How To Add Stud Wall Cabinet Blocking For Kitchen Cabinet Installs
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- Today we will teach you How To Add Cabinet Wall Blocking To Stud Walls for your Kitchen Cabinet Installation and you will do it yourself. DIY Alert: Building codes require all kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities to be attached to the wall via screws through stable fixed member structural supports such as studs. In this case, we have added cabinet blocks in between the wall studs where the kitchen cabinets will be mounted, so that when you are installing kitchen cabinets, you'll always hit wood when you screw the cabinets in the area of the cabinet blocking.
Tools used in this cabinet blocking video:
Amazon link to Dewalt Framing Nailer Kit we use:
🛒 amzn.to/2BIespt
It's a 20-Volt MAX XR Lithium-Ion battery cordless brushless 2-speed 33-degree framing nailer. This stud wall nailer comes with charger and case too. I got this as a great alternative to having a compressor and twisted hoses everywhere to power a framing nailer to nail the bottom plate and wall studs back together, and add cabinet blocking to our stud walls.
If you were always considering how to install kitchen cabinets, it starts with adding Cabinet Blocking, also known as Wall Blocking, to your kitchen wood stud walls, whether they are load bearing walls or not. We have some useful kitchen remodeling ideas toady for all you do it yourself folks.
Cabinet blocking in walls helps you avoid having to search blindly through drywall for wall studs to mount your kitchen cabinets to during your DIY kitchen remodeling project. Wall blocking has been around for years, you need wall blocks already in stud walls for fire safety purposes, so just add some cabinet blocking in walls.
Make sure you know the correct cabinet blocking height to attach the blocks to the stud wall, Your kitchen cabinet drawings should show the heights at the top and bottom of each cabinet so you know where to install your cabinet blocks.
This fool proof method of blocking for drywall stud walls gives you a smooth and easy Kitchen Cabinet Installation because you don't waste time searching in vain for those elusive wall studs, only to drive in your screw through the cabinet back and just past the edge of the wall stud and miss your mark.
Also sometimes studs are in a very inconvenient spot for one of your cabinets, or the spacing of your studs can sometimes leave you with only one stud behind each cabinet.
This clever process we show you here eliminates all these cabinet installation problems by giving you a continuous stud (block) all the way across your kitchen cabinets, so that it is impossible for you to ever miss a stud. No matter where you drill in your screws, you are guaranteed to always hit wood. We hope you enjoyed this DIY how to video on kitchen cabinet wall blocking.
00:00 Introduction What is Cabinet Blocking?
01:37 Size of wood to use for stud wall blocking
02:17 Attaching cabinet blocks to the stud wall
04:09 Overview of completed blocking installation
05:59 Installing kitchen cabinet blocking around plumbing
09:44 Installing fire blocking - Jak na to + styl
Great video thanks for taking the time I'm gutting a kitchen down to the studs and wanted to install blocking for the cabinets the video was very clear on what to do good job
jeff meyers Thanks I am glad to hear you enjoyed the video. It's always best to have the wall gutted just like you are doing , it should work out really good for you.
This is the only video that explains where to place blocking, so thank you
Awesome, glad to help!
Crazy helpful!
I feel silly now, cuz I had never imagined how to add the cabinet blocking between studs with a pipe between. Having that 1x piece screw in like it did, to the piece behind it - you just made my night so much better! I can finally finish my work with confidence!
Thank you!
I don’t comment on videos but you are a lifesaver for taking the time to make this video. I’ve framed other rooms but hesitant about kitchen. I now feel very comfortable demoing and re-framing my kitchen.
Glad it helped Albert!
Measure between the studs at the sole plate to get the lenght of a block. This is becausd kiln dried lumber has about a 20% moisture content and is prone to warping in the middle of a stud as it dries. Also, the distance between studs may vary and/or the framing may be a little off. Measuring from the bottom will pull the wall together and straighten it. Also, you didn't mention this in your video but it appears you held your blocking about 1/8" in from the edge. This helps to keep your drywall flat.
Thanks for covering these building basics and explaining things such as fire blocking
My pleasure Raymond, glad you liked it!
Thank you so much crystal clear about the carpenter wanting blocks for cabinets
Glad to help!
I put mine in with a corner bracket on each end. Overkill but super sturdy.
Very helpful. Thanks for this!
This video is amazing! Thank you!
You're so welcome!
You are the best for this sir!! Thank you!!!
Glad it helped!
great video. thanks
Beautiful... thanks, sir!
Joel I'm glad you liked it thanks for stopping by and feeling our video.
Great instruction video. I'm about to relocate my kitchen to the backroom and this is so helpful for me to prepare the wall. Question: You mentioned 34" of the base cabinet height, where exactly the block goes? The middle or top of the block sits at 34"? Thanks in advance.
We usually try to use a 2 by 6 to give us the maximum margin and I make the middle of it be right at the 34 inches just in case something's off but typically if you look at the back of a cabinet you have a brace that goes side to side that you can screw through to get into the wall and that brace starts at the top of the cabinet and goes down about two to three inches down to about 41 inches off the floor . So apply your cabinet block appropriately and give yourself margin above and below that 34 inch height.
@@jeffostroff awesome. Thanks for the advice. I got a dimension layout from our cabinet vendor and it shows 34 1/2" of the base cabinet and heights of other wall ones.
Great video! With my luck I'd end up putting a screw through that drain. LoL
This is exactly why in situations like this when you have the walls down and you know where everything is I mark on the drywall where the pipes are you can either draw a pencil lines or put some blue tape so that you know to avoid the area don't think that you're going to remember where the pipe is though that's what I have run into in the past I put the drywall up and forget where the pipe was your only clue is where it pops out of the drywall
Good info! One thing; instead of toe nailing the adjoining blocking where you can’t get three nails in the end, would it be better to put a little block behind the blocking board nail or screw it to the side of the stud and then nail or screw the blocking to that board? Looks to me like that would make it a much stronger attachment point for the cabinets, especially the upper cabinets? Thanks for the video. Tom
They don't want screws here, usually nails, but some inspectors might allow it since it is not structure. But stud walls they want nails
Nice
If you can't get the other side of the studs for edge nailing (like if you only access to one stud bay), would you recommend toe nailing the blocking on both sides? If so, would you toe nail on the top and bottom for both sides? That would get you 2 fasteners per side, not quite the 3 you recommended per side with edge nailing.
Matt, yes I toenail in from the top of the block piece down at an angle into the stud. Then I put the second toenail in from the underside of the cabinet block at an upward angle into the stud. With this scenario you can only get away with only 2 screws. If you can get to the back side of your stud wall, like we can here in the bathroom, you can fire in a 3rd nail as long as there will be no protrusions that would cause the drywall to bump out when you go to hang it.
Blocking for chair and crown molding too.
Don't need it for cabinet walls
N00b here....what kind of driver are you using for those screws? I need me one of those!
if new construction, do i have the framers add it in, or wait until after plumbers put their piping in so that the blocks aren’t interfering with their pipes???
Chris, I prefer to do it after the pipes, or you can check with the plumber and see if where they want to run pipes, and you can avoid each other.
Don't worry the plumber'll cut all your blocks off to install his pipes.
@Jeffostroff what size nails would I use on a 2×4 stud into a 1×4 across. Making a built in using the stud as side wall
Nevermind, I kept watching and you told me lol
Glad to help!
Plywood is effective but this is more cost effective. 👍
Great point!
We need to put in a wood backing like this for a new pedestal sink, but because of where the water lines are behind the wall, we only have enough depth to fit wood that is about 3/4 inch thick between the studs. The sink itself will be supported by the leg of pedestal, but still want the top mounted with wood backing. Would the 3/4 inch thick wood be enough thickness for support?
sandywjo5 That will work fine for you. What I recommend you do since you only have 3/4 of an inch to work with is to get maybe a 3/4 inch by 8" piece of wood block or 3/4 inch by 6" , just as long as it is something bigger than a 4" tall board. You can see how I used 6" tall boards. Just make sure you put in plenty of nails into the end of the board since it is taller. So if you use a 6" tall board shoot 4 or 5 nails into either end of it.
Thank you for such a quick response sir!! I suppose I am facing another dilemma, so this sink is going on a wall that is only 36 inches wide, there is ONE stud near the center of the wall, then on the left another stud about 16 inches away. But on the right hand side, the stud is all the way at the end of the wall, so How do you nail these wood planks in between the studs when you cant get behind them? I will also face this problem when I nail the two wood planks on both sides of the center stud of the wall, I will be able to nail the first from the back, but the second block install will be harder cause the first block i installed will be attached where I would need to screw in the second one. I am really stumped.
Woops, I just continued on further and see you do something called toenailing them in. if that is the only option for me then the wall will have to be opened even further to accomodate a drill coming in at an angles. I was hoping to avoid that, but I suppose it is what it is. lol
Yup, toe nailing indeed! Whenever you have 2 blocks going in, one on each side of a stud, then one of them has to be toe nailed, and I prefer to do it from the top or the bottom of the wood piece into the stud at 45 degrees, in ordered to avoid any bumps on the front that could cause the drywall to bump out. If you still want to to secure more screws, then toe nail it from the back of the wood piece also, but make sure the nail does not shoot through the front of the stud wall.
I just remeasured (as I always do) and we can fit 1 inch depth wood block instead of only 3/4 like I originally thought. For a 1 inch depth do I still need to do atleast a 6 inch board in height, or would 4 be ok?
That's a nail plate (Simpson, MiTek, etc). It's full of holes, for nails. You're supposed to use a protection plate, they're solid and generally thicker.
Yes! Good call!
@@jeffostroff Is it legal to put the nail plate on the back of the block like you showed or does it have to go on the front?
@@frederf3227 if you put it on the front, you'll block yourself from screwing into the wood. It goes on the back so screws can drive into the wood but not all the way through.
Would blocking be strong enough to hold floating shelves?
Yes, the blocking is structure, it is strong enough to hold cabinets and shelves.
I did this fore my tv mount so all 4 lags were strong because I did not want the 65 inch tv to fall
That's they way to do it!
Wouldn't it be stronger to screw into the studs rather than a backer board attached by toe nailing?
Their backboards are as thick as studs they can handle the weight and there's a nail on the top and the bottom of the backboard. Which is more than enough to handle the weight that it would be expecting to carry. But we always shoot for a stud there are many times when you know you can't get to a studWhich is where the blocks come in handy for you.
Can someone lmk if you can mount melamine cabinets on plywood? I’m installing a section of uppers this weekend and the wall has sheetrock AND plywood. So I’m a bit worried on the layers I need to go through to hit the stud, my backing is 3/4 the sheetrock 5/8 and the plywood 1/2 I think. Anyone have any suggestions? I usually use 3 inch screws when I install uppers to attach them to the stud. Please any help or ideas will definatly be appreciated!! TIA
Yes you can install them on wood studs, metal studs, or brick walls, just like wood cabinets. Use the special flat head cabinet screws
CAN YOU ADD BLOCKING TO AN EXTERIOR WALL THAT WILL HAVE INSULATION?
Yes you can put blocking there as well
Edit: He mentions using plates to block nails.
I thought he would've put a piece of metal facing that waste line to protect that.
The plumber will add whatever they think is necessary.
It's 4 inch Jeff
The amount of scrap wood in a build is way more than is needed for blocking. I also suggest you do the same to the bathroom where the toilet paper dispenser, towel racks, and hand towels will go. 9 times out of ten the builder is just gonna haul the wood to the dump so why not put it to good use. That drives me CRAZY.
"You are guaranteed to hit wood"
Or maybe that giant drain pipe right there. When installing your drywall, mark the studs so you know where they are.
The true professional drywall installers that do this for a living don't bother wasting time marking studs, because they know what they're doing. Once they screw that first sheet onto the stud they know the line of the screws and where they are located. Then the next sheet they just go straight up the lines. Also, the plumbing is supposed to be far enough back that using a one-inch or one and 1/4 inch drywall screw is not going to Pierce any pipes. The same goes with electrical Romex cables, they should all be in the center of the stud. But yes sometimes I will mark on the drywall where the pipes are to make sure I don't go near them
He said 5” plumbing pipe 😂
Size nail ?
I used Passlode 30 degree 3 1/4" long 12 D nails. My nailer is a 30 degree nailer, not the 21 degree like some others.
What’s the difference from 30 and 21 ? What are the pros and cons ?
Stops at 00:21 won't play past that point.
Remy, it works fine for me. Maybe try rebooting your PC or clearing cache, maybe your browser got into a weird state. Which version of browser and what platform are you on, PC, MAc, mobile?
Same happens to me at 21 seconds
that's great until you are adding cab box's to an opposite or non designed wall.
There were cabinets on the opposite wall it worked out great
damn that gun is slow...
Has to be the worst nail gun I've ever seen. I bet a good framing carpenter could hammer a nail by hand faster.
Cordless
Extremely helpful! Thanks.
Glad to help out thanks for stopping by to see our video
Can someone lmk if you can mount melamine cabinets on plywood? I’m installing a section of uppers this weekend and the wall has sheetrock AND plywood. So I’m a bit worried on the layers I need to go through to hit the stud, my backing is 3/4 the sheetrock 5/8 and the plywood 1/2 I think. Anyone have any suggestions? I usually use 3 inch screws when I install uppers to attach them to the stud. Please any help or ideas will definatly be appreciated!! TIA
As long as your plywood is screwed into the studs, you’re good to go 👍
Sorry I just realized this was 4 months ago lol