Making a Crokinole Board
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- Making of a crokinole board.
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Not a "how-to", but I must say I've been amazed at how quickly the CNC does the job 😱😱😱
On a side note, the lady playing white can remove the 20 points she thinks she scored (and both white disk by the way) since she had to touch a black disk present on the board. 😜
Planning on making one, but we don't have a CNC sitting in the garage unfortunately!
Great job Miles!! Cool addition to your Etsy store too!
Beautiful board, but this should have been called "watch me make a Crokinole board."
Step one, own a cadcam machine
Cool video! I wonder how they did this before CNC routers... Seems like an unbelievably big difference in the amount of work required, haha
I've seen some people using paint markers for the lines. But there's no way my hand is that steady!
A plunge router with a template can accomplish the rings (but you'll have to fill it with either epoxy or wood filler and can even cut the outside edge of the top. MDF discs cut at 8" 16" and 24" diameter can be used to make a smooth template for the circle lines using a paint pen or permanent marker thus avoiding the epoxy sanding pain/risk.
hello miles wanted the laser file as i wanted to build please help
Do you have the dimensions of each piece of wood your working with? I'm looking to make one myself.
Awesome, it was fun to make! The playing surface is 26" diameter 1/2" plywood. The back panel is 30" x 30", to give a 2" gutter around the playing surface. At 4:15 in the video I show how to mark the edges of the octagon rather than having to make measurements or mark angles. Some people make the back panel round, but my client asked for the octagon style. A good source for info on spacing of the lines, and size of center hole can be found at boardgamegeek.com/thread/2091952/official-nca-board-measurements.
One limitation is the size of the router bit that cuts the line-hole means your playing-field line is a bit too wide. This may cause more discs to overlap the line and thus cause lower-scoring game overall. Not the biggest deal but I think other makers use paint for their lines?
Hi! Thanks for the great video :) I'm going to give this build a go. I have a few questions first, though:
1) What did you use to seal the wood before applying the epoxy?
2) I'm realy concerned about sanding through the plywood veneer to clean up the epoxy. In hindsight, are there easy ways? Like somehow masking the work prior to cutting the lines?
Or is there some minimum thickness veneer to make this viable?
3) Were you happy with polycrylic finish for smooth gliding?
4) Did you polish it after, and if so what kind of polish did you use?
Thanks!
1) I used two thin layers of the polycrylic that way if I didn't sand it all off when I was cleaning up the epoxy I wouldn't have to worry about it playing nice with my finish.
2) Yes, I sanded through the veneer on my 1st attempt too. I've masked off areas on smaller applications of epoxy and that works pretty good. If your going to CNC your lines you could probably take the time to cover the entire board in painters tape and let your cnc cut through the tape. Using a syringe to apply the epoxy saves a lot of mess too. All the hardwood plywoods I've used have had super thin veneers, even when buying them from premium hardwood suppliers. The trouble areas seem to be the edges of the board, I think you have to be very conscious not to go over the edge of the board as then you're more likely to put an angle on the sander and remover more material at the edge.
3) If you have an HVLP sprayer I would use the polycrylic, if not I wouldn't go that route. It's really hard to get a smooth streak-less coat wiping or brushing it on. I bought a Fuji sprayer after this project and wish I had had it before. I believe they sell polycrilic in a spray can, but I don't have any experience with it. I ended up putting on ALOT of thin coats and then sanding it with 800 grit then adding more coats then sanding again. I normally use General Finish Arm R Seal its very easy to wipe on and get a great finish. But its oil based so it would have slightly yellowed the maple.
4) Because I wasn't very happy with the gloss of the finish after sanding with 800 grit I used micro mesh and wet sanded up to 12000 grit to get a glossy finish. If you end up needing to do this be sure you have the board fully coated as the water could cause the veneer to buckle. Last I waxed the board with Minwax Furniture wax.
Feel free to reach out if you have any more questions!
Miles
I love the brass pegs. Was thinking of doing the same, what diameter brass rod did you use? and what height did you cut them at? thanks! great video!
Thanks! I used 3/8" brass rod I got off amazon. I believe I drilled the holes 1/4" deep and cut the rods 1" long. I think the discs are a little less than 1/2" thick so as long as you have that much sticking up above the board you should be good.
you lost me when I saw the CNC router....you're title should be, How I made my board
Do you have any experience with buffing the epoxy to improve the finish? I poured mine and sanded everything but the epoxy is not a shiny as I would like. Any ideas? Also, thanks for the video helped me to figure out how to complete the project.
What grit are you sanding to? I powersand to 220 and then hand sand up to 800-1000. Also have you wiped it down with mineral spirits after sanding? If it’s shiny when wet then it will be shiny when you put your finish on.
I would experiment with micromesh pads. I use them for polishing acrylic pens on the lathe and they come out super glossy.
Buy a board online/or machines that can build it for me for 10× the price? Hmm?
Well, you can in theory build it from a jig saw and drill only for like $30 in tools.
This is a terrible how to. This is just you building it. You don’t explain the details of anything.
Oh boy! My first CZcams troll! You've made my day sir!
@@mwwoodworks3992 I’m not trolling. I gave you specific feedback.
I disagree, some details were explained. Not a lot, but several.