When I worked for Fastenal we sold a "beveler" which was an incredible tool for welding, you could make super clean bevel joints, problem was metal shops didn't see the cost benefit to such an expensive piece of kit when they could just use a grinder and get a close enough result. These are amazing tools.
Very useful piece of kit. I would start the radius with an angle grinder for sure to extend the life of the bit as I would imagine it will wear out from where it meets the corner of the metal.
Well I learned something and I'm OLD. Never thought there would be a router bit for metal, where was this 50 years ago, it would have saved a lot of filing.. LOL.. Peace
olenick 7734 we've used table & chopsaws & routers on plenty of aluminum to cut extrusions & weld repaired turbine engine parts. Routing steel is a new one on me! Seems like some kind of cutting fluid would make things last longer. Peace partner.
Your best bet with this bit is to set the depth higher and take multiple passes. Say your total depth of cut is 1/8". Set the depth to 1/32" and make continuous pass while keep load on the tool. Then drop another 1/32" and continue until full depth of cut is reached (total of 4 passes). The way you were cutting you are continually varying the load on the tool, causing it to change temperatures which will cause premature failure. Constant load in key with feed and speed. Depth will vary based on material but look at the finish of the cut. Is it smooth or faceted? Hot or cool to the touch? Does it require more or less feed pressure?
They also make diamond bits for stones like granite. Shouldn't us be using some oil with your metal bit? I would think some oil would reduce the friction a little.
Michael Mantion I tried using a little Oil but it didn’t seem to make a difference, carbide likes flood coolant or none at all. Seems to not have dulled at all!
I was wanting to know how cut a groove 3/4 " wide and 3/16" deep around the perimeter of a 1" Steel plate for catching grease,making a homemade griddle.
All tool steel meant to cut, can cut metal just because it says wood router doesn’t necessarily mean it’s exclusively for wood. Specially if you’re in a bind, and you just so happen to have router bits, whether tool steel or carbide. Just take into account deciding to cut metal with such, feeds and speeds. I’ve used a 3/16” Bosch round over router, to carve radiused edges on both sides of 3/8” thick x 1 1/2” wide x 12” long aluminum flat bar. As a matter of fact, I used a 1/2” Bondhaus Allen key and grinding wheel as a lathe tool cutter in a radius cutting jig bout, 20 years ago. It’s practically true for any tool, known to have been heat treated and tempered, to just about match tool steel process, so. It’s not like it’s anything new. Though, this is an interesting router but.
True, but most bits, even carbide do not like cutting steel at greater than 2000 rpm, especially without coolant. Try cutting steel on a flatbed router with no coolant ;-) and the lowest speed can go is 4000 RPM. And then running a milling center with aluminum or steel, at about 1500 to 2500 RPM, and the coolant runs out.... see how long yor bit lasts :-)
@@charlievisscher7427 That's where modding the the motor output comes in to play, (speed control, pulley's, gears, etc.) again, when in a bind, minding feeds and speeds, of course.
it probably will over time, but the cost of the tools that do this for metal are about $1,500-$2,500 which will buy quite a few routers! a decent quality router like a bosch should have pretty beefy bearings anyways so it should last a long time, but eventually it'll be toast, not sure what availability of parts or access to replacement bearings is as a comparison to getting a new router though either
It takes multiple passes in my opinion it can be way better they should go take notes from the cold cut saws and maybe make it out of the same materials no sparks also. Just needs a little more work. Price is high in my opinion a 14 cold cut saw blade is that price.
Impressive! I was wondering if it would be better to start with the bit higher so it took of less mental going the whole way around and then repeat while slowly lowering after each pass until you reach your desired edge?
Is there a Semi-Easy way to round off a square welders table? My Gramps built it for a welding class back in the late 1930s I want to round off the sharp corners I am tired of getting whacked as I pass by it. Its pretty thick steel
You guys seem really knowledgeable. I’ve tried looking online to find a way to route a hole in some 1/4 inch cold rolled steel. The steel is part of a door frame holding a 500 pound door. I’m trying to route a cavity for the deadbolt. Do you have any advice? I’m not able to remove it and work at it at a good angle. Whatever I do I have to hold the tool sideways and stand up as I route the whole.
Did you find a solution to your project yet? I’m trying to route a hole in a commercial metal door to make it bigger to fit a larger lock set without filing my life away at it…
Only time will tell, the bit was cutting really well throughout this one, so I think it will continue to cut Wel for a while. My biggest concern is hitting a hard spot in a piece of steel and having it chip, but it’s definitely worth the time savings for me to replace it!
Use standard wood router bits and a standard router for Cast iron or Aluminum (More easily machined than stainless steel/carbon steel/plate steel/mild steel). A "Carbide burr bit" on a small die grinder (~20k rpm), mounted in a portable drill-press/angle stand for getting the desired angle, can chamfer most steels, except it wont come with that nice round profile.
I hope you keep up with how many base plates you get radiused with one bit and let us know how long it lasted. It's pretty freakin awesome tho
When I worked for Fastenal we sold a "beveler" which was an incredible tool for welding, you could make super clean bevel joints, problem was metal shops didn't see the cost benefit to such an expensive piece of kit when they could just use a grinder and get a close enough result. These are amazing tools.
would it do stainless?
Very useful piece of kit. I would start the radius with an angle grinder for sure to extend the life of the bit as I would imagine it will wear out from where it meets the corner of the metal.
Well I learned something and I'm OLD. Never thought there would be a router bit for metal, where was this 50 years ago, it would have saved a lot of filing.. LOL.. Peace
olenick 7734 it’s going to save me so much time!!! Love innovation!
olenick 7734 we've used table & chopsaws & routers on plenty of aluminum to cut extrusions & weld repaired turbine engine parts.
Routing steel is a new one on me! Seems like some kind of cutting fluid would make things last longer.
Peace partner.
Router is crying . ‘‘ I am not made for this , pls stop ‘’
Your best bet with this bit is to set the depth higher and take multiple passes. Say your total depth of cut is 1/8". Set the depth to 1/32" and make continuous pass while keep load on the tool. Then drop another 1/32" and continue until full depth of cut is reached (total of 4 passes). The way you were cutting you are continually varying the load on the tool, causing it to change temperatures which will cause premature failure. Constant load in key with feed and speed. Depth will vary based on material but look at the finish of the cut. Is it smooth or faceted? Hot or cool to the touch? Does it require more or less feed pressure?
GJ!! I didn't know you could do this!
That really works great and saves you sanding disks. Always interesting/ entertaining. Stay well, my friend.
Cool, thanks for the info Chris! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
This is very cool
Probably would last long if you put some cutting oil down on the edge first. Nifty bit. I might try to find one.
Huh that's neat.
No burs. There you go
They also make diamond bits for stones like granite. Shouldn't us be using some oil with your metal bit? I would think some oil would reduce the friction a little.
Michael Mantion I tried using a little
Oil but it didn’t seem to make a difference, carbide likes flood coolant or none at all. Seems to not have dulled at all!
I was wanting to know how cut a groove 3/4 " wide and 3/16" deep around the perimeter of a 1" Steel plate for catching grease,making a homemade griddle.
Milling machine would be the way to do that
@@MakeEverything youtube video
"DIY bbq griddle 1" thick 125 lbs of steel"
This guy makes a griddle exactly how I want.
All tool steel meant to cut, can cut metal just because it says wood router doesn’t necessarily mean it’s exclusively for wood. Specially if you’re in a bind, and you just so happen to have router bits, whether tool steel or carbide. Just take into account deciding to cut metal with such, feeds and speeds. I’ve used a 3/16” Bosch round over router, to carve radiused edges on both sides of 3/8” thick x 1 1/2” wide x 12” long aluminum flat bar. As a matter of fact, I used a 1/2” Bondhaus Allen key and grinding wheel as a lathe tool cutter in a radius cutting jig bout, 20 years ago. It’s practically true for any tool, known to have been heat treated and tempered, to just about match tool steel process, so. It’s not like it’s anything new. Though, this is an interesting router but.
True, but most bits, even carbide do not like cutting steel at greater than 2000 rpm, especially without coolant. Try cutting steel on a flatbed router with no coolant ;-) and the lowest speed can go is 4000 RPM. And then running a milling center with aluminum or steel, at about 1500 to 2500 RPM, and the coolant runs out.... see how long yor bit lasts :-)
@@charlievisscher7427 That's where modding the the motor output comes in to play, (speed control, pulley's, gears, etc.) again, when in a bind, minding feeds and speeds, of course.
you're comparing aluminum to steel...
Almost 100k bro. Good work
Isnt this going to kill the bearings in the router? Steel working machines are usually a bit more rigid than a handheld router
it probably will over time, but the cost of the tools that do this for metal are about $1,500-$2,500 which will buy quite a few routers! a decent quality router like a bosch should have pretty beefy bearings anyways so it should last a long time, but eventually it'll be toast, not sure what availability of parts or access to replacement bearings is as a comparison to getting a new router though either
It takes multiple passes in my opinion it can be way better they should go take notes from the cold cut saws and maybe make it out of the same materials no sparks also. Just needs a little more work. Price is high in my opinion a 14 cold cut saw blade is that price.
Where are your safety glasses?
Regular carbide router bits work for aluminum no problem.
Thanks for shareing🥀
I’ll take a 4.5” grinder with a flap disc please
Impressive! I was wondering if it would be better to start with the bit higher so it took of less mental going the whole way around and then repeat while slowly lowering after each pass until you reach your desired edge?
could this bit essentially round over a weld? Let's say 2 pieces of plate welded 90deg
I'm ended up here, in search of a way to "surface rout" lettering. Say 1-3/4" x 1/4 to half inch wide or so.
Hi. Why did you use a guide bushing? Isn't the point of the bearing to guide the bit?
The guide bushing is for the depth of cut vertically, the bearing is to guide the cut horizontally.
Is there a Semi-Easy way to round off a square welders table? My Gramps built it for a welding class back in the late 1930s I want to round off the sharp corners I am tired of getting whacked as I pass by it. Its pretty thick steel
Use a file or a belt sander.
You could use a cutting torch or grinder . A porta band makes quick work of plate too! Good luck
Hi where can I get that bushing and spacer please 🙏?
I want to make a v groove on the plate assembled in a machine.Can you suggest something for working on steel ?
going to purchase one but 100 dollars is very expensive hopefully i can find one cheaper on the Internet
Do you have a part number?
I'm confused where did you buy the bit and how do I buy it
Do they make them in 1/2 inch
You guys seem really knowledgeable. I’ve tried looking online to find a way to route a hole in some 1/4 inch cold rolled steel. The steel is part of a door frame holding a 500 pound door. I’m trying to route a cavity for the deadbolt. Do you have any advice? I’m not able to remove it and work at it at a good angle. Whatever I do I have to hold the tool sideways and stand up as I route the whole.
Did you find a solution to your project yet? I’m trying to route a hole in a commercial metal door to make it bigger to fit a larger lock set without filing my life away at it…
Are the link above setup to were you get some of the $?
Yes, its in the description! Its nice to be able to support folks who share cool things with us!
Cool bit and good video. How many of those bases to do think you could realistically do with one bit?
Only time will tell, the bit was cutting really well throughout this one, so I think it will continue to cut Wel for a while. My biggest concern is hitting a hard spot in a piece of steel and having it chip, but it’s definitely worth the time savings for me to replace it!
You need a business acct and healthcare license to buy that bit from Amazon.
What would be a good way to get a nice round-over on steel without a bit like this?
Matthew Patterson I usually use a flap disc on the grinder but it makes much more of a mess and takes much longer if you really want a uniform edge
I would say a good sharp bastard file would do pretty well in not much time at all
Use standard wood router bits and a standard router for Cast iron or Aluminum (More easily machined than stainless steel/carbon steel/plate steel/mild steel). A "Carbide burr bit" on a small die grinder (~20k rpm), mounted in a portable drill-press/angle stand for getting the desired angle, can chamfer most steels, except it wont come with that nice round profile.
So, where do you get the bushing? It's not on Pferds web site nor amazon.
flick22601 the other item number I listed has the bushing on if. It’s part 25149 hope that helps
See ya round! lol.
Price or part number???
Thank you. Been looking for this - I knew it had to exist :). Is there a minimum horse power that the machine needs to have?
matanya klau beli di mana
My adventure with woodworking started with Woodglut.