Diagnosing Charging System Problems | 2015 RZR 900S | Partzilla.com
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- čas přidán 4. 01. 2018
- See the parts featured in our RZR no charge troubleshooting video: bit.ly/rzr-no-charge
Watch as we walk you though testing the charging system on the Polaris RZR 900S in this video from Partzilla.com. For this video, our parts list features a couple of the different things you may need to replace over the course of the diagnostic. We’ll start off by testing the battery, and if it’s good we’ll check out the stator and the regulator rectifier. When we identify the electrical problem on the RZR, John will show you how to replace the regulator rectifier and get your machine charging properly again.
Read how to do this job step-by-step: www.partzilla.com/blog/polari...
VIDEO HIGHLIGHTS:
Testing the battery - 2:42
Testing the stator - 2:42
Testing the regulator rectifier - 6:15
Removing and replacing the regulator rectifier - 8:18
Find OEM Polaris RZR 900S parts and exploded diagrams here at Partzilla.com:
www.partzilla.com/catalog/pol...
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In the video we’re working with a 2015 Polaris RZR 900S. You may have similar steps on your machine. If you’re not sure whether these steps apply to your vehicle, leave a comment and we’ll get back to you.
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This was exactly what I needed to diagnose and resolve my RZR charging issue. I'm now free from my car battery charger tether! Thank you!
Great video this guy knows what he’s talking about
Great video! Easy to understand. Thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your time and teaching I really appreciate it that good inf
He's smooth. Great instructor
Awesome Vid!!! Please do some more on the same subject but with different types of machines Please!
Thanks man! Super Easy to understand
Very informative and helpful video thank you!!!!
First class. A very tricky subject well explained. Many thanks.
Great video , thanks for sharing
AMAZING Video!! Thank you for doing that! I will 100% be buying parts from you guys!!
Partzilla is the best, they are amazing
Great video very well explained
Very good. Great explanation.
I've been looking for some guidance on troubleshooting my ranger and I subscribed!
Thank You for taking the time to make this.
Thanks for the sub!
This video saved the day for me
Great job got any videos on odes 800
Thanks for the knowledge!
What a great and extremely informative video you made here! Thank you very much for sharing this, ive learned a lot about stuff I didnt know I could do which the meter i allready have! Thanks again…Great Video!
Glad it was helpful!
This is a great video
Thank you ! You may have shown me how to fix it ! . Teaching how to fish instead of just giving a fish !
I have the meter but didn't know how to use it !
Very thorough very good
Well presented, thanks
Excellent video
Great explanation
Hey John was a great video,I have an 2008 razor 800 with similar readings..looks like my wiring is a bit different,I was doing the first test to check stator,and am not getting anything on my meter? I checked connections,appear to be good, can I send u pictures somehow?
Fixed it ! You're the best!
Thanks for video. Can I use the same method to check Sportsman 850 (2011) voltage regulator? Should the readings be the same? Thanks.
Top vid thank you 😀
have you got a test in the pickup coil? Like to see a run a/c test!
Excellent work, thank you, easily diagnosed my 2015 ranger 900 stator 19-20 v on all three circuits and no ground out. Was discharging erratically, especially at idle. But now after checking it out it shows on the speed gauge and separate volt meter over charge,,, up to 17v, this causes the PS to quit as did the low voltage too.
Mine's charging at around 17 VDC as well. Did replacing the rectifier solve your problem?
Very helpful
Have a delayed starting problem on a 2011 Polaris 800 ranger. It happens when I turn the key on let the fuel pump charge then when I step on break petal and turn the key we have engagement but then a hesitation before it actually starts. I’ve changed the safety switch, starter, and switch starter.
What am I missing or have done wrong?
Thank you for you videos,
Brian
Hi, Cool you made this video, thank you.
BTW, this RR is Shunt or series? also, is it SCR or MOSFET?
Thank you...
damn this guy is gangster with these rzr's!
I have a 2013 Polaris RZR 570, would this be a similar process ? thank you! new battery, we use to feed horses, runs about 5 days (we don't drive it fast) when turn off; battery needs charged. May have a charging problem. only 237 hours on it! purchased from older gentleman he never used it; shined it alot. I just installed a new battery. It has been sitting for at least 9 months. Otherwise runs great.
All 3 of my diode tests come back OL. Is that possible?
Today when I started it up, meter shows a discharge AND motor light is on the speedo guage.. ordered a regulator will post any change after install. Regulator is behind the grill and bumper/winch on passenger side, I see on your video it is wide open on the machine you work on. ? is that the original place or like I"m thinking>> I will just mount the new one someplace more easy to get to.. it being that close to a hot radiator was not a good plan I'm thinking, thanks
do those tires have a sergeant major rank insignia on them?
Iam having some issues with my rzr. It’s a 2013 900 and while riding this past weekend power steering kept going out and check engine light kept coming on. I bring it home and test battery and it’s at 12.6v but at idle it’s at 15.9v. I used this video to test stator and I’m getting .5ohms which is way above spec and for ac volts I’m getting 3 volts at idle. How can this be if battery is over charging?
My sator has 6 v at idle and comes up when revved but its new should i try to change it again ? Mine is a 800 ranger
Is the stator bad if it read 17 18
Hello John, can you explain this,, so if you read my comments I have a 2015 Polaris 900 xp, it runs great now again but upon doing your test of the stator initially it checked out good, about 20v, but still off and on would not charge according to the volt meter installed. Then it started to over charge, up to 17v and the eng. light came on continually. So rechecking the stator again it then showed about 1v ac on all three. So I ordered a new stator too. Meanwhile I got a new regulator installled. Was about to remove the muffler etc. when I thought to recheck the stator, for laughs, and volt meter after the regulator install. To my shock the volt meter now shows 14.7 and it runs great..???? Canceled the code 168 and eng. light and it has been running fine.. Also the regulator went out I think because the batt. posts were both loose. When it stalled and had to jump start it both connections were loose enough to turn by fingers......
Is this test the same for a 14 Ace 325 ?
Hello, if the regulator says 4.70 in the 3 phases, is it good or not? Hayabusa 1300 05,,,thanks
This is a kind of old video but I figured I'd ask a question three-phase stator on my Polaris RZR1000 turbo EPS with no extra accessories all the test test good. No resistance to ground The dynamic test 20 volts AC at an idle. I accelerate it to 3000 RPMs roughly and it goes up to 60 volts AC so the stater is obviously good I think lol but I keep having to replace VRRs I'm on number four bought one Polaris one from you guys that lasted about a hundred miles. Just bought a cheap one off Amazon that lasted a day bought Rick's Hot shot that lasted a week so that's three right there. The previous owner put the hotshot on it so they went through one VRR I've replaced the battery which is brand new. All wire leads are really good. Even added extra grounds The wires from the stator keep getting hot and melting along with the VRR getting hot hot to the touch. I'm really stumped here. Any info I'd appreciate it. My next one I put on it is going to be a dual output. Stator in multiple VRs. I just don't really want to spend the money right yet but if you add up the parts I could already done it 😆 idk it just don't make any sense to me
We made an error on our RZR 900 and reversed polarity on the battery, We heard a fireworks kind of sound and that was it. We put the battery correctly and the RZR starts and runs but is not charging. Do you think we damaged anything else aside from the stator or rectifier? I replced the rectifier and its still not charging. I looked at this video so my next step is to follow your procedure on stator testing.
If the output voltage of a Sportsman 700 is 17 Vac from the stator, can it be damaged?
If I put a battery shut off switch on the positive battery cable on my rzr xp 1000 will it kill the engine if I switch it off while its running?
what do you do it it work sometimes? one day it charges fine then next time you start it it wont charge
I have a 2015 rzr s it cranks but does not start. I have fire I'm getting fuel. The engine code is low voltage. Battery is charged do u have any ideas of what to check. I checked voltage on the regulator on the starter side and all 3 legs were 10.3volts
I checked my volts with system laid out and im getting 16 to 17 volts at idle. 2015 polaris ranger 900 crew is that good enough
I replaced the stator on a 2012 Polaris Ranger 500 EFI 4x4. Did the AC test on the stator while running like your video shows. It shows on 9.8 volts on all phases. Do different machines stator put out less AC volts while running?
You should have more voltage, even at idle. Are you having charging issues?
@@PartzillaPartsyes. I change the stator. When I start giving the engine throttle the volts go up a lot to 70. Maybe the idle is to low?
Hello in my atv (access lander 300) in dynamic test on stator show 3.5 acv , 3.5acv and 6.5 acv. The other test is good but not charging the battery. The problem is the stator?
I have a 2013 Ranger 900 XP it will run for about 5 minutes then shut off if you let it set for 20 minutes it will start back up, the first dealer told me to replace the coil, and that did not help , so I called another dealer and he said stator and that did not help either, when it quits there is no spark to the spark plugs, do you have any suggestions on what could be the problem!
Would this be the same steps for a 2012 rzr 900 xp
Yes, same concept.
I just bought a Polaris rzr 800, the light bar stopped working, radio, horn, etc. The light's to the rzr are still working, and still driving. It does cut off at idle. What could I check? Plz help!
Awesome video, I was able to follow the steps as you did but I was checking them on my 12 rzr 800, really the only difference is the location of the rectifier. From using this testing method of having the pos/neg plug plugged into the rectifier I was able to determine that my original rectifier was faulty, the diode test was all over the place with phases one and two and OL on the third. Great I thought as I had bought a new rectifier thinking and hoping that was the issue... Installed the new rectifier and repeated the test and got around .5 an all three phases. Plugged in the stator plug and started the machine and checked the volts on the battery, they stayed the same as the volts of the battery with the machine off, around 12.5V... I checked my stator volts AC at idle and had around 20V across the phases on all three... Is there more trouble shooting I can do? From my tests it seems that I have a good stator and now a good rectifier... Is there maybe a fuse or a relay that would be bad? If so where might I find them? As of now thou I'm glad to not have the task of taking out my motor to get to the stator to change that as on the 12's and up to the 14 model change the engine is turned 90deg and makes taking the stator out a chore that requires the motor to be pulled out... Any help would be appreciated.
did you end up finding out the exact problem to this?? (i know its an old post). My machine (2011 rzr 800) is doing exactly what you just described. Bought a new regulator and did all the tests in the video. Everything checked out with the new part, but still no charge to the battery.
@@AnthonSa hola tengo ese mismo problema justo ahora sabes cómo se solucionó?
@@ramiroespinoza3939 Encontré un cable eléctrico roto del rectificador que conducía a la batería cuando tenía problemas sin carga de la batería.
@@ramiroespinoza3939 Encontré un cable eléctrico roto del rectificador que conducía a la batería cuando tenía problemas sin carga de la batería.
I have a 450 Polaris sports man that is over charging , dealer diagnosed a bad ECM , they replaced it , I took delivery and it’s still overcharging , any ideas?
It still has the erratic discharge too
Could this cause sudden or random power loss like engine cutting out or almost cutting out.
Did you figure it out?
If you check the stator and it is ok, couldn't you also check the output plug of the regulator/rectifier to see if it is appropriate voltage if you don't have a diode checker?
Hey. Great video but when I did a diode test I get 706 on all 3 circuits. Not sure what that means.
Correction it reads -706
Sounds like you have it on the wrong setting.
@@PartzillaParts I will double check that. My meter combines diode test with continuity. Can the regulator rectifier be tested with out the battery connection connected?
Got a problem with a 2013 Polaris RZR charging system. Installed a new stator and voltage regulator. Still not charging the battery. If I unplug the charge side on the voltage regulator and run wires direct to the battery still no charge but if I run the wires to a separate battery it charges fine. 14.5 volts. This is strange. Any ideas what is wrong? Thanks, AJ.
Hi AJ, I have the exact same problem you do. The battery in the Polaris does not charge but if I put it to an external battery it charges just fine. I was wondering what you did to fix it appreciate any help you can give me.
@@johnigd The problem was in the wiring harness. Needed a new harness.
Thank you
Voltage regulator only putting out 11.54volts at idle, stator putting out 19.8 volts AC at idle, Diode test comes back .451 on all 3 terminals. Do I need a new voltage regulator?
Have the same exact problem
I also have this same problem .467V on all three terminals
Can you show us where the fusible link is? I popped it
Tengo el mismo problema ahora mismo
Hi .im trying to figure out why my new battery fully charged keeps losing voltage and dying on me. For example, i had it fully charged, rode it 5 miles one night and rode it 5 miles to work next morning. Went out on my lunch break and it wouldn't start. I've checked my R/R and diodes are fine. Ive done the high rpm rev and didnt go above 14 volts. Does that mean that my Stator and R/R are functional? Im no mechanic but willing to learn. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I use a 1amp trickle charger. Have a Autocraft AGM Powersport YTX12-BS Battery with 180 CCA that i paid $90 for. Also, does it matter that i didnt spend $300 for OEM Battery and went with aftermarket battery? A battery is a battery. Right?
Well, looks like im not getting an answer
@@theone2be33 having similar issue with mine. Did you ever figure out the issue causing yours?
@@TheEleazerJ burned out stator. Replaced it
My 2016 won’t crank what would be the problem ?
It could be literally anything. Start with power, it's the most common. Battery, fuses, cables, solenoid....down the line.
My battery is reading 14v at cold idle is that normal?
You should be fine.
I did every test and everything checked out. Good regulator and stator. But not even 20 minutes of riding and I’m stalling out with a dead battery… very frustrating
Tengo ese mismo problema ¿pusiste solucionarlo?
no equipment test for charging issues. start vehicle. remove battery connections. does the vehicle die? ...charging issues.
On my daytona 675, I get a good reading on the dynamic test on idle but it doesn't increase with rpms, does this mean my stator is faulty? Thanks
3:13. You are confusing resistance with continuity, if there is continuity to ground the coils are shorted, a good coil will have a lot of resistance, in fact infinite resistance. With the meter on the ohm setting and displaying OL or I (I for infinity) it means there is infinite resistance between the meter's leads, as soon as the reading changes it means there is LESS resistance than infinite and that points to a short.
Hey John, my battery was not fully charged, but was measuring 12.7 volts.....my stator at idle was in between 19-20 volts. I didn't get a chance to raise the rpms to 4-5K rpms to see if my volts increased to between 70-75 volts. My diodes were all measuring at .471 volts. Could my diodes be measuring under 0.5 volts cuz my battery wasn't fully charged, or does this mean my voltage regulator is bad? Thanks
That should be within range. Around .5. If it reads nothing, then there is an issue.
I’m having same issue with my Rzr. With Rzr off battery read 12.4 volts. When Rzr running volts only go up to around 12.7volts instead of 13.5 or more. Did all test and stator is good and so is rectifier. I’m lost and out of idea. Any help would be greatly appreciated John
The biggest problem is when you have electrical issues and CANNOT start it. Many of the tests cant be carried out if you cant properly idle.
Hey John I have a question I ordered a new OEM clutch basket after finishing installing the clutch boss why is one fiber plate left out can't figure out why is that
What unit are you putting this on?
@@PartzillaParts 2014 yfz450r
I figured what's the problem was the clutch it was missing one steel plate.. thanks alot john