Raymarine Autopilot Rebuild ST 4000 Mk2 - drive belt, motor, clutch, bearings, power connector
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- čas přidán 1. 03. 2024
- Hi guys, welcome to East Coast Sailing. I'm Rob & In todays episode, ill show you how to fully rebuild your Raymarine Auto Pilot. You have probably stumbled across the best how to video on how to rebuild your Raymarine ST4000 M2. This unit comes off my Beneteau Oceanis 343 lifting keel which was built in 2006 which weighs 5 and a half tonne. Ill show you the reasons why the unit needed to be rebuilt as the steering was catching even with the drive belt disengaged. Ill show you how to change the drive belt, drive belt clutch, clutch lever, belt tensioner, drive belt motor, bearings, drive belt gears, removal of gear box & cover plates and resoldering the power connector if you have pulled it out. All of these part cost £200 so this will save you between £300 and £520 if you were to buy a reconditioned or new unit. Ill also show you where I purchased the parts from as well as a part diagram. What ever you need to do to get your autopilot working I have got you covered. I used some very basic tools. All you need is an Allen key to do all the jobs and a soldering iron if your changing out the motor. Hope you enjoy and if you learnt something please hit the like button, subscribe and leave some positive comments. Many thanks
Thankyou rob 😃, I was going mental trying to understand how the wind the motor on and not break the electrical connections. You have a great skill of communicating tricky technical detail in an entertaining way. Keep up the great work 👍
Thankyou so much for the kind words ! 🥰
Very helpful. Thanks!
Thanks Jim. Glad it helped you. All the best Rob
Great video ⛵️⚓️
Thanks for your video. Great information.
No worries, glad it helped 👍
HI,
i did the same mistake as you and drilled of the two motor wires. Unfortunaltely i can't recognize which connector has been plus and which one minus.
Is there any marker or does the polarization not matter in this case ?
I measured the voltage at the cable coming from the controller. It changes between 6.8 Volts and minus 6.8 Volts, depending on rotation direction. So polarization seems to be important.
I didn’t see any markings either to show which one was positive or negative. You have a 50% chance of getting it right. If you put the wires in the wrong way round, it will rotate the wheel in the opposite direction. I got it wrong and had to
Swap the wires over. I swapped the wires over on the electrical rather than swapping on the plug as it’s fiddly. Hope it helps.
How do you get 21 ball bearings to sit still while you press the big race back together?
Add silicone gel or grease to the ball bearings. This will hold them nicely until you clip the cover over. Hope it helps
Many thanks! In fact I managed it by (eventually) putting the three bearing holders in place, then holding the round thing in place but at an angle, and feeding one ball holder at a time. Over and over I had escapees, and down to the last two I had the thing mostly clipped in place, forcing it up and down at the same time and shoving the last two in….phew!! Thanks again for your help. And I have a pile of new spares I’m bringing back from Greece shortly. New fronts, backs, belts, a gearbox, motors and spoke brackets. Just bought a job-lot from a charter company. They’ll be going for a song on eBay in the next weeks.
@@guitarrich66 great job, that’s what it’s all about. Your steering will feel like new!
Brill
Hi please from where i can get all parts in the UK?
Hi, all the information is on the video from 2:46 onwards. Thanks
Tx for informative video Rob. Downloaded alreday. I have the same boat, 343 and same autopilot ST 4000+. Updated with a new wheel unit. While sailing with auto mode on the boat tends to unstable and making S. Did re-calibration, rudder gain and response changes but still unstable. Have u got any issues like that Rob ?
Hi and thanks for watching. The drive unit has no intelligence, its literally an electrical motor with a positive and negative terminal so the drive unit isn't the issue unfortunately. It's good the drive unit is snaking and over correcting which is a good sign that things are working just not as they should. It sounds to me it's a sensor related issue. The 1st place id look is the rudder sensor. This is tucked away in the rear bedroom usually through the wider access hatch. There is probably a very badly made plywood bracket holding a sensor to the rudder stock. Check that this is connected and there's no issues of it hanging off. Then put the rudder central and check the display on the raymarine panel which will show the rudder position being central. Turn the wheel left and see id the sensor goes left. If this is fine then I think it's down to the compass usually mounted on the rear handrail called the flux gate compass. Have a google. It's a small black box that looks a bit like a speaker and you should be able to find a manual online. Make sure there are no magnets or speakers near it effecting it and test it.
It's about 5cm by 5cm. Also make sure that the compass box is facing the correct way as it has a direction facing forward as well as it needs to be level to operate. It's amazing the amount of people who put this on 180 degrees in the wrong way round if it comes off as people usually clip them on with pipe clips and they slip off easily.
Hope this helps but it sounds like an easy fix. Regards Rob
Tx for the advise, ll check rudder sensor first. (But not sure my boat has a one since it’s optional and didn’t see any rudder bar indicating port or starboard) I thought it might be mechanical since while motoring it’s working fine but when sails r up it just goes crazy.
You will 100% have a rudder position sensor. It's mounted on the metal pole. Without that your autopilot wouldn't work. It's a small black arm with threaded bat connected to the rudder cable plate. You need to get your head right in that hatch and look but google st4000 rudder position sensor so you know what your looking for. You will have a position monitor on the display but you might not have seen it. Little dashed lines on the bottom of the repeater panel. If it works while motoring then that's odd. I'm guessing if you're sailing then the boat is heeled over affecting the ability to steer. Either the boat needs trimming or you flux compass needs replacing. If you get stuck drop me an email and I'll face time you when you're down the boat next.
@@EastCoastSailing_ Thanks for ur help Rob.
@@EastCoastSailing_ I installed the EV-100 on my O'Day 322 without a rudder sensor. It worked, but tended to hunt back and forth a bit more than I liked. Over the winter I added the rudder sensor, and now she tracks much nicer! So, I believe you can go without the rudder sensor, but the AP works much better with one.