Working on my wife 's 2010 mini Cooper right now. It's exhibiting the same exact problem as this one in your video. Pretty sure the junction box needs to be replaced due to water damage from a recent rain. Is there any way to temporarily get power to the fuel pump just so I can move the car a short distance? Will the car start if I power the fuel pump from a separate power source? I was thinking maybe powering it from the F46 fuel pump fuse? Should that work?
Yep, jump power and ground. Dodge has a relay bypass kit for their dodge vans . If your mechanically inclined, you can do the same thing with the mini. But if you got water ingress, resolve ingress and repair damage
@@eurowerx4267 Thanks. Yesterday I tried jumping power to the WHT/BLU power pin on the pump from terminal 30 of the fuel pump relay socket (with the relay removed of course). Then I grounded the ground pin with a separate wire to a stud in the back seat area. I heard the fuel pump run but when I went to start the car it wouldn't crank. Got nothing. Maybe because the fuel pump relay was removed? I'll try tapping power off of the f46 fuse directly instead. Hopefully that will work! If you know of a relay bypass kit for the mini, I'm all ears. Oh also can the junction box be removed with the battery terminals connected? I had the footwell module reflashed in her car a while back. The company said if I ever disconnected the battery that the module would go back to an error state and I would have to get it replaced again. 🙄
@@amsa6750 Same with mine. I got power directly to the fuel pump from fuse F46. I installed an inline switch as well. Put the key in and flipped the switch to power the pump. I could hear it running. Tried starting it. Cranks but won't start. Let me know if you figure it out.
Just bought 2013 Cooper at auction. Won’t start, getting clicks, new battery installed. Everything powers up, just won’t start. I was looking at a similar vid about the relays & junction boxes. What should I ask the mechanic to look at or do when I tow it in? Is there anything else I can do myself?
Auction cars are the worst! Could be anything. I’d start with making sure the engine isn’t seized. Put a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt and make sure it turns over freely. Find someone who specializes in the Mini product!
Rapid clicks coming from the fusebox is a sign of a bad immobilizer aka CAS. That module can be cloned if it's still communicating. Also, check the obd codes. For further help, find me on faceboom mini.tobe.7
any idea where i can find a video that shows how to remove and replace that fuse box?
Working on my wife 's 2010 mini Cooper right now. It's exhibiting the same exact problem as this one in your video. Pretty sure the junction box needs to be replaced due to water damage from a recent rain. Is there any way to temporarily get power to the fuel pump just so I can move the car a short distance? Will the car start if I power the fuel pump from a separate power source? I was thinking maybe powering it from the F46 fuel pump fuse? Should that work?
Yep, jump power and ground.
Dodge has a relay bypass kit for their dodge vans . If your mechanically inclined, you can do the same thing with the mini. But if you got water ingress, resolve ingress and repair damage
@@eurowerx4267 Thanks. Yesterday I tried jumping power to the WHT/BLU power pin on the pump from terminal 30 of the fuel pump relay socket (with the relay removed of course). Then I grounded the ground pin with a separate wire to a stud in the back seat area. I heard the fuel pump run but when I went to start the car it wouldn't crank. Got nothing. Maybe because the fuel pump relay was removed? I'll try tapping power off of the f46 fuse directly instead. Hopefully that will work! If you know of a relay bypass kit for the mini, I'm all ears.
Oh also can the junction box be removed with the battery terminals connected? I had the footwell module reflashed in her car a while back. The company said if I ever disconnected the battery that the module would go back to an error state and I would have to get it replaced again. 🙄
I got the same failure. Tryed to start with seperate power to the fuelpump. But it wont start there is no fuel reaching the injectors. Do u know why?
@@amsa6750 Same with mine. I got power directly to the fuel pump from fuse F46. I installed an inline switch as well. Put the key in and flipped the switch to power the pump. I could hear it running. Tried starting it. Cranks but won't start. Let me know if you figure it out.
Changed the Junctionbox with a used one still no power to fuelpump...
was this followed by any error codes?
No codes, typically relay failures don’t trigger a fault code. When you have multiple circuits powered by relays that’s when you see the fault codes.
Just bought 2013 Cooper at auction. Won’t start, getting clicks, new battery installed. Everything powers up, just won’t start. I was looking at a similar vid about the relays & junction boxes. What should I ask the mechanic to look at or do when I tow it in? Is there anything else I can do myself?
Auction cars are the worst! Could be anything. I’d start with making sure the engine isn’t seized. Put a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt and make sure it turns over freely. Find someone who specializes in the Mini product!
Rapid clicks coming from the fusebox is a sign of a bad immobilizer aka CAS. That module can be cloned if it's still communicating. Also, check the obd codes. For further help, find me on faceboom mini.tobe.7