And more specifically a MacPherson Strut system. Personally always wondered how it works as it manages to mostly keep the wheel geometry throughout the travel range. It just never seemed like it should at first glance, but it does, and it is a lot more flexible around the strut tower than I imagined.
you guys deserve more credit for this. this makes it so much easier to visualize all the parts i hope this can become a regular series for other segments of the vehicle
Stabilizer link > Stabilizer bar bushings > Ball joint > Tie rod end > control arm bushings > Shock absorber mount > Shock absorber > CV joint > Spring > Driveshaft
@@SuperPhunThyme9 No, I launch 600HP through a gearbox designed for 200HP haha. The gearbox can take it, the axles are struggling a little more. But knockoff shafts are €160 each and they last about 100 launches or 5000km of spirited driving. So i swap them pretty much every time i need to swap tyres.
Suspensions are underappreciated until you've gotten right down into that wheel well and replaced everything. Last time for me was three and a-half years ago. Im sorry that i didn't take a picture or two of the cavity that existed before we installed all of the new parts.
@@matthewcurrie5963 It's satisfying to put everything back together, hopefully the right way, then think 'I did that.' Extra satisfying if pieces don't work their way loose or fall off inside of a week. I must have quadruple-checked mine and performed frequent visual inspections for a month or two.
You really do, I've been and done exactly that to my Rover, everything up front has been renewed or replaced. Powdercoated the subframes and the roll bar as well as reundersealing the whole thing.
100% axles too id say, not as often but they are up there on. People drive crazy these days so id say 1 out of eveey 10 cars that come into a shop have a leaky axle boot if not clicking or vibrating
This is actually a good video to show customers if you own a shop. If they’re dealing with a suspension problem you can show they which part and what job it does.
@@Happyh0b0 Spot on. If you've never had a front wheel detach at highway speed due to a ball joint issue, you've probably never driven a Falcon. Regular maintenance is key at the first sign of a ball joint issue on em. Its actuyally odd for a car that can regularly do 800,000 k's without breaking a sweat - but its defnatly got weak ankles.
@@donziperk Lols. I'm sure Ford Australia looked at Dodge and said "hold my beer!" i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii2/PhilMeUpBaby/BF_Falcon_Ball_Joints/Taxi_Wheel_6_22_1_2009.jpg
But they wear so slowly your brain makes slight adjustments and you are not aware of the deterioration of the ride quality until the shock/strut is 100% dead.
@@notbappo2435how do i check if they are ok? I have a q50 with almost 40k miles but there seems to be a pulsing/slight vibration in steering wheel and pedal at about 80mph 😢 idk if its bearings, ball joints or just low brakes ( I definitely have to replace rear pads and possible rotors)
@@Itsyunlo Look at your tires, is the side with the sounds more unevenly worn down? this could indicate a bad balljoint. Is the steering loose, does it feel loose while its driving? as if its wondering around on the road? I'd say though that your balljoints are yes likely going bad especially if you can feel it in the steering wheel. Please, take it in for a check over on specifically the balljoints (and specify the joints only) and refrain from driving the vehicle until you're 100% if its the ball joints or not. When a balljoint fails, its bad and instant, extremely bad if it happens while driving.
@Mitsubishiest lol i noticed it had a single ball joint after commenting but oh wale I'm just used to working on 4wd truck/suv😅leave my childhood name alone okay😂
that’s dope you color coded it and showed us how it works im unsure if i want to take the automotive mechanic route but definitely been thinking about it and this is the type of stuff that helps me learn
So I went to a proper automotive school and still have the textbook that taught how things like this work, jesus this is so much easier to see/explain to someone than anything ever put in any of the textbooks! It's like the old "more spokes" video and similar from that era, just so much better laid out than 99% of stuff!!
If he wants to break something it can be done in 5 seconds. FWD, spin the fuck out of the wheels on full lock, CV should pop right off. We definitely haven't had one of the work's vans drop the CV off several times.
First need to address "breaking" vs "wearing out". Wear is going to happen faster when there is more movement and pressure on said part, as well as something that has more moving parts to it. Springs are a solid piece of metal so unless they are under rated for the job they are likely going to outlast all the other parts since they all have other factors involved. Next just looking I would personally say the Stabilizer bar link because it is constantly moving/twisting and has multiple points of failure. However from experience shocks aren't built to last very long and lose pressure gradually over time, and tie rod ends tend to wear fast as well. At the end if any of the parts are going bad its also going to effect the others wearing out faster because they aren't doing their job fully. If you can afford to change things out at once you might as well do the shocks, stabilizer bar, and tie rod end at the same time since its all going to be easy to get too at once. And now and again be sure to check the lube on the other pieces so they don't dry up.
Look up "metal fatigue". Springs *will* fail eventually unless replaced. They can lose their stiffness or simply break, and I've seen both happen. I've also had shocks go out early, driving on tarmac.
but sabilizer is not doing so much work as other parts. Also if you have lowered or stiff spring car they take a ton of time to go out. My 2 cars have them on for 10 years and combined 40 000km and i just replaced them because it felt that i should and could not get one loose.
If I learned anything about cars over the years, it's that all these components will basically go out all together, and should be replaced all together, otherwise, you just chase your tail, and prematurely break what you already replaced.
On this vehicle since it's front wheel drive, the weak point is usually the shock, usually the shock will cave in first, then if the impact is bad enough it'll typically bend the wheel hub, also if you have a worn out plastic sway bar link, that can shatter.
i gotta say, you did a fantastic job on color coding these and making it colorblind friendly. Adding patterns or designs to colorcoding makes it easier for voloblind such as myself to differentiate parts. Great job!
That's a really cool display of how a front suspension works, but in those driving conditions I wouldn't expect any of them to break. I was expecting washboard roads like we have here in eastern Colorado with peaks 8 to 10 inches tall.
It really is amazing how all these different technologies and mechanical systems work together as one cohesive machine. Cars have gotten so advanced even in the lower end that it actually feels like a single thing, as opposed to a hodgepodge of 1000 different components bolted onto, and around an engine. It’s not until something goes wrong that you realise just how much it was doing.
spring: actually called a coil spring shock absorber: that is a strut, shock absorber is different driveshaft: that is a cv-axle, driveshaft is different steering rod: thats an inner tie rod front control arm: thats a lower control arm I didnt want to be that guy but you have to get terms correct man
This is a great idea to show people what needs to be replaced or how it works I would say most have no idea and explaining it probably makes it more confusing
Not ONE COMMENT About the Worn inner edge of Tire ??? Off Camber Or Out Of Alignment. Tow out can put strain on the steering rack links. Depending on Brand of Vehicle some models have issues with different parts. Like say a weak inter tie rod. If this inner wear is from incorrect camber it would put undue stress on the upper and lower ball joint. The lower taking greater force and usually failing sooner... The Road itself is very mild and should cause no excessive wear to a typical vehicle with no known suspension structural deficiencies.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video, I agree with you about the wear of the tire, and it is already running for the last summer season, after which I will replace it 👍
This totally reminds me of the 64 Chevy SS 327 Impala. I had rebuilt the motor for my friend Ritchie. Immaculate job, painted everything in the engine compartment and engine. He got all 29 colors of model paint and not one nut or bolt head was the same color.
@@opelservicekyiv I'm going to be replacing the inner/ outer rods and maybe the struts as well soon. For now i have to just balance and get an alignment. Thank you again 😊
Assuming all are in good condition, calipers(more less the fluid inside) will overheat and seize before anything else breaks. Those parts typically last AT LEAST 50,000 miles. So a beating it should be able to handle. So long as it has stock performance as well. But brakes are not made to be beat on. You can stomp on them, in an emergency. But you shouldn’t regularly.
I was also under the impression this was a track car. Upon watching it again it looks to be more of a road condition test. In which my input doesn’t make much sense
Of the components listed I’d suspect stabilizer bar first but ball joints and bushings will likely wear away before one of these more crucial components fail....
Looks like pretty normal driving. In my experience, ball joints, end links and tie rod ends can last as little as 1 or 2 years if they were cheap. Most suspension parts are designed for 50k miles.
Thanks for taking the time to colour code those components, nice video!
Thanks a lot
I don't get what's going on.
@george746 Wow. The video is literally like a "Vechile Suspension At Work For Dunmies" 😂😂😂
@@804MRMAN I get the color part.
@@george746 What's the confusing part then?
Colour coding really does make learning easier 😮
**Colorblind people left the chat.**
Can you elucidate what you learnt? I'd be very interested... and I mean very
@@markholmspielvogel2881 "can you elucidate..." ☝🏽🤓
Why leave CV joint out ?, after all you put drives shaft in there
There’s no u in color piece
Of
Trash
Insanely cool way to show someone the workings of a suspension system
Thank you
And more specifically a MacPherson Strut system. Personally always wondered how it works as it manages to mostly keep the wheel geometry throughout the travel range. It just never seemed like it should at first glance, but it does, and it is a lot more flexible around the strut tower than I imagined.
damn the cameraman is hella bold
😀👍
The camera is mounted
Stop with these unoriginal idiot comments
@@03kwam65r/whoosh
@@03kwam65where is the man then?
stabalizer links will make noise but ball joints usually go first, then control arm bushings, then tie rods.
for reals. currently what ‘04 G35 coupe is going thru bouta hit it with a complete suspension overhaul hopefully sooner than later
On European cars, the bushings usually need to be replaced at 60-80k miles and balljoints replaced the next time the bushing is bad
Stabilizer bar true story
Stab link not bar
@@BleedingWhiteKnucklesdepends on which one goes out first. Could be the bar or the link
@@BleedingWhiteKnuckleswhy not both?
@@BleedingWhiteKnuckles my stabilizer bar broke in half one time
Those who know, know 😂
you guys deserve more credit for this. this makes it so much easier to visualize all the parts i hope this can become a regular series for other segments of the vehicle
Thank you so much. Your comment gives motivation for the next videos 👍
Stabilizer link > Stabilizer bar bushings > Ball joint > Tie rod end > control arm bushings > Shock absorber mount > Shock absorber > CV joint > Spring > Driveshaft
My driveshafts tend to break the fastest...
You aren't topping off your driveshaft fluid are you@@Laylander
@@SuperPhunThyme9 No, I launch 600HP through a gearbox designed for 200HP haha. The gearbox can take it, the axles are struggling a little more. But knockoff shafts are €160 each and they last about 100 launches or 5000km of spirited driving. So i swap them pretty much every time i need to swap tyres.
Suspensions are underappreciated until you've gotten right down into that wheel well and replaced everything. Last time for me was three and a-half years ago. Im sorry that i didn't take a picture or two of the cavity that existed before we installed all of the new parts.
Omg yes. I had to replace the whole front suspension in my 2011 silverado. It’s quite spacious in there when all the parts are out of the way😂
@@matthewcurrie5963 It's satisfying to put everything back together, hopefully the right way, then think 'I did that.' Extra satisfying if pieces don't work their way loose or fall off inside of a week. I must have quadruple-checked mine and performed frequent visual inspections for a month or two.
You really do, I've been and done exactly that to my Rover, everything up front has been renewed or replaced. Powdercoated the subframes and the roll bar as well as reundersealing the whole thing.
@@majoriix That feeling of renewal is very satisfying, more so because of knowing you'd seen to it yourself. Best wishes!
I’m in that boot now and it’s a frustrating process
Balljoints and sway bar links are the two things I change the most of and some tie rod ends as well
100% axles too id say, not as often but they are up there on. People drive crazy these days so id say 1 out of eveey 10 cars that come into a shop have a leaky axle boot if not clicking or vibrating
How much the going rate to swap out tie rod ends?
Inner as well?
Sway bars all the timeee
I own multiple commercial trucks and those always break first
@@leojohnwayne1422about $140 in parts for both sides of my jeep
This is actually a good video to show customers if you own a shop. If they’re dealing with a suspension problem you can show they which part and what job it does.
Thanks a lot
I learned more from this than trying to learn from google, this is the simplest video to understand thank you
Thanks for the comment, I tried my best
Control arm bushings specifically in a BMW 🤣
I feel you 🤣🤣 my e90 been hungry for my wallet...
This facts just did mine shit was a bitch gotta do my rear trailing arm bushings too now on my e36
@@sakenitrobought a used e91 and the squeeking is killing me, 12 inch subs masks the sound just fine though😉
@kariej8972 The diff bushings are a bitch 🤣
Brake support bushing or thrust arm bushing 😊
In my RWD BA LTD, it's always the ball joints. Always....
But why. My guess was the tire rod with lateral g force from cornering
@@adrianrivera8425just a ford falcon thing
My 98 3500 Dodge Truck has taught me how to quickly change its ball joints. Weak ass piece of crap design.
@@Happyh0b0 Spot on. If you've never had a front wheel detach at highway speed due to a ball joint issue, you've probably never driven a Falcon. Regular maintenance is key at the first sign of a ball joint issue on em. Its actuyally odd for a car that can regularly do 800,000 k's without breaking a sweat - but its defnatly got weak ankles.
@@donziperk Lols. I'm sure Ford Australia looked at Dodge and said "hold my beer!"
i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii2/PhilMeUpBaby/BF_Falcon_Ball_Joints/Taxi_Wheel_6_22_1_2009.jpg
Can everyone take a second to appreciate the camera placement and durability to hold in pace with no vibrations 🎉
thanks for the comment
Shock absorbers are the most victims to bumpy and rocky roads
But they wear so slowly your brain makes slight adjustments and you are not aware of the deterioration of the ride quality until the shock/strut is 100% dead.
*stabilizer bar has left the chat*
yeah they're usually the last on the list to fail
Balljoints always, if you've ever replaced a balljoint you'll see how tiny those shafts are.
i bet ur shaft is tiny with the balls out of the way
One might consider the size to be quite normal.
@@9ZERO6 Some would even say above average.
Others would say size doesn't matter at all.
This is why God gave you 5 articulating fingers...and a fist for emergencies@@Mucky_Muck
You guys unequivocally have the best automotive shorts.
Thank you my friend. I am very pleased
The guy that was filming did a really good job
Thanks a lot
Thankyou using colours to indicate those different parts soo clearly
salute dawg
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
Ball joints will definitely be the first to go bad
Is that the same thing if you have wheel spacers also?
@@Fordfocusstmk3250 I've heard especially if you have wheel spacers yes.
@@notbappo2435how do i check if they are ok? I have a q50 with almost 40k miles but there seems to be a pulsing/slight vibration in steering wheel and pedal at about 80mph 😢 idk if its bearings, ball joints or just low brakes ( I definitely have to replace rear pads and possible rotors)
@@notbappo2435 ty dude
@@Itsyunlo Look at your tires, is the side with the sounds more unevenly worn down? this could indicate a bad balljoint. Is the steering loose, does it feel loose while its driving? as if its wondering around on the road? I'd say though that your balljoints are yes likely going bad especially if you can feel it in the steering wheel. Please, take it in for a check over on specifically the balljoints (and specify the joints only) and refrain from driving the vehicle until you're 100% if its the ball joints or not. When a balljoint fails, its bad and instant, extremely bad if it happens while driving.
Usually a ball joint
This is a fwd so no ball joints in sight
@@AllTerpsNoBrakeswhat is the hub pivoting on then, thin air?
Don't comment on shit ya have no idea about bud go back to being a beast on ur ps3
@Mitsubishiest lol i noticed it had a single ball joint after commenting but oh wale I'm just used to working on 4wd truck/suv😅leave my childhood name alone okay😂
@@AllTerpsNoBrakes 🤣🤣🤣🤣 all good man 👌
that’s dope you color coded it and showed us how it works im unsure if i want to take the automotive mechanic route but definitely been thinking about it and this is the type of stuff that helps me learn
Thank you very much, I'm glad you liked it
Duuuuuuddddeeee! New knowledge unlocked. I always forget the auspension isnt just shocks and springs. Ill never forget again
Thank you
Stab links are usually the weakest point in McPherson strut suspension.
Forgot the axle grease😂
Impressed with the colors and it's clean af!
Thanks a lot
So I went to a proper automotive school and still have the textbook that taught how things like this work, jesus this is so much easier to see/explain to someone than anything ever put in any of the textbooks!
It's like the old "more spokes" video and similar from that era, just so much better laid out than 99% of stuff!!
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
taht is actually kinda cool highlighting the different parts and seeing what they do in motion...
Thank you
with that driving, I'll say the fuel, and in a long time, the road looks smooth and neat
If he wants to break something it can be done in 5 seconds. FWD, spin the fuck out of the wheels on full lock, CV should pop right off.
We definitely haven't had one of the work's vans drop the CV off several times.
First need to address "breaking" vs "wearing out". Wear is going to happen faster when there is more movement and pressure on said part, as well as something that has more moving parts to it.
Springs are a solid piece of metal so unless they are under rated for the job they are likely going to outlast all the other parts since they all have other factors involved.
Next just looking I would personally say the Stabilizer bar link because it is constantly moving/twisting and has multiple points of failure.
However from experience shocks aren't built to last very long and lose pressure gradually over time, and tie rod ends tend to wear fast as well.
At the end if any of the parts are going bad its also going to effect the others wearing out faster because they aren't doing their job fully.
If you can afford to change things out at once you might as well do the shocks, stabilizer bar, and tie rod end at the same time since its all going to be easy to get too at once. And now and again be sure to check the lube on the other pieces so they don't dry up.
thank you for sharing your experience 👍👍👍
Look up "metal fatigue". Springs *will* fail eventually unless replaced. They can lose their stiffness or simply break, and I've seen both happen. I've also had shocks go out early, driving on tarmac.
Dyum as a semi car guy thank you for coloring the parts made me learn the new thing of the day
You're welcome, I'm glad you liked it
Stabilizer bar link feels like something that could easely break. But it looks easy to replace if it starts to become bruised.
In my case it was the lower control arm. Luckily it wasn't the section closer to the wheel, otherwise I might not have made it home.
Stabilizer! Always, remember the thinnest connection, and part always breaks.
but sabilizer is not doing so much work as other parts. Also if you have lowered or stiff spring car they take a ton of time to go out. My 2 cars have them on for 10 years and combined 40 000km and i just replaced them because it felt that i should and could not get one loose.
@@arva1kesyou barely drive them huh?
If I learned anything about cars over the years, it's that all these components will basically go out all together, and should be replaced all together, otherwise, you just chase your tail, and prematurely break what you already replaced.
Thanks for the comment, great
Finally get to see it all working together outside of animations 🙌🏽🙌🏽
Thanks a lot
Stabilizer bar link
On this vehicle since it's front wheel drive, the weak point is usually the shock, usually the shock will cave in first, then if the impact is bad enough it'll typically bend the wheel hub, also if you have a worn out plastic sway bar link, that can shatter.
Thanks a lot
That's amazing how understandable this whole configuration becomes when you see the color code
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
i gotta say, you did a fantastic job on color coding these and making it colorblind friendly. Adding patterns or designs to colorcoding makes it easier for voloblind such as myself to differentiate parts. Great job!
Thank you very much, it's a pleasure
The stabilizer link will wear out first, not much actually breaks.
Really?
On any car?
How many miles until you notice?
Been replacing all of that shit
Simple! The first one of course!
Suspension rebuilds are my favorite. It's easy as cake and satisfying asf
Thank you
Sway bar links seem to go bad most often.
Driver legs😂😂
👍👍😀
Lol
Used to work in a shop as a young apprentice, ive seen way more broken tie rod ends and stabilizer bar links than anything else with the suspension
That's a really cool display of how a front suspension works, but in those driving conditions I wouldn't expect any of them to break. I was expecting washboard roads like we have here in eastern Colorado with peaks 8 to 10 inches tall.
Thanks for the comment, great. I thought only in our country bad roads.
Tie rods are always the first to go
thanks for the comment
Agreed my tie rods went away first , just had a mechanic check , next one would be stab link
Tie rod
It really is amazing how all these different technologies and mechanical systems work together as one cohesive machine. Cars have gotten so advanced even in the lower end that it actually feels like a single thing, as opposed to a hodgepodge of 1000 different components bolted onto, and around an engine. It’s not until something goes wrong that you realise just how much it was doing.
Fully agree with you 👍
The tire lmao
You aren't wrong acutally.
I’ll go for stabiliser
Finally! An educational YT short video.
Thank you
Stabilizing bar for sure. Now do one of these after a strutt change and no alignment so some people understand why it keeps failing.
Sway bar link
Try it in the uk roads, that one looks silky smooth
Indonesian roads would obliterate any car that dares test it's power😂
And UK roads won't?😂
Tie rod ends are usually first to go along with sway bar end links
"Everything I learned about cars I learned from a CZcams shorts video, sir!"
"...Welcome to Ford Motors, son! Glad to have you on board!"
Thank you very much, glad you liked it
That tire is going first !!!!
spring: actually called a coil spring
shock absorber: that is a strut, shock absorber is different
driveshaft: that is a cv-axle, driveshaft is different
steering rod: thats an inner tie rod
front control arm: thats a lower control arm
I didnt want to be that guy but you have to get terms correct man
I was about to post this
Might be a translation error.
This is a great idea to show people what needs to be replaced or how it works I would say most have no idea and explaining it probably makes it more confusing
Thanks for the comment
Do more of this, my friend. Very helpful the way you color coordinated everything
Thank you my friend
YELLOW LOOKS LIKE A WEAK POINT
Not ONE COMMENT About the Worn inner edge of Tire ???
Off Camber Or Out Of Alignment.
Tow out can put strain on the steering rack links. Depending on Brand of Vehicle some models have issues with different parts. Like say a weak inter tie rod.
If this inner wear is from incorrect camber it would put undue stress on the upper and lower ball joint. The lower taking greater force and usually failing sooner...
The Road itself is very mild and should cause no excessive wear to a typical vehicle with no known suspension structural deficiencies.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video, I agree with you about the wear of the tire, and it is already running for the last summer season, after which I will replace it 👍
Swaybar links are usually first to go with potholes followed by the balljoints.
Thanks for the comment, great
Respect for the effort. We can clearly learn this way
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
white = lower control arm
red & white = axle shaft from transmission, assuming this is fwd
also should specify this is MacPherson strut
Thank you
Anyone who’s looked under a car twice will know it’s a macpherson lol he should’ve shown a double control arm setup instead to show the difference
Definitely stabilizer bar, happened to me more than once 😁
This totally reminds me of the 64 Chevy SS 327 Impala. I had rebuilt the motor for my friend Ritchie. Immaculate job, painted everything in the engine compartment and engine. He got all 29 colors of model paint and not one nut or bolt head was the same color.
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate your experience 👍
Stabilizer link will absorb the hard hits to the strut in case y’all didn’t know
Great job coloring the material, learning shortvideos on CZcams are rare. To fully appreciate it, maybe make the legend last a bit longer? 🙂
Thank you, I will work in this direction 👍
I'm having similar issues in my car that I'm dealing with. This puts it in such an easy perspective 😅 thank you 🙌🏼
I am very glad that you found this video useful 👍
@@opelservicekyiv I'm going to be replacing the inner/ outer rods and maybe the struts as well soon. For now i have to just balance and get an alignment. Thank you again 😊
For me, the most fascinating things is truly tires. How rubbers can withstanding all those forces is truly a marvel and a feat in engineering.
Fully agree with you
Bro turned his suspension into an m&m enticement video.
Thanks for commenting and watching the video
The most common are your tie rods, swaybar links and your ball joints
Assuming all are in good condition, calipers(more less the fluid inside) will overheat and seize before anything else breaks. Those parts typically last AT LEAST 50,000 miles. So a beating it should be able to handle. So long as it has stock performance as well. But brakes are not made to be beat on. You can stomp on them, in an emergency. But you shouldn’t regularly.
I was also under the impression this was a track car. Upon watching it again it looks to be more of a road condition test. In which my input doesn’t make much sense
Ball joints usually go out first especially if there is no grease in them. Not shown.
How about the blue bolt against the frame connecting the green torsion bar to the yellow stabilizer bar.
From the hundreds of cars I’ve serviced, it’s usually sway links or the tie rods first. It’s not 100% but most of the time
Sway bar links for sure. You’ll here them after time for sure
Of the components listed I’d suspect stabilizer bar first but ball joints and bushings will likely wear away before one of these more crucial components fail....
1) Ball joint, 2) Stabilizer bar bushings.
Thank you 👍
Thank you for the colour codes!
Thank you
I don't know which one but I definitely just have learn every single part names. Thanks!
Thank you, you are always welcome
Looks like pretty normal driving. In my experience, ball joints, end links and tie rod ends can last as little as 1 or 2 years if they were cheap. Most suspension parts are designed for 50k miles.
Oh this is AWESOME to teach high schoolers car components.
I'm glad you liked it
Straight line driving? Probably the shock/strut. Unless we’re including the bushings.
In that case, the stabilizer bar link might go sooner
That driving looked pretty tame. I say the swaybar links then ball joints.
ok, thank you
bro made his whole ass suspension look like a doohickey
Shock absorber workin like a demon
Thanks for the comment, great
Never knew what these were called til now. Thank you
You're welcome
the "steering rod" is also known as the inner tie rod if anyone's confused by that 🤷♂️
Thank you
Tye absorbers are the ones that usually go out first
But if not that then it had to be the tie rod if the car gets smashed around more
The sway bar links usually break first
"Nope it's holding strong, We can shave 30¢ off it"
Thanks for the reminder. Cattletraps with no bars for the wheels Def took some mileage off mine
Thanks for the comment, great
Ох, макферсон расписали, спасибо, он же так сложно устроен))) хотя самой главной его "фишки" на видео нет.
Старались то что попадет в камеру. Спасибо 👍
been working at the workshop and mostly the stabilizer bar always broke first when inspecting the suspension
That's some sick content for the curious, Opel!