Block Sanding Concave/Convex Body Lines & Fixing Low Spots
Vložit
- čas přidán 19. 11. 2020
- An in depth, detailed look at how to block sand difficult areas that include convex / concave body lines and low spots / areas that need to be addressed. The next video will be painting this panel with Nason BC/CC.
Red Putty: www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glaz...
Sanding Board: www.autobodytoolmart.com/prod...
Primer: Autobody Master Lacquer Primer 1 gal Gray from local Auto Value auto parts store
Primer gun: Devilbiss MBC with 1.8mm tip. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
It has been a long time since CZcams recommended something useful for me. Great video and I just subscribed. It looks like I have a bunch of old videos to binge. Thanks.
That's good to hear - thanks. I think you'll find a lot of good info here :)
My son & I used the 2k high build urethane primer on his 55 chevy p.up & urethane paint, for the money guys u can't beat it ! Its been 7 years, and looks like the day it was painted ! Primed and blocked several times ! 👍😁
👍😊
Great demo. Im always tempted to sand with my hand. And do the entire area at once. This is a smarter aproach
Thanks :)
Thanks for all the good advice Jerry!
You're welcome - have a good week :)
Great advice Jerry as always, like the trick with the masking tape, thanks for posting 👍🏻 stay safe.
Thanks 👍 - you too. I'm thinking we'll be out of the woods after the new president takes over. We'll see the vaccine then - maybe. Take care.
Thank you for the video Jerry very informative keep safe
You too good to hear from you always :)
im workin on a 63 jeep gladiator j2000. has a few rust spots. this will help me achieve my goal . thanks for the videos
You're welcome my friend :)
Nice work Jerry as always...have a good weekend!
Amen
Thanks 👍 - you too - decide on a spray gun yet?
@@LakesideAutobody I haven’t decided yet but I’m gonna check with my supplier next week
Great work!
Thank you - glad you liked it. You'll see it painted next in the next video :)
Hi. I'm about to start blocking a similar vehicle today. thanks for the tips. Another good video. AL
You're welcome - glad you liked it - have a good weekend :)
O
Man good stuff! Keep it coming.
Thanks - have a good weekend :)
Good stuff Bud!!☺
Thanks 👍
Good stuff! However I work in a Body Shop and most times don’t have the time to prime more than once. So I usually try to block my body work as good as I can then I give the whole area a coat of polyester then block sand and finally a coat of high build primer
Polyester primer - like Featherfill? I used to use it quite a bit at a shop that used it - I think I abused it though and started to rely on it too much . You probably know what I mean :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yes I do know what you mean. But no not feather fill. That’s an old trick we used to use on old cracked paint jobs to avoid stripping and priming the whole car. No I was referring to polyester body glaze like dolphin 🐬 glaze or Porpoise Putty. It’s that very thin high self leveling finishing glaze to help alleviate pin holes and the course surface of the body filler.
@@leonardceres9061 That'd be real handy for hail damage I suppose - Happy TG to you and your family :)
For my Ram wheel well panel, I was a bit concerned about my Bondo feathered out over my paint ( paint prep cleaner and a used 80'ish grit before bondo touched it) It looks like you have some bondo over paint here..... I watched your video of a ding repair with Bondo too and figured I could do this with my new wheel panel install. I'm using the Bondo brand automotive pink stuff and it seems harder than your stuff. I got this feeling after watching one of your block sanding videos.
It's OK if you get a little filler on the paint as long as the paint has been DA'd or hit with the grinder. Bondo brand filler is OK - just remember.... if you are working too hard your need to use a sharper tool. Start with the cheese grater, then use a brand new sheet of 36 or 40 grit on a block or the bondo hog. This vid might help with knocking down your filler fast - czcams.com/video/fnfoVf4fKoc/video.html
Doing this on my cousins 99 NBS chevy lol been doing body work for about 4 years started in high school 2016 and have my own shop now 2020
That's great to hear - good luck with your shop. Let me know how it's going now and then :)
Appreciate the videos Jerry. Very informative and straight to the point. I noticed you don't have many videos painting plastic bumper covers. Do you have any tips? I'll be using the purple harbor freight gun and painting a preprimed eBay bumper cover as well as a bare plastic lip. Any insight is much appreciated. Thank you
Both front and back bumpers were new on this car. czcams.com/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/video.html Just scuff with something like these - I use the red: www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/mirka-mirlon-total-scuff-pads then paint - don't need primer. You don't need a flex additive and don't use a DA because you can easily go through the light coat of primer that is already on the bumper and then it sort of roughs up the plastic making little nibs and rough spots that show up when painted. If you need more info feel free to ask - Thanks BTW
@@LakesideAutobody As for the bare plastic lip, do you use any adhesion promotor? Then primer over the promotor? Again, greatly appreciate your help.
Good Info Jerry. I am getting ready to start block sanding the old Model A rounded fenders. What advise do you have on block sanding such round fenders with several transitions from round to a cove to flat? Them being painted black, I need to have them as perfect as possible. Thank you sir and have a wonderful weekend. Tom
All I've ever blocked with is the short little common rubber block, medium board like in this video, and a long board. I've also used a DA quite a bit 6 or 5 inch pad - doesn't rally make a diff. I took a look at the Model A and I think you would do fine with the rubber block: www.harborfreight.com/4-78-in-soft-rubber-sanding-block-69574.html? and the medium length board (this vid). Rounded fenders will block out fine using either board. Some folks might suggest a block that bends durablock) but that's up to you. I don't like them because they bend as I like my board to stay nice and straight - I can get the round stuff with the way I sand. Let me know how it goes and what you end up using. Always good to hear from you - thanks. Jerry
Question
How does one know when enough block sanded on last prime before you paint?
I have most of these vids saved and I will start revisit them so all these tips sink in. Keep up great work and thank you
The best way to determine that is to use a guide coat. There are two types of guide coats, wet or dry. A wet guide coat is simply a contrasting color of spray paint misted over the primer. I'm sure you can find a CZcams video on guide coats. If you have gray primer, you can just use a black can of cheap enamel. Make sure it is dry before you sand or it will gum up your paper. There are specific "guide coat" paints you can buy at an auto body distributor such as SEM but they are pricey and a can of cheap spray enamel will do just as good. You can order a dry guide coat from amazon or ebay which is essentially a graphite powder that you rub over the area. Which ever method you choose, you sand until the guide coat is gone. If you have small areas of guide coat remaining, those indicate the low spots where more filler or primer is needed. Conversely, if you sand a spot down to bare metal, that indicates a high spot that needs to be tapped down. I recommend sanding to 400 grit (but no more than 600) before top coating. You can get by with 320 for solid colors but with metallic colors I would go to 400.
Such a good question. You are done when you have no low spots showing and no high spots showing - and it's all sanded down to the grit you are using at the time - (no un-sanded primer surfacer). Like Ray said, you can use a guide coat - see this video: czcams.com/video/itEzOW8Knzs/video.html I'll do a video on what you're asking - again good question. If you're not clear ask some more questions - Jerry
Buy a can of Matt black spray paint. The cheapest you can find. Light guide coat and block it off.
I bought a gallon of acrylic primer/surfacer and intend to use it, but i see so much opposition to laquer primer??? Are they confusing the old nitro-c primer with acrylic?
Other sources say it causes cracking, lifting, cant use it with 2k paint, and on and on.
Now i'll be using a single stage paint, should i stick with acrylic paint with the acrylic primer?
I am spending a lot of time on the old fox body panels and really dont want to have paint issues later on.
And one last set of questions:
How long can the panels stay in primer?
And should i use a sealer just prior to painting for best results?
Thanks
Remember, 2k primers became popular around the 90's till present. There were thousands of wonderful paint jobs in the 20th century. Lacquer primer is all I used at the shops I worked in until the 90's and the paint held up just fine. The problem is when folks use a ton of it to hid poor body work or sand scratches. If you do your body work right and you use the primer correctly you will never have a problem. That being said, If you want to bury imperfections, scratches, low spots, crummy body work then you'll want to use 2k urethane primer surfacer or a product called feather fill which is polyester primer (basically body filler that sprays). It's your choice though - All automotive primers work great if you use them correctly - that's the truth - don't listen to the negativity about lacquer primer. Again, that's all there was for a whole century :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the fast response. Just came in from the garage for the night. Nope, no shortcuts or spray bondo, tonight i was going over some work with a wand light hitting up little scratches and shallow imperfections with red glazing putty. Although it wont be a show car when i'm done, i am trying to make it look as sharp as i can and do every step patiently a bit at a time. Really takes some solid commitment to see it thru day after day, but i'm enjoying the process
@@BearBudgetTurbine Good to hear. Now after you get the body work where you like it, give it 3 nice coats of lacquer primer waiting 5 or so minutes between coats and you'll have something really nice to block sand. After block sanding and getting that perfect, you can give it a couple of coats of thinner lacquer primer and now you have something to finish sand. You can paint over that finish sanded primer or seal it and paint. Let me know how it goes for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody well, i sprayed the front clip of the Mustang today with the acrylic laquer primer and it turned out real nice. Dried fast, covered well, and sands nicely. I did 3 coats as you recommended. Price is a affordable, it goes a long way, and it has a longer window of use than 2k. So far, i'm sold on it. Now i can only hope my experience later this year with single stage acrylic enamel goes as well 🤞 that will be another first for me as ive only uses 2 part paints so far. I've watched your videos on single stage and will probably revisit them again.
@@BearBudgetTurbine I would look into the Nason brand single stage called Nason Ful-Cryl it's much easier to spray than the cheaper single stage paints like TCP Restoration Shop or Paint for Cars Trinity - It sprays out real nice and lays flat - relatively inexpensive too. Just my thoughts. TCP Global is not bad either but you'll have to reduce it quite a bit to get it to spray nice. Glad to hear the lacquer primer worked for you. 2K is great - don't get me wrong - just know that lacquer primer works and is cheaper. Keep me updated - love to hear about the project :) BTW here's a vid on the Nason Ful-Cryl - they also have single stage urethane called ful-thane - never used it though. Jerry
Hackety hack don't come back, red spot putty, probably laquer primer!! Welcome to dinosaur dent works, what a old hack, definitely not icar or a.s.e.certs. in there
You can use what ever materials you prefer - I choose to use these to keep costs down for people and they work just as well if you know what you are doing. I've been MOCAC certified to teach auto body repair since 1989 but that means nothing really. What really means the most is can you do the work - can you fix anything czcams.com/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/video.html. Please see this video for longevity of these repairs if done correctly: czcams.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/video.html or
czcams.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/video.html
If you keep fixing the rust on that truck she's gonna forget she's in michigan
It's a nice truck actually - deserves to be saved.
I personally don't use spot pudy it shrinks and and so dose laq primer .that's stuff is a thing of the past using urethane paint over it causes sand scratches and not compatible inless your using urethane primer .I use metal glaze it don't shrink or Crack if used properly. I understand your just showing guys how to fix there own auto cheap as possible at home .but I would do more masking I don't like over spray on my bumper bracket and core support and side of head lamp lol .not being a azz I can tell u know what your doing but show them the right way with the right method of materials to repair it properly if they choose to fix it right inless it's just car lot work
Sold this truck to my friend a year ago - earliest vid on this truck is 5 years old now. Still looks perfect - czcams.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/video.html All methods found on this channel work fine if you follow the accepted rules of a body shop.