Just a note on my experience with tricams....i find them feckin brilliant. I mostly climb on quarried granite but have also used them on quartzite. What i love about them is that with a good placement you instantly know they're not going anywhere. We've all had the experience of placing what we think is a bomber nut only to climb past and it pops out. Similarly with cams, you place one, not over or undercammed, all lobes in contact etc but by the time your second reaches it it has moved and opened out or one lobe loses contact. I find tricams versatile and superb for having confidence in your placement. Keep up the good work, loving your content!!
Nice Camelot’s and totems 👌👌👌 superlight rocks walnuts and dmm offsets - winning 💪👊 Really nice to hear you talk about Boulder Tickle 😂😜 and hex use there - bomber ( as cams can sometimes feel a bit sketch in some of the soapy cracks 😂😂😂
I assumed you’d add a spare 240 to be carried by the second. That way when you build a belay with the one on your harness and brought up the second, whoever’s leading the next pitch (you or them) can take the spare one.k x
I guess the protection you take is always dependant on where and what you climb, my problem is that in my area, most stuff is already developed for sport climbing and none of the guides tell you what range of gear you might need on a route, so its take everything you have to the crag and then rack up for what you can see that you might need. Also big Fan of my dragons, got some c4's and first thing I did Was sand the paint of from the lobes as they tended not to bite as nice.
@@Govanification got a myself a couple of the big c4's which I dont need that often and when I do i like the retaining Clip so they dont take up that much space on the harness, other than that I love my dmm gear.
@@davidsimpson3885 I haven't tried the Dragons bigger than a blue hand size but I do have the WC Friend #4 which is also great, extendable sling, bare lobes and lots of bite. That said, now that I have C4s in #4-6 with the keeper wires, I wish all big cams had those...
I'm still trying to refine my rack, but currently my "take it up everything" rack is a full set of totems from 0.5-1.8 (approximately 0.2-2 in BD sizes), tricams from 0.25-2, a full set of DMM offset nuts and dmm wallnuts from 1-6 or so. To supplement that I'll use BD C4s, BD Z4s, and DMM brass nuts (IMPs and HB Offsets). Or in special cases, BD Peckers 2 and 3 (if the climb has pin scars)
A1 content as per usual and I know it's an older video but... Why do quickdraws have the plain aluminium carabiner at the top (bolt or gear) and the coloured one at the rope end? I get it for sport climbing so there's a bright green /orange /whatever thing to focus on getting to, but it makes so much more sense to me to colour code your kit on the gear loops, for me my black (diamond) draws are short, blue are my long (25cm, X4) and my red are alpine draws, at the harness/gear end. I have different colours for different bits, so wallnuts are green for large 7-11 or gold for small 1-6, offsets on blue, and WC superlight offsets on purple. Red would be for tiny stuff but I don't have any yet. Tbh I didn't even consider that I'm going against the international standard when putting it together but now I'm thinking maybe it would be better to use the same system as most people use? Also using coloured carabiners at the gear/bolt end makes damage more obvious. I'd be interested in your thoughts on this. 👍
@@largeformatlandscape good to know I'm not the only one, even got told recently that it's wrong, shouldn't do it then got told how to tie a prusik etc. Someone must have suggested I had never been climbing before...
@@mattbaker1683 Do people really look down at their harness and just see a sea of grey for their quickdraws? I like my colour coding for everything. I suppose they were telling you that gates out was wrong too ;-)
@@largeformatlandscape YES! I'm an outie too... I don't get it, you want a short qd, it's silver, long, silver, alpine, er, silver. Or you mess around running your hand up to the top to unhook it. Fine, if I'm climbing with others on their gear I'll use it their way but I won't be leading and pushing grades when I can't tell what's what.
Really enjoying these video’s your putting out, really interesting to get a professional’s take on everything, and you explain it so well! Is there a particular reason you don’t use dry treated half ropes? I’m looking to get my first set this year and want to make the right decision for my needs 👍
Glad you like them! I do have some dry treated ones too. If money is no issue, dry treated are the way forwards, not only will they not soak up so much water if its wet, they're a bit more resistant to picking up loads of dust and dirt, so stay nicer for longer. I don't climb in the rain v much though either, so non dry are fine 99% of the time.
The general everyday multi-pitch kit that seems to have missed going in the pack is a leash or PAS of some sort (I prefer a purcell prusik). What are you using from your pack for tying in, one of the slings or are you always using just a bit of rope & clove hitching in? I have also found a cordelette always makes its way into my everyday trad rack, since it is so versatile and is also my go-to throwaway cord for cutting up on abseils, along with a quicklink or two on sketchy unknown routes. Thanks for the follow up!
Tie in with a clove hitch on the rope going up, use a 120cm sling as a rappel extension/tether combo on the way down. He uses that 240cm sling for anchor building if he doesn't use the rope (more common in the UK than the US to use the rope). Agreed a cordalette is a super useful tool, I bring one made out of either 6mm nylon cord or a thinner tech cord (Sterling Powercord or Blue Water Titan cord) which is lighter and stronger but more expensive to leave as tat. For anything more remote or alpine, bringing 20-30ft of nylon webbing and a few lightweight aluminum rappel rings is also a good idea in case you need to improvise or reinforce a rappel station.
Yeah, as Govanification says, I'll use the rope to clove hitch in normally. I'd use a Petzl Connect if I was doing some multi pitch sport. Cordelettes aren't v common in the UK as they're not necessary very often, but they can obviously work super well in the right situations :)
Thanks for the video! Would you ever consider the halfnuts as a lightweight way to double up the wallnuts? probably carrying the offsets as well. I currently have one set of wallnuts and the standard offsets and wondering if the halfnuts are a more versatile way to double up than getting another set of wallnuts
@@JBMountainSkills thanks, I've been tempted to get some for a while and I'm trying to work out if it's just because I like shiny new kit or whether they'd actually be useful haha!
Hi. Would it be possible to do some videos on single pitch escaping the system and second climbs post he runner? I can't see any in your collection. Thanks.
Hi Jez, a few articles I've read on climber's pages, UKC, ... have suggested adding a set of rocks to a set of wallnuts or vice-versa... given I've got a set of wallnuts already, I'd love your opinion on whether another set of these vs a set of rocks would be best to add? :-)
I think in principle it can be a good idea, to introduce a bit of variety, but in reality I've never felt the need personally. I have occasionally used other people's kit which has a WC / DMM mix, which wasn't a problem, but neither did it change my mind!
They've definitely got some advantages, wear well, good for poking through holes for threads for example. I prefer the way regular slings sit around my chest and on my harness though...
I carry an aramid for my abseil kit and it gets used for sharp flakes or for threads on the way up... (or possibly for weighted belays but I'll usually stick a wiregate in the knot instead)
You are such a big help for me! Thanks for making all of these videos!! Learning so much from your whole channel keep it up
Happy to help!
Just a note on my experience with tricams....i find them feckin brilliant. I mostly climb on quarried granite but have also used them on quartzite. What i love about them is that with a good placement you instantly know they're not going anywhere.
We've all had the experience of placing what we think is a bomber nut only to climb past and it pops out. Similarly with cams, you place one, not over or undercammed, all lobes in contact etc but by the time your second reaches it it has moved and opened out or one lobe loses contact. I find tricams versatile and superb for having confidence in your placement.
Keep up the good work, loving your content!!
Thanks for sharing :)
What a view!! Really missing North Wales. Excellent vid as always, Jez
Such a nice spot!
Nice Camelot’s and totems 👌👌👌 superlight rocks walnuts and dmm offsets - winning 💪👊 Really nice to hear you talk about Boulder Tickle 😂😜 and hex use there - bomber ( as cams can sometimes feel a bit sketch in some of the soapy cracks 😂😂😂
Got to love a Ruckle soapy crack
I assumed you’d add a spare 240 to be carried by the second.
That way when you build a belay with the one on your harness and brought up the second, whoever’s leading the next pitch (you or them) can take the spare one.k x
The kit at the end (belay devices, slings etc) are what I'd expect my mate to bring as well, so we would have 2 240's between us :)
The boy looks like a posing film star in this video. Looking forward to meeting up in May. 👍👍👍👍👍
Hopefully the weather is as good!
@@JBMountainSkills hopefully like today absolutely stunning down Pembroke (Saddle head)
Very helpful. Love all your content
Glad you like the videos!
Used the creek today for the first time. 👌
Creek 50 is a beast for trad cragging! Carries heavy loads super well.
Nice! Great pack, I love mine and it's well abused but hardly has a mark on it!
It’s just such a well made and good pack - my go to pack - so good I’ve got the 50 and 35 💪👊
I guess the protection you take is always dependant on where and what you climb, my problem is that in my area, most stuff is already developed for sport climbing and none of the guides tell you what range of gear you might need on a route, so its take everything you have to the crag and then rack up for what you can see that you might need. Also big Fan of my dragons, got some c4's and first thing I did Was sand the paint of from the lobes as they tended not to bite as nice.
Stick with Dragons or the New Friends in hand sizes, I love the better bite they have plus extendable slings means they walk much less than C4's.
@@Govanification got a myself a couple of the big c4's which I dont need that often and when I do i like the retaining Clip so they dont take up that much space on the harness, other than that I love my dmm gear.
I definitely like the bare metal finish on the second generation of Dragons.
@@davidsimpson3885 I haven't tried the Dragons bigger than a blue hand size but I do have the WC Friend #4 which is also great, extendable sling, bare lobes and lots of bite. That said, now that I have C4s in #4-6 with the keeper wires, I wish all big cams had those...
I'm still trying to refine my rack, but currently my "take it up everything" rack is a full set of totems from 0.5-1.8 (approximately 0.2-2 in BD sizes), tricams from 0.25-2, a full set of DMM offset nuts and dmm wallnuts from 1-6 or so.
To supplement that I'll use BD C4s, BD Z4s, and DMM brass nuts (IMPs and HB Offsets). Or in special cases, BD Peckers 2 and 3 (if the climb has pin scars)
Ooo, peckers, must be in the States?
@@JBMountainSkills yep, specifically Northern California.
Do you think that when using dragon cams, because the cam sling extends, this can reduce the number of QuickDraws being carried can be reduced to 10?
A1 content as per usual and I know it's an older video but...
Why do quickdraws have the plain aluminium carabiner at the top (bolt or gear) and the coloured one at the rope end? I get it for sport climbing so there's a bright green /orange /whatever thing to focus on getting to, but it makes so much more sense to me to colour code your kit on the gear loops, for me my black (diamond) draws are short, blue are my long (25cm, X4) and my red are alpine draws, at the harness/gear end. I have different colours for different bits, so wallnuts are green for large 7-11 or gold for small 1-6, offsets on blue, and WC superlight offsets on purple. Red would be for tiny stuff but I don't have any yet. Tbh I didn't even consider that I'm going against the international standard when putting it together but now I'm thinking maybe it would be better to use the same system as most people use? Also using coloured carabiners at the gear/bolt end makes damage more obvious. I'd be interested in your thoughts on this. 👍
Exactly what I do…
@@largeformatlandscape good to know I'm not the only one, even got told recently that it's wrong, shouldn't do it then got told how to tie a prusik etc. Someone must have suggested I had never been climbing before...
@@mattbaker1683 Do people really look down at their harness and just see a sea of grey for their quickdraws? I like my colour coding for everything. I suppose they were telling you that gates out was wrong too ;-)
@@largeformatlandscape YES! I'm an outie too... I don't get it, you want a short qd, it's silver, long, silver, alpine, er, silver. Or you mess around running your hand up to the top to unhook it. Fine, if I'm climbing with others on their gear I'll use it their way but I won't be leading and pushing grades when I can't tell what's what.
Really enjoying these video’s your putting out, really interesting to get a professional’s take on everything, and you explain it so well! Is there a particular reason you don’t use dry treated half ropes? I’m looking to get my first set this year and want to make the right decision for my needs 👍
Glad you like them!
I do have some dry treated ones too. If money is no issue, dry treated are the way forwards, not only will they not soak up so much water if its wet, they're a bit more resistant to picking up loads of dust and dirt, so stay nicer for longer.
I don't climb in the rain v much though either, so non dry are fine 99% of the time.
@@JBMountainSkills that makes perfect sense, I don’t enjoy routes in the rain so non dry treated is probably the way forward, Thankyou!
The general everyday multi-pitch kit that seems to have missed going in the pack is a leash or PAS of some sort (I prefer a purcell prusik). What are you using from your pack for tying in, one of the slings or are you always using just a bit of rope & clove hitching in? I have also found a cordelette always makes its way into my everyday trad rack, since it is so versatile and is also my go-to throwaway cord for cutting up on abseils, along with a quicklink or two on sketchy unknown routes. Thanks for the follow up!
Tie in with a clove hitch on the rope going up, use a 120cm sling as a rappel extension/tether combo on the way down. He uses that 240cm sling for anchor building if he doesn't use the rope (more common in the UK than the US to use the rope). Agreed a cordalette is a super useful tool, I bring one made out of either 6mm nylon cord or a thinner tech cord (Sterling Powercord or Blue Water Titan cord) which is lighter and stronger but more expensive to leave as tat. For anything more remote or alpine, bringing 20-30ft of nylon webbing and a few lightweight aluminum rappel rings is also a good idea in case you need to improvise or reinforce a rappel station.
Yeah, as Govanification says, I'll use the rope to clove hitch in normally. I'd use a Petzl Connect if I was doing some multi pitch sport.
Cordelettes aren't v common in the UK as they're not necessary very often, but they can obviously work super well in the right situations :)
Thanks for the video! Would you ever consider the halfnuts as a lightweight way to double up the wallnuts? probably carrying the offsets as well. I currently have one set of wallnuts and the standard offsets and wondering if the halfnuts are a more versatile way to double up than getting another set of wallnuts
Half nuts could definitely work well as a second set to walnuts. Personally wouldn't take them and offsets, but I'm sure some do!
@@JBMountainSkills thanks, I've been tempted to get some for a while and I'm trying to work out if it's just because I like shiny new kit or whether they'd actually be useful haha!
Hi. Would it be possible to do some videos on single pitch escaping the system and second climbs post he runner? I can't see any in your collection. Thanks.
I'll put it on the list!
@@JBMountainSkills brilliant thanks.
🤙🏻💯🔥
How do you like to rack your harness for multipitch. Whats on each gear loop to keep things organised? Thanks dude
Short video of that coming soon!
Great content, just wondering about micro cams, do you usually only bring two sizes?
I do, I climb up to E4 on a good day and the two sizes are enough... but next time I place an order I think I'll get one more, smaller again.
Hi Jez, a few articles I've read on climber's pages, UKC, ... have suggested adding a set of rocks to a set of wallnuts or vice-versa... given I've got a set of wallnuts already, I'd love your opinion on whether another set of these vs a set of rocks would be best to add? :-)
I think in principle it can be a good idea, to introduce a bit of variety, but in reality I've never felt the need personally. I have occasionally used other people's kit which has a WC / DMM mix, which wasn't a problem, but neither did it change my mind!
What is your take on the aramid type of slings Jez?
They've definitely got some advantages, wear well, good for poking through holes for threads for example. I prefer the way regular slings sit around my chest and on my harness though...
I carry an aramid for my abseil kit and it gets used for sharp flakes or for threads on the way up... (or possibly for weighted belays but I'll usually stick a wiregate in the knot instead)
Didn’t knotice the dog until 9 minutes in
Stealth dog!