Had a break on my belt aswell, but only after about 600 miles. Had it replaced and now 4500 miles later it's still running strong. It worked great during the winter. At -20C (-4F) and below it started complaining with a humming sound, but no problems. Rode it in snow, rain, dirt and large amounts of road salt. So from my point of view it's maintaince free. Thanks for the video though, need to tension my belt.
I use the bike for commuting every day rain or shine, about 17km a day. Belt snapped after 1970 miles. There was no indication at all that it was about to snap. Just went to start off from a stop junction and "snap". On the exact same journey, over 5 years and 17000 miles, my chains averaged 1880 miles. Belt drive certainly was "maintenance free", didn't have to do anything to it. My issue is it didn't last as long as the claims. The teeth on the front aluminium pulley were also worn.
I normally insert two allen keys or screw drivers into those two holes and place the crank in between them and use the crank itself as a lever to adjust the eccentric bottom bracket!
Wow, that's good info. Being stranded at only 2000 miles is horrible, I wouldn't put up with it either. I also average about 1800 miles on a chain, though I have determined that for me, I just keep using the chains after they "should be replaced" - I let them wear along with the cassette and sprockets, then just replace the entire drivetrain every 10,000 miles or so. As I use inexpensive components, it turns out to be cheaper and much easier to just replace everything 1/5 as often.
Thanks for the video Simon - this looks spot on! I've got the 2010 model Sub10 with identical setup. I see you're just using a regular socket wrench but do you have any idea what the correct torque should be for the pinch bolts? I've managed to do one too tight previously and rounded the head trying to remove it. I had to get the LBS to cut the old one out and replace it. Fortunately there was no frame damage but before I adjust mine again I thought I'd get my torque wrench onto the job to stop my overenthusiastic cranking. Unfortunately, I can't find a specified torque. I'd guess around 40Nm like a wheel nut but would love a definitive answer for peace of mind!
I have a similar set-up on my Scott sub 35, but have run into trouble. The EBB seems frozen in the sleeve, can't turn it with my Park (green) 2 pin spanner. Any suggestions?
thanks for the vid Simon. I have a creak/click coming from the bottom bracket. how could you extract the bottom bracket to clean and regrease? any help would be very appreciated!
It’s just like any other bike really. Instead of the bottom bracket fitting directly into the frame, the bottom bracket fits into a metal carrier which is then clamped into the frame. Adjusting the bottom bracket as in this video just rotates the carrier. So leave the pinch bolts on the carrier done up tight and replace the bottom bracket as normal. It’s screw in not a push fit so first thing is to remove cranks. Unfortunately the rest is specific to your bottom bracket, there are several designs and they’re all slightly different with regards replacing them. Quite often you will need a special tool but these are cheap.
Had a break on my belt aswell, but only after about 600 miles. Had it replaced and now 4500 miles later it's still running strong.
It worked great during the winter. At -20C (-4F) and below it started complaining with a humming sound, but no problems. Rode it in snow, rain, dirt and large amounts of road salt.
So from my point of view it's maintaince free.
Thanks for the video though, need to tension my belt.
I use the bike for commuting every day rain or shine, about 17km a day. Belt snapped after 1970 miles. There was no indication at all that it was about to snap. Just went to start off from a stop junction and "snap". On the exact same journey, over 5 years and 17000 miles, my chains averaged 1880 miles.
Belt drive certainly was "maintenance free", didn't have to do anything to it. My issue is it didn't last as long as the claims. The teeth on the front aluminium pulley were also worn.
I normally insert two allen keys or screw drivers into those two holes and place the crank in between them and use the crank itself as a lever to adjust the eccentric bottom bracket!
You Sir, Are a GENIUS ! Thanks :D
Thanks Simon, was trying to figure out how that worked. Take care
Wow, that's good info. Being stranded at only 2000 miles is horrible, I wouldn't put up with it either.
I also average about 1800 miles on a chain, though I have determined that for me, I just keep using the chains after they "should be replaced" - I let them wear along with the cassette and sprockets, then just replace the entire drivetrain every 10,000 miles or so. As I use inexpensive components, it turns out to be cheaper and much easier to just replace everything 1/5 as often.
Fantastic! Thank you, Simon.
Thanks for the video Simon - this looks spot on! I've got the 2010 model Sub10 with identical setup. I see you're just using a regular socket wrench but do you have any idea what the correct torque should be for the pinch bolts? I've managed to do one too tight previously and rounded the head trying to remove it. I had to get the LBS to cut the old one out and replace it. Fortunately there was no frame damage but before I adjust mine again I thought I'd get my torque wrench onto the job to stop my overenthusiastic cranking. Unfortunately, I can't find a specified torque. I'd guess around 40Nm like a wheel nut but would love a definitive answer for peace of mind!
Pinch bolts should be 8-9Nm according to sources I have seen. So nothing like the wheel nuts.
I have a similar set-up on my Scott sub 35, but have run into trouble. The EBB seems frozen in the sleeve, can't turn it with my Park (green) 2 pin spanner. Any suggestions?
What were the reliability issues with the belt drive? Belt drives are sold as being "maintenance free"
Is the tool you referred to as a mallet a rubber mallet or a deadblow hammer with a soft face like a soft face hammer?
What type of spanner is this guy using?
thanks for the vid Simon. I have a creak/click coming from the bottom bracket. how could you extract the bottom bracket to clean and regrease? any help would be very appreciated!
It’s just like any other bike really. Instead of the bottom bracket fitting directly into the frame, the bottom bracket fits into a metal carrier which is then clamped into the frame. Adjusting the bottom bracket as in this video just rotates the carrier. So leave the pinch bolts on the carrier done up tight and replace the bottom bracket as normal. It’s screw in not a push fit so first thing is to remove cranks. Unfortunately the rest is specific to your bottom bracket, there are several designs and they’re all slightly different with regards replacing them. Quite often you will need a special tool but these are cheap.