How to repair/replace an outdoor frost-free faucet
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 7. 08. 2017
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My outside water tap was dripping for about a year and finally, water started squiring out from around the handle. After shutting off the water and removing the inner parts, I noticed the seal was damaged. The folks at the hardware store informed me that it's best to replace the unit instead of trying to fix it. I bought a new one, completely uninstalled the old one and hooked up the new tap. It's a pretty easy process and when you can do it yourself, you can save yourself some money. - Jak na to + styl
Thank you so much! My faucet was leaking from the top valve & the handle. Also leaking from the spigot. Basically, the entire thing was bad! Watched your video, went to Home Depot, spent $29, then had the new faucet in and working less than 10 minutes. -53 yr old single female-
I kinda think that hardware store ripped you off... BUT, on the plus side, I had no idea how to replace one of those faucets and now I do. So at least it was a learning experience for me. Thanks a lot for the vid!
Great video! My wife and I are going through this same problem now. Totally DIY-able and save us a few bucks. Thank You!
Man, that looks just like our one right now! Spraying everywhere. Thanks for the video, now I know what to do.
I seen that in new homes they leave a loop on the pex before connecting to the faucet. That loop allows you to pull the faucet out of the house and replace it and then you just push it back inside the wall. No need to get inside the basement or crawl space or to break the Sheetrock.
That would be nice but Iâm sure the plumber wasnât smart enough to do that. He had hot water running to an outside faucet so there is no telling what I will find when it comes to plumbing.
Thank you for adding this! My interior connections on faucets in my home are completely inaccessible and I bet that's the secret - just pull it all out through the interior! Going to test it.
Thank you so much this has been very helpful! Other videos I watched could not solve my problem as easily.
I have a very similar outdoor faucet (like the one you replaced) that has a metal decal stating "Anderson Barrows" made in Taiwan, however, it appears to be no longer made. The hard rubber/neoprene flat washer that has failed measures 0.475" in diameter but I was unable to find this size online and assume a 1/2" (0.500) flat washer will suffice. A current manufacturer of a very similar frost free outdoor faucet is made by B & K, "104-403 8" WALL HYDRANT". It does seem most of these faucets are now of the 'anti-siphon' type which is probably much safer as they prevent the backflow of water from a connected hose and possibly toxic chemicals back into one's drinking water supply.
I just fixed mine today, cost me $2.00 and took me 1/2 hr from the time I took it apart, bought the washer and put it all together.
This helped a lot....I have one spare from the front of the house that is not used since I installed a front porch....will swap out the old one as it was damaged by roofing contractors years ago !
Great job... very clearly recorded so we could see exactly what you were doing.. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback! Glad I could help!
"It's not worth finding the replacement parts" == "We'll make a lot more money if you buy the whole shebang"
Thank you... first video showing the same type spigot that I have. I thought I was going to break it unscrewing that core.
Thank you for posting this. I had a pretty steady leak at the faucet. Once I removed the stem, and replaced and tightened everything it seemed to have stopped the leak for now. My problem, the rubber gasket at the end of the stem is definitely failing. Lowes and Amazon do not carry the stem size I need. (American Valve model). Does anyone know if American Valve will sell directly to the consumer?
Out of all the videos I watched this one made it appear easy!
excellent video, just what I was looking for ! Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to record this. I'm in a no freeze area so if I can access the back end (I'm in a manufactured home), I'll remove the whole thing and replace it with straight pipe and a regular hose bib.
Iâm in a manufactured home as well. What is the best way to find the connection through all the belly wrapping?
@@EvergreenFilmsAZ When I looked at the wrapping directly under the faucet there was already a cut in it with duct tape sealing the cut. I ripped off the tape, replaced the faucet, then used all-weather duct tape to seal the cut back up.
I have absolutely not access to replace the whole thing so im just going to buy the whole kit and take the stem and washer out and hope for the best.
Good idea for a plan A.
If you can't access the faucet connection inside the house or if it is a tough job for whatever reason, you can buy another frost-free faucet of the same length, remove its stem, and use it to replace the broken stem.
As others have noted, it is possible in theory to replace just the worn o-ring or gasket, but I had trouble finding one of the exact same dimensions.
You have a better chance of hitting the lotto than finding the same stem.
@@modifiedbear6178 I should buy a ticket then
@@leswhynin913 your better bet is to save that money and call a plumber.
@@modifiedbear6178 a good idea for some, but I managed to fix that months ago and no problems
@@leswhynin913 must have been a newer one. I'm in the same boat now but I can't find one with the same shape end.
Thank you for making a video it is really takes a while.
My new local TrueValue sold me a replacement kit with all the bits that go bad over the years. It was 1/3 the cost of the whole unit.
Hello all. I had the exact same problem as you did, but with the gushing hole and leaking siphon cap. I managed to find a "Repair Kit for Anti-Siphon Faucets" at Home Hardware (in Canada). Turns out the washer cap and washer at the end of the stem were missing, and the siphon cap washer was leaking as well. I had to flush the line for about five seconds and the missing washer and screw came out. Used all the parts in the kit to replace the washer cap assembly (metal collar, washers, screw), as well as the two metal washers and rubber washer at the faucet end, as well as a new faucet handle. Also replaced the entire siphon cap and internal parts. Put the stem back in, tightened everything and put the water back on - success! No more leaks or spraying fountains of water, and I now have enough water pressure to run my pressure washer from this faucet. Total cost was CDN $13.99 plus some time checking out videos like this and some other sites with instructions. As my faucet is soldered directly to the water pipe, I can't easily replace this entire unit. So glad I was able to find this repair kit, otherwise I would need to get someone to remove and replace everything. Hopefully this will last for a while, I have had this faucet in place for at least five years or more.
Happy to hear you solved the issue!! All the best!
Great video. Have the same issue only the basement is drywalled in and the builder did not leave an access portal to work from the inside..
Ugggg... I feel your pain...
Same with our house. Wish the builder would think ahead a little.
Unfortunately, the builders don't care too much about the buyer after the sale.
Many thanks for taking time to share.A+
Hii great page âș Keep it up!
Perfect video. Only I don't have pex. I have copper and my faucet on the outside is plastered on. So I gotta do some actually plumbing by cutting the copper pipe, hammer the old one out and then install new 12" pipe and solder the new conection.
This is an extremely helpful video!
Add a plastic shoot to prevent water dripping trough the wall when you close it, with out hose.
I have a faucet that's been on the house for probably 40 years that is similar to this and it started leaking.
I loosed everything but can't get the stem out. I put pressure on it "lefty loosey" and it won't budge.
I'm afraid I'll break something and then I'm stuck. Any ideas?
Help after I removed the handle and the big nut I can't get the valve out. Looks like you put pliers on the handle stem moved it up and down and then unscrewed it out. I can't get it loose. Any sugestions?
Nice Job. I'll just have to figure out what kind I have. Thanks.
Nice video... I think I can pull this off.
Great video !! I have a similar problem and need to replace my entire faucet. However I cannot get into the house on the inside as you could. Would it be possible to just turn the faucet body from the outside?
It might be possible, but not recommended. If you were to turn the faucet off the inside plumbing, the inside pipe would likely spring out of alignment with the faucet, making it impossible to thread the new faucet into the house piping. That is not even considering the impossibility to check for a leak at that connection.
Same here, we can't get to the pipe from the inside since the pipes are in between walls. Does anybody know how to fix a pipe leaking in between walls? Would I have to tear down part of the walls to fix it or is there another way?
@@kittylin2169 You likely would need to cut into the sheetrock!! (Giant pain in the arse.)
wow what is that connector that connects the pipe to the faucet? Ive never seen one of those. I've been using a sharkbite.
How do you take the air cap off the top to clean it out? That's where mine is leaking, suspect there's a small rock in there holding the valve open.
It simply pries off.
Looks like your on the wall sprinkler is working just fine. If it ain't broken, don't fix it!
You most definitely got played by the sales guy at the store. Gaskets are a simple thing to replace.
Quite possible. Any idea of a supplier and are the gaskets generic? I wouldn't know what size to buy, or is it one-size fits all?
james hawkins yes dude sold me whole bunch of stuff....damnđđđ
DIY and SAVE yes, they are called bib washers and you can buy them in assorted packs. Also, you can get the rubber O-rings in assorted packs as well. I would try Ace Hardware, Lowe's excetera. If that doesn't work I know that hdsupplysolutions sells them. However there would be a slight charge for shipping. I have also seen them on Amazon.
I should think you could get the washers and O-rings at a local plumbing supply house in your fair city. Be sure to bring in the parts that are perished so they can be matched before you leave the store. At the very least, be able to tell the sales person who made the part that's broken or not working properly; a picture on your cell phone of the problem may also save the day. If one isn't nearby, Ace Hardware would probably have them, then HD (which I think is where you went for this video). I don't know that Lowe's carries much of that kind of stuff, which may be a regional thing. It might be available online, though, for any of these suppliers, as opposed to picking them up in-store. Another possibility is the store could order it in for you, saving you the shipping cost. Like everything else, check for the availability of parts BEFORE you begin this project. A few judicious phone calls can save you a lot of time ("Let your fingers do the walking through the Yellow Pages"). That's the other thing that cell phones are good for.
Thanks for the video. Iâve lived in 1956, in my house for 5 years. Since the house was built in 1956, Iâd just get the whole piece, too. Then I donât have to worry about some other part going bad.
You will rarely, if ever, have inside access to your outdoor faucets. You are very, very, very lucky.
And thats called stupidity from the engineer who designed the house, or owner who didnt add such access way. Well maybe after remodeling just to get access there, they know to do it in future..
@@Hellsong89
It really comes from people turning their basements into finished rooms. I think drywalled basement ceilings are a huge mistake. You can never access your plumbing/hvac
@@Hellsong89 I am a Professional Engineer. Engineers do not generally design houses, architects do. Many times architects create problems that Engineers must solve. Most likely a stupid contractor did not have the forethought to provide access to plumbing equipment.
@@DaDaDo661 They do make things called access panels.
@@ragedigital not commonly for access to the plumbing. The first guy is right. Contractors don't do a lot of the planning or give any thought to consequences of what they build.
Where did you take the back cover of your faucet
I wish I could unscrew a hose that quickly!!!
what is the name of the box where the faucet goes thanks I need I need to put it on the vinyl.
I have the exact same faucet. I am trying to replace the whole stem. However my stem is stuck and wont come out like yours easily did. I do not want to pull too much. Assume it could be buildup.
Any suggestions on what else to do?
I have the same problem. Stem turns until the faucet is all the way open then it stops. It wonât pull out.
excellent Video!ž, easy
I had an old-fashioned brass on copper line faucet (20 years old!) until we did the remodelling and constructor told me to âupgradeâ to this antifreeze valve. I did and now I am on the third one after 3 years, they keep leaking and breaking. Either I am very unlucky or this cheap crap nowadays cant stand a winter without falling. I do winterize them as required but the material used to make them is just total crap. I wish I stayed with my old brass on copper instead of fancy-dupancy antifreeze on plastic.
Agreed 100%. Thanks for sharing!
I'm in the same boat. I thought I was doing a good thing by replacing two outside hose bibs (one of which I think had been there since the house was built in 1925) with frost free. Crazy expensive, although I did have new shut off valves in my basement installed as well. It's been a few years and I hate both of them and now one's leaking. I should've just done the new shut off valves and fixed the leak in the one faucet instead of replacing both. Ugh.
What do you do when the screw holding on the handle is rusted bad and stripped?
He had a good tip, angle the pipe, I had my pipe break 2 times bc of not doing this
Very helpful thank you
Any idea what makes these frost proof faucets not open? I suspect the internal valve is the issue but I cant get water at all.
I have the same problem. I'm going to remove the long stem and inspect it, after watching this video.
I see you changed it out with one that dosen't have a vacuum check does it still meet code ?
Code schmode.
Exact same thing happening to my faucet. I feel like a plumber now but Iâll have to put this to the test.
Thanks for educating âwe the people who are not plumbersâ on this simple DIY at home. đ
BTW a plumber quoted me 600 bucks đđ»
Awesome news. I'm glad this video could help you out and save you some money.
Good video of capable repair. I get the impression from commenters they're somewhat reluctant to accept technical information from somewhat who couldn't successfully find washers and do a simple faucet washer repair.
I have seen videos were people replace the washer.
I took the inside part out of the new faucet, and installed it into the old faucet. Was fixed in 5 mins.
Yes itâs easy to change the gaskets on faucets but those particular gaskets he was pointing to can be hard to find (notice the gasket he needed wasnât the usual round type.) I too had to replace my whole faucet so that I didnât have to run all over the place or order parts for it. Plus you also have time constraints sometimes And need to fix it quickly. Only thing that I see in particular with this video is is the new faucet a frost free one? It looks differentâŠ?
It IS frost free because the valve extends well back into the wall as evidenced by the long stem.
did u have to replace it again? the homedepot one i have to replace ever 1-2 years
Not yet.... it's still working great this spring.
i have same type of plastic pipe going to my faucet, I'm thinking it probably has that type connector to the valve, but I don't have access to it unless i open a portion of the wall. .........I guess.
Love your video, Home Depot doesn't have a lot of parts to repair these faucets. I have better luck at an Ace Store.
Thank you so much đ
My spigot front doesn't come off so I can't get my stem out! What do I do?
My outside faucet which is the newer frost proof type has NO water coming out. I have turned the water supply on and off but still no water. my other outside faucet works fine so the one now working must have some type of part which needs to be replaced. How can i figure out what the cause is and try to fix it? Good video...i learned a lot not being very handy.
That's a odd one. Maybe the faucet is not actually opening when you turn the handle. Does it feel like it's opening and closing or is it really loose? Without removing the unit it might be had to tell.
What is that tan piece at the top
WHERE DID YOU GET THAT REPLACEMENT FAUCET. I NEED ONE LIKE IT AND CAN'T FIND ONE
I bought mine at Home Depot, but here is a similar on on Amazon: amzn.to/48l91u9
replacing the whole thing compared to the cost of a small rubber washer/gasket ? thats crazy!
I suspect he got sold...you can get the assorted rubber replacement parts for cheap at ACE, Home Depot, etc.
the $20 or even $30 is way cheaper than calling a plumber.
THANKS
I do Not Have that type of inset frost free outer faucet . Mine is the older type outdoor faucet leaking towards the wall outside and down the new hoses !
To Turn off of water: is inside
and inset in behind the gyproc wall board
we found strange between the studs ? I thought if it leaks in the wall studs area , no insulation . Which there is no catch guard inset ( similar to your outside one nicely fitted & made plastic or stainless steel metal â to surround it ? Some you see here were I live are on the laundry room hose faucets .
I went to a plumbing store supplier ( plumbers go to use ) to have a look see ! My out door faucets drip and leak tie a rag around . There is Vinyl siding I prefer to leave for now .( Although bc the alternate siding is cement board , with outdoor seal wrap some do themselves of that shiny foil wrapped replacement underneath .Available with a grant . )I would have to hire a contractor to do make a whole mess again as I replaced most of my windows to new one of sun protection , house is cool being near the ocean location too ! We do get a lot of rainy season only few days or weeks of snow a year on the west coast !
Is there a video to evaluate the source of the problem it could be from leaking outdoor faucet .
We are temperate weather here all year rare to go to freezing so I leave the whole hose on and lose on the ground curled up !
Question: my water supply are plastic. This would be my 2nd year in my home built in 2018. I noticed that when I the kids turn on the hose ? I notice drips of water in the basement. Not sure what's wrong, any advise?
It could just be condensation on the outside of the pipe. Are you in a humid environment or does it just happen on very hot days? Try leaving the outside faucet on outside but don't use the hose. This will keep pressure on the pipe and faucet and so condensation will build up as the water will be ambient temperature. If it leaks, then you'll need to replace joins or the faucet. If it doesn't leak, it's most likely condensation.
Good video
Do you have any tip in locating the inside part?
Yeah it's a bunch of bs to have to change out the entire hydrant especially when your basement is finished. My recommendation to those that have finish basements with pex waterlines is to go with a shark bite shut off valve. Shut off your water main go upto your copper water tree panel is what I call it where all your lines are connected to and cut the line with a pex cutter and push your shark bite shut off valve on both ends it work fantastic and shut your water off to that line before winter and throw a splitter with the two little tiny valves on it on the outside of the faucet so you don't lose water. Done and Done.
Once my basement is finished, I'll be in the same boat and have to order parts in since supply is limited here.
Thank you.
I don't have a valve that just shuts off the outside faucets. I have to shut off and drain the whole house water??
Yes, so make sure you have all the parts you need so you don't have to run out to the store half way through the job.
DIY and SAVE Too late. Lol. Got a spigot that was too short and had to run back to home Depot for a new one. Added 20 more minutes to the job but thanks to your video the rest went pretty easy.
Except my handle won't come off. Unscrewed the screen and then was able to unscrew the nut but I'm stuck there
Lowes sells a rebuild kit.
Perfect. Can you include the link? I cannot see it on lowes.ca. Thanks
great job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 22-25$ on ebay. entire proline assembly
It was an easy fix once I found the repair parts for the gasket at the inside tip of the valve...cost me 65 cents. Why replace the whole valve and possible tear holes in walls! Replacing grommets and gaskets is easy to do...
There is a comment about with newer homes the builder may leave the pex line a little longer so that you can pul out and unscrew and reattach a new faucet how would you know or ca you just replace the stem of the faucet
My faucet was soldered in place when the house was built. I will have to saw it off and re-solder it in or put in a shutoff screw on.
Yes
You shouldn't have had to do that if you had a leak in the rubber seals. Were you able to find any replacement parts?
Making me wish I had PEX and a screwed in unit, and not a 60 yr old spigot cemented into the block/brock wall lol.
That is a "pipe" as you call it bringing the inside water supply to the faucet? It looks like garden hose.
That appears to be an earlier version of PEX line...I could be wrong.
When turning water back on have the valve open and turn slowly on.
My faucet leaks at the stem only and the valve is open.
I believe you have the pitch to the waterline backwards, i.e., the supply line or at least the sill cock should pitch down to the outside so that when you turn off the water inside the house for the winter you can then open the valve outside and drain the remaining water out to help prevent freezing/bursting pipes in addition to the use of a frost free Silcock.
I believe he WAS advocating that the pitch be downward from the supply to the outside knob.
I went and bought all the parts and got ready to do it but apparently some asshat welded the copper pipe to the frost valve.
If you're lucky enough that the connection is threaded and not welded, and is easily accessible.
Teflon tape didn't help you in this application. The threads are not making the seal, it's the rubber gasket on your PEX adapter that makes the seal.
There's a lot of people who don't understand when tape and pipe dope are appropriate. Just trying to help.
Good to know. Thanks for sharing!
Go with 1/4 turn theyâre much easier to use!
I was just wondering if the made ball valves in wall hydrant versions like this. Do they?
The part you inserted into the wall from the outside looks nothing like the part you show inside the house.
Without a shut off valve for the faucet I will have to shut the water off to the whole house. With 6 in our household I had better have the part in hand to replace it quickly.
I wish I could replace mine that easily but itâs on the edge of the wall and the pipe is on the inside of a bedroom
The frost free faucets are 100% serviceable. Service kit it under 20$
I had a look but couldn't find these. Do you have a link so I feature this in a future video? I have another faucet with the same issue.
If you have one made by BK Mueller, you can just call them and they'll send you the entire cartridge with all the seals for free.
what do you do if your basement is finished??
Good question. Unfortunately, you might need to cut a hole in the drywall and put in a small access door or removable vent for future access.
Have you replaced any of the rubber seals first rather than replacing the whole hydrant?
They donât sale the stems at Home Depot or Loweâs. You have to go to a plumbing store. My basement is finished, so I canât even see the faucet from the inside.
I wish I had seen this sooner. You were lied to. YOu can purchase the rebuild kits easily from the manufacturer, includes the washers and spring and the entire collett piece.
Cheap too. PLus, you could have purchased that entire stem already built.
Live and learn. Put a little marine grease on the end threads too, very quiet after that.
Your replacement faucet lacks an anti-siphon valve (the beige cover is in the shot at 0:13). That violates code where I live -- and for good reason. Without that valve, water from the outside line can be sucked back into the water supply you use for cooking, drinking, and bathing. Not a good thing.
Correct. These valves are definitely becoming required and are recommended.
Ok Bud
Should have went to ace hardware, we have that oring⊠canât believe they told you to replace the whole thingâŠ
Kinda glad I did replace it. The new one is bulletproof.
This was not the way to fix this faucet. The manufacturer label was right inside the handle. You cans see it in the video The parts kit is inexpensive, and contains every single part you need. I purchased kits online for both my faucets and replacing the parts took literally 5 minutes and I have a perfect seal of everything. The kit even included the anti-siphon parts that you see on top of valve stem (tan cap). Also, the reason he was getting that much water leaking out was that the stem that the handle connects to was actually loose. you can see it clearly when he goes to remove it. it was already unscrewed. Had he simply screwed that back in and also tightened the packing nut that he removed, the leak would have been minimal. Finally, he bought a cheaper replacement faucet. Go for quality if you are going to replace it, and go with a non-China part that you will allow you to get parts in the future.
Good eye! It was loosened up because I spent 5 minuted fighting with it and didn't feel the need to add it to the video. I edited out the fighting and once I broke the screw, then I started again. Would love a link to quality parts. I don't have easy access here to the good stuff. Would you mind responding with a recommended product link? I'm going to need to replace it again soon and don't want to do it every 5 years. Thanks!!
yeah, luckily you could get to the inside of the faucet. What happens when there is no access and the inner faucet end is soldered to the interior piping (swearing ensues).... :(
Might have to install an access panel.
I am.putting a drain it under The home so I can empty it out before winter avoiding problems like this
Easy replacement, but where I'm from, codes require anti-siphon valves which you removed, but did not put back. Also, my "FUSAN" anti-siphon frost-free valve was replaced by a newer American Valve unit. American Valve says that they no longer support my older unit and therefore, the replacement parts rebuild kit is not available and I'll have to replace my whole unit, which is soldered into the copper piping behind it.
Thanks for sharing! Good to know.
Why are you worrying about code? Are you going to have an inspection? In the event you sell the house, I doubt that a home inspector would detect the freeze proof faucet that is non-compliant.
Pulled