Bambu Lab A1 0.2 VS 0.4 Nozzles for Miniatures: Which is Best?
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- I got my hands on the 0.2mm nozzle for the Bambu Lab A1 3D printer. I wanted to see how much of a difference in quality I could get with miniatures and terrain compared to the standard 0.4mm nozzle.
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Buy the Bambu Lab A1: shrsl.com/4k1rr
Buy the 0.2mm Nozzle: shrsl.com/4k1s7
Bambu Lab Beige Filament: shrsl.com/4k1t4
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Models in this Video
Brite Minis: makerworld.com/en/@briteminis
Darkwing: makerworld.com/en/models/1685...
Teirale Miniatures: www.printables.com/@Teirale
Death x Tiles: www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Wonder Woman by Eastman: www.printables.com/model/5538...
*****************************************************************************************************Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:55 Basic Slicer Settings
1:38 Swapping Nozzles
3:40 Comparison 1
4:33 Comparison 2
5:41 Comparison 3
7:09 Resin Comparison
10:07 Terrain Comparison
11:57 Printing Larger Figures
15:17 Conclusion
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Card Mafia: Use the Promo Code "FigureFeedback5Off" for 5% Off Your Card Mafia Purchase! : www.cardmafia.com?sca_ref=2492569.wSUwkQ9aSr
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*Some links are affiliate links in which I'll earn a small commission if you choose to make a purchase. - Zábava
Yeah, resin is a cool looking technology and all. I enjoy watching resin printing content. But in the real world when you have to deal with toxic chemicals, respirators, gloves, spills and hazardous waste it's a deal breaker for me. I'll stick to FDM, the detail is plenty good enough for me.
Absolutely 👍
I will use my Saturn 3 for all the precious stuff, but as soon as my Bambu arrives i will print most things with FDM. As you said, its not fun to print with resin, even if the results are godlike.
And for me the best thing about fdm is: You see if the first layer fails or not. With Resin i always have to wait until he is far enough out of the tank, in that time he already baked a nice layer of resin on the FPE for me to scrape off.
See with resin people are aware it’s “hazardous” so they take precautions with FDM people are unaware and don’t. FDM still emit VOCs and particulates. The air from a FDM printer should be filtered and you should still wear a respirator. I’d rather people be careful with something because they think it’s hazardous than be flippant with something they don’t that is still hazardous because they don’t think it is.
@@MaheerKibria that‘s just misinformation, if you are talking about bpa. Yes, there are fumes, and i personally wouldn’t sleep in a room with a printing printer. But our company tested the latest printers we use for rapid prototyping, and Voc (as particles) were well below our expectations. Every one of our work halls where people grind, weld and do other stuff has way worse air quality, even with active airflow. Adding there are amateur printers like the x1 carbon, that additionally reduces air pollution. ABS and stuff is a whole other story, but an fdm with bpa is just on another level compared to a resin printer if you are talking about exposure to toxic materials and such..
@@MaheerKibria You can see that people tend to mod their printers with filtered ventilators more and more (also, a lot of enclosed printer already come with filters), and even use respirators at least when using ABS or ASA. What I actually worry about is that I tend to see a lot of prints that will have contact with food, without thinking about bacteria settling in between layers
I stopped FDM printing around 2 years ago and only did Resin printing but now after getting my Bambu Lab printer, I am back doing FDM. Thing have change a lot in the last number of years and much cheaper and easier. Thanks for awesome video. Need to get a 0.20 Nozzel.
You can just change the line width with the 0.4mm nozzle. Believe it or not you can undersize it and get 0.25mm line width for the outer layer and quality comes out really good. Plus you get the benefit of thicker inside layers for strength.
That Wonder Woman statue is one of the most impressive prints I have ever seen! Makes me want to give my 0.2 another chance.
I want to also mention that the matte style bambu pla (PLA Matte vs the PLA Basic you are using in your video) really hides layer lines, and they have some really lovely earth tone matte colors that would work super well in a TTRPG setting. I use the matte filaments with big nozzles to print functional parts like shop dividers and shelf brackets and such, and the big layers on those are masked by the matte filament. I bet the results on a mini printed at 0.2 with a matte filament would be amazing (and eliminate that "plastic sheen" you mention).
THANK YOU, I've waited and searched so long for a .2 and .4 comparison for miniatures. I will try out my .2 nozzle now :)
As someone who only has an FDM printer available, this is a wonderful comparison.
Thank you 🙏
And you dont have to f. around with resin it self, toxic stuff. that the best of it :)
Just got my A1 combo a week ago. I started printing a Wicked model on it and so far at 0.08 layer height on a 0.4mm nozzle i'm impressed. After printing on Ender 3 Pro for a couple years its such a difference. Seeing this printed on 0.2mm nozzle is insane. The detail and quality of that Wonder Woman is honestly insane. I really want to try on an 0.2mm nozzle now. Great video!
That wonderwoman! gorgeous print! Thanks for including this with the 0.2 nozzle. Wouldn't mind seeing more prints like that!
Thank you for your reviews, Jeremy 🙏
I am surprised at how well the 0.2 prints turned out. Thank you for the comparison!
thanks for linking to the models you used in your description! always great to find some sweet free models
Great job, i just joined the bambu club with the A1 Mini. Good review, strings and all. Keep up the honesty and take this sub.
Thank you for making this. Very helpful. I love my A1. So glad to have found your videos. Love from the UK sunny Bournemouth
This is a fantastic video. Thanks for the thorough and detailed breakdown here!
Thank you! I've only had my A1 a few weeks and bought a 0.2 nozzle with it but haven't had the guts to try swapping it in yet :)
Excellent topic, narration and production.
Thanks for doing this video! I was about to buy a .2 mm nozzle and didn't know how quality would look. You did the work for me! I have a resin printer and an A1, so I don't mind not going to .2 mm in FDM and just print it on resin printer.
I now have my third Bambulab and I am still impressed by the possibilities this maschine offers.
Thanks for doing a follow up video. Really interesting to see the side by side comparisons. The nice thing to see is that for those of us who only have an FDM machine and only want to print the occasional miniature or figurine it might be a much better (and cheaper) option to get a 0.2mm nozzle instead of forking out the cash for a resin printer. That Wonder Woman figure is amazing...
This is a great video. You answered a lot of nagging questions I have had as I don't have a 0.2 nozzle. Also that Wonder Woman statue is darn near resin level.
Please keep up the great work!
Just got a Bambu A1 about a week ago and I’ve been printing primarily terrain so far, but this was really helpful. Didn’t plan on being able to print minis, but I am really impressed with how those turned out, and a test print I did yielded results I was quite happy with. Looking forward to trying out the smaller nozzle for some other miniatures!
Thanks for a nice clear concise video.
Amazing, gonna try it by myself.
Great video!
Excellent video 👍🏼
Very IMPRESSIVE, That WonderWoman came out Perfect. Butter Smooth.
Great video. I have been using my 0.2 to print N Scale model railroad items and they do look great......
great topic, thanks 👍
Great video, thx for sharing. Years ago I did the same comparisons with my FDM and resin printers and got similar results and a similar take from the naked eye. However as a miniature hobbyist I can tell you the layer lines and roughness of the surfaces on the FDM is substantial for miniature painting. The white filament hides a lot of the FDM artifacts but once paint is applied they will be amplified. These artifacts can be minimized by additional prep work but that is work you dont have to do with a resin printer. A follow up video comparing them being painted or what it took to prep a mini to make it look as good as resin would be a great video
I don’t have a 3d printing channel but I watch a lot and you’ve been coming up in my recommended. Keep up the good work! Also a suggestion is to add more b-roll in the videos
I second adding a bit more b-roll. Good job though. Enjoying your vids. Just subscribed 👍🏻
I’m a third vote for more b-roll of the models while you’re talking. Good vid though, very useful comparison!
I'm not into minifigures but I think the easy swap nozzles are a greater improvements compared to other printers than the AMS. I have my A1 for a bit over a week and I've been swapping between 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6 depending on whether I wand details or speed. I've hesitated so often with my Prusa Mini to swap nozzles because of how much work in involved.
Great video bro. Good comparisons with the exception of that resin mini. That looks sub 4k. Still, exactly the info I need. Bambu A1 ordered!
This was really helpful. I got the nozzle pack with my A1 because it was only $20 more so why not. I game in 15mm mostly so I'll definitely be using the .02, fine detail for my terrain in that scale.
I've used other printers with 0.2mm nozzles with varying results. The Bambu A1 Mini is the first printer that just works well, every time, with this small a nozzle. It's great for HO scale stuff, although figures in HO scale is pushing my luck :-) Nicely done video, thanks for the very good comparisons. Now that they are shipping again an A1 is in the cards.
Sold me on this printer and nozzle 🤯
I will still wait since, i dont have space for it for now, but i definitely cross out screwing around with resin
Looks like for me, the 0.2 nozzle is really good for player character minis, statues that are going to be a display, or like showstoppers. For my D&D group I’d use it for the player characters and for like the big bad. Everything else… probably 0.4. For when I don’t wanna use a resin printer. And honestly sometimes I just don’t wanna bother with resin.
Thanks for the 0.2 vs 0.4 comparison. I keep thinking about getting a resin printer but the mess and just post processing looks so tiring. I love my Bambu Lab P1S and this just makes me love it more.
The Wonder Woman looks absolutely amazing... holy... Didn't expect that kind of quality... 😮
Your showcasing of the 0.2 nozzle is very helpful. I completely agree with what you said with terrain and larger figures, but for miniatures the difference between FDM and Resin IS noticeable with a naked eye. Counterintuitively the difference is even more apparent if you paint them
Any idea how well the tiny layer lines on the 0.2 hide after paint? Obviously it’ll depend on the thickness of the paint to a degree.
Thank you for doing this excellent, detailed comparison. I only have FDM printers (Including a Bambu P1X which is the CoreXY version of that A1 you have there) and typically do functional parts, so I'm using a 0.6 or even 0.8 nozzle most of the time. Even though I play D&D and would love being able to print miniatures, I've never even tried because I had it in my head that the quality, even with a small nozzle, would be dramatically inferior to resin and simply not worth the time investment. Your video has just shown me that I was mistaken, and I just ordered a 0.2 nozzle for my Bambu P1 (really).
I've been priniting with the 0.2 nozzle for a bit now, and they are truly amazing. Sure it takes a bit of time, but it's not like you have to stay at the printer while it finishes. The beauty of the A1 is that is just works - without micro management.
It's interesting how resin is slightly better than 0.2mm FDM in parts, but there are actually other parts of the resin figure's details got lost while 0.2mm FDM retained them
Used to get great minis using the Qidi i Mate S with 0.2 mm. Loved the quality, but a pain to change nozzle cartridges. Thinking of getting Bambu Labs.
I need to try a.2 nozzle.
I own a P1S and have yet to use my .02 nozzle which I bought recently. I appreciated your comparisons, and like you, have printed miniatures with my .04 nozzle with surprisingly great results, not even at the highest quality. Which leads me to wonder doing a comparison at the Standard an/or Optimal settings might be worth a go. To be honest, I’m not sure I would print much of anything at the highest settings due to the extra time involved, and have found the Standard and Optimal settings work fine. I also have to imagine that if one was to paint any of those prints, the slight print improvements from .04 to .02 would be less of an issue.
i agree with you .2 nozzle and fdm is worth it because i drop everything and fdm prints are way more durable great video
Great video. Really gave me the puch to go fdm. If you don't mind, can you show the figurines close up a little longer as you explain. I really enjoyed looking at the details. More videos like this, please. Great work.
I have x1c and print minis at 0.2. I want a resin printer, but i know i don't really need it for minis. Also with arachne on 0.4 you can get very similar quality and increase it even more on 0.2
That Wonder Woman is literally resin level, thats insane
wow with a little brushing and primer paint, that wonder woman is done
I had the idea to make some minis for FDM specifically in the vein of Rocketpig or Fat Dragon. Great videos Figure Feedback.
Thank you!
I would very much like to see a similar workup on the FlashForge Adventurer 5m .25mm nozzle. I've had some pretty good results with mine and would be very interested in seeing how it goes in your hands.
As far as the poo pooing of FDM vs. Resin in some of the posts on here... chill guys. FIGURE makes it pretty clear that he is not saying that FDM is "as good" as Resin, but i still think these results are quite impressive. It really depends on what the miniatures are going to be used for and what your expectations are for the particular piece.
No... you're likely not going to win a painting comp with an FDM produced model, but these make great pieces for tabletop games and even decorative pieces in many cases. There are trade-offs with every process, including resin printing. The differences are definitely noticeable, but i think calling them massive is a bit hyperbolic depending on the use.
How does this compare to the flashforge 5m?
What would you recommend between the two?
Thanks
Thanks for the comparisons - this is great information. Are you using supports at all? If so, what are you using? I'm finding it very difficult to use the Bambu support material with minis but I'm having tremendous issues printing with PVA.
Most of the models in this video were supportless. I've done organic tree supports for minis that need it. PVA is something I'd like to try as a support interface.
The differences show up more after you begin to add paint. The layer lines tend to wick and channel paint and washes in undesirable or unexpected ways. But if you never paint it should be fine, or if you use color printing with AMS instead of paint maybe.
07:58 : It's quite easy to see which one is resin printed and not, the difference will be quite obvious when painting and I don't even speak about printing times if you're looking to print an army :)
12:55 *I'm surprised the index finger by the sword didn't need any support.*
Good vid. More close-ups next time plz.
Video with the 0.6mm nozzle pleaseeee!!! 🙏🙏🙏
Amazing! That looked better than the resin print. I guess Jeremy said that multicolor function is too expensive to use lol
I did a rough and incomplete paint job in the slicer just to see what it would take. Her upper half alone would take 7 days and 8 hours with 2390 filament changes.
@@FigureFeedback goodness gracious that's a long time for that print.
Filament changes themselves are slow, like really slow. Over 30 seconds just for the mechanical action of extract 1 filament and insert another, then you have the nozzle purge it has to perform (which also uses a good chunk of filament) and if using dissimilar materials may also have a small amount of time used changing hotend temperature though this is less of an issue for plain multi colour printing.
2000 and something changes at 30 seconds each is over 8 hours of filament changes alone just in the mechanical procedure.
Really cool and useful tech, but yeah, gotta be careful with how it's used versus when you're just gonna use paint.
would be interesting to see
a comparison between the a1 and a similar priced resin printer like the saturn 4 ultra
i mean that thing is a gamechanger 12k display automatic bed leveling and exposure sensor
that thing is near automatic and with the tilting vat it prints a layer in under 6 seconds at 0.05 layer height . its an absolute beast
plus the obviously added benefit that you can fill up the whole build plate with models
and it still prints at the same speed like with any resin printer
it is a figure printing factory at from what i have seen almost games workshop quality level which is insane
I would like to see all the settings that you choose for this wonderful pieces. I do have a X1c and a 0.2 and didn't get close to this quality of work.
Can you make a video of your slicer settings? I tried 0,2 a lot of times, but always with bad quality even with 0,6 layer weight.
A great test would be printing a 75mm miniature with the 0.2mm nozzle.
WOW, really great video. I wonder how a 3.75 Star Wars figure blaster would look printed with this nozzle?
great video man. If i may give a tip. turn off autofocus on the camera. Having it on makes the camera zoom all the time witch can distract and annoy
my guy ive been having trouble with calibrating my 0.2 on my a1 mini can you make a video how you calibrated
I actually didn't do any special calibrations beyond the built-in calibrations that are on the printer. I just used Bambu's filament along with their profiles for the 0.2 nozzle.
Nice. Are you able to test the 0.4 nozzel at 0.08 but with the print speed of the 0.2 nozzel test you did? Id be interested to see the difference then. Cheers.
I love my BL printer and have had it since the company launch. I've printed some pretty great miniatures on them too. I still would not recommend FDM printing for solely miniature printing just because FDM printing is still so limited in what kind of miniatures it can print. The miniatures really need to be created with FDM printing in mind. Poses need to take account of supports which produce ugly bottom surfaces. It's just really limiting on what kind of miniatures you can print out whereas with resin, you can print out any miniature regardless of how it was designed.
I will say that I still prefer my minis that were printed by my BL printer. The miniatures that work with FDM printing look really nice, are easy to print, and best of all, are not as fragile as standard resin so you don't need to be as carefil when board gaming or ttrpging.
You could probably save some time on the prints and get as good quality with the variable layer settings, Especially on the tiles. It will use bigger layer heights on smoother parts and shorter heights on the more detailed parts.
Can you provide sourced for all of the minis you shown? They all look so good!
Sure! Here are some links.
Brite Minis: makerworld.com/en/@briteminis
Darkwing: makerworld.com/en/models/168509?from=search#profileId-185972
Teirale Miniatures: www.printables.com/@Teirale
Death x Tiles: www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-dungeon-set-free-starter-pack-369783
Regarding FDM vs SLA it also depends a lot on the design. There are miniatures which seem designed for FDM and are less detailed while some artists create designs where you see at a glance there's no chance an FDM will ever print that in the intended size.
Can you share your .4 nozzle profile setting?
I have Creality Ender 3 V3 SE, can I change the nozzle to 2mm???
I wasn't able to find an official 0.2 nozzle from Creality for that printer. I've seen some on AliExpress, but I don't know if they'll work.
Really great video but I would have disclosed that the models you printed are designed to be supportless.
Bambu lab printers get great quality out of the box but I have found it almost impossible to get good results on the supported surfaces.
I dont know if you would encounter different results but I find that it is an important consideration when comparing resin and fdm printing
Supports have been my bane on the 0.2mm nozzles. Every time I've tried to print something that requires them, it messes up at least 1 part, usually more. I haven't yet figured out a setting that makes them do their job well enough. It's pretty frustrating.
I wish you had also printed that Wonder Woman figure on 0.4 at 0.08mm layer height for comparison. I think something that large would still look fantastic at that layer height.
Nevertheless, the information about the layer height is missing or not?
The comparison of normal to Silk PLA would have been interesting.
I had high hopes for my 0.2 nozzle on the A1 Mini but first layers were awful. The z-offset didn't properly compensate for the thinner layer lines so after about 20 failed prints I finally managed to get a first layer by setting the first layer flow to 200% but overall it was a disappointing experience after 0.4 just worked.
Sorry to hear that. The experience was seamless for me. Did you change to the 0.2 profile in Bambu Studio and change the nozzle to 0.2 in the printer parts section of the slicer?
@@FigureFeedback Yes, and everything else worked well, just the first layer was a nightmare.
Maybe I missed it in the video:
Which layer's heights did you use with the nozzles? I wonder what would change printing 0.08 on both nozzles, in terms of quality and time.
I used 0.08 for the 0.4 nozzle and 0.06 for the 0.2 nozzle. I wanted to test them both at their highest quality to compare.
I have a 0.2 nozzle and finally desist to make a multicolor Vault Boy (from Fallout) figure. I tried 4 o 5 times and always I got extrusor tangle filament and another hand I had 0 problems with 0.4 nozzle instead. Maybay the problem it's the constants filament change, i don't know. I will try again the 0.2 nozzle with another smaller and one color figure
Hmm, I think I’ll get a 0.2 for player characters, but just stick with the 0.4 for everything else, I don’t like doubling print times.
I might have missed it, as I'm multitasking while watching/listening to this, but how does the nozzle size affect the printing speed? I would assume that it would make your prints take longer, right? Great comparison, by the way!
Think 8 bit vs 16 and so on. More lines take longer to print. A .4 can put down a .2 line. So a .2 nozzle can put down a .1 line. Poke back if that is clear for you.
FYI other factors come into play as well. Ironing, outside in, ZTE jump, print speed, wet filament, crap filament.....
I have to admit that I’m really surprised how close to resin printing the mini is. I only have an FDM printer and use it mainly for terrain.
@9:15 i mean.. normal resin profiles are 0.05 layers and you said bambu is 0.06 so it IS a larger layer height.
You should have set the layer height for the 0.4 mm nozzle the same as for the 0.2 mm so you can see what difference the actual nozzle diameter makes. In this comparison you don't know which improvements you got from the small nozzle and which you got from the smaller layer height.
Not possible in this scenario. The goal was to print them at the lowest layer height possible with the highest quality profile for each specific nozzle to see the differences. The 0.4 can't go as low as the 0.2.
NERD ALERT!!!.... just kidding. Great video! Great comparison. Appreciate your take. Sold me on the A1 with 0.2. I won't give resin a second thought now. I don't care about miniatures, but I hate layer lines and I don't mind waiting for better results. Sub.
Thanks! 🤓
Różnica IMHO jest zbyt mała, aby przestawić się na dyszę 0,2 mm.
Dysza 0,2 mm często się zatyka i czas drukowania jest dłuższy.
Thanks for the comparison, but I think I will(someday in the future)bite the bullet, and get a resin printer. The difference is too much like day and night.
Thanks informative and really interesting…. Laurie. NZ.
fdm has come on leaps and bounds, the mini looks great. but.... if you took 2000 points worth of wargame army, how would it compare to a professionally painted Games Workshop product? in the mini hobbyists world, thats the standard (that most people fail to achieve) and dry brushing (a fundamental mini painting skill) would accentuate every layer imperfection and join. Again the print looks great and a sanded and polished one off statue for the mantlepiece it can compete but its not ready to take on resin in the mini arena...
RIP Formlabs
I think you convinced me to use the 0.2mm nozzle for terrain. However, I think you picked poor models for a comparison with resin. Your minis have hardly any detail and overhangs. FDM is much more of a PITA to post-process supports than Resin as well which you do not mention. I have a X1C and a Concepts3D Athena Resin Printer, the difference between the two in print quality is like night and day. I will be using my X1C for terrain, statues, and larger vehicle models, but even with a 0.2mm nozzle I wouldnt use it for minis. You simply cannot beat resin in speed and print quality. If you lack the ability to ventilate your workspace and dont have proper PPE, I would say you are better off with FDM though, it certainly has cheaper consumables.
They are still far apart. I don't know what resin printer or model you used, but resin printer can go way higher than that. I had a comparison printer with .2 nozzle and It's pretty good, but it is still night and day
That may be true for your model, but the example for my model didn't show a massive difference. I'm not saying FDM is on the same level as resin in general because it's not. But people who can't have or don't want resin printers can see how they can still print models with filament that don't look awful.
@@FigureFeedback I totally agree with that, but I think your comparison could be better
Nice video but cmon, resin is the way for detailed stuff like miniatures, FDM can never touch the resin quality. The details in resin will get revealed after the base coat. And of course, these models were not the most detailed. Minis - always resin. Howgh.
I never said FDM was better or at the same level as resin. I said the resin model was better in this particular example with a simple miniature that didn't require supports. I'm not saying every FDM model would be similar to resin on this printer because that's not true. I'm trying to show people that FDM is a viable alternative if they can't or refuse to work with resin. They can still make models that don't look horrible while accepting the tradeoffs.
Yeah... no... For miniatures there's only one true solution! RESIN! :)
it IS A BIG MASSIVE difference when you compare FDM miniatures vs RESIN, hands down buddy ! :) when you prime your minis THEN you will se what a mess the fdm mini is, then there is no comparison at all! sorry for you all, but fdm miniature printing is not so good
You can still make nice miniatures with FDM. They're not as good as resin overall, but they're far from being plain bad.
Thats a huge problem with youtubers displaying models is not priming them at all. You can see the detail way different compared to say a glossy plastic or a matte plastic. But once primed you can see the differences easy
Here's an image of them primed. ibb.co/X8VMzwW
Can't believe folks are still trying to print miniatures on an FDM... even if you can dial it in and get a somewhat compariable result - you are printing a SINGLE MINI in 2 hours where you can print an entire plate (15-20) of those same minis on a Resin printer in half the time... with superior quality too. Sorry.. FDM is just not good for minis.
It's not about which method is superior. It's about having options. Some people can't, or refuse to work with resin. This shows them they can still be a part of the hobby. Sure, it's a tradeoff on quality and time, but it's still a viable option.
sorry bro, but there's no point of comparison between fdm and resin, the diference is huge.
I'm not into minifigures but I think the easy swap nozzles are a greater improvements compared to other printers than the AMS. I have my A1 for a bit over a week and I've been swapping between 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6 depending on whether I wand details or speed. I've hesitated so often with my Prusa Mini to swap nozzles because of how much work in involved.
I know what you mean. Changing nozzles on the Neptune 4 Plus is a combination of removing tiny screws, fiddling with wires and whipping out the pliers and socket screwdriver.