Maintaining a Cast Iron Table Saw Top
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- With as much use as a table saw gets, the cast iron top can start to show some wear and tear from spilled glue, stains, and even rust spots. Designer, John Doyle, had enough and gave the shop table saw a little TLC. See what he uses to make the saw look like new again and stay that way.
Sources for products seen in this video:
Carbide Scraper: amzn.to/2J3EOth
Sand-Flex Sanding Blocks: amzn.to/31EXN3J
400 Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper: amzn.to/35BpdZE
WD40: amzn.to/2TzOyxv
Finish Sander: amzn.to/3jq7okU
Paste Wax: amzn.to/3kqSDj3
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Absolute best solution I have come up with is a large piece of heavy clear vinyl (like you can by in the craft section of Walmart) to cover the top of my saw. I use it as a work surface all the time and the vinyl is 100% water/liquid proof (painting, spraying, or finishing is a breeze), glue doesn't stick to it well and will peel off when dry, and it also provides a somewhat slip resistant surface to keep pieces from moving around when sanding or assembling.
The vinyl is easy to fold/roll up and store. The piece I have, I've probably had it for close to 15 years and it still works as good as ever.
Seems like a great solution - Thanks for the tip.
Exactly what I do. Works great. Sometimes you find these vinyl sheets for free, left-overs from large convention signs and similar stuff.
Great video, you go a couple steps further than i, which i may adopt. Like the sheet of 1/4” idea. Good video. Thank you
I used an orbital sander with steel wool . It worked great. Of course I don't use the top for a glue table in the first place.
I admit that it is not the best practice to use the table saw as an assembly table but desperate times call for desperate measures. :)
Watch for knots in your table top, or odd grain patterns.
As a former machinest we used blancher grinders that removed metal in a circular motion so we didn't create high and low spots nad got a leval flat surface.
That block looks like it works well.
But ive always used wd40 and 000 steel wool and do it wet. I dont think id ever use a carbid scraper becuse you can put a groove in the top your safer not using somthing to scrap and just using somthing to dissolve the over spray. Better yet dont get any on the table to start with and never finnish or glue up on your saw and don't set your drink on it.
Just keep it waxed or whatever. And cover it when not in use.
You can always use a random orbital sander with 3000 grit they use in body shops. Also if you must do finnish work of glue ups use a cover board like luan sheet or wax paper. Or even foil.
Its too ez to cover it then deal with a problem later.
You're absolutely right about not putting drinks, water, glue, stain, etc. on your top in the first place. Prevention is worth a pound of cure. Those were all done on an extra cast iron wing we had laying around to show worst cast scenarios and how it could be salvaged. Even though I made that water ring on the scrap piece it still pained my heart to do it. :)
I always used automotive wax for the finishing touch. Like the hardboard cover👍🏻
Thank you kindly for that tip
A little steel wool and penetrating oil works wonders!
Absolutely! That's why it'd be smart to invest in a steel sheep for the unlimited steel wool. ;)
Before 5:33 apply boiled linseed oil. Let it dry, and wipe it off.
I've always been told to use acetone to do a final wipe prior to the paste wax to remove the leftover impurities and the oily residue from the WD-40. Meqguires makes a cleaner paste wax that works very well. Can't find the Johnson's paste wax anymore.
Thanks for sharing
Metal definitely DOES have grain.
Paste Wax is the better choice. Dirt cheap by comparison and at least as good.
Yeah, I really like paste wax. I keep it around the shop because there are so many uses for it.
really cool content Woodsmith. I crushed the thumbs up on your video. Maintain up the quality work.
Start at 4:15 and save yourself some steps.
" Think about the mistakes you've made in your life" ROFL - that's awesome! Great video - thank you!
May i suggest you use Interflon fin super instead of the WD40 and wax as it is a dry lube, so use it as a lube for your sandpaper and then spray on as a coating to protect, wipe off any excess with a cloth.
thanks
If you also want a really slippery surface then use Interflon slide wax, which will also protect and stop glue from sticking, Amazon use this on their sliding chutes
Great - I'll check it out.
@@WoodsmithShowandmagazine where are you located maybe able to get you some free trials of the products
Mark Smith - Des Moines, IA
Thanks for the tips. I just use a large piece of cardboard on top when I'm using it as a work surface. It's free :)
I drop a sheet of thin mdf on it that I’ve had for a while. Prevents most of these issues 😁
Yeah, I like to hang on to any appliance box or large piece of cardboard. It is like gold around the shop - great for covering the table saw, workbench, or floor for messy jobs.
I've been useing car wax/polish. It's been working but I'm always open to better stuff
Just what I needed...wax. In this subtropical zone of southeastern Louisiana every time I clean the rust off my tablesaw it comes back because the cold metal condenses moisture out of the humid air. I finally gave up and if I'm cutting boards that must remain rust-stain free I lay down strips of 2 inch wide tape with the "grain." The trouble with that is that after awhile the tape gets torn and worn and stuck to the metal such that I have to scrape it off and scrub the adhesive off with solvent. So...wax. So simple. Also, I have a piece of Luan a foot larger than the saw-table on all sides that I cover the saw with when I'm staining or painting. Originally I used an oilcloth table-cloth but spiders moved in under it every time it was left on for a few days. The Luan doesn't have that problem and resides vertically against the saw-stand when not needed.
Try Interflon fin super, this will stop the rusting
Over coat with interflon slide wax
@@MarkSmith-yu4ue expensive stuff.
@@choimdachoim9491 not when you think about the cost of your saw and table, also a 500ml can of each will last years
@@MarkSmith-yu4ue Maybe so but I'll try something more reasonable first. My only concern is that the wax might rub off onto the wood and interfere with stains and finishes.
“Think about the mistakes you’ve made in your life.” 😂😂😂
I really wish you had done the whole top! Only half doing something when you have the magic of editing is...grrrr. :) Also, I know metal has grain...especially cast iron, wrought iron, stainless steel and some rolled steels.
I was leaving half undone to highlight the contrast from start to finish but yeah, I guess we could have just done a split screen edit too.
I left a 1x4 on my saw for about 2 weeks (downtime out of the shop). When I came back, (eek!) there was rust where my board was! Will the board you put on top cause the same problem as my 1x4? Or is it different because it's MDF?
I want to make a bar using angle iron for the frame but I’m concerned about it rusting. Would you recommend the paste wax? I assume it doesn’t attract dust.
But lets say you bought a used abused saw, all these tips come in handy to bring it back, if its badly pitted you can take it apart and send it off to be resurfaced flat send all parts at the same time so they are even. If you have a saw that cost 2k new the 300+- you spend on this might be worth it to bring it back. If you only spent 500 on the saw your still saving 1200 dollars. I doubt you can scrap a top in the wood shop that can't be fixed in a machine shop.
Absolutely. There are a lot of great used tools out there that just need a little TLC to get them looking and running like new again.
I don't agree using anything abrasive on any cast iron, especially a table saw. If not done evenly, over time it will lead to peaks & valleys. Thus providing inconsistent cuts.
Pitch cleaner seems to work the best. Finish off with paste wax. I apply paste wax at least 2 times a year.
Wow 🤓🤓🤓 🧨🧨🧨
Please stop sniffing.
Sorry, I'm allergic to elbow grease. :)