CT90 Clutch Adjustment
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- čas přidán 6. 04. 2020
- This a video on how to adjust the clutch on a Honda CT90 and this is also the method that would be used on other Honda models with an automatic clutch. If you found it useful, please like and subscribe!
Here is a link to my CT90 blog where I have a much more information on how to work on a CT90 and also CT200's: ct90restoration.blogspot.com
You can see a complete video of the cut-away CT90 engine featured in this video here at this link: • CT90 Engine Exposed! - Krátké a kreslené filmy
GREAT VIDEO !! PERFECT for us slow learning people. NO distracting music or UNNECESSARY extra words. Thank you VERY MUCH! 👍😎
I watch this each time I need to make the adjustment to remember the left hand thread mechanism. Thank you
Great video, Michael. Clear and concise. Great to see how the mechanism works during adjustment. Really helpful. It would be great if you could do a similar video demonstrating the timing chain adjustment.
Super cool cutout! I love seeing how things work. Thank you!
This is amazing! I love to learn how these mystery things work, and when they actually work
C70 passport owner here I would like to say thank you so much.
Thank you for taking the time to make this most excellent video. Makes it easy to explain what the adjustment procedure does. Same system is in many foot shift auto clutch motorcycles and ATV’s.
Excellent, best explanation on adjusting the CT90 clutch on you tube. Watching the cutaway engine is great to see exactly what's happening when the adjuster is turned. Thanks for posting.
man this video is awesome. so much easier to do it right when you understand what's going on in there!
Great job VERY well done sir!!!!!! This is a big help PLEASE do more just picked up a '70 CT90 with minor rust all original with 916 miles with a fresh Dr ATV bore and cam !!!!! Thanks for all your hard work on this the split case is very eye-opening, kinda old school, well done!
Thanks for the hard work that went into this video. 👍
Pure art! So well done, thanks for sacrificing an engine to show this
Nothing like a cutaway,,,appreciate it. The cheap Chinese atv i have is similar but threading is diff for the stud but gives me the idea of whats going on, thank you
Best clutch adjustment video on the tube! Thank you
Awesome video very well explained. Amazing cut away work on the engine. Thanks.
Your website has been very helpful. Just got myself a project CT last week that hasn't run in a long time. It has quite a few "farm fixes" that I'm sorting through.
It is an excellent tutorial. Spoken at a comprehensible rate.
Clear and concise instructions. Thank you for your help.
Giving like #501...Just picked up a ct90, I think it's a 66-67, has the dual sprocket design. What an awesome video with a pro style break-away view!
This is the best way to learn how it works, you have a picture what happens, many thanks
This is one really cool "cut-Away"of a CT-90 Engine and Transmission. First one I've ever seen!!! Really nice! This sure adds quality to a instructional video! I hope to see more! Thanks so much for Sharing! New Subscriber. :)
Excellent video - useful and informative - well done!
Hey Michael, thanks for this, very helpful 😊
Now that was a very good demonstration.
This video is the first and only thing that has given me the confidence to do this myself. Thank you for posting!
Isn't CZcams amazing! Its like having every college, shop, and demonstration ever recorded available anytime, anywhere you have phone or computer access...truly one of the most impactful human collections.
This video is golden!
Thanks for the informative video.
Fixed both my Hondas thanks!
You're welcome and I glad you found the video helpful!
1/8 - 1/4 turn => good for semi clutch 👍👨🔧
Thanks for your video 👏
After I watch this video and read service manual => 1/8 turn out: Yamaha Sirius 110 cc
Great clear information
Bloody brilliant 👏
Very helpful thanks👍
Nice demonstration
Great video so good !!
exelente gracias por la explicacion
Thank you!!! Omg thank you!!!!
This is excellent!
Grazie, ottimo video.
Thats incredible
That is absolutely the best video on a clutch adjustment that I have seen. Thanks for posting this. Do you have a video on putting all the pieces back together between the clutch and the cover?
I'm glad you like the video. I don't have a video on how to assemble the clutch hardware, but I have a very detailed post at me blog that explains how to assemble a CT90 engine that includes assembling the clutch hardware here at this link: ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2018/05/ct90-engine-reassembly.html
Very helpful 👍
Very very very nice job ! My bike have automatic cluch with 4 speeds ,same engine. In this case what i shoud do? Sorry for my bad english.
Congratulations. You have some of the greatest videos on CZcams.
Thank you so much for your hard and very helpful work.
Question: would a CT 90 run without a battery, or a dead one for that matter? Thanks.
Thank you for your positive comments on my videos! With respect to your question, no a CT90 is not designed to run without the battery. One of the first things to check on a CT90 that is hard to start is how charged up is the battery. If the battery is low you will never have a bike that starts reliably. A great resource for Honda CT90 and other Honda's that are 6 volt is the "Honda 6 Volt" group on facebook.
@@michaelmineart1889 thank you for sharing such important information with me. Very much appreciated.
Brilliant. Thanks
incredible!
Thank you!
Dood i was scratching my head saying fk im just gonna take it apart to understand it, u saved me!!! Thx
Superb🔥💪
Finally, someone who doesn't show me how to rebuild the clutch to adjust it. Most of these guys, if you ask them what time it is will tell you how to build a watch. All I wanted was to know how to adjust the clutch without taking the whole thing apart. Thank you oh ye of few words. Extremely helpful.
Hi Michael. Love the videos! 2 things: Your blog doesn't seem to be rendering properly. Would love to access the content. Do I need to sign up? The other thing is, what is an indicator of needing to do a clutch adjustment? I have a CT110 and I've noticed that it's very hard to shift up (moving the shifting lever upwards with your toe). Is this a clutch problem? Thanks.
Hi,
With my blog, when people are having issues seeing the pages it is usually related to having an ad blocker turned on within their browser. You can see if you have an ad blocker turned on and then turn it off or you might try a different browser. I hope one of those options works out for you.
With your hard shifting adjusting the clutch might help if your clutch is adjusted such that it takes more travel of the gear shifter before the clutch is released. The clutch is pretty straight forward to adjust, so it shouldn't hurt anything if you do. Lifting the shifter up always is a little more difficult especially if your wearing a soft tennis shoe and not a boot, but the more important factor is to time the shift with letting off on the throttle slightly so that the engine isn't under load momentarily during the shift. If you try and shift while the engine is under load it will make it more difficult to shift.
Not to get into an oil discussion, but some people find that they're bikes shift smoother when using a synthetic oil like the Shell Rotella T6 for Diesels.
I hope this helps.
Mike
Sométimes things for me are not Intuitive or immediately obvious superficially. Case in point here with other descriptions, videos and even the service manual/pdf's I could NEVER work out why turning the screw Loosened the clutch unt counter clockwise tightened it, after all righty tighty, lefty loosry. Utterly confused and frustrated with my stupidity id convince myself things are not as they seem and I would have avoided doing this on the clutch as the methid didn't make sense. This video was invaluable in showing what was actually going on inside the mechanism. I.e. the screw is actually turning the plate opposite to its direction of motion. Thanks for the enlightenment siré .
Gréât tutorial, would improper adjustment cause hard shifting¿
thanks!!
Great cutaway and video. I've been working on my buddy's 1969 CT90. It had shifting issues, and I later found the shifting star screw was loose. Before and after I fixed the shift drum star, every time I take off the clutch cover after a few rides, the bearing plate is damaged and the balls fall out. Looks like the bearing plate is spinning and the shifter arm busts it's cage apart. Do you know what could be causing the bearing plate to spin? The best explanation I can come up with is that the new clutch I put in wore in quickly and created too much space in the adjuster assembly, letting the bearing, plate spin. I've already killed 3 bearing plates and just replaced the rest of the adjuster assembly to see if any of those parts was the problem.
Hi Ian, It's hard to say what might be going on, but I don't think your problem would be due to wear in a new clutch. I would recommend that when you do go to reassemble all of the clutch assembly and linkage that you do it with the bike laying on its side so that its easier to keep everything in place while you install the clutch cover. While I doubt it is an issue, you should make sure the small bearing on the clutch assembly that one side of the bearing plate installs into freely rotates. I've also included the following link below from my blog where I go into detail on how to reassemble a CT90 engine, which includes the assembly of the linkage you are having issues with. This will give you a reference that you can compare to what you have been doing. ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2018/05/ct90-engine-reassembly.html
Good Luck and I hope this helps!
Mike
Hi ! Super nice video, question, if when i shift in 1st (does the same for all gears) when i give gas, there's a delay when the bike starts moving, i feel like the clutch is not adjusted properly, is it ? (I have an ST90 tho, should be the same even tho you have 4 speed)
Without ridding your bike it's hard to say what may be going on, but if you want to eliminate the clutch adjustment from being involved with what your experiencing I would just go ahead and adjust the clutch as it is a pretty straight forward task. Since the clutch in the CT90 & ST90 are centrifugal designs, the clamping force within the clutch increases with rpm's. So depending on the load on the bike (one big person or two people on the bike) and how worn the clutch is, the engine rpm's may have to be higher so the small weights within the clutch can apply a high enough clamping force to prevent the clutch from slipping and get the bike moving forward. I hope that helps...
Thx a lot Michael! Very helpull. 👌👌👌
Nice. Should the gearbox be in neutral when you do this? Great vid, cheers!
Thanks and there really isn't any reason you would need to have the gearbox in neutral, but the engine should not be running when you do make the adjustment. When you are adjusting the clutch you are really only setting the clearance or free play in the mechanism that actuates the clutch pack when you depress the lever to shift gears.
Hello, what if this adjustment doesn’t help? Does that mean the clutch needs replaced? My son’s auto-clutch Panterra 70 dirtbike stalls when shifting from neutral to 1st. But, if you do a ‘rolling start’ and shift, it stays running and rides fine through all 4 gears. Thanks
Thanks for the video! Mine was working perfectly then at a stop sign it died. Started right up in neutral but putting it in gear killed it. The clutch won’t disengage. I’ve tried adjusting it many times to no avail. It will not idle in gear unless the back wheel is off the ground. It goes into all gears (hard shifts), Ideas?
When you are at idle the clutch is engaged, but slipping and as you increase rpms the throw weights within the clutch create greater clamping forces so the clutch stops sliding and away you go. If the rpm's at idle are high enough your clutch won't be able to slip which could cause your problem. Assuming your idle is fine if the steel plates that separate the clutch discs go over heated and warped then that would potentially prevent your clutch from slipping when you first put it in gear and stall the motor. Another possibility is that you have a lot of crud in your clutch assembly that is limiting the slipping that needs to occur when you first put it in gear, have you ever disassembled the clutch assembly and cleaned out the area at the center of the clutch that collects crud? When you pick up an old CT90 it never hurts to go through the clutch even if the bike is running Ok as its an area the degrades with time, so its nice to start with a fresh rebuilt and clean clutch assembly. I'm a big fan of using synthetic oil in my CT90's like Shell Rotella as I think my bikes shift better (or it could just be in my head). One test you might try is after you start your bike in neutral when you go to shift into 1st gear (and I'll assume you press down to get into 1st) keep the shifter pressed down. If your bike continues to idle with the shifter pressed down now slowly let the shifter come back up and see if that now stalls the engine. If it does stall the engine then that means your clutch isn't slipping at the idle rpm and needs to be taken apart to see what's causing the issue (warped discs or crud). I hope that helps
Thanks for the video. If I'm getting oil leaking from that adjusting nut, is there an o-ring that could be replaced on the threaded adjusting bolt underneath the lock nut?
Your welcome! Yes, there should be an o-ring on the inside lip of the stamped steel cup under the adjusting nut. I can't include a picture here, but if you go to my blog post on rebuilding a CT90 engine at the following link and scroll down about halfway through the post you'll see a picture of the cup with the o-ring. ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2018/05/ct90-engine-reassembly.html
@@michaelmineart1889 Thanks for the reply. I did find an o-ring in there and I replaced it with a 7/16 ID one from the hardware store while waiting for a proper one to arrive in the mail. I have stumbled across your amazingly detailed site a few times now for other info I've needed along the way. Easily one of the best CT90 resources out there. Keep up the great work. You're the hero we all need!
Great videos! Any suggestions on a 1966 CM91 that doesn't seem to want to stay in the correct spot to allow kickstarter to engage crankshaft. Thank you in advance
Thanks! I don't have any experience with CM91's, but you might join the Vintage Honda Motorcycle Owners of America or the Honda OHC Horizontal Singles groups on Facebook and ask your question there. Those groups are pretty active and I'm sure someone will try and help you out. I didn't look, but there could even be a CM91 group also on Facebook.
@@michaelmineart1889 appreciate the reply, the engine seems very similar!
Thanks for the video! In my case i feel good ammount of resistance. So from this point i will go 1/8 back?
Since no one answered, yes. Back off about 45 degrees. Too little slack will cause the clutch to slip under load. Too much slack and the shift lever will try to shift the transmission before the clutch is released.
@@JeffinTD Thanks!
I've not had good luck with my low-mileage '78 CT90 clutch. When I adjust it with a cold engine it only works smoothly until the engine heats up. Apparently, the case expands and changes the adjustment. Then the clutch doesn't disengage. I've replaced the clutch and some of the adjustment mechanism. I had a Cub (50) with no clutch problems for the 8000 miles I put on it, and never touched the adjustment. It's frustrating.
Hello again, now i see my engine have 2 cluch, how can i adjust this tipe of cluch?
Many thanks. Can we presume that Honda used more or less the same engine and clutch setup on all Super Cub variations?
I'm not really that familiar with all the Super Cub variations, but I believe in principle they are similar. There is a big family of Super Cub's from the 49cc models from the early 60's to the 125cc models being produced today, so while they all may have automatic clutches there are differences in the designs from the 60's to the models being produced today.
I have a Honda NBC 110 which is a later model but same sort of centrifugal clutch. However I am unsure what to expect if the clutch is worn beyond the adjustment process you show. If it the clutch is worn, is one of the symptoms that the bike lacks power when under load? I'm expecting the bike to achieve easily 80km per hour. Another test I did was to put the front wheel up against a wall, put into first gear but when I try to load it up, the revs won't build up. Basically what I want to know is, how do you know when the clutch needs replacing?
Hi Jim, I don't have any experience with the Honda NBC 110 bike or with its clutch design. With the Honda CT90's one of the tell tale signs your clutch is worn is that there is a noticeable amount of slippage when you are kick starting the bike as the kick starter drive through the automatic clutch. I assume that the kickstarter on the NBC works through the clutch also, so you might give it a try and see if it feels normal. Clutches don't last forever, so if you put a lot of miles on your bike it possible its time for a new clutch. Have you tried asking your question on the "Honda Super Cub NBC110 & C110X Cub 110" Facebook group? There might be someone there who can better help answer your question. Mike
My bike is hard to shift and requires a lot
Of strength to get bike into next gear. How much should I back the adjustment out for loosening the resistance a bit? Right now I am using 1/8 turn
The last step where you back of the screw an 1/8 of a turn when you are adjusting the clutch affects how much the clutch is released when you go to shift gears. If you only back off the screw 1/16 of a turn you will get a little more release within the clutch when you shift gears which could help with your issue. you can play around with the adjustment to see if it helps at all, but you always want to back off at least a little so that you can assure your clutch is fully engaged when you are not shifting gears. Some people find that they feel their bikes shift better when they use synthetic oil. If you don't notice any change when you adjust your clutch or change your oil, it might be that one of the steel plates in your clutch assembly is warped and dragging which would have the effect of the clutch not fully releasing when you try and shift gears.
Good luck, and I hope you get your shifting issues worked out.
Does this help with at 125CC semi-automatic that jumps out of gear intermittently could that because the clutch needs adjustment??
I'm not that familiar with the 125cc semi-automatic to say for sure that adjusting your clutch would help, but it certainly wouldn't hurt. If the clutch wasn't fully releasing it might be preventing you you from getting completely in gear (but most likely not). If it were me I would change the oil to make sure that crud wasn't impacting the transmission and adjust the clutch and see if it helps. Good luck and I hope you figure out what is causing your bike to come out of gear intermittently.
Would you happen to know the valve clearance on a coolster atv 125cc the GY6 Honda clone?
Sorry, I don't have any experience with a coolster ATV
I guess I should ask you this question. My ct 110 is hard to shift gears. They shift well enough, but it is so hard to work the shifter that it hurts my toe to lift up on the shifter. Therefore, I just put my foot on the heel of the shifter. Will adjusting my clutch like this aleviate that problem?
Adjusting your clutch may not help your issue, but its easy to do and worth getting it adjusted correctly so you know it isn't part of your problem. The one thing that might help is to switch to a synthetic oil like Rotella T6 5W-40. I run the Rotellla in all my CT90's and think it does help with shifting (or it could all just be in my head...). The other thing to keep in mind is that you need to let off the gas before you shift so the RPM's will drop and allow the centrifugal clutch to reduce the force it is applying to squeeze the clutch pack so you're not fighting it when you shift. I own a number of CT90's and they all require shift a little different from each other, but I tend to press down on the heel of the shifter out of habit when I am ridding them and don't look at it as a problem and its just a characteristic of that Honda engine/clutch design.
@@michaelmineart1889 Thank you so much. You have been a world of help.
🥰👍👍♥️
Can you tell by looking at the adjusting screw for the clutch if your clutch plates are worn?
From my perspective, no you can't tell if your clutch plates are worn by looking at the adjustment screw. The adjustment screws real purpose is to control and minimize the gap between the mechanism that releases the clutch and the engine housing that covers the clutch and that the clutch release mechanism needs to push against to release the clutch. One of the best indicators on if your clutch plates are worn is if you find that your bike isn't starting as easy as it used to when you kick it over. The kick start system on a CT90 actually drives through the clutch assembly to rotate the crank/piston assembly and what you'll find that is if you have good compression, that the piston doesn't go through as many strokes because the clutch is slipping. Once you experience this it will be more obvious, but the kick starter will feel funny/mushy when the clutch is slipping and its time to get new clutch plates.
@@michaelmineart1889 sir thanks for answering me can your answer be the same for 1986 ct110?
I have 1980 ct 110 . i have done exactly what your saying and i am not having any luck adjusting this thing like i know it should it what going on .
Hi Bruce,
What type of issue are you trying to address by adjusting your clutch?
Mike
Its started a a down shifting issue were it was having some trouble getting in gear i would in gage it to shift and it was jumping out of gear and kind of grinding a little .I watched your video and a couple others and thought well its one of to things. Either its not adjusted rite or the plates are bad . I followed the same method you showed and its not grinding but i did something wrong cause its not the same .
Idk somethings not rite it always was jumpy threw the gears and when holding the shift lever all the way back it would not engage tell the heal was released now it just goes in gear even when heal is held back on pedal.
When I loosen the locknut and turn the screw clockwise there is no motion. When I turn it CCW it is free and has no resistance. Do you know what this would indicate? Could the adjustment screw actually be disconnected from the clutch?
If the adjusting screw gets turned CW too far the what I'll call a ball detent plate gets adjusted too far out from the clutch and bottoms on the flange on the adjusting screw and it won't allow the screw to turn anymore. The reason you don't feel any resistance when you first start turning the adjusting screw CCW is because you have a ways to go now before the detent plate will bottom against the clutch assembly. I would try continuing to turn the adjusting screw CCW and at some point you should feel resistance if everything in clutch assembly was assembled correctly.
Thanks for the quick reply. I was able to continue to turn ccw a couple of turns and felt resistance. Then followed the rest of your procedure. Ot appeared to work for about 5 minutes of driving. It appears that my bike is shifting gears however the bike will not move. can the clutch friction ates just be too worn for the bike to move when in gear? Seems to me that when it was cold it worked but only after a few minutes of driving it will not move. Bike runs fine otherwise. Any ideas? I do have the correct oil for a wet clutch.
I'm not sure I understand when you say "after a few minutes of driving it will not move"? Is it that you can rev the engine while you have it in gear and the bike doesn't move? If the clutch plates are very worn then you usually will have a hard time starting the bike as the kick-starter actually drives through the clutch pack when you kick the bike over. One of the first signs your clutch plates are worn as your kick-starter will feel kind of mushy and not really spin the engine over very well which makes it difficult to start. I've ran across people who thought their clutch was bad because their bikes wouldn't move when they rev'd the motor and the real problem was they just were not in gear. Some bikes shift harder than others, so you might possibly step down (stomp) a little harder than normal on the shifter to get it into gear and see if anything changes. The other thing that you might try doing is go back and and adjust the clutch again but this time when you screw it in and feel resistance continue to screw it in another 1/4 to half a turn and then back the screw out CW a full turn to where there is no resistant and then screw the screw back in CCW until you feel resistance and then back CW about a 1/16 of a turn. It's possible when you fist adjusted your clutch and hit resistance you might have been just been feeling some bur on the thread or crud in the mechanism and not really contacted the clutch assembly just yet. Good luck and I hope you get it figured out.
This is relevant to the CT110 as well, correct?
That is correct
sort of counter intuetive realy if they put a left hand thread in that fitting it would be more sorta like just screw it in till it contacts then back off a bit
Hi I carnt feel resistance on mine it stops and won't turn no more when I turn left fully and right
I think you are ok. When you are turning the screw counter clockwise (after turning it clockwise for a few turns) it should turn freely initially and then it will reach a point that I referred to as "resistance", but could also be described as the point where it "stopped". The key thing you are trying to do is to identify the point when you are turning the screw counter clockwise where it goes from requiring very little force/torque to tun the screwdriver to where you would have to apply torque to the screwdriver to get it to turn anymore in the counter clockwise direction. The goal is to just get to that transition point and then back off a 1/16 to an 1/8 of a turn in the clockwise direction.
what does it mean when it kicks out of gear while riding and I have to shift back in again. Need clutch adjusted or something more severe?
It's hard to say, but it could be as simple as not being assertive enough (maybe not the right words) when your shifting or you have a lot of sludge in your oil and it's time to change your oil (this unlikely the issue, but it never hurts to get fresh oil in your engine). From a mechanical perspective, a lot of times when people start to have problems shifting it is because the shift drum stopper has broken or more probable, the screw that holds in the star plate the the shift drum stopper interfaces with has come loose so the plate now has movement. The first picture at a post I did at the link below is a picture of the shift drum stopper and also the star plate and screw. ct90restoration.blogspot.com/2017/08/shift-drum-stopper-replacement-when.html
Would that work for the ct110 ?
Yes, the CT110 has the same basic design for how the clutch is adjusted.
When i go to kick my bike it feels as if the clutch is rubbing, and results in the kick not catching. Could this be because the adjustment is not right ?
Generally when you go to kick over your bike and things don't feel right, it's because your clutch discs are worn and slipping and need to be replaced. While very unlikely, you could incorrectly adjust your clutch by turning the adjustment screw ccw past the point where you fee resistance and not back off the screw cw, which would essentially leave your clutch partially disengaged and cause your clutch to slip.
Adjusting the clutch is pretty straight forward, so I would recommend adjusting your clutch and see if things improve. If they don't then it's most likely time to rebuild your clutch.
@@michaelmineart1889 First of all thank you for you detailed response. I will give the adjustment screw i retry while watching your video as a guide if that does not do the job then i may buy a replacement clutch. Nevertheless the bike does start just that issue of the clutch occurs after every other kick.
@@michaelmineart1889 Also i would like to ask for a base setting (factory) for the adjustment screw as i turned it way to many times back and fourth searching for the right spot.
On mine, when I shift it into gear, it just drives by itself. I'm sure it's the clutch. What do I do?
It could be a couple of things. If your rpm's at idle are set too high then the clutch may already be trying to engage since it is a centrifugal type of clutch. Another potential cause could be that the metal disc's that are between each of the friction disc's in your clutch are warped or worn and need to be replaced. Whenever I have clutch issues I don't spend much time trying to think about what the problem is, I just buy a gasket for the side cover and a new set of clutch disc's and rebuild the clutch and it has always taken care of the problem. Once you've pulled it apart once you'll find it's a pretty easy thing to do and it's also nice to get in and clean the oil screen and the debris trap that's part of the clutch assembly. Another easy thing to try that may or may not help is change your oil and use a synthetic. It's probably just psychological, but I've switched to using just the full synthetic Shell Rotella (I forget what weight at moment...) and have fewer clutch issues and feel my bikes shift better.
Now i see, this is automatic too
I just did an auto clutch on mine, put it all back together properly as there aren't many parts but now on shifting it wants to grind when I try to shift. It eventually engages. Have I adjusted this type of auto clutch improperly? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. God bless. (Fixed it. ThanQ everyone) qmap.pub
One thing that you can try is to vary how you adjust the clutch and see if anything improves. So you can try both not backing off as much or backing off a little more than you did initially after you felt resistances and see if one seems to make things better. Also, sometimes people find using a synthetic oil like Rotella T6 provides smoother shifting.
@@michaelmineart1889 it worked. ThanQ Sir!!!! God bless.
Wondering I have a z50 and tried to adjust the clutch and the issue I am having is still there. The issue is that when you shift into gear and hold your foot down on the shifter it should still be in neutral until you let up on shift lever. Mine is not in neutral when shifter is pressed down in in in gear while still in down position. Do you think that is a need for clutch disc replacement? Thanks for any input. By the way very nice video showing the adjustment.
I would first ask if there are any clutch related issues when you are out ridding and shifting your z50? If the answer is no, then I wouldn't worry to much about not about the your bike not being in neutral when the shifter is pressed down as your not really going into neutral, you are just releasing the initial clamp up on the clutch pack. What you experience will vary from bike to bike as the condition of the clutch disc's, any warpage in the metal disc's that are in-between the clutch disc's and any build-up of crud in the clutch pack can all impact how much residual drag you might experience when releasing the clutch with the shift lever. Again if your z50 rides and shifts just fine in normal use, I don't think you really need to do anything. When I pick up a new bike (and I have way too many CT90's) I do generally pull the side cover and rebuild the clutch on a bike I plan on keeping just because it will probably need it sooner or later and I like to start off with a new clean clutch assembly. I hope that helps.