I Was Wrong About Cutting New Saw Teeth A Better Jig
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
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WOW! there is a better way to cut new saw teeth. Whether cutting new teeth on a saw or recutting saw teeth. this is the way I would go now. It Is a very easy Way To make a jig and cut new saw teeth. and it is surprisingly fast to make
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So a strange thing happened today, I had an unusual amount of activity on one of my videos :)
James, thank you so much for your praise on my saw tooth spacing guide I really appreciate the recognition and kind words. I'm so glad you liked it and it inspired you to have a go at making your own, as you've found it works wonderfully.
Stay tuned for my revised version coming soon-ish :)
All the best
Dan.
Sweet. Looking forward to seeing it! Love your work. If you ever want to colab just let me know.
Just a thought. Cut the slot in your scrap wood to the depth you want the teeth-cuts to be. Attach a couple more pieces of broken hacksaw blade to the underside of your jig so that they protrude beyond the front of your jig. Now you have a depth stop, and all it cost you was more of the broken hacksaw blade and a little epoxy to attach the pieces to your jig.
I like the epoxy/glue idea. That way the depth stop pieces will come off before they can dull the hacksaw itself.
Also, make the slot in the wood block as deep as you need it for the largest saw teeth you ever need to make then drill a couple of pilot holes down from the top of the block to meet that slot. A couple of blunt ended screws driven down through those pilots & you have an adjustable depth jig with depth stop as you’ve already described.
You can stick a piece of wood with double sided tape on the right side of the hacksaw blade that will work as a depth stop
You are correct. I just watched his video earlier today and his jig is drop dead gorgeous. Didn't think I would ever need anything like what he made. Your idea is a lot more accessible to my needs and skill level.
I dont see myself cutting new teeth any time soon and i still found this crazy simple jig so entertaining to watch
Glue the piece of the blade to the end of the wooden block and you can adjust the distance with a screw. Attach another blade to the side of the saw blade to adjust the depth.
Exact same thought I had.
If the hacksaw piece is glued in, you could adjust by just screwing the screw in and out.
I was thinking the same thing, drill an undersized screw hole right through and either tap the hole for a bolt, or if you don't have any taps for thread cutting just screwing a bolt through will probably self-tap. The bolt head can be at the other end to keep the cutting end tidier, and then just turn the bolt until test cuts confirm the bolt is protruding the correct distance (test over a reasonable length, so for example 50 teeth will magnify any inaccuracy by a multiple of ten compared to testing over just five teeth).
For smaller teeth could cut a shallow mortise and then just shim out for larger teeth
Glad I found this…just getting ready to order some spring steel from McMaster-Carr, and try my hand at a couple of backsaws. 👍🏼
Omg I've been struggling to cut saw teeth by drawing the teeth on on the saw, hacking then filing. I also cut a whole saw with just a file and it took so long and wasn't consistent, or very sharp, it has been so frustrating. I'm so happy to see this jig. (this is the fist comment of mine on your channel that isn't, Comment down below)
how about use the jig to score the line to say 1/32 and then come back with the clamps on the hack saw blade to cut final depth? Great little jig. Love the channel by the way. Thanks.
Third idea for a depth stop: Strip of wood on the jig-side of the hacksaw frame that rides on the top of the jig when down to depth.
Okay, I went and looked at Dan's tool. I'd have to build a display for something that beyond beautiful. Scary pretty.
Epoxy the heck saw piece in, and screw is free from holding duty but adjustable for different tpi. Maybe use a 6-32 or 8-32 machine thread screw so 1 turn is 1/32 of an inch.
Sometimes simpler is the best solution, right? Love this one. The hacksaw blade does dull over time... Draw a depth line? Maybe clamping a straight piece of wood along the blade to warn you about depth ??
I loved seeing both methods. Never thought to cut my own teeth before, but I think making my own saw would be pretty cool!
I really want to modify a panel saw to a more aggressive 4 tpi, so I’ll def try that with this at some point (I couldn’t with the last one)
I saw Dan’s video a while ago and I thought his jig was brilliant. I also knew I never would (or could) make anything even close to to it…even the box he made for the jig was gorgeous. James’ version is much more approachable for the home workshop. My first thought is that, rather than make the jig adjustable, I’d make one dedicated to a specific size with an indexing plate and saw guide plate spaced with appropriate shim stock. For high tpi count maybe a cheap feeler gauge set would provide the necessary spacers (not worked anything out yet).
Your first thought is right on. Unless someone's going into retoothing saws for fun and profit or into making custom saws to order it's not worth making more than one at a time for the specific TPI. Save each one just in case, but they'll probably not be needed again unless loaned out to a friend,
Thanks for the praise George I appreciate it. I keep meaning to post a video demonstrating the first guide I made which was much more like you mentioned, simple to make and fixed at a certain TPI. When I get some spare time I'll upload it. I'm currently working on a revised version that I hope to make a small batch of.
Cheers
Dan.
@@thewoodmandan842 That sounds great Dan, I’ll look out for the video.
Now I KNOW I can cut new saw teeth! That ridiculously simple jig will make the process (relatively) easy. Thanks a lot, James!
You could epoxy a strip of scrap hardwood to the hack saw blade to create a depth stop. The downside is you would have to make a new one for each replacement blade as they get dull.
Although, since it will have a short lifespan, it might not matter if it's hardwood. You might be able to just cut up some paint stirrers or yard sticks to get your stock more easily.
Weird. I just ran across thewoodmandan video earlier today and passed it on to your earlier video which I also just found today [i guess it's "Re-Toothing Day"?] and to someone else's saw retoothing video I found today. Now I just stumbled across this update of yours and you opened up another way to skin the retoothing cat. For example, where you drill the hole in the end of the wooden block for the hacksaw blade, washer and screw I think you could make it much more adjustable if the blade had a hole in it just large enough for the screw head to fit through and you drilled a counter bore in the end just deep enough for back of the round head/washer head screw head to bottom out against so the reference surface of the screw head to be zeroed out flush with the hacksaw blade you've epoxied or otherwise affixed to the end of the jig. Then, depending on how snugly the screw is in its hole you might be able to adjust the TPI/PPI spacing w/o washers. There are, however, all sorts of different thickness of brass washers available from machine tool suppliers to hobby shops. You could use the blades from a sacrificed HF&T feeler gauge or two if you wanted to. Just a few quick, top of the head thoughts. (Thinking of new ways to do things. It works every time its really tried.)
Nice jig. I wouldn't worry about a depth stop. As long as you have some sort of near depth marking and get close - a stick in the saw vise, level the blade, level the stick at depth, file, touch the stick, your done, rinse n repeat.
After all, many of the ways to fashion depth stop would raise the plate in the vise and higher the plate, higher the vibration.
A bigger hacksaw scrap would allow you to fix it higher up ,the screw clear of the actual cutting hacksaw,that would allow you to use perfect thicknesses of spacers without the screw needing to be filed if they too are fixed higher up or wrapped around front and back,I am accumulating saws with hardened teeth in my job as a carpenter that I will be able to re use thanks to you and my angle grinder
This was a great video for a number of reasons. I always wonder whether videos, even yours, showing projects - especially something like building a workbench or a bandsaw or other complicated tools are actually reproducible. You validated someone else's idea on how to do something. You've shown that this particular wheel has already been invented and that it's quite round enough to do the job so I don't have to reinvent it. Now I have a method of retoothing that nearly toothless handsaw I have hanging on the wall. Thank you.
I loved the video last week and it's hilarious how much simpler this one is!
I recently cut new teeth on an old saw using Paul Seller's method. Before I got done, the wooden guide block had completely fallen apart, and the teeth were uneven. I will have to see about making one of these jigs.
Thank you James for the mention of my first video. The number of views and comments have caught me by surprise. I have a cheapish back saw with hardened teeth where a lot of the teeth are broken out. I am thinking about grinding the teeth off and re-cutting new teeth. Is that worth doing or is the blade metal not suitable? Could be my 2nd video.
Take care, Harrance.
Jack saws have hardened teeth so they can not be easily cut and will ruin most files. Generally those blades are considered disposable.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I understand about the hardened teeth. I was more thinking about if I grind the teeth off, down to the "un-hardened" metal, would this be too soft to hold an edge for sawing. I have been using pieces of jack saw blade as card scrapers for ages. The files cut this metal well.
With a hack saw blade the whole thing is hardened. Not just the teeth. At least the ones I have worked with. Maybe some don't
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I think you have misunderstood my comment. I am wondering about a cheap Tenon Saw with hardened teeth. I have been using cut up pieces of these as card scrapers for years and they work great. The scrap I used in my video was one of these. I am thinking if the hardened teeth are removed and new teeth filed in, would the underlying steel be hard enough to hold an edge enough to make it a useful tool. I have not seen any opinions either way about it so I was wondering about your thoughts on it.
Oh yeah definitely. The same steel that would be under that is the exact same still you'll find in pretty much any saw out there. It won't last quite as long as the hardened teeth but you can sharpen it easily.
Brilliant. Reminds me of a box joint cutting jig.
Damn you, now I want to build a box-joint hand saw/plane. But I will have to finish a few other projects before I can get to that. On the other hand, it should be possible to mark them out quickly by making an appropriate stack of snap-off knife blades and spacers that you just tap against the end-grain, the depth line you sort out by putting a ruler up against the mating board flushed with the end. I suppose good spacing is about 1.75 saw kerfs wider than your favorite narrow chisel.
Welp, that works hilariously well. Heck maybe you could use some double sided tape or epoxy or .... something, to attach the scrap hacksaw blade to the cutting blade (on the other side of the blade from the jig so it doesn't mess with spacing) to act as a depth-stop. Though just some masking tape as a visual guide would probably do the trick if you slowed down on that last stroke a bit. Now I just need to decide if I want to buy a plate or file down an old one to try making the coarse rip saw I've been wanting...
Wow... That's brilliant, James!!! 😮
Fantastic work! Thanks a bunch for the tip!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
you can add a depth-stop by attaching a piece of tempered steel on each side of the slot... then the saw will stop when it gets there. vary the depth of the cut by varying the depth of the slot!
Hi, James, after watching your videeeo and Harrance's I think i prefer his. The finest pitch yours can handle is limited by the size of the screw head. It looks like his is not. I plan to build both and see which works better in real use. Stu
I'm in the (very off and on) process of retoothing a saw, and I have a cut that matches yours on my middle finger.... I will probably be attempting to freehand it again, because that's what I've done before. I also haven't ever seen a hacksaw used to mark the teeth before, so that's a new one on me, too. (in my grand old experience of watching a few youtube videos...) I use a fine file to make the marks.
Depth stop is easy, fit two blades into the hacksaw, one to cut and one ground flat the desired depth back from the cutting teeth. Maybe enlarge the mounting holes at the end of the guide blade just a tiny amount ('a gnat's todger' was the official length we worked to for these kind of micro adjustments when I was an engineering apprentice oh so very many years ago) so that it's the cutting blade that's tensioned when you tighten the hacksaw (if the guide blade is too loose or falls out you've grossly over estimated the gnat's todger, do it again and celebrate that you've learned something about gnat's todgers... You could tell also your friends about this, but I'd suggest you don't!). Bit of a fiddle to make in the first instance, but I'd guess the guide blade would last forever since it's not receiving any significance wear. The cutting jig is so simple that it's brilliant! Making the jig adjustable sounds cool, but it's so quick to make, maybe just write the TPI on the sides and make new jigs as required for different TPIs.
Why not make a double bladed kerfing plane? Have one blade upside for the guide. Having the blades recessed into the wood would keep them parallel and chatter free and you could use it as your depth stop for the cuts. Make different spaced/depth ones for different PPIs.
I mean this one is nice but it seems more likely to let the saw hop around that the other one. It also requires you being coordinated enough to use both hands and still drive the saw accurately. Though your three c clamp jig was admittedly unwieldy, it left your second hand free to help keep everything stable. Plus it has a depth stop.
Great second round, fun and really good jig!
That's cool, unless you are the cat! LOL. I love that jig.
Hahah sweet, time to get a couple blued steel drywall taping knives to cut up to experiment with making fine teeth with with that jig.
Thank you for mentioning this! I've been thinking of making a DIY dovetail saw, and where I live in Canada the price to get the blue tempered steel alone, with shipping approaches the cost of a Veritas dovetail saw... well half of one anyway. But these things are readily available, and cheap.
@@AllanMacMillan
Hahah no problem and thank Rob Rozaieski’s blog about making saws about that! I’ve been specifically looking for 10-14”/25-35cm ones made from 1095 for hopefully the best results.
Simply... it's Columbus' egg! Wonderful!
Just brilliantly simple, thanks
Mind blown, great idea!!
Can't you still use something C-clamped to the blade as the depth stop? At that point it would also not matter how thick it was
the clamps would hit the jig, but I guess you could space them further apart and just not take a full stroke.
Do you think you could go as far as 16TPI? Just thinking for 2 inches of really fine teeth at the front of a dovetail saw, then 13tpi for the rest
I have sharpened down to 18 tpi. If you have really good eyesight and a good magnifier you can get down to around 20. But for anything smaller than 14 I really don't suggest making the front teeth smaller. There really isn't a big benefit to that.
@WoodByWrightHowTo good eye sight? Darn I'm screwed haha
Cheers love the look of this jig 😁
Quite simple and efficient
Just in case, the description missing links (only titles for now) ;) And huge thanks for mentioning my channel again
Woops. Just fixed it!
HA! Excellent! Went and watched Dan's video. Like this one better. His just seemed a bit over the top.
Thanks for the feed back Mark, I'm working on a revised version which hopefully should be more user friendly. 👍
Brilliant! Thanks...
Hello, Mr. Wright;
While recovering from covid I watched this.
I found it interesting but a bit confusing.
Because of what I know about saws it doesn't look like a hacksaw actually cuts saw teeth.
I have sharpened hand saws (long ago) using a 3-sided file.
Do you file the teeth to shape & sharp after setting the spacing with the hacksaw?
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
This doesn't actually cut the taste it just creates a Nick in the blade that you can then come back and file the teeth in. But that Nick allows you to have even spacing between the teeth.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo
Thank you Mr. Wright, so very much for your kind reply.
I came back to rewatch this one as I'm trying to restore an old saw.
It turns out I have 6 hand saws, 1 pull, 1 hard point, & FOUR rip?
Clearly i need a crosscut & I may refile 1 to crosscut.
*If* I can do it w/out recutting the teeth.
Tho I've 1 saw that really needs refinishing & sharpening.
It has 4-1/2(?) ppi so I think I should refile it to crosscut.
Since it need more work than any of the others.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
Could make ot out of aluminum
American ingenuity!
Now is perfect! Thanks James!
thanks
Did James lose his blue tape sponsor? I suggest using a non blue tape on the saw blade to mark the depth.
Now we know why Emeril Lagasse says "Bam!"
lol yup
Did Sarah give you permission to change your mind?
,a cool video keep up the great content.. Thank you…..
Goes to show how easy it is to overthink something lol I'm sure your friend who makes all those brass parts for you could make a nicer version of the same concept that doesn't look like it belongs in a museum.
Really nice idea..
Nice
Clamp an old hacksaw blade to the free side of the hacksaw you are using to cut and voila - depth stop.
the clamps would hit the jig, but I guess you could space them further apart and just not take a full stroke.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo small clamps at the ends would be preferable. Another improvement that occurred to me after a second thought you might get away with grinding of a consistent amount from the depth stop blade and mount it in the same holders as the cutting blade.
Wow that is cool
Cool. I like it. I love the simple answers.
the links arent htere yet... just letting you know
just fixed it
Comment down below
Nice!
Less is more
Comment Comment Comment
Couldn't you just put colored tape on your saw blade to act as a depth guide?
Of course, but then you'd have to think about which colour was best, and life is hard enough as it is.
@@ricos1497 is boiled linseed oil a tape color?
@@jgo5707 I'd like to think so. Alternatively you could use iron on white oak veneer finished with BLO instead of tape.
@@ricos1497 too complex, ill just finish my tape with BLO. That should work
first
We have a new winner!
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