Ford 5.4L Broken Spark Plug Removal.... Don’t Panic, It’s Easy with Lisle 65600
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- čas přidán 2. 12. 2019
- How to remove broken spark plugs Ford 5.4 3 valve.
Pulled used in video: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
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There’s a link in the description for this tool if you are interested! It’s super cheap !
so whats the rings for?
So you left part of the metal tip that broke off into the cylinder. Look at the tip of the first plug, half of the lower part is gone. The ceramic piece broke it off being pushed down?
A bore scope into the piston for foreign metal bits seemed reasonable.
@@IndyTiger1050would a magnet pen get that chunk of metal out of there? I would need to be 1000% no metal is in the cylinder before anything!!!😮
That tool should have come in the glove box of every new Ford.
Right right on brother speak💯🤞🏿
Just did plug change on my 5.4 thank god somebody done been in it had new style 1 piece plugs and lots of anti seize on them 6 out of the 8 were just hand tight took little over an hour but the what I though was going to be a nightmare turned out pretty easy thank you whoever was a descent mechanic for the never seize
Very helpful! Just bought a 06 triton and am doing plugs soon on it! Thanks for the awesome videos guys!
I’m a school bus diesel tech and never had to use this tool but I will for sure look into this just for future reference. Join trucking you do awesome videos definitely need to get one or 2 of those diesel medic shirts and hats!!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I was literally sick to my stomach 20 minutes ago! After watching this video, I feel much better!
Glad it helped!
Just replaced spark plugs 05 expidition, motor craft .044 gap, 14mm deep well socket, 2/8 air rachet 90^, 30 foot lbs with light anti-sese . 5.4 3 valve runs perfect.
You guys are awesome!!!!!!!!
Now I feel confident trying it
Ford guy told me to run engine and get it nice and hot then remove one side, start engine and get it hot again and do the other side. works for me wont have nearly as much problems. tip of the day in case you never tried it. thanks
Just had to do 6 out of 8 on Sunday. Horrible design. The lisle removal tool is a beast. Still was an all day job. Can't stand working on Ford's.
Hello sir I have a question how did the truck run or behave when six of the eight plugs were did it not want to go over a certain speed limit or anything like such?? I just bought a navigator 5.4 and need to know if broken plugs would cause it to not want to drive or have no power ? It does have one I seen that’s broken coil is not connected it has no power and won’t go over twenty mph and is back firing and shot out some white smoke
I've run into a few of those and thank god for Lisle, the tool works good for this job. I usually get the call for mobile repairs when someone tries to change their own plugs to save money and they end up calling me to fix it
So if someone uses that removal tool and breaks the metal tip and falls into cyclinder, how do u get it out????😮😮 nightmare
I’m looking at doing this in the near future. Thanks for the thorough explanation.
This tool is the bomb it was my life saver and was money well spent buying this tool
Great use of Anti-seize ; thanks for thinking of the "next guy" !
Its not the threads that get siezed its the tip that protrudes past the threads i broke 3 at work yesterday and its always in the back cylinders where the temps are higher at least thats my theory
Good video clay u have to love the tritons places around here charge 90 a hole for broken plug in them it’s crazy I do them on the side all the time I did some one day on lunch break
Great how-to video, guys! Saved me a bundle! 👍
Man I really have been stressing over this .
I pull two out and I broke it .
I’m gonna try it I’ll let you know thank you so much
it helps to get the motor warm and use a half inch impact
Great informative video Clay!!
Great video y'all have a good one and stay safe 👍
Thanks for this video! We have a 2010 F-150. I've always heard stories of how awful the sparkplugs are. That was after we replaced them! Now I see from your video what they were talking about. Those sparkplugs are weird looking. They didn't look anything like the ones we pulled out or put in. Ford must have updated the part.
That's because those plugs were an issue from 2004- to early Nov. 2007. After that there was a design change with the head AND the plugs went from a 2 piece design to a 1 piece. Terrible design on Ford's part but most of thier stuff is. We've got a 2007 with a Nov. 2006 engine... 82k miles... someone had already swapped the problem factory plugs out with some snake oil BS E3 Diamondfires. Crap plugs that barely make 30k miles before the gap is horribly excessive causing misfires and smoking coils... problem we have right now is one plug has welded itself in place from oxidation and another that did the same but broke leaving only the threaded shell welded in the head.
I had one that was looking like I had to pull the a plug that broke but saved on that to buy the toll to pull the plug that broke.
Found also a low compression on the same side to find out that one of the 3 valves actually was broken.
Saved me from buying a plug removal tool. I did how ever had to buy a new compression tester my cheap one and not fit and the fitting dose not fit my cheap one.
But I am looking at getting that tool anyway. I have had several 3 valve with really tight spark plugs but have had the ability to remove with out braking them
Nice, I have heard about that problem with those engines. I am defiantly ordering that kit. Thanks!
There’s a link to it super cheap in the video description
Thankya much! Love the content, and the accent! Merry Christmas from the Brau family all the way up here in Wisconsin!!
Thanks for watching! I truly appreciate it. merry Christmas to your family also
I've own that tool for years and used it 4 times , we do an induction clean to clean the carbon first and I zip the plugs out with my 3/8 impact with the engine warm
Awesome job guys!!!
Asked a local shop how much to change my plugs in my Ford f150. $300 plus $150 for each plug that brakes. I'm getting this tool and trying myself. Thanks for the video
This very was a great help!!! Thank you!
Thanks for the video guys.
Very handy piece of information. Yes sir.!!
Sweet video, very helpful 💯you guys are cool as hell too 😎
Great Video Thanks!
Just bought a 06 F150 5.4L and
I'm about to change my plugs and though I'd better see how you take out broken one's lmao.🤪
Thanks from 🇨🇦
Great how to tutorial . 👍
Thank you straight to the point and helpful thanks
Definitely good tool, and a good video!!
Bought a lilse knockoff and the puller part wouldent bite into the plug sleeve that was stuck in the head. I used 5/16" thread rod and JB Weld to bond thread rod n broken plug together. It pulls out beautifully.
Awesome tools awesome lisle company
Great video! Thanks
saving lives of 05-08 f150's and mustangs one plug at a time, them 08 revisions were like heaven sent
This just happened to me tonight, as I was doing the spark plugs on my 06 mustang GT. Ordering the tool now and hopefully have it by Saturday.
Just did plugs on 06 f350 v10 . has same looking plugs , does this engine have that same problem. Didn't know this problem till now.
I always go back with Champion plugs, they are the only ones who make a one piece plug for the 3 valve, they designed it and own the patent and it eliminates the problem completely.
We re do i find tha plug you are talking about i do not want to go back whit these plugs
Champions are part number 7989.
However, as far as them being the only ones to make a 1 piece plug... not true.
Motorcraft updated is SP546
Autolite has the HT-15
Then there are junk E3 plugs that barely do 30k miles before the gap is HUGE and starts smoking the coils.
I like the Lisle stuff. Ive have several tools from them and they’re of good quality and were an affordable price.
Thank you gentleman great video
Great video guys thanks !!!!!!
Y'all made it look easy
Good video Clay.
Very nice, thanks for the info
Thanks y'all, this was maybe the best vid out there on fixing this bad design flaw. But you forgot to put an Amazon link in the descrip. for the Dr. Pepper. Am about to buy an '04 E-350 / 5.4L van (but only has 95K mi., so prob. still the factory-orig. plugs), to turn into a campervan, and replacing these plugs is priority #1. Fingers crossed the other vids out there on how to carefully get them out withOUT them breaking will keep me from needing this tool, but good to know how, if I do. But first I gotta fix that OTHER, earlier, Triton spark plug problem on an '00 4.6L Econoline I own, then sell it: the blown-out-of-the-head plug, with the CalVan tool & inserts. Was a diesel/truck mechanic myself, like, a hundred years ago, now in completely different line of work, but have subscribed just for the entertainment value ---you all seem like the kinda guys I would enjoy just hanging around the garage with.
these dudes are awesome!
Always been hella intimidated by this job. Now I see it as a hell of a payday with the lisle tool
Another great video!
I do like the dull finish on the tools.. should show the ratcheting serpentine belt tool in action is it worth money
Great video I've also seen people use a shop vac to clean out the cylinder after the plug is removed to get out all the debris and have also seen people just turn the ignition key after the plug is out to blow out the debris before installing the new plug
does that work or will it get sucked back in?
Got to have the right tools for the right job
Lisle makes some pretty handy tools.
Thanks for the video
The irony is that this, blown out plugs and timing chain sets that werent able to last 50k miles was such a common Ford V8 problem, yet Jaguars from the Ford/same era are some of the easiest engines Ive ever done plugs on. In nearly 2 decades I cannot remember a single broken and siezed plug (they didnt use this design thankfully), and it wasnt horribly often you had to replace coils unless a valve cover leaked and soaked the boot causing it to short out since rich folks drove them 300 more miles with the CEL flashing for good measure. Those jags all used motorcraft parts and we routinely bought parts from the Ford or Lincoln dealers on the same street when we needed something same day that was out of stock at our dealer. Even the timing chains on the Jag V8's, while a fairly common repair, were way more reliable than the Ford V8's, and could be changed so easily (usually 3-4 hr job on an XJ if it was running just rattling) with a $100 cam alignment kit if you wanted your own instead of waiting for the shop's tool to come available.
I went to put timing chains on my 2005 V8 Lincoln Aviator and they cost 2x what the Jaguar parts did, in addition to I had blown 3 of the plugs out over the last 6 months, and knew the rest would prob break off (the only reason they dont blow out is theyre stuck in on Fords) while I was changing them since I was in there. I just traded that dog in on a Dodge Ram instead!
I have 2010 I gotta do plugs on. Great video
Whole different ball of wax with 2010.
Ford had "corrected" their mistake by late 2007.
Very important, do everything BY HAND, no impact !!!
That's quite helpful thanks, but aren't you afraid the white porcelain part may break in small pieces or a little small chips from it may fall in the cylinder? Please advice. I have the tool and will attempt doing that stuff tomorrow. Thanks
When I saw the Dr Pepper I was gonna say you need one but you said it right after lol.
But dam good video man love it 🥂💯
Any suggestions if you strip the metal shell with the Lisle extractor. I messed up and over tightened it
Seems like most specialty tools are for Fords.
I'm wondering if just special tools buy Ford's LOL
You ever had to use a 34mm hex head for a oil filter cartridge replacement...yea thanks Chevy
Built Ford Rust
@@geeruger4279 Try Toyota. You need a 90mm special filter adapter...
5.5mm socket. Bullshit
Hey Wally is just so misunderstood a bit like Dr Pepper!! P.s think he needs an update on that big toothed clicking ratchet!!
Another great video guys👍👍👍
Got it! I have a 2006 F-250 with 59,000 miles on it. I broke the rear one that seems like its up under the driver's seat.
Got the Lisle tool, watched here how it's done, and it was a textbook extraction.
Awesome. Glad this helped you out
@Bill Haggard There wasn't any. The top part of the plug snaps off clean.
The tool pushes the center piece of porcelain down a little farther into the front part of the plug.
The tool works sort of like a glorified 'easy out' does for broken off bolts.
Before lisle came out with those tools as per TSB it was panic time by the way Ha!
Worked for ford for 8+ years. Never had this happen. Just used a impact gun to take the plugs out. 0 issues
Ok boomer.
Thanks man!!!!
Thank You!
Can you spray some wd 40 i or another lubricant IN ports and let it soak before getting them out? should make them less likely to snap.
Just used this tool on my 2005 F-150. Works like a charm!
I heard if you run the engine for a good while to get it hot, these spark plugs tend to come out better. Especially if you use 1/2" impact on them. I didn't try this due to my paranoia of potentially cracking the heads when you do pull the plugs out of a hot engine. Anyone else try this to success?
I use my 3/8” impact but that works
Did you guys use any type of carb cleaner to break down the carbon on the spark plugs before taking them out?
Trust me y'all this tool is a dream a must have just pay close attention to how it's used save you a world of headache n pain
it left pieces in the cylinder? the metal casing end is missing some
Saved me!
Please help I have a seed spark plug in a 2008 Honda Accord EXL V6 would this method work for my make an model?
Will this work on my 2006 mustang gt ? Same issue with broken plug
Ty fellaz
That's an easy one mine broke off on #8 cylinder and left the electrode in definatly was a nightmare but finally got it out.
Once again I guess you didn’t watch the video all the way to the end ! 🤣
I've done that job way too many times. I use Loctite 77164 Nickel Anti-Seize when I put them back in. It cost a little more than the Permatex 80078 but I believe it was worth it if they don't get stuck and break off for the next guy changing the plugs.
I have a question for mechanics out there that know what they are talking about. I had a mechanic tell me the extraction tool is only good for a couple plug removals then he has to buy a new tool so my cost to replace the plugs could go up if he breaks more than a couple plugs. Seems like a good way for a mechanic to get me to buy him a new tool or to just make extra money. What do you guys think?
@@A.C.71 I have used mine a few times and I see no wear on the tool that I recommended. I would just use a different mechanic if I got that excuse for the cost of the job. These plugs are notorious for breaking and you never know how many, if any, are going to break. And what if the ones that break are # 7 and 8. Those are the worst ones that can't eat up time to get out. That being said how do you price a job and be fair to the customer and your business? This is why the price can be high to replace 8 sparkplugs. If you have any mechanical skills you can replace your plugs. Follow the instructions that come with the tool and maybe watch a couple of videos on CZcams and you should be fine. If on the other hand you don't have any skills or get angry when things go wrong DON'T do this yourself.
@@ecleveland1 after watching fordtechmakaloco showing how you can even break the extraction tool and have to drill out the plug. and even possible to have to remove the head if all goes horribly wrong...well that isn't helping in wanting to take this on myself. problem is finding someone that is competent when all mechanics generally say they know how to do it...even the guys that tear up stuff say this.
Your mech isn't exactly yanking your chain about the tool. It does indeed have a threaded wear item and they do wear down. How many plugs? Well that sorta depends on how aggressive you have to get with it. With the Lisle tool you don't have to replace everything, the particular threaded part can be purchased by itself. Because like I said, it is concidered a wear item... kinda like brake pads, clutches, batteries, wiper blades. Once it's used up to where it can no longer grab the broken plug it's time to replace it.
Love ❤️ it
What do you do when the left handed extractor will not bite the sleeve. Ive bought two complete tools. It tries to bite with just finger tight, but when you try to tighten it up just wont bite feels like it strips.
Soak mine with pb blaster for 2 days boom done and of course the coils
This was a really bad design and that tool from lisle is magic
Just got me one f150 an its has this same problem but thanks for showing me how to getit out tha only were do i rent this tool at cant find it no were
You can buy the tool off Amazon
Ok thanks alot im followings you an im share your videos on my fb an tiktok thanks alot
so what do you do when the tread for the spark plug is stuck down in there?
Nice
What about the chunks of ceramic in the cylinder?
You and I have Joked about this before Clay. #4 and #8 seem to always break.
I smear that nickle antiseize to within a 1/2 inch of the tip.
james U try copper, higher temp rating.
@@ChaseLandMgmt ????
Copper anti seize. It has a higher temp rating than Nickel. Works better for high heat applications.
@@ChaseLandMgmt I don't think so?? at least not from CRC or Permatex. Copper is rated below 2000F and Nickel is rated to 2600F. I have been using it on turbo hardware for decades. Either should work as long as you spread it down the tip. The threads don't seize, the tip does. Copper can react with stainless as well.
Huh, the loctite brand of anti seize gives the temperature advantage to copper.
Going to do plugs next week...ran can of seafoam thru it at 1/4 tank of fuel and going to use pb blaster on plugs and get motor hot...factory plugs and 100,000 miles wish me luck.
Good luck! Maybe but this tool so you won't need it... 😂
@@scott1708 thanks but it went terrible and bought this tool used it twice and the threads got smashed....rented another one same exact tool numbers and had 4 lines on the tool used that one 6 times and nothing happened to it...so the one I bought must not of got tempered right!! My fucking luck!
So if the plug brakes off but the electrode or pin does not come out with it what should be done.
Thanks a lot guys I never knew how or what broke now I know thanks again
Any advice if you strip out the spark plug tip and the lisle tool won't bite? Im thinking of applying some Jb weld or Locitite 680 to the end of the lisle tool and let it set before trying again.
That’s about all you can do
Ever any problems with broken bits of spark plug getting into the cylinder and scoring the walls?
Can my 97 Ford 5.4L have this same issue? Or is a different Triton?
Ty
How do you remove the broken plug tip pieces from inside the cylinder?
I hope the guy that invented those, is a rich man. I'm hitting my tool truck guy up Tuesday!
There’s a link in the description to order it off Amazon, super cheap !
@@KoonTrucking I saw that after I posted. I should have looked first. You always take care of the fans
@@KoonTrucking or support Joe's business and order it from him.
Make sure the jiggly bits that come off the broken spark plugs are removed from the cylinder via compressed air before putting new plugs back in or you’ll toast the entire engine.
I always use a 1/2 inch titanium impact with a 3/8 to 1/2 swivel adapter with a small 1/2 inch extension at full send... that seems to be the best method for getting those plugs out without breaking.. still have some break here and there though... do you guys use an impact or try running an induction service or spraying down the holes with penetrating oil? What is your preference
We get them hot and it then with an impact usually works just fine but this one was still factory plugs in it with over 150k miles