BMW F80 Suspension FAST ROAD alignment Ep2
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- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- We get our new BMW F80 M3 into the workshop and on the ramp for a fast road alignment. We also take a closer look at the tyre wear and what this means for our car.
Our full M3 suspension tuning guide at can be found here
suspensionsecrets.co.uk/bmw-f...
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looking forward to ep 3! :)
Thanks! It’s a wet one!!
Looking forward to the whole series - thank you!
Glad you like them and thanks for watching!
very nice video
i love the knowledge
I had the same tyre wear on m m2 comp after a track day
Thanks! It’s unavoidable as standard on the F8X cars unfortunately. We have fixed the rear camber now but we will need components to get the front end in line 👍
no doubt on your agenda Matt - my m2 comp had brake fade on the "big brake" kit from BMW - The fix was lines and fluid - worth checking once you update the brakes 👌
great video dude - loving the series... will look forward to the next one 👍
Thanks 🙌🙌 we have braided lines and uprated fluid now 👍 I think we will run into heat issues though as we press on with the build. Especially when we are on really grippy tyres and potentially pushing more power too down the line 🔥
Excellent stuff matt, regarding brakes, no need to go bbk on theses, it’s unfortunately the pad compound and poor cooling these have, any Kevlar compound will heat the brakes up and transfer and warp the discs and also leave deposits on due to heat, I’ve tried a few combinations, and found that the Alcon 2 piece discs and some heavy compound pads work very well now, I’ve gone through 2 sets of discs before I tested and found a solution, in my case I use pfc11 with titanium shims as use it on road mostly and it’s very good, you could jump straight to pfc08 as it’s more aggressive but squeaky too, or the likes of pagid rs29 or rsl1 etc. but the key is 2 piece discs for less heat transfer and minimal Kevlar compound pads.
Also castrol srf I use too.
Regards to unsprung weight on wheels, the 20” are very heavy, if it’s just going to be a track car, my advice is 18” wheels, massive difference to unsprung weight and more nimble to drive as apposed to a lardy feel in comparison.
I’m sure you’ll do it in stages for the channel but that’s my own personal experience, and of course you did my geom 👍
Thanks for such a detailed comment! Very interesting reading and makes a lot of sense! We are on the two piece discs now so will see how they fair. Brake cooling is a stage we are looking into in the not too distant feature as they get extremely hot!
We are on the blue stuffs at the moment but will likely be heading across to pagids quite soon. 👍
18” wheels seem like a good choice especially for tyres but there are some interesting combinations in the 19” department too 🤔
@@SuspensionSecrets yeah that’s the only downfall is tyre choice on 18s, but I promise you is drives and behaves differently, that quick reaction opposite lock or doing b road driving is where it shines, the pick up speed is another bonus, I use AO52s as there is quite a good choice in sizes, there’s also plenty choice in the TA approved tyre TrofeoR but do require a bit of heat in them, ar1 personally I don’t rate like many, they are a cheap tyre that’s easier on the wallet and work ok hence popular, but imo they go off quite quickly in comparison to above.. 19s there is a lot more tyre choice but you can still grab some decent tyres in 18s if you can get stock when they are available, they get snapped up quick.
hi Matt, i would recommend the Alcons RC6/4 with Pagid RS29's- they were on my M3 F80 (same colour as yours!) when you did the geo last year at Brands. I had the pagid RS29s on the OEM calipers and rotors prior to that and they weren't bad but the Alcons are another level. Shims recommended to stop the squealing! Mark
Thanks Mark, The Alcon BBK is something we are looking at alongside some of the AP Kits too as we know the Blue caliper setup wont be up to the task of what we will be asking of it in a few episodes time! Shims are a must if used on the road as the squeel can become very annoying.
Subscribed. Great video . Glad to hear I’m not the only one that gets the brake fade, and squirlly front end on hard braking. Didn’t notice until I upgraded my wheels and tires. The stock ps4’s were to greasy to notice on those for me.
Thanks, yes the effects are definitely pronounced with the more grippy tyre or increased rim offset/width as the effects are amplified by the scrub radius increase.
Have you tried upgrading the brake fluid and brake pads to get rid of brake fade? I use Castrol srf racing fluid and Ebc RP-1 pads with the stock discs and callipers. This setup takes a lot of abuse on track.
Thanks for the comment! Yes we are running uprated fluid, braided lines and EBC blue stuff pads too. This combination was much better in testing. We think the majority of the fade originally was likely down to the discs that came with the car being warped.
We will be back out soon to push this current setup even harder and see what it’s limits are now 👍
@@SuspensionSecrets the blue stuff are not really that great on these cars mate, the f80 is too heavy for the blues to keep up
Don’t mess around with EBC get some ds3.12 or 1.11 pads in and forget about doing anything else
@@corkytammy4100 I second that. Blue stuff were the first pad I tried on track and they were awful. Tons of vibration due to deposits and they were so inconsistent, one corner nice bite, the next corner nothing.
RPX pads with the EBC 2 piece discs are a brilliant combination, more than good enough for most especially when paired with braided lines & the Motul 660 fluid, a cheeky extra is the pinnacle brake duct kit
What toe and camber settings are on the front and rear now? I'm struggling with the same issues, traction wise, and since i'm in belgium a quick dash to you guys to correct the settings isn't that possible. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. Feel free to drop us an email or message on Instagram/Facebook and we would be happy to advise.
@@SuspensionSecrets what's with the secrecy on the toe and alignment. You are on a global viewing platform, I'm not going to call you guys nor am I coming to get alignment done with you as I'm in another country. What's your objective with creating these types of videos? Nothing wrong with sharing your expertise so viewers of your content can learn and then take that to their local alignment shops.
Your other video is showing people how to align their own car using a string so your objective of your channel seems disjointed if I'm honest. Anyway just some feedback.
@@hazey888rI agree
get rear to -1,5 -1,7 degree camber end 1,5mm per wheel toe in and front 0.5mm toe in per wheel and enjoy (if you have camber plates at front get camber to -2,5 for fast road occasional track)