Hello. Groovy videos.. I was an Aircraft Handler in the Navy and our tugs not only had to have enough power to pull a plane, they had to be heavy as hell to have enough traction.. A JG-75 Tow Tractor (smaller than a compact car) weighed over 30,000 lbs. Your plane's not very heavy but that little guy your trying to move it with just ain't heavy enough... You also need a long enough tow bar for leverage that can connects to and steer the wheel.
Shortening the height of the rails could help. If you did get it turned around it would change the weight distribution some. Also - how about not making it self loading. One of those ratchet straps could be used to winch the wheel on board and secure it. In the end it really doesn't seem to have the pulling power to move the weight of a plane - on the flat. Maybe it could just be an assist for hills/hangar entrances. That means you might need a control stick cable that would run all the way to the prop.
How about a longer, less steep ramp from the other end? The ramp would come between the free swiveling wheels. The stopping point for the tail wheel could be right up next to the post and the chock block. This could also possibly solve the issue of have the Jazzy turning the correct direction for tugging. The biggest thing would be the attempt to get the majority of the weight that you are carrying as close to the post as possible. Also, does the post go up or down? If this is actuated, could it be used to adjust the ramp angle?
Hi I just came across your video on the arch shed. After spending money on portable shed from the big building stores and have them to claps. I live in upper Mi and we do get a lot of snow. So I'm thinking about trying make one. But smaller. My husband passed and now I have the responsibility to take care of the 48 willys jeep. Yep I'm 64 and I think this will solve my problem.
What if you made the ramp come up from the other side, the back? That would put the tail wheel at the CG of the Jazzy, but you wouldn't have to modify the post. It might also give you a less steep angle of attack for the wheel to have to climb. W = Fxd, so lengthen the distance to reduce the force.
If you had a bigger everything and decent ballast on the trolly just hook capturing the wheel upper would do it. Or perhaps trolly pull from the front as you would a sled pulk harness. I just don't see that scooter base cutting it.
I agree. Extended the channel further back so the wheel can rest midway over the main body. This will allow the weight to be distributed by all four wheels. As well flare the top portion of the channel, this will allow for a better run up without being sloppy. You should then be able to put a pin through the channel behind the wheel to act as a chock.
You need more even distribution of weight. Think of it like this, when there was a seat on that thing most of the weight would be on the post. But the center of balance would be on the OTHER side of the post. Which means that is where the wheel should be. Perhaps a longer ramp where on the top there is a flat spot past the post. Maybe even use the post as a sleeve that the ramp can pivot in.
It seems to me that a lazy Susan under the tire rail so it can rotate once the wheel is in place and chocked. the wheel should stop over the center point of gravity on the cart. BTY, how is your shed working out?
You could make the ramp hinged with a spring underneath (did you save any bed springs?) And then have the top of the hinge attached to a flat channel slightly forward of the wheels. I would also use a straight bar across to lock the wheel in place. You could make a series of holes to accomodate different sized wheels.
I agree with Shiretook, and think a redesign, where the ramp comes up from the opposite end of the Jazzy could place the plane wheel right in the middle of the cart, over the CG. I don't know if there is structure to support a ramp coming from the opposite direction, but I think it may be worth investigating. Also, this avoids the need for ballast.
No failures mate, you got to test things to see what need tweaking! 👌🏽 Getting there. 👍🏽 It seems things would go much smoother if only you could get that wheel on the other side of the chair post that's still attached, so it sits in the middle and no more wheelie's...🤔
you have the most interesting projects Zack. I look at your posts first. My thoughts are to forget loading the wheel on and lift it at the spring or where the spring is fixed to the frame, maybe with a jack or a 2 piece stiff-leg thing like A briefcase has to hold the cover open.Just some A thought.
Looks like if you tried coming at the wheel from under the tail, the pivot point of the wheel would be more centered on the scooter wheels. Also I believe that if the (rail?) was longer it would have less incline and take less force to pick up the weight. Just my thoughts. Worth what you paid for it. Please keep trying. It's interesting. 😎
Thanks Preston, I actually have tried that with a tow bar I made (I neglected to film it) Works ok but what I was going for was an inexpensive DIY copy of the towbots you see from Besttugs. Something us lower budget guys could use.
Your channel needed to be longer, so that airplane's wheel to end up right in the middle of the scooter. No tipping then, because of better distribution of weight
I agree. Extended the channel further back so the wheel can rest midway over the main body as well as flaring the top portion of the channel, will allow for a better balance. You should then be able to put a pin through the channel behind the wheel to act as a chock.
I'm new here, but I agree with these fine people. Cut that seat tube down a bit and make it the pivot point for the ramp. After reaching the apex, the plane will naturally slope down to a stop in the middle of the four wheels. Perhaps have spring loaded latch system that automatically chocks the wheel when in the loaded position. Second thought... that ramp needs to be longer to increase the mechanical advantage of the motors when lifting the plane. A two part ramp would do well. Fold it down and lock in with a pin, load the plane as described in the first part, the fold the ramp back up to act as the wheel stop! I'm getting excited and I don't even know why I'm here!
Other issue is trying to turn while being stationary.... Think of a 4 wheel swiveling dolly used to move around heavy stuff. It hard to turn on a dime but if you have momentum in any direction it will allow for much less force needed to turn / pivot
I might not have all the data, but drive the wheel up onto the cart more. Put the pivot directly over the cart axel. It will spin freely and the offset wheel will help distribute the weight. I have a jazzy 600 and it could tow a boat trailer. Also, make it RC
Your ramp needs to be MUCH longer. Like double long. The pivot of the tail wheel has to be on top of the traction wheels. You need to cut the chair support for that. Smaller and thiner traction wheels will help with hp and traction. And oh yes, bed frames are always handy.
You probably should have left the whole thing intact so the weight of your body gave it some traction when sitting in the seat. Just use a rubber tie down to hook the plane to the chair to haul it around, or something to that effect. Your intellect is admirable, but a simpler approach may be better.
Hello. Groovy videos.. I was an Aircraft Handler in the Navy and our tugs not only had to have enough power to pull a plane, they had to be heavy as hell to have enough traction.. A JG-75 Tow Tractor (smaller than a compact car) weighed over 30,000 lbs. Your plane's not very heavy but that little guy your trying to move it with just ain't heavy enough... You also need a long enough tow bar for leverage that can connects to and steer the wheel.
Your not the only one to save bed frames. Picked that habit to save scraps and materials from my grandfather.
Yes - but I cut back to 3. Garage door tracks are also nice.
I love gathering and saving old metal bed rails. Great source of angle iron when you’re broke.
Great vid Zack. Even setbacks and failures typically yield valuable lessons.
Shortening the height of the rails could help. If you did get it turned around it would change the weight distribution some. Also - how about not making it self loading. One of those ratchet straps could be used to winch the wheel on board and secure it. In the end it really doesn't seem to have the pulling power to move the weight of a plane - on the flat. Maybe it could just be an assist for hills/hangar entrances. That means you might need a control stick cable that would run all the way to the prop.
How about a longer, less steep ramp from the other end? The ramp would come between the free swiveling wheels. The stopping point for the tail wheel could be right up next to the post and the chock block. This could also possibly solve the issue of have the Jazzy turning the correct direction for tugging. The biggest thing would be the attempt to get the majority of the weight that you are carrying as close to the post as possible. Also, does the post go up or down? If this is actuated, could it be used to adjust the ramp angle?
Hi I just came across your video on the arch shed. After spending money on portable shed from the big building stores and have them to claps. I live in upper Mi and we do get a lot of snow. So I'm thinking about trying make one.
But smaller. My husband passed and now I have the responsibility to take care of the 48 willys jeep. Yep I'm 64 and I think this will solve my problem.
What HAPPENED! Did you ever succeed?
PART 4?
Personally I think you need a totally different design, but I love the idea of repurposing the chair.
I think you need a lever arm, cam actuated lift, for the wheel axel, not the tire, you can get closer with that.
What if you made the ramp come up from the other side, the back? That would put the tail wheel at the CG of the Jazzy, but you wouldn't have to modify the post. It might also give you a less steep angle of attack for the wheel to have to climb. W = Fxd, so lengthen the distance to reduce the force.
If you had a bigger everything and decent ballast on the trolly just hook capturing the wheel upper would do it. Or perhaps trolly pull from the front as you would a sled pulk harness. I just don't see that scooter base cutting it.
I agree. Extended the channel further back so the wheel can rest midway over the main body. This will allow the weight to be distributed by all four wheels. As well flare the top portion of the channel, this will allow for a better run up without being sloppy. You should then be able to put a pin through the channel behind the wheel to act as a chock.
You need more even distribution of weight. Think of it like this, when there was a seat on that thing most of the weight would be on the post. But the center of balance would be on the OTHER side of the post. Which means that is where the wheel should be.
Perhaps a longer ramp where on the top there is a flat spot past the post. Maybe even use the post as a sleeve that the ramp can pivot in.
It seems to me that a lazy Susan under the tire rail so it can rotate once the wheel is in place and chocked. the wheel should stop over the center point of gravity on the cart. BTY, how is your shed working out?
I'm enjoying this Zack.
You could make the ramp hinged with a spring underneath (did you save any bed springs?) And then have the top of the hinge attached to a flat channel slightly forward of the wheels. I would also use a straight bar across to lock the wheel in place. You could make a series of holes to accomodate different sized wheels.
I agree with Shiretook, and think a redesign, where the ramp comes up from the opposite end of the Jazzy could place the plane wheel right in the middle of the cart, over the CG. I don't know if there is structure to support a ramp coming from the opposite direction, but I think it may be worth investigating. Also, this avoids the need for ballast.
No failures mate, you got to test things to see what need tweaking! 👌🏽
Getting there. 👍🏽
It seems things would go much smoother if only you could get that wheel on the other side of the chair post that's still attached, so it sits in the middle and no more wheelie's...🤔
you have the most interesting projects Zack. I look at your posts first. My thoughts are to forget loading the wheel on and lift it at the spring or where the spring is fixed to the frame, maybe with a jack or a 2 piece stiff-leg thing like A briefcase has to hold the cover open.Just some A thought.
Looks like if you tried coming at the wheel from under the tail, the pivot point of the wheel would be more centered on the scooter wheels. Also I believe that if the (rail?) was longer it would have less incline and take less force to pick up the weight. Just my thoughts. Worth what you paid for it. Please keep trying. It's interesting. 😎
Cool build. Was there a reason you didn't have it connect to the axle like other tow bars?
Thanks Preston, I actually have tried that with a tow bar I made (I neglected to film it) Works ok but what I was going for was an inexpensive DIY copy of the towbots you see from Besttugs. Something us lower budget guys could use.
Enjoyed this
Your channel needed to be longer, so that airplane's wheel to end up right in the middle of the scooter. No tipping then, because of better distribution of weight
I agree. Extended the channel further back so the wheel can rest midway over the main body as well as flaring the top portion of the channel, will allow for a better balance. You should then be able to put a pin through the channel behind the wheel to act as a chock.
That's essentially the same comment I was going to make.
I'm new here, but I agree with these fine people. Cut that seat tube down a bit and make it the pivot point for the ramp. After reaching the apex, the plane will naturally slope down to a stop in the middle of the four wheels. Perhaps have spring loaded latch system that automatically chocks the wheel when in the loaded position.
Second thought... that ramp needs to be longer to increase the mechanical advantage of the motors when lifting the plane. A two part ramp would do well. Fold it down and lock in with a pin, load the plane as described in the first part, the fold the ramp back up to act as the wheel stop!
I'm getting excited and I don't even know why I'm here!
Other issue is trying to turn while being stationary.... Think of a 4 wheel swiveling dolly used to move around heavy stuff. It hard to turn on a dime but if you have momentum in any direction it will allow for much less force needed to turn / pivot
I might not have all the data, but drive the wheel up onto the cart more. Put the pivot directly over the cart axel. It will spin freely and the offset wheel will help distribute the weight. I have a jazzy 600 and it could tow a boat trailer. Also, make it RC
ramp on the other side and a few inches off the ground?
Haha, I stopped and picked up a bed frame from the curb just to stick it in the "parts pile" behind my garage.
Your ramp needs to be MUCH longer. Like double long. The pivot of the tail wheel has to be on top of the traction wheels. You need to cut the chair support for that. Smaller and thiner traction wheels will help with hp and traction. And oh yes, bed frames are always handy.
Keep up with it you are almost there
Turn it around and drive in forward? could put weight as well?
Stay after it Zack---
Would it be too much weight to make a little counterweight platform and hand rail for you to stand on to keep that rear end down?
You probably should have left the whole thing intact so the weight of your body gave it some traction when sitting in the seat. Just use a rubber tie down to hook the plane to the chair to haul it around, or something to that effect. Your intellect is admirable, but a simpler approach may be better.
Anyone have any idea what one of these lil scooters would move on a flat surface
Zack just run the tail wheel to CG of cart make the ramp longer with a stop on the back. Keep trying.
@mikepatey has some competition