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Making and installing new engine shims
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Stu just from somebody who really is on the outside looking in I would say piss off to any of the people who are giving you grief about starting the engine you have a great deal of money tied up in this project and impatience could cause you to create more problems than you already have I say take your time do it right and in the end you will have an exceptional trawler to do whatever you want and it will be reliable and you won't have to worry about something broke down because of rushing to do something of course that is just my opinion but I think you're doing a hell of a job.
Thanks Roy, I think you are dead right. I hate the thought of damaging something that I have just put a lot of time and money into but rushing for no real reason.
Brian. When it’s your money on the line do what you want !! Stu is taking his time and I can’t say I blame him. He will start it when he is dam good and ready and it will be done right.
@@DangarMarine Last thing you want or need is a runaway, lots of things on the list are there to prevent it. Other things just need to be done to make a key start a reality. We have all seen it make smoke and noise. The alignment really is a critical step to the long term viability of the boat. I couldn't imagine you would be thrilled about having to replace the prop shaft or bearings to try and make a few people happy. I honestly think that would make many viewers like myself very disappointed. Good things come to those who wait
Yeah I'm over a LOT of sites and groups on the internet ... the internet was always a troll land but now it's got purely toxic and everyone's an expert on shit.
@@ji6050 well pay for a full time mech for him lol. This seems more his part time job rather than full time job so it will take time given the initial state of the boat. If you don't like it watch another. Take a look at Tally Ho ... it's over 2years now I believe and only just finished re-framing.
It's all about the journey not the destination. All the work leading up to the engine start is why I'm here. I am in no particular hurry to get to engine start because once it starts....then what?
I will stay with the parent's group and patiently watch all the steps leading up to the engine start. And I will even be excited if the engine doesn't start :)
Hi Stu....Immensely enjoy your videos !!! just a word for someone who HAS done engine/shaft alignments !!! For now. forget about starting the engine, that's the least of your concerns now. Correct alignment is CRITICAL for several reasons, one of which is breaking down at the worst possible time (going thru a narrow inlet with a strong current) or (docking in a confined area with other boats around in windy conditions). If shaft/engine alignment is not within specs, your cutlass bearing and shaft bearing and seals will wear very prematurely, your shaft will be damaged/worn in these critical areas, (think you've spent a lot now, wait till your far from home and at the mercy of a marina). Also vibration will not only be incredibly annoying but cause more problem and is an indicator of not only s/e misalignment but possibly other problems. You have one prop (I did alignments on a twin with 1 1/2 shafts) it MUST be as bulletproof as possible, please save yourself, money, time, aggravation and possible injury...do it right the first time. How much money did you really save by not getting a new shaft or at he very least have the old shaft machined to a consistent diameter, penny wise dollar foolish, ALWAYS bites you in the end
Stu, just keep going like you do now. It is still your boat. Follow your own plan, because you have to sail it. And like other people already said, there is a lot of money and effort allready in the boat, no need to rush things just of some impatient spectators.
Doing a great job, keep it up.
Thanks mate.
I am enjoying your shows you put on CZcams. Those that want you to hurry obviously have never done the amount of repairs/changes you are doing. I worked on aircraft for 27 years. You just cannot rush your work! Keep up the good work.
Thanks Warren. I do imagine those expecting me to just turn the key are a younger crowd who don't have much experience with this type of thing. There is nothing wrong with that, and "Wow, this all takes a lot longer than I thought it would." is an entirely valid comment, and one I make to myself all the time. The idea that I am intentionally dragging it out to be cruel or milk the job for videos is a bit of a stretch though. I want it running as much as anyone! :)
She's looking good Stu. As regards the 'hurry ups', Workshop rule #1 is still applicable....My workshop/boat=MY RULES ! Really enjoying the build and glad that you've got so much rain after the fires.
Thanks mate, it certainly is great to get some rain finally.
"Hacksaw vs. angle grinder" and "dissimilar metals", talk about comedy gold!!!!! ;-D To heck with the boat stuff, I came for the laugh riot!!!! Oh, and thanks again for another chicken update!
Stu, ignore the arseholes. Once you start the engine, they'll stop watching your videos anyway. Life is a journey and I thank you for making the effort to bring us along with yours. Wish I was there (and younger). I'd come down every day, give you a hard time and drink your beer ;) Life can be fun although a little frustrating sometimes.
You start up when EVERYTHING is good .... take your time mate !
Thanks Adrian.
Hello really enjoy your videos for alignment purposes we mount a magnetic dial indicator on the prop shaft coupling and rotate it, move the motor around to minimise the runout keep up the excellent work regards Paul
Hi Stu. I have a Clipper 34 That I use as a project approach and I really enjoy your detailed and very-analysed thought processes. Please continue to share as I feel that many, many others are quietly enjoying the viewing. FWIW where I am not learning something new I am gaining confidence by being reminded that most big problems are simply a series of small problems. A big THANKS from me.
Thanks mate. I’m glad you’ve got your own project on the go. If there is one main thing I wanted people to take away from this project it is that most of what I am doing here I’ve never done before and that with a bit of research and patience we can all achieve things we didn’t thing we could. :)
Anyone who would question your reluctance to startup, just didn't watch the video. I saw enough stuff yet to be done that I could have made a lot of that list myself. You're doing an organized slow and steady on process. No worries! I'm loving it. Regards, Solomon
Thanks Solomon. Yeah, it is a bit obvious when you drop an engine in that it needs to be connected to just about everything!
When i used to work on small boats in Halifax harbour many moons ago, we used an ullage tape , because a couple of our boats had the exact same issue.
Its just a metal tape measure, with a brass weighted end & we would often put 'paste' on the weight. It was there to detect water in the bottom of the fuel tank. Some brain somewhere figured out the irregular dimensions of the tank= how many gallons & that way we knew by the amount of inches showing on the tape, how many gallons of fuel we had, there was also a little valve right at the bottom of the fuel tanks with a threaded plug, you remove plug, allowed you to drain "water" . I was younger and skinnier then & it was a pain to get at those damn valves I remember.
Keep at 'er & never forget that "slow and steady may not win the race , but you still get there & you're not outta breath"
Good work Stuey, coming along nicely, screw all the drongo’s who are chomping at the bit to get the old girl fired up, it’ll happen in good time. A measured approach, hey don’t forget to plug the fridge back in, the last thing you need on top of everything else is warm beer!😂👍🏴
Your shop is killing me. My OCD is on high alert. I wanna come down there and straighten the whole shop up and organize it so you don't lose things. Kidding (mostly) Love the channel.
Enjoyed this one also. You are working your plan that is what matters. The job is done when YOU are satisfied. Glad to see the rain there. Cheers mate, and respect. 👍🇺🇸
Keep the pace that feels right to you. Showing the list from time to time is helpful to understanding what needs to be done.
As always Stu, find your own speed for getting things done correctly. Any arse can miss steps and end up destroying an expensive engine. No point spoiling the ship for a ha'penny worth of tar. Quality video as we have come to expect. Thanks as always.
There are marine engineers with a life of experience and then there is Dangarstu that gets more done in a month than what most engineers can manage in a year and he does it with such patience, humour and youtube videos. Awesome stuff Stu! Ignore the wankey fire it up commentary. The dispute of ear muff dissimilar metal was golden LMAO!
Stu it never ceases to impress me that anything out on the water in your boat , Is twice as hard as it would be anywhere else!
This whole series is playing out like a favourite book with the pending engine start up looking like being the last chapter of a book I don’t want to stop reading. You are doing a great job and despite - or perhaps because of - your occasional self deprecating (and amusing) remarks, it is absolutely fascinating to watch. The way you present your recordings makes them very easy to listen to and entertaining to watch. Please keep doing what your doing because watching you each week is like having a cool drink on a hot day, it’s both real and refreshing. Cheers and thankyou from Steve in Mount Gambier.
Thanks Steve, glad to hear you've been enjoying. :)
Keep going stu really worth taking your time to get it right. The longer you take the more we get to watch.
I think the lists are a really valuable lesson, we all come for various reasons, some of us are here to learn, others to vicariously own a trawler. This list tells us, just how big a job it all is, sure, we see an engine in the hull, but as the list tells us, there are so many other things that need to be done. And given the weather conditions on the Hawkesbury of this weekend, Stu will be full time keeping Renko above the water, especially without the engine bolted down.
I find the list helps everyone (including me!) get a sense of what it is going to take. It also stops me getting overwhelmed because you can always just focus on the next job on the list and break things up into manageable steps.
1) another great video! 2) Dipstick: small dia pvc pipe 3) dissimilar metal: good one! 4) lots of us in USA glad to see you have some rain. Aussie Brush fires are still in our news. Can’t even imagine. 5) Plasma cutter in shorts: brave! 6) those of us who DO boat maintenance are not worried about how long it takes. 7) my experience: Alignment not hard, but needs patience. 8) measuring in inches? Humor? I’m stuck with it, and hate it. Thanks again from US.
Stu,
No rush please!
I am all for learn as you go. However, a smart man taught me this along time ago.
If you don’t have the time to do it right the first time, when will you have time to fix it?
Then fixing is always so much harder and frustrating!
ROCK on
For sure, diagnosing is harder than just going it right first time.
For your alignment coupler Use a bolt and some washers bolted to the engine flange to get the thickness. Clock the bolt at 3:00 and 9:00 and set the engine for left/right alignment. Do the same at 12:00 and 6:00 for tilt up/down. With some feeler gauges and a square you can get it spot on. just requires turning the engine over.
Call around and rent an "Opti line plus" . It is a lazer alignment tool accurate down to a thousandth of an inch. You can use your poly-flex coupler with it and it will get it spot on perfect. I use one at work to align big industrial motors with pumps and things. Very simple to use and set up.
Thanks mate, I’ll check it out.
It's a good idea to do an initial alignment, followed by a repeat alignment, as you mentioned. The new resilient mounts may settle a little from the "as new height", after engine torque and vibration together with propeller thrust are applied. The second alignment will correct for that. Greg
Between the chook, the dog, the back yard engineering, and the def leopard joke more interesting viewing than pay TV
after half a year i came back to this channel and just binge-watching all videos since then :D
can't wait for the boat to run on its own again
Yes, a good well machined spacer to take the place of that flex coupler will help get your alignment right. Try to prop the shaft in the middle of it's play in the stuffing box. The hose allows it to droop a bit from the weight of the shaft and coupling flange when it's just hanging. Then align the engine gearbox flange along with your solid machined spacer on it to the shaft. You'll be golden then.
Yes, will support the shaft a bit before aligning.
Pleasant surprise with a video this morning and the engine bay is looking great. I can now see the time lapse on the chronograph clock in the pilot house/studio. I guess the the actual clock repair was done off camera. Look good Stu as usual.
Stu just do whatever you need to do on your own schedule and don't worry about what other people what you to do. You have to do whatever you need to do. Better days ahead
Thanks mate, for sure.
I enjoy your clear explanations about what needs to be done. I say this as someone with no knowledge otherwise.
Great to have a mate like Peddles to give you a hand. Stoked to see Eddy in this episode too.
Great job mate! Planning what needs to be done, then doing what you have planned is smart to stay the least. Thanks for the update
Hey Stu, a set of dial indicators and a few cuss words and you'll get it figured out on the alignment. I used to do that on a fairly regular basis, but it's been years. The trick is getting the faces to be square with each other exactly when the torque on your bolts are proper. We used very thin metal shims. I have know idea where to find it, but there is an algebraic formula we used and it would get you surprisingly close right out of the box.
"Dissimilar Metals" - my god! 10/10
Love it! Let's have a grown up conversation. Pre-commissioning stage cannot be skipped else all previous work can fall in a screaming heap. It is what it is. Next step after that is commissioning.
Thanks for another great video. What a difference the engine compartment looks all clean & painted from what it did when ya first pulled the engine. She seems to be coming along great. Can't wait til ya finally crank her up & run some trials. See ya in the next one.
Stu. Tip from a shipwright if you do it right you can sleep at night. It’s the journey not the destination.
True words.
Ahh. dissimilar metals... Good one! Love to catch up on your project once in a while. Looking good. I've done many of the jobs you're doing on my steel sailboat over the years.
You take your time on the startup, The job is coming along fantastic
Don’t rush it now, The longer it’s takes more videos to watch and what’s wrong with that 👍👍
I’m pretty exited to see you’re boat getting under way again.
"I've got the proper tool right here, but I'm going to use this one instead" Love it. Oh, and "Dissimilar Metals"..... Floored me!
Hi Stu
A suggestion for a flexible fuel gauge stick: a length of yellow tung from plywood floor sheeting. Can also be used for draw wire when running electrical cables.
Cheers John
It will get done at the pace needed to do it right. Noticed at 15:04 there appears to be a pair of hoses coming around a bracket with a sharp edge, could be a problem at sea. Keep up the good work, we can wait for the start!
Nicely put, Ken.
Bluetooth ear defenders!! Can't believe I'm getting H&S advice from the bloke who uses a stick welder wearing "safety thongs"😊 Keep going Stu, its going to be great to see Renko moving under her own steam.
It take as long as it take. devil in the details. keep up the good works. I enjoy the complex work you are doing.
It sure is Lee!
Not to worry, one step at a time. More important to do this right the first time, and cheaper then rush into something that involves alot of money and more time in the long run. Cheer up mate your closer to start then you think. Looking back on the countless hours which you have put into this project, amazing
Looks like those plates were sheared. Left and right hand nut fitting too ! Proper !
It took me awhile just to get comments. Some are good, some not so good but when I do get a negative comment I look to improve if possible. Otherwise I just blow it off and not let it get to me. I do this for fun anyway. The sound of the rain makes me feel right at home. Haha another thing is the plasma cutter is awesome. Cuts fast, no noise and the material doesn't get hot. Love it.👍
Making a machined dummy spacer to replace the flexible coupling during alignment could save some time.
Good thought.
Hey Stu, please stay true to yourself, the time it takes is the time it takes. There are too many "reality" shows out there that can transform a 1000 sq ft house into a mansion in 1/2 hour. Dissimilar metals... good one - laughed out loud!
Thanks Guy. It is a good point about so many "reality" shows making jobs much easier than they really are. I guess that's where a lot of people get their expectations from.
Nooooo... Not the fridge !! Oh The BEERMANITY ! Please say there is a cooler on board man . LOL Looking great so far and thank you for bringing us along and the hard work !
I laughed way to hard at the 'dissimilar metals' comment!! Another great vid!
Beginning of the video, reaching for the hacksaw "This is the right tool, but its hard to use so will use the wheel cutter" LOL! As said below you are taking your time and addressing every current and potential problem as they arise. Rome was not built overnight and neither is this trawler. I've watched all the videos consecutively so far and you are doing great and taking the setbacks with a grain of salt and good sense of humor and beer, gotta have the Coopers! Also Love seeing all your mates that are helping plus the 4 legged ones, especially that white curly thing, Eddie! Looking forward to watching the rest. Justu it!
Stuff the haters Stu for us ones that truly understand the painstaking bits that come with engines, you taking your time is what we expect. I certainly share the excitement of seeing the engine running but also want you to do it properly. So good luck and I look forward to the next vid.
Would be a good idea to put caps on your engine room vents to keep rain from getting in.
Forget the haters Stu. Your real audience doesn't care how long it takes, the journey it worth the wait. Also if you weild a couple of plates down past the engine on the prop side you may be able to fix a couple of bottle Jack's to each side of the engine and use them to push the engine away from the prop shaft coupling in a controlled manner. They may also give you left and right swing of the fitting if one jack was pumped more than the other. And slow release back towards to shaft if the engine wanted to slide that way anyway?
Thanks mate. I have been thinking about welding a couple of plates than can be used to push the engine (and maybe even prop shaft) from. It is the thing I love about steel!
I’m doing my own project boat atm and it’s hard and everyone always thinks everything is moving too slowly!!!! But at the end of the day it’s your boat and your skills and knowledge that are building that boat. Your doing a great job and I loving the vids
Analysis paralysis, I love that term. I've suffered from that for years but had no idea what the clinical name was. I shall use that from now on, giving you full credit of course. Best of luck continuing forward, really enjoying the build.
I'm astonished I've never heard the term before, I've been wrenching on stuff for 30 + years. I did a powerhead on my 200 hp Black Max recently and dicked around forever analyzing was there anything I'd forgotten, something I didn't do, was everything torqued properly, etc........
Back in the day, it was "fenner" couplings Stu :) , We welded nuts to the engine mounting (engine side) then screw bolts in them 16 mm ,( long ones) for adjusting motor up and down, that's the easy bit, then side movement same sort of thing bolts to adjust the rear and front left and right. I first saw this as a youngster in mining adjusting 20 tons of water pump....
feeler gauge is your friend. Mount coupler on prop side, then move motor closer, start adjustment as you creep closer and closer to coupler, honestly the coupler can not be out more than .004 maybe .004 that is your target anyway.. and in some cases i found i had to accept .04 due to flanges warpage ! Take your time.. Do it ones sweating all the way... so long it's correct.. Or do it many times due to the fact you were in a hurry earlier.
edit: i remembered something, heheh D-d/L = taper in degrees ..... if you have to make make taper spacer.
Oh spin the motor side put a scriber to see war-page if present (like on a lathe) if you have measure meter it will help you...forgot the damn meters name ..lol
easy job that takes time and elbow grease, gets complicated with angles of motor.
if need be practice in the shop, with two flat objects, small electric motor with flange like a old waterpump and motor, or go help a friend that needs his adjusted (new fenner mounted)
Fenners have 2 inner and 2 outer flanges.
Johan
Good work mate.
Take your time, don’t rush and enjoy yourself.
Love the vid 👍
Cheers,
Glenno
Thanks mate. I'm definitely keen to get this up and running as fast as I can but the list of jobs is quite long...
As someone else mentioned. We NEVER used any flex joints at our shaft/trans coupling. That is just another gimmick that can/will wear out and break leaving you stranded. Boats aren't like cars and offshore boats especially so. You build them to the highest reliability you can because your life literally depends on it!. Bolt it up flange to flange with high quality steel bolts and let'er rip. Also watched your waterpump rebuild. #1 Don't use and thread locker on cover plate!!! Those bolts don't see any stress and you want to be able to easily undo them yearly to replace impeller in situ. #2 buy atleast 2 impeller kits for your onboard spares box. You never can tell when you might get stuck on a reef or sand bar or suck up some trash. You can destroy an impeller in no time at all and sometimes (bad weather or strong tide making an inlet) you can't just shut down and make a repair, you have to "limp along" and baby the temp gauge, knowing you have a damaged impeller.
Hi Stu, you need a dipstick that reaches the bottom, both as a backup to your fancy gauge thingy, but more importantly you can put water indicator paste on the bottom of the stick it to see if you have water in either of the tanks. Diesel tanks are fun with water and bacteria growth.
Aligning the shaft with the engine was the hardest part of my engine replacement. I had to use shims as I didn't have the bolts that you do. Fiddling with little metal plates trying to find the right combination, fore and aft, to make it all line up. You're coming along nicely though. Thanks.
It certainly is a tricky part of the process. I'm glad I put the adjustable mounts in to make things a bit easier but it still isn't going to be simple.
@@DangarMarine I've never aligned a motor in a boat, but as a fitter have done plenty of similar couplings. This is a job that takes time to be done right. Rushing this step will most likely lead to problems down the track. If you haven't got a fitter mate to give you a hand/tips, watch a couple of video's if you have the time. You may have to get/borrow a couple of different bits. Not sure if you can fit a dial in there, but even a Mike could help.
Dangar Marine Engine alignment is worse than docking at the ISS and they don't have to deal with gravity! However fancy some of our life has got, some chores still suck. I wish you luck and patience and beer enough to to get there in good spirits!
Been watching you start this project from day one and i gotta say you've made it this far so there's no reason to rush take your time and do it right.
Change the o'rings in the shut down housing, if they are gone it will suck in air from there. Also fit a cable you can easily reach. you never know when you might need to emergency shut the engine down
Hey Stu pull the engine forward with 2 ratchet straps . I did this and it made it easier to get the motor aligned . This is just a suggestion mate
Yep, have been thinking of something very similar when it comes to dragging it forward. Ratchet straps have a surprising amount of strength.
I've just noticed a pro about living on an island, you don't need to lock up ya tools/shed. I live in Shitsville and it's unwise to leave your tools even locked up in your shed. I have to bring everything out to the shed and back into the house when finished. A pain in the arse
Slow and steady wins the race mate.
Good plan for alignment, the only thing I would caution you on is to compensate for the height difference because of the angle when you slide the engine forward.
Doing it right takes time, it will be worth the wait in the end. Do your thing, we'll be with you each step of the way!
Thanks for the video Stu - and no rush for start-up 👍
You do a fine job of being Mr. Instructor 👍
Loving this series! Just wanted to thank you for sharing this labour of love with us!
Respect from the UK!
Good video and thanks for sharing the journey. Do things in the way that seems best to you.
It's great to see that throughout the build you have interacted with the the viewers and fans, and never been afraid to ask for opinions and advice. I dare say the end result will be better for it, as all of us who have worked on bigger boats know, as small mistake can cost thousands. Love the build. Soon you will be a true central coast mariner.
I've definitely got some great advice from viewers. I've always thought of this channel as a conversation with other people who have an interest in boats: some just starting out, some with 30 years of experience to share. The great thing is that when those people teach me everyone else also gets to hear so the knowledge just keeps spreading.
Awesome Stu as always,liked how you managed to get the pigeons featured. I saw how you did that.
Don't stress about starting the engine Stu. You'll have it running sooner rather than later :) keep up the good work!
DipSticks don't lie.
I Don't know about Steel hulls, we never used flex couplings On my wood boats, we lined the prop shaft and engine flanges up to .005" and they ran fine.
I think that's More of a vibration and comfort thing, all the solid steel engine Mounts was also replaced with flexible ones so i think that's part of it.
Looking forward every week for the next video. This is why free to air tv is dead. You make great tv. Really enjoy watching your show and learning about the two stroke diesel
Thanks Rob!
Hi Stu. If you have machined a steel, aluminium disk the same or similar diameter to the flanges and same thickness as the flex coupling then you can move the motor forward and align the motor. Once this is done you can remove the spacer block and insert the flex coupling. If you want a hand turning up the spacer I'm happy to assist, you can probably get the material from Hornsby scrap if you don't have something suitable. John
re: a flexible fuel level dipstick - A mate of mine uses a length of the plastic yellow tongue from the flooring material used in house building. It is about a centimetre wide, and he files lines into it to mark various levels. I works extremely well and has lasted for many years.
I bought a pair of those bluetooth headphones myself back in September. Love them. They auto connect 1st time every time and do what they are meant to.
It's always nice to find something that works as it should!
Man, I wish I wasn’t a world away or I’d jump in and help you. I’ve done this several times, just not with metal stringers, which I would have preferred anyway. The temporary alignment coupler shows your on the right track. The check list is exactly what I do as well. It seems ominous but things get crossed off before you know it.
It doesn't matter how long it takes as long it's done right 👍🏻
Your Boat, your project , your money, your time and YOUR decisions....Keep positive mate.
Thanks mate. I try, but it isn't always easy...
@@DangarMarine Stick with it Stu we all go through a learning process no matter what ...and your vids have helped me a lot...I am 70 and still learning. Just hope my tinny moored in the Gut is still riding out this storm.
Eddie is a spring chicken on the inside! I always love his guest star appearances. So what if there are some minor things in the way, you have a running motor in a dry boat! That seemed years away only months ago. I hope to see Eddie on some boating adventures some time again. What a lucky dog.
WOW, still lots to do. GOOD - that means LOTS of really informative and bloody interesting videos!
on the ship i work on we use pressure sensors to measure fuel, the more fuel the higher preasuere. then you could calibrate a guage to read against it :)
Let the adults finish the conversation . Ziiiiiiing LOL SAVAGE 😂
Harsh but fair I thought. ;)
@@DangarMarine Quite polite actually, if someone wants to see an engine start up for the first time in situ, they can go do their own project.
Well said Stu!
@@DangarMarine kinder than I'd have been I'll say. You take your time Stu. I dont see any of these armchair engineers soloing their way through a Boat restoration, taking time money and effort in not only doing the job right, but SHOWING your work.
Steady on lad. ^.-.^
G’day Stu your doing alright at this I can appreciate that there is a lot to do your essentially building a new boat and with it comes it’s problems and it takes a while to get everything to together I remember my boat doing it up and the frustration involved with it and mine was a glass boat. Its steady as you go it’s got to be right before you head out into the open sea. I still love your chooks Stu it would be great to see them beg anyway mate your doing alright kind regards John
Thanks mate. I often wonder if it wouldn't have been easier to build something from scratch!
I think we forget on this side of the screen that the last 20% takes 80% of the time. Good luck with your shortening list! Best from Canada!
me too enjoying a Great Northern as I watch your escapades. well done team.
At your own pace Cap'n. Don't need no mouthy landlubbers telling ye 'ow to run ya boat... I reckon between what you're teaching/showing us, the daggy dad jokes and the chicken updates we're all getting more than enough Stu. Great video mate, cheers for now... ;-}
A rule of thumb is 1/1000 of an inch per inch of flange diameter. I know the Polyflex couplers well take .020 of an inch misalignment if the shaft centers are true to one another.
Not being able to move the shaft fore and aft is making the job of alignment a real pain in the butt.
My suggestion is move the engine where you need it. Use a machinists rule to line up the edges of the separated companion flanges. I a small Machinist Square modified to do this task. If you had a 123 block to use as a square off the transmission pilot to aline the counterbore of the prop flange. A 123 block would be about 25mm by 50mm by 75mm.
Then use a telescoping bore gauge to measure your flange alignment up and down and side to side by measuring the gauge with a micrometer to find the differences. It's a good idea to error to needing to lift the shaft slightly to get the pilots into alignment. Generally it's half the clearance in the stuffing box bore.
I hope this gives you some ideas. The boats I worked on we had a little more room than you are working with most of the time.
One sailboat I serviced regularly the only access to the back of the engine and trans was over the top of the engine, I cursed the designer every time I worked on that engine and transmission.
Blessings Kriss
This stage of a project can feel like forever, no getting around it if you’re doing things properly. I am going to enjoy seeing some footage of it making way with the Detroit humming. Maybe you can get a bunny suit like bus grease monkey and create a new intro! Nice tee shirts by the way:)
I think a bunny suit could be good solution to this problem. Both shirts in one video! ;)
Hi Stu, I have a similar space issue between the gearbox and stern seal, I just managed to get a drip less Tides seal fitted, I opted to stay solid mounted and not have the flexible coupling as it was so tight for space and the shaft runs very true with zero vibration.