Thank you - I'm just a homeowner so I didn't really "need" to know this but I learned something today that I didn't yesterday! I've seen neutral (white) wires wired in switches before (home built in the early 70's) and now I understand why and how that worked.
Thank you!!! It is a simple concept that most people just don't understand!!! I am glad you liked it!! I am doing my best to build a great channel so I appreciate the support!! CM
Thanks for the explanation. With the new code requirements, can I use a 3-conductor wire? I'm thinking of using the red down to the junction box and then running the black back to the light/load. That way I can leave the neutral with a wire nut inside the junction box and then connected to the load to form the loop.
My problem(s) are that the previous electrician used the ‘loop’ method for installing a 2-gang ceiling fan/light fixture in our bedroom. The ‘power’ came from an adjacent room, via our attic. Thinking the ‘fan’ single-pole switch wore out…an easy fix. NOPE. Now I am completely at my wits. This home was rebuilt in the 40’s to early 50’s. Any suggestions welcomed. Thank you, in advance.
Where I get mixed up in this is I'm well versed in automotive electronics which is different for more than the obvious voltage/type reasons. In controlling circuits in a transmission (my specialty) American vehicles typically use Ground side control. Japanese vehicles tend to use Power side control. Whereas I see ONLY the Power side is used in residential (I'm only here out of curiosity), HOWEVER you should be ready to find just about anything cobbled together. The fact of the matter is any open, anywhere in a circuit will render it 'off'. Carelessly opening a circuit can be shocking to say the least.
Interesting, thanks for the explanation. I've seen some people say that in a switch loop, you can get shocked while changing the light fixture even if the switch is OFF. Is this true?
I wired my switch loop just like the video but as soon as I turn the breaker on, the light fixture automatically turns on when my switch is off and stays on. What am I doing wrong?
You have power going right to the light. The BLACK wire from the feed is tied to the WHITE wire on the switch. The WHITE wire from the FEED goes to the light and the BLACK wire from the switch goes to the light. Follow these steps and it will work. Thanks!! CM
My kitchen light is wired like this. I don’t understand how the switch interrupts the power when both legs to that switch are hot. I mean when the wires are removed from the switch I get power on both legs, independently. And the switch doesn’t appear to interrupt power to either leg back at the box where the light fixture is and where the power runs to. So I do not understand what the switch is interrupting.
My teacher told that the hot wire ( white with black tape ) always goes under and feeder goes on top. But i saw on you video hot on top is that right is not a code
There is nothing in the code stating that the reidentified white wire goes anywhere. its a single pole switch just as if they were two black wires!! It is more of a preference than a code. Great question. CM
He is just demonstrating how switches were sometimes wired in many older homes. Just like he explained, this method is no longer code compliant but you will come across it while doing service calls. As of 2011 this setup would require a 3 wire cable from the light to the switch box and you'd put a wirenut over the neutral and push it aside. Sometimes in this day and age a standard switch gets replaced with an electronic switch of some sort and it needs a neutral to power the electronics in standby mode. 30 + years ago this wasn't a problem because such switches did not exist. The Code recognized the need for a change because newer switches were being added to older systems and people were using the ground as the neutral and creating objectionable current on the equipment grounding conductors.
Thank you, your explanation really helped me figure my situation out.
Another well done instructional video. Pretty clear explanation. Thanks.
Got a 97% on my Oregon Masters Exam ur videos helped alot Mahalo
From Maui.
Congratulations!! CM
Thank you - I'm just a homeowner so I didn't really "need" to know this but I learned something today that I didn't yesterday! I've seen neutral (white) wires wired in switches before (home built in the early 70's) and now I understand why and how that worked.
Brother, you are a blessing to the electrical world
EXCELLENT VIDEO explaining switch loop! "feed down the white/back on the back" . awesome!
Thank you!!! It is a simple concept that most people just don't understand!!! I am glad you liked it!! I am doing my best to build a great channel so I appreciate the support!! CM
And, also notice what terminal the power is connected to at the switch - so that ‘on’ and ‘off’ on the switch are correct. Great video!
Thank you brother much love!!
Thank you. That helped explain wiring in our older home.
Thanks your videos helped me a lot 👍
Thanks for the explanation. With the new code requirements, can I use a 3-conductor wire? I'm thinking of using the red down to the junction box and then running the black back to the light/load. That way I can leave the neutral with a wire nut inside the junction box and then connected to the load to form the loop.
Thanks for the clear video and explanation. What if you have a 3rd set of wires in the junction box?
You doing a great job
Great! I recently use the neutral or white wire for a switch and identify it with red tape...
Can we have two light fixtures on a switch loop
My problem(s) are that the previous electrician used the ‘loop’ method for installing a 2-gang ceiling fan/light fixture in our bedroom. The ‘power’ came from an adjacent room, via our attic. Thinking the ‘fan’ single-pole switch wore out…an easy fix. NOPE. Now I am completely at my wits. This home was rebuilt in the 40’s to early 50’s. Any suggestions welcomed. Thank you, in advance.
Great video, thank you.
Thank you sir.
How would you do a multiple light switch loop
Where I get mixed up in this is I'm well versed in automotive electronics which is different for more than the obvious voltage/type reasons. In controlling circuits in a transmission (my specialty) American vehicles typically use Ground side control. Japanese vehicles tend to use Power side control. Whereas I see ONLY the Power side is used in residential (I'm only here out of curiosity), HOWEVER you should be ready to find just about anything cobbled together. The fact of the matter is any open, anywhere in a circuit will render it 'off'. Carelessly opening a circuit can be shocking to say the least.
Thank you. I am thinking about becoming an electrician
Best thing I ever did. Find a good school and a great company to train you. Thanks for watching. CM
don't, there ain't any jobs the older you get . low pay hard work
Dominic Rosiak great choice
Interesting, thanks for the explanation. I've seen some people say that in a switch loop, you can get shocked while changing the light fixture even if the switch is OFF. Is this true?
What about when you have 3 pairs of hot and neutral wires coming from the junction box?
I wired my switch loop just like the video but as soon as I turn the breaker on, the light fixture automatically turns on when my switch is off and stays on. What am I doing wrong?
You have power going right to the light. The BLACK wire from the feed is tied to the WHITE wire on the switch. The WHITE wire from the FEED goes to the light and the BLACK wire from the switch goes to the light. Follow these steps and it will work. Thanks!! CM
Did the fix work?
My kitchen light is wired like this. I don’t understand how the switch interrupts the power when both legs to that switch are hot. I mean when the wires are removed from the switch I get power on both legs, independently. And the switch doesn’t appear to interrupt power to either leg back at the box where the light fixture is and where the power runs to. So I do not understand what the switch is interrupting.
How can I get this to work with a countdown timer switch? Old home has loop switches, but seems I cant get one of these to work.
awesome video, but how do i run more than one light (lest say 3 lights) using the loop method?
Just splice on to the switch leg and neutral as you can add more lights. Great question!! CM
My teacher told that the hot wire ( white with black tape ) always goes under and feeder goes on top. But i saw on you video hot on top is that right is not a code
There is nothing in the code stating that the reidentified white wire goes anywhere. its a single pole switch just as if they were two black wires!! It is more of a preference than a code. Great question. CM
Thank very much craig
Why is it not 3 wire
He is just demonstrating how switches were sometimes wired in many older homes. Just like he explained, this method is no longer code compliant but you will come across it while doing service calls. As of 2011 this setup would require a 3 wire cable from the light to the switch box and you'd put a wirenut over the neutral and push it aside. Sometimes in this day and age a standard switch gets replaced with an electronic switch of some sort and it needs a neutral to power the electronics in standby mode. 30 + years ago this wasn't a problem because such switches did not exist. The Code recognized the need for a change because newer switches were being added to older systems and people were using the ground as the neutral and creating objectionable current on the equipment grounding conductors.
I don't it for my switch plugs, best way to do it when you r separating your circuits