How To Install A Sub Panel Next To Existing Main Panel
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 06. 2024
- Calculate Solar Panel Cost For Your Home - www.solarreviews.com/solar-es...
Demands on our home electrical system is steadily increasing. This means we are filling all of the space in our main electrical panel and that will limit the electrical appliances you can install, getting EV charging at home, or make installing solar panels a more expensive proposition. I will show you what is involved when installing a Square D QO 125 AMP Sub Panel right next to my existing main electrical panel.
Cost estimate to hire this job: everydayhomerepairs.com/cost-...
WAGO 221 Inline Splices: amzn.to/3nvQWXY
Subpanel Installation video for detached garage: • How To Install A Garag...
Chapters
0:00 Project Setup
1:12 Positioning The Subpanel
4:17 Connecting Conduit Between Main Panel and Subpanel
7:21 Mounting The Subpanel
8:44 Why I am Installing This Subpanel = Solar Panels
9:58 Moving Circuit Breakers and Running Wire
14:30 Validating The Wiring
"D-I-Wire" T-Shirts: everyday-home-repairs.creator...
Join Our Community on Patreon: / everydayhomerepairs
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. - Jak na to + styl
My Favorite Solar Panel Cost Estimator - www.solarreviews.com/solar-estimator?aff=66965&cam=713
I was hopeful that I could find an estimator without having to sign up for endless solar calls and spam. Sadly, THIS is not that estimator.
What if there is no place to put the neutral in the main panel?
Great Video. Two things I would do different. Torque all of the terminations. and add some white tape on the neutral.
Nice additions, thanks for the feedback 👍
I was definitely looking for the white neutral or some other indication.
Yep! Mark those wires. I like to mark one of the lines for 240V with red tape too
I would use a green ground screw to attach to the ground bar to the subpanel itself .
You make it look easy, which, I think, is the point. You instill confidence. Thank you!
I did something similar n my old house, I added a 50amp breaker in a new panel, connected it with a metal conduit. Both panels were the same size so I covered everything and it had 2 doors that opened out exposing both. The doors came off the wall about 1 1/2” and across the top was a 2x4 that was about 2” higher than the panels, but far enough away, that you could connect metal conduit (code in my area) without damaging or cutting anything. I also had a dropped ceiling so anything could be easily added anywhere.
In my current home I added a 50amp sub panel in the garage, before I finished the basement. The panel was added for a welder and more power in the garage. This panel was sent in like yours and a plywood cover and small door for the welder plug-in. Thanks, your video’s are always wonderful and helpful. God bless you!
This is a great video. I'm having a solar system installed and my electrical panel is maxed out, so this was exactly what I needed to know.
Great video - very clear and well produced, thank you!
Excellent video. One of the best diy channels out there.
Thanks, I appreciate the support 👍
Great video! I will be needed to do this in the near future, as my existing panel is at capacity.
This is a great video, very well explained and very educative. This is great, keep it up bro.
wow, that's it? I was expecting a lot more. Explanation was clear and concise, very easy to understand
For sure, happy to help!
Thanks for this video I had a sub panel professionally installed when I bought my 60 yo house 10 years ago. I do a lot of my own single circuit stuff but this was a good primer for a panel. Not rocket science but a lot of things you need to be aware of. I will probably never do this job myself, but it was good information for me.
Thanks for the feedback!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I've really enjoyed your videos you do a great job
Super video. Thanks for all your work.
You did a great job bringing the wires to the sub-panel. I did a similar install only I put a 14" metal access panel under the sub panel to give easier access to make future connections.
That’s exactly what I will do! Thanks for sharing
@@DanielinLaTuna Also put a 2 x 4 piece in there about 8" from the box so you can staple the romex that comes out of the box.
Great video! Well done and very informative
I would recommend using a torque wrench/driver. Current code requires it and frankly it is a good idea. I think a lot of people would be surprised on how hard it is to tighten things to the correct torque.
Also to wiggle the stranded main wires a bit and retorque them.
When I worked in a power plant, the electricians used to open each panel once a year and retorque each connection to spec. Couldn’t afford to have any circuits failing and compromising our availability to the grid
@@DanielinLaTuna yeah, I would imagine the heat expansion and cool shrink cycles the wires go through, could cause an issue.
what is the torque required?
@@felixchien1664 I think you can usually see the torque spec on the side of the breaker itself. It can vary from manufacturer to manufacture.
I always used cardboard that went across the lugs for extra protection. Many times had to wire hot due to customer needs. Really easy to cut a scrap piece to fit between the flanges. It's way too easy to forget about those HOT lugs.
Great suggestion, thanks for the feedback!
I put some electrical tape over mine, as a more permanent solution.
@@EverydayHomeRepairsNewer QO and Homeline 150-225A load centers come with plastic lug covers. I don't know about the little panels like the 100-125A ones, though.
I was going to suggest the same... a piece of cardboard.
You can buy heavy duty universal lug covers at HD or Lowes
Thanks for the video. Surprised not to see a whole-panel surge protector.
Yeah, that is on the list for sure 👍
Good job!I've done a few of those after I retired.
Thx Rusty 👍
Thanks for this video. It serves my purpose, but also the other video that you mentioned, about a remote panel, which is what I’m also planning, since only one circuit serves it, and the laundry is located there. The washer and dryer really ought to be on separate circuits, and I have a spare fridge there too, and run either a window A/C or a space heater (summer or winter options).
Also I have a large lot and want to run power to the RV (30 amps), to the shop (another 30 amps), and to the spa/hot tub. Seems like those last three will be supported by one 125 amp sub.
You are really going at it these days. I wish I had your energy and your back and neck. 🤣 Looks like you covered all the bases. I'd be willing to do that kind of work, but it would take me a lot longer because I'd have to take breaks. That is, I have the electrical and electronics experience, but I'm not a professional electrician, and I'd also have to study all the codes to be sure it would all meet spec. Looking forward to the next one. Thanks, Scott.
Thanks for the feedback and the support 🙌
Yeah go ahead and do it yourself and if something happens like a fire because you are too cheap to pay someone who knows what they are doing your liable
I believe it’s code to identify circuits when relocating them such as in this instance. Meaning being able to identify which neutral goes with which hot, both in the main panel and in the sub panel. This is done so that in the future if you ever need one of those circuits on either a GFCI or AFCI breaker, then you be able to do that. Don’t know the exact code article but I was looking into it a few months ago when relocating a main panel and we would put zip ties around the hot/neutral together to identify them as belonging on the same circuit.
In my opinion having the hot neutral and ground coming from the same nm sheathing sufficiently identifies them, and this would apply more to an environment where conduit is used with multiple circuits in each conduit. But I haven't read the code so I'm not sure.
But his extended wires going to the subpanel aren’t in Romex, so identifying them is a good idea.
@@chrisruss7863 the wire he uses from the main panel to the sub panel isn’t romex, he uses thhn. There’s no easy way to identify from the sub panel which neutral belongs to which hot
@donmclean1220 yes but he doesn't bring the neutral into the subpanel, only the hot. So where is he going to identify the wires if not in the main panel, where the romex enters?
@@chrisruss7863 yes he does, in the sub panel for the branch circuits there’s very obviously 2 hot wires and 2 neutral wires. If you’re looking at the sub panel, there’s no way to easily identify which neutral belongs to which hot.
Thank you for the video ! Great job
Great video. I enjoy all your videos
Those Wago butt splices look interesting. Thanks for the tip
Knowledge is power. I know I will not attempt to diy but I have some knowledge and reference to hire a contractor. Thank you for sharing
💯 I am coming to the realization this is a large part of my audience that is why I am starting to work on cost estimators and maybe even a Professional referral system some time in the future. All of us are limited on time and I also hire out certain jobs around the house for various reasons.
@@EverydayHomeRepairsYes, That is why I am here.
I enjoyed it. Great job thank you for your time 👍😎
Happy to help!
In my area (Midwest) pvc conduit is illegal, splices inside the panel are not allowed.
Good video. I’ve done this in my garage. Lookin forward to the solar install. I wanna do all diy
Me too, give me about 2 months and we will get it up and running. First system will be small-ish at about 4.5 kW to get my feet wet.
Great Video! I see you left room in your sub panel to feed in your 6800 watt Schneider Inverter !
Very helpful, thank you.
As long as it passes the smoke test, all is good!
Great information, thank you!
You bet!
I did that years ago, in my case it was a 60 amp breaker to a 12 pole auxiliary box. I mounted it to the lower right side of the main panel and went through the side.
Good job, your the Man, 👍👍
Thanks!
You can also use tray cable or SER to feed the sub panel. That's my preference for sure, must easier to work with.
That spacing you ended up with after cutting everything was absolutely beautiful.
I know it is drastically cheaper using the parts that you did, and that is a big reason even on its own, but why not take this opportunity when needing the subpanel for solar to use a smart panel like Leviton or Span? Being able to get really accurate readings on every circuit in that subpanel is pretty useful for seeing power draw when on battery (if you have one) or from your solar directly. I like the Leviton panel personally since it both looks nice, has indicators positioned so you can see status with the panel door closed, and you can choose specific circuits to be smart and go with cheaper breakers that are not smart for other circuits you don't care about, or the potential to upgrade to a smart breaker whenever you want.
Yeah, I will undoubtedly be jumping into smart panels in the near future. I have been waiting a bit for the products to mature but I know my friend Joel @electricproacademy is a Big fan of SPAN 👍
One suggestion would be to use red electrical tape and white electrical tape on the ends of the wire between the panels.
This will make it easier to diagnose if there a problem with one of the hit phases and make it obvious about which wire is the neutral, since all the wires between panels are black.
Yeah, I agree that would have been a nice touch. Thanks for the feedback!
Yeah, lack of colored tape on at least the neutral and grounds (had to run #3, so no green available) would have failed inspection here. I go one step further and use red tape on one leg and make sure I keep that on the right side of all my panels. It's easier to make sure I'm keeping things balanced between the legs that way, too.
man o' man. Couldn't be clearer or simpler. I really appreciate your practical approach to maintaining code while DIY'ing a project! I needed to see those in-line Wago Connectors. PERFECT! Thanks
Do Wagu Connectors have to be enclosed? ie within the box or can they be spliced outside the box?
This video is really helpful and coming at at the right time for my project. I currently have a 100 amp main panel and need to add a subpanel to finish off my covid basement finishing project. what size sub panel can I add to my main panel. Thanks.
Lol Right on point! Always use phase tape to id conductors.
Good work!
Thx!
Hi. As usual, informative and plenty of insight. I have a 100amp Panel and will put the sub panel like yours. Those 2 breakers you took out of main and put into Sub. for the install of 100amp breaker on main.
So the question is; Every New Circuit goes to the Sub. Panel? If I want to add a Split System I wire it to Sub panel. 240 Car Charger etc? Is that correct? Thanks for your time Sir.
Mike ienuso.
Great video !!!
Thanks!
Just found your channel, great stuff! Do you have videos that show the pairing of say, 50 or 40 amp breakers to the wire size for running the wire around 100' to a detached structure?
Great tips. I’m new subscriber
Good show here, for you DIY'ers go ahead and pull a permit, costs under 200 bucks. Let the inspector sign off on your installation. keep a record for insurance coverage.
Understanding the work you performed and the title of the video, but with the installation of the PVC prior to the sub-panel installation, wouldn't you want to install 2 or 3 PVC tubes into the top of the subpanel (to the ceiling of your garage) to eliminate the future task of re-opening the wall?
Great video, I am rewatching this in preparation to do the same. I do want to point out that there is only ONE phase in a standard residential panel. I was confused by this for years, because people often refer to the legs as phases. During every 1/60 of a second the voltage rises to 120 on one leg and then 120 on the other. When you graph that you get a sine wave, or a single phase. To have a second phase you would need a second set of legs alternating slightly before or after, or “out of phase”. In the real world there is single and 3 phase. 3 phase power is 3 sets of legs each 120 degrees out of phase with each other. 3 phase motors are more powerful and run more smoothly because it is similar to having 3 pairs of people spinning a merry go round vs 1 pair.
Residential systems are usually what's called split phase whereby a single phase from the power company's 3-phase is split through a transformer, providing two legs that are 120V each sharing a single neutral. Think of a two piston engine (legs) with one exhaust pipe (neutral) and you'll get the idea. However, in the field it's common to call both legs phases. Technically not correct but more like electrician field slang. Not unlike when someone checks a circuit for power; they're not, power is wattage and they're checking for voltage. But when someone asks an electrician why they don't have power, everybody knows what that means. Like any trade, electrical has its own language that non-electricians may not understand fully. When a 3-phase motor loses 1 phase, for example, we say it's single phasing. Again, trade lingo, not necessarily what's happening electrically.
I would suggest to get black, red, white and green wire next time. It's the same price per foot and you can quickly identify which wire is what.
Great work I am currently trying to run a 60 amp sub panel from my main to shed it's around 50 ft planning underground conduit my question is what size conductors is recommended thanks for info
When you stuck your left arm into the wall cavity on the left, how did you know where to position the hole saw to meet up with the knock out on the existing panel?
There was a center drill done inside the old panel. You can see it when he breaks off the hole.
Great video. This brings up a question. Once you do this do your need the city to come out and inspect it in your area?
Excellent tutorial for a DIY guy. I will be putting in a 12 circuit 100amp Sub Panel exactly like your video. My question is about choosing a Sub Panel with the Plug-On Neutral feature and GFCI breakers. Is there any difference in where the #6 ground is connected?
I personally like the metal level that was very close to the live main lugs. That is why you should call the electric company and have the power shut off. Just curious, doesn't this need a permit and inspection for installation?
You make drilling that first hole, blindly, look easy. How did you locate the knockout without being able to see where you are drilling?
Your neutral feed wire to the sub panel should be white wire or identified with white tape at each end.. good video!
wow, you made it look so easy.. one question and this might sound dumb but with the sub panel, i now can treat it like a regular panel right? could I have my generator breaker install on the sub panel instead of the main?
I was going to wire a small subpanel for my generator initially, but I've decided I want to have room for some future mini splits ac units. Can I wire the subpanel to accept the plug from my generator and have room left for designated breakers for future split units in one sub panel? Do they make sub panels that work like that? Thanks...great video, very well explained...
Hello Everyday Home Repair. Thanks! for the very detail and useful informations. I wonder if instead of a lower amp sub panel, should I make it a 200 amp sub? Then I don't have to buy and make room for the sub breakers using HOML2225 sub feed lug kit? My question is; Is it what this kit for? Please explain what are the (+) and (-) of doing it this way? THANKS1
Great video.
Question…Do you know if a 100 amp sub panel can be used with a 60 amp breaker? I only need 60 amps but a 60 amp panel does not have enough slots for me. The 100 amp panels have plenty. Thanks!!
Just pure talent. I can do a ceiling fan install😂
Those can some times be harder than expected. Balancing everything up on a ladder is never fun. That is one of the killer applications of those WAGO lever nuts.
Do you have the neutral and ground bond removed at the subpanel? Noticed you separated the grounds and neutral correctly but didn't see if the neutral / ground screw was present (should be removed).
I noticed your main panel had a few ground and neutral wires in the same hole . This is a no-no, neutrals have to be one per hole. Depending on panel some do allow more than one ground per hole.
Is there a way to have a in-wall critical loads sub panel (next to in-wall main panel) that does not destroy the wall stud? Can you route the conduit externally between the two panels, or is it better to box the panels in like a window/door? My sub panel will eventually become my off grid main panel. Thanks.
Question, my existing recessed panel is in the in-house finished garage and there is a wooden studs, how would you pull the feeder cables thru the studs? Do you drill a hole in the studs and pass the wires thru? 1-1/2 conduct would be a big hole?
The main lugs are a dissimilar metal from copper. Therefore, it's a good idea to use an oxidation inhibitor (and remember to wiggle and retighten those stranded conductors).
You would think he would know this as his best buddy is Joel from Electrical Pro Academy.
@@AdamS-lh2ug Right...
If lugs are rated CU/AL it's not required.
Why wiggle and retighten them when I can crimp a ferrule on.
@John Hooton which depends on manufacture specs always always always check manufacture specs.
Is it possible to have two main cutoff switches? I have an outside the garage breaker box, but I'd like to be able to cut off the main from inside the garage. Will a transfer switch do that? Thanks.
This is exactly what we need. Thank you! I was debating doing this or running one to the (attached) garage where we need several new circuits. Might do both once comfortable. For now I think we'll do this but there's no room adjacent to panel as it sits between the crawl space opening and the corner. Have to review the code, but it would be nice to have it on the adjoining wall facing out 90 degrees.
What is the large breaker/switch in the lower right of your main box?
You can always cut sheet rock and run SER or a tray cable through the wall so you won't have to use conduit. Also, if you're adding a panel in a separate structure it will new it's own ground rod.
Just pay someone who knows what they are doing. Electrical work is nothing to try and figure out as you go. It's like me saying I'm going to be a lawyer tomorrow
Thanks I am also thinking about replacing gas furnaces in attic with heat pumps. Does the air handlers use 220? I currently have two 17 years old 2 ton units and two 45 btu furnace in attic. Location Georgia
Can you do a video on permit application for this kind of subpanel installation? I'd like to add my own generator connection to subpanel for power outage. Is there subpanel with switching to connect to my own generator? Thank you.
Hello, friend. So I can have a much better understanding, you took the hot lead from one leg of the main/primary distribution panel 120v side and split it in two for the subpanel, but still keeping the 100amp......correct? However, I did notice you did not use any double O'd line to the subpanel. The NEC 2023 and or municipal code okays this.....am I correct?
can you use Wagos with aluminum wire? And what are the wire sizes with wagos? I use them alot, really make wiring an outlet neat and clean. In an outlet, I will hot glue a multi-wire wago to the case just to keep the wire connection fixed and out of the way.
Is it required by code to bring across the neutral and ground wires for the circuits you moved? Since the neutral and grounds are connected between both panels, I don’t see the need to do it.
What kind of cable extension connectors are approved by code? Just the wago?
This is a great idea but my panel is on an outside wall and a pain the butt to run wires to it. I ended up using 6/3 for 50 amp to a panel 30 feet away that is more accessible.
Great video! Not certain in Canada, I believe the CEC ( Canadian Electrical Code) doesn't allow splicing inside of main panel if exiting to a different system. If any Canadian electrician can comment.
That is correct.
Correct!
You no use identification plastic tape white or white paint for the neutral wire ? Is very important. National Electric Code ? Thanks!!
HELP! I'm replacing an old Federal Pacific 100-amp panel with a 200-amp Square D Hameline panel, so I will need to upgrade the service entrance cable and want to use 2/0 THHN copper.
The outdoor meter can/box is mounted low, (30" off the ground at bottom edge of can) outside, so if I use the bottom rear 2-inch knockout of the meter can, it will put the hole through the wall below the bottom edge of the new breaker panel by about 8 inches, so I will have to make a vertical 90 upwards turn from hole in wall to bottom knockout of the new panel. I cannot find a 2" close 90 PVC electrical fitting so I'm guessing they don't make one.
My question is: how do I make that vertical 90 turn upwards? It will eventually be covered in drywall. Do I need to have the inside copper leads in conduit at all? If I use switch to 4/0 aluminum, do I need conduit inside the wall cavity? thanks in advance!
What do I use for extending the 240v loads to a sub panel connector type?
How do you do a clean wireway install when you have a flush mount main panel?
Since my 100 amp panel has 3 wires 2 hot and neutral and the ground connected on the same neutral when connecting the sub panel i need to bond the neutral and ground?
Question - I'm from a different country, but is it in american code to leave all earth wires unsleeved and exposed? Every vid I see on youtube has them exposed. Back here, we must put a sleeving over all the earthing wires. Is it hazardous to leave them exposed like that?
Great video. I wonder if there is any way to cover up those lugs below the main breaker. Even working slowly around my panel, I have found myself coming an inch or so away from those lugs and I wish Square D made some type of plastic/rubber cover that could be snapped over them temporarily.
I use thick cardboard cut to fit over and around those lugs, which makes me more comfortable along with insulated gloves. But your point is a good one!
Most likely Square D does make some plastic covers. As all new panels are required to have covers over the lugs per the current NEC. Now figuring out the part number in order to buy the plastic covers...
Pull the meter oh that's right you don't know jack. Keep your dirty hands out of my work. No place for amateurs
Even some electrical tape will help. Cut some strips of tape, a few inches long, and affix them to the black plastic on either side of the lugs...such that it covers the lugs.
It's not perfect, but it helps a ton.
If your not a licensed electrician then you have 0 business working on live power. It's all good until you get killed. All you need to do is pull the meter. If you can't do that call a guy like me
It looks like you are working on an exterior wall so a 2 1/4 inch hole would exceed the size you can drill in a bearing wall with 2x4 studs. Also what electrical code revision are you working under and are you required to have a whole house surge protector with the panel upgrade?
he did say at 3:50 that he had a double wall thickness to work with so I'm guessing there's some type of inner non load bearing wall in place.
It looked like you had installed the sub panel upside down? The way I plan to bring in my power lines from my meter to feed my sub panel it would be a lot easier to have the connection post on the bottom and go out the top with my lines to the different service connection. Is there any reason that I can not turn the panel upside down and do that to my sub panel too?
is ok to use 2-2-2-4 ser aluminum (40ft) for a 100amp sub panel ? or ser copper ?
It’s interesting that 40 circuits is full without overloading the 200A main. I guess as many devices use less power it’s possible, but you should have mentioned that in the opening.
Also, some main panels have sub panel feed lugs after the main breaker. Check codes and local requirements.
You were lucky that the knockout in the main and sub panels fit so well with the elbow. It might be wise to check that fit.
Regarding the hot main lugs, I put duct tape over them to add another later of safety. No guarantee, but better safe than sorry. Likewise gloves are good, but no guarantee.
Thanks for the feedback Tom 👍
Another guy who doesn't know what the F he's talking about. Duct tape is conductive and illegal to use
The average load on a 200 amp service is 60 amps. Not even close to an overload.
@@fuzzymonkey-qe1xp I should have been more specific. I used non-metallized tape temporarily so that the back of my hand wouldn’t brush the contacts. As I was finishing the install, I found that the box manufacturer had provided some rubber boots to cover the main lugs.
I agree that duct tape is not tested for conductivity, since it is not intended for electrical use. I might have just as well stuffed a rag over the lugs, but tape was handy, and about the right dimensions. I did mention that tape is no guarantee and not a substitute for being careful.
@@jeffreyspence2510 Averages mean very little in real life, My boiler can draw up 100 amps, and my water heaters are 40A each, so on a cold day with laundry and a shower running, I’d be drawing 180A.
My concern is that as we add more and more circuits, the potential for overload rises, much like the old joke…
“What do you mean I’m overdrawn, I still have checks in the checkbook.” 🤓
To reduce the danger of touching the hot lugs one can get Square D Service Entrance Barriers to cover the hot lugs.
You said you used 2ga for 100a, what is needed for 125a? Similar situation where sub is right next to the main.
@EverydayHomeRepairs why are you replacing your gas furnace with an electric furnace?
1. One would think that manufacturers would provide plastic covers for the always hot feeder lugs instead of leaving them out in the open.
2. Is 100 amp service enough for all the heavy-draw uses planned?
3. Does code not require that neutral feeds be white wire OR black wire wrapped with white electrical tape? The installer of the original panel did not do that.
KameraShy
Your 1: Covers (barriers) ARE now required for SERVICE MAIN LUGS 2017 NEC® 408.3(D), 2020, 2023 NEC® 230.62(C) and for FEEDER (WITHOUT OVERCURRENT PROTECTION) MAIN LUGS 2023 NEC® 215.15 but the covers are AVAILABLE from the manufacturers (purchased SEPARATELY); it’s the responsibility of the installer to provide.
Good job on the video. I enjoy the channel. Not to throw a wet blanket on your plans, but your bus bar rating needs to be considered in this situation. NEC says (depending on pertinent factors and calculations) you may not be able to add a solar power source to that main panel... if you have a 200 Amp Main Panel, with a 200 Amp Main Circuit Breaker, and 200 Amp rated Bus Bars. For example, if you add an additional 40 Amps of solar power source, factored in @125%, your 200 Amp Main Bus can now be overloaded with 250 Amps of current. Depending on power source and other factors and considerations (i.e.- landing 100 Amp sub panel/solar feed right next to Main Breaker, vs. on the other end of the bus) and calculations, that won't pass an electrical inspection. The new sub panel bus bars will be even more limited, since it has a lower current rating (125 Amp bus with 100Amp feeder CB, plus 125% solar current). Your new sub panel is inadequate for large solar and can't be used as it is. One solution, is to upgrade the capacity of your Main Panel, with a new Main Panel of higher bus bar Amperage capacity. Another solution, is to connect your solar power source to the service side of your 200 Amp Main Breaker, between the electric meter and the Main Breaker. See the existing code that permits that. Of course everything must comply with the NEC and AHJ requirements. Here's some of the references - 705.12, 705.12 (B)(3)(1-6), 230.82(6), lots of others. Good luck!
I think you may be misinterpreting that code section. For instance, that is supplying power not using power. It will be supplying power to circuits that would otherwise be supplied by the utility so to me it wouldn’t make much sense . So for instance, 40 amps at 125% is 50 amperes. I would believe that the bus bars would have to be at least rated at 50 amps. I’m just a carpenter so I’m just guessing
@@highvoltage1979 Yes, the solar inverter is supplying power. And the 200 Amp Service is supplying power. Together they supply more power than the bus is rated to handle. Theoretically, the bus can possibly be carrying more than 200 Amps to the connected loads. Since there's more than 200 Amps available, the Main Breaker won't trip. So the bus isn't protected from overload. What are the odds the bus could be overloaded? Doesn't really seem likely, does it? That's why NEC allows 120% of the bus rating. But, if there's a 200 Amp Main breaker, plus 50 Amps of solar, that exceeds 120% of 200 Amps by 10 Amps. That's a fail.
@@manabouthome That does make sense, I didn’t look at it in that manner. Thanks
@@highvoltage1979 Thanks for asking. I imagine there's a lot of misunderstanding around that, until it's clearly explained. I certainly had to sit and think on it after I first learned it!
I should clarify here, that the 120% leeway on the busbar rating is per 705.12(B)(3)(2) "Where two sources, one a primary power source, and the other, another power source, are located at opposite ends of a busbar that contains loads, the sum of 125% of the power source's output current and the rating of the overcurrent device protecting the busbar, shall not exceed 120 percent of the ampacity of the busbar." However, due to the location of the 100A CB in this video, that doesn't apply. I think 705.12(B)(3)(1) would be applicable - "The sum of 125 percent of the power source(s) output circuit current and the rating of the overcurrent device protecting the busbar shall not exceed the ampacity of the busbar". So, the busbar rating is taken at 100% (not 120%), due to the position of the 100A CB in this case. This would make it worse than I described in the comment above.
Great video, thanks for posting. Quick question: do you actually touch the lugs when using the multimeter or just close enough without touching? Seems touching it would shock you or are the tips insulated? Thanks
Touch the lugs, but don't be touching any metal part of the multi meter
@@jobourne423 Thank you. I have been afraid to try it.
Did you connect the 6ga ground to the ground bar in the sub panel? It looked like it was going to a neutral.
Yep the lug for the ground bar was on the same side a one of the two neutral bars so they look pretty close together.
8:32 when installing a ground bar the paint of the mounting spot supposed to scratched off on sub panel.
What cutters do you use to cut 2awg?
You didn't mention what you torqued you load lines. What is the setting it should be torqued to?
How did you center the drill with the knockout behind the wall. Don’t think you showed that part. Only thing I could think of doing is drilling with a small bit from inside panel into center of knockout through the wood. Then put the drill bit part of the hole saw into the same from other side.
I was wondering the same thing. He doesn't show drilling out the stud for the 1 1/2 pvc.
Quick question? Why install a separate ground strip? Why not use what’s already available?
How did that conduit fit so perfectly between the main and sub panel? Is it manufactured to fit so precise like that?
Was it required to use conduit or could you just have run the wires by themselves?
It would have been easier to buy SER. The big Grey wire. No conduit would have been needed.