Do cheap ultrasonic cleaners work? || RotarySMP
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- čas přidán 17. 04. 2021
- Testing 10L ultrasonic cleaner with various parts, incl. Russian aero engine piston.
Cheap Ultra sonic cleaner review.
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Having worked with Kerry ultrasonics in the UK on some cleaning problems there are a few insights that may be worth noting.
The idea of sub baths is great, but try where ever possible to stay away from soft materials, plastics and the likes as they absorb the energy reducing the necessary cavitation, so lab glass beakers works well, but also the tanks themselves are based on commercial catering dishes, and so are available in nesting sizes to go across and along most any tank.
Never places a part directly on the bottom of a tank you will be looking for trouble with the transducer.
Never put your hands into the tank when it is running, ultrasonics are used to emulsify biological samples!
As a rough rule of thumb industrial tank power is rated at around 1Kw per kg of parts to be cleaned. So your spindle job may be a little ambitious.
Up to a point for every 10°C increase in temperature the cleaning action of the solution about doubles. But beyond a point the transducers efficiency will start tailing off, I won’t usually run a tank above 60°C, that is not to say I won’t soak the job in a much hotter tank overnight, let it cool, then run the tank.
Best results are obtained by using deionised or distilled water, also degas the solution for a few minutes prior to starting.
When a job is being cleaned the contaminants will either got to the bottom of the tank, not a problem, or float to the top, where they are problem as they will simply recoat the part when it is removed, so the thing to do is using the sub tank and just prior to halling out, over fill the sub tank to the point of overflowing into the main tank, and thus skimming the liquids surface clean.
The chemistry is important when cleaning the mounted bearings as precision bearings don’t usually have metal ball cages so the chemistry need to be strong enough to unseat the “dirt” without damaging the cages, but it also must flush completely or may degrade or even destroy any new lube that you then replace. This is why I would go with a solvent rather than any water based chemistry, stay away from the aggressive, low flash point, especially acetone, and never soak overnight unless it’s a very benign solvent. A new large syringe (>50ml) and a short length of suitable tube works wonders to flush through the job while the tank is running.
Just my 2d.
Good luck.
Thanks lot for all that detailed feedback. I saw a couple of videos on meat tenderising wit U/S, so I wont have my fingers in the bath any more.
I immediately recommended acetone for the header. I still recommend it to my enemies.
Thanks for this great advice.
@@joso5554 mwahaha mwahaha! You're welcome!
This is the sort of input that we need on CZcams rather than amateur 'observations'. Thank you.
Could we take a moment to appreciate the sheer youtubeness of this production? You're starting to be a real youtuber with all the spongebob interludes.
Thanks. spongebob time cards are a really useful method of chopping utp the timeline.
Amatuer tip: Use a glass jar. Using plastic will eventually fatigue in the ultrasonic cleaner. Glass also has a better cavitation effect than plastic. Make sure the jar is tall enough to be above the water line so one does not need to cap the jar.
Thanks, I have switched to a glass jar.
Thank you. I would have enjoyed watching a 'control'... a part in caustic solution w/o the ultrasonic cleaner
@@SunriseLAW I was like a kid with then Xmas present. Too much fun to think about control.
@@RotarySMP HaHA Had that happen with my pressure washer. Saved up for a pretty nice one and they threw in a gallon of cleaning concentrate, which I applied with brush on a long pole. Turns out it works almost as good washing it off with the hose after using the 'soap'.
@@RotarySMP credit to you for using any kind of container though, you are the first youtuber I've seen who has not just plonked the parts to be cleaned direct in the bath. And your ziploc bag method was new to me - seems so obvious when you see it done! In the lab we always used tall pyrex beakers in the ultrasonic bath, with a watchglass on top to prevent spray/splashing. Also if you move the beaker / jar around you may feel one or two sweet spots on the base of the bath where the ultrasound is transferred most effectively (direct into the beaker not just thru the water) then the cleaning goes faster.
“Rather than reading the instructions I watched about 10 You Tube videos”. Modern world in a nutshell !
Yeah, I am sure I learned more through the comments than from the manual.
Modern of not its far more practical to look at actual use cases and people using the thing.
I am 1 level up from that - I am watching youtube video of a guy that watched youtube videos for a tool I will never own.
Coming from someone who regularly buys stuff from china, I whole-heartedly agree that you're better off watching youtube. The english in some of those manuals will give you an aneurysm trying to decipher.
@@IanSelvaraj Yep, that about sums it up :)
had same question several years now, thank you for sharing.
I figured it would be crap. Nice surprise.
Gotta admit I was expecting a “OH GOD IT HURTS!!!” After that *five minutes later* 🤣🤣
Yeah, I have since be told that is it really bad for the bones, and for the nerves, so I wont do that again.
I bought one of those with the analog dials for my garage and couldnt be happier, I brought it to work for two weeks and everyone found that it saved time and simplified cleaning parts before inspection. I took it home and even management was disappointed that it was gone , In an all time first , management listened to the workers and got us one .
Great to hear!
Try and see if you can get them to shell out for a commercial unit so that the one you have doesn't keep breaking and being replaced. The cost will add up for a business. Sonicor, Tovatech and Elma
This video is completely enthralling. You did an excellent job on every aspect. The content, the patter, the flow, the bumper graphics, all of it, excellent. I'm sold. If you aren't a salesman you might want to consider becoming one.
Thanks for the very positive feedback.
Thanks. I was exactly looking at the 15L version of that exact cleaner and your video has made the determination for me.
I hope they last okay, as the function is pretty good.
That worked a lot better than I thought on the rubbery grunge and bolts. And honestly, I would have never thought of the separate liquid container idea with the jars/bags. You'll have the insides of that schaublin shiny like new in no time.
I pick that up on a few of the other reviews. Sure reduces the mess.
@@RotarySMP I wonder how well this would work with things like etching copper/brass?
@@cavemaneca I was wondering that as well. It should accelerate the pocess a fair bit.
@@RotarySMP as long as the masking/resist layer holds up it could be very useful.
First thing said after using mine for the first time... "I should've bought the bigger one."
I am sure this will come, but there will always be a job just too big, but most cleaning jobs are small enough to fit.
As an old Jeweller who's used ultrasonics for 45yrs, NEVER insert your hands it's while running!
We had a Trade school Teacher who'd done just that over many years & it had affected the bones in his hands...
...so much so that he could no longer pick up or hold anything with his fingers.
Also all parts should be "suspended" within an ultrasonic, NOTHING should be resting on the bottom of the tank.
Ideally that supplied basket should have its handles bent outwards so it'll hang from the sides & allow any jars to have their tops open & above the water surface.
For cleaning jewellery our "everyday" mix was water, dishwashing liquid & a good splash of ammonia.
And a warning to anyone contemplating cleaning the Wife's jewellery to win some brownie points...
...there's a quite a number of precious & semi-precious stones that should NEVER go into an ultrasonic, so be warned!!
HTH, Colin
Thanks for that feedback. Once I watched a couple of videos of tenderising meat, I also though better of putting the hands in the will the vibration is running.
One thing learned using ultrasonic cleaners is to immediately dry and oil metal parts that can rust. These things are so thorough in their cleaning that metal can flash rust in minutes.
Also, as others have said, use a larger glass container which reaches above the surface because some cleaners can cause pressure to build up in the container. I occasionally use acetone in a a jar and it will boil if you're not careful.
Thanks for the tips. When I use caustic solutions. I rinse, then use WD-40, and then oil.
Thanks for the review. Bought a used ultrasound a while ago, but have never tried a container with solvent inside the bath - excellent suggestion!
A few YT videos suggested that. Really saves on the clean up, and uses way less chemicals for small parts.
never ceases to amaze me how much an ultrasonic cleaner can make cleaning of parts so much more efficient than trying to do it all by hand. Gotta love technology. ♥
You are right there. Sure beats scrubbing.
@@RotarySMP i worked for the second largest brewery in belgium, with multi million euro filing machines we had to scrub every part by hand for days in a big tub...
@Liam McNieve cool job? worst i ever had
I have one of these sinks and am happy with it. What I never thought of was the container trick so I didn't use strong solvents in the primary bath. Glad to have watched this video. Good trick.
Thanks for watching.
I bought the same unit a couple of months ago, the tips of putting things in a jar with a more aggressive cleaning agent will come handy 🙂 I enjoyed watching you clean your ‘piddle’ 🤗
Thanks for watching.
I've had the same cleaner for about a year and a half now and it's worked great. I've used it a lot. I even cleaned out the carbon from an atv muffler with it by cleaning half of it at a time.
They are quite a time saver.
Just a heads-up, you popped up in my Home recommended videos. Congrats on getting in on the algorithm. Influx of views on the way.
Thanks for watching.
I’ve got the exact same cleaner bought from AliExpress (over 12 months ago) still sitting in the box unopened. I think of it as Schrödinger’s Ultrasonic Cleaner. As it sits there, it both works, and it doesn’t.
Yeah, at least there is still the probablity of it working. Second thing I cleaned with it was my electric razor parts. Works great for that too.
Been wondering the same. After watching, and seeing a better way to use it, I think this is going on to the to buy list. I really do like the method of keeping the cleaners contained, it surely will prolong the life of the cleaner, or at least the housing...
Yeah, it is much easier if you just have to dump clean water when you are finished.
One thing I'd definitely check is if every part of the housing and the water container (especially if you're gonna stick your fingers in there while it's plugged in) is properly earthed, that can be a problem with Chinese produced electric appliances...
Good point. The cord is a standard three pin cold connector, but that does not guarantee that that it is connected internally.
@@RotarySMP You can measure that in a second with a multimeter ;)
@@janosnagyj.9540 Good point. Will do... after lunch :)
...And after the MotoGP.
@@RotarySMP I think if you are lucky you will find that the "chicken metal" case is connected to ground, but as the tank itself is glued in with silicone, they did not bother to connect it to ground as well... so if the outlet tube touches the sheet metal, then you can find some continuity, otherwise not much. At least, this was the case with my device which is a 6L model.
Wow thanks for the bag/jar trick IV been playing with ultrasonic cleaners for about 7 years now mainly do motorbike carbs but for little stuff I now don't have to get the water dirty 🤙👌
Yeh I picked this up frm other you tubers.
I cleaned up old aluminum pistons using hot antifreeze; the cheapest ethylene glycol based one the local shop had on the shelf. The pistons came out as good as new. I also tried it with an old slow cooker; straight up heat and no vibrations. It took longer but also came out clean.
I might even have some Antifreeze. WIll have to try that.
Years ago I cleaned my rc airplane engines in antifreeze and a crockpot. Dulled the nice finish on outside of motor. Came out very clean otherwise.
I used an ultrasonic cleaner for years for deep cleaning high-speed (450-thous RPM+) dental drills before disassembly and repairs. Various solvents worked in glass or plastic jars nearly submerged in the water bath.. The eoc-friendly bio-degradable cleaners also worked well. Typically, I used heavy duty floor wax stripper 50% or 100% mixed in a jar for stubborn items (contains butoxyethanol and aminoethanol as active ingredients...Zep branded or equivalent). Worked very well indeed for degreasing without harming any metal finishes.
Thanks for that feedback. I still have more experiementing to do.
“Got some problems with the Chinglish there” 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
;)
My exact thought lmao
I have a small equipment repair shop I run out of my garage here across the pond in the US. Being in a cold state every spring I get overrun with mowers, blowers, chain saws, etc that will not start after winter storage, carbs are clogged. I use an aluminum safe solution and pre heat the water on the stove before the process. Some carb cleaner sprayed first in the carb passages and then 10 minutes in the cooker (what I call the machine) the carbs look and run like new. I paid $120 US dollars and it has paid for itself several times over.
It sure is a handy device.
Excellent use of the word ‘greezy’! Liked it!
Might have picked that up from "Trailer park boys" :)
I am pretty happy with my 6L that I picked up a few months ago. Works a treat. I run the system a bit longer than 5 min. though. Usually 15-20 min.
I find that the water heater kinda sucks though and takes forever. So I pre-fill with hot/boiling water to give it an edge.
Cheers,
Yeah, it is really slow. I lso filled it with warm water.
When using dish washing detergent I find heating it to 60 degrees makes a big difference, and usually 20 minutes or more cleaning time. Anodized or painted parts will lose the coating where it has been nicked or scratched so be careful with any surface coating you want to keep. Sticky stuff like glue or rubber requires some type of solvent but everything else I use gentle detergent.
For carbon on pistions i like to use soda blasting. Just buy a jug of baking soda and put it in a normal sand blasting cabinet. Removes all the carbon without damaging the aluminium. Unlike sand or glass bead blasting that will remove material from the piston. Soda is even safe to use in the wrist pin hole. Rinse with water to remove the soda.
Thanks for that.
In case you’re still wondering, ultrasonics use fluid as a medium, blood is fluid. You parts in an ultrasonic bath can = cavitation happening inside your veins.
Yeah, after watching meat tenderising videos, I aint doing that again! Thanks for caring. I appreciate that.
@@RotarySMP
Np buddy, be safe.
In a HDPE bottle, try mixing up some "Ed's Red", which is typically a mixture of automatic transmission fluid, turpentine/mineral spirits, acetone, and kerosene. It's extremely good at removing carbon fouling like you have on the piston. This is often used for cleaning firearms with tons of fouling on them, though those mixtures also include lanolin to act as a lubricant. This is not likely necessary for you. It will work extremely well in the ultrasonic. I have also found that "simple green" (the purple metal-safe variant) is excellent for this, and I've used it in my ultrasonic for cleaning small carbon-fouled parts. There is likely to be a similar formulation available in Europe if you can't find the original, but only the purple version is safe for aluminum and other alloys.
That Ed's red sounds like just the cocktail. Thanks.
Great, just bought a 15ltr tank, glass jar and freezer bags are a brilliant idea thanks
Glad to help. Thanks for the feedback.
This a great vid, especially since there has been so much feedback from others on 'how to'. Some great ideas here on how I'll tackle deep cleaning - I have the same machine, still unboxed. The isolation of the parts by whatever means is a great idea to be specific to the clean, and not contaminate the whole setup. Great controlled tests that give a baseline for different ways to clean different items. Many thanks for this from across the ditch... your approach to testing approach is raw and refreshing - really helpful. Sub'd and liked 👍
Hi Mark, thanks for your kind feedback. I dont normally do tech review videos, as there are so many of them, but for some weird reason, this has been my most successful video. :)
I use some oven cleaner for anything carbon, what seems to work effectively is using glas in stead of plastics. The Ticopur stuff specially for Ultrasonic gives me the best results and works with everything. Yesterday I removed the stone stuff from exhaust valves using some chalk remover for the bathroom. Also works excellent. I always put some ticopur stuf in the water, also when I am using glas tot put in my parts. You can hear the sound change when you add it and it seems to make the ultrasonic waves more powerfull.
Thanks. I have had a few recomendations to switch to glass jars. Thanks for the Ticopur recomendation.
Very interesting test. The bag trick is an excellent one. I would suggest leaving parts for a substantially longer time for a thorough cleaning. For example with rust removal, 30’ to 1h may be a more adequate time imo.
Great tip!
dude someone stated soft plastic items in the cleaner weaken the ultrasonic action. better to use something hard/brittle like glass
It's one of the smartest purchases you've made yet. It will save you a ton of time, effort and money.
Thanks, After the Schaublin and Maho, they were much smarter :)
First video I saw from this channel. Subscribed
Welcome. You'll need a big bad of popcorm, s there is a lot of catching up to do :)
@@RotarySMP hahaha, I'm not in a hurry anyways
That should serve you well in the workshop... a nice purchase...
Yeah, better than expected.
My 2 pennies worth, it's my understanding that many items just need a "Whetting agent", most detergents achieve this, for ferrous rust removal, a "Citric Acid" based solution works well, very cheap to buy granules, mix up to 10% solution. I have purchased some high end Stamm products, and they work well, but basic chemicals as you've proved work well.
Great vlog, happy vibrations.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the tip. A viewer is sending me a cample of the citrix acid beased cleaner he uses.
@@RotarySMP That will be interesting to see.
Best regards John.
Yes I use it for cleaning carbs, I use kerosene for most stuff, then switch to petrol for one last clean. I dont use plastic jars though I found they soften too much. Just big glass jars. Never bothered using the heating function, seems to work well without it.
Thanks. I haven't done anything with solvents in jars yet. That comes next.
Putting fingers into Ultrasonic baths depends strongly on the strengh of the ultrasonic transducers. But anything not highly industrial (anything on amazon should be fine) should be safe.
Thanks. I guess it is still good practice to turn it off first.
Reason its packeaged upside down is the transducers are glued to the bottom of the tank. Hence, they are the correct orientation for shipping
Good point.
Thanks for a very informative video, not only a product review but multiple tips included. Count me in as a new subscriber. I would like to see how Evapo-rust works in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Thanks for the feedback. I dont think you can get Evapo rust over here.
Good Morning. You know, I'm one second into this video and just paused it to say II think you must be a mind reader. I was going to suggest an ultrasonic cleaner to this week! Before I watch further one thing that I will say is mine works brilliantly for me. It works fantastically well on ceramic cores used to wind inductors for ham radio. I buy old unloved piece of gear, toss suitable candidates in the ultrasonic for 20 or so minutes and it comes out looking brand new. YMMV. Now to finish watching :)
Yeah, I had no great expectations, but it really works well.
Very helpful video. I learned some techniques for using my cleaner better
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
we have these at my job.not the cheap ones though. we always leave parts go for 90 min. yea its safe to dip your bare hand in while its running if your quick enough to not get burned lol. machine parts and tools are all we put in there. works so well im watching these reviews to buy one for home.
This is a handy tool.
I've had the same unit for about 5 years now, fill it up, dump in a couple cups of Sam's club degreaser and whatever parts to clean, carburetors come out looking like new, diesel injectors same, now looking for a larger one that a cylinder head will fit in, they are worth every penny spent.
Thanks. They are a real work saver.
I usually scrub the parts with a wire brush and solvent(or tooth brush for more delicate stuff) before dropping it in the ultrasonic cleaner for 20min. It works really well. For rust removal try wire brushing to remove flakey rust followed by soaking in dilute citric acid for a few hours to a few days depending on how badly rusted it is and the ultrasonic cleaner does the final bit very effectively.
I normally use electroysis for rust.
Do yourself a favor and start with the ultrasonic. Then scrub, then ultrasonic again
Sometimes it is worth to RTFM. For example, it is written there, how you can change the timer for longer runs ;)
That was obvious, by I wanted to see what happened after 5 :)
@@RotarySMP It is interesting anyways, how good results you got after that short time, but I think it's the liquid here which really does the trick. I use a similar washer to clean LPs but I do 12-15min runs on one single record (1 full rotation in that time).
@@janosnagyj.9540 I think you are right. That old BBQ cleaner is pretty concentrated NaOH. Works well as oven cleaner when used undiluted.
Oh come on, you can't be serious. Next you'll be telling me microwave ovens have timing that doesn't come in 30 second increments...! Yeah right, now pull the other one...
@@AttilaAsztalos ...And lights which blink 12:00, so that you can navigate to the fridge which is next to the microwave, for a snack in the night.
That's great, I definitely need to get one of these one day!
Go for it!
I do not know if you can get it where you live, but Simple Green Extreme Aircraft/ Precision Cleaner is great on pistons. It was about $20/ gallon in the USA. Kind of expensive, great on aluminum, water/ cleaner ratio of 10/1. New to ultra sonic cleaning and automotive parts were my first project. I bought a large ultrasonic cleaner. I put pistons and connecting rods together at 80c and 30 minutes and it removed all of the cooked on carbon. It looked like new. Also barely could fit a aluminum head in the tank (had to rotate cleaning on each side) and it looked really good. Used the same cleaning solution for a complete engine build and it looked nasty but still worked good for the whole project. Still trying to figure out what cleaner works best on different metals. Want to try Evaporust, my go to rust remover, next on rusted parts. I like your low cost solutions like vinegar on rust in the ultrasonic machine.
Thanks for the tip, but I have not found a source of that cleaner here. That helps the US viewers though.
have you tried an Egg in there? Will it scramble in the shell?
I'll try it if you clean it :)
I was thinking chips! Maybe with a heating element mod!
Don't worry too much about the bath, although I use the ziplock / coffee jar trick too. If you leave "blued steel" in long enough, you can get it back to steel and re blue. Decoking pistons are though.... xylene is often quoted as effective...so is brake fluid. I've never tried either....
Thanks. I might even have some left over brake fluid.
I'm using a similar cheap ultrasonic cleaner but with the dialing knobs in front.
Some Times with petrol to clean carburetors or small parts... Works fine as long as the container is sealed properly. Most of the time i run the cleaner the full 0.5h (fire and forget)... Small engine cases runs up to 3 times to clean up. Sounds a long time to wait but it is clean. 👍
Thanks for the feedback.
I have a similar looking ultra sonic cleaner, I got mine from Pratt and Whitney surplus a few years back for $80. They’ve since closed down but the ultrasonic cleaner is still kicking, after many iterations of cleaners and solutions that were on average, a double edged sword, I found a safe cleaning product that seems to work very well (at least for me).
Awesome cleaner
It isn’t harmful in any way, so far as I can attest, I’m still testing, but so far so good.
Thanks. I bet the one from Pratt is higher quality than mine :)
@@RotarySMP What's funny is I don't see any company name or brands except for an old Budweiser dragster sticker, so either a Pratt and Whitney parts cleaner was a big fan of the beer or Budweiser were pro's at making ultrasonic cleaners.
@@eddietowers5595 Nice story there.
I think they are upside down in the box as the ultrasonic transducers are stuck to the bottom of the pan (and hang down), so right way up in transit could make them fall off with vibration etc. The one I ordered 1 was rattling around inside, and I had to epoxy it back on to the pan. Mine was right way up in the box, was about 2 years ago so maybe they have learnt... :)
I was also wondering if that was intentional. That makes sense.
FYI: Ultrasonic cleaners will remove hot/cold blueing on parts... just something to be aware of.
Thanks.
well that is technically the same thing as rust so that makes sense.
@@Xlaxsauce yep!
Interesting, is that true no matter the cleaner? I think I have a local gun shop that offers “ultrasonic cleaning”.
@@Mrcaffinebean I am pretty sure that will be dependant on the chemical used.
Great informative vid! Surprised to hear no accent... fellow Kiwi here :)
Looks like I'll be investing in one of these after all. Cheers!
Only about 4 million people without an accent :)
Thanks for commenting.
I've got a 30L unit, with the sweep freq option. I've just been using distilled water and a drop or two of dish detergent. It's is nowhere NEAR as quick as your BBQ cleaner, I need to look into that. On the flip side, if you've got time to let it churn with hot water it will get the job done. Some stuff may take an hour or two, but it'll do it given enough time. It's great when I'm working on other things while batches clean.
Drain cleaner is also NaOH.
I've used ultrasonic cleaners quite a lot. The best multipurpose cleaning agents are citrus based, in AU it's called orange power, not sure what your local version is. Another great cleaner is Biox, which we used for cleaning regulators used for Oxygen service. If you really really need to get it clean there's another cleaner called Ardrox, primarily used for cleaning/stripping aircraft!
Great tip! I bought some citrix acid, and use that a fair bit.
I worked for 10 years in a repair shop and used 96% isopropyl alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner regularly to clean electronics from water residue and other things that weren't supposed to be there.
It's safe to use isopropyl alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner!!!!!
The more cycles you run it the liquid goes from warmer to hotter to HOT!!!
Thanks for the tip.
Thumbs up for the Manuka Honey bottle. And the rest of the video ofcourse.
Thanks. I hope my wife didn't notice that I repurposed that. She liked it :)
Thanks for the video. Be careful about using plastic bags. If the part has a sharp edge it can cut through it, contaminating the water. Don't ask me how I know. :O( . Try cola for getting rid of carbon build up. It works on gas parts on rifles. Keep safe and stay well.
Thanks. Yeah I areadly had that with bags. I was thinking of cola for rust due to the phosphoric acid. Have to try it on that piston as well.
I use carb cleaner in mine which is a mix of things all of which are pretty flammable so I just make sure to keep an eye on it and when not in use I drain the cleaner back into it’s can. But it appears to not hurt aluminum and is way better than soap.
Thanks for the tip.
I like you using a container for parts to keep the water clean inside the ultrasound. Genius.
Thank you! 😊 but I also picked that up from YT
@@RotarySMP I prefer using a square pad sander with a heavy plastic container glued to the pad. Hang the item and turn it on and in 20 minutes the part is super clean and I used very little detergent. This has got to be the cheapest way for a poor mans ultrasound. Been doing it for a many years but only for smaller parts. Peace
@@victoryfirst2878 That sounds like a very good solution. Have you ever had the glue break on the container?
@@RotarySMP I have never had the glue release failure. The worst thing would be plastic jar drop from the sander. Maybe it could crack, but plastic usually survives. Especially if the jar is made of Lexan. The stuff is 3 to 5 times stronger than plexiglass. Peace vf
Try toluene. Flamable but with a much higher autoignition point than almost any other volatile hydrocarbon ( 550'c ).
It readily availible in New Zealand from paint shops, sold as wax/polish remover.
Hydrocarbons will not tarnish dissimilar metals like what happened to your bike pedal.
It will cavitate but won't act as a sufactant so they will readily desolve grease, styrenes, waxes, silicons, and none stabilised oil based paint.
Just swirling the bolts you did first it toluene would clean them, it realy eats grease.
Parts left in hydrocarbons won't oxidise if left for a day or two, unlike water based or diluted solutions.
For things with burnt on carbon, like the piston. Heat part to 140'c in a oven then Spray with oven cleaner.
For anything more stubborn use xylene, alot more pricey and harder to come by in concentration but it will strip things back to metal or glass.
Though these hydrocarbons will not rust parts they will leave them completely unprotected. I recommend CRC-226 for light protection, lanolin or car wax for better but still not tacky protection, soft seal / spray wax for long term noticeable protection.
Thanks for the tips. I'm not in NZ. Not sure if it is readily available here.
That piston is aluminium, so using over cleaner (NaOH like the BBQ cleaner I have), will attack it the same way it did the bike pedal.
also: try using glass jars instead of plastic. i watched a video where someone pointed out that the plastic dampens the ultrasonic waves or something.
would also be interesting to see a side by side of same jar and liquid left for same time outside the cleaner for comparison. then you can see what a difference the cleaner makes
Glass jars probably last longer in the US as well. Some of the bags got beat up pretty fast, so I doubt the plastic containers will last that well.
True, that caustic solution would also work without aggitation, but I guess it is sped up a lot.
In fact at the beginning of the video when he told he'll use plastic containers I thought the same: inside there will be no US effect at all... maybe there isn't anyway, and it's just the chemistry and the temperature which works there and bring the results ;)
@@janosnagyj.9540 Could be. Although i doubt soaking a bike pedal in dish water for 5 min would have had the result.
@@RotarySMP Yeah but the bike pedal was in the bag, not in the jar if I remember well. Some shaking-disturbing effect there was for sure, maybe not super- but subsonic ;)
@@RotarySMP Maybe a stainless container ?
*Next time you need to clean something really oily or that has carbon on it use straight gasoline as your solution in the jar or bag instead of water. The gas when used with ultrasonic cleaner will remove all of that tough stuff, even makes old black spark plugs look shiny, white, and like new again!*
Thanks for the tip.
I use big mason jars with rubber seals to submerge small parts in volatile chemicals the seals are easy to replace and the glass won't get damaged.
Thanks. Good idea. I have a couple of larger parts to clean, where the kitchen pyrex dishes would be perfect, but that would get me castrated, so I will have to stick with jars.
Thanks for the very interesting video, caustic soda is a great substance for breaking down organic fats or oils even ones that are baked on and burnt, hence barbecue cleaner, these properties do not transfer to mineral oils or or burnt mineral oil deposits, you are a knowledgeable person, paraffin or diesel have relatively high flash points, these would have been my cleaner options, I have played with caustic soda as a cleaner and have not found it to be very effective except on organic material, Just my thoughts
Thanks for very interesting video
Thanks for that. I though all non-polar liquids would be about equally broken down by NaOH. I didnt realise it is less effective on mineral oils.
NaOH breaks down animal & vegetable fats through saponification. This only works with triglycerides so doesn't work at all with mineral oil because they are just simple hydrocarbons. So it's not just less effective; it doesn't really do anything.
A well placed finger near an ultrasonic water fogger feels like a nail through the finger bones. The pain isn't so bad that you won't be tempted to try it a few times to make sure it really did hurt that bad. Haven't played with a cleaner though.
Yeah, havng watched a meat tenderising video, that bath now gets turned off before hands go in. Thanks for the feedback.
Ultrasonic cleaners without the surfactants that make the cavitation happen in the solution do not generally clean well at all, just acting like a vigorous rinse in whatever solvent they are immersed in, which is actually quite gentle and used for things like contact lenses. Ultrasonic cleaners need specified solutions to allow the cavitation that creates the vigorous cleaning action expected of them.
Thanks for the feedback.
I have a bigger version similar in size to a real ultrasonic bath I used at a motorcycle shop.
It gets the job done, but not as quickly as the expensive one the bike shop had. It also seems to have a less powerful heater.
Still 10/10 considering the price.
I have never used a proper one, but this one seems to work pretty well for must of my jobs.
@@RotarySMP same. The practical difference is minimal, especially for hobbyists. My knock-off might take 20 or 30 minutes vs the brand-name one only taking 10 or 15 minutes to achieve the same result; but either way the part comes out clean, and you didn't have to spend your own time scrubbing it. Just like how the dishwasher and washing machine might run for hours, but it only takes five minutes to load them.
Definitely a Good demonstration of an Ultra Sonic Cleaner.
Like most things in life.
Nothing is perfect.
As for the Ultra Sonic Cleaner ?
It has done a great job considering the asking price.
I was looking at buying one of these for my business over 20 years ago now.
Asking price at that time was around 22K.
Of course this was NO toy as you could imagine.
Made for cleaning Transmission cases to give you an idea of the size of the unit.
Of course the Price scared me off and i chose a different path for cleaning my parts ??
Yeah, I also had no great expectations, but it is a handy tool. saves a fair bit of scrubbing.
You would need good mechano-acoustic coupling through the container to the liquid inside to be most effective. I suspect different materials will damp the ultrasonics differently and give different results on cleaning. I think the thin polythene of the sandwich bag might be one of the best.
People also report good results with glass contsiners
How loud is the unit? I've used lab grade stuff and they appear to be a lot quieter than the Ebay ones for similar effectivness. Have they improved the noise since (roughly 2016)?
I don't have any comparison, but this is prety loud, and an especially annoying frequency. I tend to put on ear defenders if in the same room as it is running.
purple degreaser will clean the piston. It is sold as "Purple Power" here in the states. It will darken aluminum if you leave it in for weeks but we use it on aluminum often and it works great.
I've also heard good things about pine oil-based cleaners, particularly the pre-2013 formulation of Pine-Sol.
Thanks for the recommendations. I have heard that citrix acid based cleaners will work, and have some coming in.
I got the 3L version of that recently to clean parts after being tumbled, so far so good but it takes an age to heat up the water and didn't seem to have enough power to get above 50°c but for my purposes that's not really an issue.
I got mine off eBay UK from a Chinese seller with stock in a UK warehouse, one thing I found to my expense is if you make an offer they jack the price then make a counter offer higher than the buy it now price you've made an offer on and I swear all the different sellers are the same guy as they all jack the prices up at the same time, make another offer and they go up again. BIN Price when I made an offer was something like £39, paid £45 but by the time I'd got it the BIN price was £75!
Ouch. I bought mine off Amazon, and there the price also bounced around a bit.
That moment when he stuck his bare hand into the water…..😂😂😂😂 then said….. Not sure if you should do that 😦😂😂😂😂 so great
Yeah, not one of my finest moments :)
@@RotarySMP heck I’ve been there and done those kinda things and i still do! lol i have very good guardian angels watching over me….. exhausted no doubt and bald probably from pulling their hair out over my absentminded self……but still, very good at their job 🤓😂😂😂
I am thinking of buying one of these for clean PCBs and your video has more or less sold me on the idea but can I ask if you still have it and if its still working ok?
I still have it. It still works just as well, except that I blew up the heating element, by leaving it on with an empty bath. I need to replace that, but normally just pour in hot water at the start.
How much did it cost? I need one for really tiny parts like for microscopes etc. Some of the set screws on them are like 1mm by 3mm and are covered in rust. I can't very well put those in the Evaporust as there isn't a small enough mesh and I would like a better way to clean the rust off. This would also let me do something other than cleaning constantly!
I got the 10L one from Amazon, which are currently $170 or €179
USA - amzn.to/3ETmme0
EU - amzn.to/3eU09Sm
This is an affiliate link, so if you puchase through there, it cost you no extra, but I get a small commission to assist the channel.
@@RotarySMP thanks! I'll check it out.
@RYAN I dont think Evaporust is a thing in europe.
Hi great video as always. Just a quick question, did You degas the water before you started cleaning? You should take out the basket and let it wiz around for 10 min. It will improve cleaning a lot (-:
Edit:spelling
Agreed, I've found the basket kills most of the ultrasonic action.
Thanks. I just used tap water. I'll try degasing it.
How much did it cost? Where did you get it from?
Cool video by the way, very informative.
For cleaning the piston better use organic solvents like Acetone or Dimethylformamide
It is just the standard one on amazon, and cost about €130.
@@RotarySMP Thank you. Found it even on Ebay for €120.
I got a 30l one of these. Big enough for a rack of carbs from a 4cyl bike. It gets hot, it cleans the parts, not much epse to say. Jury is still out on longevity.
There are quite a few reports of early failuresin the comments I have received. Hope mine is a decent one.
I am letting to get my suppressor cleaned what solvent would you recommend. It’s titanium and stainless
I like caustic based cleaner for stainless. I am not sure with titanium, as I have none. Citric acid based cleaners are also quite effective.
I know its 3 years later. Is your Ultrasonic unit still working?? Reason being, a lot of these cheap units explode over time.
Mine still works, except for the heater, which I blew up by having it on while empty.
So a year has passed since you made this video. Im assuming you learned thru trial and error what the best cleaning solution is by now. Im looking to buy a "cheap model" from Harbor freight and would appreciate any recommendations. Ill mainly be cleaning small engine carbs and parts. (Mainly just carburetors). I have some older small engines (Wisconsin) that cheap Chinese replacements aren't available online so I've decided to try and clean them myself. Thanks in advance for any and all advice!!!
I haven't cleaned aluminium or zinc parts like carb's, but the recommendation I received was to use citric acid based cleaners for things like that.
@@RotarySMP Thank you for replying!
@@aaronmaynor6563 There is a lot of good advice in the comment section to this video, from people way more experienced with U/S cleaners than me.
Dont switch it on with the bath empty. I blew up my heating element like that. Need to search Ebay for a replacement and fit it.
I have the 30l version of that unit....works like a champ....heats up kinda slow, though.
This one as well. I put in 40°C water and it takes about an hour to get to 50°C.
Baum's Castorine makes a really good cleaner for getting hydrocarbons off alloy parts... just soak over night and scrub with a nylon brush. "Proteco Clean 115"
Thanks for the tip.
Looks just like the 6L I've got - hope you get more than 10 hrs out of it!
SO far it is working fine, except for the heater which i stupidly blew up by having it one with the tank empty. I need to replace that.
The ultrasonic waves are more efficiently transferred through a glass container without any air inside
Thanks for the tip. Others also pointed that one out.
I enjoyed this video way to much
Thanks for your feedback. I appreciate it.
they are shipped upside down because the ultrasonic transducers are glued to the bottom of the tank and they have quite some weight, transporting it upright might detach them when the package gets dropped. just a speculation, never unboxed one
Yeah, that sounds about right.
Keep cleaning that serial number plate. You’ll get it clean someday!
The Swiss really make the best gunk!
Putting combustibles into a *sealed container* in the ultrasonic is infinitely more dangerous. Effectively, by doing that, you upgraded from a fire in a bin, to an explosion waiting to happen. You haven't prevented the materials from combusting, you've prevented any gas expansion from said combustion from leaving, hence creating pressure, hence creating explosion if anything goes wrong.
Good point.
Try using dishwashing soap and citric acid for rusty and gunky/greasy parts. Worked really well when i tried. But i usually keep everything for minimum 20-30 minutes in
I was sent some citrix acis powder. So far only tried it as a rust remover.
@@RotarySMP the citric acid works really well in the ultrasonic cleaner. Especially cause the UC keeps the citric acid warm all the time. I had some old car hood hinges that were rusty and filled with gunked up old grease and the mix with dish soap and citric acid cleaned them really well and removed all the rust at the same. I changed the solution to clean after 30 min and kept it in new solution for 20 min and then left them overnight in the solution.
What I do with mine is fill it up about half way so that the jars aren't fully submerged. No fussing with lids required.
Good point.
theres a new jafromobile video where he experiments with a big ultrasonic cleaner, using crankshafts, cylinder heads, pretty interesting stuff
Thanks.
Love Jafro!
In searching Amazon, one feature I've seen on some is a "degas" cycle... is that a useless selling feature or something worth looking into?
I had a couple of comments saying that you first fill the basin with water, then run the U/S for 20 min with nothing in there, and that removes the desolved gas from the water, and makes the U/S waves pass through without attenuation.
@@RotarySMP Interesting! So, then the ones with such a "mode" probably are nothing more than a timer before you put something in LOL