Thank you Kevin! As usual, your meticulous attention to science and chemistry wins the day. When is your next heat treating video coming out? I'm hoping it's for 5160!
Thanks Jeff, bladesmithing got by for a very long time with empirical observation of the end result, but direct examination and analysis of what is occurring inside the steel is an incredibly powerful tool. If I can help advance the craft with my research, I am happy to do it.
Very interesting! I love the precision. I really hope you'll do more of these, perhaps one to walk a blister steel newbie through the process? I would also like to thank you for your excellent website. You're my go-to for hear treatment info, and helped me understand how to forge a quillon dagger. By the way, your mixes, were they 60/40 by weight or volume?
Very interesting! I'm pretty fascinated when it comes to incorporating wrought iron into knives or using shear steel for the actual blade/edge, so this was especially fun to watch. I hope to see what you end up making with this shear steel, I'm sure it will turn out beautifully whatever it may be. Thanks for generously sharing all of your hard earned knowledge with us, I've been meaning to pick up you're 1084 heat treating video, although I've been "guilty" of using 1095 more so with my fairly simple forge as I enjoy clay hardening for hamons. Sorry to bug you a bit with a question here, but could you happen to recommend a good and simple design for a Venturi burner forge specifically designed for heat treating? I think Don Fogg has a design for one meant for swords, but all of my knives are fairly small and I don't have too much room for such a large size, I think something the size of a 5 gallon steel bucket is as big as I could realistically get, so I'mmnot sure if his design would lend itself to a forge with a smaller interior. I'd LOVE try to build a PID controlled blown forge and especially a salt (or even "sand") pot, but I know next to nothing about wiring, so I'm just trying to find as good of a design for even heating in a forge as I can with a Venturi burner. Btw, back to your video topic, I have seen one CZcamsr carburize some smaller iron (pure-ish iron) ingots using ground up Tums with some pretty good results, I wonder how that would work with your setup compared to these two samples. Anyway, thanks again!
Sorry I am not very well versed in venture designs that are available, I have a couple of the T-Rex burners that I got in return for some heat treatment consulting for a client. 1095 is a great steel, for some blades I would take it over 1084, but 1080 will maker every bit as nice a hamon as 1095, possible even better.
Kevin R. Cashen - oh that's a great idea, I'll have to pick up some 1080... do you happen to know of a source for decent/consistent bar stock? I do also use Aldo's low Manganese 1075 for hamons as well, which works awesome, but I also have some of the round W2 from Don Hanson that I'll be using quite a bit of (for me at least) once I can find somebody to help reduce it to a forge-able size for hand forging, so I'll be wanting to make sure my heating is more even and consistent, which I should have regardless of steel type. Thanks
Yes, but it would be taking somewhat of a step backwards since the shear steel process homogenizes the carbon levels throughout. Also, the carburization tends to accumulate in the outer skin before it can penetrate to the core, so recarburizing risks creating an unworkable carbide rich, almost cast iron, zone.
Sir, you are a gift to humanity. Respect.
please make more videos if you can. They are great!
Thank you, I will really try, but my various other obligations in the realm of bladesmithing often keeps me from video work.
You're the man Kevin! I can't wait to see the pieces finished, it's going to be a great presentation for sure!
Sir this video is gold thank you very much for sharing
Thank you Mr. Cashen for sharing. Much appreciated.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you Kevin! As usual, your meticulous attention to science and chemistry wins the day. When is your next heat treating video coming out? I'm hoping it's for 5160!
Thanks Jeff, bladesmithing got by for a very long time with empirical observation of the end result, but direct examination and analysis of what is occurring inside the steel is an incredibly powerful tool. If I can help advance the craft with my research, I am happy to do it.
Thanks Kevin!!
Calcium carbonate was probably popuplar as it was more readily available in the form of sea shells but also from lime rock.
I want a Hubbardston FD hat. 😉
Great experiment, but I can’t wait to see the real project!
HFD hat already sent!
I used old Nicholson files to practice when I first started.
Very interesting! I love the precision. I really hope you'll do more of these, perhaps one to walk a blister steel newbie through the process? I would also like to thank you for your excellent website. You're my go-to for hear treatment info, and helped me understand how to forge a quillon dagger. By the way, your mixes, were they 60/40 by weight or volume?
By weight, weight to volume things get really lopsided when working with real charcoal because of the low weight to high volume of it.
Great video
Very interesting! I'm pretty fascinated when it comes to incorporating wrought iron into knives or using shear steel for the actual blade/edge, so this was especially fun to watch. I hope to see what you end up making with this shear steel, I'm sure it will turn out beautifully whatever it may be. Thanks for generously sharing all of your hard earned knowledge with us, I've been meaning to pick up you're 1084 heat treating video, although I've been "guilty" of using 1095 more so with my fairly simple forge as I enjoy clay hardening for hamons.
Sorry to bug you a bit with a question here, but could you happen to recommend a good and simple design for a Venturi burner forge specifically designed for heat treating? I think Don Fogg has a design for one meant for swords, but all of my knives are fairly small and I don't have too much room for such a large size, I think something the size of a 5 gallon steel bucket is as big as I could realistically get, so I'mmnot sure if his design would lend itself to a forge with a smaller interior. I'd LOVE try to build a PID controlled blown forge and especially a salt (or even "sand") pot, but I know next to nothing about wiring, so I'm just trying to find as good of a design for even heating in a forge as I can with a Venturi burner.
Btw, back to your video topic, I have seen one CZcamsr carburize some smaller iron (pure-ish iron) ingots using ground up Tums with some pretty good results, I wonder how that would work with your setup compared to these two samples. Anyway, thanks again!
Sorry I am not very well versed in venture designs that are available, I have a couple of the T-Rex burners that I got in return for some heat treatment consulting for a client. 1095 is a great steel, for some blades I would take it over 1084, but 1080 will maker every bit as nice a hamon as 1095, possible even better.
Kevin R. Cashen - oh that's a great idea, I'll have to pick up some 1080... do you happen to know of a source for decent/consistent bar stock? I do also use Aldo's low Manganese 1075 for hamons as well, which works awesome, but I also have some of the round W2 from Don Hanson that I'll be using quite a bit of (for me at least) once I can find somebody to help reduce it to a forge-able size for hand forging, so I'll be wanting to make sure my heating is more even and consistent, which I should have regardless of steel type. Thanks
Please don't stop making videos, this was great! Now, would blister steel look the same as wrought iron after etching it?
Yes, it has all the same characteristics as the wrought except it is hardenable, the carbon may even give it more character in the etch.
@@kevinr.cashen8544 very good to know, thank you very much for the info you bring forth
How long did you keep the packs in the heat?
4.5hrs
What's the reason to not use briquettes? Is it the risk of impurities like sulfur diffusing in?
There are so many additives to briquets that a sad percentage of them is even charcoal.
So question, if after making shear steel is it possible to do the carbonization process again to increase the amount of carbon further?
Yes, but it would be taking somewhat of a step backwards since the shear steel process homogenizes the carbon levels throughout. Also, the carburization tends to accumulate in the outer skin before it can penetrate to the core, so recarburizing risks creating an unworkable carbide rich, almost cast iron, zone.
@@kevinr.cashen8544 awesome that makes total sense, thank you for the reply I appreciate it
Mr. Kevin,
Which part of the world do you belong to ?
Hail! Nepal !!!
Michigan, USA
@@kevinr.cashen8544
Great !
Is baking soda an option?
Sodium bicarbonate is obviously not the same chemistry and I have not seen any documentation supporting its use.