Ford 300 4.9L EFI Simplification
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- čas přidán 19. 02. 2022
- I get a lot of questions about these trucks, from guys who are used to carbs and they think they want to throw away all the EFI to make their lives easier. Thats not necessary, and a LOT of what's under the hood can disappear. All modifications done to my truck in my state and county are legal and compliant, but YOU are responsible for what YOU do to your truck.
Consider this reference material, for entertainment purposes only, etc... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Wow! Cam, I just found your channel and am really appreciating your content. I have a 1995 F-150 extended cab short bed that I ordered new from Ford. I have had it since 1995. Theses are extremely reliable trucks and will last forever if you take care of them. Thanks for sharing! 👍
Very nicely done.
I have a 90 Bronco I6, 5 spd, 235/75R16 tires.
I like the idea of moving the air temperature sensor to the airbox.
Recently I recalibrated my throttle body, it seems to have made a difference in my mileage. I won't know till the next fillup.
Timing is at 15 degrees base.
Running stock injectors.
5w20 oil in a fresh rebuilt engine.
Lots of highway driving.
Keep us posted on your project.
Thanks an Blessings,
Ty!
Nice. I'll be revisiting this shortly. Treasure valley up here in Idaho will be getting rid of emissions testing in July of 2023.
My truck is a 70 with the 240 i6. Amazing how much more complicated things got under the hood over the years with basically the same engine. I’m not even sure what all that extra stuff accomplished other than making it harder to work on.
Everything I removed was FoMoCo's "last hurrah" at keeping the old inline platform emissions compliant. They only had Mass Air Flow capable 300s for ONE YEAR (1996). They couldn't meet fleet averages and the Essex 3.8 V6 was much better on fuel and "strong enough" for the base engine package.
I have the 96 4.9 with 5 speed. Removed exhaust from y pipe back installed 3” stainless with series 70 Flowmaster cats removed, O2 sensors reinstalled. 3:31 ring n pinion. She pulls a 5000 lb camper trailer perfect at 11-13 mpg. Daily driving is 17-23 mpg. So I don’t understand what your saying. She’s perfect. 290,000 original miles !
Exactly right. I have a 1990 Ford F150 4.9 liter. I had to change the head gasket so I had the head rebuilt and found ot was so much easier to work on 70 models which I drove until 2015. I would rather have a carburetor and not a serpentine belt and the fuel pump being in the gas tank, which I have to change one of them. (2 gas tanks). I wish mine was at least an 80s model.
If the time comes I don't have to take my truck to emissions I was thinking of going back to carburetor. But this is interesting I like it.
Here in Texas, I'm emissions exempt because of age, even though I'm in an emissions controlled county (Tarrant). It's nice having fuel injection and no emissions. Just a safety only test for $7.
I live in Washington State and the area where I live doesn't have emission testing. besides the truck is too old to require emission testing.
@@user-dp8gb9zu8vdon't remove the EGR tube if it's not broken. The exhaust will run to hot and cook a starter every winter.
I have the same truck just bought it then fixed all the oil leaks and the the i put it all back together it ran high intel and now it not getting fuel I can put it down the fuel electric fuel intake and It will start but you have to let the starter run and the truck will to for a couple seconds it has good fuel pressure but not to the motor I think do to a vacuum leak but I have 3 vacuum line I can’t find where they go let me know if you can help
Nice build. Did a similar process on my 87!
Could you do a run through how to delete everything??
You sound Wise af around engines.
Thank you! 👍
My 92 F150 is completely stock and I believe my starter solenoid only controls the starter solenoid on the starter. Somewhere along the line Ford changed the design of their starters. I remember when that starter solenoid actually was the solenoid that operated the starter motor. I believe they were called a 4 pole shaded starter motor and they did not have a solenoid mounted on the starter. I had a 2001 F150 5.4L, that also had that fender mounted solenoid that was not necessary. I worked on a 1999 Mercury with a 4.6 v8 and it had the same setup except that the fender mounted solenoid/relay had been replaced by a modern 4 terminal automotive relay mounted in the fuse box. My dad bought my 92 F150 brand new and when he reached 92 years old I bought it from him. So it has been in the family a long time and I drive it every day.
I just bought one of these old trucks and was thinking about doing just that. Thanks for uploading this!
Glad to hear it! Find the Ford 240/300 Performance page on Facebook and join the collective of information! It has over 35k members.
Bro! The sharpest auto outlaw ever!!
I appreciate your input and getting back with me on this , I did check my intake and the intake air sensor is already in the air box instead of the intake runner which is a plus but I do appreciate the info on the resistors I would have never known about that. I also cut the tube that went back to the exhaust pipe just back behind the o2 sensor and I was able to find a bolt that I threaded into it after I cut it off and sealed it with exhaust sealer. Thankfully my state doesn’t require inspections but I hear to tell you the amount of carbon buildup in the intake runners and intake ports in the head especially #5&6 cylinders were inexcusable so that’s why the main reason for me deleting all the smog junk , I’m hoping that I have good success with deleting all this stuff and taking the engine back to just being fuel injected. I tried looking you up on FB and I couldn’t find you , I was going to send you a friend request so we could maybe DM each other instead of publicly chatting. If you would send me your info or send me a friend request if you don’t mind, it seems like you pretty much have these trucks down and I do have a couple more issues that I would like to discuss with you personally. Thank You for responding back to me so soon.
I'm in the process of taking everything off my 351W 5.8L V8. 3/4 ton 4x4. and putting on a four barrel intake manifold. and a four barrel carburetor, and a Dura spark distributor, and an MSD ignition module, and a fuel pressure regulator, and then remove the check engine light bulb. because it no longer will be needed.
Great helpful video!
Thank you! I forgot I also put header wrap on my EFI exhaust manifolds, and secured it with stainless steel marine hose clamps. This also helped with heat soak and under hood temps.
This is the video I needed!
Just bought my son a low mileage 91 300 six. I think we are ripping everything out and doing a Holley Sniper efi setup. Blow through for a turbo later on.
Thank you for making this video, I wish you were my neighbor because I'm attempting to swap my blown engine in my 1988
I have a 95 efi in my 68 4x4 it's never ran right always rich I'm definitely moving the air temp sensor.
Looks great.
Yep yep I did this on my 1990 5.0 Bronco. However I DO like the idea and Will be doing thr IAT sensor Idea! Great idea man!
I’m looking forward to your future projects with this truck. I have a ‘94 4.9l with 5-speed. It has the second fuel tank, the tank switch is inop, a common occurrence I read.
I'm currently running on just the front tank right now. Rear isn't even installed. One of these days I will get to it.
My 92 was developing some intermittent fuel problems and the fuel pump in the front tank finally went out. The rear tank had a small leak so my son replaced the rear tank and pump. So now I am driving around with a full front tank but only use the back tank. I will siphon the front tank one of these days. But the switch has never been a problem.
And i can’t find the idle air plug terminator for sale anywhere.
Super cool walk through. I'm working a deal on a 4.9L to build and boost for my 04 F150 since I hate everything about the 4.2 V6 in there now. Do you have any resources for the injector timing and order?
Where can I order the EGR termination plug? 1988 f150 , 4.9 , 6 cylinder.
,, You should NOT be using gas line to you Fuel Pressure sensor... you need to use HARD small plastic vacuum line,,,
I have a 94 XL 6 automatic, love everything you did and when I get the money, Big plans for my old girl.i was havein a lot of trouble with all the wiring , wanted to make sure you could do that, thank you so much for the info
I could use your help!
I love this. Great video! I wonder how much I can delete on my '89 351.
Sick keep us updated,,,!!
i have a 95 flareside single cab with 4.9 and 5 spd. got her new on 17th bday. still new to this day with 187000.
Bravo........extra add on.........a fuse between the battery and the solenoid......pos side.........note there is not any fuse between the starter and battery........cheers
@cameron womack if you havent had it tuned yet you could try playing around with using spark plug non-foulers between your o2 sensors and the pipe. Trick the computer into giving it less fuel. Just a thought, im no EFI guru.
Any links for the termination plug and the resistors? I have been searching for months for a video like this to help with my 96 300 six!!!!
Jsut got an 88 i6 efi, and definitely gonna do this to it. Already had to replace the ecu since it wasnt sending signal to the fuel pump relay, but may simplify it even more and go carbeurated lol
Just came across this vid & DAMN! “If only!” Lol.. I got this customer’s 1989 F-250 here that he wants “fixed”; claimed it ran just fine before letting it sit for over half a decade. All stock 300 & is in Ca so does still require all these bandaids to remain in play & functional, for now. Dual gas tanks i pulled were both badly contaminated with really putrid, rancid old gas, both in-tank low pres pumps & sending units were completely rotten, vapor lines in necks rotten, tanks both fully covered with rats nests. I’ve bypassed all of that for now w/new high pres pump & new inline filter… she’ll fire & run as one squirts gas or ether into intake but so far, EFI ain’t doin’ jack poo. Pulled all injectors to inspect them, expecting they’d all be roughly as bad as all other fuel system parts thus far… to my surprise, the little inlet screens all appeared not that bad, fairly clean still. I did notice however, one sensor (?) along fuel rail not plugged into anything.. pigtail was just dangling under intake plinth.. this sensor (?) is located directly in front of gas pres regulator. Anyone know anything about what this is for?
Only thing that makes sense to me is the charcoal canister purge solenoid. That's the only connector in the middle of the lower intake on my truck.
@@Kamwi_003 I thank you for your response! A few hours after I left that msg, I came across a Ford part # tag around the pigtail wire of that sensor.. I googled that number. Turns out it’s a temp sensor for gas rail that was intended to activate an electric fan, if that area reached above a certain point. That truck has a regular clutch fan; explains why that was never plugged into anything
Full tag info states: FORD E7TE-AA 9F818…. That first portion refers to engine type/size; 2nd part refers to that specific sensor
That said though, I still haven’t isolated the exact problem yet, for why its EFI isn’t working. I’ll be back on that one soon to go down the line with checking each system, sensor &, actuator individually
@@seanbatiz6620 that's a very rare option! It does help a lot but my truck never had that. Be sure you don't have codes and if your codes are erratic, there's a good chance the capacitors in the ECU have failed and leaked. Mine did that. Bought a replacement from Rock Auto and send my old as a core.
What is the part number for the air temperature sensor???
Where do you buy your Egr plug for wiring harness that is for simulation so computer doesn’t realize it is out of system 1992 f150 obd 1
Hey Cam, I’ve done the emissions delete properly basically looks like your set up but without cam or bigger injectors. I have no check engine lights. I’m having an issue though. Once the truck is warm I have what sounds like a miss or a popcorn kinda pop at random from the exhaust. You can feel it in the cab and it messes with the idle a bit. I’m running straight 3” pipe with 3” glass pack for a muffler midway down. Pipe exits near bumper. Stock engine basically. Truck runs great wide open btw.
Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Double check anything on the intake manifold, manifold bolts, gaskets, or anything on the vacuum tea or the vacuum ports right at the throttle body itself. You have a minor vacuum leak somewhere. It will only cause issues down low, causing a rich fuel condition. It will not cause any problems up top.
@@Kamwi_003 yeah I’ve been looking, spraying intake and hoses with carb cleaner to see if it bogs or idle jumps up. But nothing so far. I’m running a remflex intake/exhaust gasket. Replaced bolts with studs on the head and made sure i torqued everything down to spec during that project. The popping is just at idle once warm and a bit rough if u hold the Rpms at 2k.
@@StudioELW405did you ever happen to find the fix for this? My truck is currently doing the exact same thing but I’m thinking about relocating the intake temp sensor like this guy did. I’d rather not cut my wires but if it helps I will.
Know anything bout the 1988 transition year? Done all you done but 3 of my wiring harness plugs on the distributor side are 3 wires. And i found none to put a resistor on on the intake/exhaust side.
To bad mine is a 96 can’t really delete anything with it being OBD2 but you did good with yours
Why can't you delete on a 96? I'm doing it right now
Speaking specifically ab out the removal of the EGR, what all did you have to do just for that? Just the resistors & vac line plugging? I have heard removing EGR will make the engine go lean and can only be corrected with an update in tuning. Any insight on that?
What size belt did you use when you deleted the smog pump?
Which intake temp sensor did you use? I have an engine without the threaded port so I need to relocate it.
Cameron , I just watched your 4.9 EFI Simplification video and I do have a question. Did you put the same 10 ohm resistor 1/4 watt in place where the TAV and Thermactor relays where , also where did you get the intake sensor ( plastic plug ) that you put in place up near the air box instead of on the intake manifold.
I really appreciate your info on how to do this on these particular trucks as mine is all carboned up and I just really don’t see the need in all that crap being on these engines.
Again Thank You for all your inside.
I relocated the stock intake sensor from the number 1 intake runner to the intake air box. It uses a tapered pipe thread so I used a flush stainless pipe plug in the intake to plug the hole. Yes, same 10 ohm 1/4 watt resistors for any of the solenoids.
Stupid vacuum lines! I will remove mines on my 1992 4.9
Hi my name is ...harvey an i cant start uo my f150 1995 .!cz i cant start it up
very nice, love this a lot, the resistors is actually something iv been wondering on how to make the computer think its still there, love this vid and got a sub for this alone, and on the megasquirt was you gonna keep the distributor or go to like a Coil on plug?
Plan is to replace the TFI with a MSD 6A for now, long term wasted spark using a 2.3 pinto cam sync (it will fit but needs 300 cam gear) with either a EDIS-6 coil or LS coils wired with 3 outputs in parallel.
And thank you
@@Kamwi_003 hey man I got a 1996 f150 same engine just recently did EGR delete pollution delete smog all that now it'll start and die like it can't breathe or something truck never really ran good I've replaced everything idk what to do now I have alot of money in it
@@ALMIGHTYGARAGE there's a metric ton of things it could be. Especially being a MAF truck. The good news is you have OBD2 diagnostics. Check for codes.
Regardless, unhook the MAF and the MAP sensor. See if the truck will start and idle. If it will, then you likely have an issue with one of those two components. The MAP doesn't fail often but it does happen. Do NOT buy a cheap one, get a real Motorcraft if you replace it. Trust me. MAF sensors don't fail often either but they do get dirty or contaminated. Clean it carefully out of the truck with alcohol. Don't break the fine wires inside it.
@@Kamwi_003 I just got a new icm today getting a new ecm I think it's that bc never had a cel no codes can't b much more I've replaced everything
I like your ideas I have a 94 pulling the engine out to replace lifters and cam gear resealing the valve cover lifter cover oil pan replacing front/rear oil seals. I’ve lost speedometer and shifting is very hard not smooth. It’s like it has a bad modulator valve but it doesn’t have a modulator valve any ideas?
Does the relocation of the sensor to the air intake give an added bump in timing? Read that an egr total delete can cause some pre-detonation problems (pinging?) and error codes? Nice video!
That's correct. It will command more timing automatically. The 1995.5-1996 trucks that are MAF have this from the factory.
I could use your advise
WHAT SIZE FOR THE INTAKE AIR TEMP SENSOR PLUG? GREAT VID MAN!
It's a pipe thread. I think it was a 1/2 npt
Do you still have this truck? I'm rebuilding mine and I want EFI but as simple as possible. Pretty sure I live near you lol, how do the 10 ohm resistors work?
Hey there my friend! Great video. I just found you. My check engine light has been coming on intermittently but recently more frequently. Ive noticed it come on when I let off the gas or when I first start the truck. 94 F150 300 I6. It has cut out on me a few times now when slowing down. Just dies, but will restart right up. Any thoughts?
Hey I’ve got a 95 f150 lets chat sometime, im doing a chrome delete, stop rust, hangers, injectors, the 9
Sure thing man. I'm easy to find on Facebook and I moderate a large 300 page on FB as well.
Very interested to find out what you can get your MPGs up to when you're done tuning. 9 miles per gallon is not acceptable.
I put electric fans and got 1.5 MPG better on my 94’ 4.9 (15.4 MPG)
I have a 95 single cab short bed 150 with 4.9 auto. I would like to delete everything you did but dont understand about the resistors, size, which wires etc. I have an old Holman Moody intake and was thinking it might be possible to mount throttle body to it and do away with the valve cover anti theft device called the upper plenum. The TB should work vertically oriented if I can get cables to it. Is this totally nuts or just slightly crazy? You said follow you on FB,??? Which Cameron are you. Im in NE Texas.
I have a 1994 4.9 I6 and I just removed the EGR and smog pump. What size belt did you need? Mine is a 97 inch with AC.
What size resistors did you use on the driver side valve cover vacuum mess
I believe im in love
Everything about that engine bay screams PIG, I love it.
Ever seen a stock one? There's so much useless shit it's insane. Makes the engine a total pain in the ass to work on. This ain't the most beautiful thing but it's damn sure easier to work on now.
@Kamwi_003 yeah I own two of em. Been thinking of doing the smog removal on the 302 since it's also a pig. I thought it was funny because my 302 is missing the same inner fender. I know you said you had yours off for a reason. Mine doesn't have a reason it just came like that. But the video was good and informative. I was overthinking the placement for all the wiring when I was done. Seeing how you did it made sense.
Does the air box have a port for the intake air temp sensor or does it require a new air box? I think that could be contributing to my trucks rough running. Has a random miss that I've been trying to chase down
No, I had to cut the hole. I used a forsner bit, but a step bit would work fine. I made a nut to secure it from a bronze bushing that was the same pipe thread and just cut it short, but in hindsight as long as you don't cut the hole too big this is not necessary. I enjoy these trucks and they are starting to gain value, but it's only worth it if you do it yourself. It would be a money pit if you took it to an independent and had them do everything.
Is there anywhere where there's a write up or a list of the needed resistor values? I would love to do this to my 94 300 truck. I've done the physical delete but have check engine codes. Not really a problem in my state but I would love to have the light off
No engine light from egr removal???
You can unplug the check engine light. If you have OBD or OBD II, you can still pull codes
Hi Cameron great video! May I ask why you route a hose from your pvc into the vacuum tree?>
That's a factory hose for the EFI trucks. A breather would be fine too but I didn't want any oil stains or anything. A catch can is also a good suggestion.
what goes into deleting those vacuum bypass solenoids under the egr? what diff does is make without them? do I just rip em off and put those resistors on and cap the vac?
thanks
I'm wondering the same.
Hey I was wondering if you could get me a diagram or list of what resistors you used and where you placed them for all of your deletes. I desperately need it actually since my truck is down and I need a job asap. I'd really appreciate it if you could help me out with this. Btw your truck sounds niiice. Great job
1/2 watt 10 ohm resistors for all the TAB/TAD solenoids that are mounted on the valve cover.
El no conectar el sensor de temperatura de aire provoca fallas
What belt do you use for the air pump delete with AC?
I have the same question
Are these trucks worth the time to fix up as a daily? My 91 xlt lariat is only has 93k miles, I'd like it to be a reliable daily work truck but just not sure
Absolutely worth it, especially when comparing them with new trucks. 2023 Chevy Colorado starting MSRP is $29,200 for a small truck! If it hasn't been driven in awhile, expect a few parts failures. My 96 300 was only driven a few thousand miles in the last decade. It still runs great, but components like the distributor and fuel pumps have gone out since I started daily driving it. Now that I am getting caught back up on a decade of neglected maintenance I think its going to be reliable in the future.
great video. i have mustang injectors on mine, definitely runs rich. did you find that there is any advantage in running the mustang IAC over the stock f140 one? also, did the air temp sensor fit right into the breather filter hole in the airbox?
I highly doubt there's any difference with the mustang IAC, I just happen to have had one on hand when mine failed. As far as the IAT, I had to make a hole for it. I used a step bit and a piece of a brass bushing to act as a nut for the other side.
@@Kamwi_003 man i'm still having a hell of a time sorting out some kinks here... so i've done just about everything you did a few weeks ago and something just ain't right. it's been hard starting especially when warmed up, which i thought might be my in line fuel pump not priming right. replaced that, and i will admit the new one sounds stronger, but didn't really fix the issue. it idles rough, and if i'm parked in neutral and open the throttle its got a pretty noticeable squeal, almost like i've got a vacuum leak, but i've sprayed brake kleen on anywhere i could have a vacuum leak and i don't notice a change in idle. i'm also throwing a code for lean condition which is odd cuz i have the mustang injectors so if anything i'd think it would be running rich. you seem like you really got yours dialed in so any suggestions you might have would be super appreciated. i've swapped almost every damn sensor i can think of.
sorry probably more info and diagnosing than you bargained for by posting helpful videos. wanted to add, i'm also having an issue where my crank gets really weak after i've been running the truck. like, right away, even though i have a solid 13V at the battery. not sure if thats a starter issue or what, but the whole not seeming to get enough gas after running is a bad combination with a mysterious weak crank. i've been spraying the intake with ether to get it to start if its warm. once it's been running for a bit the rough idle seems to improve, but i do feel like it doesn't quite have the guts that it did when it was stock. my exhaust sounds very farty (i have a Y pipe going into a glass pack, then stock tailpipe), but prior to doing this, the cat went into the same glass pack and a just a short straight pipe and it didn't have the fartiness... it also pops quite a bit on decel. the only reason i made the changes is it started to run like shit and misfire, so i pulled the injectors and they were totally gunked up, cracked, etc. figured while i was doing injectors i'd put in the 19#, trash the cat, egr, smog, etc. anyways, not trying to turn you into my mechanic here, but since you seem to be real familiar with your I6 i figured it'd be worth a shot to see if you've had any ideas. i've been fiddling with the damn thing for weeks.
@@alexkruser256 It took a long time for the ECU to adjust to the 19s for me and had similar issues. Lots of exhaust fire on decel and even a few fireballs. Reference one of my cold start videos and you will see I have a side pipe on the passenger side and I have seen huge fireballs out in the country at night, and even some massive flashes on the highway after doing a hard pull on some asshat on the road. Hard to start when hot could be a lot of things, be sure you have all the heat isolation you can get on both the starter itself and the lower intake manifold. Do the IAT relocation, and confirm your ignition timing is correct. With 19s I'd also change to AutoLite AR32 Spark plugs and set base timing (WITH SPOUT REMOVED) to 15 degrees. Be sure you use the correct timing tab! You want the stamped steel tab, NOT the cast aluminum front cover marks!
@@alexkruser256 Also I'd advise you check your connections for your primary positive and ground. Mine were lacking a little and I went whole hog and wired in new 1/0 AWG wires. I ran my positive to the fender solenoid and did a home run from the fender solenoid to the starter. I have FULL TIME power AT the starter, where from the factory you do not, it goes through the fender solenoid. I am only using my fender solenoid as a slave solenoid for the starter's onboard solenoid. Ergo, that means there is a smaller, probably 12 or 10 awg wire coming off the SWITCHED side of my fender solenoid.
Great vid! Thanks for sharing. Are you going to get rid of the catalytic?
Long gone. The cat housing makes a wonderful 2 into 1 with a 3 inch outlet. Running a Gibson MWA muffler.
@@Kamwi_003 Got it! I'm doing same thing on an 87. Thanks
What about your break master cylinder vacuum tube off the top ?
My master cylinder goes to a large fitting on the bottom side of the upper intake manifold.
I couldn't tell if you were talking about the temp sensor or the smog pump, but what did you use to plug the temp sensor hole in the intake runner?
A stainless pipe plug.
@@Kamwi_003ey bro you removed also the air pump located in the intake side with all those unusual hoses?
@@masautomx2131 the AIR injection rail? Yes. That's on the exhaust side but yes. I also removed the smog pump and plugged the exhaust where it was pumping air into the cat. I also no longer have a cat. The AIR rail holes are 9/16 Fine thread. They are NOT A PIPE thread.
Hope ya see this, that cam, is it the "stage 1" ? What mustang did the sensor and injectors come from?
Only mustang part I'm using is the injectors and the IAC but that's only because I had the IAC. There's no benefit to using a mustang IAC. Any mustang or 302/5.0 EFI with orange top injectors. Some early 2000s explorers and 150s with the 302 or early modulator motor use the orange top injectors too.
Cam "stages" are bullshit but if I was to guess I'd call it a Stage 1.5/2
@@Kamwi_003 are you also running a stock ecu or mega squirt for tune?
@@jlgibson1983 in this video I was using a stock ECU. I am now running a mega squirt instead, and the truck came alive. There was a lot left on the table with that combination with the stock ECU. It ran and drove, and was reliable, but there was a ton of power left on the table and a ton of fuel mileage as well.
Is that first inline resistor on the left side of engine while facing it, did you put that in place of the coolant temp sensor? I have an 1987 f150 with the EFI 4.9 300. It's fully smog deleted, no cats, true dual 2in exhaust. Borg Warner t-18 4x4 shortbox running 31x10.5r15 tires. Just did a Comp Cams 252H cam swap, steel timing gears, threw on some MSD ignition coil and Taylor plug wires and Taylor cap and rotor. Have ignition timing to 18° initial with spout disconnected. I haven't moved my intake temp sensor and still have my coolant temp sensor intact. I did try the 19lb/hr injector swap from a 351 Windsor. I got horrible mileage and error light for rich condition. Swapped back to 4 hole 14lb/hr grey top injectors. Still looking for a bit more power. Interested in any hacks you might know about. Would moving my air temp sensor help?
Moving the air temp sensor would help, but 18 might be too much timing unless you already have cold spark plugs. I have my coolant temp sensor intact. I only resistor modded the Thermactor, EGR solenoid, and canister purge.
My advice would be to install Autolite AR32 plugs and go from there. The factory knock sensor is pretty sensitive and on my cam I couldn't run that much timing. The Melling MTF-6 has a rapidly closing intake valve and that increases the dynamic compression.
@@Kamwi_003 I initially did the "sixlitre" tune and did the 14° initial timing both while stock cam and cam swap. Decided to time it by ear while holding throttle to 2500rpm with spout connected. Turned timing up till ran freest, past a bit till it started running rough then backed it off till it ran smooth and gave it a tad less timing off of that to play it safe. Pulled spout to check what I got for initial and it was 18°. I'd doesn't bump the starter and doesn't seem to ping. My 87 doesn't have the purge solenoid. As for thermactor and egr plugins, all have been unplugged. I don't have the light in dash but can run codes off the obd1 port. Also when I tried the orange top 19lb injectors it started so nice, especially when hot, and had nice power, though nothing over the top as for the amount of gas it was using on a road trip. Saved the injectors and went back with correct size. It pulls decent when cold in "open loop" but not so much when in "closed loop". Got 14.7 mpg out of it with wind at my back driving like a granny. Engine is impressive in 1st very impressive in 2nd but 3rd falls a little, though still pulls ok.
@@Kamwi_003 I've also got my knock sensor intact, but have heard from a ford mechanic to take it out of block and tie it up at firewall in foam or something and keep it hooked up. Haven't gone that far as to try it yet. I don't think mine really bothers much
Whats the resistor on the passenger side for, my TAB, TAD, EVP are all on the drivers side, its in a van, none of the shit is there, previous owner disconnected the smog, I have codes and can't get the junk to idle in gear, trying to sort out the insanity, my injectors were clogged giving me 4 cylinders, after that was fixed, I had the mechanic delete all the smog controls, and it hasn't been right since, but they were not hooked up, the vacuum lines were just there in my way.
IAC valve
Check vacume lines
I'm a noob though so that's a shot in the dark
@@iBizZle2New IAC, no change, removed the vac canister under the battery, slight change, was rusted, still quits when put in gear, can hear the entire top end rattle under acceleration when attempting to make it run in gear, if you own one of these pieces or garbage pull every piece of the EFI setup, including the distributor, swap it over to a carburetor, because you will never make the EFI crap work, will always have an issue, out of time, too much fuel, not enough fuel etc!. There has been enough money spent to get this fixed, could have bought a built ready to run 300+ HP V8, Ford ruined the longest lasting engine they made, good work, quality is job 1.
lol this dude is smarter than ford engineers. Hows your truck doing bud?
Running strong. I recently parked it for an even larger set of injectors and a new RemFlex gasket but she's doing great. Much better now with the MegaSquirt swap and proper custom tuning.
What were the specs on all the resistors to remove all the elctronics
10 ohm 1/2 watt I believe
@@Kamwi_003 alright, any check lights?
@@Project-gr6zy only light I have is rich condition from the 19 lb injectors. No TAB/TAD/Canister purge lights
@@Kamwi_003 alright sounds good
I always wondered. Does the truck run hotter? since i here people say that the egr actually keeps the combustion temperature lower. Im planning to do this to my 4.9 and 5.0
Never had an issue running hot. Cold if anything with the big injectors.
@@Kamwi_003do you happen to remember what part number is the air temp sensor your using and where did you get the erg Terminator plug
Where did you buy the intake air temp sensor
Ok lol so I’m brand new to all this. I just inherited my dads 91 F150 XLT Lariat 4.9 6 cylinder. If I’m trying to teach myself how to work on it where’s a good starting point?
Cast iron camgear
Can you verify the resistor on those deletes, as well as the new belt length on your pump delete?
1/2 watt, 10 ohm. Belt varies depending on how you route it. I believe it's 92 the way I have it. There's several forum posts about it, some have part numbers or belt interchange numbers.
@@Kamwi_003 thanks. I am considering doing a delete on my 91.
Does it not run warm without a fan shroud?
Are all of these deletes smog legal in California?
Not even slightly
What intake air temp sensor did you use?
What size belt do you use after the smog delete
Did you remove the a.i.r rail as well if so how did you plug those holes
I did and they are 9/16 Fine thread. Some people have used pipe plugs but it's a straight thread, not a tapered thread.
9miles per gallon? I need a 4cyl....
9 mpg..
I finally got my MegaSquirt done and I now get 18 on highway. 😊
Where did you find a plastic bodied air temp sensor?
Autozone
All over RockAuto or any of the auto stores. Even the later Motorcraft ones are plastic.
So does it idle right like no sputtering idling and doesn’t sputter shifting
Idles great, no problems other than the fuel mileage, which is partially my fault. Truck is being converted to MicroSquirt now.
@@Kamwi_003 ah ok thanks I’ve took my smog pump off and the pipe that runs from that car to the engine off but I’ve been wanting to fully delete it because I think all my egr bs is making my truck run crappy it sputters idling and In in 1st 2nd and 3rd it sputters if you slowly go on the gas then it’ll rock the truck violently lol it’s bad
@@OBS_95_FORD_F150 could also be a bad tps. Live data is the only way to confirm.
What are the 2 wires that are on/ near the fuel rail that you put a resistor on?
Charcoal canister purge valve.
Are all the resistors you used in this video 10 ohm 1/4 watt?
Where'd you get the terminator plug for the egr plug in
Hey Tim did you ever get a link for that egr plug in?
@@capeable74 no I never did
What size threaded plugs did you use? Other than 1/4", and what did you use the 9/16" for??
The 9/16 NF plug (not NPT) is for the smog ports in the head. There's 6 of them in the exhaust runner.
@@Kamwi_003 So I would need (6) 9/16 NF straight thread, are those the only two sizes? Also, regarding the resistor you used, was there a certain percentage tolerance you looked for? For example, 1% or 5% tolerance on the resistor? Or does it even matter? Could you also refer me to as to where you bought your plugs? Please and appreciate your help.
@@noevictorsanchez623 I believe I bought my plugs from a hydraulic supply store, but that's way overkill. I'd suggest eBay as this is a fairly well known thing and there's smog delete kits available online for far cheaper than you will find locally.
Tolerance doesn't matter, I believe mine were 5% but I either used 1/4 watt or 1/2 watt. They were a decent size physically and the ceramic was sky blue. As long as they aren't tiny and rated for 1/8 watt or less, you should be fine. 10 ohm is nearly perfect, 25 would work too.
@@Kamwi_003
What about the tube that leads up to the egr? Did you plug that up too? If so with what did you plug out to with?
@@noevictorsanchez623 pinch and weld would probably be best, but in my case I took the rubber line that was beside the firewall and plugged it with a pipe plug inside the hose and put a hose clamp on it. When I had the exhaust worked on, I had that cut off and welded shut.
what size belt do you need after the smog pump removal?
82.5 fits with no ac 😢
@@pondermtbquestioneverythin2080thanks
where did you get the terminator plug for the EGR??
innotronix.net/FORD-TRUCK-BRONCO-EGR-ELIMINATOR-EGR-DELETE-F150-F250-1986-1995-86-95-p290940499
Mine does about 14 mpg I think I’ll keep it the way it is
Is there a way to put a larger throttle body on these engines?
Yes, a few have done it. Requires fab work but it isn't rocket science.
@@Kamwi_003 do you know what fab work specifically? Im trying to find a write up but i cant. Im planning to try to do a little turbo build for my 300 but at the very least i want to upgrade that TB to get more air in her.
@@Kamwi_003 thanks for the video and info very good stuff!
@@ogk129 you can either cut the intake for the larger 460 TB or you can hog out the divider on the twin TB on the intake, bolt an aluminum plate to it, then bolt a traditional 76 or 90mm 5.0 style TB to it.
@@Kamwi_003 so essentially get rid of the divider and make it one big intake so you can mate a regular tb. Thanks for the information!!