How to Hand File Sharpen Square Ground Chisel Chainsaw Chain
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- This is how to hand sharpen square ground chisel chainsaw chain. Square ground chain has advantages. A lot of people are discouraged to use it, because it can be more difficult to sharpen. This is the technique I have been using to hand file my square ground chain for many years.  I learned this from my dad, who learned it from the old time loggers and Forest Service guys he used to work with. 
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You're not just informative and a good teacher, but I love your dry sense of humor. Thank you!
I've been filing chainsaw chains for 50 years. I have never heard of a square filed tooth. Learn something every day
I don’t think it’s very common outside of the PNW.
@@WilsonForestLands It is becoming more common elsewhere but think it has its drawbacks in hardwoods.
@@iffykidmn8170like what.?
They're called chisel-bit chains and they will always out cut round file chains no matter the species. Full compliment chisel bit is the choice of timber fallers. Full skip chisel cuts great too and is a little handier if you're hand filing. Of you're a pro and cut 6 days a week you undoubtedly own an electric chain grinder and use full compliment chisel.
@@bombocropper5142
They're called square chisel chains
I saved a bunch of money on my car insurance by switching to reverse and getting the Hell outta there!"
Thanks for the information. I'll stick with the round. Too old to start learning new filing techniques.
I like the way you talk TO your audience instead of talking DOWN to them.
Keep up the good BAD ASSERY and be safe out there.
If I had been round filing for the past 30 years, not sure I would want to learn a new method either at this point. Thanks for the comment and the chuckle.
What's funny is your probably a guy who could get it very quickly, because you understand what a sharp chain looks like and you already have muscle memory although it's a different muscle memory.
Be safe sir.
I backstroke the file just to piss off cutting buddies! LOL Great info! Thank you!
That's funny 😂
i grew up in city, but moved to the country. a couple chainsaws and neighbors later, ive seen every sharpening jig in the book, ive had people offer me electric sharperners, hand crank rotary jigs that clamp onto the bar. contraptions that look like chop saws etc..... ive never used a single one of them. for the last decade ive been using just a round file. i can do a chain on an 18" bar in a few minutes....
i recently bought the Stihl 2-in-1 tool. i have to say, its pretty awesome, cut my time down a little, its nice to file rakers at the same time. it does a great job
We have always used round. My family has logged for generations. It's amazing to think about my Grandpa using an axe, crosscut and work horses. We still have his last crosscut on the wall at the office.
Genuine! ..... and informative..... been wanting to learn about square filing and you helped me a lot. Thank you.
As a jeweler we sometimes file 4 hours in the day.The file going just 10% dull is very dramatic for us. A dull file requires more power to make it cut an equal cut to a sharp file. More power comes at the cost of less control. The sharper the file the more perfect the cut is because we can just slightly feather the edge and still remove material. Coincidently i also own a tree business and i sharpen chainsaw chains almost every day. Your video is awesome and very well informed. My advice to anyone who wants the best sharpness/edge on their cutters is Get magnification. I used to use my jewelry optivisor for sharpening. I now just follow the angles and get a decent edge but without magnification it almost impossible to tell if it is perfect or not. The super thin edge that constitutes a "perfect sharpness" is incredibly small. optivisor in either 7x or 10x would work. The focal point of 7 is longer so it gives you more room to use the file. The 10 has very very short focal distance and is better for inspecting than to actually use in filing.
@@desyquintero8451 that's amazing thanks for letting us know was definitely thinking about using 1
My dad was one who could always sit down and free hand file a saw and have it back in good shape in just a few minutes. I on the other hand could sometimes get one to cut honestly better than a new chain but sometimes it wouldn't cut hot butter when i got done. It's always been a weird thing to me because i swear i don't change what i'm doing one time to the next. Dad has been gone for 14 yrs and for a lot of that time i have been using square ground chains. I just find them to stay sharp longer and cut better. I've always taken them to have them sharpened and have never actually sat down and tried to file one. It bugs me though to ever have to take them because i have worked as a pro logger selling loads and loads of both saw and pulp logs. Not only that but i'm a sawmill owner in my 40s and it's time i learn.
I after over 20 yrs recently started square grinding my chain...for fun, for the heck of it.
The angles will trip you out a little bit at first but I recommend practicing on a chain which is not too badly dulled
That way you don't need to change the profile too much and may need only 3 to 4 strokes and you don't run the risk of making all the teeth an uneven height.
2 things I noticed to corroborate what he says.
1. Yes it does cut a bit smoother.
2. While being somewhat aggresive in the tooth bite, I dont need to take my rakers down as much....I am using it at .018" at the moment when I used to use .025" to .030".
With this setting of the rakers at approx .018" - .020" you can bore cut easier without kickback is the added benefit
Do you think its worth learning? The files are quite expensive. I've been round filing for a few years now. Wondering if I should try the square
@@simd510 Hi, Yeah I found out the files are quite expensive (Pferd) when I went to buy one at a Stihl dealer and it was $38.00
I thought "What The?"
But I also don't like cheap crap so the file will likely last for years.
It may or may not be worth learning.
What I found was.... with a good quality chain being square filed = I hardly ever have to even touch up my chain. I've so far cut a bunch of wood for this last winter and only had to touch it up 3 times and it still was cutting really well even without a touchup.
Whereas with round filed chain I had to touch it up constantly. Say every half hour.
So for me it was worth the time saved in not having to constantly resharpen..
BTW - The round filed chain I had to constantly resharpen was a Stihl also so not a cheap chain.
The square file chain is an Oregon brand.
I don't know if Oregons metallurgy is better than Stihls but on every forum I've read the consensus is that Stihl is the best chain and most expensive.
You are quite the comedian. And pretty good at filing a chain.
Thanks for the video.
At least I’m good at something. Thanks for the comment.
Fireball Tools did a great video on the dragging the file, and totally proved that there is no difference. Number of cuts, pressure, stroke lengths were all the same. It’s really hard to argue with scientific evidence. Check it out. And you are absolutely correct in that when you lift, you loose the precise location that you need for a proper job. Thanks for your video!
Thank you for confirming. There are several videos about that people have suggested.
I am a machinist. Total BS.
My grandad was a logger in the 60s and 70s till death. He taught me to file pushing "in", as u r doin. Yet the logging community today push out to file, in our neck of the woods.
When folk see me sharpen, they want to tell me I am doin it wrong. I just agree and keep on filing the correct way.
Thanks for the video
I have seen a few people pushing out, it looks awkward to me to do it that way. When it comes to chainsaws it seems like a lot of people think their way is the only way.
Yes,square chisel chain full skip. It's the best, but it can dull quickly in dirty wood.
Double bevel file or a 3 corner file. Filing down and in is the correct way for square chisel.
I run .404 chain on my 100+cc saws like a 3120, my old 2100.
Upside down in a vice for the other side
Most of the time I’m filing where there is no vice. But that’s a good tip.
I switched to square ground about 5 years. One tip I did learn is as the file dulls it will start to leave beaks.
So if you’re using an older file and the beaks start happening outta nowhere try a new or newer file and it should remedy the problem. I can’t file my chains on the saw. Finding the right file is important, for me Pferd double bit and Vallorbe single bit files are my favorite.
I also back drag my file and there’s No negative effects that I’ve noticed. Planning on getting a 451 so I’ll only have to file my rakers.
Ive been square filing for a few years now, especially on my 30 - 42 inch bars. Bit harder to acquire double beveled files here in New Zealand, 12 pack imported from Switzerland at NZD$505 is the cheapest option. Gives a great cut compared to round
I wish i could fly from Australia and spent two days or so with you , ive had saws for 25 yrs but always find that i learn something new everyday
Thanks for the comment. It’s definitely good to learn something new every day. I have had fun with every Australian I’ve hung out with. It doesn’t take long before I start picking up their accent.
i appreciate your attention to detail and your camera work on all your videos. a little bit of patience explaining things the right way can help someone for a lifetime
Thanks Spencer, hopefully someone can get something good out of it
I never had any formal training on sharpening saws but I did stay at a a Holiday Inn Express last night
Hopefully they leave the light on for you there.
Thank you so much for this video! I’m so glad I found your channel.
Your correct,back dragging the file helps maintain the proper angle. There are also benefits drawing the file back this way. That is it can help clear filings from the flutes of the file. Files do not dull faster period. I don’t care what those old Germans say! I’ve lived it 38 year tool maker. Only applies to good quality files. Great video!
I never did much for cleaning the flutes, other than giving the file a tap once in a while. So I think you are right about it cleaning them out. Thank you for the comment.
Doing it how I was taught , works for me and I log Australian hardwood.
Nice tutorial. Square ground is where it’s at for sure. Another tip I would add is using a golf ball for a file handle. It fits the palm perfectly and gives a nice comfortable grip. You’re right about back dragging the file dulling the file faster, but it only fills it faster because it’s doing more work. It’s no worse for the file than than only pushing it.
A long time ago I saw someone use a golf ball. I was going to try that and then forgot about it. Thanks for the reminder.
For me, a golf ball is great for round filing but if square, I want something I can index such as his vice grip. Personally I have a rectangular block that when at the angle I want the sides are perpendicular and the back edge horizontal. Not all that necessary but it kinda keeps you from changing the angles to much over the life of the chain.
is that the same as a chisel file.?
@michaelwalker1152 it's a double bevel file
@@michaelwalker1152 No it's a bevel edge file. They are not so easy to obtain, and cost 10x more than a round file. The chain is called a chisel chain, and has a sharp edge between the side and top plate. There is also a semi-chisel chain which has rounded corners, ( avoid like the plague.)
Another great video. Thanks for sharing your wisdom & encouraging us by being honest (& humble) about the learning curve. I’ll keep learning. Besides, new chains are getting expensive. I know that time is money, but since I’m not a professional logger, my time is free to spend how I like. I’ll stick w/ spending time instead of $$.
Fireball tool did a "mythbuster" type video on backstroke of filling. Not much change in life of the file. I now backstroke with mine.
I heard somewhere that proper filing sounds like a donkey's bray. I think you got it down. I'm a flat file kinda guy, I can certainly appreciate the time, effort and precision of your work. When I learned to flat file I was told that you need three 45 degree angles. I'm not a geometry teacher, I think you're about on the money though.
Your dad knew what he was doing with each of those lessons he taught you, thank you for spreading the wisdom.
Thanks, I never heard of the donkey bray angle. Now that you mention it, I’ll probably never be able to un-hear the donkey every time I am filing. 😀
Round file all day, yes I’m that guy.
Very nice! The most simplest sq hand file video I have seen so far. Great job.
Most humorous I've seen you. That's good.
Square filing is the way to go,period ! it's fast and fun to use,it's take time and practice practice and patience also...respect from Croatia Eu
Good to hear you are square filing in Croatia. I agree, it’s the way to go.
Very Cool Didn't know there was a square cut Chain I also don't use chain saws much in arizona but very cool
The learning curve for me has been a 14 year curve… I still give em a go on occasion but damn, my round filed chain cuts just fine and my muscle memory is well exercised for filing them.
Thanks for sharing your experience!!
I can understand that. There can be a lot to be said for sticking with what you are experienced with that works well enough.
60 years ago I was taught how to use a file properly and always use a file handle. Or one day that tang will imbed itself into your hand. Yes it will happen, but some never learn.
Or just bend the tang to fit the palm of your hand
Thanks, Mr. Wilson.
You Sir, would be the first Am-badass-extrous logger on you tube I'd believe.
Keep up the good work 👍
Hooray I finally have a title!
your videos are great man!!!! just discovered your channel, ive seen alot of other loggin chainsaw fellas and their channels are great also but your channel has YOU , you explain stuff good, but its your personality and humor that makes me feel comfortable and makes learning enjoyable...thanx for the videos
The old man had McCullock chainsaws for years way back in the 60s & 70's. He used a flat file to sharpen his chains & man, they were always sharp. He was taught by his cousins who were career Army & that's the way the Army taught them how to sharpen a chainsaw & keep it sharp. Just a simple file & bit of elbow grease.
I watched a vid of a guy who did an experiment with backstroking the file a while back, turns out not only it doesn't dull the file, it takes off more material. Thank you for the vid. Now I think I may try a square ground chain!
I want to learn this great video and absolutely agree with you i have been cutting for 21yrs and never learned to square grind
Thanks for the comment. There is a little bit of a learning curve to it. It took me a while to develop the muscle memory to be able to easily do it. It just takes a lot of practice.
Nice! Finally a sharpener who knows which direction to push his file into a chain tooth. So many "PROS" run their file backwards one side to simply make it easy to stay right handed or left handed.
At 14 years old my brother taught me to sharpen my chains the same way id sharpen my knife or id roll steel around the tooth and seldom have a sharp edge. Why do we push the sharp edge of a knife into the stone and not lead with the back side of the knife ?
Thanks and maybe share this idea on your videos.
The first thing I noticed when I found your channel was how fast and smooth your saw cut. Very impressive.....had to subscribe.
Best saw .rite there .use mine go to saw
So far it’s been a good one, it’s my go to as well.
Just came across this gem! Thanks for taking the time to teach me something new
The files are more for chisel bit,and i use a round file,puts a little more hook in the tooth so you want to use shorter bar. The depth gauges can be set up to .060 for soft wood if you have the power,but use extreme caution if you bore with it, .030 for hardwood. The most dangerous saw is one that pulls dust not chips, maintenance on exh screen ie carbon up, especially if you run a bit rich on oil40 vs 50-1 , and most choppers in pnw started using power punch oil. Never loan out a pro saw, it's not theirs and they won't care about your saw.
Thank you so much for the video. Ive watched a few on square ground and yours is the easiest to understand. Just bought a pack of the files. Hope I can follow your steps and get a square ground edge.
Good demo! Now someone needs to make a jig. 😁
I have been waiting for them to make a jig for 30 years. Maybe I should have made the jig 30 years ago.
Bloody champ at bad assery chainsaw filling awesome mate keep up the bad assery
Awesome thanks for sharing, I enjoy your videos,thanks and you are spot on.
Yep! Cutting dirt. I do it all the time and am learning to kick that habit! 👍😃
Never realized that it would cut faster,
I assume you would refer to cross cutting for fire wood too,
I always thought that type was mainly used for ripping, which i never did.
Or is that type of sharpening you refer to is for only ripping.
But i'm thinking i may just try that after cutting firewood for over 60 years,
Would like to know before i change my cut.
Since i have to cut 6 to 7 cords every summer and bring it home,
I just hope you can still do that at 81 and still climb trees like me .
Not many can, but love the challenge.
WOW, an ambidextrous badass! I am impressed. 😆 Great instructional video.
Thanks scooter, even if I never accomplish anything else, at least I have that.
😊nice I am a retired cutter had a grinder did it just like you file just quicklyer good job.
Comment #2.
After seeing your bloopers I don't feel so stupid any more.
Welcome to my world.
It’s good to know I’m not the only one.
I like how low your rakers are which gives a more aggressive cut but the average joe in you tube land may want to know that if you make them too low it not only makes your saw bog down but will also increase the chance of kick back. The saws we use professionally have a lot more grunt than the average saw so we can file our raker teeth down a little lower than recommended. I've not had much chance to use the chains that you use until you pointed out the six sided files. Will give those a try. Thanks. Great video.
Hey man thx. Sometimes just watchin someone else for a second'll lend the confidence i need to beat out the 'analysis paralysis' if you will
I hope it helps.
Backstroking your file doesn't hurt it if you let the pressure off. Only cheap soft files can't handle back stroking.
I don’t know what those files cost but you can get a dozen Oregon round files for around $20. People worry more about taking care of their files than getting their chain sharp. Make a sharp saw your priority take care of yourself and the saw. Makes sawing more enjoyable
Square files are over $150 for a 12 pack
Back stroking a file makes it wear faster but it also cuts more. The file is cut perfectly equally on both sides. Meaning if you held the file backwards it would cut equally as well as handle up. At the very least easing up on the back stroke, you clear the ground surface and maybe take out a little more material.
Lmfao got good news Switched to geico and saved a bunch of money lol 😂
Easier said than done, I will keep “practicing”, thanks for no nonsense instructions! I have used square filed chain sharpened by a timber faller friend on a Silvey, BIG diifference! Thanks!
Yup, bar perpendicular to the body and switch hands; although, I just use a round file and touch up my chains every couple of days, rather than waiting for them to get really dull. 'Course, I don't take down really large trees, but I'm continuously thinning my stands, so I go through chains pretty quickly. (40v Li-ion battery-operated saw, 16" bar is bad-ass enough and handles all saw-work I require on my property.)
One tip, if I may; use a sharpie, or felt-tip pen, to mark the flats as you go -- you'll see when to stop and switch with the visual cue, without filing the same gullet twice. Cheers from your neighbor in Linn County.
The sharpie tip is a good tip. On the 32 inch chain, there are two teeth next to each other that are facing the same direction. That’s where I start and end. Usually I’m not doing a video so I don’t have a problem knowing where I left off.
Someone mentioned in the comments a while back, the idea of using an electric chainsaw. One of the compelling arguments he used for it was using solar panels to charge it. It’s an appealing idea I’ve been thinking about.
@@WilsonForestLands Yup, that was me. All battery equipment on my property. 7Kw PV system. Not inexpensive to set up, but cost effective now! Stop by and we'll host you for a tour about the bog. Stay warm! From you neighbor in Linn County.
Thanks for the act,,,, I mean sharpening lesson. I've considered it, but chicken out. I do believe I can overcome my fear of not getting it right. It's on my bucket list.
Cool square filing video! I like my file stuck into a golf ball, everybody has their own tricks..I file and then tap against the bar to get rid of the shavings..oh and I use a shoelace to clean each tooth of oil before filing, really speeds the process and lets the file dig nice and smooth without the oil. Just leave the shoelace draped over the chain and pick it up as you go.
I have seen people use golf balls but I’ve never tried it. I should try it sometime. Thank you for all the good tips.
Really good video thank you sir
nice demo on filing and glad to hear you saved on your insurance...thumbs up !!
I appreciate the comment.
They never told me of special file at stihl......40yrs, of dulling chains.....thanks bro. Im fixing to order 100ft rolls and tools to build my own, dont want to support people that have withheld important info.... who do you recommend buying chain from?
Great video, started with left hand, not bad at all. Your camera work wonderful. Easy with stroking on log ha🤣
Another advantage to using a double bevel file is that it will also file your takers. So you spend a little more on the file but it does double duty for you.
I actually use these 3 sided ones on the rakers to finish them off after they start getting dull. But you are right the ones I think you are talking about are better for that. They have that wide part in the middle that doesn’t get used when sharpening.
Funny thing about the back filing is bucking billy ray does and said the same thing
I rarely get through one of your videos without a chuckle or two... keep up the good work!
Thanks Ron, maybe one day we’ll get you up to three chuckles.
What size file do you use
@@52jplatty I have never encountered different sizes. They always have one size in the saw shops I have bought from. They are called 3 corner chisel bit files. If there are different sizes I am not aware of them.
Thanks for the demo, I just thought square ground was way less back stroke on the tooth. We used to file with more back taper when cutting HW than if cutting mostly SW.
I find it loads easier with the Blade in a Vice to keep the Saw still !!.
I have a Vice bolted to my Dropside so i can drop the side to horizontal level and have a Chain to hook in the Dropside locking dog to hold the Dropside door up like a Bench !! Makes Life so much easier including adjusting the Saw chain and topping up the Chain Oil etc and a General Purpose Bench with Vice !!
Awesome story!
Thanks Chad.
The full chisel chain is unbelievable when cutting nice clean wood, no dirt , over the working day you'll be amazed how much more wood is cut . 😊 . 25 to 30% better cutting than semi chisel 😊
Thanks for the confirmation. I have used it for many years in clean and dirty wood. Dirt definitely dulls it but I don’t know that it does as bad as a lot of people think it does.
@@WilsonForestLands Not if your cutting hardwood in Australia, particularly firewood. Carlton SC chain is beautiful IMO for the price, Stihl, Oregon etc
Agreed, a jig would be the way to go.
Yes especially when learning.
Thanks for this information. I am looking at learning how to hand file a square ground chain thia next year. Wish me luck and we shall see if i am just at good as the round file 😁👍
Exactly....been square filing since 16...now 60.
Awesome, you probably have even more experience with it than I do.
@@WilsonForestLands Oh I don't know about that....still get my chains pretty sharp tho... I like to used a Oberg 150 file...can double as a raker file too.....be safe out there and god bless.....Shoe
I saw Jed Walter’s use this method a while before he passed. They timed the different chains on the same wood and this method won hands down. It wasn’t even close. It is a shame these files are so expensive. Is there a company that sells these files cheaper than everybody else? I definitely want to get into this method.
I use a sharpie to mark the tooth I started on or if one's not handy, I find the two teeth that go the same direction, and are right next to each other. It's near the master link. Maybe not all chains have this, but my 18" and 20" Stihl chains have it.
I just started at the yellow link in the chain!
That is a good idea. This was a 32 inch chain, it also has the two facing the same direction. That’s where I always start. The 28” has an extra link in it, but a 24” comes out even. On a 24 I always filed a notch in one of the drivers, that’s where I always started. The sharpie is a good tip.
On the Stihl chain, that yellow link holds up sometimes the life of the chain. On Oregon and Husky chain, they didn’t have the yellow link, at least back when I used to buy them.
This is a great video, & shot in a manly location on a very bad ASS manly work bench!!
Not to mention the manly wood 💪🪓🌲🌲🌲🌲🌲🧡🧡🧡💪👍
Hummm, I was taught that the move with the file when sharpening should be from "the back" to the cutting edge of the tooth, and here is done the other way. I'm not criticizing, I'm just saying "live and learn".
Thats really interesting, i never knew of square grinds, so i really appreciate your video. Thanks !
Last tip your Chain should always cut better than a new one if it doesn’t it’s dull or destroyed as most people do!
Leave the rakers alone Unless your chain is destroyed.
You can tell if it’s destroyed if the part that rides against the bar Will be worn it should not be worn at all flatten your bar out when you put a new chain on with the file .
Great video very good looking tooth not seen on CZcams very often!
Depth gauages have to be adjusted/filed down as the as the cutting tooth has a small decrease in angle as you file it back. If the depth gauges are not taken down as chain wears and is sharpened, the amount of cut from the tooth is lessened with each subsequent sharpening.
Something never mentioned is there is 50ga and 60ga chain.60 is wider . My Dad was a filer for palco, yep big redwoods thru the old growth mill at Scotia, he would never drag a file backwards nor did he use a gauge. Filing a chain is easy compared to a handsaw,but forget new saws with blued teeth,their junk
Your an odd fellow but i like it. Good video. I square filed my first chain on my ported cs-590 and It cut awsome. It only gets better from here as i get more use to it. What brand and size is your file?
I prefer to file to the outside of the tooth, so if you leave a burr, it will wear off quickly. fileing to the inside may leave a rounded (dull) outer edge.
LOL a few times. Love your informative and entertaining channel. Thanks for what you do.
Thank you for the comment.
Great explanation and theory,Thanks for this excellent video.
Fireball tool did a video about filing/back-dragging, and you all NEED to watch it.
Regarding back dragging: A file is a tool, not a piece of fine art, and I will use it to enhance MY productivity, not the tools' longevity. If it wears out sooner, that's the cost of being productive. Besides, file steel makes good chisels, scrapers, burnishers, etc.
Buckin Billy Ray has entered the chat, "go for the gullet!"
He leaves his gullet in when he square files
@@joshlower1 yeah, that's kinda the joke isn't it. Take out the gullet every time......except for square grind and his baby c.
Fireball tool did the file video with the back dragging. I was fairly sure that he actually proved that back filing cleaned out the valleys of the file and kept it in better shape, producing longer life. I'll go back and look at that, I could be mistaken. The square filing method that you show, cuts into the chain links, which compromises the integrity of the chain. Have you had any chains break on you? It looks like the grind makes its way toward the pins that hold the link in place.
It only cuts a little into the link. I think that double link with the slight cut on one side is still stronger than the single link that goes between them. A long time ago when I was learning how to do it, I did angle it too far down and was cutting into the rivets. I did it that way back then for a long time until someone pointed it out to me. Even then I never broke a chain.
So I looked it up and yes the channel was Fireball Tool and the video was "I filed backward 2500 times and this happened. " back dragging helped the file and did not harm it.
I will have to look that up and see if that was the same one. I don’t remember the part where the back dragging helped it. But it was a long time ago, maybe I just don’t remember it correctly.
That is a very good basic square file your Saw will cut .
Most people just don’t dull their chain they destroy it and then expect to sharpen it will never cut again against the bar will be destroyed impossible to make it cut again !
Learning to keep your Saw Sharp and not run a doll chain so it destroys it or a dry chain ever!
Let’s keep this short you should be able to cut logs up that are rolled in mud and rock and not doll your saw. You can even hit the ground and not dull.
This is how you do it !
Bark is dirt!
Never suck bark into your cut!
Change speed?
Take you saw without it running and touch the ground does it dull it?
So if a log is covered in mud and rock you reach over the log with your chain stopped then you jog your chain 3 inches 4 inches at a time and it debark say then you cut from that clean part down never sucking dirt or park in your cut if you have to come back up and cut bark again stop your chain pull it up and charge your chain three or 4 inches at a time and then cut from there down you will not die your chain cut all your wood that way if you’re cutting brush no change speed jog your soul it will be sharp it will cut that stuff if you have to go through a log you have your change stopped and you jog it 3 inches at a time 3 inches at a time and when it goes through if you hit the ground your chain it’s not going to get wiped out your change just gonna push dirt you’re going to have one to 3 feet in the dirt that’s not gonna dull!
You will be able to cut 300 cords of firewood with one chain cutting skidded wood that mean Dirty wood .
This man had a Lotta good ideas he didn’t emphasize the side of your tooth is the most important sharpen each tooth individually they don’t have to be the same once you learn how to run it so you might only dull one tooth .
You’re basically holding your your teeth not taking material away that surface is work hardened and if you can keep that work hard and still there and basically polish the tooth you will have the most awesome change there are it will bake running a saw so awesome and easy!
Yes a full chisel is awesome but it’s not for everybody!
I must say good video most people on CZcams don’t know their ass from a hole in the ground when it comes to sharpening the saw you do a good job!
👍
"Vise Grips just give a nice solid...solid...Grip..." Like a vise? 🙂
Thanks for the demo. I am sure that method works but I use a round file myself. To each his own I say. Keep on doing your thing.
Round file is good too. I appreciate your comments.
Good job!
Subscribed 😂
Yes I noticed how well your saws cut, BAD ASS video buddy, glad you found the time to get this out to us!
Do you usually run a full skip?
What about the rakers?
Just a flat file?
What kind of a block did you have under the bar?
Thanks buddy for this video 🧡🧡
I always run a full skip. The type of chain in that video is the type I have always used. Except for on my pole pruner.
I use a flat file for the rakers.
The block under the bar is just a piece of 2 x 4. The big felling dogs make the saw sit in a way where the bar sticks up in the air, the block just supports it.
If you have to take the rakers down you’ve already destroyed the chain .
@@patdenney7046? If you’re not adjusting the rakers you have no idea!
Great video. I like your style.
You can flip the saw upside down and the awkward side will be the same stroke as you like.
lately I only sharpen the dull teeth, seems to work pretty well, and don't forget to file the depth gages, not sure that is what they are called, but if they are too high, the teeth won't cut as well
It's called a tri square file. And a chisel bit chain. I spent years sharpening this kind of tooth with the tri square file. Bucker at a log yard.
Golf balls make for good file handles..