Why Our Timber is Banned in America
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 03. 2023
- Head to www.squarespace.com/scottbrow... to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain.
MUSIC is licensed via Epidemic Sound, this is a referral link. I may earn credits on my epidemic sound account if you sign up
share.epidemicsound.com/w8nbbv
Support us on Patreon - www.patreon.com/user?u=16545763
Donate here if you would like to help the channel - www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr...
The below are affiliate links. I get a small percentage when you buy using these links. It does not cost you anything extra, but helps supports the channel. Thanks!
My Tools
Tool belt amzn.to/3dXMZnk
Tool belt shoulder straps amzn.to/3AI0VLU
My favourite track saw amzn.to/3zE9usw
My framing nailer amzn.to/3DvCd3W
Hammer with wooden handle amzn.to/3jRhQ92
Rubber grip for hammer amzn.to/3jTM7UE
Knipex nail puller amzn.to/3DVER47
Long level amzn.to/3WvwmnF
Nail puller amzn.to/3WsMGWb
Multi-tool amzn.to/3WjUPwa
Speed Square amzn.to/3yAaE5f
Small laser measure amzn.to/3Nu4goI
My craft knife amzn.to/3T0TEPs
Mini pocket saw amzn.to/3NsVjMF
Little bar for little nails amzn.to/3fs6vwu
Big bar for big nails amzn.to/3Nx9OPs
Makita Circular Saw amzn.to/3qYzaKH
Battery holders Makita 18v amzn.to/3Ws2Krf
Battery holders Makita 40v amzn.to/3U0TdpF
Awesome ratchet clamp amzn.to/3dSGa6s
Impact driver (main drill) amzn.to/3xDmBat
Other drill for pilot holes amzn.to/3yAYjh4
My Table Saw amzn.to/2UzuOxp
My favourite vacuum (newer version) amzn.to/3yxss0S
Full face mask amzn.to/3hH4Cce
Ear muffs amzn.to/3yNAWBl
Green line laser level amzn.to/3yqYdJ0
Vaccuum suction lifter amzn.to/3U1oaKt
The Camera Gear I use
Main Camera amzn.to/3AD2if5
Backup Camera amzn.to/3jTGTbv
Main Lens (main camera) amzn.to/3wp0hzU
Lens for Backup Camera amzn.to/3jWaFfU
Microphone amzn.to/36pNWAA
Tripod amzn.to/3yxSeCb
Headphones amzn.to/3xqm2R4
Drone amzn.to/3xp9OrO
My coffee stuff
Fancy coffee kettle amzn.to/3fpbyhe
Fancy bean grinder amzn.to/3SZiZcn
For keeping my coffee fresh amzn.to/3NxRzt7
For weighing the coffee amzn.to/3FLcJCp
Aeropress (Coffee) amzn.to/3ijpvdQ
My Work Wear
Work Pants euroworkweardirect.com.au/col...
Vest euroworkweardirect.com.au/pro...
Kneepads euroworkweardirect.com.au/col...
Belt euroworkweardirect.com.au/col...
SEND STUFF HERE
PO BOX 3506
Richmond 7050
New Zealand
Disclaimer:
These videos are intended to provide information and inspiration only. If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. Scott Brown Carpentry Ltd does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this CZcams channel and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result.
To view full disclaimer, click here: www.scottbrowncarpentry.com/d... - Jak na to + styl
Hi Scott, as a Technology teacher in NZ I have battled for 25 years with dust issues in the workshop. With class sizes of up to 30 students, extraction systems are inadequate at the best of times. Any dust is hazardous but treated timber and MDF or customwood as it's often known, is a problem that we should all be very concerned about.
I used to work in the lumber industry in the US. HT (heat treating) is primarily used to prevent the spread of invasive insects.
Absolutely gorgeous deck Scott, you really are a craftsman. Your home and garden is starting to look like Mr Miyagis yard from the Karate Kid, stunning.
Scott when you said about friends comjng to visit that where there a year ago but no deck, i realized we’ve been watching your channel for few years now from when up in north island. The tours of your small rented shed, the trips to the store when Covid started.
It’s been a privilege to follow your journey as you and Jess go about every day stuff and share that with us. And the quality in your work is bloody awesome. Loving the big deck.
You’re guys are good souls and we love the genuineness of how you are.
In the Canadian Prairies, where we go from plus 35 C to minus 35 C in one year, there is lots of soil movement. So for a large deck that requires a proper foundation, there will be either cement piles down past the frost line (around 1.5 meters) or ground screws to a similar depth. The advantage of ground screws when properly installed is that they don't move up and down in the soil. Unless the cement pile is belled at the bottom, there is some chance of frost heave if the ground is too wet.
Ground screws are also great where pouring concrete would be problematic. I am putting some in to anchor bottom on the 8 step stair from my deck to my floating dock.
That's a crazy temperature difference. Here, in Auckland on the North Island, we go from about 5 C to 25 C, maybe a little bit more or less. A fine day in winter will allow you to wear just a t-shirt for most of the day.
A carpenter from Kiruna (a very northern part of Sweden) thought me to build free floating decks. You need to remove the top soils down to solid ground. You then place garden cement slabs on it and build the deck with legs that stand on the slabs. He claimed that no matter how deep you burry piles in Kiruna, the frost will push them up. The floating decks will move with the soil, but that movement is minimal in comparison. The free floating decks I have built are still level after a decade of use.
@@dvogonen We do something similar here, though we generally use precast concrete blocks that have a recess to allow the post to be help in place. The block has a drain hole down the middle and slots along the sides to allow airflow around the post. We dig down about 25cm and fill the hole with packed gravel to act as a drain and the blocks sit on that. Keeps the wood above any direct contact with moisture. The deck behind my home is a floating deck and is about 11m x 6m. Like yours, it moves a tiny bit, but it remains level and is very strong. Deck foundations here have to go below the frost line if you are attaching the deck to the house (or other building).
@@Major-Dan This guy floats.
What a stunning deck SBC. Well done! Interesting information about the timber too. Good to see you & friends’ relaxing on the deck.😎☕️☀️
The first video of yours I watched was of a deck build in Auckland and I was flabbergasted by it's beauty. This is equally beautiful. A true craftsman.
The only thing I love more than watching you work and explain your way through various tasks is turning on the subtitles whenever you start talking about decks.
Big ups, I'm about to build some floating shelves because of your video from awhile ago. Just finally got some material in. 👌
Have been watching your channel for years and I'm proud to say I used a technique today that I learned on the channel! Did a scriber on a deck fascia to lapped siding. Turned out perfect first try thanks to you. Amazing videos Scott, I appreciate every minute
Great video! The deck looks amazing! The "6 months wait to stain" I think is because the pressure treated wood will not properly accept the stain. You have to wait until the pressure treated stuff dries completely. You can test by putting a water drop on the surface you want to stain and see if the water is absorbed in 10 minutes. If not then the wood will not properly absorb the stain. :)
Hi Scott, Love the channel. If you are going to oil the deck I would recommend either a sikkens or intergrain system. I would never trust the weather to fully remove tannins from the timber before coating. Better to use a complete system which will include a tanning oil remover, cleaner, then oil. I am a licensed painting contractor in Australia and have done hundreds of decks. I quite often see decks done without proper preparation before coating. They dont look good for very long as the sun will pull the tannins to the surface of the timber and start breaking down the oil giving a very patchy look. Anyways all the best with it
I swear by Shaffer's decking products
czcams.com/video/tbazGVrbN-g/video.html
Deck, not Dick 😂
Seriously though those pieces of steel you put into concrete at those ridiculous prices could have been replaced with ordinary galvanized
1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/4 angle. Will do a better job at support and not highway robbery.
Stunning work as always Scott. Loving seeing the progress u and Jess are making. Enjoy the well earned chill with your friends man 🤙
Hello from San Francisco, CA Scott. Beautiful work bro. From one young carpenter to another you are a massive inspiration man.
Hey Scott, ❤️ your work and the way you show it!
A suggestion for you guys, run a hidden Led strip along the spaces you created, between the stairs and around the bottom of the deck.
Fantastic build Scott. Can't wait to see what you guys do next... Especially Jess's landscaping plans around the deck. 👏👏
I found this video so relaxing watching you put a deck together.
“You’re supposed to just suck it off” lol 😂. Scott-“don’t worry I won’t include it” Also Scott- includes it. Lol. Awesome
No sucking on the dick!
We built our deck in the summer of 2022 with ground screws. 100% would recommend. The cost was about 1.5x that of concrete and timber posts but the work was done in one day and the saddles were all laser levelled. The next day I dropped beams onto the saddles and we were off and away building the deck. Ground screws have the added benefit of avoiding (Canadian) frost heave too.
Congrats! Scott, your hannel is my favorite to watch and I've really enjoyed the Deck series. Enjoy the weekend with your friends.
You’ve done a beautiful job of the deck, Scott. Your attention to detail and finish is of a very high standard. 👌👌👏👏❤️❤️
Congrats for the new deck. Great job as usual
Yeah it was a big PITA for awhile while we worked thru the change.
You can still get timbers with CCA but typically they are used for pole barns and other ag buildings. In Oregon anyway the brown #2 PT posts have now been upgraded to allow them to be ground contact and by extension buried.
The bigger unmentioned issue with the change was the fastener requirement. It states that any fastener 1/2" and below in contact with ACQ timber needed to be hot dipped or coated with an ACQ approved coating and that electro-galvanized would no longer suffiece. This also led to the rise of the Zmax hangers which have to be used when in contact with any level of treated wood..
But like any change, once you get used to ordering two types of hangers and changing to only using galvanized fasteners it's business as usual.
At least in our area it was simple with it's proximity to the coast, the larger yards stopped carrying any bolts or hardware that wasn't hot dipped and that made it harder to mess up.
Kiwi in Queensland here, my local builder used galv brackets (only need the expensive stainless steel if you're within 500 metres of sea spray zone). He used H3 MGP10 joists and primed everyone including end grain. Then installed a rubber tape / strip over the top of joists so the Kwila and rain wouldn't leech into the joist long term.
Looks great, Scott. The detail is excellent. And love those stairs.
Fun video! loved the music. We'd run a mile here in the UK at the mention of arsenic...
I love that you say the chorus pipe needs to be fairly deep. Ideally, you want it deep enough that no one will strike it, although there is no actual rule for depth of comms cables. Chorus contractors will literally concrete saw a line across your driveway and just tuck the cable into the cut. The amount of terrible fibre installs by chorus I've seen as an electrician in auckland is out the gate.
All for speed
@@daeyvidd and "cheap".
@@sw6188 one in the same, in 98% of cases
@Sam Davy I've spoken to a chorus contractor and they get $600 budget per job. This is to cover labour and materials. Any additional materials has to be cleared with chorus before the job can commence. So I get it, but it's terrible
My chorus cable bows out of my lawn like a rainbow about 800mm and then goes through a sheet of fibre cement and under my house. 😂
Hey Scott, we had an overhead telephone cable and wanted our fibre cable buried. We dug our own trench to Chorus specs, they supplied the conduit. Chorus had to have the conduit up and down the power pole 'designed' buy their design team which we paid a few hundred dollars for, but that was the only cost for us. We did our power cables at the same time, in the same trench, separated to Vector and Chorus specs. It is certainly a lot better having the cables buried, but digging the trench ourselves saved thousands.
I used a bunch of the ground piles (ground screws) for my off grid ADU. I love them. They allowed me to get through the sand down to the hard stuff without digging that deep and without bringing in lots of heavy masonry
It's kind of funny, I realize yesterday that CZcams had not recommended one of your videos to me in quite some time (nearly a year), and then suddenly today this video popped up in my feed.
CCA is also not in use in the UK. We also have Accoya which is “pickled” softwood, the process essentially chemically alters the lignin/cellulose so microbes can’t eat in so well
Sounds it's processed similarly to the way wood, cotton, and linen are converted into rayon fiber: Plasticize the cellulose and it takes on some semi-synthetic properties.
No, it uses acetic acid. Preserves the would and even makes softwoods somewhat harder. Great tech -sucks that it can’t seem to take off in the States.
@@grimmWednesday So it's soaked in vinegar?
Acetylated wood exhibits considerably increased biological resistance to brown- and white-rot fungi (Larsson-Brelid et al. 2000
This was my point, I studied white rot fungi at university (although that was because they can eat DDT)
Ground screws rock! We use them all the time now, for decks and additions. If you don't want/need a crawl space or basement they save a lot of labour.
Hi Scott, love your videos. Re the comment about not staining for 6 months. In the land of Oz we wait 6 weeks, but I washed my deck with tannin remover and then stained it a day or so later. Finished product much sooner.
Great info. Thanks. Just a note - Built many a deck in my day. Using temporary posts allows you to keep working as the concrete sets. After I pour the concrete, I go ahead and deck the framing. No need to wait, as the deck is supported on temps. A little vibration from the nailing process will actually help the trapped air bubbles in the concrete rise. No need to wait.
It’s banned by the European Union to my parents owned a sawmill for years in Oxfordshire, England and we had a pressure treatment plant, and so I saw the whole process it used to worked wonderfully and the new acq which we had to use for everything would rot after 5-10 years
Thanks fuck not in the bloody e u
@@chipperkeithmgb well I wouldn’t go that far things aren’t exactly going great at the moment are they ?
Hi Scott, great videos on your deck construction process. Pretty sure you are in for a big shock when get the Chorus fibre quote!
It's looking great Scott! That was some hard work, congratulation! Thanks for the video!
In Sweden we use a lot of treated soft timber. Because climate. It used to contain chrome and arsenic, but that was banned back in 2007. The new stuff seems to hold up pretty well.
Yes. But ugly green color..
@@alexanderunden8607 You get also brown color and both can be stained what ever color you want.
@@alexanderunden8607 dont worry 1-3years after installed the green have faded in sunlight... and how else could you tell if someone have bought the cheap green or the pricey brown ^_^
Love the Videos Scott! Always Look forward to your videos every week
Ground screws are so good. Used them to build a garden room in a sloped garden that would have required a lot of cut and fill. Instead had 6 large ground screws of varying sizes installed and was straight onto cutting timber and framing the floor the next day
Nice One Scotty, I am a new subscriber after this vid. I did find the Info on CCA timber treatment really interesting. When it comes to inhalation of particulates be it sawdust, plaster, sanding materials, anything an angle grinder touches, handling cement/concrete, unwatered plaster products, sawing MDF, handling fiberglass, or whatever, the surefire way to prevent ingesting these hazardous materials. Wear a ventilator - probably the most underused and most hated PPE item!!!!! If you buy a good one they work really well and also minimize the fogging of sunnies and safety glasses. I forget sometimes and kick myself every time I remember - Do it guys and we'll live healthier and longer.
If CCA wood burns, everyone within the suburb and beyond, is exposed to breathing in not just arsenic particles, but also copper and chromium. All three are equally dangerous and all three are lethal in very minute quantities.
Hey Scotty, new to the channel, a possum was running around late last night in my unsealed reno house project so I turned on the algorithm ... awsome ...watched till dawn ... was late for work. Cheers from your newest fan in Moruya Oz
Great details on those steps!
we always soak fence poles in diesel. then make a hole ontop to "refill " it with diesel now and then.
then a nice little cap ontop to protect top of pole againts weather.
same when painting aging wood .
first brush them with diesel and let them soak it up before applying paint.
last for a loong time and make the paint stretch 3x longer.
Ground screws are fine in relatively soft, clear ground but in rooty, rocky clay soil they're a bit of a nightmare, and can deflect or need to be repositioned to avoid subsoil rocks and large roots. Consequently, you have to design the structure to be tolerant of these "off" positions and orientations. An alternative is pile foundations.
Also, if galv is deemed good enough for screws, then why not for the brackets that Scott used? For a deck that won't last beyond 30 years, I would have used galv with Malthoid behind it to seperate it from the timber. Or rather, like you wrote, some short posts.
@@kiwigrunt330 Galvanized screws and nails don’t do well in CCA lumber. I built a CCA deck in 1988, and the galvanized screws used in the deck had nearly disintegrated by 2019 when I had to replace a couple of decking boards. The Simpson Strong-Tie brackets made out of stainless steel in the support structure were still going strong. But, 30 years and still going strong was pretty good for a deck. I stained it every 2 years with an oil-based stain.
I have ground screws on my deck from StopDigging NZ. The cool thing is that you can get them to do the screw piles, including all the layout, which IMO is the hardest part of deck building. A bit more expensive but not a bad option.
How much did it cost
ground-screws and their larger cousin structural screw piles are rapidly increasing in use in Canada (Western Canada, at least, we’re on glacial lakebed and sea-bottom, not exposed solid bedrock like those folks in The East) Last deck/house extension I did used a combination of both… 4 foot deep ground screw on an 8 foot extension to get them below the frost line, to hold up the wheelchair ramp + landing, and 12’ deep 6” former drill pipe with 12” screw flights to hold up the (acq treated) main beams to under the deck.
I'm just a DIY homeowner and have _almost_ dealt with the issue of arsenic treated timber when reworking our deck. I say "almost" because I was lucky to not have to replace any of it. (The supports are all on concrete columns, with the treated lumber above ground level.
I think the concern is not so much about putting arsenic in the soil (the soil has a lot of it already here in Arizona) but the complications - and attendant violations - of disposing of the toxic wood when it is all replaced by whatever comes next.
They banned it because Yale University did a study in Connecticut that found the arsenic was leaching into the soil adjacent to playgrounds & decks. Therefore it could end up on peoples hands, etc. That study motivated the government to take a serious look at the health implications. It's more like a lead paint issue than a material waste problem as you described.
I did use some ground screws for a little outdoors stair - those things where very nice and solid. Liked them quite a lot!
As has been expressed by many, this is a beautiful deck! Very nicely done. 👍🏾 Will you be offering plans to build stairways similar to those on your deck?
Hi Scott, I'm from Germany and we use mostly cheap fir or spruce wood. Our way is to put cement piles in the ground with a figure H steel cemented into the top. The uprights can rest on it and are bolted - no contact to the ground, no hazardous treatment required. The steels are about 10€ each in galvanized and about 20€ in stainless, your steel prizes are ridiculous. I think, burning the ends, treating it with linseed oil and cement it into the ground would work pretty well too.
Hi Scott. Thank you for the video. You have built a beautiful deck. I have been a carpenter in the USA for over 40 years. I saw as treated pine came into being here. I have seen it turn to dust if not sealed properly. I have used very little treated lumber in my life. Mostly a douglas fir/hemlock hybrid that is used for any connection to concrete. Now I can not get rid of the scraps as the dump will not even take it. I could make more comments on your process. But the real way to do that is to have a sit down face to face conversation over a nice cold beer. I just returned from my first trip to New Zealand. Your country is everything they say it is, we loved it! The most sad part to me was to see the clear cutting and the slash piles. As we were headed home the next big cyclone was hitting. The beached were burried in slash. I hope you all can find an alternative to the manner they log. I see the same thing in the states and have fought hard to try to bring awareness to the damage that it does. Selective logging is they way to save our forests for the next enerations. Love your home and thank you again for the video.
From a forestry family and a geologist, and most of the issues on the East Coast is that the underlying geology is so prone to land sliding (even with old growth natives) that i think that it's not going to change the potential damage that can occur on that side of NZ. For exotic pine plantations, clear felling is often used due to the amount of wood extracted at a given, and it's relatively safer than selective logging, and cheaper (as you don't need experience helicopter crews). The Slash is left to ensure that some of the nutrients is returned to the next generation of pines, though there is an increasing movement to send it for burning for electricity.
Also, harvesting NZ Natives Timber is very rare, with special permits needed due to the environmental movement here in NZ, but in older homes, the untreated dry timber (Matai, Kauri and Rata) can become incrediably hard, with many builders power drills & bits breaking due to trying to drill into them after 50 years.
You should fly out Paerau, to help oiltreating the deck 😀 Miss him 💪
Hey Scott, you can build your leadin yourself up to your property boundary, that would save you thousands. inside the property boundary you only need 300mm cover. Avoid multiple hard bends. You can vac under your drive way with a high pressure Gerny. You can use a high pressure hose, feed it through the pipe and then clip a nozzle on it and push it through the dirt, you will end up with only a hole the diameter of the pipe rather than making a big mess under the drive way.
Shortly after I found your channel, I binged your renovation jobs. I hate having to wait a week for a short 12 - 15 minute video. They are great but go by so quickly.....and now to wait another week. Deck looks great by the way!
I think we all did that 😂
I agree we need 40 minute feature length episodes. Half of it should just be peaceful atmospheric shots around Nelson. 😀
A little cameo of the Viking clamp, very handy tool.
I have built a few decks over the years, and love this one. I too have the same problem of have a beer and looking at alignment of screws and consistency of gaps etc. so need to make sure I have no regrets.
The last deck I did, I used up all the offcuts of the decking timber and created a vertical skirt with them around the edge, and trimmed the bottom to the slightly raising driveway that it bordered. Looked great and I got to appreciate it every time I drove home
I built my deck 17 years ago and used Trex decking. I haven't had to stain ONCE! Love it. It cost more but staining is costly too, especially at 64 years old.
We had a Trex-type deck and one thing I particularly liked was that you could walk on it with bare feet without worrying about splinters.
Greetings from Auckland. Awesome, highly informative video. Many thanks
U are inspiration for me/us hobbyist. Great job.
I'm really enjoying the home reno series. 👍
Florida here..this is a first for this type of construction..look like beautiful weather..it look awesome great work..
Good looking deck! I learned the hard way with a couple of decks I built for customers that you should definitley not stain in right away 😅🤦♂
luckily for me, they were the two smaller decks i had built that year, so it wasn't that much work to fix them.
I like the ground screws, however they are very expensive to install. Thanks for the insight into your business.
We still use CCA treated pine over the ditch in Australia too brother!
Hey Scott, here in Canada we use those foundation screws a lot, they’re called here helical piers or piles. One of their greatest advantages is that they stop the movement of the post due to freezing conditions.
Yup, we also use screw piles, helical piles
Not a factor in his part of New Zealand so not a selling point. The biggest problem is seismic movement.
Canada - Steel screw pilings are great as long as you do not find obstacles like a big rock. However, if you do find a stone or rock down there it can skew the piling off to one side. I still believe that a concrete piling which extends below the frost line with a bulbous foot in a sono-tube with a metal socket on top for the timber transition is best. It very simply will not move & the timber can be easily replaced in the future if it rots, splits or twists. Here in Canada, we do not put timber in the ground any more... It is simply not good practice & since the abandonment of copper arsenic green treatment, the alternate treatments are not as good.
BUT... there is a system where you can fill the hole with two part expanding foam in place of concrete. For this, the wood is encased in the foam which will keep it out of underground moisture. I have also seen this done with a plastic sack on the post so in theory it could be pulled out of the "socket" one day in the future to replace it, but I have never seen that idea tested.
Nice to see some 'dutch' here. It is 'Gummetje' with an 'e' on the end by the way. It is a small 'gum' so that is why it is 'gummetje', same like 'huis ' and 'huisje'.
Nice build!
Wow Dan and Julia are really good looking people! You're so lucky to have them as friends 😅
I know right
Never been so early in these videos. Kudos to your craftmanship
There are other alternatives than ACQ available and also ACQ has a ground contact rating if it has sufficient retention. However, we have become used to not having wood in contact with the ground even when building decks. The brackets to attach to cement are not overly expensive.
Exactly. The only reason I can think to actually have posts embedded in the ground is something like a fence where there is no other lateral support so you need the deeply buried post for stability. Other than that, sinking posts into the ground is just poor and outdated design in general.
hey id love to see a story on ground screws . . to understand the process, cost and application . . also thanks for talking about H class timber treatment . .
Ok so I just wanted to say that I eagerly await the segues to the Squarespace ad!!! Makes my day 😅
Sorry to hear about extra cost to put Fibre optic cable underground. Here in Christchurch, it's all underground so I thought the aerial one was redundant phone cable. Since the power line comes from the same pole, you may want to lay a conduit in the trench for putting power line underground in the future. It's a beautiful deck!!
Just started my first project with Otter Ground Screws from Bunnings/Mitre 10. Very impressed so far, especially for the price (only about $36 each) but a bit disappointed at the availability of the flat top ones which I would have preferred over the stirrup design. It will be interesting to see how they last etc but so far so good. Oh and I tested how easily the come out again and it's an absolute breeze, potentially great for portable cabins etc which I will be trying later in the year.
Robin Clevett has a video about using ground screws to construct a garden room.
As a 35 + year builder in The US I had always been taught not to bury wood, ever, no matter if it's treated or not, unless it is untreated, and meant to be sacrificial like a raised vegetable bed. All framing is either @ or above grade and attached to the concrete via a galvi or stainless metal interface. Avoiding any ground contact is the general rule. We use concrete piers that have to go below the Frost Line, in my area of New England that is 4 feet, (1.22m) we get real winters here still. I just had to dig 2 piers today to hold up a handicap ramp at one of my client's homes. ACQ is all we got, but then there is also the old school bitumen dip if you have to put in fence posts, or eastern red cedar which is impervious to almost all rot and bugs, otherwise know as aromatic red cedar that they make cedar chests and closets from. Also my lumber rep told me that you wait 6 months for the ACQ wood to dry out from the chemical treatment to put stain on or it will not take well and peal or crack, which I have seen happen. We refer to treated wood as PT for pressure-treated, as the process was described to me it involves taking the Southern Yellow pine, kiln drying it and then vacuuming down to -6 atmospheres, then pumping in the ACQ and pressurizing the vessel to +6 atmospheres. So it puts a lot of liquid into the wood pores, and then gets stored outside in often freezing temps. I put lots of CCA up before it was banned, it didn't hold up any better, mostly because they told us that galvi fasteners would be compatible, they are not and cause "iron sickness" just like in salt water boat timbers. Fe will always react with the Tannins in any wood, and cause black rot and bleed. Stainless is the only way to retard that process. Anyway, we Don't generally bury any structural wood, with the exception of RR tie type retainer walls, and stairs and such for landscaping. Even when CCA was available we still rarely buried it. The general rule is Stone/concrete/Steel below grade, and wood above.
Over twenty years ago I was working in Boston M.A. I was working on a deck for my boss and we were using C.C.A treated timber for the frame. Another carpenter on the job got a splinter in his hand, as you do. He went home and forgot about it. He woke up at two in the morning in agony. His entire arm had swollen up like a balloon. His girlfriend had to drive him to the hospital. The doctor told him that if he had delayed coming to the hospital he would have died of blood poisoning. I always wear gloves when handling structural timber, treated or not, 👍💪🔨🇮🇪
Hey Scott,
I built my deck (15x6m) last year here in Sweden. Decided to go for the screw in foundation. I will never use anything else. Brilliant and easy to install. We get -30 around where I live and I measured it for fun with the laser and receiver last weekend. +/- 2mm difference on the whole deck.
Your Dutch pronunciation is pretty good btw haha. Another word for you regarding your work is : vakmanschap 👌🏻
Sounds like "workmanship". Am I right? If so, I agree 👍
@@JohnPatersonAu yes!
Here in Arkansas we put 4x4 and 6x6 pressure treated lumber in the ground all the time I'm not sure the exact treatment but it works well and lasts a very long time
Great vid and always. I see your subs at 347k, 500k in how many weeks?
I know you're fairly committed to undergrounding the fibre now, but if you wanted to do a zero-cost solution it's worth knowing that the installers generally coil up a few extra meters of the black fibre cable under the house or in the wall, allowing you to pull the slack back out without breaking the cable and reposition the hang point at the top of the roof apex near the mains cable so that it's above head height.
Yeah, that was my thought, there's already some other service arriving up there so why not shift it up.
I think it’s also to remove the ugly conduit running down the outside of the weatherboards
@@0NoQuarter14 or call the utilities company to come bury the power so the ugly above ground cables are gone.
Indeed, my own company has been doing this a lot on a currently ongoing project to install municipal fibre internet for a small town. Many of the residents requested us to install the cables alongside existing utility connections that run to the low point of the roof point of their property. We simply choose to cut the cable long and leave enough slack in the eves or between the ceiling and floorboards of their loft conversion to allow the cable to be pulled back and pinned to the apex and run under the overhang of the roofline if needed. This being precisely because many of the properties are single story dwellings like this so I am certain that at least some of those homes will need to raise the vertical clearance of the cable some day. Sure it will still be a time consuming job even the lightly armoured cable in question needs to be manhandled with some care if you want to drag it through a wall but at least they have the option. Also the cable in question has a propagation speed of ~2/3rd's the speed of light, you don't even get to blink while missing the fraction of a microsecond delay that at most like 10 metres of fibre adds. Fibre cabling has a propagation velocity around 200,000 km/s slower than the speed of light in a vacuum sure but so fast that you would blink and miss the entire planet let alone a small coil of wire in the roof.
@@seraphina985 Still, the lower propagation delay has an impact in certain situations. A company wanted to shave several milliseconds off on a fiber link between the Chicago Board of Trade and the New York Stock exchange. They installed the straightest cable the could, including boring through hills to avoid going over them. Unfortunately for them, another company saw what they were doing and deployed a relatively straight set of microwave radio towers, which avoided the fiber latency, and shaved even more microseconds over the fiber, making it economically unviable.
But, for home internet, a few meters in the attic is nothing compared to the fiber path to the ISP, which is still not going to be noticeable.
Treated wood is wetter than regular timber, so waiting a few months before staining or applying oil is to make sure the moisture level drops to a suitable level (max 16% I think). :)
11:53 The fact she said that whilst, atop your big deck, just made it all the more funny...
It is now 40 years ago working with H6 (burial grade) CCA timber, myself and a five man crew stopped for a mid morning break of donuts and coffee. Of course the nearest thing we had to hand washing was to rub our hands vigorously against our jeans,,,,,
Just contaminated fingers, touching 2 donuts the entire crew was downed by lunch time. I was a few weeks later,, the rookie burning jobsite waste and scrap,, burned the cut offs and I am the one on a tour of the site that got a full whiff of the smoke,,, when I said,, "Gosh, no. Don't burn that stuff." That was the end of my work week as well. We did not use any H6 after those two events. Ya gotta be careful with that stuff. Wash thoroughly after touching,, even undress in the backyard when you get home. DON'T track that stuff into the house where the kids are. And never burn the stuff,, the smoke is toxic.
I live in the US in a Suburb of Chicago. When I had my home built I used CCA wood for my backyard fence. This was in 1993. I've had to replace 2 fence posts due to water infiltration between the cement and the post. 160 feet of fencing. Shows you how well it holds up. Unfortunately I can't purchase it again so I'm hoping it holds up for say 10 more years.
The CC for "deck" keeps getting me in stitches.
Nice job, mstill not sure about the stair placement if it had been at an angle that led to both the flat areas, but it is what it is
Construction pile foam holds in 20 mins and hardens in two hrs. And drying deck for 6 months is a good idea.
My second deck built in ‘89 (22’x18’) has 9 4x6 post 40” by 14”rd down with 4 bags of concrete. 2x12 beams on 8’ with hips supporting 2x10 joist on 16”, with double ledger. Part of those post were used to add a porch swing. Deck gets paint trimmed every two years and stained/oiled every other year, power washed on 6yrs. Only thing replaced is the swing three times. Decks here require railings if the deck is great than 18” above ground, mine is 36” above with vertical cedar skirt. About 3000 #12 ring plated nails, #16 bout 200, many 5/8” galvanized bolts and lag screws.
Last one I built was for my daughter two years ago only need 4x4 post but used construction foam-holes still 36” down in damp clay 👎🏼
Speak nicely to the Chorus installer and they'll often give you some of the fibre cable. If you run it yourself under the deck into the house to your router point they'll do the fibre connector (they have to do it anyway) and then they ignore the "custom install" fee. Have had this twice now. Not sure on the trenching side of it but that should be easy.
Hey Scott, I’m from the UK and for the last few years I’ve been building garden rooms and decking’s on ground screws and they are great if you have the equipment to put them in as it’s quite expensive
Ground screws are the future. Love the effect of the floating steps
Interesting conversation. I live in the US Mid-west. We do not put deck lumber/timber supports or wood building structure into the ground. Termites/Carpenter-Ants/worms and water/fungal rot are problems here. Steel re-inforced concrete piers/pilings/posts are the norm. Our frost line is about 1/2m so to defeat frost heave, the concrete piers are placed a bit over 1m deep with a 25cm concrete inverted mushroom shaped 'footing' at the bottom.
It's not that we do not use ground contact timber for anything at all, but not for building structure. Thanks for the video.
Just used some screw piles for a timber store. They are a pain to install straight, so get the ones which have an slotted plate so you can adjust the bracket. We have Heat Treated timbers for pallets and then Treated Timber for Construction. Generally will not find anyone putting timber in the ground here.
The suggested delay to stain is to allow the compressed grain from the shaper/planer to rebound or fluff and improve absorbancy of the material in addition to chemical bleed off, as you suggest.
The ground screws in North America are referred to as “Helical Piles” and they are awesome.
It's interesting watching this deck get built, makes me consider how I would build a deck. I imagine I wouldn't put it anything in the ground, and plan for adjustments over the years as supports sank or heaved. I've never put a treated post or concrete in the ground, easy in, easy out. But this is a well build deck, set it and forget it.
Our ground doesn't freeze as it doesn't get cold enough so our clay soil is very stable most of the time
Awesome job on the deck!! I live in the USA and I also use treated lumber but I don't care how "Treated" the lumber is, I'm never putting lumber in the ground. It all eventually rots, regardless of how treated it is. I've actually had to convince the wife on multiple occasions that the EXPENSE of concrete and brackets to set the wood off the ground is worth it in the long run. I'll never regret paying more for having my post frame last longer, or the 4x4 posts on the front porch last longer. It's all about water and moisture management. The better it is, the longer the structure lasts.
Yeah, but you simply can't get properly treated wood in the US, even if local codes allowed it. H5 and H6 treated wood in NZ is guaranteed for 50 and 100 years respectively - and in NZ those guarantees are legally binding and easily enforced. It all comes down to what standard you want to build to: a good standard or the US standards.
A awesome job Scott love your work
Those are insane prices for small pieces of steel. Crazy.
CCA was pretty much banned in Europe from 2004. I think the UK stopped in 2006. Fence posts were rubbish for a while but they seem to have found a decent less hazardous alternative. Great deck by the way
Use locust trees for post they last for 50 years.