Crokinole Build Part 2
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- čas přidán 19. 08. 2024
- This is the second part of a series of tutorials showing how to build a tournament grade Crokinole board (actually, how to build four tournament grade Crokinole boards). I would rate this project to be on the high end of the difficulty scale as it includes bending wood slats for the board rails, joinery and finishing to a high polish.
Shut Up & Sit Down review of Crokinole: • Crokinole - Shut Up & ...
The Hilinski Method: hilinski.net/w...
Crokinole deck jig: drive.google.c...
Overview Slides: drive.google.c...
Games Maker
I like that you let the viewer know various mistakes you made along the way so that we can learn from them!! I appreciate the extra effort in that regard 🙂
As I think I said in the video, If I had included all of the mistakes the video would have been four hours long. 🙂
Nice work. Just wanted to comment that I was watching that glue bottle from the second it came on the screen. Great step by step and I love the accompaniment.
I’m starting my own board this weekend and I really appreciate you making these videos. Very informative and I would love to see more. You’re presentation style is outstanding. 👍👍
Thanks and good luck. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions.
You Sir, have been the inspiration I needed to make my own board. I'm following your instructions and using your guide and I think it is coming out pretty well. Thank you very much!!
Thanks. Good Luck! I hope it turns out great.
Great video! I also watched the Shut Up and Sit Down Crokinole review and was inspired to build my own board. A couple of things that I did differently. I filled the grooves with clear epoxy but instead of covering the entire board with the epoxy I just poured a tiny bit in all of the grooves, let it dry and cure and then sanded it down to be even with the board. It was very messy but worked well. And for the round outside rail I was not brave enough to attempt boiling water and bending wood. Instead I was able to order something called Bendy Ply from my local wood shop. I think it was like 1/8" thick. So I did two layers of that Bendy Ply around the base. Worked really well. The Bendy Ply almost feels like thick paper. It can be challenging to work with. But after I glued two strips together it hardened up nicely. Overall a very fun project. Love your videos! The jig you made was genius.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. Glad it worked well for you.
Well done! Love the boards - and the sound track.
I also chose to fill the grooves of mine with a home made wood filler from the sawdust of my base. It worked very well to add contrast to the playing surface. it was slightly tedious but the result was worth it for me only making one board.
Very cool. Using the sawdust as wood filler is a good idea.
Appreciate the video series. Will be attempting this project once the shop aka garage warms up a bit in the Spring.
Thank you for putting these videos together! I am building two boards right now and you provided some great points. I am working with veneer on one and that is a challenge.
I can imagine. I'd love to hear how it turns out.
Brian please let us know how the veneer turned out. I am about to try my hand at this and want to do some marquetry veneer inlay on top.
Thank you so much for these videos! They gave me a great starting point and great advice! I suggest an UR game board for your next project it's something I bet you could do in a couple hours.
Thanks. I hope your boards came out nice.
Good Evening. I really enjoyed both your videos making this, thank you very much for sharing your process. Had a good chuckle when you explained how you chose epoxy. Subscribed and looking forwards to some other game builds :)
Absolutely amazing video!
Im 1/2 way through with my first board. Following your example very closely. I'm cutting the base into a hexagon so I don't have to soak and bend the wood.
I went ahead and built 32 disks... yeah, definitely just order them! lol, my fingers are so sore from sanding! I don't have the proper 1/2 round router bit to form both sides of the disk, so only doing 1 side, then to the sander to get a bulk of angle, then hand sand to smooth... Whew, definitely just buy them, and I'm not even putting the convex concave faces on them.
Anyways, great tutorial, very thorough explanations, and great music! :)
That's where the lathe comes in 😉
Hexagon seemed easier to me as well, although I'm sure getting all those angles perfect is also a pain. I'm still set on trying to bend the rail. It's nice being able to slide discs around the ditch.
Great videos!!!
I like your style!
Amazing work!
FYI 5/32" or 4mm silicone vacuum tubing is perfect for bumpers. Cheap too. Don't bother with nylon spacers.
Terrific demo, wondering if I could achieve cutting large circles with a jig saw and a pice of string? And a paint pen and spinning the circle on the center axis... I’m a hand tool guy with a small apartment shop. Good call on the woodfiller. Really nice job on these boards, heirloom quality.
2:15 Polyester Resin is better for this than epoxy
Interesting. I am unfamiliar with Polyester Resin.
Great video. The only downside that you set a bad example by not using gloves (and probably no respirator) when working with epoxy.
Used a template to cut my play surfaces, now I wish I just put a hole in the center for my circle jig lol. That centering jig, plus doing the point lines all use a center hole anyway. 🤦♂️
Yeah. When I decided to start with the center hole, the methodology all came together.
Great video! Did you consider wrapping the rails around a smaller circle to get less spring back? Would that even work?
Thanks, Brandon. I did consider using a smaller form but then you would have to overlap the ends and I was concerned that it wouldn't be round.
What kind of ply did you use for the board? Did you do anything to ensure it was dead flat (e.g. sanding).
I used 1/2-inch Birch plywood from Home Depot. It was flat, so no need to prep the plywood.
The rail has me stumped... Well, let's say I don't wanna "experiment" with my maple 1x2 lol. I think two 3/16" slats seems easiest. Butt joint looks good but seems like it'd be hard to line them up perfectly.
Do they *need* soaked to bend? I see these name brand boards achieving a "two slat" style rail, but it's basically plywood or a lumber core veneer. I can't imagine plywood or veneer rails being soaked, surely they don't play well with water?
Yes. You need to soften the lignin to get the wood to bend without breaking. The inside of the curve will compress, and the outside will stretch. Most people use steam, but I found that hot water works just as good and is easier to deal with.
I agree the plywood or veneer would not fare well in a hot water bath.
@@games_maker Thanks for the reply. Maybe they use steam to bend the ply used for the rim.
My boards are still in progress, haven't settled on how I want to add point lines. I tested paint pens and it bled into the wood grain, and routering grooves risks sanding through the veneer to get it flat. Laser engraver seems ideal
This is super cool, now I kind of want to build one. But I gotta know... why are there 13 purple discs?!
For doubles play (4 players, 2 teams) each player shoots 6 discs. They traditionally add one extra in case you lose or damage one. We use it as a token to remember which side went first.
Great video, did you apply the sanding process of using dry and wet sanding to the decks you polyurethaned or just to the ones you used epoxy on?
Yes. I did the same progression on both the polyurethane and the epoxy boards. Ending with polishing compound and then applying wax. To me there is no difference, in how the boards play, between the two surfaces.
Good job. What kind of wood did you use for the rails? What kind of ply?
I talk about this in detail at 3:10 and at 10:30 of this video. To summarize, I purchased a 1"x2" maple board that I ripped into slats of various thicknesses. If you decide to use multiple plies you can use a butt join but if you decide to use a single ply, a finger (or box) join is necessary to overcome the springback in the rails. I liked the single ply where I ripped the 1"x2" in 1/2 which gave me 3/8"minus 1/2 the kerf of my sawblade (approximately 11/32").
Do you really need to sand epoxy to get the extremely slick top?
Probably. I didn't do any experimentation. The sanding, polishing and waxing didn't take very much time.
Does it matter if the grooves are not filled flush with the playing surface? How much does a narrow, shallow groove affect play, if the surface is smooth and well waxed?
It doesn't affect play at all if there are shallow groves in the surface, at least no impact that I could detect. BTW: I stripped one of my decks and filled the groves with stained wood filler and then applied polyurethane and it worked great.
@@games_maker Thanks. I have another question - where can I find the link for the template for cutting the circles, etc?
@@jeremyhull If you expand the "SHOW MORE" label it will be visible; or you can just click here: drive.google.com/file/d/1NHAPv9N6zJgRjO280pAcbCyJJ_pmeyXc/view?usp=sharing
@@games_maker Thanks, I printed it!
Why do you cut grooves? Why not just paint the lines, or use a Sharpie and then finish over that?
Aesthetically, the grooves look really cool. Sort of a faux marquetry/inlay. And because it was a challenge.
I bought sharpie paint pens with that idea but it bleeds into the woodgrain. Could poly coat first then paint pen over it but I'm guessing the line won't be as nice over a poly surface. Of course the easy solution doesn't work well 😅
Maybe I missed it in the video, but what wood are you using for the rails?
Maple. They were 1 x 2 maple boards that I split into skinnier slats.
Hi there! Do you sell the boards?
Can you pass me the price? I live in Uruguay.
I'm sorry. I don't sell the boards. I just made them as a project and gave the extra three away.
These boards run about $300 USD in general. Shipping something that size to Uruguay would probably be $150-$200 usd.
Ive shipped 100's of 13lb printers all over the world, and they cost about $60 on average. Some places over $130 for a 13 pound box much smaller than these boards. If I had to guess, you might be looking at $200 shipping. Thats $500 total!