Turned out great! Something I have always used rather than baby powder is a dry erase marker. I personally like black but any color will work. A side bonus is you can do a really fast low power mark that will burn the marker but not the metal surface to see how your engraving will look :)
I like that you can "test" with the black marker but I think it reflects a bit to little of the light for me to see easily. The baby powder reflects more of that red laser light back. Still... You mentioned this so now I am going to have to test it out and make a video on it potentially lol. Curious if you can really mark away the market without marking the metal! That sounds awesome!
@@LaserEverything just have to go fast with low power. Better to start with too low of power than too high and do some testing on scrap first to get it right. Don't want to accidentally mark a good piece when you don't want to haha. I learned the trick at a machine shop I used to work at where we had to mark part numbers on tons of parts.
@@LaserEverything oh, another thing. I normally have a little light pointed at my work piece to make it easier to see everything but sometimes while aligning the laser to the part I will turn off that light so that the red glow is easier to see.
It's coming, we're currently testing out our rotary tool making sure everything works before we start filming those but the equipment is here and the video is scheduled!
Windows Key + Shift + S let's you take super easy screenshots where you can just click and drag to select what you want captured and save it as a file. Typical I just use that snipping tool on AI or lightburn and send screens like that!
That is great. I love the cleanliness of the engraving. Why do you run your hatches at 45 deg and neg 45 as opposed to horizontal and vertical? do you do this on all of your engraving? Also what font was that?
The font is called blackjack. I use opposing 45s because I think it looks a little more organic once it's finished, that's really the only reason. 0 and 90° hatches can look a bit mechanical. I use opposing 45s on most of my stuff unless for some reason two hatches is too much for the material I'm working on in which case I'll usually move to 0° one hatch.
No worries I'm here to help! If you haven't already joined the discord there's a link in the description to the video it's a really great community that I think you would find a great help. Also on the channel some page there is a playlist for total beginners and it walks you through all of the things you really need to know to use your machine effectively so I would check that out as well!
After reinstalling the Windows program on my laptop, engraving used to start from the right side. But after reinstalling Windows and re-installing the EzCut program, engraving starts from the left side. May I ask what is the reason?
a quick question regarding your fiber laser setting libray. Do they adjust to power of the laser automatically? I have a 20w and I'm curious if the settings will be the same as far as power... or is there a simple equation to figure out how to adjust the power to match your settings?
The settings will be slightly different on a 20w but there's now a free to use automatic converter that will take the LMA parameter library and convert it for any laser/lens combo for you in just a few clicks. Super easy to use.
Hi, here´s a comment from sweden;) I have a Welase fiber 20W from Gravotech and I have been working with that machine for a little over 7 months now...we are starting to get along really well but even if I have tried to find someone who can teach me all about lasering I cannot seem to find someone who can... So that´s when I found your channel here on youtube;) I have joined your discord group but haven´t quite figured it out yet...I am really impressed with the white "topcoating" that you are doing on a lot of your work but I am not sure how that works. Do you have any tips on how I can do that kind of topcoating? Is it low power and high speed? . You would make my day if you could give me some tips on where I can get more information:) Thanks! Best regards, Therese
Hey Therese yes it's all about speed power and freq. White finishes are all about medium power medium frequency and high speeds! The settings are showcased in the video. You may have missed them give it another watch!
Have you ever had to improvise on the job? Let me hear your stories!
Love the baby powder tip - never would of thought of that!
Yeah, In my humble opinion it works well on everything except the MOST highly polished of polished mirror finishes. Fine for everything else.
Turned out great! Something I have always used rather than baby powder is a dry erase marker. I personally like black but any color will work. A side bonus is you can do a really fast low power mark that will burn the marker but not the metal surface to see how your engraving will look :)
I like that you can "test" with the black marker but I think it reflects a bit to little of the light for me to see easily. The baby powder reflects more of that red laser light back. Still... You mentioned this so now I am going to have to test it out and make a video on it potentially lol. Curious if you can really mark away the market without marking the metal! That sounds awesome!
@@LaserEverything just have to go fast with low power. Better to start with too low of power than too high and do some testing on scrap first to get it right. Don't want to accidentally mark a good piece when you don't want to haha. I learned the trick at a machine shop I used to work at where we had to mark part numbers on tons of parts.
@@LaserEverything oh, another thing. I normally have a little light pointed at my work piece to make it easier to see everything but sometimes while aligning the laser to the part I will turn off that light so that the red glow is easier to see.
@@brentonrawhoof1967 Yep I have my son in the shop with me all the time and his #1 duty is turning the lights off for me when using the pointer :'D
@@brentonrawhoof1967 Nice, noted!
Love your content
More please
On the way!!
Please make a video about silver ring inside marking and how to use the ring rotary
It's coming, we're currently testing out our rotary tool making sure everything works before we start filming those but the equipment is here and the video is scheduled!
looks good!
Thanks, and thanks for watching!
What do you use or do to show the customer a preview of the job before going ahead with it? And yet another awesome video.
Windows Key + Shift + S let's you take super easy screenshots where you can just click and drag to select what you want captured and save it as a file. Typical I just use that snipping tool on AI or lightburn and send screens like that!
That is great. I love the cleanliness of the engraving. Why do you run your hatches at 45 deg and neg 45 as opposed to horizontal and vertical? do you do this on all of your engraving? Also what font was that?
The font is called blackjack. I use opposing 45s because I think it looks a little more organic once it's finished, that's really the only reason. 0 and 90° hatches can look a bit mechanical. I use opposing 45s on most of my stuff unless for some reason two hatches is too much for the material I'm working on in which case I'll usually move to 0° one hatch.
@@LaserEverything Thank you for the prompt reply! I’m really new to this, so hoping I can start doing more and better work.
No worries I'm here to help! If you haven't already joined the discord there's a link in the description to the video it's a really great community that I think you would find a great help. Also on the channel some page there is a playlist for total beginners and it walks you through all of the things you really need to know to use your machine effectively so I would check that out as well!
After reinstalling the Windows program on my laptop, engraving used to start from the right side. But after reinstalling Windows and re-installing the EzCut program, engraving starts from the left side. May I ask what is the reason?
a quick question regarding your fiber laser setting libray. Do they adjust to power of the laser automatically? I have a 20w and I'm curious if the settings will be the same as far as power... or is there a simple equation to figure out how to adjust the power to match your settings?
The settings will be slightly different on a 20w but there's now a free to use automatic converter that will take the LMA parameter library and convert it for any laser/lens combo for you in just a few clicks. Super easy to use.
How many millimeters is your focus stick?
Mines about 164mm but it's different for every machine.
What size lens are you using?
This video was filmed with a 110mm lens.
Hi, here´s a comment from sweden;) I have a Welase fiber 20W from Gravotech and I have been working with that machine for a little over 7 months now...we are starting to get along really well but even if I have tried to find someone who can teach me all about lasering I cannot seem to find someone who can... So that´s when I found your channel here on youtube;) I have joined your discord group but haven´t quite figured it out yet...I am really impressed with the white "topcoating" that you are doing on a lot of your work but I am not sure how that works. Do you have any tips on how I can do that kind of topcoating? Is it low power and high speed? . You would make my day if you could give me some tips on where I can get more information:) Thanks! Best regards, Therese
Hey Therese yes it's all about speed power and freq. White finishes are all about medium power medium frequency and high speeds! The settings are showcased in the video. You may have missed them give it another watch!