Triple-T #48 - Knife Steel 101
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2021
- To continue our beginner series, today's Triple-T (tools, tips and talk) #48 is all about Knife Steel 101. (links below!)
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Any steels you have questions about? Other suggestions for videos in this beginner series?
I think a great video would be the details that separate a beginner/amateur blade from a pro blade….and how to perfect them. Examples: tight mating with no visible gaps between scales and tang, spine perfectly smooth with the scratch lines going parallel to it with no bumps, clean uniform plunge lines (or skipping plunge lines as a beginner), squareness and flatness. This to me is where I’m at. I can make a knife…..making a QUALITY knife is a whole different universe. But one thing I’m learning is to pick a few key quality indicators and focus on them. I also suck at plunge lines. So, while I work on that, in the interim I am choosing designs that I know I can execute if I want the knife to look snazzy. I think all makers start off wanting to make knives like your cu mai Bowie….but knowing your limits and making a really simple knife that is well executed is such a better way to go at first.
@@andrewneilson227 this is great stuff! I’ll add this to the list. I’m going to do a video next week on freehand grinding basics and how to’s. I’ll cover some of those items above in that video and others in upcoming videos. Thanks! 👍
exotic steels and toold steels like O1 for H33
Wroght iron, S7
@@stressmasterbk4294 I did discuss O1. H33 isn’t really used for knives though.
This guy here....
That's a LOT of knowledge all in one video. Thank you for doing that!
I’m happy it was informative! Thanks for checking it out!
One of the best videos on the internet about knives
Thanks so much! I’m glad you got something out of it!
You are very generous to take the time to help people interested in making a knife. Your information is very valuable. Thanks!
I’m glad it’s informative! 👍 Thanks for watching!
Thanks, as always, for sharing your knowledge, and especially your processes for HT.
I’m glad it was helpful, Bryson! Thanks for following along!
This is a seriously great video. Excellent content. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for checking it out, Andrew!
I always wondered what these stood for. I studied a lot of chemistry at school and the few years of university I attended so I had a reasonably good idea about chemical makeup etc but it was great to see it all put out in front of me like that, thank you!
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
It’s always good to learn such knowledge, though I’ll never forge a blade from scratch. Just knowing what’s the best materials a really good blade is made out of when purchasing such weapons.
I’m glad it was interesting to you. Thanks for watching, Roy!
Great beginner knowledge here. Thanks much!
Thanks for watching! I’m glad it was helpful
This is a fantastic video that puts a lot of important information (that's not so easily found) in one easy to understand format. Well done!
I'm pleased you found it helpful, Levon!
Thank you for sharing of your experiment result! 😁👍
Thanks for checking it out!
As usual love the video! Thanks for sharing what you know with the rest of us. I think your videos are a bit reminiscent of Walter Sorrells videos but if I had too pick between you two I prefer yours. You get to the information quickly and concisely and they are always well put together. I always look forward to the videos you come out with each week. Thanks again!!! 💪🔨 🔥💧 🔪
Thanks so much, Cory! Walter does great videos and to even be compared to him is an honor.
Great info, nicely presented, thanks a ton!
Thanks for checking it out!
Now we're talking!
I can really use this information in my business. Thanks.
Thanks, I’m happy it was helpful, Michael!
Awesome. I have been looking for a good over view forever. Thank you
I’m glad it helped you out! 👍
Fantastic tips! You definitely make a great teacher for beginners. Now I want to start scuba diving, any tips for me? 😉
Don’t hold your breath while scuba diving. That’s the golden rule. 👍 😉
Lol
You never cease to amaze me, your Knowledge and Skills blows me away and you always explain everything in a very easy-to-understand straightforward way, so you make a fantastic teacher... anyways I just want to say thank you.
Thanks so much, Karen! I really do appreciate the feedback. If there's a topic you want to see a video on, let me know. 👍🏻
Great tips. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for taking a look!
Awesome information thanks for sharing mate.
Thanks for watching, Randy!
Thank you Denis for sharing your insights collected over the years. You heat treating recipes give a good hint also for the steels we have over here in Europe. Some steels are identical, some slightly differ, but the nomenclature is totally different.
As always: Thank you so much!
As always, thanks for watching, Gerald! 👍
Another awesome video man. I definitely saved this to my playlist of need to know knife making info.
Thanks Nate! The last two Triple-T videos were the start of my beginner series. This week's will be on grinding basics, check that one out!
@@TyrellKnifeworks i sure will....given the chance. Work has been crazy. I was supposed to work this weekend but I took a break.....fingers crossed I still have the job I've been at 15 years
Great video. Thank you for sharing your recipes.
I’m glad they were helpful, Dominic Thanks for watching!
very good information thank you Dennis
I’m glad it was helpful, David!
Great info & presentation!! I'll be reviewing this many times. Thank you - David
Thanks for checking it out, David!
Very interesting,great information, thanks.
Thanks for watching!
I would love to see a similar program on some of the more exotic steels many used in stock removal, such as BG42, ZDP189, and also Hitachi white and blue steel used in forging.
I’m doing a whole beginner series first and then maybe I’ll do more intermediate and advanced subjects after. I could be a while though.
Paused at 1:34. My favorite carbon steel is 1095. It's affordable, easier to sharpen than D2, 5160, 02, 01, etc. It holds a edge for quite a while, I normally strop my knife instead of sharpening it constantly. It's easily maintained if you put a forced patina on it. I normally use olive oil for the steel, wood handle & leather (steel/wood is oiled every 3-6 months). leather is oiled whenever it starts to look like it needs it, (the handle & leather sheath was finished last year & only been oiled once then coated in beeswax).
While I agree, 1095 can have a great edge, it’s not the best for retention, so for bushcraft knives or choppers it’s not ideal. If you wanted a tougher steel for wear resistance, 80CRV2 is a good choice. 1095 does have the added benefit of creating nice hamons as well. Also, I actually do not recommend food based oils like olive oil for steel, they break down over time and get gummy. Mineral oil is a better choice for steel. Neetsfoot oil is great for wood/leather to keep it soft. Thanks for watching!
I bought .136 inch 1095 from Alpha Knife Supply, they claimed that the steel is annealed and only needs heating to 1475 and quench in Parks 50 and temper soon after . I slowly brought the blade up 1475 over about 8 minutes , quickly quenched in Parks 50 then followed their specs for 62 Rockwell which was 350 for 2 hours twice .I have a friend who is retired but still has his machine shop and a rather elaborate hardness testing machine. I didn’t tell him what I hoped was the hardness , he put it on the machine and the needle went up then back and he said it was between 62 and 63 Rockwell hardness.
Nice! Seems like you hit it perfectly. Despite what they say, it’s best to normalize the steel and go through sone grain refinement cycles before heat treating. That way you KNOW it’s the same each time.
Thanks for the informative video! I will do temper longer👍
I’m happy it was useful, Dmitry!
Awesome video, new sub right here ! 👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺
Welcome to the channel, Shane! New build videos every Sunday and tools/tips videos every Thursday!
Comment for the CZcams algorithm day 5. Best knife maker out there, keep it up! Hope i one day will be able to get one of your knives!:)
I just created a website the other day, its now linked in all my videos. Check the shop on the website after the blade show next month, that's where available knives will show up.
Great vid
Thanks for checking it out, Barry!
Awsome vid thanks
I’m happy it was helpful! 👍
Oh My..... I can feel the keyboard cowboys getting ready to droll you on this one 😂
Non yet, but I'm sure they'll pop their heads out. 😜. Thanks for watching, Dan!
Material in this video was spot on. Thank you for saying 1095 is not a beginner steel. So many others claim that it is.
Only reclaimed steel/ metal I’ll use is mild steel, wrought iron, and 304ss. All of course for San mai blades.
Reclaimed can be ok for personal use, like tools and such, but I wouldn’t go out and buy any of it. I still don’t recommend it though.
I don’t mind reclaimed 5160 if you prove out the heat treat. And that doesn’t mean “it skated a file”, which is a phrase I really hate. I mean it was hrc tested with a calibrated machine. Other than that, I agree, reclaimed steel just isn’t worth it. My time is worth way more to me! 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks I completly agree. That phrase is overly miss used. I don’t do much with 5160 anymore honestly. I went to 80crv2.
I’ve used a bunch of fork lift forks from work (4140, I contacted the manufacturer) for tooling and hammers. But this is a knife making channel…😉
Just personal opinion, if you're beginning the journey. Find something you can get readily, cheaply and practice on it for a few months until you get consistent results. Fit, finish, artistry, profiles, edge geometry and other materials come with time as well into that, but mostly you just want a product at the end of the day which works with your tools and equipment.
For me, I could get O1 with free delivery for a decent price along with other stuff I just bundled into the order, probably not a great learner in hindsight but after a few months and a bit of advice I got them working right and it was pretty cost effective. That additional advice probably shaved months off my learning curve so make sure to ask someone that's at least qualified in some way with practical use of that material- worst comes to worst: read the manufacturers datasheet!
Just on that subject of data sheets, knife makers in the modern age are basically using stuff which essentially fell off the back of industrial tooling, mechanical parts, dies, castings, drill bits etc
Very little of it was ever made specifically for 'just knives', in fact I'd hazard a guess and say about maybe 5% of steels with an engineering standard are made for some kind of cutting tool, be it a razor, scalpel, wood chipper, hydraulic sheer, planer blades or scissors and generally do some kind of double duty like being used for ball bearings, axles, gearbox components, clock springs and goodness knows what else. But we're actually a very tiny part of the overall steel production sales target overall when it comes to cutlery and similar steels, pretty much all of it just gets offloaded into the industrial sector... then somewhere in that very tiny percentage of steel buyers for knives, are artisan and hobby knife makers!
Yes, I agree, it’s a good idea to start with a steel you can reliably heat treat and just learn to make knives from it. Grinding and finishing are way more important than knowing how to HT 10 different kinds of steels. 👍. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for the knowledge, TK !!!!!!! Now i know what kind of steel that BenchMade my Grizzly Ridge knife out of , CPM-S30V steel.
Yeah, that’s one of the more complex steels to use since it’s stainless. I’ll be doing a project with CPM154 soon. 👍
Thanks! I’m a beginner and that was great information. I love your videos. How did you decide on the shark logo?
Hi Kimberly. The shark is a representation of my other hobby/sport… I’m also a scuba instructor and have been in the water with many sharks, including cage diving with great whites! 😮🦈
Great PSA! 👍
Thanks James!
i hurt my hand taking notes for knife BUYING, thanks again
Thanks for watching!
You could do a video where you make the toughest knife you can make and invite other channels to do so too.
Just abuse these knifes as brutal as you can and then compare them.
just an idea😁
The problem is coming up with tests that are comparable to do equal testing. Maybe we’ll consider it. We are in the middle of a 20-channel build competition right now that you’ll hear about soon! 😜
Great Video denis:)! Clear and simple explanation.
Can you tell what is the source of temper matrix to 5160? The composition of 50HF (European substitut) is a little different, but I've never see any chart with hardness above 59HRC.
That data came from New Jersey Steel Baron data charts on their 5160 steel.
@@TyrellKnifeworks got it! I'll check it. Thanks Denis:)!
Brother this is a great informative video. My freaking canola oil. SMH parks 50 on order
I’m glad it was helpful, Nick! Parks50 is worth the cost of hours of frustration during heat treating! 👍
Terima kasih atas terjemahan nya, semoga sukses selalu buat saudara sekeluarga 👍👍👍👍🙏
Terima kasih telah menonton dan melihat video saya!
Great video. For your heat reading recipes, when you say soak for 10 minutes, do you mean once the oven gets to the goal temperature or for 10 minutes after you put the knife in at a lower temperature?
Yes, that’s correct, Dmitry. My recipes assume an oven but if you have a forge you’ll need to approximate that heat and soak time. Thanks for watching!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Didn't really answer the question. The first part of his question (before the "OR") is the correct interpretation of your instruction - 'soak time starts when the oven temperature reaches the oven set temperature'.
@@davidscadlock5569 sorry, I guess I didn’t read the whole question. Yes, soak time starts when it reaches the target temp.
Hi, the minutes of soak start to count when You insert the blade or when the oven reach the temperature for the treatment?
When you reach the target temp, not when you insert the blade. Thanks for watching.
Dennis quick question 01 tool steel you say there’s a soak time which I think is may be in the vicinity of 10 to 15 minutes. With 1” stock My question is I’m making slip joint folders and my blade is only 3 inches long by maybe 3/16 at the time of heat treat that means I really shouldn’t have any soak time just bring it to temperature in quench ? PS I’m using a Fordge not an oven.
It’d still recommended to soak it. That’s where the PID controller really shines. 😉. O1 is pretty forgiving though and is a slower quench so canola actually works.
I was wondering what temperature do you have your oil at for quenching?
I have mine at 120F. I keep a thermometer right beside the tank and use a rod I heat with the steel and that seems to take it perfectly to 120F every time. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you very much
Your heat treat chart says (oven) however I have a forge with a Y burner end which throws a two directional blaze onto a length of 5 inch square tubing that is insulated inside and has 300 1/4 inch holes drilled into it which allows the heat to evenly come to the blade , a thermal couple comes into the bottom of the square tubing . Yeah I know this sounds a bit odd but it helps me to hold a temp within a few degrees for a period of time .Sorry to ramble but , normalize 1095 by insert blade at 1400 and ramp to 1575 and soak 10 min and cool to black and follow to the next recommended normalize ? That is the question and again my apologies for the rambling.
If you’re using a forge, the forge will typically already be at the temp. You’ll insert you’re blade and try to get it up to the desired temp and keep it there. Keeping it there is the hard part. After you do the normalization and let it cool to black, you do the two grain refinement cycles (1450F), cooling to black between each and then do you’re soak at 1475 then quench. Hope that helps.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Roger That , I can throttle my burner and hold a certain temp with my set up and thermal couple, I’ll take a pic of your chart onto my I phone and have it for next heat treat , thanks a bunch !
What are your thoughts on D2? I use a lot of it and have had a lot of success with it.
I’ve never really used D2 myself. I hear it’s a bit hard to work and doesn’t really forge all that well. I know it’s used on a good number of production knives I’ve seen. I don’t have much other info on it.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I have forged only one or two knives with it. I definitely agree with its difficulty on forging. I only use it with stock removal now.
Is there a custom damascus multipurpose military knife?
I’m not sure what you mean. The most multi-purpose knife from the US military is probably the k-bar. They usually aren’t Damascus though.
can you make a Mokume Gane, Damascus knife, is it possible
You could use mokume gane to replace the copper layer. It can’t be on the cutting edge of course. I guess you could use it as cladding if you put steel as an outer layer but grind it completely off.
u do cooking knives
I certainly do chef knives. Next week's build is a chef knife. If you look at the Gyuto Challenge build, you'll see another chef knife build as well.
عالی👌👌👌👌
خیلی ممنون برای تماشای این همه ویدیو در کتابخانه، امید!
ممنون بخاطر اطلاعات خوب.ولی برای سختکاری آیا بوسیله کوره القایی هم میشه انجام داد.؟
@@maziar1401 فورج های القایی برای برخی چیزها خوب هستند. اگرچه برای عملیات حرارتی عالی نیست زیرا بدست آوردن دمای دقیق بسیار دشوار است زیرا آنها خیلی سریع گرم می شوند.
ممنون👍
OH MY fahrenheit recipes :( no nono
Sorry, next time I'll put the Celcius equivalents. Funny thing, I'm actually Canadian, but after living in the US for 20 years, you're forced to use the imperial system. 🤷♂️
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you for the kind answer.