Installing a Three Phase Distribution Board (Part 1 of 2) Electricians 3 Phase DB Installation
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- Installing a Three Phase Distribution Board (Part 1 of 2) Electricians 3 Phase DB Installation
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#Electrician #ThreePhaseDB #SparksLife #3Phase - Věda a technologie
Enjoyed that, some good info. Looking forward to part 2. Not many UK 3 phase videos on youtube
Thanks!
No exactly, very very few people do commercial and industrial jobs and do videos on them.
Yeah it’s true!
@@artisanelectrics I think its probably by in large because the majority of commercial and industrial jobs are done by the really big contractors such as NG Bailey and SPIE so the smaller local guys like you rarely get those types of calls or have no interest in them because domestic customers are more widely available and easier to do business with.
Very good video I like how you go through everything and even showing the use of the regs 👏
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Jordan, but I have to say the music is doing my head in. Not sure if it's too loud...
Ok thanks will take that on board.
thanks for the video. much appreciated. lots of info to take in!
Thanks!
Cheers mate, really helpful
great choice on the backing music!
Thanks!
Great video Jordan. 👍
Thanks!
Great job again like always
Thanks!
Great video yet again.
And that cable splicer looks a great tool.
Must get one..
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Thanks a lot!
@@artisanelectrics
Jordan...
Where did you purchase that cable cutter..??
Check the Links in the description of the video
I always fit the base of the gland to the enclosure first, that way you can get a really good tight grip on the lock nut and gland, then feed the cable through the gland and screw on the 2nd part of the gland tightening the armoured to the gland and also because the first part of the gland is tight it won’t spin when tightening the second part. It’s a good method when doing multiple glands as you can fit the glands to the gland plate before installing to the enclosure
It's nice to see something about three phase. I live in Finland and all detached houses and most new flats have a three phase supply. My cooker and sauna heater are both fed with three phases. There is no neutral wire coming to the house though, only the three phases - that took some understanding.
Yeah that’s quite unusual here! Thanks for sharing!
@Richard Bevan that's a TT net... Earthing must done by your house
@@torstenbeutinger3093 protective earth is one thing, but no neutral? In residential applications it’s entirely possible for the phases to be wildly out of balance, which means that a significant current would be flowing into your earthing pen. Like dozens of amps.
it is common in Belgium, Malaysia, Finland and Norway as far as I am aware. It works out at 127V per phase wrt ground, it is the same that I have for the time being, but am waiting to be upgrade to N3x400V
Thanks for this video
Most welcome
Nice job mate
Thanks!
Nice neat work. Those earth nuts are a god send 👌🏼
Keep the great videos coming, I’m learning a lot from them.
Thanks Billy! Great to hear you’re enjoying the videos! Don’t forget to share with someone else who might enjoy them!
Best kit in the box is my sturdy pencil sharpener !!!
Always use 4 pole isolators, especially in TT installs must isolate neutral.
Good job! What kind of pencils do you use?
Staedtler HB nothing fancy light enough to stick behind my ear !
Great vid once again. Thanks for sharing. 🐵
Thanks!
I like how you remembered about the one click from that lady on a previous video. That's how I found out and I remember that every time.
Thanks! 😁
Surely more than one click makes no difference as the torque setting is not cumulative. If it it clicks at 2.4 nm once the second time is still 2.4.
@@TooOldToScrum it's not the torque that will change, it's the affect the clicks have on the torque screwdriver. Keep clicking the screwdriver at the set torque setting will slacken the insides such as the spring.
@@alexgreenman2289 Got it.
So if I have a panel with a 100 terminations the torque setting will be different at the last one ? or my torque screwdriver will need calibrating/chucking in the bin after ???? 🤷♂️🤷♂️
Thanks
You’re welcome!
perfect, Im currently trying to fix the electricity in my newly built house
Jordan is the right one for the 😏 current job😁
When I do boards , I like to prep as much as possible before hand , ie I would of drilled my 20 or 25 mm hole out for the armoured before putting the board up , and I still use pencils 😁
Great yeah I should have planned better and drilled the top hole before, but it’s always easier in hindsight! Gotta love a good old pencil! 😂
Artisan: No one puts his pencil behind
Thomas Nagy: Hold on...
😂😂😂
Nice video
Thank you Richard
It's safer not to break the neutral in a three-phase system unless you need to (e.g. a TT system). In a TN system it is better not breaking it as any failure with early make/late break on the neutral will cause voltages approaching 400V to go through any single phase loads. I would definitely have gone for the triple pole main switch with a bolted neutral for safety reasons if it was me.
Interesting thanks
What do you mean by early make late break
@@artisanelectrics you will find that the neutral pole is designed to close before the phase poles, and is also designed to open after the phase poles. This is to help mitigate the dangers of the neutral being disconnected whilst the phases remain connected. As I said, in a TN system it's safer to have a bolted neutral rather than switching it.
@@artisanelectrics The sequences in which the switched conductors (Phase or Neutral) are disconnected or reconnected by the switch mechanism
@@Mike_5 Great comments here, the danger of a floating neutral on a there phase install is something everyone should be aware of. Seen the damage it can cause.
Another good vid and the board looks to be in an awquard space. Probably would have changed the Eaton DB for a larger Schneider one and gone out in 6mm XLPE 90 degree thermosetting. Is the 3 phase socket not 32A? With it being a socket i would have gone for a 32A MCB to give it overload protection and then the breaker is also rated for the switchgear. Especially if its a switched socket type. I know its a fixed load they are plugging in for now but there is nothing to stop anyone in the future from plugging anything else in. For 3 phase ive always wired in to number 2 for each. Im not fully sure but do you still require metal fastenings if its running outside? Maybe across doorways but im not sure?. Looks good as aways! Keep it up 😁👍
Thanks!
Interesting video - good work. Comment - the background music was a bit distracting - too loud behind your voice.
Thanks will tone it down for the next one
Hi John ward did this dB, that is the only reason I know the neutral incomer has an adapter piece to take the incoming switch
i think i would have been tempted to replace that existing board with a larger one, it just gets a bit cluttered, and ideally incorporated the existing single phase board circuits in there, i know its probably down to their budget and how long you can have the power off before they start to moan.
Also i do get a bit frustrated seeing people going on about torque settings, several years ago no body give a crap, now its a big thing, if its so important why not torque down socket terminals or switch terminals, rather than only breakers and isolators, they are all electrical connections so they should all be treated the same.
Good comments, there was no room to install a larger board otherwise I would have done that. Torque settings are important to comply with manufacturers instructions and ensure tight connections I’m not sure if socket manufacturers like MK give torque settings for sockets and switches I doubt it
the torque settings are required because they're not getting torqued down properly because they're not getting installed properly but we make that a requirement and it fixes all the problems right? I wondered what was up with the expanding board as well. I would have put in a larger 3-phase board keeping the single phase board that way you don't have multiple phases in the same box or doing a complete rewire. but most importantly not having to stick big bright orange stickers on every light switch, I think the sticker craze is a little bit crazy over there on that side of the pond.
@@imark7777777 yeah your right we are sticker crazy, some even put stickers on when theres no need to, there are lots of electricians that will put a 230v sticker on the fuse board, why i dont know, they dont bother with every socket, switch or light but think its necessary for a fuse board.
you will see a few on youtube going above the requirements, which is fine, but then they will get the basics wrong, i find that very funny.
@@gadgetman36 that's right there are no torque settings, and that's only because fires are starting in the fuse board, and not the accessories.
And rather than deal with the cause, knob heads with limp wrists, they try and deal with the symptoms.
@@acelectricalsecurity it’s not just loose wires, it’s also too tight wires. Both are bad (if for slightly different reasons). We all had to develop that Feel sometime. I know I’ve snapped more than a few (especially smaller) screws and bolts as well as otherwise damaged equipment. Pretty sure I’ve never left anything loose, but that’s me.
Especially for the first years of learning to use things, a torque spec and a torque wrench are of immense help. Given the consequences of getting it wrong - you’re not even burning *your own* house down, but someone else’s - I am 100% fine with this reg.
One thing that is weird though is that they specify a precise torque and not an allowable range. That especially leads to absolutely bonkers situations where there are like 4 or 5 subtly different torques required on various bits of a board - while in reality they’re probably all fine at somewhere in the middle.
Great video Jordan. Did you you know screwfix do earthing nuts for about £6 a pair.Amazon seem very expensive at £16+ for same.
Yeah you’re spot on!
What manufacturer cable do you use because I use Doncaster cable and there SWA doesn't strip that easy
Not sure what brand it is it just says Basec on it
neutral in number 1 as its classed as one mcb, any additional mcb's would go into 2,3,ect
Thanks for the videos Jordan. Are ELCB breakers better for 3 phase boards than RCBO breakers
ELCB stands for Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker which is what they are called in the USA. Here in the UK we call them RCD residual current device. RCBO is different as it contains both the functions of an RCD/ELCB and an MCB or miniature circuit breaker in other words it gives both over current protection and earth leakage protection.
@@artisanelectrics Thanks for your reply. A lot of You tubers do not reply to questions.
Isn't there a mini busbar in the kit to address the neutral / 4 pole issue ?
"John Ward" did one of the same brand, but used it as a single pole and neutral Isolator, with 2 blanks for L2 and L
I’d always put the neutral (and earth) in terminal 2 if my three phase mcb was in 1,2,3. Just my preference but always done it like that.
Thanks yeah I vary between 1&2
How many wire are there all together to make a dub board
Great video, but now they have 3 boards in two rooms, could you not have used the existing 3 phase board or replaced it for the new circuits?
Yeah it’s not ideal but there wasn’t room to enlarge the existing boards and no spare ways so no choice!
Hi Jordan.... might of been mentioned or I might be wrong here but it looks like you moved up from table 4D4A to table 4D2B for your voltage drop. Should you not of gone down to table 4D4B for the correct voltage drop figures ??? 🤷♂️🤷♂️ And I’m sure for the Earthing nuts it states to use the serrated side to remove the paint and then turn around to the smooth side when fitting ??? Good vid though mate 👍👍
How comes you didnt just install a normal consumer unit,could you please help im struggling understanding 3 phase boards
You didn't look 'phased' by that job whatsoever 😂😂😂
Joker! 🧀
@@artisanelectrics Too good an opportunity to pass up 😉
🤭 He's got a lot of potential 😆
Can you let me know where you got that little yellow stripper? (That sounds so wrong 😂).
Great video 👍🏼
4 pole isolators for TT installations as all live conductors must be switched for isolation. TN 3P systems the neutral should not be switched for isolation, I can’t remember why🥴.
Thanks! Is there a reg for that?
Hi, Yes there’s a reg, It’s under isolation. I’m sure It’s to do with the neutral not being reliable earthed.
Cheers
Neutral on a TPN goes to 2. If only so the next person has to stop and think “why’s he done that”. Not that it makes much difference because the next bloke always seem to just throw his N in to any old terminal.
Too true😅
i Think N not switched bc when measurment is not clear you have a live eg on a motor. so you can sure you meas. over N.
anyone know what that yellow tool is called?
Good work done, but waiting for part 2.Please how can i get the book that you were using i'm in ghana.
That book is only relevant in the UK
Great videos, How do you size the fly lead earth?
Thanks Jonesy, I usually try to match the size of the conductor in the cable, so in this case I installed 6mm.
If relied apon as a cpc the adiabatic equation should be used to sizes the fly lead
If the SWA is used as purely as a protective measure against damage the fly lead should be sized to satisfy adequate fault protection and thermal effects
Any book suggestions??
SPDs are mandatory on industrial and commercial jobs, only optional with risk assessment on domestic.
👍
Did you have to fit an SPD seeing as it was a commercial job? You either do the calculations or fit one in that scenario
No SPD required on this one as very little electronic equipment on site
Artisan Electrics doesn’t work like that for commercial properties. Only for single dwelling ( domestic ) commercial you either do the calculation and see if you need one or just fit one . Check out reg 443.4
Hi, was thinking of getting the codebreaker book any good? Would you do a quick review? 👍
The codebreaker book is brilliant it has practically every observation you can think of and the recommended coding. Might be worth highlighting the common ones so that you're not spending ages looking for the right wording or regulation number.
Yes it’s excellent. Good idea I will add it to the list!
I noticed in the codebreaker book recently that they code no RDC protection for câbles buried less than 50mm in walls as a code 2 and that surprised me as I’ve always put it as code 3
@@artisanelectrics That's partly the reason for the introduction of RCD's and Part P.
Back in 2004, a MP's daughter was electrocuted and died when a fixing screw used to mount a drying rack, penetrated a cable beneath the surface, the cable was only installed 10mm from the surface.
Artisan Electrics how you gonna know 😂
Am I wrong in thinking the regs say regarding metallic clips for cables ect is only above suspended ceilings?
Yes you’re wrong I’m afraid. Fire resistant clipping is now required throughout all installations to prevent premature collapse in the event of a fire.
@@artisanelectrics thank you. I thought so and are using metal fittings. but heard a differing opinion regarding wording in the regs. Great vids by the way.
Hi Jordan ! Nice video mate ! Quick heads up are you sure you have 70 degree thermoplastic cable ? Most SWA cable you get from wholesalers is 90 degree thermosetting unless you specify it ? Regardless it just means you have more allowable CCC hope this helps you in future 👍🏻 keep up good work love the videos 👍🏻
Yeah it’s actually LSF I specified that.
You will find that the terminations are NOT suitable for 90 degree operation, and therefore you should NOT be using the thermosetting cable ratings.
What terminations?
@@artisanelectrics I was simply pointing out that you were correct not to use the 90 degree tables as although the cable is rated to run at 90 degrees, the terminations at either end of the cable are almost certainly not.
Artisan Electrics sorry mate I was half watching half on Instagram so I didn’t hear everything 😂 just saw the 70 and thought I could help haha ! I should really listen 😂
Is it not 5% of the actual voltage reading?
Jordan, who is Heath Robinson ? One of your Apprentices ?
Heath Robinson refers to a British term that describes overly complicated and humorous contraptions or machines designed to perform simple tasks. These contraptions are characterized by their absurd complexity, using an excessive number of convoluted and often impractical components to achieve a straightforward goal. The term "Heath Robinson" is often used to describe situations or solutions that are needlessly complicated when a simpler approach would suffice. It's akin to the American term "Rube Goldberg," which has a similar meaning. Heath Robinson's work was primarily in cartoons and illustrations, depicting these whimsical and impractical inventions, and he became known for this unique style of humor.
The use of 4-Pole (for 3Ph installation) or 2-Pole (for 1Ph installation) isolator I strongly believe is a good practice because you can perform easily insulation resistance tests without having to remove the neutral conductor, you can easily isolate neutral leakage currents (e.g. appliance fault or fault in an SPD when it reaches its end of life) without tripping the main RCCB (300mA Type S) of the electrical installation.
I agree! Thanks for your comment!
462.2 Every circuit shall be provided with isolation means for all live conductors, except as detailed in regulation 461.2
Thanks
is this a diy 3 phase tutorial ? :))
Yeah mate. Clearly this is a diy tutorial 🤣. Its not that hard. Learn the three colours and you're good to go
Not mark by R-Y-B???
When doing your cable size calcs you mentioned 230V. Should that not be 400V in this case?
Miss Take Not correct 400v 3 phase 400 x0.05= 20 volts guessing here mind😊
Has piers morgan ever been mistaken for an electrician?
Funny
I dont know its it's my OCD but the earth bar should be where the natural bar is and vice versa anyone else have any different opinions?
Why?
Doesn’t look the best of walls to fit a db back to back. I would stick the neutral in 1. When u fit the next 3 mcb down I would do that as 4. 4 pole isolation is always a lot better
Thanks, yeah I used 1 as well. Wall was pretty solid.
Better unless there is a UPS in place, like say in a hospital
write in 7671 book 3% and 5 % . voltage drop 6.9 volts max on lights and other is 11.5 volts max never have to work it out again
Just use a banjo with a brass nut and bolt, those earthing nuts are meant for when you glanding into plastic boxes really, no real benefit using them when your going into metal, infact more awkward due to metal lip on the DB.
Thanks but I would disagree I think they ate for metal boxes as they have the teeth to grip into the metal to make a good connection, plastic boxes don’t need earthing so you don’t need a banjo. As long as the armouring is earthed at one end it’s fine if you have a separate cpc within the cable
@@artisanelectrics.Those earthing nuts were developed primarily with plastic boxes/enclosures in mind. You can of course use them on metal but its quite wasteful and unnecessary.
For instance where you might have IP65 Rotary isolators mounted outside with SWAs in and out they are ideal for maintaining the earth continuity of armouring through to the load. In that situation Banjos were always a pain as you either have to drill your IP65 isolator to bolt through or bend them up and nut and bolt a fly lead between both Banjos neither option great, so the earthing nuts are a god send in those situations.
The teeth are there to bite into the plastic to prevent the glands from slipping.
132 Buckleup1000 useful info thanks!
Those piranha nuts been out for years
Swa storm glands are good and look neater than old fashion shrouds
Why the use of Sy cable?
Its flexible and braided so very durable
@@scratchblack Why not HO7? Nobody ever earths the braid on SY.
Nice video but please take the music of I can't hear you
Thank god thats England is an Island
Why?
Mic not working??
Looking forward to Part 2, hopefully there'll be a bit of testing in it.
Thanks! Yes there will! And two different testers!
@@artisanelectrics Well I know you already have a Fluke 1664 FC, I wonder what the other will be 🤔🤔🤔
How about discrimination? Socket rated 32A protected by 40A ?
Best do the 18th peter no such thing as discrimination think you mean selectivity
I agree with the socket and protective device statement though. I pull that up on EICR’s socket outlet rated at 32 A protected by C 40 MCB.....
If you had 80amp cut out would you put a 63a main switch or 100amp? And I've done 18th edition thank you
@@peterlewis1106 well u should of said selectively then
You not Aloud to use SY Flex’s as mains voltage it’s not recognise In the Regs it’s alone used as a control cable
Yes you are that’s a common misconception.
You can use sy, but it should be put in departures.
ian drew bloody hell, they let you loose with mains voltage and you can’t even spell basic words 😮
Jason Lee well Jason I may have trouble with spelling specially when I am dyslexic but I am a very good electrician so f##k off
What’s that brick for 😂
They made some sort of shelf in the cupboard out of a board and some bricks, I removed it temporarily while I did the work.
Eughh that 3 phase board, use schneider with isobar all day long
How sad to lose the gas ovens...
Yeah
need a better cam
What camera would you recommend?
Love watching your videos, but could you please cut out the background music.
Yeah I have done since that video
Really interested in the content but, the audio is so bad and made even worse with the sound effects overlay that it becomes worthless. Better to take it down from CZcams
I always fit the base of the gland to the enclosure first, that way you can get a really good tight grip on the lock nut and gland, then feed the cable through the gland and screw on the 2nd part of the gland tightening the armoured to the gland and also because the first part of the gland is tight it won’t spin when tightening the second part. It’s a good method when doing multiple glands as you can fit the glands to the gland plate before installing to the enclosure