One question please. When you relocate those two circuits over to the new sub panel, can you just bring the hot wires over, leave the neutrals and grounds inside the main panel??
@@sku32956 The green ground screw in a breaker panel is for bonding neutral and ground, which is done in the main panel, not the sub panel. (Sometimes the bond is before the "main panel" even).
I would recommend using a torque wrench/driver. Current code requires it and frankly it is a good idea. I think a lot of people would be surprised on how hard it is to tighten things to the correct torque.
When I worked in a power plant, the electricians used to open each panel once a year and retorque each connection to spec. Couldn’t afford to have any circuits failing and compromising our availability to the grid
I always used cardboard that went across the lugs for extra protection. Many times had to wire hot due to customer needs. Really easy to cut a scrap piece to fit between the flanges. It's way too easy to forget about those HOT lugs.
@@EverydayHomeRepairsNewer QO and Homeline 150-225A load centers come with plastic lug covers. I don't know about the little panels like the 100-125A ones, though.
I believe it’s code to identify circuits when relocating them such as in this instance. Meaning being able to identify which neutral goes with which hot, both in the main panel and in the sub panel. This is done so that in the future if you ever need one of those circuits on either a GFCI or AFCI breaker, then you be able to do that. Don’t know the exact code article but I was looking into it a few months ago when relocating a main panel and we would put zip ties around the hot/neutral together to identify them as belonging on the same circuit.
In my opinion having the hot neutral and ground coming from the same nm sheathing sufficiently identifies them, and this would apply more to an environment where conduit is used with multiple circuits in each conduit. But I haven't read the code so I'm not sure.
@@chrisruss7863 the wire he uses from the main panel to the sub panel isn’t romex, he uses thhn. There’s no easy way to identify from the sub panel which neutral belongs to which hot
@donmclean1220 yes but he doesn't bring the neutral into the subpanel, only the hot. So where is he going to identify the wires if not in the main panel, where the romex enters?
@@chrisruss7863 yes he does, in the sub panel for the branch circuits there’s very obviously 2 hot wires and 2 neutral wires. If you’re looking at the sub panel, there’s no way to easily identify which neutral belongs to which hot.
One suggestion would be to use red electrical tape and white electrical tape on the ends of the wire between the panels. This will make it easier to diagnose if there a problem with one of the hit phases and make it obvious about which wire is the neutral, since all the wires between panels are black.
Yeah, lack of colored tape on at least the neutral and grounds (had to run #3, so no green available) would have failed inspection here. I go one step further and use red tape on one leg and make sure I keep that on the right side of all my panels. It's easier to make sure I'm keeping things balanced between the legs that way, too.
I did something similar n my old house, I added a 50amp breaker in a new panel, connected it with a metal conduit. Both panels were the same size so I covered everything and it had 2 doors that opened out exposing both. The doors came off the wall about 1 1/2” and across the top was a 2x4 that was about 2” higher than the panels, but far enough away, that you could connect metal conduit (code in my area) without damaging or cutting anything. I also had a dropped ceiling so anything could be easily added anywhere. In my current home I added a 50amp sub panel in the garage, before I finished the basement. The panel was added for a welder and more power in the garage. This panel was sent in like yours and a plywood cover and small door for the welder plug-in. Thanks, your video’s are always wonderful and helpful. God bless you!
Thanks for this video I had a sub panel professionally installed when I bought my 60 yo house 10 years ago. I do a lot of my own single circuit stuff but this was a good primer for a panel. Not rocket science but a lot of things you need to be aware of. I will probably never do this job myself, but it was good information for me.
Scott---Finished up today and checked with multimeter just like you did yours. All good. Future proofed for mini split install. Thx again for your channel.
You did a great job bringing the wires to the sub-panel. I did a similar install only I put a 14" metal access panel under the sub panel to give easier access to make future connections.
That spacing you ended up with after cutting everything was absolutely beautiful. I know it is drastically cheaper using the parts that you did, and that is a big reason even on its own, but why not take this opportunity when needing the subpanel for solar to use a smart panel like Leviton or Span? Being able to get really accurate readings on every circuit in that subpanel is pretty useful for seeing power draw when on battery (if you have one) or from your solar directly. I like the Leviton panel personally since it both looks nice, has indicators positioned so you can see status with the panel door closed, and you can choose specific circuits to be smart and go with cheaper breakers that are not smart for other circuits you don't care about, or the potential to upgrade to a smart breaker whenever you want.
Yeah, I will undoubtedly be jumping into smart panels in the near future. I have been waiting a bit for the products to mature but I know my friend Joel @electricproacademy is a Big fan of SPAN 👍
The main lugs are a dissimilar metal from copper. Therefore, it's a good idea to use an oxidation inhibitor (and remember to wiggle and retighten those stranded conductors).
Great video! Not certain in Canada, I believe the CEC ( Canadian Electrical Code) doesn't allow splicing inside of main panel if exiting to a different system. If any Canadian electrician can comment.
Good show here, for you DIY'ers go ahead and pull a permit, costs under 200 bucks. Let the inspector sign off on your installation. keep a record for insurance coverage.
💯 I am coming to the realization this is a large part of my audience that is why I am starting to work on cost estimators and maybe even a Professional referral system some time in the future. All of us are limited on time and I also hire out certain jobs around the house for various reasons.
Good job on the video. I enjoy the channel. Not to throw a wet blanket on your plans, but your bus bar rating needs to be considered in this situation. NEC says (depending on pertinent factors and calculations) you may not be able to add a solar power source to that main panel... if you have a 200 Amp Main Panel, with a 200 Amp Main Circuit Breaker, and 200 Amp rated Bus Bars. For example, if you add an additional 40 Amps of solar power source, factored in @125%, your 200 Amp Main Bus can now be overloaded with 250 Amps of current. Depending on power source and other factors and considerations (i.e.- landing 100 Amp sub panel/solar feed right next to Main Breaker, vs. on the other end of the bus) and calculations, that won't pass an electrical inspection. The new sub panel bus bars will be even more limited, since it has a lower current rating (125 Amp bus with 100Amp feeder CB, plus 125% solar current). Your new sub panel is inadequate for large solar and can't be used as it is. One solution, is to upgrade the capacity of your Main Panel, with a new Main Panel of higher bus bar Amperage capacity. Another solution, is to connect your solar power source to the service side of your 200 Amp Main Breaker, between the electric meter and the Main Breaker. See the existing code that permits that. Of course everything must comply with the NEC and AHJ requirements. Here's some of the references - 705.12, 705.12 (B)(3)(1-6), 230.82(6), lots of others. Good luck!
I think you may be misinterpreting that code section. For instance, that is supplying power not using power. It will be supplying power to circuits that would otherwise be supplied by the utility so to me it wouldn’t make much sense . So for instance, 40 amps at 125% is 50 amperes. I would believe that the bus bars would have to be at least rated at 50 amps. I’m just a carpenter so I’m just guessing
@@highvoltage1979 Yes, the solar inverter is supplying power. And the 200 Amp Service is supplying power. Together they supply more power than the bus is rated to handle. Theoretically, the bus can possibly be carrying more than 200 Amps to the connected loads. Since there's more than 200 Amps available, the Main Breaker won't trip. So the bus isn't protected from overload. What are the odds the bus could be overloaded? Doesn't really seem likely, does it? That's why NEC allows 120% of the bus rating. But, if there's a 200 Amp Main breaker, plus 50 Amps of solar, that exceeds 120% of 200 Amps by 10 Amps. That's a fail.
@@highvoltage1979 Thanks for asking. I imagine there's a lot of misunderstanding around that, until it's clearly explained. I certainly had to sit and think on it after I first learned it!
I should clarify here, that the 120% leeway on the busbar rating is per 705.12(B)(3)(2) "Where two sources, one a primary power source, and the other, another power source, are located at opposite ends of a busbar that contains loads, the sum of 125% of the power source's output current and the rating of the overcurrent device protecting the busbar, shall not exceed 120 percent of the ampacity of the busbar." However, due to the location of the 100A CB in this video, that doesn't apply. I think 705.12(B)(3)(1) would be applicable - "The sum of 125 percent of the power source(s) output circuit current and the rating of the overcurrent device protecting the busbar shall not exceed the ampacity of the busbar". So, the busbar rating is taken at 100% (not 120%), due to the position of the 100A CB in this case. This would make it worse than I described in the comment above.
Great video, I am rewatching this in preparation to do the same. I do want to point out that there is only ONE phase in a standard residential panel. I was confused by this for years, because people often refer to the legs as phases. During every 1/60 of a second the voltage rises to 120 on one leg and then 120 on the other. When you graph that you get a sine wave, or a single phase. To have a second phase you would need a second set of legs alternating slightly before or after, or “out of phase”. In the real world there is single and 3 phase. 3 phase power is 3 sets of legs each 120 degrees out of phase with each other. 3 phase motors are more powerful and run more smoothly because it is similar to having 3 pairs of people spinning a merry go round vs 1 pair.
Residential systems are usually what's called split phase whereby a single phase from the power company's 3-phase is split through a transformer, providing two legs that are 120V each sharing a single neutral. Think of a two piston engine (legs) with one exhaust pipe (neutral) and you'll get the idea. However, in the field it's common to call both legs phases. Technically not correct but more like electrician field slang. Not unlike when someone checks a circuit for power; they're not, power is wattage and they're checking for voltage. But when someone asks an electrician why they don't have power, everybody knows what that means. Like any trade, electrical has its own language that non-electricians may not understand fully. When a 3-phase motor loses 1 phase, for example, we say it's single phasing. Again, trade lingo, not necessarily what's happening electrically.
You are really going at it these days. I wish I had your energy and your back and neck. 🤣 Looks like you covered all the bases. I'd be willing to do that kind of work, but it would take me a lot longer because I'd have to take breaks. That is, I have the electrical and electronics experience, but I'm not a professional electrician, and I'd also have to study all the codes to be sure it would all meet spec. Looking forward to the next one. Thanks, Scott.
Yeah go ahead and do it yourself and if something happens like a fire because you are too cheap to pay someone who knows what they are doing your liable
I noticed your main panel had a few ground and neutral wires in the same hole . This is a no-no, neutrals have to be one per hole. Depending on panel some do allow more than one ground per hole.
It’s interesting that 40 circuits is full without overloading the 200A main. I guess as many devices use less power it’s possible, but you should have mentioned that in the opening. Also, some main panels have sub panel feed lugs after the main breaker. Check codes and local requirements. You were lucky that the knockout in the main and sub panels fit so well with the elbow. It might be wise to check that fit. Regarding the hot main lugs, I put duct tape over them to add another later of safety. No guarantee, but better safe than sorry. Likewise gloves are good, but no guarantee.
@@fuzzymonkey-qe1xp I should have been more specific. I used non-metallized tape temporarily so that the back of my hand wouldn’t brush the contacts. As I was finishing the install, I found that the box manufacturer had provided some rubber boots to cover the main lugs. I agree that duct tape is not tested for conductivity, since it is not intended for electrical use. I might have just as well stuffed a rag over the lugs, but tape was handy, and about the right dimensions. I did mention that tape is no guarantee and not a substitute for being careful.
@@jeffreyspence2510 Averages mean very little in real life, My boiler can draw up 100 amps, and my water heaters are 40A each, so on a cold day with laundry and a shower running, I’d be drawing 180A. My concern is that as we add more and more circuits, the potential for overload rises, much like the old joke… “What do you mean I’m overdrawn, I still have checks in the checkbook.” 🤓
Question - I'm from a different country, but is it in american code to leave all earth wires unsleeved and exposed? Every vid I see on youtube has them exposed. Back here, we must put a sleeving over all the earthing wires. Is it hazardous to leave them exposed like that?
I personally like the metal level that was very close to the live main lugs. That is why you should call the electric company and have the power shut off. Just curious, doesn't this need a permit and inspection for installation?
I did that years ago, in my case it was a 60 amp breaker to a 12 pole auxiliary box. I mounted it to the lower right side of the main panel and went through the side.
When you stuck your left arm into the wall cavity on the left, how did you know where to position the hole saw to meet up with the knock out on the existing panel?
Understanding the work you performed and the title of the video, but with the installation of the PVC prior to the sub-panel installation, wouldn't you want to install 2 or 3 PVC tubes into the top of the subpanel (to the ceiling of your garage) to eliminate the future task of re-opening the wall?
Hi. As usual, informative and plenty of insight. I have a 100amp Panel and will put the sub panel like yours. Those 2 breakers you took out of main and put into Sub. for the install of 100amp breaker on main. So the question is; Every New Circuit goes to the Sub. Panel? If I want to add a Split System I wire it to Sub panel. 240 Car Charger etc? Is that correct? Thanks for your time Sir. Mike ienuso.
1. One would think that manufacturers would provide plastic covers for the always hot feeder lugs instead of leaving them out in the open. 2. Is 100 amp service enough for all the heavy-draw uses planned? 3. Does code not require that neutral feeds be white wire OR black wire wrapped with white electrical tape? The installer of the original panel did not do that.
KameraShy Your 1: Covers (barriers) ARE now required for SERVICE MAIN LUGS 2017 NEC® 408.3(D), 2020, 2023 NEC® 230.62(C) and for FEEDER (WITHOUT OVERCURRENT PROTECTION) MAIN LUGS 2023 NEC® 215.15 but the covers are AVAILABLE from the manufacturers (purchased SEPARATELY); it’s the responsibility of the installer to provide.
Someone may have said this but adding a sub panel does not give you more capacity to add large items like a heat pump. Depending on where you live a heat pump can require over 100 amps by itself. It is always best to consult an electrician. I have seen many do-it-yourselfers almost burn down their house not understanding code and how dangerous electricity really is.
Did the new panel arrive with a factory installed Neutral Bonding Screw? Just a thought for anyone unfamiliar. Sub Panel Neutral Bonding Screw, often a green screw looking out of place, going thru the Neutral, must be removed to prevent a loopy ground problem worth looking up. Nice clean install, either careful planning or plain old good luck got the empty cavity to put your sub panel in.
Thanks for the Add, that would have been good to point out. Square D includes the screw but not installed as least on these main lug panels. I was confident the cavity was open but not 100%. You know how it goes 🤞
As an Electrician I would have upgraded the main panel. And solved the "Bundling" problem you have with all your branch circuits in a single pvc male adapter. And put a courtesy pipe out the top for future additions. But that's just me.
This video is really helpful and coming at at the right time for my project. I currently have a 100 amp main panel and need to add a subpanel to finish off my covid basement finishing project. what size sub panel can I add to my main panel. Thanks.
Those can some times be harder than expected. Balancing everything up on a ladder is never fun. That is one of the killer applications of those WAGO lever nuts.
I see Feeder Wires going into the Bottom by By Electricians Skimping Everyway they can by saving the Cost of a Couple feet of Wire. I always have the Lugs at top of Panel. Interlock Kits will Probably still work. I see it Often enough that it Must be OK. Been a Master since '98, Still buy the extra couple feet of Wire so it can reach the top. Others mention white tape on the neutral, 2 wires under one lug. Didn't see anyone else mention what I call Upside Down. Maybe it's just me? Habit? You have Helped Many.
Been in the trade for over 40 years and while upside down is legal, it will always look upside down and amateurish to me. It also screws up your circuit numbers, putting odds on the right and #1 at the bottom. Just to save 2' of conductor. I will never let my guys do it that way.
Thanks for this video. It serves my purpose, but also the other video that you mentioned, about a remote panel, which is what I’m also planning, since only one circuit serves it, and the laundry is located there. The washer and dryer really ought to be on separate circuits, and I have a spare fridge there too, and run either a window A/C or a space heater (summer or winter options). Also I have a large lot and want to run power to the RV (30 amps), to the shop (another 30 amps), and to the spa/hot tub. Seems like those last three will be supported by one 125 amp sub.
man o' man. Couldn't be clearer or simpler. I really appreciate your practical approach to maintaining code while DIY'ing a project! I needed to see those in-line Wago Connectors. PERFECT! Thanks Do Wagu Connectors have to be enclosed? ie within the box or can they be spliced outside the box?
I think you should spend more time talking about how careful people need to be around those live lugs. It's only 240V, but if you were to short those out, it would be much more catastrophic than a standard 240V short. Because there is relatively so little wire between the transformer, and such large wire, the short circuit current available in a short circuit condition is huge compared to any other short you'd see in your house. You could easily cause an arc flash.
I once bumped the bare ground wire for a range to a main feeder lug. I think it was a 6 AWG ground wire. The neutral and ground were bonded at the stove, and the neutral was already hooked up in the panel. As I was routing that ground wire...it touched a main lug, but for just a quick moment. SCARY. Nothing bad happened, other than noise, light, the wire was warm, and I needed a new change of underwear. Could have been a LOT worse!
Great video. I wonder if there is any way to cover up those lugs below the main breaker. Even working slowly around my panel, I have found myself coming an inch or so away from those lugs and I wish Square D made some type of plastic/rubber cover that could be snapped over them temporarily.
I use thick cardboard cut to fit over and around those lugs, which makes me more comfortable along with insulated gloves. But your point is a good one!
Most likely Square D does make some plastic covers. As all new panels are required to have covers over the lugs per the current NEC. Now figuring out the part number in order to buy the plastic covers...
Even some electrical tape will help. Cut some strips of tape, a few inches long, and affix them to the black plastic on either side of the lugs...such that it covers the lugs. It's not perfect, but it helps a ton.
If your not a licensed electrician then you have 0 business working on live power. It's all good until you get killed. All you need to do is pull the meter. If you can't do that call a guy like me
It looks like you are working on an exterior wall so a 2 1/4 inch hole would exceed the size you can drill in a bearing wall with 2x4 studs. Also what electrical code revision are you working under and are you required to have a whole house surge protector with the panel upgrade?
The neutral feed on the main panel was not wrapped/identified as white. I was under the impression, as Don L, that this is required by code. Original electrician blew it. Electrician wrapped with white tape when my main service was upgraded years ago.
@@justinforrest1613 I post electrical information for amateur subscribers that are being misinformed or are being provided with incorrect information by other amateur experts that need to make sure of their facts before providing informational videos.
How did you center the drill with the knockout behind the wall. Don’t think you showed that part. Only thing I could think of doing is drilling with a small bit from inside panel into center of knockout through the wood. Then put the drill bit part of the hole saw into the same from other side.
This is a great idea but my panel is on an outside wall and a pain the butt to run wires to it. I ended up using 6/3 for 50 amp to a panel 30 feet away that is more accessible.
One question please: When you relocate those two circuits over to the new sub panel, can you just bring the hot wires over, leave the neutrals and grounds inside the main panel? Thanks!
Excellent tutorial for a DIY guy. I will be putting in a 12 circuit 100amp Sub Panel exactly like your video. My question is about choosing a Sub Panel with the Plug-On Neutral feature and GFCI breakers. Is there any difference in where the #6 ground is connected?
Yes, but he's OK. The three feeders are treated as 2 (the neutral only passes the imbalanced current), plus two moved 20A circuits, so 6 wires that count for wire fill. Derate to 80% of the ampacity. 12AWG = 20A circuit. 12AWG THHN has an ampacity 25A (assuming the breakers are 75C rated), derated it's still 20A, so no problem. 2AWG has an ampacity of 115A. Derated it's now 92A. There's no such thing as a 92A breaker, so a round up to 100A is allowed.
I like how you go over this, you did not mention if the main panel was off or not? So many comments about minor stuff, The majors comments are? You forgot to identify / tape your neutral (grounded conductor) with white tape at both ends as required Art 200.6. Dwelling units 100amp subpanel, nothing wrong with using larger wire, but FYI Art 310.15 dwelling units feeders, a #4 is allowed for 100amp sub panel and #8 ground. The comment of 60amp sub panel #6 wire, Code does not that. #6 is 50amps. A #4 is required for 60amps. Any circuit under 100amps are required to use the 310.16 60-degree column.
#6 THHN is allowed for up to 65 amps, allowing one to put it on a max 70 amp breaker. If it was Romex, #6 is rated for up to 55A which allows one to put it on a max 60 amp breaker. It is not true that any circuit under 100A is required to use the 60C column. Romex is required to use the 60C column, but not individual conductors. Because most breakers under 100A have a 60C/75C rating, 110.14(C)(1)(a)(3) allows one to use the higher rating (75C) as long the conductors are rated for higher than the 60C rating, which is the case with THHN. For any breaker/terminal that has only a 60C rating, then max ampacity would be based on the 60C column.
My Mother had a heat pump many moons ago and we had NOTHING but problems with it. Turned out it was a bad computer board, but even after that was fixed, it did not provide enough heat when it got really cold. We couldn't afford to buy another new furnace so we had electric radiators that we got for each room. Mother finally got another mortgage and used the equity for a new furnace and went back to Natural gas. Heat pumps also work all summer and all winter, so it's a lot more electric and wear and tear on the whole system, rather than just one at a time and a break in the seasons. Not trying to tell you what to do, just letting you know that they've been an awful experience for us and cost a LOT of money, then even MORE money to fix what we spent a lot of money on in the first place. Personally I have no valid opinion of electric cars. I personally wouldn't want one until I was certain they don't burst into flames and set your house on fire, and certain that the fire department has full capability of handling those particular fires. You cannot just hose them down and put out the fire. Also, they have all this computer stuff in it and can really mess up your day if one thing goes wrong. From what I've heard, they cannot just be hooked up to a tow truck and towed in. Also, if you have a loan on the insanely expensive car, and you run into a money issue, a third party can access your car via the Internet and make it refuse to start and impossible to drive. So it wouldn't matter if it is in your garage or not. They don't need a Repo man (Professional car thief) to steal your car from you anymore. It also goes for the thug car thieves. They're hacking into them too and doing all kinds of mayhem or just stealing your ride for their illegal acts. Some lady recently had her car stolen, she made a police report and did all that, but she got a "Failure to Appear" notice in the mail. The person that stole her car illegally parked it when he was finished with it. It was cited and it didn't come back to the officer as "stolen" So she had to go to court, show cause of why she failed to appear for the parking violation, and if she didn't respond to that a bench warrant would be issued for her arrest, so she contacted KMOV (CBS News) to help her get that mess sorted out. So in my opinion, those are way more trouble than they're worth. I think if I was a wealthy person, I wouldn't even own a car. I'd just take a cab where ever I needed to go. An actual Taxi Cab. None of that Uber malarkey. But great video anyway, and your electric panel is so neat and tidy. I rewired a circuit and made a new home run and it's a mess in that panel, and I did not make that mess. I think I did contribute to the mess, but it was my first time ever doing a new circuit with a home run. All the other houses I rewired, were more or less fixing things that weren't done right in houses my Mother purchased. As soon as I get these health issues fixed, which likely will never happen because this country feels that Americans are not entitled to have humane treatment, I am left to suffer, otherwise I'd go in the attic and do things the right way instead of spending even more money to run conduit pipe all through my house, as I need to fix things, with box extenders if I can't get the hole drilled in the right place or get stymied by a fire-stop in the walls.
wow, you made it look so easy.. one question and this might sound dumb but with the sub panel, i now can treat it like a regular panel right? could I have my generator breaker install on the sub panel instead of the main?
great video. but swap gas furnace for electric heat pump? are you crazy? I would give anything to have access to gas for a gas furnace. I hope you're ready to feel cold.
Great video as usual, regarding installing a 50a breaker on my sub panel and specifically capcity. I have a new Tesla and want to add a 50a breaker on my garage 100a sub panel. Can you confirm that this is no-no please?
@@donaldbailey5576 Nah, go ahead and spring for the 50 amp or one of those 30 and 50 amp combos. The 50 amp can be utilised as a secondary EV charger for redundancy.
Before he started this sub panel install. Should have calculated the load draw. A lot of the time most pros don't use the amp probe to determine the total ampacity when you add a 100 amp breaker to an existing panel. Load calculation is the determining factor. Usually ull have to upgrade the MDP as well as the feed conductors to make sure u don't overload the system
There's no need to do a load calc when adding a sub-panel. You'll never draw more than the main breaker will allow so it doesn't matter how many 100A breakers you add to the main panel, the system will not get overloaded simply by adding breakers. A breaker's job is not to limit the load; its job is to protect the conductor. Usually you do not need to replace the main panel (assuming it's current and not outdated/obsolete) when adding a sub-panel.
You were having that level rather close to the 3 lugs that could be fatal. I am always nervous about having my hands near those lugs. Is the ground wire here insulated? Ours is bare and yours looks like a 3 phase panel like in an office.
Can you do a video on permit application for this kind of subpanel installation? I'd like to add my own generator connection to subpanel for power outage. Is there subpanel with switching to connect to my own generator? Thank you.
Great work I am currently trying to run a 60 amp sub panel from my main to shed it's around 50 ft planning underground conduit my question is what size conductors is recommended thanks for info
Hello Everyday Home Repair. Thanks! for the very detail and useful informations. I wonder if instead of a lower amp sub panel, should I make it a 200 amp sub? Then I don't have to buy and make room for the sub breakers using HOML2225 sub feed lug kit? My question is; Is it what this kit for? Please explain what are the (+) and (-) of doing it this way? THANKS1
So you don't have sub freezing temperatures ever ? If so heat pump instead of air conditioner but you should keep the gas furnace as backup heat for those really cold times when the heat pump becomes inefficient
Do you have the neutral and ground bond removed at the subpanel? Noticed you separated the grounds and neutral correctly but didn't see if the neutral / ground screw was present (should be removed).
I was going to wire a small subpanel for my generator initially, but I've decided I want to have room for some future mini splits ac units. Can I wire the subpanel to accept the plug from my generator and have room left for designated breakers for future split units in one sub panel? Do they make sub panels that work like that? Thanks...great video, very well explained...
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What if there is no place to put the neutral in the main panel?
One question please.
When you relocate those two circuits over to the new sub panel, can you just bring the hot wires over, leave the neutrals and grounds inside the main panel??
Great Video. Two things I would do different. Torque all of the terminations. and add some white tape on the neutral.
Nice additions, thanks for the feedback 👍
I was definitely looking for the white neutral or some other indication.
Yep! Mark those wires. I like to mark one of the lines for 240V with red tape too
I would use a green ground screw to attach to the ground bar to the subpanel itself .
@@sku32956 The green ground screw in a breaker panel is for bonding neutral and ground, which is done in the main panel, not the sub panel. (Sometimes the bond is before the "main panel" even).
I would recommend using a torque wrench/driver. Current code requires it and frankly it is a good idea. I think a lot of people would be surprised on how hard it is to tighten things to the correct torque.
Also to wiggle the stranded main wires a bit and retorque them.
When I worked in a power plant, the electricians used to open each panel once a year and retorque each connection to spec. Couldn’t afford to have any circuits failing and compromising our availability to the grid
@@DanielinLaTuna yeah, I would imagine the heat expansion and cool shrink cycles the wires go through, could cause an issue.
what is the torque required?
@@felixchien1664 I think you can usually see the torque spec on the side of the breaker itself. It can vary from manufacturer to manufacture.
I always used cardboard that went across the lugs for extra protection. Many times had to wire hot due to customer needs. Really easy to cut a scrap piece to fit between the flanges. It's way too easy to forget about those HOT lugs.
Great suggestion, thanks for the feedback!
I put some electrical tape over mine, as a more permanent solution.
@@EverydayHomeRepairsNewer QO and Homeline 150-225A load centers come with plastic lug covers. I don't know about the little panels like the 100-125A ones, though.
I was going to suggest the same... a piece of cardboard.
You can buy heavy duty universal lug covers at HD or Lowes
I believe it’s code to identify circuits when relocating them such as in this instance. Meaning being able to identify which neutral goes with which hot, both in the main panel and in the sub panel. This is done so that in the future if you ever need one of those circuits on either a GFCI or AFCI breaker, then you be able to do that. Don’t know the exact code article but I was looking into it a few months ago when relocating a main panel and we would put zip ties around the hot/neutral together to identify them as belonging on the same circuit.
In my opinion having the hot neutral and ground coming from the same nm sheathing sufficiently identifies them, and this would apply more to an environment where conduit is used with multiple circuits in each conduit. But I haven't read the code so I'm not sure.
But his extended wires going to the subpanel aren’t in Romex, so identifying them is a good idea.
@@chrisruss7863 the wire he uses from the main panel to the sub panel isn’t romex, he uses thhn. There’s no easy way to identify from the sub panel which neutral belongs to which hot
@donmclean1220 yes but he doesn't bring the neutral into the subpanel, only the hot. So where is he going to identify the wires if not in the main panel, where the romex enters?
@@chrisruss7863 yes he does, in the sub panel for the branch circuits there’s very obviously 2 hot wires and 2 neutral wires. If you’re looking at the sub panel, there’s no way to easily identify which neutral belongs to which hot.
One suggestion would be to use red electrical tape and white electrical tape on the ends of the wire between the panels.
This will make it easier to diagnose if there a problem with one of the hit phases and make it obvious about which wire is the neutral, since all the wires between panels are black.
Yeah, I agree that would have been a nice touch. Thanks for the feedback!
Yeah, lack of colored tape on at least the neutral and grounds (had to run #3, so no green available) would have failed inspection here. I go one step further and use red tape on one leg and make sure I keep that on the right side of all my panels. It's easier to make sure I'm keeping things balanced between the legs that way, too.
I did something similar n my old house, I added a 50amp breaker in a new panel, connected it with a metal conduit. Both panels were the same size so I covered everything and it had 2 doors that opened out exposing both. The doors came off the wall about 1 1/2” and across the top was a 2x4 that was about 2” higher than the panels, but far enough away, that you could connect metal conduit (code in my area) without damaging or cutting anything. I also had a dropped ceiling so anything could be easily added anywhere.
In my current home I added a 50amp sub panel in the garage, before I finished the basement. The panel was added for a welder and more power in the garage. This panel was sent in like yours and a plywood cover and small door for the welder plug-in. Thanks, your video’s are always wonderful and helpful. God bless you!
Thanks for this video I had a sub panel professionally installed when I bought my 60 yo house 10 years ago. I do a lot of my own single circuit stuff but this was a good primer for a panel. Not rocket science but a lot of things you need to be aware of. I will probably never do this job myself, but it was good information for me.
Thanks for the feedback!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I've really enjoyed your videos you do a great job
Starting work on my sub panel today and this is the very video I'm using as guide. Thx for helping us all out.
Scott---Finished up today and checked with multimeter just like you did yours. All good. Future proofed for mini split install. Thx again for your channel.
@@davidgodfrey2956 NICE ONE - Congrats........
You did a great job bringing the wires to the sub-panel. I did a similar install only I put a 14" metal access panel under the sub panel to give easier access to make future connections.
That’s exactly what I will do! Thanks for sharing
@@DanielinLaTuna Also put a 2 x 4 piece in there about 8" from the box so you can staple the romex that comes out of the box.
That spacing you ended up with after cutting everything was absolutely beautiful.
I know it is drastically cheaper using the parts that you did, and that is a big reason even on its own, but why not take this opportunity when needing the subpanel for solar to use a smart panel like Leviton or Span? Being able to get really accurate readings on every circuit in that subpanel is pretty useful for seeing power draw when on battery (if you have one) or from your solar directly. I like the Leviton panel personally since it both looks nice, has indicators positioned so you can see status with the panel door closed, and you can choose specific circuits to be smart and go with cheaper breakers that are not smart for other circuits you don't care about, or the potential to upgrade to a smart breaker whenever you want.
Yeah, I will undoubtedly be jumping into smart panels in the near future. I have been waiting a bit for the products to mature but I know my friend Joel @electricproacademy is a Big fan of SPAN 👍
The main lugs are a dissimilar metal from copper. Therefore, it's a good idea to use an oxidation inhibitor (and remember to wiggle and retighten those stranded conductors).
You would think he would know this as his best buddy is Joel from Electrical Pro Academy.
@@AdamS-lh2ug Right...
If lugs are rated CU/AL it's not required.
Why wiggle and retighten them when I can crimp a ferrule on.
@John Hooton which depends on manufacture specs always always always check manufacture specs.
Great video! Not certain in Canada, I believe the CEC ( Canadian Electrical Code) doesn't allow splicing inside of main panel if exiting to a different system. If any Canadian electrician can comment.
That is correct.
Correct!
If so, then what do you do to relocate those two circuits in Canada?
Good show here, for you DIY'ers go ahead and pull a permit, costs under 200 bucks. Let the inspector sign off on your installation. keep a record for insurance coverage.
Knowledge is power. I know I will not attempt to diy but I have some knowledge and reference to hire a contractor. Thank you for sharing
💯 I am coming to the realization this is a large part of my audience that is why I am starting to work on cost estimators and maybe even a Professional referral system some time in the future. All of us are limited on time and I also hire out certain jobs around the house for various reasons.
@@EverydayHomeRepairsYes, That is why I am here.
You make it look easy, which, I think, is the point. You instill confidence. Thank you!
I would suggest to get black, red, white and green wire next time. It's the same price per foot and you can quickly identify which wire is what.
Good job on the video. I enjoy the channel. Not to throw a wet blanket on your plans, but your bus bar rating needs to be considered in this situation. NEC says (depending on pertinent factors and calculations) you may not be able to add a solar power source to that main panel... if you have a 200 Amp Main Panel, with a 200 Amp Main Circuit Breaker, and 200 Amp rated Bus Bars. For example, if you add an additional 40 Amps of solar power source, factored in @125%, your 200 Amp Main Bus can now be overloaded with 250 Amps of current. Depending on power source and other factors and considerations (i.e.- landing 100 Amp sub panel/solar feed right next to Main Breaker, vs. on the other end of the bus) and calculations, that won't pass an electrical inspection. The new sub panel bus bars will be even more limited, since it has a lower current rating (125 Amp bus with 100Amp feeder CB, plus 125% solar current). Your new sub panel is inadequate for large solar and can't be used as it is. One solution, is to upgrade the capacity of your Main Panel, with a new Main Panel of higher bus bar Amperage capacity. Another solution, is to connect your solar power source to the service side of your 200 Amp Main Breaker, between the electric meter and the Main Breaker. See the existing code that permits that. Of course everything must comply with the NEC and AHJ requirements. Here's some of the references - 705.12, 705.12 (B)(3)(1-6), 230.82(6), lots of others. Good luck!
I think you may be misinterpreting that code section. For instance, that is supplying power not using power. It will be supplying power to circuits that would otherwise be supplied by the utility so to me it wouldn’t make much sense . So for instance, 40 amps at 125% is 50 amperes. I would believe that the bus bars would have to be at least rated at 50 amps. I’m just a carpenter so I’m just guessing
@@highvoltage1979 Yes, the solar inverter is supplying power. And the 200 Amp Service is supplying power. Together they supply more power than the bus is rated to handle. Theoretically, the bus can possibly be carrying more than 200 Amps to the connected loads. Since there's more than 200 Amps available, the Main Breaker won't trip. So the bus isn't protected from overload. What are the odds the bus could be overloaded? Doesn't really seem likely, does it? That's why NEC allows 120% of the bus rating. But, if there's a 200 Amp Main breaker, plus 50 Amps of solar, that exceeds 120% of 200 Amps by 10 Amps. That's a fail.
@@manabouthome That does make sense, I didn’t look at it in that manner. Thanks
@@highvoltage1979 Thanks for asking. I imagine there's a lot of misunderstanding around that, until it's clearly explained. I certainly had to sit and think on it after I first learned it!
I should clarify here, that the 120% leeway on the busbar rating is per 705.12(B)(3)(2) "Where two sources, one a primary power source, and the other, another power source, are located at opposite ends of a busbar that contains loads, the sum of 125% of the power source's output current and the rating of the overcurrent device protecting the busbar, shall not exceed 120 percent of the ampacity of the busbar." However, due to the location of the 100A CB in this video, that doesn't apply. I think 705.12(B)(3)(1) would be applicable - "The sum of 125 percent of the power source(s) output circuit current and the rating of the overcurrent device protecting the busbar shall not exceed the ampacity of the busbar". So, the busbar rating is taken at 100% (not 120%), due to the position of the 100A CB in this case. This would make it worse than I described in the comment above.
Great video, I am rewatching this in preparation to do the same. I do want to point out that there is only ONE phase in a standard residential panel. I was confused by this for years, because people often refer to the legs as phases. During every 1/60 of a second the voltage rises to 120 on one leg and then 120 on the other. When you graph that you get a sine wave, or a single phase. To have a second phase you would need a second set of legs alternating slightly before or after, or “out of phase”. In the real world there is single and 3 phase. 3 phase power is 3 sets of legs each 120 degrees out of phase with each other. 3 phase motors are more powerful and run more smoothly because it is similar to having 3 pairs of people spinning a merry go round vs 1 pair.
Residential systems are usually what's called split phase whereby a single phase from the power company's 3-phase is split through a transformer, providing two legs that are 120V each sharing a single neutral. Think of a two piston engine (legs) with one exhaust pipe (neutral) and you'll get the idea. However, in the field it's common to call both legs phases. Technically not correct but more like electrician field slang. Not unlike when someone checks a circuit for power; they're not, power is wattage and they're checking for voltage. But when someone asks an electrician why they don't have power, everybody knows what that means. Like any trade, electrical has its own language that non-electricians may not understand fully. When a 3-phase motor loses 1 phase, for example, we say it's single phasing. Again, trade lingo, not necessarily what's happening electrically.
You are really going at it these days. I wish I had your energy and your back and neck. 🤣 Looks like you covered all the bases. I'd be willing to do that kind of work, but it would take me a lot longer because I'd have to take breaks. That is, I have the electrical and electronics experience, but I'm not a professional electrician, and I'd also have to study all the codes to be sure it would all meet spec. Looking forward to the next one. Thanks, Scott.
Thanks for the feedback and the support 🙌
Yeah go ahead and do it yourself and if something happens like a fire because you are too cheap to pay someone who knows what they are doing your liable
Wow. Thank you. Your helped me get started on a similar project. Thank you! What a class act.
Happy to help!
In my area (Midwest) pvc conduit is illegal, splices inside the panel are not allowed.
I noticed your main panel had a few ground and neutral wires in the same hole . This is a no-no, neutrals have to be one per hole. Depending on panel some do allow more than one ground per hole.
It’s interesting that 40 circuits is full without overloading the 200A main. I guess as many devices use less power it’s possible, but you should have mentioned that in the opening.
Also, some main panels have sub panel feed lugs after the main breaker. Check codes and local requirements.
You were lucky that the knockout in the main and sub panels fit so well with the elbow. It might be wise to check that fit.
Regarding the hot main lugs, I put duct tape over them to add another later of safety. No guarantee, but better safe than sorry. Likewise gloves are good, but no guarantee.
Thanks for the feedback Tom 👍
Another guy who doesn't know what the F he's talking about. Duct tape is conductive and illegal to use
The average load on a 200 amp service is 60 amps. Not even close to an overload.
@@fuzzymonkey-qe1xp I should have been more specific. I used non-metallized tape temporarily so that the back of my hand wouldn’t brush the contacts. As I was finishing the install, I found that the box manufacturer had provided some rubber boots to cover the main lugs.
I agree that duct tape is not tested for conductivity, since it is not intended for electrical use. I might have just as well stuffed a rag over the lugs, but tape was handy, and about the right dimensions. I did mention that tape is no guarantee and not a substitute for being careful.
@@jeffreyspence2510 Averages mean very little in real life, My boiler can draw up 100 amps, and my water heaters are 40A each, so on a cold day with laundry and a shower running, I’d be drawing 180A.
My concern is that as we add more and more circuits, the potential for overload rises, much like the old joke…
“What do you mean I’m overdrawn, I still have checks in the checkbook.” 🤓
Good job!I've done a few of those after I retired.
Thx Rusty 👍
Thanks for the video. Surprised not to see a whole-panel surge protector.
Yeah, that is on the list for sure 👍
As long as it passes the smoke test, all is good!
Question - I'm from a different country, but is it in american code to leave all earth wires unsleeved and exposed? Every vid I see on youtube has them exposed. Back here, we must put a sleeving over all the earthing wires. Is it hazardous to leave them exposed like that?
I personally like the metal level that was very close to the live main lugs. That is why you should call the electric company and have the power shut off. Just curious, doesn't this need a permit and inspection for installation?
I did that years ago, in my case it was a 60 amp breaker to a 12 pole auxiliary box. I mounted it to the lower right side of the main panel and went through the side.
When you stuck your left arm into the wall cavity on the left, how did you know where to position the hole saw to meet up with the knock out on the existing panel?
There was a center drill done inside the old panel. You can see it when he breaks off the hole.
wow, that's it? I was expecting a lot more. Explanation was clear and concise, very easy to understand
For sure, happy to help!
Understanding the work you performed and the title of the video, but with the installation of the PVC prior to the sub-panel installation, wouldn't you want to install 2 or 3 PVC tubes into the top of the subpanel (to the ceiling of your garage) to eliminate the future task of re-opening the wall?
This is a great video. I'm having a solar system installed and my electrical panel is maxed out, so this was exactly what I needed to know.
Hi. As usual, informative and plenty of insight. I have a 100amp Panel and will put the sub panel like yours. Those 2 breakers you took out of main and put into Sub. for the install of 100amp breaker on main.
So the question is; Every New Circuit goes to the Sub. Panel? If I want to add a Split System I wire it to Sub panel. 240 Car Charger etc? Is that correct? Thanks for your time Sir.
Mike ienuso.
1. One would think that manufacturers would provide plastic covers for the always hot feeder lugs instead of leaving them out in the open.
2. Is 100 amp service enough for all the heavy-draw uses planned?
3. Does code not require that neutral feeds be white wire OR black wire wrapped with white electrical tape? The installer of the original panel did not do that.
KameraShy
Your 1: Covers (barriers) ARE now required for SERVICE MAIN LUGS 2017 NEC® 408.3(D), 2020, 2023 NEC® 230.62(C) and for FEEDER (WITHOUT OVERCURRENT PROTECTION) MAIN LUGS 2023 NEC® 215.15 but the covers are AVAILABLE from the manufacturers (purchased SEPARATELY); it’s the responsibility of the installer to provide.
Your neutral feed wire to the sub panel should be white wire or identified with white tape at each end.. good video!
Someone may have said this but adding a sub panel does not give you more capacity to add large items like a heat pump. Depending on where you live a heat pump can require over 100 amps by itself. It is always best to consult an electrician. I have seen many do-it-yourselfers almost burn down their house not understanding code and how dangerous electricity really is.
Did the new panel arrive with a factory installed Neutral Bonding Screw? Just a thought for anyone unfamiliar. Sub Panel Neutral Bonding Screw, often a green screw looking out of place, going thru the Neutral, must be removed to prevent a loopy ground problem worth looking up.
Nice clean install, either careful planning or plain old good luck got the empty cavity to put your sub panel in.
Thanks for the Add, that would have been good to point out. Square D includes the screw but not installed as least on these main lug panels. I was confident the cavity was open but not 100%. You know how it goes 🤞
As an Electrician I would have upgraded the main panel. And solved the "Bundling" problem you have with all your branch circuits in a single pvc male adapter. And put a courtesy pipe out the top for future additions. But that's just me.
Well he isn’t even an electrician… idk how he’s able to do this. He shouldn’t be allowed
@@samcarbone4139cry about it
You make drilling that first hole, blindly, look easy. How did you locate the knockout without being able to see where you are drilling?
This video is really helpful and coming at at the right time for my project. I currently have a 100 amp main panel and need to add a subpanel to finish off my covid basement finishing project. what size sub panel can I add to my main panel. Thanks.
You can also use tray cable or SER to feed the sub panel. That's my preference for sure, must easier to work with.
Just pure talent. I can do a ceiling fan install😂
Those can some times be harder than expected. Balancing everything up on a ladder is never fun. That is one of the killer applications of those WAGO lever nuts.
I see Feeder Wires going into the Bottom by By Electricians Skimping Everyway they can by saving the Cost of a Couple feet of Wire. I always have the Lugs at top of Panel.
Interlock Kits will Probably still work.
I see it Often enough that it Must be OK.
Been a Master since '98, Still buy the extra couple feet of Wire so it can reach the top. Others mention white tape on the neutral, 2 wires under one lug. Didn't see anyone else mention what I call Upside Down. Maybe it's just me? Habit? You have Helped Many.
Been in the trade for over 40 years and while upside down is legal, it will always look upside down and amateurish to me. It also screws up your circuit numbers, putting odds on the right and #1 at the bottom. Just to save 2' of conductor. I will never let my guys do it that way.
@@pld8993 lol😂
Thanks for this video. It serves my purpose, but also the other video that you mentioned, about a remote panel, which is what I’m also planning, since only one circuit serves it, and the laundry is located there. The washer and dryer really ought to be on separate circuits, and I have a spare fridge there too, and run either a window A/C or a space heater (summer or winter options).
Also I have a large lot and want to run power to the RV (30 amps), to the shop (another 30 amps), and to the spa/hot tub. Seems like those last three will be supported by one 125 amp sub.
Those Wago butt splices look interesting. Thanks for the tip
Excellent video. One of the best diy channels out there.
Thanks, I appreciate the support 👍
man o' man. Couldn't be clearer or simpler. I really appreciate your practical approach to maintaining code while DIY'ing a project! I needed to see those in-line Wago Connectors. PERFECT! Thanks
Do Wagu Connectors have to be enclosed? ie within the box or can they be spliced outside the box?
I think you should spend more time talking about how careful people need to be around those live lugs. It's only 240V, but if you were to short those out, it would be much more catastrophic than a standard 240V short. Because there is relatively so little wire between the transformer, and such large wire, the short circuit current available in a short circuit condition is huge compared to any other short you'd see in your house. You could easily cause an arc flash.
I once bumped the bare ground wire for a range to a main feeder lug. I think it was a 6 AWG ground wire. The neutral and ground were bonded at the stove, and the neutral was already hooked up in the panel. As I was routing that ground wire...it touched a main lug, but for just a quick moment. SCARY. Nothing bad happened, other than noise, light, the wire was warm, and I needed a new change of underwear. Could have been a LOT worse!
Great video. I wonder if there is any way to cover up those lugs below the main breaker. Even working slowly around my panel, I have found myself coming an inch or so away from those lugs and I wish Square D made some type of plastic/rubber cover that could be snapped over them temporarily.
I use thick cardboard cut to fit over and around those lugs, which makes me more comfortable along with insulated gloves. But your point is a good one!
Most likely Square D does make some plastic covers. As all new panels are required to have covers over the lugs per the current NEC. Now figuring out the part number in order to buy the plastic covers...
Pull the meter oh that's right you don't know jack. Keep your dirty hands out of my work. No place for amateurs
Even some electrical tape will help. Cut some strips of tape, a few inches long, and affix them to the black plastic on either side of the lugs...such that it covers the lugs.
It's not perfect, but it helps a ton.
If your not a licensed electrician then you have 0 business working on live power. It's all good until you get killed. All you need to do is pull the meter. If you can't do that call a guy like me
It looks like you are working on an exterior wall so a 2 1/4 inch hole would exceed the size you can drill in a bearing wall with 2x4 studs. Also what electrical code revision are you working under and are you required to have a whole house surge protector with the panel upgrade?
he did say at 3:50 that he had a double wall thickness to work with so I'm guessing there's some type of inner non load bearing wall in place.
You no use identification plastic tape white or white paint for the neutral wire ? Is very important. National Electric Code ? Thanks!!
Did anyone notice he didnt mark the subpanel main neutral as a white wire but left it black like its hot
Yeah would be best practice to mark with some Super 35 white electrical tape, thanks for the feedback!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Not just best practice, it's required to identify it white.
The neutral feed on the main panel was not wrapped/identified as white. I was under the impression, as Don L, that this is required by code. Original electrician blew it. Electrician wrapped with white tape when my main service was upgraded years ago.
Why do people watch instructional videos if they are professionals? Who can I criticize today?
@@justinforrest1613 I post electrical information for amateur subscribers that are being misinformed or are being provided with incorrect information by other amateur experts that need to make sure of their facts before providing informational videos.
Great Video! I see you left room in your sub panel to feed in your 6800 watt Schneider Inverter !
How did you center the drill with the knockout behind the wall. Don’t think you showed that part. Only thing I could think of doing is drilling with a small bit from inside panel into center of knockout through the wood. Then put the drill bit part of the hole saw into the same from other side.
I was wondering the same thing. He doesn't show drilling out the stud for the 1 1/2 pvc.
Scott, basic question for projects like this where main power is OFF..... how did you setup you work area LGIHTING???? thx
I enjoyed it. Great job thank you for your time 👍😎
Happy to help!
This is a great video, very well explained and very educative. This is great, keep it up bro.
Great video! I will be needed to do this in the near future, as my existing panel is at capacity.
To reduce the danger of touching the hot lugs one can get Square D Service Entrance Barriers to cover the hot lugs.
This is a great idea but my panel is on an outside wall and a pain the butt to run wires to it. I ended up using 6/3 for 50 amp to a panel 30 feet away that is more accessible.
If you were using copper wire for your hots and neutral what size would it be, #2 is for aluminum.
Lol Right on point! Always use phase tape to id conductors.
One question please:
When you relocate those two circuits over to the new sub panel, can you just bring the hot wires over, leave the neutrals and grounds inside the main panel?
Thanks!
You could have used the neutral lug right next to the main neutral lug from the meter. And please phase that neutral. Great installation otherwise.
You do not need to move the grounds, they can stay in the main.
Good video. I’ve done this in my garage. Lookin forward to the solar install. I wanna do all diy
Me too, give me about 2 months and we will get it up and running. First system will be small-ish at about 4.5 kW to get my feet wet.
Excellent tutorial for a DIY guy. I will be putting in a 12 circuit 100amp Sub Panel exactly like your video. My question is about choosing a Sub Panel with the Plug-On Neutral feature and GFCI breakers. Is there any difference in where the #6 ground is connected?
Do you need to reduce the wire ampacity for having multiple current carrying conductors in the conduit?
Yes, but he's OK. The three feeders are treated as 2 (the neutral only passes the imbalanced current), plus two moved 20A circuits, so 6 wires that count for wire fill. Derate to 80% of the ampacity.
12AWG = 20A circuit. 12AWG THHN has an ampacity 25A (assuming the breakers are 75C rated), derated it's still 20A, so no problem.
2AWG has an ampacity of 115A. Derated it's now 92A. There's no such thing as a 92A breaker, so a round up to 100A is allowed.
It's also less than 24" so most adjustments go out the window.
I like how you go over this, you did not mention if the main panel was off or not? So many comments about minor stuff, The majors comments are? You forgot to identify / tape your neutral (grounded conductor) with white tape at both ends as required Art 200.6. Dwelling units 100amp subpanel, nothing wrong with using larger wire, but FYI Art 310.15 dwelling units feeders, a #4 is allowed for 100amp sub panel and #8 ground. The comment of 60amp sub panel #6 wire, Code does not that. #6 is 50amps. A #4 is required for 60amps. Any circuit under 100amps are required to use the 310.16 60-degree column.
#6 THHN is allowed for up to 65 amps, allowing one to put it on a max 70 amp breaker. If it was Romex, #6 is rated for up to 55A which allows one to put it on a max 60 amp breaker. It is not true that any circuit under 100A is required to use the 60C column. Romex is required to use the 60C column, but not individual conductors. Because most breakers under 100A have a 60C/75C rating, 110.14(C)(1)(a)(3) allows one to use the higher rating (75C) as long the conductors are rated for higher than the 60C rating, which is the case with THHN. For any breaker/terminal that has only a 60C rating, then max ampacity would be based on the 60C column.
You forgot to color code the cable (wire) neutral =white
I had the tape laying 10 feet away 🤦♂️. Thanks for the call out.
Installer of the original main panel blew that.
My Mother had a heat pump many moons ago and we had NOTHING but problems with it. Turned out it was a bad computer board, but even after that was fixed, it did not provide enough heat when it got really cold. We couldn't afford to buy another new furnace so we had electric radiators that we got for each room. Mother finally got another mortgage and used the equity for a new furnace and went back to Natural gas. Heat pumps also work all summer and all winter, so it's a lot more electric and wear and tear on the whole system, rather than just one at a time and a break in the seasons. Not trying to tell you what to do, just letting you know that they've been an awful experience for us and cost a LOT of money, then even MORE money to fix what we spent a lot of money on in the first place.
Personally I have no valid opinion of electric cars. I personally wouldn't want one until I was certain they don't burst into flames and set your house on fire, and certain that the fire department has full capability of handling those particular fires. You cannot just hose them down and put out the fire. Also, they have all this computer stuff in it and can really mess up your day if one thing goes wrong. From what I've heard, they cannot just be hooked up to a tow truck and towed in. Also, if you have a loan on the insanely expensive car, and you run into a money issue, a third party can access your car via the Internet and make it refuse to start and impossible to drive. So it wouldn't matter if it is in your garage or not. They don't need a Repo man (Professional car thief) to steal your car from you anymore. It also goes for the thug car thieves. They're hacking into them too and doing all kinds of mayhem or just stealing your ride for their illegal acts. Some lady recently had her car stolen, she made a police report and did all that, but she got a "Failure to Appear" notice in the mail. The person that stole her car illegally parked it when he was finished with it. It was cited and it didn't come back to the officer as "stolen" So she had to go to court, show cause of why she failed to appear for the parking violation, and if she didn't respond to that a bench warrant would be issued for her arrest, so she contacted KMOV (CBS News) to help her get that mess sorted out. So in my opinion, those are way more trouble than they're worth. I think if I was a wealthy person, I wouldn't even own a car. I'd just take a cab where ever I needed to go. An actual Taxi Cab. None of that Uber malarkey.
But great video anyway, and your electric panel is so neat and tidy. I rewired a circuit and made a new home run and it's a mess in that panel, and I did not make that mess. I think I did contribute to the mess, but it was my first time ever doing a new circuit with a home run. All the other houses I rewired, were more or less fixing things that weren't done right in houses my Mother purchased. As soon as I get these health issues fixed, which likely will never happen because this country feels that Americans are not entitled to have humane treatment, I am left to suffer, otherwise I'd go in the attic and do things the right way instead of spending even more money to run conduit pipe all through my house, as I need to fix things, with box extenders if I can't get the hole drilled in the right place or get stymied by a fire-stop in the walls.
Now that is a rich post...LOL
Good job, your the Man, 👍👍
Thanks!
Why not just use ser #2 in the wall and two nm clamps ? As opposed to thhn andpvc
You didn't mention what you torqued you load lines. What is the setting it should be torqued to?
wow, you made it look so easy.. one question and this might sound dumb but with the sub panel, i now can treat it like a regular panel right? could I have my generator breaker install on the sub panel instead of the main?
great video. but swap gas furnace for electric heat pump? are you crazy? I would give anything to have access to gas for a gas furnace. I hope you're ready to feel cold.
Great video as usual, regarding installing a 50a breaker on my sub panel and specifically capcity. I have a new Tesla and want to add a 50a breaker on my garage 100a sub panel. Can you confirm that this is no-no please?
Great video - very clear and well produced, thank you!
I understand the desire for people to DIY electrical work, but its not wise to do if you are not trained and licensed, in some states it is illegal.
Next up? How to add a 30 amp RV service to the outside of your house.
Then I would buy an RV 😂
@@EverydayHomeRepairs You’re welcome!
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@@donaldbailey5576
Nah, go ahead and spring for the 50 amp or one of those 30 and 50 amp combos. The 50 amp can be utilised as a secondary EV charger for redundancy.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs
RVs have their own set of DIY challenges and could be good for your channel.
Before he started this sub panel install. Should have calculated the load draw. A lot of the time most pros don't use the amp probe to determine the total ampacity when you add a 100 amp breaker to an existing panel. Load calculation is the determining factor. Usually ull have to upgrade the MDP as well as the feed conductors to make sure u don't overload the system
There's no need to do a load calc when adding a sub-panel. You'll never draw more than the main breaker will allow so it doesn't matter how many 100A breakers you add to the main panel, the system will not get overloaded simply by adding breakers. A breaker's job is not to limit the load; its job is to protect the conductor. Usually you do not need to replace the main panel (assuming it's current and not outdated/obsolete) when adding a sub-panel.
You were having that level rather close to the 3 lugs that could be fatal. I am always nervous about having my hands near those lugs. Is the ground wire here insulated? Ours is bare and yours looks like a 3 phase panel like in an office.
It's not a three phase. Square D just has the neutral close. Three phase would have 4 wires.
Can you do a video on permit application for this kind of subpanel installation? I'd like to add my own generator connection to subpanel for power outage. Is there subpanel with switching to connect to my own generator? Thank you.
Great work I am currently trying to run a 60 amp sub panel from my main to shed it's around 50 ft planning underground conduit my question is what size conductors is recommended thanks for info
Great information, thank you!
You bet!
Hello Everyday Home Repair. Thanks! for the very detail and useful informations. I wonder if instead of a lower amp sub panel, should I make it a 200 amp sub? Then I don't have to buy and make room for the sub breakers using HOML2225 sub feed lug kit? My question is; Is it what this kit for? Please explain what are the (+) and (-) of doing it this way? THANKS1
Quick question? Why install a separate ground strip? Why not use what’s already available?
Didn’t notice you place coating on ends of your service line
So you don't have sub freezing temperatures ever ? If so heat pump instead of air conditioner but you should keep the gas furnace as backup heat for those really cold times when the heat pump becomes inefficient
Great video! Well done and very informative
The 240 v coming into the panel are not separate phases. They are the same phase.
Must be a custom house since no builder puts those QO panels in tract homes. Usually small panels with tons of half size breakers.
Do you have the neutral and ground bond removed at the subpanel? Noticed you separated the grounds and neutral correctly but didn't see if the neutral / ground screw was present (should be removed).
You could have used #4 copper it’s less than 50’ to feed the sub
Super video. Thanks for all your work.
Great video. This brings up a question. Once you do this do your need the city to come out and inspect it in your area?
I was going to wire a small subpanel for my generator initially, but I've decided I want to have room for some future mini splits ac units. Can I wire the subpanel to accept the plug from my generator and have room left for designated breakers for future split units in one sub panel? Do they make sub panels that work like that? Thanks...great video, very well explained...
Thank you for the video ! Great job