DIY / Building a wooden fence using galvanized fence posts (part 1).
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- čas přidán 28. 09. 2018
- In this video, I show you guys how i'm constructing my wooden fence using 2 3/8 diameter galvanized fence posts and metal post to wood brackets (see link below). This is a long lasting build because only the wood will need to be replaced in the future after they become too old. If you buy the brackets using this link, I'll get a little help from amazon.
160 Foot Fence Job: • DIY / Tree Root Issues...
Metal End Post Brackets: amzn.to/2CdlB4J
Metal Post Brackets: amzn.to/35a0EEs
Metal Galv. Fence Post: www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-3-8... - Jak na to + styl
This is the exact tutorial I needed! Thank you!
This is exactly how my fence was built 20 years ago. Except we used 2x3, not 2x4 crossbeams. Only some pickets have had to be replaced over the years. The posts are great.
That is awesome Stephen and that is exactly why I chose this method of building my fence.
Nice work. I’m a landscape contractor that builds fences too. You r so right about getting those line posts plumb and TAKING YOUR TIME to install the pickets so straight. The rest of the job goes much better.
Thanks alot Paul and I really appreciate your positive comment. It's always nice to hear from other people who take pride in their work.
Glad you got your land back... nicer to look at a fence than the overgrown weeds next door too.
This is good method to build fence posts like that. Nice looking and strong hold. Thanks for sharing
Thank you Moto Shadow...
Solid technique I like the postmaster ones like they use for traffic signs.
Thanks Brian! Ever since I learned of this technique, it's the only one I use on my property but I also recommend this to my customers first before referencing an all wood construction using pressure treated 4x4's.
Very good breakdown of your plan, layout and expected finish. Thumbs up.
Thank you and I was trying to make sure I had a good outcome.
These are nice, I helped my neighbor few yrs back doing the exactly same thing but he wanted panels instead of individual pickets. They used to have them at homedepot. Now it has to be ordered.
Yeah, doing it like this or custom in my opinion, will last longer because of the hardware used to secure the framing and pickets. Pre fab panels are okay for a few years maybe depending where you live.
@@MannyFontes1968 matter of fact. I'm in the middle of doing mine. Shadow box style but in inside is custom pickets. I burnt my pickets and going to clear coated. Yeah sounds crazy but why not experiment with it. Out side pickets are just dog ears 4"space between them.
@@law35penn that sounds good and I also ended up clear coating the new extension I made to finish this project by adding more longevity to the structure.
@@MannyFontes1968 👍👍
I'm in the middle of doing this myself! Yours looks great!
Thanks for watching and your comment... Let me know how yours turns out.
@@MannyFontes1968 Will do!
Nice job! I been think about something like this but just never seen it before now I know is going to work! Thank you for your advice!
Thank you and yes, this is a great way to install fencing that will last a good long while.
Thanks a lot for this info man I've been wanting to put me up a fence for a while but can't afford vinyl and wood is great but my yard stays moist and wet so I didn't want to deal wtih the bs of having the post rot out every few years like my neighbors. Their fence is falling down and no one is doing anything about it lol.
You're welcome Lakario and for me also, this was the better cost effective option but at the same time thinking about the future and making it easier to change out the boards when time comes.
This is perfect! Thank you
Thanks Mark and I hope your project comes out just as good.
This is the type of great idea - so simple to understand, but I could never have come up with it myself.
Thank you
Thanks Sean and that's why I love CZcams because we can all share our ideas with other people...
Appreciate this content 🎥
Thank you for watching!
This is good work. Smart to use galvanized posts on a wood fence -- best of both worlds!
Thank you themonkeydrunken!!! Yes, this is by far the best way to build a wooden fence that I would recommend. Thank you for watching and your comment!
Nice video, thanks! Would love to see how maid door attachment from galvanized post structure.
Thanks John, I will be making the part 2 in the near future that will show how I made the gates for this project.
I’d like to try this! However my neighbor has a broken down fence still up and I’d like to fence my side at least. Ideally this would be a lot cheaper than going with concrete and blocks.
Weese, you can definitely put up some fencing on your side but I would check to see if your neighbor would like to go halves on the fencing that way you won't lose any footage on your side.
I built my fence also using galvanized steel fence post, but I also pour a 6" wide concrete beam, 3" deep with 3/8" rebar reinforcing the entire length to protect the posts and bottom of the fence, then build a frame of 2x4 that fit between the post with 3 horizontal 2x4. the bottom 2x4 I taper the top with my power planer to drain the water off the top of the rail. I used Flood wood stain to protect the wood from deterioration, also I top the fence with a 2x6 also taper to keep water from soaking into the wood.
David, that is definitely a stout build and the extra finishes you added to your build will keep your fence looking good for a long time to come.
How do you taper a 2x6? Also what you say sounds nice, but that concrete beam sounds like a looot of extra work and expense. A foot board is easy/cheap enough to replace, won't it last 10 years?
Thank you for this!!!
You're welcome and I this video was helpful to you...
Good job!!! Wish I had a man to do this for me!!
Thanks shinerbock and if you lived closer, I would help you with your project...😊
@Ordinary Pete You read my description...good boy...it was a joke, but I saw the video, that dude is a weirdo!! And yes sir it is MAM!!!!!!
Brilliant
Thanks Ashland!😊
Very nice, i been trying to find some type of decorations for the galvanize poles in my fence!
@3olemrac, thanks, let me know what ideas you come up with to decorate them.
Easy. Use 2x2 strips on both sides of the pole, screw the strips to the pickets. Then attach a picket to the strips and bam, your pole is covered with a nice wood piece.
In hurricane areas they usually recommend burying the posts 3ft in the ground, but the problem with that is it only leaves 5ft above ground since they come in 8ft lengths. After our recent hurricane I have seen fences pulled right out of the ground, concrete and all.
Shawn, in certain areas where you're prone for high winds that would be the case and for me, so far it's been good and the short gap between me and my neighbor also helps alot.
Maybe doing 6' apart would be better in high wind and hurricane areas.
How did you level the steel post? I know the obvious way but have you have a better idea? Please let me know.
Great system. How strong is this when you push on it? My wood posts are always rotting out.
With permits? What part of the country? Are posts 8 feet center apart like that legal in Florida?
Anybody really get permits for a fence? I wonder what the fine is in most counties in Florida?
Thanks and it is very sturdy and strong. Yes, I used to have wood posts also and but the hot summers here did a number on them and that's why I went with the metal ones. Permit wasn't necessary because I was replacing an existing fence and am in central FL. I believe 8' centers is the minimum but you could go with 7' or 6', it's totally up to you. For Hillsborough county! "Typically, a permit is not required to install a fence. However, it is recommended to talk to a zoning counselor to identify height and placement restrictions."
Brilliant!! I'm trying to find the same adaptors for 3" poles. Any suggestions?
Ann, the only thing that I could find that may fit your 3 inch poles are these. Here's the link! amzn.to/3dJhKg5
I have 4ft glavanized posts for my wire fence any suggestions on what I can do? I would like to use same posts and do what you did with 6ft fence
Oscar, depending on how high your posts are, you can definitely build your fence like mine. If your posts are only 4ft tall, you can buy 2ft extensions to make a 6ft fence and also the brackets that I used for the support boards.
I'm in the same boat. I have a 4' chain link fence now. I want to go with wood and use the existing metal posts to make it 6' high. I have a few dogs and one jumps the chain link with ease. I thought about using extensions also to the metal posts which should save some money.
Nice job man got alot of good ideas from ya! Question.... How could I make a couple 90°'s if I wanted to come around a tree like my existing fence is?? Any special brackets for that is I using the pipe and brackets like you described without any wood posts??
Thank you and yes, you can cut the bracket in the middle but only on the bottom half where it makes the "L" shape so that you can bend it and make it turn 90 degrees and just have the two pieces of support 2x4 butt up against each other. You could probably also use some flat "L' brackets to splice your 90 degree corners for changing direction.
Brilliant well done love it Larrysullivan in London
Thank you so much Larry for watching and your comment.
Do you have a part 2 for this video? What pickets did you end up using?
Dwight, I used the 1x6"x6' dog ear pickets and yes, part two will be coming some time in the future.
I have seen people use a chain link gate frame and drilling holes to bolt on the wood on the outside so the gate never sags.
Yes Chad, that is a good option to use if you want a good sturdy gate and I think the weight difference between using wood vs. metal may only be a small amount.
How was we arrange the corner using these post ? I live in Florida too and have to repair a corner of the yard 100" by 98". I don't have fence experience but need to get this done. Is those 2x4 rails ?
Michael, if the framing in the corner where you need to make your repair is good, then you can use two or more of these metal posts to re-secure your framing and rebuild that section. Set the metal posts in concrete for a stronger repair. Yes, my top and middle rails are 2x4x8 pressure treated.
great vid Manny! Do u think the post brackets would support smaller posts? like 1 7/8" posts? thanks bud
Thanks Scott! Because the round diameter of the post side is made for the 2 3/8 dia. metal post, it might not compress enough to squeeze a smaller diameter post unless the ends of the clamp are flattened so it takes up the extra slack.
@@MannyFontes1968 yea, thats what i was thinkin. i ordered just one of them to test out on my fence. Thank again
This is excellent info!
Ever gonna be a part 2?
Yes Tee, when I finish some other projects, I will post part 2 which is building the gates.
@@MannyFontes1968 Oh I know how that goes brother - trust me!
Thanks for the quick reply.
Lookin forward to that video.
Be well!
How did you get it exactly where your fence rails meet in the center of your post? Thank you.
That's a great question and I used construction line and 1/2" rebar rods to mark my 8' centers and then once I set the posts in the holes, I made sure it lined up with the rebar rod. Even if your off by a 1/2" or so, the metal brackets will take up the difference.
If that's a problem couldn't you just use 10' 2x4s and cut them as needed?
This looks incredible. Thank you for sharing this. I want to build an 8ft tall fence for privacy. Your video gave me some ideas.
Thank you so much and i'm glad that this video will help you to design your own installation...
Nice idea: good install.
Please could you post a link to the galvanised posts and brackets you used.
How do the galvanised posts compare price wise to traditional pressure treated 4 x 4’s?
Thanks AdvancedIT, the metal post cost $21.20 ea. and the 4 x 4 PT post costs $6.88 ea. at Lowe's.
Doing this but on a slope. Need to join together 2 x 4 at an angle. Looking for ideas
Daniel, if you're using the same type of metal posts and brackets as I did, then you can flatten the bottom of the bracket to allow the 2x4's to lay flat and at the angle you need them to be to butt up to each other.
In case I missed it. What is the plate that is holding the 2 pieces of wood together that you have thr bolts going through?
Those are called "metal to wood fence brackets" and I got them from Lowe's.
Another qyestion if you don't mind. How do you keep the post plum and level until the concrete dries? Thank you.
I use a 4x4 fence post level first to get it plum on both sides once in the concrete and then I use a 4ft. level to double check it once the concrete has set for about 15-20 minutes. The concrete I use is a quick setting one and once you get it plum, it won't move if nothing touches it or bumps against it. After 24 hours, it will be ready to mount your brackets and boards. Here's the link for the 4x4 level!
www.lowes.com/pd/Johnson-Level-9-in-Cross-Check-Standard-Level/1000085669
I use 8’ posts with 2’ in the hole and also the fast set concrete. I've found that by the time I pour roughly 4 -50# bags, the post stays exactly where set. After I add water, I re check plum and level and it never changed. After an hour it won't move even if gently bumped
Another trick is to give the post a few wacks with a t-post driver helps to stabilize the post
nice video..im planning to do this as well..do a video after and what kind of wood u used
Thanks caster and good luck with your build...
are there brackets that are "two sided" so you can use round posts and make a good neighbor fence?
Me personally I haven't seen any but i'm sure that someone with welding skills can make some. Usually, neighbors just agree on which side the pickets will face so that they don't have to put up two separate fences.
Worst case, use two brackets, one facing the neighbor, one facing you. That will cost you double the 2x4 framing. Another idea: Put on the framing as shown here and you can attach pickets on both sides with no problem everywhere except where there is the post. Just leave a gap for the post there, and you will be pretty good. If you want a little extra polish, attach a picket over the post. You will see a bump there every 8 feet but it won't look bad.
I’m gonna use this idea but add it to an existing all wood fence use the metal posts as extra support because my fence is about less then a year old and is already saggin a little due to this high heat
Yes absolutely! Adding the metal posts will definitely help to provide more support for your fencing.
The link to the bracket you used is not the same as what you appear to use. The one you used seems to be adjustable for angles. Do you have the link to that particular bracket?
Nicholas, the brackets I linked to can be used as well but here's another link you can use. www.lowes.com/pd/2-3-8-IN-ADJUST-WOOD-POST-ADAPTOR/1002916330
Hi what is the lumber you used for framing? Is it 2x4 studs? My metal fence posting distance from each other is varying like one distance is 10 ft and another has 15 ft and some other 12 ft. What is the length of stud I should buy? Like 12 ft 14 ft or 16 ft.. Cut them when needed and join them?
Hello shakir and yes! I'm using pressure treated 2x4's and 2x6's lumber at 8 foot lengths. Your metal fence posting should be at 8 foot centers because anything longer will cause your support boards to sag in the middle over time. You can use longer lumber than 8 foot but you'll need more support in between the posts.
@@MannyFontes1968 Thank you...Manny.
Awesome video, thank you. Question: The posts are 2 3/8 in. diameter and 8 ft. long as you stated, is this the same as chain link posts? Also, can you use a T post driver instead of doing concrete? I need to build a 20 foot long fence at least 6 feet high, would a 6 ft. long post be enough?
Thank you! Yes, this is a chain link post and I suppose you could use T post driver but if you have rocky soil, it might make it harder to pound down. A 6 ft. long post would be too short to support a 6 ft fence.
The posts will last 100 years in the ground 😮. I built the same kind but 4 string 2x4 with a 4.5 distance between all posts. 60 mph winds don’t even phase the fence it just laughs 😊
Also I have 2 entry gates that are steel frame one 6 ft wide and a double gate 8.5 wide for yard access with a truck
Yes, at those intervals on your posts, the wind doesn't stand a chance...lol
@@digitalorgy3784 Wow, that is a sturdy build for sure.
who sells the brackets?
now u can fit that boat👍
Yes Frank, it fit just right in there and i'm actually in the process of extending this by another 6 feet to accommodate two trailers so I can get the county off my back...lol
How do you attach a 90 degree corner with those brackets?
Unfortunately they don't make a bracket that can wrap around a 90 degree corner and still give you a place to screw the bracket to the wood but you could modify some existing brackets like the one in this link www.lowes.com/pd/Simpson-Strong-Tie-2-3-8-in-Pipe-Grip-Tie/1002623566 by extending one side, doesn't matter which one, so that you have a space to screw unto the wood support. You could also use a 4x4 in the corner, so the pickets have a mounting surface or install two galvanized posts about 1.5 feet from the corner so that the support 2x4's can butt up to each other and provide the same picket mounting surface.
Thank u CZcams university
Ummm I hope Home Depot has to fence brackets
Thanks 4 making life a lil' mo' easy
Home Depot has a bracket but it doesn't look like the one i'm using in this video. You can find similar brackets on Amazon through the link I provided in the description of the video.
where did you get the brakcets for the metal to wood
Liz, I put the link for the brackets under the description of the video...Click more and you'll see the link!
Looks great! Thanks for sharing! How many bags of concrete per post hole?
Thank you Scott and it works out to be around 1.5 bags depending how deep you make your hole.
Can you use the same post as a corner post?
Yes Carlos you can! You'll need a different type bracket so that your support boards can run in opposite directions.
www.lowes.com/pd/WAP-OZ-FULL-WRAP-Hot-Dipped-Galvanized-Steel-Fence-Mounting-Bracket/1000440269
Your link has a 2 3/8 diameter post with a clamp that fits 1 7/8 pipe. Is that correct?
Thanks for the heads up Gary and I went ahead and corrected the link and here is the right one... amzn.to/35a0EEs
This is how a see a lot of the commercial privacy fences being built and it seems superior to 4x4 posts... The gal posts are lighter and seem easier to handle
Yes Taylor, using galvanized posts will last longer and will give you a better structure all together. Also, you never have to worry about digging up the posts to replace them.
Yeah wher did you buy thos brackets
Cruss, I got them at Lowe's website because they don't carry them at the store. You can get them delivered to the store or your house for free. Here's the link for them!
www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-Gray-Metal-Steel-Fence-Wood-Post-Adaptor/50254767
Educational and impressive…. Might you tell me what size auger bit diameter you used? And can you use a smaller bit and increase the diameter of the hole?
Thank you and I used an 8" auger bit and yes, you can use a 6" but you'll need to scrape the sides down to make it bigger.
@@MannyFontes1968 thanks for the reply
I don't understand. How can a smaller bit make a bigger hole?
Do you think that I can use this same concept to make a 6' to 7' horizontal fence instead of vertical?
Yes Jessica, you can use any amount of spacing for the post to accommodate your design of fencing.
Horizontal fencing is nice, but boards will shrink a bit and there will be a big gap. My neighbor has a fence like that and now we can see to the other side. Unless you don't care much about privacy.
@@BAKERHUSKIE that is true RG and some people use a third picket to overlap the joint between pickets to help reduce the shrinkage when the fence is installed vertically. I don't know that this option would work on a horizontal fence.
Jessica Ramos: If i understand what you're saying, I've seen horizontal fences that I really liked. I had considered doing a horizontal fence when I replaced the back portion of our fence recently. I used the same process as Manny - galvanized posts set in concrete. I also used three rails, which I always recommend. My workaround for boards needing to be replaced in a horizontal fence was simply going to be way more involved than I had the funds, time, or energy to do. I figured i would need to do the following: 1) use square tubing (I like 3" square tubing with 1/8" walls) 2) weld "channels" on each side of the posts which would allow me to slide horizontal boards down into the channel. I got the idea from other horizontal fences I'd seen -- also "CreteFence" uses this approach. Their vertical posts have grooves running down the sides. 3) I was going to go with cedar lap and gap boards. Using that type of board, there would be no gaps between the boards. Then, if the bottom board ever rotted out, all I'd have to do would be cut it away, allow the other boards to slide down (since they're in channels, they wouldn't need to be screwed or nailed in place) and add a new board to the top.
After literally months (or maybe even years) of going back and forth on which design I wanted to go with, I finally just bit the bullet and did essentially the same technique described by Manny. I do have a couple of short videos showing the before and after of my fence, but Manny does a great job of describing the vertical process.
bro if i want to build a 27ft fence , how many inches i need to put the galvanized post in the ground ??
Okay, so i'm assuming you mean a 27ft. long fence, which would mean about almost 4 sections of fence. Depending where you live, like in the northern climate where you may have a deep frost, then I would say your posts should be at least 30 inches in the ground. Here in FL I can get away with 24 inches because I don't have to worry about the ground freezing enough that it might lift the concrete up.
where is part 2 to this? I look in your video and could not locate is it under a different name?
If you're still interested, Part 2 has been released and the title is almost the same.. lol
Should last a lot longer that 10-15 years. More like 40 years 👍
Well, I definitely like your optimism...
where do you get the posts and brackets?
You can pick the posts at Lowe's or Home Depot and the brackets on Lowe's website or on Amazon. I put the links under the video description above.
Wonderful video really appreciate it where would I get those brackets thank you
Thank you and you can pick up the brackets from the link in the description above and on Lowe's website. Thanks for watching!
I used my harbor freight predator auger today to start the project
@@peacefromraineydaze5289 let me know how it works out for you.
How do I keep the poles straight, since they’re not wood, while the cement sets?
You can use a 4x4 post level or a regular 2ft. or 4ft. level on two sides to get your post plumb. I usually check the plumb at least 2 times when the cement is setting.
Thank you for your response... one more question, I already have a few 6’ posts in the ground from previous owner chain fence and was wondering if I continued with the 6’ (2’ in ground) poles, do you think this it can hold the 6’ planks and still be sturdy or would you recommend I replace with 8’ poles for the 6’ planks?
@@triceychaundiva800 Sure no problem! If the original metal posts are in fact 2' in the ground with a concrete base, then you should have no issues either installing planks or pickets on your wood framing.
What Is the diameter of your posts? How long are the posts
The posts are 2 3/8 in. diameter and 8 ft. long. and thanks for watching...
I'm thinking of trying to take down an old chain link fence and use those existing fence posts for a taller wooden fence... if that'd be possible. Looking for ideas on how to do it, lol. If I have to slip taller pipes over the existing posts, I think I might as well set those properly and just replace the whole lot. :/
You can for sure replace the whole lot but they do make extension pieces that can over the old metal posts that may save you a lot of added labor...lol Unless the existing posts are off plumb, then I would look into doing it the way I mentioned b/c new metal posts are not so cheap anymore...$26 to $28 a pop...
@@MannyFontes1968 This guy basically made wooden fence posts into big clothespins to slip over the existing chain link and zip tie to the existing posts! SCARY!
czcams.com/video/vWRvxrvtycM/video.html
This guy's video has been the best I've seen so far--and he saved money by making his own metal brackets.
czcams.com/video/qcgKIF0Fr4A/video.html
Good job ,where did you buy the posts and brackets ??
Thank you and the posts were from Lowe's and the brackets I ordered online...below the description I added a link..
What do I use if I want my fence boards mounted horizontally? Yours are mounted vertically.
If you want your fence boards or pickets mounted horizontally, you'll need to install your support framing vertically and evenly spaced for the length of your horizontal boards.
Manny's How To Workshop Yes but I’m wondering if this bracket would work for vertical support framing. Or are there any other options out there? I’ve been looking but no luck.
@@TheMultisportGeek You could use this bracket but you'd have to flatten the bended part in order to do so. I would use the bracket in this link to mount your support boards vertically. amzn.to/30VSgWL Also, you would need to use a 2x6 PT so that you would have enough of a nailing or screwing surface for your horizontal boards.
Code is 46 inch dug holes. Because of weather' Cement will rise making the fence fall.
Scrap to Cash, that would be the case if you lived in a frost freeze zone. Here in central Florida, we don't have that issue so 24" is the norm here.
Frost depth is just for frost. Depth is also a concern of wind shear against fence. A tall air tight fence needs to have a depth and volume of concrete to give the needed stability under heavy winds like hurricane in Florida
Where do u get the brackets
I bought some of them at Lowe's and ordered others from Amazon. The link is in the description above.
Metal posts shift the same as 4x4 posts. The fence will tilt before the 4x4 would rot.
Vince, if you live in a frost freeze climate, then that maybe the case but here in central Florida, we don't have that issue. If you're on a budget then 4x4 PT posts are your best bet.
Do you have any solution?
Sorry for the bother how much did they charge you to resurvey the property line
Rafael, my neighbor had it done so I don't how much she paid but typically it costs between $200-500 depending where you live. I also used the original survey that was done on my house when I bought it to locate the property lines.
Why do you need gravel for steel posts?
The gravel wasn't necessarily for the metal posts but to help the concrete set up better because here in FL we have a high water table.
What diameter did you make your holes?
Armando, between 7 to 8 inches!
What do you charge hourly for your expertise...i could use your help
As a handyman, my labor rate is $30 an hour Eric.
Do you have to put 3 boards running across or is 2 ok
Joe, for a 6' fence, I would recommend at least 3 so the pickets won't sag in the middle. Even if you raised and lowered the top and bottom rail, the pickets if 6' tall, would start to curl in either direction.
2 or 3 boards what's the difference
@@joeolvera1 2 will make the fence weaker after only a few years and 3 will make it stronger and will last 10 to 15 years easily.
@@MannyFontes1968 thank you
Are you happy with the sturdiness of the posts? I do like the design and from what I have seen wooden posts are not a good option.
Absolutely Brant and these metal post will not warp from the sun's heat or rot from moisture after years in the ground.
Where’s the link for part 2?
The link for part is at 7:25 in the video...
Where can I find the brackets
Roman, I put a link under the description for it. Just click "show more" to see the link...
What diameter post did you use?
I used 2 3/8 inch galvanized metal chain link fence post...
Anybody have any suggestions for 4x4 wood posts and chain link
Joey, 4x4's are not usually used with chain link fencing but I suppose you could use it if you're not worried about the fence being taught, meaning really tight and no sag.
@@MannyFontes1968 wife saw it on pinterest. I already got 14 4x4x10 in the ground 42 inches cuz if frost line. We live in Jackson mi.
@@joeyyounkin1328 If you put them in concrete at that depth, then you should be okay but if you try to stretch the chain link with a puller, the 4x4's can bend slightly and become out of plumb.
@@MannyFontes1968 would chainlink be ok with t posts?
@@jesusa1328 yes, you can use chain-link on these posts and they will work just fine. You'll have to use different brackets though that are made for chain-link use.
What is the diameter of the hole per post?
It came out to be anywhere from 7 to 8 inches wide...
How much are the pickets?
Arnel, they cost $1.72 each at Lowes...
What diameter are the post holes?
Moe, they are between 6- 8 inches in diameter. I used a manual post hole digger to make them.
How tall are your pickets
6 feet tall...
does cement really only needs 20 minutes and you can put the fence up
There are cement that have a fast dry time that will allow you to start building on them but I like to use the one that sets mostly within a day before mounting the brackets and wood framing.
@@MannyFontes1968 I can't remember the one you were using in the video but I think if I remember right it's the same one that I use just takes me 20 minutes and then I start hanging fence... But I do it as a job so I'm in more of a hurry I guess
@@moderngunguy3666 Yeah I use the brand name Sakrete that sets in about 6 hours and has a work time of up to 45 minutes. Yeah, I can see where you would need to have a quicker set time. I'm semi-retired so I take my time when I do these jobs.
What's the brand of brackets you used and where did you get them?
Ski, they are galvanized and I got them at Lowe's but only at their online store. They don't actually carry them at the store but you can get free delivery to your home or you can pick them up at your local store.
@@MannyFontes1968 Thank you sir ,I'm re doing my fence this way and was looking for the right bracket. Search ova!
damn where's part 2
It's coming, I promise! Right now that area is occupied with a trailer and work has been really busy for me.
You can get these post adapters from Home Depot for about $4 each.
Yeah the original ones that I got were from Lowe's and I think they were about the same price.
@@MannyFontes1968 awesome video, saved me a ton of time. I’m building a fence across a HUGE oak tree. Roots everywhere and not place to sink a 4x4 but I can sink a 2 3/8 metal rod!
@@urbanlumberjack thank you and that is great to hear. I did another video on that exact issue of trying to set posts around tree roots by using another product from Lowe's called a Speed Post...czcams.com/video/_TeVn_KVQgQ/video.html
Hi Manny. I am a woman. Do you think I can set the posts myself?
kapersad1, you sure can and an easier way to do it, is to just pour your mixed concrete in the hole and then take the pole and push it down the center of the hole until you hit bottom, ensuring that it lines up with your line string at the bottom. Once the concrete begins to set, you can use your level to plumb it on both sides. I hope this helps you!
I'm not Manny, but I can say that setting the posts is man's work. Stick to cooking or doing laundry.
@@thormatt2963 Mr. Thor Matt..in a perfect world..yes setting posts is "Men's Work"..but sometimes "ya just have to do it your darn self" for whatever reason!..as a female I've set many a post..😉..(grew up on a farm..or while my husband was working long hours)..then I went into the house to cook and clean😝..occassionally race off to have have my manicure repaired! 😀
Did you have to go any legal routes to reclaim your two feet? How much is a survey?
I didn't have to go the legal route on this one because I had a good neighbor but on my right, I have an A-hole landlord who said that if I want my foot back, then I can replace the fence myself even though the fence is his. I'll have to get him for a zoning violation through the county code enforcement department. Depending where you live, a property survey can cost between $200 to $500.
@@MannyFontes1968 Being a good Neighbor is a good thing... 👍🏼
@@unspecifiedvee2876 Yes, she was really cool about it and we have been good neighbors for 19 years now.
Can someone tell me what keeps those metal brackets from just sliding down that galvenized post?
Barbara, the bracket bolts tighten against the post and holds it up. You can tighten them very tight. You fast forward to 3:08 you can see how they secure the clamp to the post.
@@MannyFontes1968 Thanks for your quick reply. Exactly what I needed to know.
👍👍👍👍
What is the post diameter?
Jack, it is 2 3/8 inches....
Manny's How To Workshop thank you!
How long are your galvanized pipes???
Joral, the galvanized posts are 8 feet long...
So the nice side of the fence is going to face the neighbor?
Yes Oscar and that is the norm but as the owner of the fence, you can choose which way the pickets face...
The fence was set up correctly. If he built it with the railing exposed on the neighbor's side it's a security issue as someone can use the railing to easily climb over the fence.
@@mmcneil67 I saw people climbing either side easily in a 6 ft tall fence so not a security issue at all
Screwing the wood straight into the post is way better and cost efficient
Cubanmofo, you could save a little bit of money but the brackets are less than $2 a piece and trying to screw directly onto the post would have its own challenges.
Wondering if you asked your neighbor if you could tie on to their fence? I know it makes it more sturdy but some neighbors wont let you. Just saying.
Jeffrey, I spoke to her before I started and she was cool with it. Actually, my fence is holding hers up because her nephew put in the 2 and half sections in the back and they were already sagging in my direction after six months.😂
Fantastic!
Today, there's just no reason to use ROUND posts when there are POSTMASTER POSTS now. By eliminating the need for BRACKETS, they end up being cheaper. At .120" thickness, they are TWICE as thick as 16 gauge steel.
They will last 50 YEARS and create a THINNER fence structure that is only the thickness of its metal thicker than your stringers (2x4) and whatever pickets you use, bypassing the extra thickness you get from metal posts behind the stringers. They also are the EASIEST to conceal via a SINGLE BOARD, as opposed to boxing in round pipes. Their wind rating is higher also at 70 mph.
Yes, now a days, there are many options in building a privacy fence so it's just a matter of preference for the installer. In my opinion, a complete cost estimate would have to be done in order to see the better option.
@@MannyFontes1968 Using Home Depot figures, 2 3/8" posts (8') are $16.70 in qty. buys, then you need the 3 brackets to attach the stringers, using Simpson Strong Tie for $2.11 ea. making a total of $23.03.
(7.5') Postmaster posts are $19.48 in qty, and require no brackets for stringer attachment, so are $3.55 less per post...