How To Sharpen A Scandi Grind | Knife Tips From The Amazon
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- čas přidán 15. 11. 2023
- Ben and Dan from Dogwood Custom Knives join us from the jungles of Colombia to give a rundown on how to maintain and sharpen your Scandi ground knife. You don't need a ton of tools to do the job, and a piece of wood is even used here to showcase how simple sharpening CAN be.
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10:10 - 10:15 I respect the humility in his comment. A few seconds prior, the host is building him up; which is the polite thing to do, and appears to be true.
Yet when he gives unnamed credit to all that helped him; that’s when I decided to look him up for more content.
Thanks for the tips guys. Great video Ben.
Thank you so much!
Thanks guys--I'd have to go for the chalice.
Hard to argue with a good chalice
That is because you are a man of great experience, knowledge, and education Ben is lucky to have a man such as yourself as a support.
Outstanding
Pretty cool bushcraft chalice!
This is great information. Thanks!
Hey, thanks for watching David!
Excellent video
Hey Knafs guy, I love your Amazon headquarters😂
Keep up the awesome and informative videos, I for one can say I've learned quite a bit in the handful of content I've caught from you, count me subscribed! Been a burrito believer, this channel can only help your brand to expand!
Love this, thank you 👍
🙌
i think with a scandi the steel choice is an importand thing, these fine sandvik or uddelholm steels, or carbon tool steels like 80crv2 are top notch for this type of grind beacause of their great apex stability. also i think the kind of trees you find in scandinavia leeds towards the scandi grind. a real scandi is not that great for hardwoods because of the reasons you mentioned.
in an area with harder woods i prefer a convex grind, don´t like the idear of ruining my scandi with a micro bevel.
Hey Ben I haven’t seen one video or anything about that Knafs 400/600 diamond stone you have on your website. You should do one showing a regular whetstone and why you need a diamond stone for these “super steels”
Good looking knife 🥷
The mosquito buzzing the mic was wigging me out 😂. I imagine the jungle is beyond buggy
Awesome video and great advice. I like the spoon.
7:20 dont drag your un debbured edge through wood, you rippe of the Burr and it takes good metal with it, or it rolls your burr over to one side, learn to weaken the burr ir debbur on the stone and then go direct to leather or soft wood with compound on it so you clean of the last bit of metal, dont strip mindless or like crazy like many people teach in Videos Just do carreful a few strokes.
Bevels are also called phases. Primary phase, secondary phase, and such.
Would love to see the Lulu come out in a different steel for those of us who don't necessarily need the strength of Magnacut steel.
Then you will love what we are working on for this year! Keep an eye out
ScandiVex is a better way to go imho especially if you have a high scandi grind. Unfortunately, many scandi blades are too small or shallow for how thick the blade is. In that situation, ya have to go the secondary bevel route, which takes so much slicing ability and bite away. If ya convex that type of blade, it becomes too blunt and pretty much a pain to use .
Usually, I will use a loaded strop with hard leather and give my scandi a convex edge.
I personally can't stand a secondary esp on a scandi that's above 3mm thick , such as the Garberg. They dive into the wood but have more resistance, making the knife difficult to control. They are just too dang thick for the geometry of the edge.
This is why Condor and Tops knives use the scandiVex edge on their knives. I love my Tops Brakimo scandiVex ,nice and tall grind but not too thin ...its near perfect.
Honestly, I prefer to keep a small zero grind scandi for just using as secondary whittle knife. A true scandi for detailed carving is the best, especially for lessening wrist and forearm fatigue.
Great video Ben! Definitely looking forward to adding the Lulu to my collection
The spoon and the chalice... A spoon has some reach advantage and can hold some liquid, while maybe not as much liquid as the chalice, it's a tool that can do more than the chalice alone. So the spoon can work like a chalice, but it can also work like a spoon and as an extended reaching device, but the chalice can only be a chalice and not work like a spoon... so I think the spoon would take priority as being more useful than the chalice, while the chalice still makes a good cup but not a good spoon. c:
Whoah, it's an American Scandi with a second phase.
Exactly what Mora did, lel.
As far as I know a "true" Scandi grind has one phase and a convex grind.
I love my Mora Pro C though.
Is it now not a compound grind?
Yes, it is a compound grind, but that is a very vague term meaning having 2 or more grinds, so a saber grind, a Kephart grind, and a full-height convex with a flat micro bevel are all compound grins. To try and be more accurately describing it as something like a scandi with a micro bevel is a more complete description. Back in the Blade forum days, I called it a Dogwood wood Scandi because that is how I did my scandies, and wanted to be clear it was not a "true" scandal
All those misquotes buzzing in front of the camera…now THAT is field research lol.
Aaahh so Dan tries to reimagine the term "Secondary bevel"? Jesus christ.......... People have been doing this for ages. You didn't invent anything Dan.. Geez.. Why don't you talk to a Scandinavian knifemaker Dude? Why do American knifemakers talk to American, and not Scandinavian knifemakers about this?.. Ben, You've made the most basic type of knife. You thinned out the ricasso, that's the part that needs most handle material. Handle is to short too. Ben, stop taking advice on "Scandinavian knives" from Americans, who just wanted to jump on the "bushcraft" wagon and makes up terms to makes themselves feel more special.. A dogwood Scandi. Just stop
First tip to sharpen a skandi grind knife: you make it a normal knife
Happy Malaria
Nobody calls a scandi grind a full flat grind, a scandi without a micro bevel is just a scandi grind or some say zero grind scandi. A full flat grind is a primary bevel that goes from the spine to the edge and has a secondary bevel.
When someone recommends you put a secondary bevel on your Scandi grind knife (a 'micro bevel' what ever that is) then stop listening to them. They have NO IDEA what they're talking about and you'll ruin your knife if you follow their advice. DO NOT make a secondary bevel on your Scandi grind knife! NEVER!
you wont roll a mora
Most Moras also have a microbevel. From their site: Looking at knives such as a Companion or Mora 2000 with the bare eye, we cannot see the micro bevel line as the polishing rounded off all the lines. If you look at our knives with a 90-degree sharp angle for fire starters, the micro bevel line appears all the more clearly.
Mhhh, ok maybe MagnaCut isn't the right steel for a Scandi then. I've seen people batoning bolts in half with this steel and flat grind at 62 HRC. So I am a bit surprised to hear about rolling and microchips as Scandi grind. Scandi with micro-V-bevel or Scandivex can be done, but this is not how the blade purists would sharpen their scandi knives! The titel is absolutely missleading!
A scandi grind don't have a microbevel.. you have ruined the edge.
Screw a chalice and a spoon, just make a bowl!