Heheh, I cringed a bit too! If I lived in Germany, I'd have sent Stefan my six jaws, as the body of my 3-jaw Emco has been cracked ever since I bought my used Maximat 20 years ago. Dunno if the jaws would be much use in mis-matched body though...
For someone whose first language is not English, you have a gift for turning clever English phrases: "This is sacrilege, probably...", and "Power tapping is really the civilized way to go...." You're the gold standard for precision and craftsmanship for the CZcams machining community.
Nice insightful twist to talk about the first grinding attempt that didn't work out and how you tackled the problem. Watching your hands talking, for some reason I was reminded of This Old Tony :)
Great Stefan, this video came in on my mobile just when I was boarding a flight, dammm! I said, couldnt wait for the arrive at my destination to view your video. Great as usual thanks. Noel
I thought you would end up grinding the jaws in the chuck with a preload. That is how I envisioned the process when you started the video. Nice work. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I really enjoyed it! Mark
Sir, It is always a pleasure to watch a craftsman work. Your work is always outstanding and i love your sense of humor. Keep it up and thanks for sharing.
when I was doing production lathe work we used a lot of soft jaws..usually on a 14 inch chuck..we would all ways put a small relief grove at the corner radius in the back of the jaw cut to allow for debris accumulation in the jaw pocket..I had a hobby lathe at home and all ways thought about doing just what you just did...so I found this very entertaining...I am now retired and no longer do any machining...but thanks for the memories with your excellent videos
I've machined a few jaws down. Jaws are consumables as far as i'm concerned. I really, really like chucks that have bolt on jaws, those are such versatile chucks regardless of how many jaws, 3 4 or more they have.
pretty cool, I thought about doing that and making a soft jaw chuck out of one since standard 3 jaws are much cheaper than the soft jaw ones, but I was always worried about the drilling and tapping part of it. For removing the material, I figured the shaper wouldnt have too much trouble with it, lol. I bet I could make a tool bit or two out of the remnants of those jaws, lol.
Hi Stefan, it is sometimes nice to just start fresh so selling the old one will be best in the end in our opinion. Besides this made a good first mode (that we can recall) share for your new GREAT lathe, one you will now always remember later, after selling the chuck it turns out you needed so you made a new one. NICE work. Thank you for the share, Lance & Patrick.
"So the jaws don't VeebleVobble around" - I always learn new words when I watch your videos. :-) Seriously, very good video - highly instructive. I used to own the Emco Maximat V10 which I found was not rigid enough for my work. After you have some time on your new lathe, I would be interested to hear your comments on whether it was actually an upgrade from your rebuilt Chinese lathe. The drawbar with ratchet for tapping is a great idea. Thanks for this video.
Ever since you cut off the jaws to modify the chuck I’ve noticed more earthquakes and stronger storms across the planet. I believe you’ve meddled with the primary forces of nature and we will all pay a price.
That foam sponge drives me nuts falling apart in my hands. Thinking of trying the rubber ones Tom Lipton used in his last video if I can find them. Your new tool post is looking really sharp.
Falling apart? You mean the abrasive being shed, or the entire foam and everything falling apart? In response to the former, if that bothers you, the rubber ones create way more swarf. For the latter, I've never seen one fall apart like that.
Beautiful Conversion !! Just think how much those chuck jaws would cost, if you had to purchase them from the factory !!! Ingenuity and Accuracy = Innovation !
I love watching this stuff. Any advice for someone wanting to show his projects off for the first time? I have a collection of custom fixtures for "mass producing" some aluminum parts on a Tormach mill, but the filmography stuff eludes me.
I had a feeling you would have issues when you referenced the bottom of the jaw teeth instead of the side grooves for grinding. No real reason for the factory to hold that dimension to high tolerance, so they don't.
The chuck has no seperate back plate, the D1-3 taper is integral to the chuckbody. There is virtualy no runout on the chuckbody, not sure what happened in the video.
It's a bit poor, but one way that I was taught to do risky powertapping was to tighten your drill chuck just enough to tap the hole, so that the tap can slip if it binds or bottoms out. Of course this may not be best to do in your shiniest Albrecht chuck, but maybe for the old Shars chuck. You probably already know this, but just in case, I thought I'd share. Cheers!
Probably not, unless he has a arm turning the camera around to look towards the spindle head. He could have attached it to anything, except for the grinder table.
@@StefanGotteswinter Wow..... All mine are white or a kind of creamy color.... I have never seen a standard Al Oxide wheel in Ruby... I have a couple of Ruby colored wheels and they are an extremely hard compound.. Not sure of their composition, I will have to check next time I am in the shop... Thanks for your reply Mate.....
I am learning... why did you choose to use a smaller end mill to finish up the sides of the key on the jaws? Wouldn't the larger end mill be more rigid and thus produce a better result? Thanks for the education!
The surface the soft jaws mount against being out of flat the next time you checked them was most likely between the clearance in the jaw slot and the relationship of the jaw to the scroll thread. Or is that right word. Pie jaws while they work well are not as good as oversized or step collets.
Great Video. German meme "I need to true up my bottom jaws so I can mount my soft jaws true before I bore them". Thanks for the idea of making single jaws into the bottom jaws.
Danke für dein Film. Ich habe mir auch deinen Beitrag in der ZB durchgelesen. Des englichen bin nicht mächtig. Ich habe auch schon seit Jahren solch ein Futter mit einem Satz Backen liegen. Nun weiß ich was ich damit machen kann. Danke.
I started commenting on the chuck back not being parallel to the the jaw teeth...Now I'm going to comment on hardening them back up so the teeth won't wear out from the scroll. They should be at least 52HRC or harder
Caveat - I learned everything I "know" by watching CZcams, having never actually having the opportunity to get near a lathe or milling machine in my life, never mind actually actually use one. However it strikes me as I get to 1:51 as you mention you don't have jaws/teeth that hold discs etc, that I assumed the teeth were reversible, so you could take them all the way out, turn them around, and put them back in again. Is this not possible?
Oh, lol - as I continue watching, I see the "thread" on the back of the teeth has a shape to it that would prevent my suggestion (ha! me? suggestion!) working.
I'm so confused about "inside" and "outside" chuck jaws. I don't see why you can't chuck on the o.d. with the inner/tallest step, and the i.d. with the other two steps. Then flip the jaws and chuck up on the o.d. with the (now) outer./tall jaws, and on the i.d. with the other two steps. And with the "outside jaws" you said you didn't have, they're the same, except the steps are convex, instead of concave, like the ones you have now. But I have never seen an issue with using the current jaws you have, on an large or small i.d. or o.d.
Hey Andrew it has to do with the teeth on the back they are profiled to fit the scroll. Therefore two sets are needed, unless they are two piece jaws ( master, top)
Thanks Stefan. beautiful work. btw guys TOT made a set of soft jaws a while back. In case u havent seen it here it is czcams.com/video/iGw7gLNKM18/video.html The soft part is kinda cool, you get 6 jaws in one, for small parts tho.
"this is sacrilege probably"
Heheh, I cringed a bit too!
If I lived in Germany, I'd have sent Stefan my six jaws, as the body of my 3-jaw Emco has been cracked ever since I bought my used Maximat 20 years ago. Dunno if the jaws would be much use in mis-matched body though...
For someone whose first language is not English, you have a gift for turning clever English phrases: "This is sacrilege, probably...", and "Power tapping is really the civilized way to go...." You're the gold standard for precision and craftsmanship for the CZcams machining community.
New colloquial phrase:
"This meets all my chucking needs."
I can see myself using this frequently.
You could call your deburring podcast "Take the Edge Off". I'd listen to it.
yep, make it happen :)
I'll drink to that. lol
Or possibly "Taking off the edge" ?
I learn something new from you every time, I never knew about using the same pinion to achieve a greater degree of precision. Thank you Sir.
Nice insightful twist to talk about the first grinding attempt that didn't work out and how you tackled the problem. Watching your hands talking, for some reason I was reminded of This Old Tony :)
Nice work Stefan, I like your tapping method and the reason for it.
I love your videos, you're my favorite youtube machinist
Nice work as always, your attention to detail and determination to do the best job possible is a credit to you .
Great Stefan, this video came in on my mobile just when I was boarding a flight, dammm! I said, couldnt wait for the arrive at my destination to view your video.
Great as usual thanks. Noel
Perfectionist, just like myself, that's why I love to watch your videos, interesting content and I learn a lot! Thanks!
I thought you would end up grinding the jaws in the chuck with a preload. That is how I envisioned the process when you started the video. Nice work. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I really enjoyed it!
Mark
Very nice build, now I have ideas for my extra three jaw chuck. Good to know that it can be done. Thanks for sharing.
Sir, It is always a pleasure to watch a craftsman work. Your work is always outstanding and i love your sense of humor.
Keep it up and thanks for sharing.
excellent as always !
'Jaw' dropping work Stefan!
when I was doing production lathe work we used a lot of soft jaws..usually on a 14 inch chuck..we would all ways put a small relief grove at the corner radius in the back of the jaw cut to allow for debris accumulation in the jaw pocket..I had a hobby lathe at home and all ways thought about doing just what you just did...so I found this very entertaining...I am now retired and no longer do any machining...but thanks for the memories with your excellent videos
I love these project videos
Very cool. I need to do this for one of my chucks at work.
I like what you did. Nice improvement.
Nicely done soft jaws. BTW- your interview with NYC CNC was very interesting. Your shop is so compact!
I've machined a few jaws down. Jaws are consumables as far as i'm concerned. I really, really like chucks that have bolt on jaws, those are such versatile chucks regardless of how many jaws, 3 4 or more they have.
ATTENTION to detail !!, thanks for explaining/teaching . . . . great stuff.
pretty cool, I thought about doing that and making a soft jaw chuck out of one since standard 3 jaws are much cheaper than the soft jaw ones, but I was always worried about the drilling and tapping part of it. For removing the material, I figured the shaper wouldnt have too much trouble with it, lol. I bet I could make a tool bit or two out of the remnants of those jaws, lol.
Hi Stefan, it is sometimes nice to just start fresh so selling the old one will be best in the end in our opinion. Besides this made a good first mode (that we can recall) share for your new GREAT lathe, one you will now always remember later, after selling the chuck it turns out you needed so you made a new one. NICE work.
Thank you for the share, Lance & Patrick.
That chuck was in excellent condition... you got a nice machine there..
I enjoy watching your videos. Thanks,
"Satisfies all my chucking needs" 🤣
Stefan is so good he make's me want to chuck . :)
Very neat project, well done.
Nice work Stefan. If you did not check the jaw run out you would not be Stefan, that 's you and what you do.
Enjoyed and some great lessons
"So the jaws don't VeebleVobble around" - I always learn new words when I watch your videos. :-) Seriously, very good video - highly instructive. I used to own the Emco Maximat V10 which I found was not rigid enough for my work. After you have some time on your new lathe, I would be interested to hear your comments on whether it was actually an upgrade from your rebuilt Chinese lathe. The drawbar with ratchet for tapping is a great idea. Thanks for this video.
I’d listen to the podcast, I love engineering ‘war stories’.
Hi there. I’d really like a surface grinder. Any brands you would recommend to look at used?
Nice chuck conversion . Cheers .
Ever since you cut off the jaws to modify the chuck I’ve noticed more earthquakes and stronger storms across the planet. I believe you’ve meddled with the primary forces of nature and we will all pay a price.
That foam sponge drives me nuts falling apart in my hands. Thinking of trying the rubber ones Tom Lipton used in his last video if I can find them. Your new tool post is looking really sharp.
Falling apart? You mean the abrasive being shed, or the entire foam and everything falling apart? In response to the former, if that bothers you, the rubber ones create way more swarf. For the latter, I've never seen one fall apart like that.
Never thought about tapping using the draw bar
Amazing tip
Ty
Beautiful Conversion !! Just think how much those chuck jaws would cost, if you had to purchase them from the factory !!! Ingenuity and Accuracy = Innovation !
Nice job Stefan!
Steve
Awesome work...
...7:45....amazing the speed you're running, that grinder doesn't throw that brush off...
Nice job well done 👍
Came out good.
I happen to have a chuck with one set of jaws that may have to go the same way! I have stored the ratchet on the drawbar trick for future use!
Celebrating easter by chicken-tapping 😄, very nice work as always
I love watching this stuff. Any advice for someone wanting to show his projects off for the first time? I have a collection of custom fixtures for "mass producing" some aluminum parts on a Tormach mill, but the filmography stuff eludes me.
Thanks for the tip. I didn't know about this but did think about it from time to time. 21:25
What's the vertical play on the jaws when they aren't locked? Something around 20 microns?
Hi Stefan , could you not use the pieces sawn from the chuck jaws as test pieces for hardening?
Going to have to save that drawbar ratchet tapping trick for later, that could be very helpful!
Was that Emmental or Edam cheese on the bandsaw?🤔🏴
Maybe grind them with them in the chuck would improve things? I always prefer these style jaws for their versatility.
Interesting video as usual Stefan. For a geared head lathe that one is very very quiet.
I would listen to that podcast. ^.^
I had a feeling you would have issues when you referenced the bottom of the jaw teeth instead of the side grooves for grinding. No real reason for the factory to hold that dimension to high tolerance, so they don't.
Did you adjust the run out on the chucks backing plate before you started turning the soft jaws ? It looks to have plenty of wobble to it .
The chuck has no seperate back plate, the D1-3 taper is integral to the chuckbody. There is virtualy no runout on the chuckbody, not sure what happened in the video.
Chuckle. Looks like I'm not the only one who winds up using his table saw as a table.
I am for sure not using it to cut up dead threes ;)
can I ask you the make of die grinder you use please. I have been looking for something of quality for a while now.
Thats a Biax 60000rpm diegrinder.
Some cutting wax would help on the bandsaw?
It's a bit poor, but one way that I was taught to do risky powertapping was to tighten your drill chuck just enough to tap the hole, so that the tap can slip if it binds or bottoms out. Of course this may not be best to do in your shiniest Albrecht chuck, but maybe for the old Shars chuck. You probably already know this, but just in case, I thought I'd share. Cheers!
7:50 - that's a neat shot - did you attach the camera overhead to the grinder spindle head?
Probably not, unless he has a arm turning the camera around to look towards the spindle head. He could have attached it to anything, except for the grinder table.
So is this for your side gig making precision hockey pucks?
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
what software did you use for the drawing you showed?
Alibre Designer Expert
Kinda off topic but what is the music in the start of the vid called
Nice work Stefan!
ATB Robin
Thanks Robin!
You do not use coolant on the surface grinder ???
I never had to do that yet, but it give me Ideas,
Stefan,
Just wondering if there was any particular reason that you used a Ruby grinding wheel?
As usual another great video.....
Thats just a normal aluminium oxide 46 grit wheel. The color of it has nothing to say.
@@StefanGotteswinter Wow..... All mine are white or a kind of creamy color.... I have never seen a standard Al Oxide wheel in Ruby... I have a couple of Ruby colored wheels and they are an extremely hard compound.. Not sure of their composition, I will have to check next time I am in the shop... Thanks for your reply Mate.....
I am learning... why did you choose to use a smaller end mill to finish up the sides of the key on the jaws? Wouldn't the larger end mill be more rigid and thus produce a better result? Thanks for the education!
Ha. Literally the next sentence from where I paused to write that explained the relief cut on either side. Oy. :)
When you made your final measurements, maybe you should have pre-loaded a gauge pin.
Realy cool project Stefan. I'd say resale value increase. But you can't sell it now. too useful
Are you going to reharden the jaws? Or is that not a problem.
The surface the soft jaws mount against being out of flat the next time you checked them was most likely between the clearance in the jaw slot and the relationship of the jaw to the scroll thread. Or is that right word. Pie jaws while they work well are not as good as oversized or step collets.
Is weeble-wable the name of your metal band? You'd make an interesting front man!
😂😂😂
Just when I was going to bed...
Can you get derilin for 3D printer ,hope you get to use your new jaws alot great video..
Look up acetal or POM filament
Wo kaufst du deine Schleiffeilen ?
Hoffmann und Joke
If you saved your jaw halves you cut off you could drill and bolt them back on the chuck like a 6" Shar's heavy duty chuck.
I would love a deburring podcast with you telling stories!!!
i want that podcast!!
Wie nennt man denn dieses Messstativ für dem puppitast?
Great Video.
German meme "I need to true up my bottom jaws so I can mount my soft jaws true before I bore them".
Thanks for the idea of making single jaws into the bottom jaws.
Hi Stefan. Advertise sawn off jaw tops on e-bay. Collector's item! BobUK.
Very limited marked for these ;)
New subscriber here thank you nyc cnc. Sander
Podcast?
I like your king rabbit cup.
Thats the QC Rabbit ;)
You could all most make a pair of small hold down clamps out of the access you cut off.
Danke für dein Film. Ich habe mir auch deinen Beitrag in der ZB durchgelesen. Des englichen bin nicht mächtig. Ich habe auch schon seit Jahren solch ein Futter mit einem Satz Backen liegen. Nun weiß ich was ich damit machen kann.
Danke.
How many chucks could a steelchuck chuck if a steelchuck could chuck chucks???
You made me chuckle.
I bet the sound is missing from the oven segments because he has a radio next to it playing German Schlager all the time.
I started commenting on the chuck back not being parallel to the the jaw teeth...Now I'm going to comment on hardening them back up so the teeth won't wear out from the scroll. They should be at least 52HRC or harder
He ;)
I dont dare to reharden an unknown steel.
Caveat - I learned everything I "know" by watching CZcams, having never actually having the opportunity to get near a lathe or milling machine in my life, never mind actually actually use one. However it strikes me as I get to 1:51 as you mention you don't have jaws/teeth that hold discs etc, that I assumed the teeth were reversible, so you could take them all the way out, turn them around, and put them back in again. Is this not possible?
Oh, lol - as I continue watching, I see the "thread" on the back of the teeth has a shape to it that would prevent my suggestion (ha! me? suggestion!) working.
I'm so confused about "inside" and "outside" chuck jaws. I don't see why you can't chuck on the o.d. with the inner/tallest step, and the i.d. with the other two steps. Then flip the jaws and chuck up on the o.d. with the (now) outer./tall jaws, and on the i.d. with the other two steps. And with the "outside jaws" you said you didn't have, they're the same, except the steps are convex, instead of concave, like the ones you have now. But I have never seen an issue with using the current jaws you have, on an large or small i.d. or o.d.
Hey Andrew it has to do with the teeth on the back they are profiled to fit the scroll. Therefore two sets are needed, unless they are two piece jaws ( master, top)
Can someone plz tell me the name of the intro music? thanks
nice video
Smooth Rest Cafe by Emily Shepard. I was surprised.. thinking it was Vivaldi or something
czcams.com/video/qv1xxjn_D2M/video.html
Sergei Prokoviev, Montagues and Capulets, from Romeo and Juliet
Thanks Stefan. beautiful work.
btw guys TOT made a set of soft jaws a while back. In case u havent seen it here it is czcams.com/video/iGw7gLNKM18/video.html The soft part is kinda cool, you get 6 jaws in one, for small parts tho.
Yes, I have seen them, very good idea and very econommical. I might make some in that style too.
Nice tapping idea, thank you. :-)
18:11 strong brake hand :)