Inner & Outer Tie Rod Replacement
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- čas přidán 10. 10. 2018
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*PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we show you how to replace the inner and outer tie rods on your 3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma. The techniques and tips we share in this video would also relate to many other vehicle makes and models.
*PARTS*
(NOTE - This is a parts list for a 3rd Gen 4runner. The front end on a 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma are very similar but there are some differences in the parts so make sure you look up and order the correct parts for your Tacoma).
*Inner Tie Rods - #45503-39075
ebay.us/O4rDgq
*Passenger Side Outer Tie Rod - #45046-39335
amzn.to/2RW0z0k
*Driver Side Outer Tie Rod - #45047-39215
amzn.to/2RSYN04
*Steering Rack Boots - #45535-35030
amzn.to/34liK2g
*Inner Steering Rack Boot Clamps - #90460-62006
amzn.to/2POHScj
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
*6 Ton Jack Stands - (to safely support the truck while you're working on it)
amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks - (nice chocks that don't slip)
amzn.to/2mttRWp
*Brake Cleaner - (to clean up tie rods before making match-marks)
amzn.to/2KuJ6Yw
*Brite-Mark Medium Tip Paint Marker, Orange - ( to make match-marks on outer tie rods)
amzn.to/2OyTwre
*Gear Wrench Large Metric Wrench Set - (used to break free outer tie rod set nuts)
amzn.to/2TCXLmY
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers - (used to straighten cotter pin)
amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Knipex Diagonal Cutters - (used to lever cotter pin out of outer tie rod castle nut)
amzn.to/300BRRE
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun - (used to remove outer tie rod castle nut)
amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt Batteries
amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger
amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set
amzn.to/3wdRVhq
*OTC 6295 Front End Service Set - (used to break free outer tie rod from knuckle of lower balljoint)
amzn.to/2TFUweC
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet - (used to turn bar screw of tie rod puller)
amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*Right Angle Needle Nose Piers - (used to remove outer steering rack boot clamp)
amzn.to/2VYUro8
*3 Piece Channel Lock Set - (used a channel lock to remove inner steering rack boot clamp)
amzn.to/33Hj4rE
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (used a screwdriver to help remove steering rack boot and un-stake claw washer for inner tie rod) amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*Ball Pein Hammer - (used with brass drift to un-stake claw washer for inner tie rod)
amzn.to/2W5eHV5
*Brass Drift Set - (used wit ball pein hammer to un-stake claw washer for inner tie rod)
amzn.to/2BrXfki
*Bacho 12" Adjustable Wrench - (used to connect to the inner tie rod to break free the tie rod from the steering rack) amzn.to/2TFHMEw
*Bacho 10" Adjustable Wrench - (used to hold the steering rack shaft while using the other Bacho wrench to break free the inner tie rod) amzn.to/2WPnhax
*Lisle Large Inner Tie Rod Tool Kit - (option to using adjustable wrenches)
amzn.to/2GsudEV
*42mm Crowsfoot - (Another optional tool for the inner tie rod removal)
www.ebay.com/itm/392970206950...
*Extra Long 90 Degree Needle Nose Pliers - (used to get new inner steering rack boot clamp locked together) amzn.to/36EfbFY
*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
- (used to torque outer tie rod castle nut)
amzn.to/2U2vUA4
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set - (19mm used with torque wrench)
amzn.to/37iQjVt
*Cotter Pin Set amzn.to/2OoD38K - (used for outer tie rod castle nut)
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
*Another Option for Tools for the Inner Tie Rods*
www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In the video you'll see the old inner tie rod joints move much more freely than the new joints. However, there was no actual play in the joints. We don't feel free movement in the joint is a sign that it's bad. If there was actual play in the ball and socket, that would then be an indicator the joint is bad and needs replacing. Replacement OEM inner tie rods are very expensive so I wouldn't suggest replacing these just for the hell of it.
**Update 10/14/18 - A subscriber reported you can rent the specialty inner tie rod tool set from Auto Zone for free. Just like most automotive stores that rent tools, you leave them a deposit and you get your deposit back when you return the tool.
Hi Timmy,I didn't feel any in or out play on my inner tie rods either,but I change them any ways and guess what..it actually reduced my steering wheel shaking about 90% at 60+ mph. thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Any tips on loosening up the jack nut on the tierod? Went in for an alignment after having to replace the passenger outer tierod because lower ball joint bolt/tie rod wouldn’t come off. So instead had to break free the OTE and LBJ altogether.
Now the tech can’t get the driver side outer tierod jacknut for an alignment because it is seized/frozen or rusted. (Sprayed PB blaster already)
@@RoNBEE1 Get a butane torch and heat up the nut and use more penetrant. I'm not familiar with the term "Jacknut" but I assume you're talking about the lock nut for the outer tie rod. Or, you can tell the alignment tech to throw his purse at it.
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah lock nut lol. The tech was a big dude and it wouldn’t budge. Lol. I’ll try the butane torch approach (they aren’t allowed to use fire)
@@RoNBEE1 Gotcha. Hopefully with a few rounds of heat and penetrant, you'll be able to break it free.
This guy got me through my balljoints today. While I was doing it the tie rod would not let me finish. Thanks Tim you really put out solid advice for us little guys.
You're very welcome.
Praise the Gods for your videos. Thank you for your service to humanity
You're very welcome Nick. Sounds like you like what Sean and I are doing.
Here here! So glad to have found this dude and to be blessed with the same vehicle as most of his videos
Thank you, thank you, thank you for all of your videos. My son bought a 98 SR5 4runner 4x4 several years ago, and we have done a ton of upgrades and repairs using your videos. His younger sister loves his rig and just bought a 2000 Tacoma SR5 4x4 that we drove 10 hours to Billings, MT to get. Right now, in my two car garage and shop, the two rigs are sitting side by side, and without all your videos, we probably wouldn't be doing all of the repairs ourselves. The 4runner is getting a new radiator and a transmission fluid flush. An ECG bushing, two new CV axles and seals. The Tacoma is getting a new E-locker rear axle with all the wiring needed, new leaf springs, Bilstein shocks front and back, a new CV axle, and seals. Sway bar end links, lower ball joints, and the inner and outer tie rods. I have parts for valve cover gaskets and the "aircabinman" kit for the timing belt, etc. that should have the Tacoma good to go for quite a while. Fun stuff for a newly retired guy.
Hey Victor, that's great to hear you're turning wrenches with your son and daughter and using my videos. Thanks for commenting and sharing this with us. I'm close to retirement myself but I'm going to keep making videos. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks a ton man! Your videos have probably saved me hours and hours of headache and $$$. I just went through my entire front end suspension.
You're very welcome Louie. Great to hear our videos are saving you time and money. We appreciate you taking the time to comment to share your success stories with us. Happy Wrenching!
**Update 10/14/18 - A subscriber reported you can rent the specialty inner tie rod tool set from Auto Zone for free. Just like most automotive stores that rent tools, you leave them a deposit and you get your deposit back when you return the tool.
The bat fan?
And O'reilly! Their kit is standard but it includes a 1 and 3/16 (30mm) and a 42mm wrench in it. I''ll be doing this job this weekend. After getting and doing F and R suspension, steering rack bushings, swarbar bushings, I went in for an alignment on to discover these were also shot (should've realized while doing all that other work!)
Another option is a bike headset and bottom bracket tool ($20). Park Tool makes several - some are combo's - I used my 30mm/32mm today on my '05 Sequoia - hadn't busted out an old school headset tool in years but it was the perfect thing! They are pretty much only about 5mm thick - there are others but mine happens to be a Park, Pedro's and others are also fine. HCW-7 Headset Wrench: 30.0mm and 32.0mm www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-HCW-7-Headset-Wrench/dp/B0012Q4EH6/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Park+Tool+HCW-7+Headset+Wrench%3A+30.0mm+and+32.0mm&qid=1598063280&sr=8-1
Yes this is a great option. I just ‘rented’ a slide hammer tool this last weekend. You buy the whole tool $170 for this case and then you use it for up to 45 days and then return it for a full refund. That was at advance auto. I know they sell tie rod tool as well but I’ll be doing next weekend. Thanks for the great video!
@@condor5635 You're welcome.
this is the most comprehensive tutorial on inner tie rod end replacement ive seen so far.
@sleepyduck We'll take that as a compliment. You'll find most of our tutorials are steeped in detail, with the reason being that we want people to be successful. Thanks for the comment. Happy Wrenching.
The brand "Sankei 555" is an OEM manufacturer of Toyota parts. They are made in Japan and super-high quality. They are more economical than OEM parts as well when sold under their in-house name. They are easy to find via Google. I bought a Maddox Inner Tie Rod service tool kit from Harbor Freight Tools for $59.99. It includes the 42mm claw for Toyota Steering Racks like on the 3rd Gen 4Runner.
Thanks for the excellent videos Timmy. I own a 2000 4Runner SR5 with a Manual transmission and Federal emissions (1 Catalytic Converter). It's a unicorn, and I'm keeping it going by watching your videos. I parked it in 2017 because it needed a lot of parts replaced and I couldn't afford to do it. I've always wrenched on my own vehicles, but life happens sometimes.
I've owned it since December 2001 when it had 24K miles on it. It's got 222,400 miles on it now. It's been lifted most of its life. I have Bilstein 5100/Tundra TRD springs on the front, OME 891/60027 on the rear.
Since the beginning of June, 2022 I've replaced:
Rear worn out Downey Off-Road springs with OME 891 - OME 60027 rear shocks are still good
Rear Lower Control Arms with SPC Performance heavy duty rear LCA - Part #25945
Rear sway bar bushings and end links. Energy Suspension bushings
Front CV axles - Trakmotive "Xtended Travel" Part # TO-8043
Front Sway bar bushings and end links - ES bushings
Front Steering Rack bushings - Whiteline
Front Lower Ball Joints - Sankei 555
Front Upper Control Arms - JBA - Thanks for the install video on those!
I just pulled the front lower control arms today and I'm going to install the Whiteline LCA bushings - Thanks again for your video!
I ordered Sankei 555 inner and outer tie rods and will be replacing those as well - Thanks for this video!
You guys do a great job. There is a bigger aftermarket parts industry for these 3rd Gen 4Runners than when I was regularly driving it. I didn't see some stuff that appeared during the 2015-2017 timeframe when I knew it needed some TLC. I'm glad the parts and support are there now.
Thanks for sharing all of that. Glad our videos have helped you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman Liked and Sub'd.
Thank You Timmy ! The whole process was easier with your detail explanation... far away from bla... bla... those details gave me confidence on what I was doing was done in the proper way. Thanks again.
You're welcome and it's great to hear the level of detail we offer in this video gave you confidence to get this job done right. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Tim is the man , since we are stuck home I’ve been doing some maintenance on my Tacoma , you have a video for everything ! followed your steps and replaced my inner and outer tie rods today
Glad our videos are keeping you busy during the Zombie Apocalypse. Don't let any Zombies sink their teeth into you.
wow, this video is much more clear than the other people's videos. excellent work and explanation.
We're glad you think so. Thanks for the compliment. We're all about empowering people to do their own work and that's why we put in the extra time to deliver very detailed videos to our viewers. Happy Wrenching!
Tim, besides being a great mechanic and thinker you’re surely so honest and humble and that is very rare nowadays. I and obviously thousands of other people around the world appreciate what you’re doing for us and for who you are. You’re a great guy and we are lucky to have you. Pls keep it up… Many Tnx from othe other side of the pond!
Thanks for the very nice compliment. I truly appreciate it! I'm very honest with my abilities and I think I have a decent mechanical aptitude. Where I do think I shine is with my willingness to do the necessary research to be successful and then the balls to just go for it. What most don't know about Sean and I, is the videos we make are for the most part us doing the job for the very 1st time. So, we are literally learning and teaching at the same time. I also think I have an above average ability to deliver the subject matter in a clear and organized way so the viewer can follow along without getting lost and thus be successful with the job. Sean possesses all these skills too. He actually has a very sharp mechanical and problem solving mind. Quite often when we hit a stumbling block, Sean comes up with the solution before I do.
Again, thank you so much for the kind words. I thrive on people like yourself who take the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I second this notion 110 per cent
@@efil4kizum Thanks! Sean and I appreciate it!
After watching your video about replacing the lower ball joints i decided to do the same to my 1st gen Tacoma for peace of mind. It went well until I tried to attach the outer tie rods and discovered that they were shot. After watching this video you made me realize that i could replace them myself. Thanks to your hard work on these videos folks like me that are not mechanically inclined have a chance at doing this. I'm guessing i'm saving money but i know that all of those bolts are the correct torque and all of the proper steps have been taken. Keep filming brother.
It’s comment like these Barry Morton, that reaffirms our efforts & makes us stoked to hear you were successful in your DIY service to your truck. We agree that knowing your bolts are properly torqued is an added bonus considering you know it’s getting done right & you’re saving money at the same time.
Thank you for ALL that you and Sean do. I'd be broke paying mechanics for what you guys show how to do.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
thanks for leaving a comment. we are glad that our videos are helping you save money!
Tim you’re the best 4Runner mechanic out there, you explain things well and don’t leave things out of the video. I just bought a 3rd gen cream puff with 98k and I’m replacing front end components just because. Thank you again for the great channel.
@Lostdeltallc Thanks for the nice compliment. When Sean and I started this channel, we agreed we didn't want to confuse or lose people with our instruction. So, that's why we put so much detail into every video. We want people to succeed. Thanks for taking the time to comment, and you're very welcome. Have fun with your rig.
Thank you so much! To anybody reading this, I would highly recommend NOT keeping the castle nut on when using the ball joint separator like Tim has. I kept the castle nut on to stop the tie rod from flying off when separating and the nut hit the ball joint so hard it mangle the threads on both the tie rod and nut. Original ball joints on 280k so there was a ton of pressure. Had to replace both tie rod and castle nut. Hope this helps and thanks again for the video!
You're welcome Mikey. Sorry to hear you mangled your tie rods.
Think I just did the same thing😂
Never reuse old nuts on suspension parts. Same with bolts and cotter pins.
Just took off my tie rod ends inner and outer and found they were severely worn and the right side inner was actually bent about 10 degrees.
Thanks for the video, step by step was spot on. I’m waiting on my kit and a set of rotors and pads. You guys are awesome. Not too bad for a firefighter.
Thanks for the comment, Darrell.
Your & Sean's vids are completely invaluable!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
Excellent! So right to say the important stuff at least twice. Also super that you give us so many options; money is (always) tight.
Thanks for the comment Jack.
I can’t thank you enough fr all your videos. It really helps for beginner DIYer like me. The way you explain the steps and having all the parts information. Thank you so much.
You're very welcome. Glad you appreciate the detail and information we offer in our videos. We gear our videos to the absolute beginner so everyone can be successful using our videos. We sometimes get criticized for the level of detail we offer, but those people are in the severe minority. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for the thorough video I'm getting ready to attempt this job myself on my 93 Chrysler labaron convertible Wish me luck
You're welcome and good luck!
You make the best informational videos, saved me tons of money not taking to mechanic.... keep up the awesome work keeping Toyota’s on the road!!! 👍🏼
Thanks Evan. Great to hear you are saving money using our videos. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it! Happy Wrenching!
Just a note from a lifelong bicycle shop mechanic (nice bike stand btw): Park Tool makes a 30mm headset wrench that is flat enough for those tie rods. Think they're about $20. Beer goes a long way at local bike shops too. 🙂
You know what's funny is I own those wrenches. I just forgot that I have them because who works on old school headsets anymore. I have a few bikes with old school headsets still but I haven't worked on them in ages.
@@TimmyTheToolman Haha, yeah I see less threaded headsets every year it seems. I enjoyed your video though! Helped me a bunch.
@@verissimus45 Good to hear. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I've been working on my own bicycles for 30+ years. I built all my race bicycles and many times laced up my own wheels too. I've got some old cruisers too, the oldest being from 1934, and those are fun to work on too.
@@TimmyTheToolman That's awesome! Hang on to that 1934 for sure! I'm the wheel builder and bike restoration guy at our shop, although these days I don't have too many people asking me to lace wheels. Love working on vehicles too, but bicycles have always been my passion.
@@verissimus45 Yeah, nobody really laces up wheels anymore unless they're old school like you and I. Everyone buys pre-built wheels and carbon is king. I still lace up aluminum rims and it's good enough for me.
very well explained video, keep uploading these kinda videos. youre doing a lot of people hell of a favour.
We're happy to know you appreciate the level of detail and instruction our videos provide. This is what separates us from most DIY Automotive channels. We don't have plans of stopping any time soon. Happy Wrenching!
One of the best videos I have ever watched !
Thanks Mike. We appreciate the great compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Excellent video and very helpful. I've just done this replacement on my Landcruiser in the UK. One thing that always amuses me with these videos however is the ease that you remove the old split pin, mine had 22 years worth of rust so I ended up breaking the old one off flush and shearing the rest off with a spanner as I undid the nut, the thread was FUBAR anyway and I was replacing the trackrod end at the same time. Thanks for the videos though. Tim Falce UK
Glad you found our video helpful. Yeah, I've had one cotter pin do what you said and that was on a guys truck who lives near the coast and it was rusted in there. Happy Wrenching my UK Brother! My last name is Watson by the way. My dad's family came from England.
Timmy, I literally just came across your channel about an hour ago and have learned more from all of your little details and sidemodes than I have from any other source. I recently changed both inner and outer tie rods on my 2018 4runner and really wished I would have come across the above video beforehand. I used the mentioned Lisle 54500 Large Inner Tie Rod Tool but found it somewhat difficult to get a good grip as the tool didn't fit all that well in the tight space given. I was able to use the Lisle tool to loosen the inner tie rods on both sides of the truck without too much effort, I'm supposing because the truck is only 3 years old, but the previous owner had taken the truck off-roading (evident by the 20lbs of mud and silt packed between the skid plates and undercarriage that neither the previous owner or dealer I purchased from cleaned off the truck, until I made them). My reasoning for replacing both inner and outer tie rods is that the steering had always felt somewhat sloppy and since the truck had been off-road, I did not trust that the previous owner did not cause damage to the steering, as he did bang up the front skid plate and the skid plate over the gas tank also has a large dent in it (most likely caused by large boulder rocks) Anyway, I found that the inner tie rods did have some play to them, once I got them off and the outer tie rod boots were both squeezed and seemed to be starting to leak grease.
After replacing both inner and outer tie rods with factory replacements and having the truck aligned, I seem to continue experiencing a slight noise (similar to metal tapping metal) when turning the steering wheel either left or right while parked or moving at slow speeds or fully hitting the brakes at slower speeds.
Two quick questions... 1. Any idea what this might be? I'm wondering if I might not have fully tightened the inner tie rods properly or could it be damage caused to the steering rack/steering rack shaft? Seems the 5th generation 4runner also does not have any washers between the inner rods and steering shaft, like the one's in your above video. 2. How can some of us DIY'ers get our hands on a Toyota Factory Service Manual for a newer 5th generation model or are all 5th generation model manuals the same ( meaning a 2012 manual pretty much applies to a 2018 since not much has changed)
Thanks again so much for doing what you do and helping all us in the process!!! Looking forward to your continued videos and also going through your library of previous videos!!!!
That noise could possibly be coming from the front sway bar. Take a look at the brackets and the end links and see that the bushings are good and the fasteners are tight.
You can't buy the physical Toyota factory service manuals for newer Toyotas but you can access information online via the Toyota Tech Info system. You can pay a fee and access the information. I usually pay $20 for a 2-day description and download the info I require.
techinfo.toyota.com
At the bottom of that page you can click on a link that describes the minimum system requirements. You basically need a PC computer operating Windows 7 or 8. I bought a used Dell laptop from an Ebay seller just so I could access the Tech Info website.
You're very welcome. Great to hear our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching!
YES!!!!!!!!! I just found out I had to replace mine and guess who’s doing it next week!
That's some good timing I reckon. Good luck with the job and Happy Wrenching!
Wow superb video even if you watch it and don’t actually do the work it shows how much work is involved how much tools etc is needed.
Thanks! We appreciate the nice compliment. We're glad you found the video informative. Some of these jobs we perform do take a lot of work and a lot of tools to accomplish but we always feel really good when we're done because we learned something, we saved ourselves or somebody else a lot of money and we get a great sense of accomplishment of being successful with the job. It's a WIN on many levels. Happy Wrenching!
And again👍Thank you Tim, this is my next project approaching quickly for my 99 Sr5 4x. You really are a gentleman and a scholar, GOD bless.
You're very welcome Kevin. Good luck with the tie rod replacements.
Thanks for the links to them adjustable wrenches
Thanks again. Sean and I always try to provide links to tools that we know aren't going to be in your average DIYer's tool arsenal.
Very detail information bruh!!! Cool vid👌🤙
Thanks Brah! Glad you like it.
One of the best information video available. Thank you Sir.
Thanks for the nice compliment Javier. We appreciate it and you're very welcome.
Dude, your videos are gold.
Thanks Andres. We appreciate the compliment.
Thanks for giving us the confidence that we can do the job too! Greetings from SJ as well.
You're very welcome. Are you coming to our party?
I was gunna say “ use a pipe wrench lopp” but you covered it lol. Great video! Thanks
Thanks Dane. Glad you like the video.
Chain vice grips work wonders too.
Very professional explanation. These tricks help to expand my vision and give me serenity when replacing parts in my vehicles. Thanks a ton for sharing your wisdom and experience.
Thanks Poncho. We're glad you found the video informative. You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment.
I did this job a year or so ago. And of course I ran into the same headache with the wrenches. I ended up grinding down some cheap adjustable wrench. Thankfully I live near a harbor freight. Now, whenever I see that wrench I think about that awkward/frustrating job. Good video Timmy.
Thanks Donovan. Yeah, this job threw me for a loop. I didn't like giving up on this one the first time I was trying to film this job with Tony, but I also wanted to show a way to do it without resorting to grinding down my wrenches and/or resorting to the pipe wrench. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Great video timmy Rock on brother Great 4runner video
Thanks Antonio. Glad you like the video.
Thank you for your excellent videos - real confidence boosters! I chose to buy a 30mm open-end spanner and a cheap 42mm crow foot (£8 on eBay) I ground large chamfers on the crow foot to make it fit the narrow flats of the inner tie rod. Thanks again.
You're very welcome Ned. Good job finding affordable tools you could modify for the job. Glad our videos are helping you out.
Timmy! Sending you loads of love from the Colorado mountains!
Appreciate it bro! We should make a trip out there soon! #sicnods!!!
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you Sean!
Thank you for such a good and honest explanation of the whole job!!
You're welcome. Thanks for the compliment.
Thank for all your videos on 4Runners
Our pleasure Carlos.
Well Timmy, you just saved me another $100, and got me some free wrenches to boot. I just replaced the inner and outer tie rods and boot on the driver side of my 98' 4Runner, and it all went as expected, just as seen in your video. I spent some time grinding my wrench down in advance, and it fit perfectly. So, all in all... $250 for inner/outer tie rods and a boot. Awesome! Oh, and if it helps anyone else, I have found really good prices on genuine Toyota parts online from McGeorge Toyota out of Virginia.
Thanks again,
Brent
You're welcome Brent. Good job getting the job done yourself.
I have to service the right inner rod end on my rig. There is a tool Harbor Freight makes for this job, I used on my older Forester, had to modify it a bit but it worked great, even allowing you to torque the rod end to service specs. Great video as always!
Good to know about the Harbor Freight tool.
Really like those adjustables !!
Hey Jake, they are the nicest adjustable wrenches I've ever used for sure. You can get them locked onto whatever you're working on and pretty much have zero play.
Awesome walk-through, very well done 👌
Thanks Vince.
G'day from Australia 🇦🇺 great in depth video mate, very helpful!
Thanks, and you're very welcome our Australian Toyota Brother.
I will need to do my outer tie rods. While changing my LBJ, I damaged one of the tie rod boots. Maybe I can just replace the boots but your videos are super helpful. Thank you for recording them.
I don't know if you can buy just a boot for the outer tie rod. You'd have to go to your local Toyota Dealer parts department and ask. I'm guessing they don't.
Great tutorial video. Possible damage to steering rack when torquing inner tie rod has been my concern. Now I can work on it with confidence.
Thank Joe! Glad our video gave you the confidence you needed.
Thanks for that.. really like you talk with too much detail. Sometimes it saves you hours of work until knowing such details. Or figure out what is going on or what went wrong
Thanks again and wish you the best
Glad you like our style. We would much rather give people too much information than not enough. If the information is too much, people can just fast forward to the part they need clarification on. If there's too little information, we run the risk of leaving people lost on how to successfully finish the job. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman
Sure agree with you. Especially for DIYs for the first time they can find these details are very much helpful. On the other hand, the more advanced DIYs can skip some as you said.
Please don't be intimidated with someone tells you.. oh this is not important to know or that is very easy obvious or so. I speak for myself and consider myself more advanced DIY but also got so much out of your videos.
Thanks so much
Gooooood video sr everthing is clear im going to perform this job my self coz cant pay a tech.
Thanks Ernesto. Good luck with the job.
Does anyone have the toyota part number for that set nut on the outer tie rod since it doenst come with the new one?
Thanks Timmy very helpful.
You're very welcome. Glad you found our video helpful.
Best tie rod info vid for a diyer
Thnx a mil 👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for the nice compliment and you're very welcome.
This was all the info I needed. thanks!!😁
You're welcome Juan.
Thank you sir for another great video 👍
Happy new year 🎊🎈🎆
You're very welcome and Happy New Year back at ya!
hey yall i was able to find 2 Hart brand 12” adjustable wrenches with the super thin end for $20 each at walmart. worked great and i was able to complete the job. steering feels awesome! Thanks Tim! :):):)
Nice find on the adjustable wrenches. Good job doing the repair. You're very welcome.
Bubba you bad. I just seen that my inner tie rods are fit to be tied on the ol work taco. Very informative video. Thank you
Glad you found the video helpful. You're very welcome and good luck with the job.
I used a Harbor Freight #63705 ($36.99) to remove a VW inner tie rod. It has the crow's foot and long rod style Tim was talking about. Looks like the Lisle #LIS46800 ($87.24). I also made a video about the Harbor Freight tool I am mentioning. Hope this helps!
Thank you Tim for making this video. I bought a 98 4Runner 4x4 from North Carolina w 231K miles. I have play in the steering wheel 1" side to side. At >68- 70 mph I have a wheel shake! I went out today to check my outer tie rods and they have "twist" play. No clunk but as you know joints should be tight/firm. If the outer moves the inner tie rod must be loose as well just like your video. I am going to replace them both. I'll find the right wrenches to grind down first then the tie rods!!
Hey Frank, thanks for sharing this. I looked at the description for the Harbor Freight tool you linked and it does not come with a 42mm adapter that would work for 3rd Gen 4runners. I wonder if it's possible to buy the 42mm adapter for this kit?
@@TimmyTheToolman Wow. It worked for the VW but looking at the website it states the biggest is 33.6. Oh well, guess wrenches will have to do. On Ebay now looking for the best OEM tie rod prices. lol
I've looked at several videos on these Toyota Tundra tie rod ends. Yours is the best I've seen. The inner tie rod end tube type tools with the crows feet usually won't work for this 42mm inner tie rod end. It looks like Toyota upgraded the inner tie rod end and the tool isn't deep enough to latch onto the crows foot. I wasn't aware of the thinner crescent wrenches, so you helped me there. Most of the videos they are spinning the inner tie rod end off without holding the shaft. I also wasn't aware of the 2 different ftlb settings for the inner tie rod end but was very satisfied with your technique and plan to do mine the same.
Look through the comments. There's some guys who have found some more affordable options for slim wrenches to get the inner tie rods off. Thanks for the compliment. I hope the job goes smooth for you.
Great video as always Tim.
We're glad you like it. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman I am from Trinidad and Tobago in the Caribbean. I have a JDM 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado. The suspension is exactly the same. The ball joints and other parts are the same as well. So these videos really really helps me out with my diy repairs. Thanks so much. Excellent videos. By far the best I have come across. Keep on educating us.
@@sunilparas6606 Great to hear you're finding our videos helpful and thanks for the nice compliment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Ah! I did mine right around the same time you must’ve done this one. I got stuck with one inner fused to an outer and then one inner fused to the rack. Ended up just needing a bit more coaxing from a pipe wrench and a dead blow for the inner attached to the rack. I wish I’d known you could reuse the larger boot clamps, they’re a pain to try and find, so for now I’ve just got a large zip tie on it which is what I see most aftermarket reboot kits coming with.
Also that ball joint puller makes things SO easy! Tried a pickle fork and failed miserably. The puller I added to my toolset.
Hey Rory, well, you got it done and that's what counts. This job did throw me for a loop due to the need for specialty or altered wrenches. Next time you have something really stuck, apply some heat with a small butane torch. I've found a little heat helps a lot for stuck fasteners. We provide the part number for those inner clamps in the video description if you wanted to order a set. Pullers are definitely the way to go. The Big F'ing Hammer or Pickle Fork are not techniques I subscribe to.
You are better than TV great videos. My go to for my Tundra. Thanks
Better than even watching South Park too? Now that's a compliment because they are very educational and funny. But in all seriousness, I appreciate the compliment of our channel. Thanks!
Thanks brooo!! Gonna do mine taco soon
You're welcome Bro! Good luck with the job.
Great video sir. Thank you
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Thanks Timmy and Sean!
You're very welcome!
Great video! Looks like you wrestled the bear on that one. I found at the end of the day when I just did my Seqouia (very similar rack), it was easier and cost effective($229) to replace the whole rack time wise. I also used 555 ($35/ea japan brand) greaseable tie rod ends and a new rack from BuyAutoParts. The new aftermarket rack was EXACTLY the same with the same case markings,good reviews and everything. Super satisfied with it. I have not had to do my 01 4Runner yet. Just the poly bushings on the rack. The rack for the 4Runner is $170 delivered from them also. I would probably go the same route again. Alignment was about $70.
Glad you like the video. It's great that you've had good luck with your aftermarket steering rack but others haven't been so lucky. I've seen enough bad reports on aftermarket steering racks to "steer me clear of them", pun intended. I'm also leery of using aftermarket tie rods. I guess I'm one of those purest who likes to use mostly only OEM Toyota parts when it comes to steering components. So far, the only aftermarket steering component I've used is poly steering rack bushings which seems to be a nice upgrade over OEM.
I'll report back in a year. The wife hits every pothole and small animal she can get to. It literately had the same manufacturer marks and everything as the toyota one that came off. It was tough to do the $700 for the OE when this had a ton of great reviews.
kapple17 i did the same, bit on a 90 series Landcruiser Prado. I like to use genuine Toyota parts but the PS rack is super expensive, replaced the genuine with a complete aftermarket over a year ago no issues.
Glad I watched this first. I found Hart brand narrow jaw adjustable wrenches at walmart for 20.00 a piece. Totally saved my bacon.
Hey Jason, good find on those affordable wrenches.
Hey Tim, great video's as usual. Quick question, I'm planning on doing inner and outer tie rod ends and lower ball joints this weekend will I still need to get the tie rod end puller or with having the ball joints loose will i be able to slide it off without? Just wanting to make sure I get all of my eggs in one basket.
You'll need the puller.
One word excellent
One word, Thanks!
Great job Timmy!!
Thanks Uncle Ben!
@@TimmyTheToolman .. doing exactly as you did!!
Outstanding!
We're glad you think so. Thanks for the comment.
I had good luck with "Cal-Van Tools 946 Low Profile Inner Tie Rod Tool" from Amazon ($12) on my 2000 Tundra, it would probably work on 4runner as well. With that you can use a ratchet or even an impact on the inner tie rod. You can also use a torque wrench when reinstalling.
Thanks for the tip Scott.
Well done! Fyi, the Lisle special tool you posted is a great deal compared to the $350 from toyota or matco. The Lisle tool says it comes with 42mm also so should be good there.
If I would have noticed there was a special inner tie rod tool available to purchase before I bought the Bacho adjustable wrenches, I probably would have bought the Lisle kit. But, I can't see buying the kit now that I have some wrenches that will do the job for me.
Great video, thanks. My Sequoia has a creak when turning - close to full lock. Could this be a tie rod?
Hey James, glad you like the video. A creak from a tie rod? Maybe. I think you should get under the rig and have somebody turning the wheels back and forth lock to lock and see if you can pinpoint the source of the noise. Just choose someone you trust that won't run you over. ;-)
Timmy The Toolman thanks Tim. I won’t choose the wife then!
@@jamesg4266 Now that's funny James. Smart man!
Good video!
Thanks!
Very good video sir
Thanks Brandon. Glad you like it.
Great detailed videos! Keep them coming. Best on the internet!
Thanks Joe. We appreciate the compliment and we will keep them coming. Happy Wrenching Joe!
Thank you You're The best!!
You're very welcome Mario. Thanks for the comment.
I just bought a steering rack off of Ebay that as well, reads 'toyoda' proclaimed OEM... What do you think?
That's how Toyota was originally spelled. It's common to see that name stamped on Toyota products. But, Ebay isn't as safe of a purchase compared to buying from an authorized Toyota dealer online seller like Camelback Toyota in Arizona.
I had one of my welders just grind down half of my 2 Cresent wrenches , they look cool .
Yep that would work. Nice Macgyvering.
When using the "*Lisle Large Inner Tie Rod Tool Kit - (option to using Bacho adjustable wrenches)" do you still have to "hold the steering shaft firm" with a Bacho wrench or ground down wrench or does the Lisle kit make this un-necessary? If you still need a Bacho wrench which size do you need (10" or 12")? If you still need a Bacho it seems like the best route to take would be to purchase the two Bacho wrench's since the cost is about the same and the Bacho's are more versatile than the Lisle kit. Would you agree? As always thanks for the reply and keep on making those vids.
Hey Mark, your question was the same question I had. The Toyota FSM clearly shows holding the shaft with one tool while breaking the inner tie rod free with another. Like I said in the video, the fact that they put two flat sections on the end of the shaft so you can fit a wrench on it tells me the engineers think it's necessary to support the shaft so all the force needed to break free the inner tie rod isn't transferred to the shaft. With the Lisle style tool, I bet most people aren't holding the steering rack shaft with another wrench. Maybe the force necessary to break it free and re-tighten it isn't enough to cause any damage to the internal components, but I didn't want to find out the hard way if it could cause damage. I guess if you had the Lisle Inner Tie Rod Tool and then somebody to help you to hold the shaft while you work the Lisle tool from the wheel well area, this would work and protect the steering rack. The Bacho wrenches aren't specific tools and are way more versatile so your argument makes perfect sense. Some guys have found more affordable wrench options and if you look through the comments, you'll probably find some options to the Bacho adjustable wrenches. I also think on T4R.org there's related threads where guys used other types of wrenches with success. I like the Bacho wrenches and I'm glad I got them but they are a little on the pricey side. They are by far the nicest adjustable wrench I've ever used.
If the outer tie rod threads at the knuckle joint spin while tightening the castle nut, what is a good method to keep the threaded rod stationary? I tried a different style ball joint separator upside down but there isn't enough room to spin the 19mm castle nut inside the U shaped portion of the separator. I am trying to avoid buying the impact driver. I did get it with a second jack pushing the outer tie rod up but that seems like it might flatten the threads because it is coming in at an angle. Suggestion for others, I picked up a new scissor jack for $12 at the junk yard.
Using a jack to push the tie rod firm into the lower ball joint is the right technique to stop the shaft of the tie rod from spinning. The tie rod shaft and the hole it goes into is tapered. By applying pressure under the tie rod, you're creating the friction necessary to get the castle nut spun on and bottomed out. If the castle nut threads and tie rod threads were in perfect shape and the nut threaded on smoothly, you wouldn't have this issue. But, either the nut threads get a bit compromised or the shaft threads get a little rough, and now the force required to turn the nut on the tie rod shaft threads is more than the force required to spin the tie rod joint.
Thank you for sharing that counter-holding the non-rotating steering shaft (the one that slides) with a suitable tool while you twist off (or on) the inner tie rod. You are absolutely correct. It may sound like common sense, but i believe i did not counter hold the inner shaft while removing the inner tie rod, on my VW, with the harbor freight tool (long ass socket like 16 inches long).
I honestly don't know how crucial it is to hold the steering shaft when breaking free and tightening the inner tie rod, but that's what it showed in the Toyota factory service manual.
@@TimmyTheToolman I don’t know either however, like you said, if there’s a slot to fit a wrench, then I will put one. Just in case. Haven’t done it yet in 4runner.
BRAVO... Now l can replace my old tierod 👍
Timmy, I have a 2006 Tundra double cab. The OTC service set on Amazon says it doesn’t fit my vehicle. Do you know this statement to be true? Have you ever used them on a gen 1 Tundra or Sequoia? Really appreciate all your videos, very helpful!
The OTC Front End Service Set should work for lots of vehicles. Now, whether or not the pullers will work on your Tundra, I don't know for sure because I've never used them on a Tundra. I would say there's a high likelihood they will work for your vehicle just fine. If you buy it on Amazon, you could always return it without much hassle if it doesn't.
Thanks, I’ll give it a try. It looks like a quality set.
I understand there are numerous reasons for "loose steering" or steering that swims around (constantly having to correct, etc). But after UBJ, LBJs, steering rack bushings, sway bar bushings, shocks, springs, and an alignment etc... I'm thinking it's time for inner/outer tie rods. Hoping that fixes it
Hey Hunter, have you looked into the Steering Rack Guide Replacement? We have a video for that: czcams.com/video/r4Hhl225E8A/video.html There's also another chance the play is within your main steering shaft. The main shaft is made to collapse and telescope together as a safety feature for a front end collision. The shaft can develop a little play over time and that little bit of play can translate to significant slop in your steering. We just shot a video showing how to repair this and it will be coming out soon. This repair does possibly defeat the safety feature, but it has been the fix for people tired of having slop in their steering. Stay tuned.
Timmy, you are great, have you tried to borrow the tie rod tool from the parts store, what is your opinion about counting the number of turns instead of threads, can you say what size is the tie rod castle nut, 14X1.25?. Thanks
I've never tried to borrow the tie rod tool. The thing about those tie rod tools is you're just cranking on the inner tie rod and not holding counter pressure on the shaft of the steering rack. Counting turns I suppose could work, but I've seen slight differences in the length of the tie rods so I think making matchmarks might be better. I don't know the size of the castle nut unfortunately, but M14 x 1.25 is a good guess.
HEY T! THX FOR THE INTERESTING VIDEO. IS THIS PROCEDURE THE SAME FOR REPLACING INNER/ OUTER TIE RODS ON 2007 LEXUS ES350 SAME AS THIS TOYOTA TACOMA ?
I haven't worked on that Lexus model so I can't give you an accurate answer. But, I would imagine the steps would be very similar.
@@TimmyTheToolman K THX TALLY HO. ITS THE LAST OF THE SUSPENSION REBUILD. STILL A BIT OF DRIFT LEFT IN STEERING
@@MICHAELWALTON1 Good luck with the job!
Great explanation on how to professionally replace tie rods! I recently replaced my tie rod ends on my 2002 4Runner (using OEM parts). When tightening the passenger side tie rod castle nut I noticed that the grease was seeping out and the stud (which the castle nut goes onto) seemed to be pulled too far through the knuckle. I stopped tightening before reaching 67 ft-lbs. If there is any explanation to this that would be great! Thank you. Did I do something incorrectly or could the part be defective?
Thanks Ben. We appreciate the compliment. Maybe the tie rod was filled with too much grease. Maybe the taper of the tie rod was a machined a bit too skinny allowing it to sink deeper into the lower balljoint connection. If you got it pretty tight and the castle nut can be properly backed up with a cotter pin, you're probably ok. If the shaft of the tie rod sunk so deeply that you can't install a cotter pin through the castle nut, that's not good. I would return the tie rod and get a replacement.
@@TimmyTheToolman It turned out that the dealer gave me the wrong lower ball joint and the tapered hole for the tie rod end was too big. This didn't occur to me until I had damaged the tie rod boot by being able to over tighten it due to the larger hole. Someone at the dealer had placed the lower ball joint in the incorrectly labeled bag. Thankfully they replaced the tie rod and ball joint free of charge. Having solved that issue I have moved on to addressing oil leaks. I am currently working on my oil cooler gasket and couldn't find a video of yours for the job. Maybe it could be a future video. Thanks for the previous reply and all of your great videos!
@@benhall8681 Hey Ben, good to hear you got it figured out and the dealer made it right.
I've actually replaced the oil cooler seal on a friend's rig but we didn't film it. You can get an idea of how to do it from our 3.4 Swap video series. Start watching this video at the 9 minute and 10 second time stamp: czcams.com/video/AvHvk9N-hTA/video.html to see how to get the oil cooler off. Start watching this video at the 30 minute and 30 second time stamp: czcams.com/video/_G_zqDC9kFM/video.html to see how to get the oil cooler back on with a new gasket. When doing this job with the engine still in the engine compartment, you'll want to get the alternator out of the way if you plan on replacing the oil cooler hoses as well. You can see how to do that in this video: czcams.com/video/71_kBhg6_-A/video.html. Getting the alternator out of the way will give you access to the cooler hose connection at the side of the water pump. If you don't plan on replacing the hoses, you won't have to remove the alternator. You'll want to do most of the work through the driver side wheel well. This means you'll have to disconnect those rubber and plastic mud flaps so you can see the engine through the wheel well. You'll most likely break some of the clips but you can buy replacements at Toyota if you want to get the mud flaps back on securely. This is the best I can do for you. Hope it helps.
I think i need to replace one of the tie rod end. Do you think I should change he one is bad or both? Since i do not go off road OEM is not necessary. Am i right? thank you
You're fine with just changing the one that's bad. As for choosing aftermarket over OEM, I personally wouldn't do it. OEM is always, always, always the safest way to go. You pay more but you're getting a superior product.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you so much Timmy. I followed your advice. I got the OEM. Thank you again!!!
@@Leino26 You're welcome.
Thanks!
You're welcome!
Hello there, do you know if I have to remove the outer tie rod again to adjust the toe ? All my other vehicles had an outer tie rod that can spin free once you unlock the tight nut to adjust the tire,I'm afraid to damage my inner tie if I forced the outer tie rod to spin over .thanks
Hey Felipe, no, you don't have to remove the outer tie rod to adjust the toe. The alignment techs loosen the lock nut, make the necessary adjustments and then lock it back down.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Timmy,I learn a lot from your videos.
FELIPE VALLES that’s awesome. Thanks for stopping by & commenting on our videos. We hope you’re a subscriber & if you enjoyed the video, do us a solid & smash that like button!
Thanks 👍🏼
No problem 👍
Great vid as always, I'd would appreciate you showing a few ways to check the outer tie rods and maybe compare the old inner tie rods with the new ones
Btw. I'm on my first year of mechanic school
And I like playing your videos for the class, even tho they don't speak English
Also nice t shirt
Thanks Hugo. Glad you like the video and even cooler you share my videos at your mechanic school. To check a tie rod to see if it's still good is basically checking for any joint play. Sometimes you can do that my simply grabbing onto the tie rod and push and pull on it trying to detect play. Another way is to use the tire as leverage and push and pull on the tire with one hand while having the other hand on the joint trying to detect if there's any play in the joint.
Is the steering shaft supposed to be positioned a certain way and or not be moved ? I think I might had moved mines a little bit counter clockwise don’t know if I should position it straight or a certain way hope it doesn’t interfere with the driving mechanism of the steering rack smh 🤦🏽♂️
Yeah, you want to try and avoid moving the Steering wheel/steerign shaft so everything lines up essentially the same way before you took it all apart.
Hi Tim! If you go through NAPA and get the 555 inner tie rods it comes with a new lock/jam nut. I’ve found “Three Five” (555) parts to be similar to OEM. Part number SR-3560
That's good to know. I'm pretty much a fan of buying OEM but I've heard decent things Sankei 555 brand.
Do you still condemn the inner tire rod end even if there is no lateral play in the joint?
If there's no detectable play in the joint, it's my opinion they don't need to be replaced. Tony wanted to replace them so we did, but I'm of the opinion that he replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced.
Hey Timmy! Just watched this video in preparation for doing inner and outer tie rod ends on my '98 4Runner. One question-I only need the drivers side replaced, would you recommend doing BOTH sides at once or is it OK to just do the drivers side and get an alignment afterwards? Thanks so much-Davis
If only one side is causing you issue, just do the one side. If the other side fails shortly after, you will be paying for another alignment but that's the luck of the draw. Sometimes parts are replaced just because the labor to get to it is extensive, for example replacing non-leaking camshaft and crankshaft seals while doing the timing belt job. Even though they aren't leaking, people replace them because it would suck if they developed a leak later on and then you have to repeat all that labor. For this application, you're not going to have to repeat any labor. You just might have to pay for another alignment and I think it's worth the risk and just leave the passenger side alone if the tie rods are fine.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the quick and thoughtful response and all that you do! These detailed videos and links to the best/most practical parts are insanely helpful. Looking forward to completing the job soon and thanks in advance for saving me time/money. Cheers!
@@zoewuthrich2121 You're very welcome and good luck with the job. I hope it goes smooth for you.
@@zoewuthrich2121 great question, and one that was going through my mind as I watched the video 👍🏼 How did your tie rod replacement go? I have a ‘98 SR5 that has a “thunk” in the steering wheel when I go over bumps, and I bet it’s those tie rods, gonna check tomorrow. So great full for all of Timmy and Sean’s fantastic videos!!