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Cam belt Territory diesel
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- čas přidán 18. 08. 2024
- Cam belt and fuel pump belt on the SZ territory diesel 2011 - 2016 AWD and 2WD with 2.7 diesel TDCi AJDV6
Video includes parts, removal and installation.
For workshop manuals, join FordForums and use this links:
fordforums.com...
engine front cover - page 303-01B-55 in
cambelt - page 303-01B-52
cam idler pulley - 303-01B-51
Part numbers:
Cam belt
195 teeth x 30 mm wide HT (high tenacity tooth form)
Ford part no. 9X2Q6K288BA - Dayco 941041
Tensioner for cam belt
Ford part no. 9X2Q6K254BB - Dayco ATB2771
Auxiliary belt 6PK1977
I replaced mine with a Dayco 6PK1980
Pump belt
82 teeth x 20 mm wide HT
Ford part no. 7H2Q6K288DA - Dayco 941040
Tensioner pump belt
Ford part no. 7H2Q6K254AA - Dayco ATB1012
Kits (Australia NZ)
KTBA278 - cam kit tensioner & idlers
KTBA288 - cam belt + pump belt kit
Kits (Europe)
I ordered kits from spareto.com. Various kits to chose from, including:
KTB694 - cam belt and tensioner
KTB688 - pump belt and tensioner
KTB775 - full kit
Many other brands available and those Ford part numbers should link to equivalents.
The only kit I could find that includes the tensioner bolt may not be compatible (slightly different size tensioner): KTB1193
Top video, followed the same steps myself last year after watching a guy in the uk do it on a discovery. Thanks for your effort to make this. Lots of territory owners will appreciate.
Awesome how to video, your a legend fella 👍
Hey mate, thank you heaps for your great video. Referenced it heavily doing the timing belt and water pump on my father’s 2012 SZ. Good step by step and lots info including torque settings etc. Cheers 👍
Awesome vid mate, well done.
Great video, great tips and good pace Tim. Gave me a lot of confidence I can do this successfully on an SZ Terry even though Ive changed a few timing belts before on other vehicles over the years.
Finally a full video showing the easy way!
Great video, wish I saw this few weeks earlier saving myself disconnecting few extra coolant hoses. Managed to do the HP belt only with engine cover off, no need to touch the fuel line (maybe I have small hands).
The coolant does need replacing sooner than the cambelt, so no loss there.
The perfect build for doing the pump belt would be arms about 5 feet long and tiny hands. haha
Good video. FYI Ford dealers currently charge $3295 for what you did. ($2000 for the Cam Belt replacement, and $1295 for the fuel pump belt)
Jeepez! That's a big bill.
Luckily I'm retired and have been working on mine off and on for 2 weeks, also doing the fuel pump belt.
This is what ive been looking for, thankyou for a great vid Thomas. What sort of timeframe did you do this in? Did you only replace 1x pulley for cam belt ? Did you use the origianl bolt ? or does the pulley come with new one? ohh i see the pulleys are new
@roderad Replaced 2 pulleys plus tensioner. I could not find a kit that included bolts. Timeframe - long time with all the extra cross checks and video light repositioning I do.
@@thomaswilding8818 would 2 days like over a weekend be enough you think ? Was it fairly easy to acces the rear of engine for the fuel pump belt and cutting it?
Awesome work and thanks for doing the video. One question. In most of the videos they removed the starter motor to lock up the crankshaft. Your way of marking the camshaft is much easier. If the camshaft does move and no longer aligns, can it be simly realigned ?
@roderad Yes, in a weekend, if you have all the parts and tools needed on hand. For sure. And can do the pump belt separately.
@nunika1975 Reallign - I expect so. Complication would be if you accidentally undid the crank bolt when trying to re time it. If you don't pin the cams, guaranteed the cams will move on their own simply under valve spring tension. Not so with the crankshaft - must not be on a compression stroke.
Planning to buy 2015 territory tdci, is that good car? Easy to fix?
@leon3758 I'm putting together a buying guide. Probably a week away. Check cambelt done, check low pressure pump works, check both egr replaced, check 4 matching tyres. Otherwise budget for doing those.
What would you do if the crank had moved?
Turn it back. The big concern would be if built up compression turned the motor. Doesn't seem to be the case. Valve springs I'm sure WOULD move the cam angle if you released belt tensioner without first pinning it in place.
I did this same job and followed all the same steps. I told myself before I started if I wasn't confident that the timing was the same after the belt replacement I would order the flywheel tool and lock in timing for top and bottom to be safe before starting the engine again. Marking the crank with some nail polish was the way to go and after two rotations timing was still spot on as the pins slipped in and the mark matched up no worries so good to go.