DIY - 2012 Range Rover Sport SDV6: Change the rear brake discs (rotors)
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- The existing rear-left rotor on the Range Rover Sport had been incorrectly installed about one and a half years ago, in that the parking brake shoes were rubbing against the inside of the rotor and causing it to overheat. This caused the rotor to warp, which lead to judder not just when braking, but sometimes also during normal driving. So I decided to replace both rear rotors using original ATE coated rotors. I didn't change the parking brake shoes or the brake pads, since these still have a lot of life left in them.
Disclaimer: This video was made in the hope that it will be useful to other DYI-ers that work on the same vehicle model. The author of the video is not responsible for any kind of personal injury, property damage etc. that may arise if anybody tries to perform the same job on an identical or otherwise similar vehicle based on the contents of the video. Every DIY operation performed on your vehicle poses direct or indirect safety risks to you and those around you. Before attempting any such DIY job, please make sure that you have all the necessary tools, support and confidence to see it through successfully.
Great info video, too many people think it is easy and straight forward to change the rear brake set up but forget about the Parking brake. Well done .
Fantastic insight/video for a new Range Owner, Many Thanks for your efforts.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Absolutely fantastic tutorial / demo
Glad you liked it!
Great video, thank you
You are welcome!
This is why they charge you several thousand dollars to do a brake job and rotors. Could be a real pain in the ass for the average shade tree mechanic. But then again many times if you want it done correctly you’ve got to do it yourself.
I fully agree.
32:21 Parking Break Adjustment procedure 😊 (taking notes)
If you plan on doing more work yourself, you can download all the workshop manuals for the L320 from www.mediafire.com/file/t7a6drmb6m4irjw/RRSL320WSM2013.rar. I use the same documentation when working on mine. Also, for the topic of brakes in particular you have Bodsy's brake bible v1.6 which works on the L319 (Disco3 &4) and L320 and which is very well written.
brilliant vid and very helpfull.
Thank you very much!
Great video, I enjoyed watching it.
I like the ratchet you’re using, it looks a great tool.
Can you tell me the make please. 👍
Thanks a lot! Indeed, I bought the ratchet about 8 months ago and it's been indispensable ever since. It's a BGS-114: www.amazon.co.uk/Ball-Head-Ratchet-1-2/dp/B00871XOLQ?th=1
hi I'm French. thank you for your video I am going to replace the rear pads on my land tdv8 HSE sport 2007. I would like to know if it is necessary to put the shock absorbers in the low position with the padlock button? is it going to have a defect when i lower the car? thank you very much
Hello! I've never encountered any defects or dashboard warning lights when I raised my Range Rover, irrespective of the position the suspension was in. For Land Rovers it's actually recommended to raise the suspension to maximum height before lifting it. The padlock button is meant to lock the suspension in its lowest settings in order to allow the car to access locations with a height limit (ex: underground parking lots etc.); it is not equivalent to the suspension lock feature found on VW / Audi / Porsche vehicles.
@@TheMissingBolt Hello thank you for your reply. I am used to working on ford BMW and 4x4 like nissan Patrol etc but the land I always have a doubt because of the electronics of the time. 🤣 I'm going to put the suspension in the low position and I attack. thank you, hello from france.
👍🇫🇷 Simon.
I have the sweeching noise on my left rear too, any advise? My oil meter showed normal oil limit now its show over limit,
Need your help please.
Assuming that the pads are not worn out completely, a screeching noise when braking can indicate that both the rotors and the pads are made of harder materials, or that you have some tiny foreign object (sand?) between the rotor and the pads (in this case, you should also see circular grooves in the rotors). Regarding the oil, if it went from normal to over the limit it means that some other fluid is somehow mixing with it. Most often it's diesel fuel that's needed for DPF regeneration, which doesn't fully exit the combustion chamber and ends up mixing with the oil film on the cylinder wall. On rarer occasions it may be the coolant, in which case the oil will develop a cappucino-like color; this can happen for multiple reasons (warped cylinder heads, worn head gaskets, internally-worn oil cooler or charge-air coolers etc.).
@@TheMissingBolt thanks for replying, now am really concern I hope I won't be over charged for any of the above you mentioned. will immediately set up an appointment with a garage and what ever they might say I will surely inform you sir,
Thank you for helping appreciate it.