Man, that's heartbreaking to have to replace twice in two years! I'll definitely spend a little more and get Motorcraft when I do mine. Great, clear, concise video. Thanks!
It certainly was unfortunate but I was able to get my money back for the ones that failed so it wasn't too much of a loss. Thanks for the comment and the compliment, I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
I've had to replace mine every 2yrs for 9 fucking years! Always had a shop do it. Assuming they use the cheapest. Now I will do my own and use Motorcraft.
@@Olly1775 I always buy OEM unless a better aftermarket part is available. Many make the cheaper made mistake. I just watch a girl do exactly what you are correcting on CZcams. She bought the Autozone one you said to avoid.
@@timothycoleman8916 Yeah, I’ve seen that video. Sometimes you can use the cheaper parts and not have any problems but, for some parts you just can’t compromise on the quality. Hopefully she doesn’t experience the same thing I did but, I really wouldn’t be that surprised if they failed prematurely.
You’re welcome! I’m glad you were able to learn something from the video. After I posted it, I realized that I probably should have explained that but fortunately you were able to figure it out. Thanks for watching!
Just did this on my e99 7.3PS. I know someone was in there before, because there was a lot of parts missing. Some friction discs, and some misc. parts LOL
Yep I think a lot of us have made that mistake trying to save money and go aftermarket and that happens. I did it once but I won’t ever do it again lol. I use genuine motorcraft parts now lol
A good video but if you don't have the proper long reach snap ring tool don't do it, even if you can remove the snap ring, you will not get it back in without damaging something without the proper tool, what took me hours to remove would of been minutes with the proper long reach snap ring tool. Knipex makes a good one.
Yes, not having a good enough snap ring plier will make the job very difficult. If it's not long enough you may not be able to do it. The pliers that I used weren't especially long though, they are commonly found at most places. I've never heard of knipex but I'll check them out.
@@Olly1775 I went to all the local auto parts stores (4) and 3 big box stores that only had short or medium length, one would of been long enough but it was convertible from inner to outer snap rings that made the hinge too bulky to get past the spline, the better one had replaceable pins but they broke playing with the new snap ring if you extended them out to far, that is a heavy duty snap ring. I agree with the OEM bearing use, I have gotten burned before with after market "we are better claims". Thanks for your videos!
@@StephenWhiting-WI Yeah, I was going to mention that the reversible ones are too bulky to get in there. I honestly don't remember where I got the ones that I used! I think it may have actually been Home Depot, not sure though. I don't normally get tools from parts stores. Home Depot, Harbor Freight, and Amazon will typically have what you need. NAPA is also a good source but their stuff is usually a bit more expensive. Thanks for the comments and I'm glad you liked the video! I'll try to remember to discuss things like this a bit more in-depth in the future!
No, they're only sold as an assembly for the newer year models. You may be able to find just the bearing, but I haven't seen it. It would also be fairly difficult to disassemble the hub to get to the bearing. Thanks for the compliment, much appreciated!
@@juan60670 Yeah, I see that a lot as well. I get it, it’s probably faster but I think sometimes people get a little carried away with it. I don’t ever use any of that in the industry I’m in so I’ve just grown accustomed to doing things with basic hand tools.
Yeah, some of their stuff isn't the highest quality, it all depends on what you get. I haven't had any issues so far, but I also don't buy parts from there, just tools.
@@scottberry5266 These newer wheel bearings are made as a unit and are integral to the wheel hub. They aren’t meant to be replaced that way. You could probably find the bearing itself but it wouldn’t be nearly as easy.
@@Olly1775 : yup, I was looking on line for bearings for my Ford and looked at the back side and saw the center bearing with a snap ring and thought just press the bearing out. Then I realized that bearing holds the axle shaft. Getting ready to do the same job this week.
@@Olly1775 ...so you changed the whole hub assembly. You did not press out the old bearings from inside the hub and press new bearings back into the hub.
Yes, Rock auto has a great selection of parts and they have good prices as well. The problem is, highly critical parts like wheel bearings don't do so well when they're not the best quality. Most of the time cheaper "nock-off" brand bearings, such as Duralast or something equivalent, will do just fine. The way these other manufactures are able to charge less is because they tend to use cheaper materials. In some applications like mine, a 9000lb truck, these cheaper materials just don't hold up as well. There is also the issue of inevitable defects. It doesn't matter who makes it or what they make it out of, it can still fail. Thanks for the comment, I hope you enjoyed the video!
Man, that's heartbreaking to have to replace twice in two years! I'll definitely spend a little more and get Motorcraft when I do mine. Great, clear, concise video. Thanks!
It certainly was unfortunate but I was able to get my money back for the ones that failed so it wasn't too much of a loss. Thanks for the comment and the compliment, I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
I've had to replace mine every 2yrs for 9 fucking years! Always had a shop do it. Assuming they use the cheapest. Now I will do my own and use Motorcraft.
The OEM tip was worth the like for the video. Nice job J.O.
Thank you, glad I could help!
@@Olly1775 I always buy OEM unless a better aftermarket part is available.
Many make the cheaper made mistake.
I just watch a girl do exactly what you are correcting on CZcams.
She bought the Autozone one you said to avoid.
@@timothycoleman8916 Yeah, I’ve seen that video. Sometimes you can use the cheaper parts and not have any problems but, for some parts you just can’t compromise on the quality. Hopefully she doesn’t experience the same thing I did but, I really wouldn’t be that surprised if they failed prematurely.
I’ve worked on many trucks over the years, but this F350 dually is new territory for me. Thanks for the clear laid out video.
You’re welcome, I appreciate your feedback!
Thanks for the video. I see the snap ring is to keep the axle from going in past that point. Didn't catch that from other sources.
You’re welcome! I’m glad you were able to learn something from the video. After I posted it, I realized that I probably should have explained that but fortunately you were able to figure it out. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with other's.
You’re very welcome, I appreciate your appreciation!
Thanks for your knowledge
You’re very welcome!
I like that you are a normal person
Thanks!
Great video. I'm getting ready to do mine on my 17 f250.
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it!
Just did this on my e99 7.3PS. I know someone was in there before, because there was a lot of parts missing. Some friction discs, and some misc. parts LOL
Great job 👏
Thank you!
Thank you! Nice Job
Thank you!
Not looking forward to doing mine, its a rusty mess. Thanks for the video and the ideal about using the steering to press it off.
No problem, glad I could help!
After you install and run your vehicle check your axel tension and tighten it.
You'll get a 1/4 turn out of em most times the castle nut that is.
Yep I think a lot of us have made that mistake trying to save money and go aftermarket and that happens. I did it once but I won’t ever do it again lol. I use genuine motorcraft parts now lol
Yeah, for sure! Sometimes you can get away with it but for some parts it's certainly not worth the compromise. Thanks for watching!
A good video but if you don't have the proper long reach snap ring tool don't do it, even if you can remove the snap ring, you will not get it back in without damaging something without the proper tool, what took me hours to remove would of been minutes with the proper long reach snap ring tool. Knipex makes a good one.
Yes, not having a good enough snap ring plier will make the job very difficult. If it's not long enough you may not be able to do it. The pliers that I used weren't especially long though, they are commonly found at most places. I've never heard of knipex but I'll check them out.
@@Olly1775 I went to all the local auto parts stores (4) and 3 big box stores that only had short or medium length, one would of been long enough but it was convertible from inner to outer snap rings that made the hinge too bulky to get past the spline, the better one had replaceable pins but they broke playing with the new snap ring if you extended them out to far, that is a heavy duty snap ring. I agree with the OEM bearing use, I have gotten burned before with after market "we are better claims". Thanks for your videos!
@@StephenWhiting-WI Yeah, I was going to mention that the reversible ones are too bulky to get in there. I honestly don't remember where I got the ones that I used! I think it may have actually been Home Depot, not sure though. I don't normally get tools from parts stores. Home Depot, Harbor Freight, and Amazon will typically have what you need. NAPA is also a good source but their stuff is usually a bit more expensive. Thanks for the comments and I'm glad you liked the video! I'll try to remember to discuss things like this a bit more in-depth in the future!
If the bearing went. Can you just replace the bearing or do you have to do the whole hub?. Thank you great video..
No, they're only sold as an assembly for the newer year models. You may be able to find just the bearing, but I haven't seen it. It would also be fairly difficult to disassemble the hub to get to the bearing. Thanks for the compliment, much appreciated!
@@Olly1775 ok thank you
Did you need a new wheel speed sensor or did it just come with the hub assembly? Ha you just answered as I typed this
Same thing happened. My hub assembly lasted 7 months.
Yeah, it sucks wasting money like that! Where did you get the ones that failed?
I like how he didn't use any electric tools
That was definitely intentional, I just prefer it that way!
@Olly1775 most videos I watch their have air tools or snap on electric
@@juan60670 Yeah, I see that a lot as well. I get it, it’s probably faster but I think sometimes people get a little carried away with it. I don’t ever use any of that in the industry I’m in so I’ve just grown accustomed to doing things with basic hand tools.
My F 350 wheel lugs tork 155 ft lb. That 450 might be different? I looked it up and got 150 to 175
Wheel nuts are 165 ft/lbs
Always use factory Ford parts!
People say the brand napa is bad quality ,👍🇬🇧
Yeah, some of their stuff isn't the highest quality, it all depends on what you get. I haven't had any issues so far, but I also don't buy parts from there, just tools.
@@Olly1775 yes hope their wheel bearings are ok as just fitted some against my mechanics recommendation.he is not happy
Dana spicer is what you want
Wonder why a person couldn’t just press the old bearing out and press a new one in. I believe it’s just a caged sealed ball bearing assembly.
Oops never mind, I see why. The bearing that you see is just for the axle shaft.
@@scottberry5266 These newer wheel bearings are made as a unit and are integral to the wheel hub. They aren’t meant to be replaced that way. You could probably find the bearing itself but it wouldn’t be nearly as easy.
@@Olly1775 : yup, I was looking on line for bearings for my Ford and looked at the back side and saw the center bearing with a snap ring and thought just press the bearing out. Then I realized that bearing holds the axle shaft. Getting ready to do the same job this week.
@@scottberry5266 Awesome, I hope this video helps! Thanks for watching!
I do 3 Ugga uggas per wheel
That’s sounds about right!
Was ready to watch you change the bearings as you said, only to watch you change the hub assembly 😢😢
I did change the bearings. The front wheel bearings, on this particular vehicle, are integral to the hub assemblies.
@@Olly1775 ...so you changed the whole hub assembly. You did not press out the old bearings from inside the hub and press new bearings back into the hub.
Correct.
Mine didn't last 5 months
That sucks! What brand did you get?
@@Olly1775 auto zone
Rock auto has a better selection and are typically cheaper
They do. Their customer service is the pits. Products are good.
Yes, Rock auto has a great selection of parts and they have good prices as well. The problem is, highly critical parts like wheel bearings don't do so well when they're not the best quality. Most of the time cheaper "nock-off" brand bearings, such as Duralast or something equivalent, will do just fine. The way these other manufactures are able to charge less is because they tend to use cheaper materials. In some applications like mine, a 9000lb truck, these cheaper materials just don't hold up as well. There is also the issue of inevitable defects. It doesn't matter who makes it or what they make it out of, it can still fail. Thanks for the comment, I hope you enjoyed the video!