Thank you so much for sharing this! I used your method to fix the same issue at my house today. The only difference was that I drilled pilot holes for the 4 small screws while holding the glued wood insert in place with the larger screw. This allowed me to complete the project in one day, and the screws applied good clamping pressure on the glued joint. Your tip of using the plunge saw to start the cuts and the sawzall to finish them worked well. I also tried a buzz saw but didn't feel like that gave me enough control. This was a fiddly project as the measurements need to be pretty spot on and the sawing is slow, but doable if you take your time and are patient. I'm very happy with the results, but hope I never have to do this again!
I've used this twice and everything worked really well. Thanks so much. Only step that gave trouble both times is that the wood glue pulled away from the plywood piece both times. Next time, I'll probably just skip that and drill pilot holes at least for two of the holding screws. To do this, I'd hold the plywood in place as best as possible with the wood screw and try to drill the pilot holes - it's hard to get it all the way through, but I'd just take out the piece and see where the pilot hole was trying to enter and finish it outside the hole.
BDS, why not drill the four outside support screw holes through the door into the plywood backer and after glue is applied just install and screw the retainer screws in tight to hold the backer in place? I have not done any of this before so my idea may not work at all but thought I'd ask...I'm about to do this repair to 4 bi-fold doors. Thanks.
That could definitely work but I was being a little overly cautious in waiting for the glue to dry to avoid the possibility of the plywood shifting while installing the support screws. If the plywood were to shift backwards while installing the screws then the joint may not be as strong. With the way you described doing it, the glue would cure while the screws are holding the plywood in place, which should be perfectly fine. If I were to do this again, though, I would use an instant wood adhesive as opposed to traditional wood glue (I wasn't aware of the instant adhesive at the time). I've used and highly recommend Titebond Instant Bond Wood Adhesive (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RUEJ36/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) paired with their activator (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RUEJ4A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It only takes a few seconds for the glue (when used with activator) to reach handling strength. That way you won't have to worry about waiting for the glue to dry before drilling the support holes. Using traditional wood glue with the way you described doing it, I think drilling the holes after about an hour would be perfectly fine because handling strength (but not full cure) should be reached by then. Good luck with your repair!
I have the exact same issue Except my knobs are finger knobs with a single 1/2 inch screw. Should I just take them out from both doors of the closet ....patch the old hole locations then move them altogether? Good video!!!
Yeah, it's annoying that they don't always come with a strip of wood down the middle. I think that either reinforcing the old hole locations with wood and reinstalling the knobs there or moving the knobs to a new location and reinforcing that location with wood (and patching the old locations) will work just fine. As long as the screw is biting into wood the knob shouldn't work itself loose over time. I think the choice depends on where you prefer the knob to be installed and, if you decide to move the knobs, how well you can get the patch to blend in (assuming the way it looks is important). Or, if the knobs are wooden, it may be feasible to install them in a new location, without adding wood reinforcement, and add some glue to the underside of the knob for the reinforcement. Thanks, most appreciated!!
BDS, I would still use glue but before putting the glue on I would line up the backer and mark it so I know it's correct placement...then drill one hole through the door into the backer while holding in place by the screw as you did....drill the other 3 pilot holes, then remove then tightened screw & put the wood glue on the top and bottom of the backer, put back in place using the markings for correct placement and install the 4 screws through the door into the backer and when the 4 screws are tightened it will hold the backer in place while the glue is drying but also....you could install the knobs right away instead of waiting 24 hours....in theory it sounds like it should work...thanks for your ideas on this....I'm tired of the door knobs coming loose!
That would definitely work fine! But if you're able to obtain some instant wood glue it may be slightly easier than holding the backer board in place while drilling that first hole and then trying to line up the screw holes after putting the backer back. You could glue the backing board in place in 10 seconds and be done with it. I feel you on having loose door knobs. It's definitely annoying! And anytime, I'm happy to try to help!
@@bds, just to make sure you know this....I'm not saying I think you did it wrong...what you videoed definitely helps me... I have some wood CA on hand because I fly rc airplanes and use it all the time...I will use that for the instant bind you mentioned...thanks again...I really do appreciate it!
@@Synthetic11 Totally understood, I didn't think you were implying that. I'm glad it helped. Oh that's perfect! Really cool that you fly RC planes! No problem and good luck with the repair!
Thank you so much for sharing this! I used your method to fix the same issue at my house today. The only difference was that I drilled pilot holes for the 4 small screws while holding the glued wood insert in place with the larger screw. This allowed me to complete the project in one day, and the screws applied good clamping pressure on the glued joint. Your tip of using the plunge saw to start the cuts and the sawzall to finish them worked well. I also tried a buzz saw but didn't feel like that gave me enough control. This was a fiddly project as the measurements need to be pretty spot on and the sawing is slow, but doable if you take your time and are patient. I'm very happy with the results, but hope I never have to do this again!
I've used this twice and everything worked really well. Thanks so much. Only step that gave trouble both times is that the wood glue pulled away from the plywood piece both times. Next time, I'll probably just skip that and drill pilot holes at least for two of the holding screws. To do this, I'd hold the plywood in place as best as possible with the wood screw and try to drill the pilot holes - it's hard to get it all the way through, but I'd just take out the piece and see where the pilot hole was trying to enter and finish it outside the hole.
Fantastic work sir
Very good explanation! Thank you!
Thanks this was very helpful!
So smart!
This is brilliant! But I have a question as someone who has barely any tools, what do you recommend I absolutely purchase to do this? Thank you!
good idea
BDS, why not drill the four outside support screw holes through the door into the plywood backer and after glue is applied just install and screw the retainer screws in tight to hold the backer in place? I have not done any of this before so my idea may not work at all but thought I'd ask...I'm about to do this repair to 4 bi-fold doors. Thanks.
That could definitely work but I was being a little overly cautious in waiting for the glue to dry to avoid the possibility of the plywood shifting while installing the support screws. If the plywood were to shift backwards while installing the screws then the joint may not be as strong. With the way you described doing it, the glue would cure while the screws are holding the plywood in place, which should be perfectly fine. If I were to do this again, though, I would use an instant wood adhesive as opposed to traditional wood glue (I wasn't aware of the instant adhesive at the time). I've used and highly recommend Titebond Instant Bond Wood Adhesive (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RUEJ36/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) paired with their activator (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RUEJ4A/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It only takes a few seconds for the glue (when used with activator) to reach handling strength. That way you won't have to worry about waiting for the glue to dry before drilling the support holes. Using traditional wood glue with the way you described doing it, I think drilling the holes after about an hour would be perfectly fine because handling strength (but not full cure) should be reached by then. Good luck with your repair!
I have the exact same issue Except my knobs are finger knobs with a single 1/2 inch screw. Should I just take them out from both doors of the closet ....patch the old hole locations then move them altogether? Good video!!!
Yeah, it's annoying that they don't always come with a strip of wood down the middle.
I think that either reinforcing the old hole locations with wood and reinstalling the knobs there or moving the knobs to a new location and reinforcing that location with wood (and patching the old locations) will work just fine. As long as the screw is biting into wood the knob shouldn't work itself loose over time. I think the choice depends on where you prefer the knob to be installed and, if you decide to move the knobs, how well you can get the patch to blend in (assuming the way it looks is important). Or, if the knobs are wooden, it may be feasible to install them in a new location, without adding wood reinforcement, and add some glue to the underside of the knob for the reinforcement. Thanks, most appreciated!!
BDS, I would still use glue but before putting the glue on I would line up the backer and mark it so I know it's correct placement...then drill one hole through the door into the backer while holding in place by the screw as you did....drill the other 3 pilot holes, then remove then tightened screw & put the wood glue on the top and bottom of the backer, put back in place using the markings for correct placement and install the 4 screws through the door into the backer and when the 4 screws are tightened it will hold the backer in place while the glue is drying but also....you could install the knobs right away instead of waiting 24 hours....in theory it sounds like it should work...thanks for your ideas on this....I'm tired of the door knobs coming loose!
That would definitely work fine! But if you're able to obtain some instant wood glue it may be slightly easier than holding the backer board in place while drilling that first hole and then trying to line up the screw holes after putting the backer back. You could glue the backing board in place in 10 seconds and be done with it. I feel you on having loose door knobs. It's definitely annoying! And anytime, I'm happy to try to help!
@@bds, just to make sure you know this....I'm not saying I think you did it wrong...what you videoed definitely helps me... I have some wood CA on hand because I fly rc airplanes and use it all the time...I will use that for the instant bind you mentioned...thanks again...I really do appreciate it!
@@Synthetic11 Totally understood, I didn't think you were implying that. I'm glad it helped. Oh that's perfect! Really cool that you fly RC planes! No problem and good luck with the repair!
@@bds, thanks and have a good weekend!
So smart!