TUNDRA BRAKE UPGRADE For TOYOTA 4Runner (96-02) TBU
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
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*PARTS AND HELPUL TOOLS*
Please see pinned comment for links.
3rd Gen 4runners are notorious for developing a front end shake while braking which will also cause the steering wheel to shimmy back and forth. What causes this shimmy while braking? Some people think the rotors are actually warping due to the heat. Some people believe it’s due to uneven brake pad deposits on the rotor causing the braking problem. From my own research, I tend to believe the uneven brake pad deposits on the rotors are the problem. This can happen after some hard braking, like coming down a steep grade, and then you come to a stop. With the rotors really hot, the brake pads can leave extra deposits onto the rotor. With the uneven deposits on the rotor, now the rotor is sort of “warped” because the braking surface is uneven. To correct this, you either buy new rotors or get your rotors resurfaced at a machine shop or auto shop. Will the TBU stop this situation from happening? No, it can still happen but I think it will be less likely because you now have bigger rotors that dissipates more heat and won’t get as hot under hard braking situations.
So what’s the real advantage to the TBU?
Answer: Increased Stopping Power.
Many in the 3rd Gen 4runner world believe the caliper and rotor setup for these trucks is under-powered especially if you carry lots of gear or tow.
The upgrade to the Tundra caliper and rotor gives you two distinct upgrades:
#1 - The rotor is much thicker which will allow it to dissipate much more heat and reduce brake fade. This will be most evident if you regularly drive down steep grades or tow. Even though you are utilizing engine braking by using lower gears, you still have to use the brakes, and on a long descent, your brakes are going to heat up. If they get hot enough, they will start to fade.
#2 - The caliper is larger with a higher fluid capacity and accepts a larger brake pad so you get increased stopping power.
*Tundra Caliper Choices*
13WL - 231mm Caliper
13WE - 199mm Caliper
*Benefits of Each*
The 231mm benefit over the 199mm is you have a larger fluid capacity and you have a larger brake pad for increased stopping power.
The 199mm benefit over the 231mm is it will fit with all the stock 16” rims, not just some of them. The 199mm setup is still superior to the stock setup because the caliper is a little bigger than stock and it still uses the same thicker rotor for greater heat dissipation.
*Important Considerations*
Wheel clearance with the 231mm option. Only certain stock wheels will fit over the caliper. If you don’t want to buy different wheels, you are faced with either grinding down the inside of the rim to make it fit or grinding down the caliper. Neither of those choices sound great to me. If you are wondering which stock 16” wheels fit over the 231mm calipers, I’ll provide a link to an excellent write-up for this modification that covers the wheels that will work without any grinding and basically everything you would ever want to know about this repair. I’ll put the link here and in the video description.
www.toyota-4run...
To address the wheel fitment issue, some people chose to run spacers. I wouldn’t recommend this route and I’ll provide a link to a video done by “Engineering Explained” that goes into great detail about the issues surrounding running wheel spacers. Here’s the link and I’ll also put this link in the video description as well:
• Wheel Spacers & Adapte...
Do you have a spare tire that will fit over the 231mm caliper? If not, you’ll be forced to change 2 tires if you get a front tire flat. You’ll have to take one of the rear tires off and move it to the front, and then put the spare on the rear.
**We did this on a 2002 3rd Gen 4runner. If you have a 2001 or 2002, you need to have the ignition key in the "on" position to power up the brake booster when bleeding the brakes.
*After You're Done with the Job*
Bedding in the brakes - There’s a procedure some people chose to do to sort of “break-in” the rotors. I’m not going to describe this procedure because you can read up on it in that write-up I provided a link to. Is this a necessary step with new brakes? I don’t think so but you can do your own research and determine if it’s the right course for you.
When searching for parts for this job, use the following Tundra years and model:
For 199mm Calipers use a 2001 Toyota Tundra 4x4 V-8
For 231mm Calipers use a 2005 Toyota Tundra 4x4 V-8
Many people who do this job compromise in the caliper department. They will buy Toyota rotors, pads and shim kit but opt to save money and buy aftermarket calipers from an auto parts store like Napa.
*Torque Specs*
Wheel Lug Nuts - 85 ft-lbf
Caliper Bolts - 90 ft-lbf
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
**This mod can also be done on a 1st Gen Tacoma (1995-2004). The only difference is you need to change the front brake lines for the mod to work. This kit from LCE Performance is nice way to go: www.lceperformance.com/Stainless-Brake-Line-Kit-Tacom-To-Tundra-Upgrade-p/1055114.htm
**PARTS**
*BRAKE CALIPERS* - If you want Toyota OEM calipers, we suggest you get some used ones whether you find them for sale online from somewhere like Ebay or Craigslist or you go to a auto wreckers like PickNPUll and you grab a used set of a wrecked Tundra or Sequoia. Brand new OEM Calipers are very expensive so we don't recommend going that route.
*ROTORS* - It's ok to go aftermarket here but we do prefer OEM.. Toyota Rotors #43512-0C011 amzn.to/2rw1Dgt
*PADS* - It's also ok to go aftermarket here too but we prefer OEM. Toyota Pads (for 231mm calipers only) #04465-35290 amzn.to/33sAs3a
*SHIM KIT* - with OEM pads, we recommend using the anti-squeal shim kit. Toyota Shim Kit #04945-35120 amzn.to/33rr3ZC
*DOT 3 BRAKE FLUID* amzn.to/33ZK8TF
*BRAKE CLEANER* amzn.to/2KuJ6Yw
*BLACK SPRAY PAINT* - amzn.to/2Doq5CY
*BRAKE CALIPER GREASE* amzn.to/2OMFPoG
**HELPFUL TOOLS**
*If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.*
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythetoolman?isPublicView=true
*6 TON JACK STANDS* amzn.to/2MM91w6
*HEAVY DUTY RUBBER WHEEL CHOCKS* amzn.to/2mttRWp
*DEWALT 1/2" DRIVE IMPACT GUN* amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*DEWALT BATTERIES* amzn.to/2urcx59
*DEWALT BATTERY CHARGER* amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*SMALL SIZE MAGNETIC PARTS TRAY* (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) amzn.to/2m6kQ5y
*FLEX HEAD FLARE NUT WRENCH SET* amzn.to/32GoIdy
*SILICONE PLUG KIT* amzn.to/34Joap7
*VACUUM CAP KIT* - option to silicone plug. A 7/32” vacuum cap fits nicely over the flared brake tubing end. amzn.to/31hXY2G
*1/2” DRIVE BREAKER BAR* - 18” Long amzn.to/2O7HpCo
*1/2" DRIVE FLEX HEAD GEARWRENCH RATCHET* amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*1/2” DRIVE 6-POINT STANDARD METRIC SOCKET SET* amzn.to/35dKQwW
*PLASTIC MALLET* amzn.to/2CCOqVP
*RED PAINT PEN* amzn.to/34ngQid
*DREMEL TOOL KIT* amzn.to/2DcQHqG
*STRAIGHT NOSE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS* amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*CDI 1/2" DRIVE FOOT POUND TORQUE WRENCH* amzn.to/2UPhyjK
*CDI 3/8" DRIVE FOOT POUND TORQUE WRENCH* amzn.to/2U2vUA4
*OFFSET BOXEND WRENCH SET* - Great for turning brake bleeders. The offset gets the wrench away from the tire. amzn.to/2sei01t
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
If upgrading stainless steel brake lines do you use 3rd gen lines or tundra lines
@@chasing_bends Get lines meant for your 3rd Gen 4runner.
Hi question 13WL calipers or 13WE
Will work with same size off rotors correct? As long I have the tundra rotors I can use both sizes of calipers right
@@jonathanornelas9238 Yes, both calipers use the same size Tundra rotors.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks buddy
I friggin love this channel
WITH Timmy Well Thanks! Sean and I would have been happy with "like" but Love is even better. Happy Wrenching and welcome to our channel.
Thanks a Ton Tim!
I did the upgrade to my 2002 4Runner Limited. I've had trouble with shimmy for a long time, probably replaced the rotors 2 or 3 times. I live in Colorado and the few trips I made coming down the canyons seemed to cause the issue very soon after replacing. I was very careful on the later ones to be sure I wasn't riding the brakes. I'd downshift, click the over drive, still the wobble returned. It was unsafe sometimes too, coming down Rabbit Ears Pass near Steamboat the whole car was jumping all over the place and no I wasn't racing down. I seriously thought I might have to ditch!
In desperation I searched and found a few leads that took me to this video. Its the best out there for sure. I can't thank Tim and his crew enough. (Post a link and I'll paypal you a pizza and beer or something! I'm no mechanic, but this video got me over the brink to try doing it.)
I used stock Toyota pads, rotors and shims, I used Checker or someone like that's calipers. I went for the bigger WL calipers. The hardest part of the whole job is trimming the dust shield and getting the brake line seated again. The difference is AMAZING and if you're on the fence at all, just do it. It gave me confidence in my rig again.
On whether its dust build up or warped rotors, I have my old rotors and been meaning to drop them off at a brakes plus to see if they can see a warp.
Thanks again Tim!
You're welcome Chuck. Glad this upgrade gave you more confidence driving your rig down mountain passes. I'm also stoked to hear it was our video that gave you the confidence to tackle this job.
I've been to Colorado many times mountain biking and maybe I'll get out to your area of Colorado one day. I've ridden in Grand Junction, Crested Butte, Gunnison, Durango, Vail, Boulder, Winter Park, Telluride and Salida.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success story with this upgrade. Happy Wrenching Chuck!
I completed this upgrade two years ago on my 04 Tacoma. What a game changer. 33's on 17s stops so much better. Thank you for your channel and service Timmy!!!!
You're welcome Robin. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Did you use the 199 or 231?
thank you for this video!! Did this last weekend and the hardest part was bleeding the brakes.
You're welcome. Glad the job went well for you.
Thank you Timmy and Sean! Greetings from Ontario. I've done so many repairs and upgrades to my 3rd gen that I wouldn't even try if it weren't for your channel! Just did this upgrade today. You guys have saved me a boatload of money and I have learned lots! Stay safe and wrench on dudes!
Hey there my Canadian Brother, we're stoked to hear that our videos have inspired you to take on jobs that you wouldn't have otherwise done without our tutorials to follow. This is great to hear. Doing your own wrenching does save you a ton of money on expensive labor costs at shops as you have found out. Thanks for taking the time to share this with us. We appreciate it! Happy Wrenching Ehh!
THANK Y'ALL so much, did this swap in my son's 3rd gen runner. Brakes are from Orielly auto parts ( spent too much money there...613.72) stops on a dime. Also did a complete brake fluid flush.
Cannot wait to replace the calipers and rotors on my 3rd gen runner...Thanks again.
You're welcome Mike. I hope your son was involved with the job to learn along with you. Turning wrenches is becoming a lost art.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes he helped....he bought the parts....and did the passenger side while I did the drivers side....I was faster....lol
@@michaelhenderson9910 That's awesome. Great to hear he's interested in auto mechanics.
I'm glad that you cover everything in detail. Your even transparent about possible mishaps, or mistakes with certain senarios on these procedures! Thank you Tim, and Happy Holidays! 👍
We're glad you like the video and appreciate us sharing the mishaps and mistakes that we come across when wrenching on these rigs. You're very welcome and Happy Holidays back at ya.
Hello again Tim. I did this job yesterday, and it went quite smoothly. One thing that made me whip a wrench at the ground was trying to get the flair nuts into the new calipers. The 1st one took me a good 15 minutes of subtle bends and tweaks. The second took me an hour, I swear to god. I ended up using a pair of pliers to put positive pressure on the face of the nut, without crimping down on the brake line. Then, I just kept adjusting the angle and spinning the nut until it grabbed... On the topic of "bed-in", I agree with you. I'm not sure if it is necessary or not. I think in general, avoiding hard braking and imprinting when the setup is new is critical. I did the bed-in procedure and I did notice much better "grab" after. I bet it would have gotten there in no time anyways, but I figured that I might as well get it where it should be quickly, to avoid the risk of imprinting... Thanks again to you and Shawn for the great work.
Michael Spangenberg Hey Mike, I agree about getting the brake lines reconnected to the new calipers. It's definitely a test of patience getting the threads started. Thanks for letting us know the bedding in procedure worked out really well. Happy Wrenching!
Dude. You've got awesome video's. Most every detail articulated & very well. 👍
Thanks! It Sean's and my goal to give the most accurate and clear information in our videos so people have the best chance at being successful with a repair or modification. Thanks for taking the time to give us feedback.
Thank you for taking the time to include the written detailed information regarding the fitment of the parts and more detailed information.
No problem Enrique. You're very welcome.
This is awesome, tim. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Noah.
Great video. Only recommendation is that when you install new (dry) calipers is to 'gravity bleed' them first, prior to the full bleeding sequence. This will get the majority of air out of the calipers and make bleeding easier and more successful.
Thanks for the tip Ralph.
I did the upgrade on my 99 4runner more than a year ago. I used the Power stop Z36 drilled and slotted rotors with matching carbon ceramic brake pads for a 2004 tundra 231mm. After the upgrade, the only downside is that when you step on the brakes, the pedal goes lower than before. it was all good then after almost 20,000 miles, my rig now shakes with along with the steering wheel shimmy while braking when I'm exiting the freeway.
I bought EBC plain rotors with their green stuff brake pads for a 2006 tundra to replace my current setup. The Power stop rotors didn't cut it at all. Nice work in this by the way.
Hey James, I missed this comment. That's good to know about the Power Stop rotors. Thanks for taking the time to share this information.
Mkay
Seriously underrated channel. Fantastic work! 👍🏻
Thanks Mike. We appreciate it. We have been on a slow and steady growth. We do in a big way separate ourselves from other DIY automotive repair channels though. Pretty much nobody offers the detail we do in our videos. Absolute beginners with the interest in learning and willingness to buy tools can follow our videos step by step and get the job done. Other CZcamsrs leave out important detail that leaves the viewer lost on how to proceed. I'm surprised as well that our channel hasn't attracted more subscribers. A whole lot of people use our videos every month, around 200k+ views per month, but getting them to want to subscribe is another story. Anyway, we'll keep doing what we're doing.
@@TimmyTheToolman You do deserve more subscribers.. I have watched quite a few videos out there on 4Runners and while there are many good ones, none compare in my opinion to the amount of details you guys offer, which is crucial for 1st timers like me on this topic. Keep up the great work, it will pay off. Thanks again. 👍🏻
@@Mike_44 Thanks Mike. We'll keep on keeping on.
I did this upgrade and never had any rotor warping after, the stock 4runner kept warping
Thanks for this information. I've heard the same thing from my buddy Sean and is one of significant benefits of this upgrade.
Really?
My first gen brakes keep getting screwed. I'm a conservative braker too.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey Tim. I just saw a video where a guy upgraded his rear brake cylinder from a 15/16, to a 1" made for a Tundra. I had never heard of this, and he was clear not to do it without upgrading the Front's first, for safety reasons. This seems like overkill to me, but maybe has some applications. Maybe for offroading applications, simpler than a swap to rear disks, and you keep the parking brake... Any thoughts on this? czcams.com/video/1t7Lxdsp7k8/video.html
@@ponyboyack00 This is the first I've heard of this. I would never bother with a rear disk conversion because the benefits are minimal for a fair amount of work. With the TBU, your brake pedal ends up traveling a bit further because you put on bigger calipers that require more brake fluid but use the same master cylinder. If you do what this guy suggests, I would expect you'd get further brake pedal travel because now your asking for even more fluid flow from the same OEM master cylinder. Since the rear brakes only do around 25% of your braking anyway, I sort of doubt you're even going to notice a difference by doing what this guy suggests in the video you linked. But, maybe I'm wrong.
³@@francoisl7663
Another great video Tim , thanks much.
Suggestion for onlookers.
Remove break line clip before detaching hardline from caliper.
Doing so provides play n line eliminating need for hardline bend when detaching from caliper.
You will find easier access to caliper bolts & much easier hardline reconnection.
Glad you like the video and thanks for sharing the tip about the brake line.
Mm-k.
This is an awesome guide! A couple of side notes:
1. A lot of brake shops (from what I've experienced, anyway) won't resurface rotors anymore.
2. Resurfacing your rotors ends up making things worse, in a way, because you now have even less mass to absorb the heat, and so they'll warp again even faster. That's what I found with my 2000 SR5.
3. I ended up going with some upgraded (slotted) rotors and higher quality pads, and those have been good for the last 5-7 years. I would love to do this upgrade, but got scared off because I didn't want to have to buy a new set of rims to get everything to fit.
Hey David, you're right that not as many shops resurface rotors anymore but I don't agree that resurfacing them makes things worse. When you resurface, you aren't raking off that much materail. If the rotors were grooved really bad, they'd have to be trashed anyway. The amount of material they remove isn't going to dramatically affect the heat dissipation. Also, rotors don't warp from the heat. What ends up happening is you get uneven brake pad deposits on the rotor or uneven wear that cause the brake shuddering. The amount of heat it would take to actually make a rotor bend is massive. So, don't be reluctant to get rotors resurfaced. I resurfaced the ones on my rig that I did the TBU on and everything is great.
You can put drilled and slotted, with rear drum brakes?
Tim - I believe that a lot of the brake wobble people experience can be attributed to rotor warp-age due to over torqued lug nuts. Shops notoriously over torque the wheels. My daughter bought a 2000 4R last year which had brand new brakes and vented rotors with less than 1000 miles on them. There was wobble which seemed to worsen. When we went to install new rotors/ brakes we found the lug nuts tightened to 130 ft-lbs . 12k miles later there is no wobble at all.
Thanks for all your videos. I always look to yours first.
Hey Hans, thanks for sharing this. I have heard improperly torqued lug nuts could cause this and it's good to have some more confirmation that it can indeed be the reason for the front end wobble.
We're glad you're liking the videos. Happy Wrenching!
You responded to every question on this video. Wow that takes tremendous effort. Subbed.
Thanks for noticing Tyler. We try our best to answer every question and acknowledge every comment. Our channel isn't so big that we can't provide this level of service to our subscribers and viewers. Some comments do squeak by us, but we do get back to most people in a short amount of time. Welcome to our channel. Happy Wrenching!
I fixed my problem with the steering wheel shake by doing a brake pad bedding in process. I used to take it easy with new brake pads until it was broken in. Now after installing the new brake pads and new rotors. I will speed up to about 50-55 mph and then brake hard down to about 25 mph and immediately after reaching the 25 mph I will accelerate back up to 50-55 mph again. Do this cycle five times. The next five cycles will consist of speeding up to 50-55 mph but brake down moderately hard down to 25. After the last one, drive until the pads cool down. Don't stop until they are cooled down. I found out about this bedding process when I bought one set of Hawk brake pads. You will need a road that allows you to do this. I tried another brand of brake pads and they had a bedding in process that is similar to what the Hawk brand recommended. I haven't experienced any steering shimmy for over 200k miles, which included two brake pad and rotor replacement. I usually get about 80 or 90k miles with a new set of pads. Google "brake pad bedding in" and you will find instructions for this. The brake pads will generate a lot of smoke during the bedding in process. The process I used is recommended for race cars. I have no complaints about the results I achieved.
Thanks for sharing. Just like you, many others have swore by the bedding in process. I haven't personally tried it out yet. On my 2000, I just replaced the rotors and pads with some premium ones from Napa. I sometimes feel a little shimmy but my braking has been great for several years and around 70k miles. Knowing how to use engine braking and not riding the brakes down steep grades is part of the equation. There's a high percentage of people that don't know they can use lower gears with their automatic transmission to slow them down while descending a grade. They just ride the brakes until they are smoking hot and imprint brake pad material when they have to come to a full stop. The key is to not overheat your brake rotors in the first place. The Tundra Brake Upgrade gives you a larger rotor that will dissipate more heat and I think that's one of the reasons why this mod is so popular because people with less than perfect driving skills are able to avoid overheating their brakes. But, you can still overheat the Tundra rotors if you're a really shitty driver and just ride the brakes down a long mountain descent.
Timmy you’re the freaking man for making this video! Definitely gives me more confidence know what to do now. I imagine you continue pumping the brakes until you don’t see anymore air pockets in the line?
Glad you appreciate the video Terry. Good to know our video is giving you the confidence to do this job. Check out our brake bleeding video for more into on how to bleed brakes. czcams.com/video/rnyK3V-OGn4/video.html
Keep up the good work! The added “mmkay” is fantastic and all the extra goodies! Great channel, it’s nice to see people keeping these older Toyota’s alive and well!
Thanks Loyd. Glad you like our channel and we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Keeping these rigs well-maintained and performing sic mods on them has been lots of fun so we're going to keep on keeping on. Happy Wrenching!
Fantastic instructional video but a few notes on this video: The video cuts where the rotor was still rubbing and Timmy says "it could be the angle of the axle" they never show how he fixes the free rotation. And what blew my mind was the pad springs. I've done many brake jobs in my day, I've never seen the pad springs that only go on the top of the caliper and not both, top/bottom.
It was the droop of the wheel causing the CV axle to bind. If we would havre jacked up under the lower control arm just a little bit, the axle wouldn't have binded anymore.
Yes, it is weird there's only 1 anti-rattle spring per caliper. I think it's smart to buy an extra spring so you can have them top and bottom.
@@TimmyTheToolman Have you done a 3rd gen rear disc brake conversion? It is the one disappointment of the gen 3 4Runners. I'd like to see how you do it, as your instructions are clear and to the point.
Tundra brake upgrade from hell is in progress on my 04 Tacoma. After tackling a 4WD conversion a brake job feels less wild and I was ambitious enough to just do the upgrade one afternoon. I went the OEM Toyota route + NAPA calipers. Since I can't reuse the old lines on a Tacoma I got some brake lines from Wheeler's Off-Road.
The passenger side went alright. The stock rubber brake line was a bit hard to loosen from the hard lines even with a higher end flare nut wrench but nothing terrible. I move to the driver side and things haven't gone smoothly. I literally couldn't get the fitting to come off and the flare nut wrench was just bending the whole line. Eventually it came off and I could feel the brake line fitting just tearing up as the soft line unscrewed. The hard line fitting threads were destroyed. Once I realized this I went to unscrew the other end of this short hard line which attaches to a frame mounted L shaped fitting. This end of this line also required hulk strength and came out cross threaded. I chased this cross threading issue up one more line before it stopped. No idea why but 3 sections of my driver side brake lines were extremely over-torqued from the factory.
Just something to watch out for if you're a Tacoma guy. A couple users over on Tacoma World ran into this too but none had to buy 3 sections of brake line like I did. Would've gone just as smooth as this video if I had a 4Runner.
Thanks for sharing this Andrew. That sucks the brake lines are so hard to break free on some of the Tacomas.
If the tube tahts goes into the bottle below the fluid line, you dont have to close the bleed screw every time. Just pump the brakes until there in no bubbles. Sometime If you step on the brakes with the bleeder closed, and tap with a hammer it will get the remainder of the air out. Its a one man job when done right.
Ok, thanks for sharing.
Y’all’s trucks are so clean. Wish I was in CA
Well, California does have nice weather but there's plenty of down sides like the cost of living.
This channel really has helped me progress with my 4Runner. Thank you guys so much for all of your videos!
That's great to hear Seth. You're very welcome.
I’m an actual Toyota tech. Rotors do warp. I’ve turned hundreds of them maybe thousands on brake lathes and measured runout. Sometimes it’s bad enough you can see it. I’ve also put rotors on machine flat surfaces and measured the warping with feeler gauges. Deposits don’t cause pulsation. If there is any, it’s wiped off the next time they get hot when the brakes are applied. Good video, but rotors def warp.
I appreciate your comment, but there's quite a lot of information out there that doesn't support your warping claim. Uneven wear is one. Uneven brake pad material transfer is another.
The stopping power must be a world of a difference, especially with the bigger calipers!
It's definitely better.
Every Toyota truck I’ve ever owned had miserable brakes. I just changed out all my rotors, calipers, and pads with OEM parts and did a complete fluid flush. I’ll be lucky if I get a year out of it before the wobble starts again. Been through it enough times to know its inevitable. Mine is a 2012 Tundra Crewmax Platinum. Good luck
Do you use engine braking Nick? I had gnarly brake wobble when I bought my 2000 4runner over 8 years ago. I got some premium rotors from Napa and some ceramic pads and my brakes have been great ever since. The key is too not overheat the brakes.
Just got a 3rd gen 4runner. First priority, rear axle bearings and seals. I mean there's friggin' gear oil in the rear brakes! And while I'm at it, the Tundra brake upgrade.
Good luck with both jobs.
Been studying this video a few times and I think I got it. Went with OEM rotors, pads and shim kit. As far as calipers, I went with the Napa 231mm ones. Just ordered the gearwrench 1/2 flex head ratchet that was on sale at $38 using your link! Thanks Timmy for a good informative video. Will be knocking this out soon!
Good luck with the job Josh. Hope it goes smooth for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman did this last weekend it install went smoothly! My rear driver side bleeder would not bleed… turns out there was corrosion in the bleeder bc the rubber caps that cover the bleeders were missing. Used the vacuum plugs you linked in the description to cover all 4 bleeders. Great sic mod 🤘🏽
@@0341stroker Great job getting this sic mod done Josh. Thanks for getting back to us to share your success story. Happy Wrenching!
I had the same shimmy problem on my 02 Tacoma 4WD V6 and I found on a forum somewhere that the shimmy was actually caused by the rear drums. So, I replaced the drum pads and the shimmy when away. I know, it doesn’t make sense, but it worked.
Well, I could see how rear shoes could cause a shimmy but so could front rotors. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for this awesome video. Was thinking of doing this on my 1999 Hilux Surf and feel I can do this on my own thanks to this video. Great job! Thanks
Hey Kevin, great to hear our video is giving you the confidence to do this modification on your own. You're welcome and good luck with the job.
Another excellent video Tim! This was the 1st mod I did to my 00 T4R and never looked back! When I bought the truck I had soft brake pedal and after bleeding the brakes post upgrade I still do, but then again I never drained the rear brake lines... It's too cold to do it now so will have to wait till spring... A side note, one of my calipers (I think the left one) the brake line also had to be tightened extra turn or so for it to stop leaking completely; hindsight, maybe I should have put a thin layer of plumber's tape on the threads but it's been about 9 months since my upgrade and it hasn't leaked a drop so I'm calling that good. Keep up the good work!!!
The passenger side brake connection to the caliper ended up leaking and I was confident I had the connection tightened enough not to leak. That certainly messed us up for a while during the bleeding process until one of the guys at the house saw it dripping down. I gave it another quarter turn and the leaking stopped.
Great job man 👍
Just wanted to see some ‘before and after’ brakes test. That would have been much interactive.
Thanks Ahmed. You make a good point about a brake test. So far, all I've heard is subjective feedback from people but nothing objective. Maybe some hard braking at different speeds and measuring the stopping distance. But, where do you conduct a test like that in a busy city. Maybe a big commercial parking lot after hours would be an option.
@@TimmyTheToolman burnishing brakes is absolutely necessary if you want any Valid Test comparisons.
**70-50mph @ medium(8ftsec) decel...back to 70 for a mile.
150 snubs.... Brakepads will achieve 250-280° f. And stay there for entire burnish.
This is GM fmvss STD brake burnish prep for testing.
*Larger trucks get 500 snubs!!!!!
Yes, it takes more than 2 days....😳
Note: leaf blower to clean road test surface!!
@@karter9908 Sounds labor intensive.
Hi Timmy. I just bought a 2002 Toyota 4 runner Sr5 and i love it. I want to upgrade the brakes. I don't want to change the rims and tires. I have 265/70/16 so i'm thinking to go with the 199mm 13WE . Your videos are very helpful. You're the best. Thank you so much.
You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to let us know you like what we're doing. Sean and I appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks alot for your videos. U explain things very well and have helped me make some repairs and upgrades i couldnt of done with out your vids. Very helpful very grateful!! Thanks man!
Misael thanks for stopping by in the comments and leaving us feedback! The reason we keep making these videos are for comments like these!
I had shimmy on my 05 Tundra was caused by cheap import rotors. Raybestos made in Canada is a solid choice.
Thanks for the suggestion. We have had great success with Toyota OEM parts for our brakes. I have all OEM brake parts (pads, rotors, calipers) on my 3 4runners.
- Sean
Timmy-
I just followed your video and did this sick mod. It eliminated my front end shimmy when slowing down. Used all OEM tundra parts, found them cheapest at Camelback.
Great to hear the mod worked out for you. Good job getting it done.
Just did this to my 3rd gen. Found a set of nearly new brakes on a junkyard tundra for $100. Rebuilt the calipers for good measure.
You scored. That was a good find.
Best Toyota channel on here. Thx as always.
Thanks Corey. We appreciate the nice compliment.
Good video! Really nice step by step examples, links and parts # info! I had the front brake wobble on my 3rd Gen but I decided to try new stock rotors first to see if that fixed it and so far they are working great. I don't tow often so that helps. One thing I noticed is that my rear brakes were not self adjusting properly and were way out of adjustment. Now with everything in perfect adjustment and the back brakes working better it obviously has way more stopping power. I think the out of adjustment rear brakes were putting too much load on the front brakes and contributed to the wobble problem.
What was causing the rear brakes to not self-adjust and how did you fix it.
It seemed that they were just gummed up with brake dust and old grease. I took the rear brakes completely apart and cleaned everything perfectly then re-greased the adjusters with SuperLube Teflon Grease. Also sparingly greased all pivot/wear points in the brakes. They now self adjust properly each time the parking/emergency brake is used.
Cool. I want to video a rear brake job at some point in the near future.
How did you check the rear brake adjustments?
to adjust the rears easiest on these trucks after a fresh brake job, roll backwards in neutral and yank up and down on the parking brake. hold the button so you can keep yanking it up and down without it locking the handle on you. repeat for a few passes and you will start to feel the parking brake begin to grab harder and harder until it basically starts stopping the truck when you yank it. there is a night and day difference in brake performance once you go drive it. i like this way because it forces the rear brake drums to adjust themselves as much as they can naturally, as opposed to turning adjusters manually and potentially going too far...as always ... BE AWARE OF YOUR SURROUNDINGS BEFORE DOING THIS.
Awesome video man! Now I’m less stressed to do it on my rig lol. I was kinda skeptical but feel much better now after watching your video thanks Timmy!!!
Thanks Luis and you're welcome. What you're going to find as you turn more wrenches is auto mechanics really isn't that hard. If you have the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience, you can do most of your own automotive work. There are still specialty jobs that are better left to the professionals like an engine rebuild, but for the most part, you can do your own work and be quite successful at it. Good luck with the TBU and Happy Wrenching!
Loving the new microphone! Another great video!
Thanks! Yeah we had some comments about the audio quality and finally did something about it. I unfortunately forgot to install the mic on a recent video that will come out sometime next month. Oh well, shit happens.
Another quality TTT video production.
Thanks Brandon. Glad you like it.
You can also upgrade the rear wheel cylinder to accommodate the front brakes.
Black Lavender this is true. Some people opt to upgrade to a 1” bore typically from a t100 master cylinder.
@@TimmyTheToolman Have you done a video covering this upgrade? BTW I LOVE YOUR CHANNEL! Thank you so much for taking the time to pass on your knowledge. It has helped me, and others I'm sure, tremendously.
madmiles we have not done a video showing how to upgrade to the 1” bore master cylinder. We aren’t sure how much that would help people since most people wouldn’t want to tackle that project. But we are open to the idea!
@@TimmyTheToolman that would be great! I'm about to do this and would like to upgrade to the t100 cylinder but havent found much online about it
Timmy The Toolman figured it would go with a drum change it’s just a wheel cylinder part #18E263 acdelco think you miss read my comment.
Thanks for the help amazing video. I’m from Florida and over here me and my friends love your videos
You're very welcome Abraham. Great to hear you and your friends appreciate the videos Sean and I are making. Thanks for the comment and Happy Wrenching!
I never had brake problems on my stock 1997 4runner but this is a good upgrade.
Luis M When I bought my 2000 used, I found that the brakes shuddered. I just bought replacement premium rotors from Napa and some ceramic pads and the shuddering went away. I do think the Tundra Brake Upgrade helps prevent the uneven deposit of brake pad material because the larger rotors dissipate more heat and thus won't get as hot as OEM size rotors. Uneven deposits happen when you get the rotors super hot and then come to a stop holding the pads against the superheated rotor surface. The pads will leave an imprint of a little extra material in that spot. With enough uneven deposits on the rotor, you end up with brake shuddering. People miskakingly think the rotor is actually warping but this is a common misconception.
If you know how to use engine braking, instead of riding your brakes down a long mountain road descent, you'll be less likely to overheat your brakes.
Timmy The Toolman Thanks Timmy!
I'm late but I have done this on all of my 3rd gens from Sequoias I found in the junk yards. Saves lots of money. Good video!!!
P.s. the akebono pads seem to be the best for me!
Sounds like you're collecting 3rd Gens. Join the crowd.
@@TimmyTheToolman I swear man in my area they are becoming extinct!! I sent you my highest mileage one via IG 😊. I'll make a video soon
Always so informative and detailed. Much love.
We're glad you like it. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!
I dig this video...super informative from start to finish. Great job...im doin mine soon and this was just what I needed to get my mind right
Glad you found this video informative. Good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!
Drilled rotors are much more prone to failure under heavy use, however.
If you do regular and frequent track days, a slotted rotor may yield slight benefits.
Otherwise, just go with solid rotors.
One of the biggest misinfo out there.
You forgot the cool factor Mr. BuzzSaw. Slotted rotors are extra cool when you're cruising the mall parking lot. Style points are very important for those that Mall Crawl.
Timmy The Toolman hahah very true!
For a brake line plug, I used the rubber cover from the end of some Closet-maid shelving! 😎
Nice Macgyvering. Whatever works I reckon. Thanks for the comment.
Just did the big brakes and 4 new bilstiens today. Tundra brakes have my bfgs barking like dogs.
Good job!
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks Timmy. Video gave me the extra confidence I needed. Brake bleeding always gave me the creeps. Not anymore
@@nolibs45 Good to hear our video gave you the confidence you needed. Happy Wrenching!
Awesome video, can't wait to do this to my 4runner
Hey Ryan, we're glad you like the video. You'll like this upgrade.
I’ll make an addition (with 800+ comments I can’t search to see if anyone already has) also upgrade the rear wheel cylinders for the tundra. They are slightly larger bore and my 3rd Gen stopping power was noticeably improved. All of the rest of the components are the same. Essentially giving you front AND rear tundra brakes.
Yes, this has been mentioned before but thanks for chiming in. Do you happen to have the part number for those Tundra wheel cylinders?
@@TimmyTheToolman 47550-35210 if my notes are accurate - 2006 Tundra 4.7 4WD.
@@cg6089 Cool, thanks for sharing this with us.
I lost the count of the commercials but thanks a lot for the video!
We agree the commercials can be annoying but it's how any CZcamsr makes money. I guess we could just be totally generous guys and donate dozens and sometimes hundreds of hours of our time every month for zero compensation but I think we deserve to make some money for our efforts. The motor replacement series we recently uploaded was a tremendous amount of work. We spent 4 very full days, wrenching and filming to document the job. After that, it was dozens of hours of editing.
In addition to shooting videos, we spend quite a bit of time everyday keeping up with comments and questions on our channel. I don't know if you noticed, but we try to acknowledge every comment and answer every question that comes in. This takes some time.
Think about the rate of return for the viewer. Yes, they have to endure some annoying ads while watching one of our videos. But, that's a pretty small price to pay for the information we are sharing that's allowing them to do a job themselves saving them hundreds and sometimes thousands of dollars on expensive labor costs at dealerships and independent shops. We don't charge people to access our videos. Anyone across the globe with an internet connection can watch our videos for free.
The reason why I spent this much time replying to you is to give you a CZcamsr's perspective. We're not some hot girls in bikinis shaking our asses and doing very little effort to attract subscribers and make tons of money because sex sells. We've worked very hard for the subscribers we have attracted to our channel and we work extremely hard for the nominal amount of money we earn.
But, I'm glad you appreciate the video and you're very welcome.
Timmy! Another Great video! Thank you very much.
Clint Andren Glad you think so Clint. You're welcome.
Your videos are great. Thank you, Sir!
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Great video, I would recommend you use blue thread lock instead of anti-seize on the caliper mounting bolts for the obvious safety reasons.
Cool Man A/C & Heating I guess it depends on what part of the country you're in. I think people in the salt belts put antiseize on everything. You do make a valid point but I think if the bolts are torqued to spec, they aren't going anywhere. Glad you like the video.
Timmy The Toolman i believe they only need threadlocker if the old bolts had threadlocker previously on it or if the manufacturers recommend it..i have seen bolts torqued to spec come loose eventually and they required threadlocker
Leanna Trout That's a good point.
Excellent video, thank you for posting it!
Thanks Mark. You're very welcome.
I always call it da nipple too lol. Most Everyone says, its a zerk fitting
You would fit in well with our group Juan. You have to have fun while wrenching.
Nothing related to your forerunner break issues but on my 2007 double cab tundra, I installed an extra set of brake springs on the bottom pad so that way when these springs which are meant to keep the brake pad off of the rotor, will have even outward pressure to push those pads off of the rotors on the top and now the bottom of the pads.
Hey Joe, that's a good idea. Seems like they should come with 2 springs per side to give the pads equal recoil.
Yes, but once I saw this similar spring system on Nissans, I decided to order an additional brake calipers hardware set from Carlson called the Q series. Teflon coated on the portion where the brake pads slide and rubberized on the back side to reduce shudder/noise. That doesn't apply to the 4Runner/Tacoma/Tundra since they typically have dual pistons/pins. I always recommend jacking up any vehicle once a year for a complete brake check, clean and lubricate all contact points. More frequent in stop/go traffic. I really like that rotor/brake combination. Any long term results/follow-up?
Sure, I'll keep in touch with Jay and have him keep me updated on how the brakes are working.
Timmy The Toolman: I've used Toyota TRD pads (Kevlar/ceramic based) in place of regular ceramic pads on cars. I've had exceptional braking performance, less fade. Have you tried Toyotas TRD pads on any 4 Runners/Tacomas/Tundras? They should be semi-metallic since that's what OE calls for? Thanks for any information...
Hey Joe, no I haven't tried Toyota TRD pads on any Toyota trucks. I haven't done much brake work on these rigs other than my truck and this recent one for the Tundra Brake Upgrade. You don't have to use semi-metallic. There are benefits to each type of pad. If you want the best stopping performance, semi-metallic is supposedly the best but harder on the rotors. I've been using Napa ceramic pads on my truck for a couple years and they work great. Now I'm wondering if I should have went with semi-metallic, but like I said, my truck has good braking power so I'm not regretting my decision to use ceramic.
Thank you for putting in all this work and filming it to help guys like myself do it ourselves. Have you done a 3rd gen rear disc brake conversion? I can't seem to find a video from you on this.
You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know you appreciate our efforts. We have not done a rear disc brake conversion yet. But, I'm pretty sure there's a write-up or some type of information regarding it on a Toyota forum somewhere.
Hey Tim great videos as always! I’m about to do this upgrade to my 01 tacoma, are the new front brake lines from ice performance necessary? And if so will they work with the 13WL calipers?
Thanks for the ideas 👍👍👍👍
You're welcome Thomas.
The NAPA caliper is the way to go (if you can't find OEM at a junkyard that is or just don't want to, yes NAPA will take the 4Runners back in for core refund), its nicely coated, after 4 years, mine looks brand new still. Also no warping at all like the stock ones. One of the best upgrades for the 3rd gens.
Thanks for your suggestion Ian.
brake rotors warping is sort of a myth its not that they warp its that they just become uneven and unlevel causing the break pads to sort of jump
Yeah, I agree. It is a myth. I talk about this in the video description.
I was going to do this as I tow a 2000lb trailer thru Eisenhower tunnel but after realizing that taking Overdrive off it saves my brakes and slows me down. never had any brake issues either but I have the 02 4runner with the larger capicity resevoir if that even matters.
Yes, taking overdrive off is the basically the first downshift you can do to slow yourself down and next is shifting into second as long as you're not going too fast. If you really want to crawl down a hill, you can even use 1st. Many people who have automatic transmissions don't understand they can downshift them just like a manual transmission. It's called "Engine Braking" and it works really well.
Is this TBU necessary, especially if you know how to utilize engine braking? No, absolutely not. Is it a nice upgrade for your rig? Sure, I think so. If haven't done it to my 3rd Gen but my buddy Sean swears by it saying we would get the "Death Shake" when braking. He got his brakes done because of the Death Shake and shortly after he had the same problem because he regularly drives steep grades. Since doing the TBU, he hasn't had any braking issues. I replaced the rotors and pads on my rig shortly after I bought it because I was also getting the shaking while braking. I still get a little shaking here and there but it's much better than it was before. Will I do this modification one day on my rig? Maybe, if I can get a good deal on a set of rims because my rims won't fit over the 231mm calipers.
Thanks for the comment!
Goo job but anti seize for the brake carrier is a no no, you should use a medium strength lock tight to keep bolts from getting loose.
Well, I don't know about that. People in the rust belt of the country might disagree with you. Now, we're in sunny California, but I highly doubt those caliper bolts are going to come loose especially since they were torqued to spec. I put some blue loctite on my lower balljoint bolts because people had reported having them come loose and fall out. I don't think I've ever had any fastener fall off of a vehicle I've owned and worked on.
Great videos as always. I did this mod years ago, and just yesterday had another thought. Have you EVER heard of anyone using the old front calipers for a rear drum conversion... and if so who may make the brackets so I don’t have to fab them... LOL.
There's a guy on T4R.org that's got a disk brake conversion for the rear for 3rd Gen 4runners but it uses Ford Mustang calipers.
I’ve seen his setup. But I’ve never heard of anyone just rolling the fronts to the rear... to keep it all in the Toyota family.
@@cg6089 That would be cool.
So, clearly the reason why this was never done… the fronts have no parking brake. If that’s not an issue for you it would be fine, but that’s the reason for the mustang (or similar).
Hey Tim, on the 4runner forum they tell you that you can grind a small section of the larger caliper to make it fit the stock wheels. I used the smaller one on mine but probably would do the bigger ones if I did it again.
Hey John, I have heard this as well. But, is it safe to do this? I don't know. I wonder how much they are shaving off.
Hey @@TimmyTheToolman I see they reference you on the forum so I do not think they would mind you referencing them.
www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/94923-hard-find-specs-info-measurements-231mm-13wl-tundra-calipers-rotors.html
I did not find the thread that I used to do my swap but all was needed was to trim the dust shield and grind a small nub off of the caliper. It would not even get close to removing enough metal that you would have to worry about the fluid busting though. Apparently a service bulletin came out that phased out the 199mm calipers. BTW I painted mine gold to look cool, except that you can barely see them. A little bit of wasted time!
@@JohnSmith-se8pf We provide a link to that T4R thread in the video description as well. That's good to know the caliper only requires a slight shaving to fit.
Hey Guys I HAVE A QUESTION.. i have a 2004 Tacoma 4x4 Trd with TRD 16-In. Off-Road Beadlock-Style Wheels part # PTR18-35090 , does anyone by chance know if these wheels will clear this 231mm 13WL tundra brake caliper upgrade????
We don't know but maybe somebody else does.
About to do this on my 2002 Tacoma. Got new brake likes and a Callahan CCK11988 kit
Good luck with the Sic Mod!
awesome awesome video man thank you so much the detail is insane
Thanks Mikey. Great to hear you enjoy the detail this video offers. We appreciate your comment. Happy Wrenching!
Personal experience with this mod.2
My 3rd Gen workhorse stops which such grace and deliberation after this mod, that is not even funny. I can feel that I am using less foot to pedal power. I wish I would done it years ago. No trade-off. A couple of caveats:
1. S13WE is the same calip as S13WM, which is what my 98 Run had. (measures less than 199mm at calip brake, grip, bite area)
2. The calip here in question (my experience) is a S13WG (probably an upgrade for WE's on Tundras of certain VIN'? (01 Toy Truck Tun 2WD 3.4L MFI DOHC 6c, 01 Toy Truck Tund 2WD 4.7L MFI DOHC 8c, 01 Toy Truck Tund 4WD 3.4L MFI DOHC 6c, 01 Toy Truck Tund 4WD 4.7L MFI DOHC 8c, 02 Toy Truck Tund 2WD 3.4L MFI DOHC 6c.
3. The outboard, r/s caliper metal casting (rectangular cast, looking at installed calip) has to be grinded (mine @.025")
4. It is indeed that the brake dust, back plate has to be modified IOT fit the S13WG calip. on to installation lugs. Ill suggest no more than 15mm.
5. The only place that I could figure out was the 199mm comes from, is from measuring calip at the brake grip, bite area with the rotor disc and pads installed, in which mines measured @ 200mm.
I agree with you. This upgrade is pretty nice. I have the TBU on my 98 3rd Gen and OEM brakes on my 2000. With all the extra weight I'm carrying around with the mods I've done to my 98, the Tundra brakes help a lot. Thanks for sharing all the information.
Hey Tim....excellent video...thank you so much. Had a question for you though- Wouldn't greasing up the pins cause road dirt and brake dust to stick to them? Wouldn't it be better to leave them dry?
That's a logical thought, but grease is recommended in all caliper and drum brake systems for the moving parts and both develop lots of dirt or debris, mainly from the brake dust. Leaving them dry would cause more drag of the brake pads on the pins leading to a higher chance the pads will stick and not fully relax away from the rotors after pressure is taken off the brake pedal.
Tim,
I am preparing to do the 13WL upgrade and have two questions so far:
1. Have you had any ABS issues with the 13WL upgrade? (There is some scuttlebutt on forums about this so considering 13WE instead)
2. I will upgrade the soft lines to stainless steel and the vendor asked if I wanted to bypass the caliper side hard line with a longer flexible line. Would you do this?
Once again, thank you so much for your videos and advice!
@jhomrig1 My ABS kicks in at some inopportune times, usually when I hit a bump or depression at the same time that I'm braking. I don't know if that was caused by the upgrade, though.
I've seen guys bypass the hard line. I think it's a nice modification.
@TimmyTheToolman thank you for answering, I always appreciate your advice.
It seemed like some guys were having the brakes lock up, especially in snow/ice, instead of ABS kicking in. Another described having only one side lock up.
@@jhomrig1 Yeah, I don't know anything about that because I rarely drive in the snow or icy conditions.
If you remove the Bolt that holds the brake hose in place it would be easier to line up the brake line to the caliper
Somebody mentioned this trick after we shot the video. I've tried it and it does work pretty good. Thanks for the tip.
Yellow stuff would've been better then the green stuff pads..... Would be nice to see an after video of this and thoughts on the new upgrade thanks great video guys 👍🏼
Oh you should have a disclaimer to take some Dramamine before watch his video! Oh man ........
Just do a Google search for the Tundra Brake Upgrade and you'll find links to all kinds of forum threads for this modification. It is discussed in great detail on T4R.org and you'll be able to read tons of opinions on what people think about their brake performance after the job. The one common result is people say their brake pedal feels a little softer but the braking performance is enhanced. I think because the Tundra calipers hold more fluid volume is why the brake pedal feels softer.
Thanks for taking the time to comment and Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman thanks 👍🏼
You're welcome Big Daddy!
I’ve had ebc before and apparently they don’t warranty the discs if you use brake clean fyi. They don’t recommend it it was in the instructions but who reads those 😅😅
Can't use brake clean on brake rotors. That's a new one. What are you suppose to clean them with? Windex glass cleaner?
outstanding video of DIY. I think the Runner and T100 has the same cablier. but I wonder if I'll fit the T100 also. who knoes you can also add a manual locking hub to it too. 👍👍👍👍
Don't know about the T100, but I bet it would work. As long as the caliper bolt holes line up, it would work. You'd still have the same issues with the mod - having to trim the dust shield to allow the caliper to fit and then whether or not your current wheels will fit over the larger calipers. And, maybe the location where the metal brake line connects to the caliper could be a little different so you'd either have to try to manipulate the brake line to work or buy an aftermarket flexible braided line.
Manual locking hubs? Hmmm. No clue on that one. Don't know what kind of modification that would require to make that work.
Timmy The Toolman I'm sure it will. After all the T100 is the first gen of the tundra. Now I just have to find out if I need the thicker mm or not. thanks buddy
Good stuff, thank you for the video. Is there any reason not to simply cut off the backing plate entirely, rather than the careful trimming you did to it?
Well Tom, manufacturers put them in for a reason. Supposedly brake dust is corrosive and the shield blocks the dust from ending up getting on other components under your rig. It also helps keep debris out of your disk brakes but disk brakes are suppose to be self-cleaning so who know how important of a feature that is.
I think the right call is to trim the brake dust shields rather than eliminating them altogether.
Yup yup yup the tbu is the way to go
What about Gen 4 4RNRs? Same basic concept? ABS? Your stuff is gold!
I don't know if a Tundra or Sequoia caliper will bolt up to the knuckle of a 4th Gen.
Hey Timmy and Sean great job with all your videos and I thank you for them.
Regarding your big brake upgrade.
I just had to rebuild my 20 year old brake master cylinder for my 01 Taco 4x4 because a little bit of the edge of the closest rubber seal to the booster tuned backwards during 95 degree weather. I could have just turned it the right way but I used a genuine Toyota rebuild kit and I became a pro at rebuilding my master cylinder.
Today, I found that I could have upgraded from my 13/16" master cylinder to a 1" master cylinder.
Youre a pro at researching these things and this would be an upgrade to all of us making our rigs heavier.
Please advise!
Glad you like the videos Sean and I are making. In regards to doing the research for a master cylinder upgrade, I can't guarantee that will ever happen. But, if someone comes to us with this job or one of us decides we'd like to do this mod, then maybe it will happen. Thanks for the comment. Happy Wrenching!
Did you have to mess with the connection at calipers?
Great video as always. Just wondering if you and Sean can recommend a some brake lines if I were to do this brake upgrade.
Wheelers Offroad makes some good brake lines. wheelersoffroad.com/shopbyvehicle/4runner/96-02-4runner/performance-brake-lines.html
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi tim. Sorry I forgot to ask....do I purchase tundra brake lines or 4runner brake lines? Or all they all standard connections?
Hey Timmy. do you recall what cv's the owner is using? they look upgraded.I/m from Aus by the way.. my application will be to a toyota prado 90 series but the 3rd gen 4runner shares a lot of similar parts. Also i always put my low brake pad indicator on the leading edge of a rotor. so in this case the other way around to which you had. on some vehicles where the spring sits on one side only this prevents the sequel you hear when braking in reverse due to sticky pistons.. thats why the spring is there. to return the brake pads away from the rotor on the leading edge.
Love what you do mate. you've taught me a lot. Thank you
Hey Mike, I sent a text to Jay and I'll let you know what he says when he gets back to me. We're glad you like our channel and are learning a lot from our videos. Hearing this always brings a smile to our faces.
Great video!!! Excellent job!!!
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Glad you like our video.
Especially with all that added weight with the wheels, tires, bumpers etc. it takes more to stop.
Great video. Finding your channel has helped me tremendously. New to the Tacoma world and I love doing work myself. Anyone know, Would this upgrade work for a 2009 Tacoma? It’s 17’ rims so i’m assuming the 231 would work just fine. I live in the mountains of Washington and My truck shakes like crazy on these downhill roads.
Thanks John. Don't know if this would work for a newer Tacoma. You'd have to find larger calipers that will bolt to the steering knuckles and I don't know if the Tundra calipers will bolt up.
This video was pretty good. One might say it was Okay. Yea it was okay okay okay. Okay
That’s mmmkay to you good sir
This is great, thank you!!
You're very welcome!
Thank you for this helpful video! Im about to order oem rotors,pads & shims, and get calipers from napa. One quick question i had was; do you reuse the 17mm caliper bolts off of the 4runner calipers for the tundra calipers?
Yes, you reuse the 17mm bolts. You're very welcome and good luck with the job.
Hey Timmy and Sean you guys should do a video where you overhaul older tundra Brakes with the refurbished kit that they make. Thx so much for this video. So if I have 1.5 spacers I can get run 231mm calipers with stock “16 rims?
Not 100% sure on whether the spacers will do the trick. It might depend on which wheels you have. There's a guy with a channel called Speedy's Garage that did a rebuild of Tundra Calipers. It's pretty good.
Solid presentation!
Glad you like it. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Timmy The Toolman it was least I could do. Have to give where credit where it is due. This is no different to how I would do this project in my own garage. Keep up the good content!