
Loved the expisode, keep it up!
Gotta acknowledge these things :P Thank you!
@12:30, I experience this sometimes, when my hands are close on a hangboard.
OMG IS THIS PREMIUM CONTENT LADYS AND GENTLEMAN. WoW
I started noticing my wrists clicking when holding sloppers a few months ago so was interesting to hear about that. It's particularly bad when my wrists are turned a few degrees in and I can wrap my fingers around the slopper, like you guys mention in the video. I've been doing exercises for my forearm extensors and flexors and it seems to be getting better. Any advice or recommendation for additional exercises would be very welcomed :)
We’ve got several videos about wrist strengthening and wrist injuries! Should come up with a quick CZcams search :)
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the reply and for all of the amazing info you guys put out there for free!
Thanks!
Thanks again (and again and again) for these! Always excellent. Cheers!
Haha, you’re most welcome!
Great dissection! How do I prevent the "earmuffing" effect in the future?
Hard to answer that in comments I’m afraid.
Generally increased awareness goes a long ways, and a bit of targeted strengthening does the rest.
Scapular clocks are a super easy rehab exercise that you can Google, but is perhaps the most straightforward way to get an initial feel of how your shoulders are moving.
From there, a ton of possible paths open up.
Stick dislocates are frequently really helpful for mobility and awareness.
Scapular dips or other scap oriented “strength” work can be a good bridge from awareness to training.
Finally, just trying to initiate moves from the scapula in general should iron things down nicely. (Watch people do pull ups. You can readily see if the movement begins by pulling down the scaps and then bending the elbow, or if the scapula floats while the movement is created only or firstly at the elbow.)
This scapular initiation is very useful for creating power / starting speed as well as general strength, and to a smaller degree, safety.
@@danielbeall7725 this is far more detailed than I was anticipating. Thanks a ton Dan, I'll look into everything further. This has been something I have noticed in my climbing a lot over the past couple years, especially whenever I get wide.
Good to work on, especially for wide positions.
Wide grip pull ups can help here, (aim for hands a bit wider than you’d typically use for wide grip pull ups, maybe ~1.75x shoulder width)
Think “proud chest” and roll your shoulders back.
Elbows tucked forward some, as if you’re doing a compression move.
Scaps scooping in should make it feel a little bit reminiscent of a “row”.
Shoulder form is much more important for wide moves. It’s unlikely to happen at any given time, but upward rotation of the shoulder when out wide allows more anterior sheering at the joint, which has been known to cause rather violent dislocations. Gets riskier as you get stronger, so good to fix in advance.
@@danielbeall7725 thanks again Dan!
Dan's the Man.
What is Dan's hair care regimen? 🤩
Secret Beta.
I sleep in a box filled only with Buttermilks dirt 👌🏻
Algogogogogoooooooooooooo
The real stylish and hypster climber use 3 fingers drag with inside flags 😌
Half crimps are too mainstream
One can get some nice jams in some of the pockets at Priest Draw. I was told that was cheating. LOL
Really 'flexing' your latin there ;)
Hah sometimes it's a struggle! I debate whether to use the correct naming so viewers can look up the exact name, or just use the layman term so it's easier to understand.
I absolutely luv these series of breakdowns and how to perform better.
I actually get a lot from it which i really appreciate.💯🙏
I find when i ask climbers for tips they won't give me any real tips it's almost like they don't want you to improve.
I'm starting to wonder about the climbing community where I'm from🤷
Please keep these going where you breakdown pro's to average joes like me there awesome🧗🤙
Glad you enjoy them!
Sorry to hear about your local climbing community… Maybe it’s just that they have a hard time articulating insights?
Also, even fairly experienced climbers will often climb and train mostly by “intuition”, so it’s possible that they don’t really consciously know what it is they’re doing.
Orrrr maybe they really don’t want to share 😅
@@danielbeall7725 i really appreciate your insights and i can definitely see a bit of each of what you said in these climbers.
Don't get me wrong I've had some really awesome people say some very nice things to me.
But i also feel maybe coz I'm 45 and picked it up very fast a little bit of not wanting to share lol.
Hey I'm autistic and i rarely climb a climb like anyone else anyways lol.
So maybe they feel they can't give me tips coz i climb very different or maybe they think I'm just doing ok without tips and getting to confused.
Thanks again it made me see things from a different light🧗🤙🙏💯
@@jonowoodgo hey I can relate to this as well and I would say 1) more experienced climbers are more likely to have good/helpful advice for you but it certainly isn’t a common trait in all or even most good climbers because there are lots of things that can result in your climbing Vhard and the ability to give analyze and breakdown movements in other people and give useful advice doesn’t have to be one of them.
2) Observe others below/at/above your grade level and watch what they do that works or doesn’t work and consider why that happens. Additionally, FILM YOURSELF climbing and analyze what exactly happens during moves you can’t do whether it’s a foot coming off before a hand or not hitting a hold properly and really focus on those individual movements until they become ingrained patterns.
@@slapthesloper hey mate i really appreciate your feedback, I'm starting to see that introvert extrovert in climbers too lol.
Which makes a lot sense of maybe not being able to give beta thru their confidence.
I do exactly what you do... i watch others better and worse than me i try and analize there mindset moves and how they move for the body type and strength.
I study woman climbing as i find that's the gateway to true technique for me.
Example Kim Jain and also just the amazing woman climbers at climbing gyms.
I also do try and film but I'm such a spontaneous person i get excited to climb and forget to film or i only film my last climbs when completely pumped out lol.
I just started as i thought what a rad community to be part of but it's a very clicky scene of crews and i spose old old friends that stick to each other.
I've turned into a Honnold by now soloing and just climbing alone.
Awesome advice though i really appreciate it heaps thanks mate💯🍻🙏🧗
2:21 someone tell my girlfriend this
😂😂
This guys is hard to listen to...he is vocal frying contantly...
I'm regard to the weak wrists that pop out or stretch a little during slopes, what is the best exercise to strengthen the wrist and prevent instability?