Knifemaking: Building The Classic Bushcraft Knife | Kephart Blade, 52100 High Carbon Steel
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Come along as I show you how I make my version of the classic Kephart knife. Constructed of 5/32" thick 52100 high carbon steel this knife provides an excellent tool for the avid outdoorsman, hunter, and self reliant person.
firecreekforge...
/ firecreekforge
#kephart #knifemaking #bushcraftknife
![Forging The Kniv [Norse Style] High Carbon Steel Blacksmithing Knifemaking + Singing Amazing Grace](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/k_qSEM2E4Bo/mqdefault.jpg)
As a craftsman, you should know files only cut on the push stroke. You must go through a lot of them. Great looking knife.
My favorite knife design when camping and hunting..
I've made two myself. One with a 3-1/4" blade, the other "normal" size. 4-1/4" I believe.
Awesome Workmanship 👌
Great knives and video!
It's also nice to see some flat ground knives with relatively thin edge geometry doing some bushcrafting in a world where people have come to think that only Scandi and convex grind knives can do bushcrafting...
Hard to beat the basics! I couldn’t agree more with 52100 it’s all I use for monosteel blades.
A real friend in need!!
Absolute gorgeous knife! I really love this style
Stunning knife! I love the simplicity of this iconic design. One of my favorites you have created so far.
The original is kinda difficult to replicate perfectly though with stock removal. Even though the design looks simple to my understanding the original blade had distal taper running towards the tip, but also to the handle, then the blade profile was slightly double convexed, and it actually gets slightly wider from base of the blade towards the tip. All those are fairly easy to do for traditional Smith, but not cost effective in production knife so we dont see exact replica widely available. What i have heard Beckers knife out of production kepharts is the closest dimensionally, but even he dropped the double convex profile, and such.
I wish I lived closer, so I could get on of your knives! Not many people know, that your knives, because of their designs and the materials you use, make the best possible outdoors knife! That's perfection from a users point of view.
He does have a website fyi
@@donknotts5625 I know, I just live in Greece!!
@@greekveteran2715 I believe I can ship to Greece, although customs, etc may make it prohibitive.. Thanks for your input on 52100, thanks for watching!
Awesome show. I love the knife and 52100 is one of my favorite knife steels.
Мужик,ты крут,и нож крутой.
Excellent build. Thank you a great looking knife.
Результат просто поражает,как исполнение так и его свойства👍
Really liked this video. Especially enjoy you showing how it should be used...TO THE EXTREME!! Sorry couldn't help myself.
Kool kephart knife
Very nice simple user friendly knife.
Thanks!
I love to have one...
I posted previously, but I'm not sure what happened because my comment did not show up. But, I wanted to compliment your Kephart knives, they are very nice. Additionally, I wanted to say that my family came through Pennsylvania long ago and I have ancestors there. They spell their name "Colclesser" and some of these people had a knife making business. They evidently made the first knives for Horace Kephart in this style. Just a little family history.
Very cool!
Wonderful knife
8:27 yes! I just made a video on my channel talking about how the handle of the knife is the most important (and often overlooked aspect) of a design. Great video man, I gotta pick up a Kephart sooner than later to try out. Subscribed.
Even more awesome work! Thanks!
Very Nice
Thank you
My take on the "forging vs. stock removal" is this: I prefer watching forging because it shows more skill. I simply find it more interesting to watch. And I love the fact, that you tell about the metallurgy, that is interesting! Great work.
@@oliviercoen446 Interesting. I did not know. 👍
@@oliviercoen446 I 100% disagree stock removal is a lazy man’s way of doing knives. Blacksmithing is historically the way it was done. What a load
@@richardbryant7972 I hope you are a bladesmith with a comment like that. Lazy doesn't translate in the world of metal working. Either style. I do both. Most folks do that call themselves bladesmiths.
@@oliviercoen446 not true at all. Forging blades you have the opportunity to change the metal on a level that stock removal does not. Make a blade thicker than it's starting stock without forging? Not a chance. Forging a blade allows you to change density of grain, and or aligning grain to the tip of the blade. In stock removal it's unidirectional. Arguably not as good.
@@oliviercoen446 yes. The direction usually runs along the length of the stock. Straight to the end, not curving with the tip of the blade shape. We recieve stock annealed, ready for forging or stock removal. My even heat kiln and tailor made quench oils (aluminum plates, and cryo for stainless) allow me to heat treat with the best of em. That's where a steel is make or break. The heat treat. But I would take a blade to a comp that was forged all day long. The grain direction will follow the shape of the blade, which lends strength. Both forms of smithing are valid. Alot of new steels don't lend themselves well to forging, so stock removal is necessary.
Lovely looking knife, I'm personally a fan of the spear point and high-grind with a fine edge, like you say, if the steels good then the edge wont deflect, chip or warp. One of the criticisms I have of a lot of 'bush craft knives' is that they tend to have a 'chisel' like quality to them with the lower 1/3rd or half only ground to a bevel and it will tend to wedge into harder timbers. That's particularly and issue here in a Australia as basically all our timbers are hard as a rock when they're dry, we don't tend to need to cut down trees due to branch shedding with lots of free firewood on the ground and if you're going at them with a knife- well your going to be one extremely sad puppy who left their axe or hatchet at home!
(or better yet, a chainsaw)
So depending on where you are in the world, the knife tends to be a mix of utility that might mean whittling a fishing rod holder or cleaning said fish if you get lucky, dressing game or cooking with around the fire. That design lends it much better to those overall duties than just beating up trees :)
I agree! Thanks for watching.
Great job! but I cant help but think that a sharpening choil of some kind would take the Kephart design to the next level.
Very cool, no fuss knife that ...sharp shiny object ....O-O
Nice work, certainly holds a good edge.
Wow!
Very nicely done, beautiful knifes.
Thanks Randy!
Awesome video. I learned a lot. I dont work much with 52100 but i hear and see that it is a very high quality steel and it lends its self to be resharpened easily.
Thanks for watching! Yes, I like 52100 steel, it's my go to now.
@@FireCreekForge That steel have better optimal perfomance over A2 or 80crv2, for example?
@@craftandnature 52100 has better edge retention than 80CRV2, and it's easier to sharpen than A2. Somewhere in between those two steels I suppose.
Nice video, great camp knife
Thank you, I appreciate it
Nice looking knives, certainly good edge retention, good job 👍 . Regards from Down Under.
Thank you!
Flatten the blade. I was understanding the blade should be belly shaped as to it's functional working wood and processing camp meat.
Beautiful handle and 5200 steel I'm going try that steel.
Thanks great audio skills 👍
Awesome work man!
Thanks a lot!
I forge all of my Damascus by hand and then cut to shape! We can do it all do some puck what works best for what we have to work with! Just doing it is half the fun!
Yep some techniques I find advantageous depending on the project
Nice work keep it up👍
Thank you I appreciate it
Muy buen trabajo, muy bonitos esos kephart
Let Me remind You , that
" beauty " , is in the eye of the beholder ! ( I love the Kepheart style knife . )
I would love to have a version of it , made to slip into a front pocket of My
jeans , without being noticed .
How much are You asking for Your knives shown in this video ? ( they look great )
😍👍
Very nice..like to see with landyer hole
I want one…
Easily the best blade steel, for a hard use belt knife of any kind. Hunting, survival, bushcraft, you name it. I own 52100 blade knives, that Cut 2 times longer than CPM 3V, have better edge stability, are far easier and faster to sharpen and cut better too. Only my Vanadis 4 Extra blades have similar qualities. so that and ballbearing steel, are by far my favorite steels to use. Ballbearing is the steel that made me a steel nob, something that I never expected to happen to me, and I was loughing at other people who had fallen in the marketing trap of 3V, 1095 etc...
and they are very easily accessible ttoo yah!
@@pasikhawm7419 If you know about knives, yes they are. Even Spyderco makes folders with that steel and if you do your own resarch, you'll see that Spyderco folder's performance with that steel, -proves my point.
-Protech makes good knives with 52100
-Cold Steel makes knives
-Busse uses that steel calls it SR 101,
-Montana Knife Company uses ONLY 52100 steel on their blades!
-Lon Humphrey knives are made with 52100
A ton of other factory, custom and semi-custom makers use that steel. It's the most famous steel for hunting knives.
As I said, nothing performs that good, nothing comes even close to that, any other will lack something. Ballbearing is pure perfection!
@@greekveteran2715 well thats very great news as i have a couple of flattened(,ready to make knife) bearing race laying on my shed
OK, good job, however, you missed one very important thing on your Kephart. The original knives had a flared section of wood right before the handle and blade meet. This flare is in the wooden handle. Check out the K-Bar BK62 Kephart. It is correct to a T.
I don't remember what the video shows exactly but my Kepharts have an elongated hour glass shape on the cross section, very secure comfortable grip. Thanks for watching
Great looking knives! Reminds me somewhat of one of my favorite “store-bought” knives- Ontario Black Bird SK-5. Simple & practical, yet a tough, durable and clean design.
Also, Not a steel expert So not sure how 154 CM Stainless Steel ranks against 52100 HIGH CARBON STEEL.
This video was awesome! I’m a huge fan of yours and of the Kephart knife. On my hip right now, every day, is my Esse PR4! I did upgrade my handle to an aftermarket G10, which imo made my knife not only more comfortable and functional, but it gave it a really cool look. I was wondering if you could do some knives with layered G10 that would complement the blade? Anywho, thanks for all you do! God bless!
Thanks for watching!! I don't like working with G10 handle material very much (except liners) but micarta is an option I like.
Wonderful piece...what are the numbers on the heat treat?...and what hardness is the blade ?I dont have a digital oven...gas forge with thermocouple..
Splended work! Very good. I guess you don't sell to Sweden!?
Thanks! Yes, I ship internationally.
@@FireCreekForgeWhat is the size of the blade in this video?
And what is the price for the knife it self?
Do you have any idea about transportation cost?
@@VikingTorolf I have the cost and dimensions of the knife and shipping on my website, just go to firecreekforge dot com and click on Knives And Axes For Sale
Nice. Hard to beat simple designs. Havent worked with 52100 yet. I started with 1075 and wen to 80crv2. Have you compared 52100 to 80crv2 yet? Im mainly wondering which has the better edge retention.
Never realy understood the need for batoning. Ive hunted/fished and camoed in over 6 countries, the last of which was 8yrs in the canadian rockies. And they last i months of that was touring all around canada. Camped in all types of forests from boreal to broad leaf. Never once did i have to baton anything. To me its just putting undue stress in a blade.
Great stuff! The original Kephart has an upward swedge for thumb/hand support/protection on the scales closest to the tang, why don't you have that? Any specific reason?
I make these with an hour glass shape to the handle which I find comfortable and secure.
Do you wax the blades at all to help fight any rust
No I don't
Starting with a stock that doesn't require hand hammer work send like cheating, but it's the route I would take...
Ganhou mais um escrito, consegui ver uma dúvida que eu tinha em fazer o gume da faca nos mínimos detalhes que vc colocou a câmera na frente entre lixa e lâmina da faca, parabéns e obrigado.
Fantástico cuchillo!! Cuantos ciclos de temperatura antes de templar??? Y temperaturas por favor, normalizado y temple. Gracias
I would like to buy one, also i always wanted a 6" version. Thought the two would be cool! How much is this?
About $300, free shipping
Huh, I thought that a forged blade was considered superior was because the grain of the metal flowed around edges/corners rather than being "cut" so it resulted in a stronger blade. Or at least that is how I remember it being explained to me some time ago.
It's not that stock removal is inferior to hand forging a knife,
but I do believe that a forged
blade is a better and more
durable knife. I guess you can
say to each his own. Best of luck with your blades.
Ha firecreek forge, could you try to make a damascus San mai with a stainless steel core? I would love to see how it would look. I looked it up but didn't see anything.
Thanks for watching! I don't know of a reason that couldn't work, probably not something I will try in the near future, too many other projects I want to do right now
@@FireCreekForge ok, thanks for letting me know. The main reason I wanted to see if it would work is, I'm a self tought beginner blacksmith. And I want to make a specific custom knife for my best friend. I even made my own "lore" for the knife. Unfortunately I don't have the funds to do get the tools I need to do it with.
Fantastic! When will more of these be available?
Thanks! It will be a several months, but make sure to sign up for my email list on the front page of my website to be notified when new batches of these and other knives are ready. firecreekforge dot com
great set of knives Elijah great heat treat i love that style would love to make one is it ok to use your design?
You bet! It's just my take on a classic design
Great job 👏 my favorite carbon steel is 8670. Curious to know what your thoughts are or if you've ever used it. It kinda just always did what it was supposed to for me, tough as nails and then afterwards when I pick up an old knife I made it still has such a fine but also very bitey edge if you know what I mean. It's funny how most everything new kinda sucks...I went to a classic boat and car show and was reminded how crappy the new ones are. Tools too, nowadays a cordless tool lasts all of two weeks and my dad still has working tools from his dad. Anyways, can't wait to see the next one 👍
Also like you mentioned, my knives gotta be easy to strop or hone back to that hair popping sharpness we all love. 52100 is the one I gotta try next It looks like.
I have not used 8670 before, have heard good things. It would certainly be great for a heavy use chopper, but it won't have the carbon content to provide the best abrasion resistance/edge retention available when compared to higher carbon steels.
Personally I like anything with a titanium mix to the steel. 52100 is a great metal, personally I like stuff that can last generation plus of use. Most folks don't know how to properly take care of a carbon based knife lol
@Kung Fu Dugong did you mean chromium? Yeah 52100 is sweet
@@jusme8060 yeah I was wrong sorry 😂
New sub. Kephart style knives have been a long favorite of mine. I'm not familiar with the 52100 steel. I'm curious to know if there's enough carbon to throw sparks with a ferrel rod like a 1095 knife spine would.
Thank you for the video. Your knives look great.
Thanks for subbing! 52100 will work on a Ferro rod. Actually since it's the Ferro rod that throws the sparks any hard sharp object would potentially work.
@@FireCreekForge ok,
I've used stainless and crv80 and wouldn't throw any sparks.
Thank you for your response.
Look forward to checking your videos out.
metalurgy is fun to listen thoughs on hardenable SS ever tried it?
I've made knives from AEB-L and S35VN with good success.
How much do you charge for one of these I am interested
Where do you buy your steel from?
This steel came from New Jersey Steel Baron, you can order online.
how much for one of your Kephart’s?
where you can buy steel plate?
If you're talking about blade steel, I usually use New Jersey Steel Baron.
Great respect for the craftmanship and knowledge you show. But neither the Kephart or Nessmuk are original designs or 'classic' bushcraft knives. Bushcraft is as old as human kind. For both Kephart and Nessmuk it was their food prep aka butchering knife. As you mentioned both also did bring an ax or hatchet for the rough woodwork and a small folding blade for the fine wood work.
You did show that your knife can handle it all but that does not make this style a 'classic' bushcraft knife.
How much for the knjfe
I have some posted on my website with all the information
How much would you sell that for about
Is this the infamous "fake" hacksaw cut? Lol
Stopped watching when you used a hacksaw with a band saw in the background