Lead solder vs lead-free solder vs silver solder
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- čas přidán 29. 06. 2024
- One of the very popular statements regarding soldering, especially on a hobby-grade usage, is that lead-free solder sucks and what you need is an excellent Sn60Pb40 lead solder! Everything else does not want to flow, clods and such lead-free solder joint is garbage. Hobbyists should forget about lead-free solder! Last time I checked (a few years ago), it was the absolute truth. All the lead-free solders I tested back then were crap.
A few years passed, and I decided to check what changed on the field of soldering. I went shopping, got a brand new Sn60Pb40 solder, lead-free with copper (Cynel Sn99,3Cu0,7), and lead-free with silver (3,8% of silver) and checked how they behave. The results are not that obvious like years ago...
Cynel Sn99,3Cu0,7 Lead-free solder
Cynel Sn60Pb40 Lead solder
WBT Ag3,8 Silver solder
0:00 Intro
4:22 Lead solder test
6:03 Lead-free solder with copper
9:36 Lead-free solder with silver
13:47 Outro
#soldering #leadfreesolder #leadsolder - Věda a technologie
I've got some 63% tin, 35% lead, 2% silver solder (£10 for 250g from hobbyking) Lovely stuff, flows like liquid silk, shines like jewelry - treat yourself Pawel, you won't regret it.
Just purchased leaded soldering wire because it is more workable and changable.
That are interesting news. It was still in my mind that unleaded solder sucks.
Not so long ago i ditched 40% lead solder for 37% lead solder because i fell in love with it’s „digital“ flow behavior. No intermediate phase but solid to liquid within 1-2 degrees.
If you have ever seen an old car battery terminal with "Fuzz" all around the outside - those are "Tin-Whiskers" and they are always growing and growing inside of ROHS electronic devices today.
Leaded solder is why Vintage Computers from the 1970-90's are still working in this century.
That explains why my sisters 8-year-old iPhone had its Wi-Fi and then its Bluetooth fail within a month of each other.... :( Got to love planned obsolescence, not enough that they break them with software as well.
Well, really, I tore down an old powered bass module from BOSE and all of the solder joints were cracked where the heat sink connected to the amplifier chips. That thing was bought in 1995 and was definitely using leaded solder. I recently tore down a 2008 computer PSU that used lead free solder. Aside from having to use a blow torch (not literally) to de-solder the joints, there was no whisker growth anywhere on the PCB or other components. In fact, even the heat sink connectors were solid as hell.
@@kpadalldotablet1009a rare scenario although its not uncommon to see sound systems having cracked solder but they are still way better then today stuff dosent last 5 years
Ruben, this shows me just how advanced you are on this journey. Direct response is an issue for some reason on this platform so I hope it doesn’t escape your sight.
Led free solder is not that bad as you grandfather remembers! The problems is that led free solder isn t that flexible because doesn t have lead, and using it to solder cpu or chips that get s hot and cold all the time can crack the solder.
What alloy do you prefer?
So it is bad? 🤯
So it is bad? 🤯
So it is bad? 🤯
I was an aerospace soldering instructor and tried lead free solder a few years ago, was an awful experience. I notice all kinds of lead-free solders and fluxes being advertised now, maybe I'll try it again but have plenty of good old 60/40 rosin core solder and rosin paste flux on hand. Is there a good reason to switch to lead free solder and lead-free flux for occasional electrical/electronic hobby soldering? First time solderers need to understand the basics of "solder-bridge" heat transfer, care of soldering iron tips, proper stripping and tinning of stranded and single-strand wire, use of flux and observing proper solder flow. They don't need the challenge of higher temperature lead-free solders and non-rosin flux.
This was exactly the information I needed, thank you.
Great video, very informative. Curious to know the relative differences in electrical conductivity of such soldered joints.
Where did you bought the pcb ? seems good quality since the pads didn't melt
Unless it's plumbing or jewelry of course ....
Leaded Eutectic solder 💯
I used some lead-free (with copper only) years ago and honestly when using flux it wasn't so bad to apply either. I think the real problem is the long term stabilty. Cold joints, whisker growth, oxidation...
It's always a PITA to desolder pretty much anything from a post-2006 (RoHS) PCB compared to the older ones. The joints are mostly dull and oxidized, cold joints on hot components are far more common too.
So I think if you solder professionally in (or for) a country which banned 60/40, the silver stuff is probably worth the extra cost if you wanna provide a reliable and well servicable product.
You are probably correct here. I'm in this comfortable position that I can buy 60/40 no problem and I'm an amateur. So lead poisioning is not a problem with my amount of soldering as well
Thanks for the insight.
I read somewhere that silver does provide better conductivity. I don’t know if this is correct, but if it is, it may be a reason to use it.
Leaded solder flows beautifully lead free most commonly used today but does not flow as good
EU is cracking down pretty hard on lead and the only source now would be private Sellers as it's pretty much banned from sale as far as I know. Good to know there's alternatives cause if lead free solder was still anything like what I used 10 years ago I would probably just quit the hobby
For hobby use, aviation and other critical equipment it is still very much legal to sell and buy within the EU, but since those only are a small percentage of the sellers' income, few actually still sell it, often at a significant markup, usually still cheaper than lead-free though
@@lawabidingcitizen5153 I think that dipping circuit boards in solder bath techniques, with lead fumes, is reason lead-free fluxes and solders were developed for safe electronics manufacturing.
Lead free solder will oxidise rightaway after the heat removed and it will be hard to remelt. So it's pretty much a one-shot product not allowing any mistakes. But most of lead-free soldering wire doesn't require flux on the working surface since it has flux core.
Personally I'd be interested in seeing how well or not the various solders you had would work with large battery wires to an esc and or motor wires onto an esc.
You need rosin core 60/40 tin/lead solder, rosin paste flux, adequate heat, and good technique for large gage wire/connector soldering.
What about the temperature differential? I always read that tin with lead has a much lower melting point, which means less heat put on the boards and on the components. Is this still dramatically different or is the difference negligible by now?
what formula solder is Sn5Pb93.5Ag1.5, 2.2%. and how will it compare to your video for the use?
Can you do a comparison video of cynel 60/40 vs kester?
I'm personally reaching the end of a roll of SAC305; does anyone have a suggestion for any better alloys for lead free?
What was the brand you buy cynel?
Does cynel make good flux, if so any models you prefer?
To Mr. Ruben, I cannot in good faith recommend any solder over 2% silver content not made by any of the brands I trust with confidence. The 4% silver content solder is a hyped audiophile solder that lacks the validity of proven use over decades in the hardest of use environs the proven solders have. The choice is yours. I can’t advocate any solder that is not a true pure eutectic solder that has a greater content of silver than the 2% that the approved brands I trust have. Kester, AIM, Alpha Metals and Multicore are the only brands I trust.
Solderingpoints with lead is beautiful. I like it more to solder with lead because its shiny. (It smells good too)
Is there any sort of consensus on Bismuth solder?
I’ve wanted to get into soldering for a while, but I absolutely refuse to touch anything with lead in it. Bismuth seems like it’d make a good substitute, and it seems likely you could use it to get a low melting point solder that doesn’t have to deal with whiskers or fragility.
I was wondering if anyone knew if anything like that’s been put out there yet.
I have no idea TBH.
Bismuth will blow ur bollocks off
How do you know if your solder has lead in it if the label fell off your roll?
From what I've read lead solder will still look shiny when it cools but lead free cools and looks frosted
Also if you have a temperature controlled iron start low and gradually increase the degrees. Leaded solder should begin to melt @ 180 degrees Celsius maybe 183 depend on which type or brand of solder you use. It will melt and flow like hot butter with flux. Lead free usually requires a lot more heat.
silver solder i picked up is horrible 😂 can barely melt it for more than half a second using a 500c iron. despite the masses of specific flux, it prefers to fly away from what your soldering rather than attach.
having not much luck.
I've used 60/40 leaded solder for almost 20 years. I'm still alive and it is so easy to use. Tried lead free once and it was pain the a$$.
I learned how to solder with lead free and just recently used leaded solder for the first time- leaded solder is so much better
I've used 60/40 for 40+ years and I'm still here and with all my mental faculties. 😁
I've used 60/40 for 60+ years (i'm 71 years old, started soldering at age 11) and I'm still here and still using it with SOME of my mental faculties. Do yourself a much bigger favor and quit eating salt.
i am a little confused why the matte surface matters so much
matte, not shiny surface is an indication that temperature was too low and joint is weak. Plus, porous, matte, surface increases oxidation rate
for those working fault-finding on PCBs, identifying dry joints is an important part of an inspection. Whilst UN-leaded solder may be OK to apply, when it comes to inspection later on, even good joints look very much like dry joints would (if leaded solder had been used). So basically, unleaded solder often makes repair and rectification harder and more expensive.
What I know about lead free could fill an encyclopedia. As for the leaded solder alloys including silver content solder, this is where I have learned a great deal. The best leaded solder alloys are pure eutectic alloys. A pure eutectic has only two states of being. It’s either liquid or solid. This clearly an advantage as having only two states makes it more stable and easier to work with. The same goes for silver content leaded solders. The ratio of tin to lead to silver is 62%tin, 36% lead and 2% silver. This ratio makes them a pure eutectic alloy as well. The non silver leaded ratio for a pure eutectic alloy is 63% tin to 37% lead. The best flux core is an RMA, rosin mildly activated, flux core. This has been proven over decades of use in avionics, missile electronics and bio medical electronics where dependability and reliability are key to successful completion of mission tasking. In what was then used under DOD STD 2000-1 and currently under J STD 006 level 3 which are equivalent standards. These are both critical circuits standards for soldering excellence. When used under these standards, the joints produced are capable of withstanding G forces, mechanical and physical stresses and thermal inversions with great success. Failure at this level is intolerable. Human life, the pilot and or crew as well as a class A asset are at stake, not to mention mission success and accomplishment. There is no place for mediocrity in such an environment. 60/40 solder alloys have what is called a plastic range which means they have three states of being as opposed to two for pure eutectic alloys. The appearance of pure eutectic solder alloys with an RMA flux core is the base of any successful electronics soldering that requires the highest reliability and quality. Decades of this proven success cannot be overlooked or overshadowed. It is a proven fact. The best appearance is achieved by the above combination of flux core and alloy. The lead free alloys are making progress and I am certain someone can chime in and help those who want to learn or improve their soldering using this type. I welcome constructive help from those whose experience will be helpful. I’m sure their are those who want to make the change to the safer alloys.
Do you know if there is a eutectic solder with a higher content of silver besides 2?
@@rubenmejia4881I’m not aware of it, but I would welcome seeing it and learning about it as well.
@@rubenmejia4881, so Mr Ruben, who makes this 4% silver pure eutectic solder. I’m curious about this one.
@@rubenmejia4881, so Mr Ruben, who makes this 4% silver pure eutectic solder. I’m curious about this one.
@markphilpot8734 I don't know 🤷 I was asking to see if you knew of a solder alloy higher than 2% silver that was eutectic since you know a lot and have been around the field. I was curious myself since I like the silver solder. I wanted to see if there were other variations that contained lead.
I want some leet solder ! 1337 !
Shouldnt make a video about something you can't even pronounce. Lead is pronounced like the word "let" only with a d at the end.
Be impressed that someone from another country learned such fluent English in the first place and thankful for the informative content rather than judging them on an easy to make pronunciation mistake. Could at least be nicer while still letting them know their mistake...
English is one of the harder languages to learn as it has such inconsistent "rules", including heteronyms like lead vs lead, which are much rarer in most languages (with some exceptions like Japanese and Chinese, which are also among the harder languages to learn).