Signature solar is a great source for solar panels and batteries ($50 off $500 site wide Coupon Code December only "EVERYDAYDAVE" ): signaturesolar.com/?ref=SALE
You put so…. So…. SO much work into this! Yeah you built an insanely cool solar generator but….. then you also made this high quality video, contacted affiliates for discounts, put every link in the description, gave us great chapters… Thank you for this. You did the community a serious solid with this one.
This is the place to come for many reasons. Great explanation of various DIY systems vs store bought. Excellent high quality videos. The best I’ve seen!
I dont even have kids, but if i did, i would want my son to be as sharp and knowledgeable as yours appeared to be during the demonstration. Quite adept. Good job pops!
This has to one of the best DIY 12V off Grid Solar System videos out there to date. In depth explanations and choices of equipment to build what you need. A bonus of tip to boot. Thanks.⚡
This is the most detailed, instructive and honest DIY solar generator build video explaining cost, performance and options. Fantastic video Dave, Thanks a lot!😂
I know right what a great video. Very impressive gosh it's 7 months old haha and I'm just seeing it I really like the heavy duty. I wish I could make them and sell them to people. I don't know if that would be possible. Considering the blue Eddie would be easier and less expensive for them well I might build me a portable.
@@VinceBadovinatz88Money wise buying bluetti is better, but if it breaks you’re sol, so making your own system is better long-term, because can be repaired. I might make my own so I can have spare components if/when it breaks.
0404’24/0131h 🇺🇸 Thank you, Dave and Mr. Jordan. Lot of effort, thinking and planning was done to prepare such a lengthy test procedure. The running commentary was exemplary, a relentless flow of information and knowledge was put into it, too. That small table and the surroundings were like a Lab. Thank you Junior, for your efforts are well noted and the lecture was flawless. Your physics Professor might be proud of you along with Daddy. Cheers n regards.
this is the video i have been looking for. many vids show how to build a solar package but not what it will run. or what you can run but not how to build it. i can finally put all the pieces together in my head. I finally understand what each piece represents so it is no longer an abstract concept. thanks man
This was the best DIY video I've seen. I especially like how it was tested on various tools. I'd love to do a DIY, but for the cost and my needs, I just may go with an already built system. I plan on just using it for camping, and when I do lose power, use this system for a freezer and a refrigerator. This way, I'm not constantly running the gas generator. I really appreciate you putting a well thought out and detailed video.
Thank you - someone putting together a practical system ;-) Charge controllers usually have a heat sink that's designed for vertical operation. Even when testing, you should have the controller vertical for proper convection airflow. If not, you need some serious air movement - probably a minimum of 150-200CFM from a fan that matches the width of the heatsink. If not adequately cooled, good controllers usually have thermal rollback or shutdown when it gets too hot.
What an excellent job! Research, planning, presentation, all very well executed! I have watched hundreds of very good videos but this was just excellent! Link list is great! Thank you for taking the time and effort! Well done!
Given the very low internal resistance of LFP batteries, would suggest to your viewers replacing the breaker to the inverter with something that has a much higher AIC rating then the breaker shown. Class-T fuse would be a safe choice. In the event of a short, that breaker will melt itself closed, and a fire risk is highly likely. For all inverter feeds from an LFP battery, we recommend a service disconnect switch, and a Class-T fuse no longer than 7" from the LFP battery.
Great summary Dave for assortment of basic yet capable starter options. I survived hurricane Sandy for 7 days, on a 1500W inverter tethered off the car, with a 10 mo old baby at home. I think the car / inverter setup has BIG advantages over a small generator setup too! I even saved someone with the same inverter that had no power with a sump pump.... You can run minimum energy "quietly" overnight still having essentials running - and don't have cans and cans of gasoline! Would like to hear your opinion of PURE SINEWAVE vs SQUAREWAVE inverters - like what a Sqr Wave wrecks? GREAT CONTENT for those scouts who want to "be prepared", while maybe learning something along the way (with their kids to boot) ! ! ! 👍👍
Also you raised a child into a competent scientist young man, maybe patterned a littlebit after our host. Tremendous information that you provided. This was a great explanation that made for a great structured conversation amongst us hopeful hobbyists. You settle some important questions and misunderstandings. The pace of information was about perfect for us wanna be campers.
Excellent video. But, anyone planning one of these has to consider the time, tools and competence it takes to put these systems together, plus the compactness/cleanliness of a pre-made system. Even the cost is deceiving: as of 5-2-24 the Bluetti AC200P, in the video for $1,600, is on sale for $1,100! These standalones are always going on sale. The Anker C1000 with 1800 watts/1056 W hours, 600W Solar charge is $630. The Pecron E1500LFP with 2200 watts, 1536 W hours, 800W Solar charging & a 30 watt output is $800. All of them have app control via your phone, UPS and are expandable. Just saw the Pecron 2000LFP 2000W, 1920Wh, 1200W max solar, wireless charging (phone) for $850!
Excellent video. Some specific ideas to consider are: pre-charging the capacitors in the inverter prior to, securing the PV cable down so they do not get pulled out or stress the terminals. I use a battery disconnect in addition to breakers. Do not take my comments as criticism or complaints. Just throwing in some ideas!
Awesome info! Another advantage of the self assembled, is that if one aspect off the system stops working, it can be easily replaced or upgraded as you go.Thanks.
Just saw your video, great job and very informative. Personally I would go with the EcoFlow Delta 2. It has a 1800W inverter with a 1000 watt capacity battery. It powered my microwave, full size residential fridge, my 15amp miter saw without slowing down and extremely portable ...cost during Black Friday or other sales $649. I bought 2 for camping and around the house projects , runs my air compressors and power washers too.
Yes the EcoFlow Delta 2 is also a good choice and similar comparison: us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-2-portable-power-station?variant=40569176326217&aff=632
Wow, your link to diagrams and equipment suppliers and providing your viewers with several easy and affordable options is above and beyond. I like the DIY systems as they can be scaled (depending) and you can service it yourself if needed. I do have all-in-one systems by EcoFlow and Bluetti. I built a 2400w and a 4800w DIY. Love them all. I subbed and hit the bell.
I bought my first solar generator exactly 30 years ago from CC Crane Co. it was in a ammo box and came with a small solar panel. I’ve since made a few myself. My favorite one was a rolling one on a large garden cart. It was designed to help the farmer or gardener. It had a car stereo, phone charging, power for water pump, and power for anything needed. It also had room to place tools and materials. I’m going to build that has electric propulsion and can tow another cart full of mulch, gravel, or whatever. A lot of work can get done by small electric equipment. Heavy tractors and excavators aren’t always needed and if one has this equipment it’s tempting to use it for jobs where it’s not really needed.
I have an outside system that is self build. Indoor I use echoflow solar generators. The outside system are solar panels, victron mppt's and a lifepo4 battery with a heatmat. Inside are portable ecoflow solargenerators that are charged by night from AC and charged by day from solar thru the load port of one of the Victron mppt's when voltage of outside battery is high enough. This system has build in flexibility and backup functionality. From here I can expand at the places where I need to.
On an extreme budget, try the Vtoman 600x. It probably won't run that 1700w espresso, but it should run most things under 1000w if they can function at 600w. A lifesaver during blackouts on the cheap.
Bravo! C'est de loin une des meilleures vidéos explicative que j'ai visionnée sur un système fait maison, avec des explications claires et précises, vous avez un nouvel abonné.
The BMS on many batteries can go over specifications for a short amount of time, but be aware that many of these actually rely on the temperature relay cutting off discharge when the cells get too warm. A quality BMS will actually regulate the amperage instead of relying on a cheap relay that could very easily fail.
I built a system like this and will make some adjustments to the wiring of the inverter to charge controller. Also was wanting to build a 5k eg4 48v battery with eg4 all in one or growatt 3000 all in one and looks like the price of about $2500. Love the way you add your findings to your systems you build. Your son seems sharp, get him to help more often!
Wow! Extremely well done and informative video, sir. I have been experimenting with an almost identical setup and I use a resistor when first connecting the inverter to the battery, but I had NO idea that the in-rush of current into the inverter was that high when first powered on!
I think this system works well with light resistive loads BUT forget inductive loads and he mentions this at the end, but I doubt this setup will meet the critical test of life cycle and longevity. test with frequent cycling at different harmonics.
Thanks for making common sense out solar hook up and mainly safety you point out so well. Great content and video. Just one request. Can you show how to assemble a 3000 or 5000 watt inverter 12v system please.
A 5000W inverter with 12V would require some very large cables. Why not switch to 48V? You can still get 12V like I show in this video: czcams.com/video/xsZzlF_NA6E/video.html
@@ProjectsWithDave Because it's what I have and I want to use it. I just want to know what it would take to make a system like it to work? If I need larger cables than the one's it came with, which were I think a set of 4awg. I would get larger or maybe double up my wiring, if that's posssible.
We had a ice storm back in the 1990s. Back in those days the cable system could work if you put power to it. I make do with a Mercedes battery on a skateboard. 500 watt inverter. I took the battery out to the car to charge it. If it has lasted longer than a week I probably would have hooked up an alternator to A 6 horsepower motor.
You can tap battery banks to get 24 V or even 48 V etc. and if you have 12 V devices you can run special taps off the battery banks to use 12 V. Take a look at golf carts. They have a lot of batteries to have high voltage for the motors, but then they’re tapped at 12 V for the lights.
Hi! It is easier to produce 110V from 12V than 230V, here in Hungary we have a more difficult task because twice as much stuff is needed to implement an off-grid Solar System. But I'm still listening and trying to get some ideas from others. Thanks for the idea, a concise and meaningful solution.
Great stuff! Thrilled that you covered the inrush current on the inverter. I didn't really consider that when I built my own solar generator. I've got a 600 watt Giandel inverter, and I haven't had an issue with the Daly BMS. I'll dig into the inrush current limits on the Daly BMS to see if I can expand without replacing my BMS. Cheers!
I didn't expect it to be that high either. I knew there would be when the batteries were first connected, but I didn't expect another jump when the unit was turned on.
Quality channel with correct information. It's rare to see these days. :) I was especially impressed by Jordan's knowledge. One thing you may want to do, is to have a 'precharge' breaker, where you mount the resistor in the system, so you can flick on the precharge first, then when the capacitors are charged, you can flick on the other breaker and flick off the precharge breaker. To see if the capacitors have been precharged, you could likely just add a LED and a resistor over the power-resistor; when the LED turns off, the capacitors would be charged. I'm also happy you recommend the LiFePO4 batteries; they're (currently) the best and safest of the affordable battery types available. Edit: It may be a good idea to write the "in-order checklist" on the device, so you never forget the steps for turning it on / off.
@@ProjectsWithDave - I forgot to mention that a good resistor value for a LED connected to 12V would be 1K Ohm or above. It might be necessary to create a 'resistor ladder' to be able to adjust when the LED should turn off, though. If you're lucky, it'll just work with the 1K in series with the LED. The 1K resistor can be any 0.25Watt you have laying around.
Wow, just wow! Great video. Needed more power at my woodshop and was going to cost thousands to run new cables. Your solution is just what I needed. Will be using your links.
Very nice video. Thanks for testing the 1000 watt Renogy inverter as i just bought one a few weeks now and so i don't have to test it because you already did so. Greetings from Jamaica.
You can use a resistor to pre-charge inverter by keeping it installed with a momentary switch, this is to charge capacitors before switching inverter on without the spike.
Nice video. Your Son's input though short was very helpful, especially about advantage of running higher DC voltage battery banks. Of course that would more expensive sense you would need additional batteries wire in series to get a 24 volt system. Thank you for sharing.
Informative video but commenting to say: Be careful microwaving water. When microwaving it can actually superheat the water without appearing to boil. When this happens water can become hotter than its boiling point without actually boiling, and when disturbed it can rapidly boil, steam, and explode. If you keep doing it put a wooden spoon or something in the water to allow the bubbles to form allowing it to boil.
Cool overview. The battery caught my eye because I purchased the same battery to run my Renogy 3000W portable battery. Works great. I should install a 150A breaker at the battery for safety. Thanks for sharing.
Good video and lots of useful information. I live in the UK and a EB55 costs £499 and EB70 at £699 (coupon gets £80 off this price). I ordered a EB55 as it offers 400W dual charging which the EB70 doesn't and only 300W DIFFERENCE IN ac INVERTER OUTPUT. Building a similar unit would cost £200 more than buying one. I am adding two 12V 36Ah batteries so can add 922Wh to the DC input while charging with solar or charging batteries. Solar panels cost £400 for four and 2 batteries cost £252. DC charger cost £50 and EPEVER solar charger cost £80 for a 20A unit. Also have a 600W pure sine wave inverter and an older 1000W pure sine wave inverter as well as a 12V to 24V step up converter. Complete system costs around £1500 including the inverters so 2 systems can be run at the same time independently and charged individually.
@@ProjectsWithDave Yes but you need a buck converter to use the 25 to 28V input as it will not accept just 2 batteries connected in series ( about 26 volts) . I think it demands 10A but sees a higher current and will not switch the charging on. It needs a regulated input.
I have always liked your videos but I do have a few small recommendations you may want to use for your next build like this. Code requires you have a double pole breaker between the solar panels and charge controller. You have to be able to simultaneously disconnect both the positive and negative connectors at the same time. Typically I use a 63amp Din Rail mini-breaker. The small automotive breakers don't break the connections on both poles and in a short circuit event the current could jump the negative conductor. Also you need to use fine strand flexible copper wire between the inverter and charge controller. You used what looked like THHN coarse stranded copper which can cause higher resistance and heat and it is not flexible which is harder to work with. Also many charge controller companies recommend against course strand wire. I believe bougeRV recommends against it as well. I would recommend against stacking connections on the inverter and using bus bars. You should also use either an ANL fuse or T-Class fuse between the battery and inverter (Bus bars). The breakers you chose are notoriously unreliable in high current systems. Although for such a small system they should be ok. That being said. I love the videos you do so keep up the great work.
Thanks for the feedback. The Din Rail mini-breakers are a much better choice. I added that note to my parts breakdown on my website: projectswithdave.com/12v-1500w-diy-solar-generator/
Thanks for the education. Answered many question. I’m building a system which which consist of a 160 watt solar panel with a Victron 75/15. I haven’t determine what battery to use. Probably a power queen 12 volt 100 or 200 ah. This is for camping use in a van and charging electric bikes. I think a 500 watt inverter would be enough for these purposes. Thanks again for the information.
Hi Dave. Nice comprehensive video. I would have also mentioned an off grid charging option using the charging brick and a small portable generator. I built a power cart (Wen brand utility cart) using three 200 amp Power Queen Plus LiFePo's batteries (7950 WH capacity total) coupled with a 3000 watt pure sine inverter. Each battery having it's own individual ON/OFF switch. However I do not intend on paralleling them.
You should have far more subscribers, than you do. Keep up the great presentations, & you will. Thanks. You now have 1 more. I built an all-in-one ~1.6Kwh Lithium-ion 12VDC system, incorporating an internal 1000w inverter. A little undersized, but in New Zealand, we don't have the luxury of great product diversity, & it was the only one I could find, that would fit into the toollbox, I used as my backup power supply case. A coupe of issues I experience are: -the Victron 75/15 MPPT solar charge controller, mis-reads the battery voltage, on the device app, so I have to charge at a higher voltage, than the app reads. I use a connected Cellmeter 7 balancer (voltage has been confirmed with a multimeter) to manually check the battery voltage, whilst charging. -my inverter's (Chinese one. Programmable inverters, in NZ, cost an arm, & 2 legs!) display mis-reads the battery voltage by ~0.5VDC. Not ideal. But the seller adjusted the input voltage resistor, so it reads a similar offset voltage. So the inverter does not shut down, with too much usable battery voltage left. The only appliance that does not work, is my water pump, due to the inrush voltage, on the undersized inverter. Not really a biggie, now we aren't having power cuts every other week, like we used to. Am designing 2 portable lithium-ion batteries, that can be easily connected in series/parallel, depending on the immediate needs. May be used as a permanent solution, for my pump?
Thanks for the feedback. A 1000W inverter is good for an entry level backup, but I've found 2,000W is really the minimum if you want to manage any significant appliance. If you use a meter with inrush capability you can identify the threshold you need to achieve in order to run your pump. Also, you can look into some startup capacitors that can reduce the surge load for you. I added one to my heat pump.
One thing I’d like to say is if you built a diy at similar capacity and similar inverter you would likely be about the same costs based on what you posted. I personally like having the diy because I can expand or modify my system where you can’t change the Bluetti at all. But it’s a good compare of easy to find parts vs a prebuilt solar generator even though it’s a little undersized to the diy. Larger. 1200w prebuilt are significantly more money the last time I looked.
It all depends on what you need. Flexibility and expandability, or simple and easy. The cost continually jumps all over the place, but this at lest gives you an idea of where you will land.
Nice setup. Only one glaring flaw. After spending more than 23 years in the inverter repair industry, I would highly recommend spending a little extra money and investing in a low frequency, transformer based inverter instead of that low cost, low surge, high frequency, transformerless inverter. High frequency, transformerless inverters are not designed for powering high inductance loads such as microwave ovens, power tools or refrigerators and can be damaged or have their life considerably shortened when powering inductive loads. The problem is low cost MOSFETs that are used in these inverters that are far more sensitive to the surges that are required by these inductive loads. When powering inductive loads, you'll typically only get a year or less worth of life from a high frequency inverter whereas a low frequency inverter will typically yield 10 years or more before needing service.
Thanks, that's a good reminder. I can tell you my low frequency Victron inverters are way better at powering inductive loads. Here is one setup I installed and tested: czcams.com/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/video.html
Great review. I have built many inverter projects and did not know they had such high inrush currents on startup. The thing that I would add to any home built unit is some kind of battery monitor that has a shunt and the ability to show battery charge percentage. I like the Renogy units. Knowing what state of charge you have in the battery is important. Without being able to monitor it is like driving a car without a working gas gauge. It leaves you guessing all the time and it can quit unexpectedly. Volt meters are poor ways to measure LFP battery state of charge.
This was great video. Makes me think investing in Ego products is best fit for me. I’m eyeing that 12 amp hour new push mower for 2023 then just get their Nexus power station.
I havent watched full video but just quickly (based on experience) ---> those off the shelf power stations are insanely inefficient ...the inbuilt invertors leak so much power....I had a top end ecoflow but returned it....after many tests and application uses I was getting ~55-60% of the claimed energy (kWh or Ah) .....this was via the 240v inverter..... power usage via the 12V sockets wasnt much better...i returned the product (what a sh*t-fight that was).....building your own unit is a different beast.....you build to out specific needs, you learn so much and gain invaluable knowledge and you can get WAYYY more battery and component value for the same amount of dollars....its not all hate but when I pay $1500 for a product and it deliveres 60% of claimed benefits then that to me is a total fail / rip off.
Excellent. I have a 1000, and 1500 watt inverter. I’m using 2 of the LIFEP04 batteries. I’m thinking I need a 2000 watt inverter especially since in an emergency outage I’m looking at running a full size fridge. Everything else I have covered. Full sized fridge and freezer for at least 24 hrs.
A 2000W inverter is a good size for emergency backup, it can run virtually any 120V appliance in your home, and it can run multiple small loads at once.
I would at least tin the wire with solder for the crimped ends. Best way is to solder the loop terminals on. If you don't do one or the other the connections will loosen with use and heat cycles. Loose connections are a potential loss of efficiency and or melt down. Great ideas for portable power. I'm going to build one for my pontoon boat and back up in emergency situation such as tyrannical power grid sabotage. Alot of punch, for not a bunch!
Another solution is to use a 48v or 24v system. The increased voltage will correspondingly reduce the amps needed by the inverter. The other components just need to match the battery voltage.
Thank you for this video. I'm one that debates whether or not to have a 12, 24 or 48 volt system for an inverter system to power my ac system in the radio shack. My radios use 12 volts. I may just use two different systems, a 12 volt for the radios and a 24 or 48v system for the ac system. From my limited understanding, you can take 12 volt from a 24 or 48 volt system if you wire correctly.
I don't really subscribe much anymore as I have overdosed on CZcams videos lol. This is a great video on a Will Prowse level. That precharge resistor I kinda want to install an Altronix time delay relay to automate the process and add consistency. Especially for mobile builds that would see repetitive setups. I'm looking forward to future videos. Nice work. 👍
Thanks, great video. Times they are a changin' . Bluetti 270p was just $1199 this past week. May come down lower soon. I found the KAIWEETS HT208D Inrush Clamp Meter on ebay for $56 w tax. shipped
Thank you for the very detail oriented video, greatly appreciated!!!! Looking for something for emergency use when power goes down, you gave me many options, thanks again! Looks like a fun project for me and my 13 Yr old son but at a much smaller scale….Lol
Excellent stream thank you so much for this, I'm from UK Manchester so may not get the same products, but your precise information to the details will give me a head start thank you so very much
I do believe the proper circuit wiring is Solar Charge Controller > Battery > Inverter > Load What reason would you wire the inverter before the battery?
That's correct, the standard method would use a buss bar to connect the 3 components. This setup is simply using the inverter posts in place of the buss bar to reduce complexity and cost. Setting it up this way does have some limitations.
I'm not sure why you have the charge controller hooked up to the inverter. If you were to turn off the battery breaker , that would effectively keep the charge controller from charging the battery . Plus that would be the same as having panel input with no place for the output to go, potentially damaging the controller. The charge controller should be hooked up to the battery , that way you still have the option to charge the battery with the battery breaker turned off. If you don't want to charge the battery just turn off the input breaker to the controller.
I like the lower output voltage. Lights will last much longer at reduced voltage. If i was to run an AC unit or well pimp i would want 120 volts. But probably everything will be ok as is. Thanks for posting i would hope the charge controller would have the order of power up. Thanks for posting the power up sequence. 73
Great video. I have never seen a charge controller connected to the invertor. The MPPT will give out up to 14.6 volts which may cause an over voltage error depending on the invertor.
I assume you are concerned for a condition where the battery is disconnected and only the charge controller is connected to the inverter? Yes, I should probably have mentioned it's not meant to be run that way. The setup relies on the battery to balance the load/supply to the inverter. Thanks!
In this setup, having the charge controller connected directly to the inverter should not be a problem as most inverters have a maximum input voltage greater than 15 volts, most I have seen are 15.5 and some up to 16 volts.
Hi Dave I sorted the dual DC charging on the EB55. You can use solar and a battery to charge the EB55 so NO AC power brick needed. You need a DC to DC converter with constant current and constant voltage. I used a step down one from Amazon (it will need extra cooling) and fine tuned the DC volts to 25.2V and 7.5A. EB55 shows about 180W charging. Power was from two 12.8V 36Ah batteries. It passes the 7.5A straight through from the battery to the EB55.
Signature solar is a great source for solar panels and batteries ($50 off $500 site wide Coupon Code December only "EVERYDAYDAVE" ): signaturesolar.com/?ref=SALE
😢how. Much. to. Ship. To. Jaami aica
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@@volneymcdove3515
You put so…. So…. SO much work into this! Yeah you built an insanely cool solar generator but….. then you also made this high quality video, contacted affiliates for discounts, put every link in the description, gave us great chapters… Thank you for this. You did the community a serious solid with this one.
He reminds me of old school CZcams. This is why we come to the internet. Thank you Dave, you are a gem. subbed.
Agreed
Finally someone showing people how to index stuff. It makes a huge difference on build quality.
I like this guy. He just goes all out and hooks up the Keurig and says 1700 watts? I'm OG baby. We're doing this
This is the place to come for many reasons. Great explanation of various DIY systems vs store bought. Excellent high quality videos. The best I’ve seen!
Thank you very much!
I dont even have kids, but if i did, i would want my son to be as sharp and knowledgeable as yours appeared to be during the demonstration.
Quite adept. Good job pops!
This has to one of the best DIY 12V off Grid Solar System videos out there to date. In depth explanations and choices of equipment to build what you need. A bonus of tip to boot. Thanks.⚡
Wow, thanks!
I agree
Me too. And the sequence of power up is a bonus. 73@@alexjones2173
This is the most detailed, instructive and honest DIY solar generator build video explaining cost, performance and options. Fantastic video Dave, Thanks a lot!😂
Wow, thanks!
Great job!!!thanks
I know right what a great video. Very impressive gosh it's 7 months old haha and I'm just seeing it I really like the heavy duty. I wish I could make them and sell them to people. I don't know if that would be possible. Considering the blue Eddie would be easier and less expensive for them well I might build me a portable.
Agreed
@@VinceBadovinatz88Money wise buying bluetti is better, but if it breaks you’re sol, so making your own system is better long-term, because can be repaired. I might make my own so I can have spare components if/when it breaks.
Ps: We do like all the effort you go through to scientifically test your projects .!!
Great video. I am building one as we speak. 230ah, inverter, shunt. Simple power source with a fuel guage.
Nice!
0404’24/0131h 🇺🇸 Thank you, Dave and Mr. Jordan. Lot of effort, thinking and planning was done to prepare such a lengthy test procedure. The running commentary was exemplary, a relentless flow of information and knowledge was put into it, too. That small table and the surroundings were like a Lab. Thank you Junior, for your efforts are well noted and the lecture was flawless. Your physics Professor might be proud of you along with Daddy. Cheers n regards.
this is the video i have been looking for. many vids show how to build a solar package but not what it will run. or what you can run but not how to build it. i can finally put all the pieces together in my head. I finally understand what each piece represents so it is no longer an abstract concept. thanks man
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
I learned alot , great to see father and son involved in a project . Thanks for sharing 🙂
This was the best DIY video I've seen. I especially like how it was tested on various tools. I'd love to do a DIY, but for the cost and my needs, I just may go with an already built system. I plan on just using it for camping, and when I do lose power, use this system for a freezer and a refrigerator. This way, I'm not constantly running the gas generator. I really appreciate you putting a well thought out and detailed video.
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful!
Thank you - someone putting together a practical system ;-)
Charge controllers usually have a heat sink that's designed for vertical operation. Even when testing, you should have the controller vertical for proper convection airflow. If not, you need some serious air movement - probably a minimum of 150-200CFM from a fan that matches the width of the heatsink. If not adequately cooled, good controllers usually have thermal rollback or shutdown when it gets too hot.
Thanks! Yes, you are right, vertical mounting is the best for heat dissipation.
This is the best DIY solar setup video online!!!🤠
Glad it was helpful!
What an excellent job! Research, planning, presentation, all very well executed! I have watched hundreds of very good videos but this was just excellent! Link list is great! Thank you for taking the time and effort! Well done!
Thanks! I appreciate the encouragement!
Great job guys. You represent some of the best of CZcams
Thanks!
This is what I needed. Much like a desktop computer versus a laptop…. You’re future proof.
Given the very low internal resistance of LFP batteries, would suggest to your viewers replacing the breaker to the inverter with something that has a much higher AIC rating then the breaker shown. Class-T fuse would be a safe choice. In the event of a short, that breaker will melt itself closed, and a fire risk is highly likely. For all inverter feeds from an LFP battery, we recommend a service disconnect switch, and a Class-T fuse no longer than 7" from the LFP battery.
Great summary Dave for assortment of basic yet capable starter options. I survived hurricane Sandy for 7 days, on a 1500W inverter tethered off the car, with a 10 mo old baby at home. I think the car / inverter setup has BIG advantages over a small generator setup too! I even saved someone with the same inverter that had no power with a sump pump.... You can run minimum energy "quietly" overnight still having essentials running - and don't have cans and cans of gasoline! Would like to hear your opinion of PURE SINEWAVE vs SQUAREWAVE inverters - like what a Sqr Wave wrecks? GREAT CONTENT for those scouts who want to "be prepared", while maybe learning something along the way (with their kids to boot) ! ! ! 👍👍
Also you raised a child into a competent scientist young man, maybe patterned a littlebit after our host. Tremendous information that you provided. This was a great explanation that made for a great structured conversation amongst us hopeful hobbyists. You settle some important questions and misunderstandings. The pace of information was about perfect for us wanna be campers.
Excellent video. But, anyone planning one of these has to consider the time, tools and competence it takes to put these systems together, plus the compactness/cleanliness of a pre-made system. Even the cost is deceiving: as of 5-2-24 the Bluetti AC200P, in the video for $1,600, is on sale for $1,100! These standalones are always going on sale. The Anker C1000 with 1800 watts/1056 W hours, 600W Solar charge is $630. The Pecron E1500LFP with 2200 watts, 1536 W hours, 800W Solar charging & a 30 watt output is $800. All of them have app control via your phone, UPS and are expandable. Just saw the Pecron 2000LFP 2000W, 1920Wh, 1200W max solar, wireless charging (phone) for $850!
It is hard to beat the utility, cost and convenience of the smaller all in one units.
I live in my van most times and have the ultimate lithium battery setup and inverter charger and generator and water storage all in my 98 Ford e250
Excellent video. Some specific ideas to consider are: pre-charging the capacitors in the inverter prior to, securing the PV cable down so they do not get pulled out or stress the terminals. I use a battery disconnect in addition to breakers.
Do not take my comments as criticism or complaints. Just throwing in some ideas!
Awesome info! Another advantage of the self assembled, is that if one aspect off the system stops working, it can be easily replaced or upgraded as you go.Thanks.
Yes, and you can modify as your needs change over time.
Just saw your video, great job and very informative. Personally I would go with the EcoFlow Delta 2. It has a 1800W inverter with a 1000 watt capacity battery. It powered my microwave, full size residential fridge, my 15amp miter saw without slowing down and extremely portable ...cost during Black Friday or other sales $649. I bought 2 for camping and around the house projects , runs my air compressors and power washers too.
Yes the EcoFlow Delta 2 is also a good choice and similar comparison: us.ecoflow.com/products/delta-2-portable-power-station?variant=40569176326217&aff=632
😂😂😂, Jordan is a genius, I don't know much about this I live in Jamaica W.I the Caribbean and am looking to build one
Jordan likes electricity, he is now working towards his PhD in Electrical Engineering.
Wow, your link to diagrams and equipment suppliers and providing your viewers with several easy and affordable options is above and beyond. I like the DIY systems as they can be scaled (depending) and you can service it yourself if needed. I do have all-in-one systems by EcoFlow and Bluetti. I built a 2400w and a 4800w DIY. Love them all.
I subbed and hit the bell.
Nice on the builds
great info, and yes, 48V battery + inverter is the best way to go
I bought my first solar generator exactly 30 years ago from CC Crane Co. it was in a ammo box and came with a small solar panel. I’ve since made a few myself. My favorite one was a rolling one on a large garden cart. It was designed to help the farmer or gardener. It had a car stereo, phone charging, power for water pump, and power for anything needed. It also had room to place tools and materials. I’m going to build that has electric propulsion and can tow another cart full of mulch, gravel, or whatever. A lot of work can get done by small electric equipment. Heavy tractors and excavators aren’t always needed and if one has this equipment it’s tempting to use it for jobs where it’s not really needed.
Finely, someone explained why there are battery's over 12V, and why you may want a higher voltage battery. Thank You. 👍👍
Thanks! Here is more on the topic: czcams.com/video/xsZzlF_NA6E/video.html
I have an outside system that is self build. Indoor I use echoflow solar generators.
The outside system are solar panels, victron mppt's and a lifepo4 battery with a heatmat.
Inside are portable ecoflow solargenerators that are charged by night from AC and charged by day from solar thru the load port of one of the Victron mppt's when voltage of outside battery is high enough.
This system has build in flexibility and backup functionality. From here I can expand at the places where I need to.
On an extreme budget, try the Vtoman 600x. It probably won't run that 1700w espresso, but it should run most things under 1000w if they can function at 600w. A lifesaver during blackouts on the cheap.
Bravo! C'est de loin une des meilleures vidéos explicative que j'ai visionnée sur un système fait maison, avec des explications claires et précises, vous avez un nouvel abonné.
I like the comparison. Been thinking about this for sometime now. Well done
Your videos are amazing. Thanks for teaching this stuff to people!
Awesome video!!! straight to the point. No bullshit like the others. We need more guys like you!! thank you!!
The BMS on many batteries can go over specifications for a short amount of time, but be aware that many of these actually rely on the temperature relay cutting off discharge when the cells get too warm. A quality BMS will actually regulate the amperage instead of relying on a cheap relay that could very easily fail.
I built a system like this and will make some adjustments to the wiring of the inverter to charge controller. Also was wanting to build a 5k eg4 48v battery with eg4 all in one or growatt 3000 all in one and looks like the price of about $2500. Love the way you add your findings to your systems you build. Your son seems sharp, get him to help more often!
Thanks! I get my kids involved as much as I can. 😀
Wow! Extremely well done and informative video, sir. I have been experimenting with an almost identical setup and I use a resistor when first connecting the inverter to the battery, but I had NO idea that the in-rush of current into the inverter was that high when first powered on!
Glad it was helpful!
I think this system works well with light resistive loads BUT forget inductive loads and he mentions this at the end, but I doubt this setup will meet the critical test of life cycle and longevity. test with frequent cycling at different harmonics.
@dol3980 how did you set up your system differently? Please
Your son needs his own channel!
That's what I told him! : )
EXTREMELY COOL video. A big question in my mind has always been AIO units vs DIY, and this is the first build I've seen someone make a portable DIY!
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful.
Thanks for making common sense out solar hook up and mainly safety you point out so well. Great content and video. Just one request. Can you show how to assemble a 3000 or 5000 watt inverter 12v system please.
A 5000W inverter with 12V would require some very large cables. Why not switch to 48V? You can still get 12V like I show in this video: czcams.com/video/xsZzlF_NA6E/video.html
@@ProjectsWithDave Because it's what I have and I want to use it. I just want to know what it would take to make a system like it to work? If I need larger cables than the one's it came with, which were I think a set of 4awg. I would get larger or maybe double up my wiring, if that's posssible.
We had a ice storm back in the 1990s. Back in those days the cable system could work if you put power to it. I make do with a Mercedes battery on a skateboard. 500 watt inverter. I took the battery out to the car to charge it. If it has lasted longer than a week I probably would have hooked up an alternator to A 6 horsepower motor.
You can tap battery banks to get 24 V or even 48 V etc. and if you have 12 V devices you can run special taps off the battery banks to use 12 V. Take a look at golf carts. They have a lot of batteries to have high voltage for the motors, but then they’re tapped at 12 V for the lights.
You have to be careful with that strategy, it causes imbalance in the battery capacities.
Hi! It is easier to produce 110V from 12V than 230V, here in Hungary we have a more difficult task because twice as much stuff is needed to implement an off-grid Solar System. But I'm still listening and trying to get some ideas from others. Thanks for the idea, a concise and meaningful solution.
You can get a 230V version of the inverter I used in this system: czcams.com/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/video.html
But at 230 all your AC wiring can be half the size of the North American user, your lucky.
Great stuff! Thrilled that you covered the inrush current on the inverter. I didn't really consider that when I built my own solar generator. I've got a 600 watt Giandel inverter, and I haven't had an issue with the Daly BMS. I'll dig into the inrush current limits on the Daly BMS to see if I can expand without replacing my BMS. Cheers!
I didn't expect it to be that high either. I knew there would be when the batteries were first connected, but I didn't expect another jump when the unit was turned on.
I know I didn't know anything about in Rush
Quality channel with correct information. It's rare to see these days. :)
I was especially impressed by Jordan's knowledge.
One thing you may want to do, is to have a 'precharge' breaker, where you mount the resistor in the system, so you can flick on the precharge first, then when the capacitors are charged, you can flick on the other breaker and flick off the precharge breaker.
To see if the capacitors have been precharged, you could likely just add a LED and a resistor over the power-resistor; when the LED turns off, the capacitors would be charged.
I'm also happy you recommend the LiFePO4 batteries; they're (currently) the best and safest of the affordable battery types available.
Edit: It may be a good idea to write the "in-order checklist" on the device, so you never forget the steps for turning it on / off.
I like your idea of building in a pre-charge circuit.
@@ProjectsWithDave - I forgot to mention that a good resistor value for a LED connected to 12V would be 1K Ohm or above.
It might be necessary to create a 'resistor ladder' to be able to adjust when the LED should turn off, though. If you're lucky, it'll just work with the 1K in series with the LED.
The 1K resistor can be any 0.25Watt you have laying around.
Wow, just wow! Great video. Needed more power at my woodshop and was going to cost thousands to run new cables. Your solution is just what I needed. Will be using your links.
Thanks, glad it helped!
Very nice video. Thanks for testing the 1000 watt Renogy inverter as i just bought one a few weeks now and so i don't have to test it because you already did so. Greetings from Jamaica.
Thanks!
The look of this is best. No box
You can use a resistor to pre-charge inverter by keeping it installed with a momentary switch, this is to charge capacitors before switching inverter on without the spike.
Nice video. Your Son's input though short was very helpful, especially about advantage of running higher DC voltage battery banks. Of course that would more expensive sense you would need additional batteries wire in series to get a 24 volt system. Thank you for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
Informative video but commenting to say: Be careful microwaving water. When microwaving it can actually superheat the water without appearing to boil. When this happens water can become hotter than its boiling point without actually boiling, and when disturbed it can rapidly boil, steam, and explode. If you keep doing it put a wooden spoon or something in the water to allow the bubbles to form allowing it to boil.
Cool overview. The battery caught my eye because I purchased the same battery to run my Renogy 3000W portable battery. Works great. I should install a 150A breaker at the battery for safety. Thanks for sharing.
honesty is always the best keep on
Good video and lots of useful information. I live in the UK and a EB55 costs £499 and EB70 at £699 (coupon gets £80 off this price). I ordered a EB55 as it offers 400W dual charging which the EB70 doesn't and only 300W DIFFERENCE IN ac INVERTER OUTPUT. Building a similar unit would cost £200 more than buying one. I am adding two 12V 36Ah batteries so can add 922Wh to the DC input while charging with solar or charging batteries. Solar panels cost £400 for four and 2 batteries cost £252. DC charger cost £50 and EPEVER solar charger cost £80 for a 20A unit. Also have a 600W pure sine wave inverter and an older 1000W pure sine wave inverter as well as a 12V to 24V step up converter. Complete system costs around £1500 including the inverters so 2 systems can be run at the same time independently and charged individually.
Nice way to combine the standard generator with your own additional battery capacity.
@@ProjectsWithDave Yes but you need a buck converter to use the 25 to 28V input as it will not accept just 2 batteries connected in series ( about 26 volts) . I think it demands 10A but sees a higher current and will not switch the charging on. It needs a regulated input.
I have always liked your videos but I do have a few small recommendations you may want to use for your next build like this. Code requires you have a double pole breaker between the solar panels and charge controller. You have to be able to simultaneously disconnect both the positive and negative connectors at the same time. Typically I use a 63amp Din Rail mini-breaker. The small automotive breakers don't break the connections on both poles and in a short circuit event the current could jump the negative conductor.
Also you need to use fine strand flexible copper wire between the inverter and charge controller. You used what looked like THHN coarse stranded copper which can cause higher resistance and heat and it is not flexible which is harder to work with. Also many charge controller companies recommend against course strand wire. I believe bougeRV recommends against it as well.
I would recommend against stacking connections on the inverter and using bus bars.
You should also use either an ANL fuse or T-Class fuse between the battery and inverter (Bus bars). The breakers you chose are notoriously unreliable in high current systems. Although for such a small system they should be ok.
That being said. I love the videos you do so keep up the great work.
Thanks for the feedback. The Din Rail mini-breakers are a much better choice. I added that note to my parts breakdown on my website: projectswithdave.com/12v-1500w-diy-solar-generator/
Thanks for the education. Answered many question. I’m building a system which which consist of a 160 watt solar panel with a Victron 75/15. I haven’t determine what battery to use. Probably a power queen 12 volt 100 or 200 ah. This is for camping use in a van and charging electric bikes. I think a 500 watt inverter would be enough for these purposes. Thanks again for the information.
Wow thanks for such a thorough breakdown and explanation from start to finish. If I study this video a bit more I bet I could put it all together.
Great! I'm glad it was helpful!
Very simple and nice setup. Adding some grounding and a battery charging monitor would be nice to have.
A shunt would be very helpful, but that starts pushing the cost up.
Best video on inverters batteries and solar setup I've seen to date. Just subscribed excellent 👍 👏
Hi Dave. Nice comprehensive video. I would have also mentioned an off grid charging option using the charging brick and a small portable generator. I built a power cart (Wen brand utility cart) using three 200 amp Power Queen Plus LiFePo's batteries (7950 WH capacity total) coupled with a 3000 watt pure sine inverter. Each battery having it's own individual ON/OFF switch. However I do not intend on paralleling them.
A portable generator and a power brick would work, but probably not very efficient.
Impressive video, im excited to get started for an installation like this on my boat
You should have far more subscribers, than you do. Keep up the great presentations, & you will. Thanks. You now have 1 more.
I built an all-in-one ~1.6Kwh Lithium-ion 12VDC system, incorporating an internal 1000w inverter. A little undersized, but in New Zealand, we don't have the luxury of great product diversity, & it was the only one I could find, that would fit into the toollbox, I used as my backup power supply case.
A coupe of issues I experience are:
-the Victron 75/15 MPPT solar charge controller, mis-reads the battery voltage, on the device app, so I have to charge at a higher voltage, than the app reads. I use a connected Cellmeter 7 balancer (voltage has been confirmed with a multimeter) to manually check the battery voltage, whilst charging.
-my inverter's (Chinese one. Programmable inverters, in NZ, cost an arm, & 2 legs!) display mis-reads the battery voltage by ~0.5VDC. Not ideal. But the seller adjusted the input voltage resistor, so it reads a similar offset voltage. So the inverter does not shut down, with too much usable battery voltage left.
The only appliance that does not work, is my water pump, due to the inrush voltage, on the undersized inverter. Not really a biggie, now we aren't having power cuts every other week, like we used to.
Am designing 2 portable lithium-ion batteries, that can be easily connected in series/parallel, depending on the immediate needs. May be used as a permanent solution, for my pump?
Thanks for the feedback. A 1000W inverter is good for an entry level backup, but I've found 2,000W is really the minimum if you want to manage any significant appliance. If you use a meter with inrush capability you can identify the threshold you need to achieve in order to run your pump. Also, you can look into some startup capacitors that can reduce the surge load for you. I added one to my heat pump.
Wow , the Best education on setting up solar. Thank You
⚡I like the way you film and explain things....straight to the point......no BS......super helpful....subd! ⚡
Thanks for the sub!
If I could be a super hero, I'd be you 😆. Thank you for this awesome video.
That's funny, I'll have to show this comment to my wife. : )
One thing I’d like to say is if you built a diy at similar capacity and similar inverter you would likely be about the same costs based on what you posted. I personally like having the diy because I can expand or modify my system where you can’t change the Bluetti at all. But it’s a good compare of easy to find parts vs a prebuilt solar generator even though it’s a little undersized to the diy. Larger. 1200w prebuilt are significantly more money the last time I looked.
It all depends on what you need. Flexibility and expandability, or simple and easy. The cost continually jumps all over the place, but this at lest gives you an idea of where you will land.
Very nice setup 👌 👍Very detailed 👌 👍 measurements of the inrush current is certainly very useful to know 👍
thanks Dave, Best seen on this topic yet!
Nice setup. Only one glaring flaw. After spending more than 23 years in the inverter repair industry, I would highly recommend spending a little extra money and investing in a low frequency, transformer based inverter instead of that low cost, low surge, high frequency, transformerless inverter. High frequency, transformerless inverters are not designed for powering high inductance loads such as microwave ovens, power tools or refrigerators and can be damaged or have their life considerably shortened when powering inductive loads. The problem is low cost MOSFETs that are used in these inverters that are far more sensitive to the surges that are required by these inductive loads. When powering inductive loads, you'll typically only get a year or less worth of life from a high frequency inverter whereas a low frequency inverter will typically yield 10 years or more before needing service.
Thanks, that's a good reminder. I can tell you my low frequency Victron inverters are way better at powering inductive loads. Here is one setup I installed and tested: czcams.com/video/BzMAW8kW0CU/video.html
Great review. I have built many inverter projects and did not know they had such high inrush currents on startup. The thing that I would add to any home built unit is some kind of battery monitor that has a shunt and the ability to show battery charge percentage. I like the Renogy units. Knowing what state of charge you have in the battery is important. Without being able to monitor it is like driving a car without a working gas gauge. It leaves you guessing all the time and it can quit unexpectedly. Volt meters are poor ways to measure LFP battery state of charge.
Great advice! Thanks!
This was great video. Makes me think investing in Ego products is best fit for me. I’m eyeing that 12 amp hour new push mower for 2023 then just get their Nexus power station.
I havent watched full video but just quickly (based on experience) ---> those off the shelf power stations are insanely inefficient ...the inbuilt invertors leak so much power....I had a top end ecoflow but returned it....after many tests and application uses I was getting ~55-60% of the claimed energy (kWh or Ah) .....this was via the 240v inverter..... power usage via the 12V sockets wasnt much better...i returned the product (what a sh*t-fight that was).....building your own unit is a different beast.....you build to out specific needs, you learn so much and gain invaluable knowledge and you can get WAYYY more battery and component value for the same amount of dollars....its not all hate but when I pay $1500 for a product and it deliveres 60% of claimed benefits then that to me is a total fail / rip off.
Excellent. I have a 1000, and 1500 watt inverter. I’m using 2 of the LIFEP04 batteries. I’m thinking I need a 2000 watt inverter especially since in an emergency outage I’m looking at running a full size fridge. Everything else I have covered. Full sized fridge and freezer for at least 24 hrs.
A 2000W inverter is a good size for emergency backup, it can run virtually any 120V appliance in your home, and it can run multiple small loads at once.
I would at least tin the wire with solder for the crimped ends. Best way is to solder the loop terminals on. If you don't do one or the other the connections will loosen with use and heat cycles. Loose connections are a potential loss of efficiency and or melt down. Great ideas for portable power. I'm going to build one for my pontoon boat and back up in emergency situation such as tyrannical power grid sabotage. Alot of punch, for not a bunch!
Another solution is to use a 48v or 24v system. The increased voltage will correspondingly reduce the amps needed by the inverter. The other components just need to match the battery voltage.
Thank you for this video. I'm one that debates whether or not to have a 12, 24 or 48 volt system for an inverter system to power my ac system in the radio shack. My radios use 12 volts. I may just use two different systems, a 12 volt for the radios and a 24 or 48v system for the ac system. From my limited understanding, you can take 12 volt from a 24 or 48 volt system if you wire correctly.
I recommend you go with 48V if your radio load is not too high. Watch this video: czcams.com/video/xsZzlF_NA6E/video.html
I don't really subscribe much anymore as I have overdosed on CZcams videos lol. This is a great video on a Will Prowse level. That precharge resistor I kinda want to install an Altronix time delay relay to automate the process and add consistency. Especially for mobile builds that would see repetitive setups. I'm looking forward to future videos. Nice work. 👍
Thanks!
Thanks, great video. Times they are a changin' . Bluetti 270p was just $1199 this past week. May come down lower soon. I found the KAIWEETS HT208D Inrush Clamp Meter on ebay for $56 w tax.
shipped
Wow! that's a great deal
Thank you for the very detail oriented video, greatly appreciated!!!! Looking for something for emergency use when power goes down, you gave me many options, thanks again! Looks like a fun project for me and my 13 Yr old son but at a much smaller scale….Lol
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent stream thank you so much for this, I'm from UK Manchester so may not get the same products, but your precise information to the details will give me a head start thank you so very much
Glad it was helpful!
Great presentation. Keep up the good work.
Much appreciated!
This is an excellent video! Thank you for posting this info. I’m now a new subscriber to your channel. Thanks again!
Thanks and welcome!
Great video mate thanks I'm new too all this stuff but want too get a back up for the house together
Thank You Everybody for All that you are doing for our Planet Earth.... Peace.. Shalom.. Salam.. Namaste .. 🙏🏻 😊 🌈 ✌ 🌷 ☮ ❤🕊
Just discovered you, AMAZING!! Thank you so much for sharing ❤
I do believe the proper circuit wiring is Solar Charge Controller > Battery > Inverter > Load
What reason would you wire the inverter before the battery?
That's correct, the standard method would use a buss bar to connect the 3 components. This setup is simply using the inverter posts in place of the buss bar to reduce complexity and cost. Setting it up this way does have some limitations.
you must use resistor to preload inverter. 5W is ok. make switch for preload > first connect resistor, then parallel strong current.
I appreciate your efforts involved to assemble this unit and make th8s video. Thank you.
Clear and veery helpful, thanks Dave
Glad it was helpful!
enjoying all the details and options, tyvm for the video
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
I'm not sure why you have the charge controller hooked up to the inverter. If you were to turn off the battery breaker , that would effectively keep the charge controller from charging the battery . Plus that would be the same as having panel input with no place for the output to go, potentially damaging the controller. The charge controller should be hooked up to the battery , that way you still have the option to charge the battery with the battery breaker turned off. If you don't want to charge the battery just turn off the input breaker to the controller.
EXCELLENT video❤
Thank you!
I like the lower output voltage. Lights will last much longer at reduced voltage. If i was to run an AC unit or well pimp i would want 120 volts. But probably everything will be ok as is. Thanks for posting i would hope the charge controller would have the order of power up. Thanks for posting the power up sequence. 73
Great video. I have never seen a charge controller connected to the invertor. The MPPT will give out up to 14.6 volts which may cause an over voltage error depending on the invertor.
I assume you are concerned for a condition where the battery is disconnected and only the charge controller is connected to the inverter? Yes, I should probably have mentioned it's not meant to be run that way. The setup relies on the battery to balance the load/supply to the inverter. Thanks!
In this setup, having the charge controller connected directly to the inverter should not be a problem as most inverters have a maximum input voltage greater than 15 volts, most I have seen are 15.5 and some up to 16 volts.
this was a honest good testing
Hi Dave I sorted the dual DC charging on the EB55. You can use solar and a battery to charge the EB55 so NO AC power brick needed. You need a DC to DC converter with constant current and constant voltage. I used a step down one from Amazon (it will need extra cooling) and fine tuned the DC volts to 25.2V and 7.5A. EB55 shows about 180W charging. Power was from two 12.8V 36Ah batteries. It passes the 7.5A straight through from the battery to the EB55.
If your extra batteries are 12.8V, you will need a DC to DC step up converter to bring the voltage up to 25V.
@@ProjectsWithDave I connected two 12.8V in series with fuses on each positive output.
Oh, I see, and how are you charging the extra batteries?
@@ProjectsWithDave Solar with a 20 Amp charger.