How to adjust a new pressure regulator
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- Links to parts I used at bottom of Description:
After replacing the cut-off switch in my compressor with a brand new one, it wasn't quite tuned... So this is how to set up your pressure regulator, setting it's limit and a handy way of finding leaks...
My compressor says, "Psssssst All the cool kids are doing it."
Also note, the moisture valve had never been cracked open on the compressor since purchase from the previous owner, little did I know it was full of what could be described as... liquid poo...
Remember folks:
1. Take care of your compressor and it'll not poo.. on you!
2. Change the oil when it gets dark and/or regularly
3. Purge the moisture at regular intervals
4. Always open your parachute when the cars look like ants.. and not the other way round!!
Here's the switch I used for 220V in Ireland:
amzn.to/2yOIvNV
If you dont already have gauges:
amzn.to/2tItdo1
Use this regulator and oiler combination to replace the one on my CNC miller. After 1 month still works as intended. Excellent value for the money.
Probably higher quality than what came on the compressor. Mine still works to this day! :)
20 years ago I got a new 150 psi compressor , I turned it down to 125 psi shut off . it has never run out of air , reset the turn on to 80 psi from 100 , most tools run on 30 to 90 psi , when you buy a new compressor turn down not one air tool needs max psi of 150 or 200 psii and it will last longer . Less run time . I worked in a few shops with 100 gallon tanks and they put out 120 psi for air tools 10 guys working on the line with impact drivers .
That means your compressor is a good one and not taxed hard. The less you require of the piston, the longer it lasts. I also think most tools were overbuilt - even if by accident. I had an angle grinder that I bought for $45 back in 2001 and got a decade out of it! (I would have got more time, but it was stolen! doh! haha)
@@bustersgarage I use my air 2 or 3 times a week I do a lot of Car truck tractor repair , I looking to upgrade to a 30 gallon from a 15 gallon tank . all the New tanks put out 165 to 200 PSI I will turn it down to 125 psi or change out the pressure switch 14.95 on ebay factory set 95 to 125 psi . you still have the 30 gallons just saves on the piston and motor on the run time.
Isn't your statement totally dependent on what tools you're actually running?
@@lil-link only tool that use up the air in a tank is a grinder or drill . but they still only use 60 psi .
Mint balls
HAHA, I forgot about those!
I need to organize my videos and playlists better, here's part two that some people were asking about: czcams.com/video/ukI3nrbMsRc/video.html
Fixing the leaks found.
Loving it!!
I suck as a presenter and youtuber, but try to provide good info or entertainment. haha
Excellent information.
Thetrucky69 Thank you very much! HOPE TO have some new stuff soon too.
Busters Garage. No worries mate. That would be great. Cheers 👍
Is the check valve and relief valve built in the whole pressurestat?
Edit:
I actually meant unloader valve, not relief valve. 😣
On this model, it is. It is the brass bit that has the pull ring @1:36.
Depending on which compressor you buy, it is sometimes located on the tank. If you replace your pressure regulator unit, the unit itself doesn't always have one included, but has a port for one.
I didn't need a new one since my old one worked well. OH and be sure to install it PRE-regulator, inline from the tank itself. IF compressor's shut-off solenoid sticks, especially if not in use or if it's damaged, it could damage the compressor or worse, cause a tank rupture. Always good to give it a test if the compressor is new to you or has been sitting for a while.
I want to ask about the non regulated output, was 1/2 inch thread allready there or you had to tap it? I'm thinking about adding it to my compressor. I have some sort of blind plugs on both sides but right now I'm far from home. Thanks
Oh, the quick release screwed directly into the tank? From the factory, there was a hole there with a plug in it. I believe it serves at least one of two purposes. At the factory, it would allow the welder (human or robot) do have the tank back-purged if it's required during assembly, but also a way to inspect/quickly draw a vacuum OR pressurize & vent the tank under testing and inspection phases. It could also serve as a port for the end user to inspect/clean the tank if needed.
My advice is that IF you install an unregulated connector, do it with caution and understand that I use it to connect to my garage's system that has an inline regulator and dryer, but allows a much higher volume, but with the same PSI setting for things like my impact gun, air chisel and mini sand blast cabinet. I plan on upgrading my compressor, but it is how I make due. And yes, it works, but requires a LOT of patience to keep from overheating my compressor that isn't rated for the constant use. haha.
@@bustersgarage Thanks, I want to use it with my airtools, as you said, I want better airflow but I will keep what you said in mind!
Danger to manifold...lol
How you change it ? I have a hard time to replace it!
I took notes on where things went on disassembly :) it should go in the way the old one came out. just be safe :)
It's a few fittings and a few wires. just be safe and take pictures
how i can reduce oil exciting with normal compressor and get clean air for dental unit
If your compressor is healthy and it's just the normal level of oil coming through, a water/oil separator filter in-line should help a lot. These are needed for painting cars, clean environments, etc. Oil separators are usually a single chamber with a paper/cotton filter and the water separators are usually just a gravity catch chamber.
get an oil less compressor they are cheap then add a water/oil separator to get ride of water generated from compressing the air.
Then add a micron filter in the end just incase something managed to get through the airfiilter or was produced along the way (rust in tank, metal shaving)
is it possible to adjust the cut in? my compressor cuts out at 8 bar and in at 6 id prefer it to cut in at 5 and out at 8 is this possible ?
That's a very good question.
The base model home/hobby compressors do not have an adjustable start "cut in" pressure that I know of. It is made that way to keep the duty cycle lower for the motor rating.
On high-end commercial compressors, the off cycle can be shortened, so it kicks on sooner. But on the more budget models, it's likely fixed at a 10 or 20 psi lower than the shut-off.
What you CAN do, to improve the supply, instead of installing a very expensive regulator on a general compressor.... (as I did for my smaller airbrushing compressor) is add a secondary tank as a ballast and then a very specifically dialed-in pressure regulator.
1. This will reduce fluctuations in flow
2. It shortened the on-cycle length ratio (as a cool compressor works faster)
3. Reduced the number of times it kicks on, so saving compressor life.
a trick : watch series on instaflixxer. Been using it for watching loads of movies these days.
@Zev Josiah Yup, have been using InstaFlixxer for years myself :D
Now I'm nauseous from you flailing the camera around constantly.
Yeah, I'll bet! It is pre-tripod and hard to pan smoothly with just a phone in your hand. @1:20, I pop the phone in the little clamp to keep things steady for the time lapse and the explanation.
Capacitor for such compressor
If you mean the reservoir for the air; that was 50L and comes with the 3HP & 4HP models. If you mean the electrical capacitor that is part of the electrical relay; I do not know, as it is built-in.