How to seal plaster PVA or paint? Follow this link. This video shows a job were PVA was used and the was a leak see the results • Painting over water st...
I nearly always I use a well watered down contract matt for mist coating. It is cheap and has never failed me yet. I have seen PVA fail but this is always because it had been applied too thickly to be absorbed into the surface of the plaster. Your video shows how dilute the PVA should be in order for it to be absorbed rather than sit on the surface.
Before your video I had not considered the cost saving aspect of sealing with PVA, or, more importantly, the time saving aspect. Being able to apply the first full coat after just one hour with PVA is hugely better than four hours or so after a mist coat. I’ll try PVA on the next job plaster needs to be sealed. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks using a good quality paint over PVA that has been diluted and allowed to soak into the plaster works really well. With it being a glue the paint bonds to the surface the best that I know. We have been back to jobs that have had leaks. And just water stains no paint peeling.
Have for the past two weeks used diluted PVA on recently plastered walls/ ceilings on a living room, dining room, hallway, stairs, landing, and a bedroom. 1x coat of diluted PVA plus 2 x top coats of Johnstons contract matt, absolutely brilliant for time and cost saving when painting new plaster. Just letting you know that it does work without any issues, have been using it for years.
I PVA as a mist coat too. Saves on price of additional paint that's just being watered down anyway and saves on time. I don't understand why many painters advise people not to use PVA to seal ( Mist coat ) as you said many paints will rework when they get wet. Ive never has issues and good to see you've not to.
Billy The Loam Gardener lm a plasterer by trade and also do a lot of painting too. Using watered down PVA on new plaster will result in the PVA forming a skin on the surface and not soaking into to the plaster. This is a recipe for disaster as the subsequent layers of emulsion will eventually peel off. The correct way to prime new walls is to use a non vinyl based Matt emulsion that has been watered down roughly 70/30 paint to water.
I know the correct way to seal new plaster buddy. However I've been a decorator for over 30 years and using pva is something I have done on repair areas without issue especially if your going onto it with paper. And as used to be done a mist with PVA then two coats of vinyl silk. I have never had a call back due to issues with the paint. Where I had PVA'D first that's not to say others haven't that's usually down to other factors though.
@@p51dgp91 mate I don't wish to be rude. As I said there is the "right" official way and there's other ways I won't tell you how to plaster and what shortcuts you can use as I said I've been in the trade over 30 years and have used different ways to mist coat a wall and how to polish a turd and the right way ain't always the best or appropriate way. You have to know your products and what you can get away with. So keep doing what you do.
Personally i mist coat with watered down trade mat...I have learned the hard way as i have had it blister and peel on me and not take to the wall a long time ago..The trick for me to new plaster on walls and ceilings is always wash down new plaster no matter what..As you will have a small fine layer of plaster dust that gets trapped and that is problem..I see nothing wrong with PVA as long as the walls or ceiling is washed before applying..As applying PVA you are just working the plaster dust around and it is still staying there and the PVA may not seal that fine dust and sit on top of the PVA applied..That is what i have come across and seen..The only time i use PVA is on bare block work in workshops garages and so on to seal it before painting and never had a problem works a treat.
hello painting and decorating can you use pva on exterior render usually use oil stabiliser at around £40 a gallon but need to seal the whole house trying to keep the price down
I’ve just had my hall plastered and the guy used ova on a bit he missed to bond the edges. The paint I’m using to mist will not take to that part of the wall. What do I do please?
How many coats of that pva mix would you need to put on. I’m seeing a lot of people saying that you need to make up a 1:5 mix. The mix you made looked a lot les than that.
Yes in decorating you only use diluted PVA to seal a porous surface... apart from certain things like MDF 1.5 mix is when your apllying plaster or tiling over tiles.
Thanks for another great video. I personally like the presentation and in depth information. Would the same be true if preparing sand and cement render in terms of a p.v.a coat. Thanks.
For the last couple of years I’ve used the no nonsense bare plaster paint from screwfix, have never had one issue. Besides when they changed the formula and it was basically paint and pva mixed together which was in a white and yellow tub. Awful stuff. But the one I use which is brown and brown and white is brilliant
I find that if you fine sand the plaster first, damp wipe the dust off the walls and then use Contract matt 50/50 mist coat, then next coat 70/30 paint /water then paint your finish coat after proper drying time. That surface prep and first watery coat is key!
I personally dont understand this argument existing. ANY material used incorrectly is going to cause issues and the same goes for PVA. I've used it correctly (the same way you demonstrate) and has only ever been 100% successful, never had a single issue with it and i love using it. I feel like this is something that gets brought up by people through a trend to give the impression they know what they are talking about, i find it hard to believe the negativity is coming from experience using PVA correctly. Its easy to walk into a job and blame something the previous joker bodged up but reality is u cant see if theres PVA used if its been used correctly. But of course if customer is PVAist you do whats asked for, usually an extra tub of paint watered down
I just done a tappered edge ceiling with filling in the joints. They recommend to use a drywall sealer to stop stripping as the compound joint filler is different to the plaster board paper surface. Is there an alternative as the drywall sealer is so expensive. I want the celling to look good
@@PaintingandDecorating the plaster board had different finish to the filler and will have different suction rate. So when its painted it will show. Can i seal it with pva
Hi I've got a wall to plaster I've got some PVA to put on first to seal it I was wondering if there was a way of stopping the plaster drying out so quick I never seem to get it on before it's dried out.?
Put on either one neat coat of pva, or use a primer like blue grit or any similar ones. One neat coat of pva always suffices for me, don’t water it down, zero point in putting on two thinned coats instead of one solid one
Some good arguments for and against but it I would just say that Valspar do a Valspar Pro PVA primer paint. So they must have identified some benefit for including Pva 🤔
Hi mate,,I’ve been told my living room ceiling in my new house is some sort of a popcorn ceiling but I’m not sure if it has asbestos on it,,I’m just after a bit of advice on how to tackle this if you can help,,cheers mate
Depends on how old the artex is all artex has been free of asbestos for around 20-30 years now, so if it is new-ish then it will be clear. If you don't know how old it is, then you can send a sample off to get it tested. But stripping can be a pain and it may be straight onto plaster board. Best to fix any cracks and movement in the boards then skim coat of plaster.
Painting and Decorating I’m not sure how old it is mate,we have not long moved in,,it’s a old house but the ceiling is in very good condition,,I’ve just had some plastering done in the house and the guy I had doing it mentioned it to me
No way of anyone in the world being able to identify asbestos without a microscope. You can become familiar with the products it's used in but there is absolutely no way of knowing without a professional looking at it in a microscope. Also when sanding or scrapping old paint, something people don't think about to often is lead. Lead was in paint untill the late 70's and even further depending on how long the paint was sitting around in a basement or store for. Sanding it releases microscopic lead dust into the air and everywhere in the house. Horrible for humans, especially kids. Doing a Reno safe and responsibly is a fuckin nightmare lol.
I'm having a nightmare with my celling took old wall paper off it's taken paint off celling in patches scrapped of flaky bits as most of celling is now bare plaster I PVA it now old paint left on celling is bubbling up
Not sure if you’ll see/reply to this, but if you want that smooth/fine orange peel texture when painting fresh plaster, what’s the best way to achieve it please
Sometimes a brush can leave a smooth finish laid off correctly. We used flat brushes before rollers came about. Rollers are difficult to achieve a smooth surface, medium pile is usually the best. Also depends on the surface and paint used. Thanks
PVA should not be used for sealing plaster. It creates a seal and traps any remaining moisture within the plaster therefore not letting it breathe. Asking for problems in the long run trust me , I've had to sort out this issue numerous times when people have been ill advised and used PVA. Contract Matt thinned down about 30% water to 70% paint is fine.
You seem a decent decorator and quite fastidious with your work which is why I'm surprised you persist with using PVA. We'll have to agree to disagree on this one but you are wrong simple as.
Thanks, it does work I can see how both work one is more expensive. PVA drys so quick you can seal the plaster do a first fill which sits better on PVA then seal the filler with PVA ready for your first coat then mix some hard stop, one more coat job done.
@@ann-mariekutter7671 Exactly what I was thinking. Some moisture is best kept trapped! At least, I'd rather that than have it screwing up my decorations for years and years until, eventually, it finally dries out.
We just use Leyland super laytex Matt emulsion. We’ve never had any issues with newly plastered walls in new builds. Personally I would not recommend using an eggshell or a silk finish on a newly plastered walls without a mist coat of the laytex. Stay away from that shitty PVA All that does is once the top coat goes on it starts to blister and causes serious headaches.
No, would not do this myself use one method or the other. If you add PVA to paint and some brush marks or roller lines are left it will be harder to sand out. Plus PVA dries faster so it will also make your job harder because of keeping up with wet edges.
Sorry but i ve been decorating since 1983 and would never use PVA as a sealer for any surface that is going to be painted. Paint manufacturers will void any guarantee of their product if they knew that PVA was used as the mist/sealer coat. PVA is bonding agent for tilers , plasterers etc.
lucky I don't need their guarantee. Only bad painters blame paint..... paint is usually 99% perfect. Odd time the manufacturer makes a mistake... had two myself..
Damn, if only I'd seen this before I spent money on tubs of paint to mist, then 2 coats... Some say pva is a no no but I guess those are the paint sellers 😂
bradley ballard flaking or peeling paint is a sure sign that the new plaster was ‘primed ‘ with either a watered down PVA solution or wallpaper glue watered down also known as size. Others will tell you it’s not that causing the issue but lve seen it many times.
@@p51dgp91 I'm having this problem in my house now. No idea what's causing it but we had professional painters come in and paint some rooms and we painted some ourselves but in several rooms we have peeling paint. I don't want to hire professionals again because what they painted was peeling in less than a month....... what is the best way for me to seal where the paint peeled down to the plaster so it won't keep happening????? Someone please help????
Enjoyed the first 15 minutes, then lost you with the thinned emulsion and no discernible difference between the two spots of filler. It's almost like you're trolling the die-hard mist coaters 😂 Am gonna try your way tomorrow. Love that Valspar Trade paint, I must say. I think there's a thing that nobody really gets about not sealing the plaster before painting. Bare plaster isn't just porous, it's actually thirsty. If you lay undiluted paint on it, it'll suck the moisture out of the paint before it's dry, leaving a skin of pigment and binders on the surface, a bit like a cold custard. That then dries without adhering to the plaster.
Whether or not there could be a problem my argument would be as soon as the recommended system is not followed you essentially invalidate any guarantee if there is a problem. My thing is that there are lots of little cheats a decorator can employ but for me personally I would rather stick to the recommended systems
Being a tradesman for over 20 years myself I unfortunately do not share the same view point on this matter but there you go life would be boring if everyone agreed. I have a very good reputation so I have no problems with my approaches to my work and if that is the same for you then everything is good.
Thanks I know your a good tradesman by your comments. This option is not for everyone. But general when I've had a problem with paint it has been the paint. Only happened three times first was varnish with a bad grind leaving it with a finish like sand paper. Second is mixed colours for outsides actually losing colour over time. And finally white gloss going yellow in about two weeks. All down to the paints. Never had other problems.
I also undertake listed building work and exclusively lime applications where breathability is key and it's a totally different mindset in terms of paint specification and I must confess the principles can be applied to more modern construction successfully
Plasterer's use PVA lots. And a lot of wall coverings are not breathable. Some paints are not breathable bathroom paint some washable paints. Your sounding less like a painter.
Taking too slowly! Summarise advantages and disadvantages in a five minute video then do a longer form video for those who are interested in further details. That said I am repairing a wall that was clearly painted without priming and has flaked in some areas but has annoyingly firmly stuck islands in others. I have primed with a missed coat of matte emulsion which I got told by person that shop to mix 20% paint to 80% water and made a right mess of the floor but wall looks right and I'm now wondering if I can use my thistle board finish to skin the plaster paint boundaries or if I would need to apply another missed coat with a thicker consistency, apply a PVA primer over the top, or can I not skim my plaster paint messy wall with board finish at all which would be a shame as I opened the bag for a small job skimming a largely unabsorbant surface successfully before realizing how unforgiving it was of moisture sucking surfaces. I now have 14 kilos more or less that will otherwise go unused unless I can prepare the surface to accept it... 😕
thanks for your top tip loved the video.
thanks for your swift reply keep up the great work
Thanks your welcome.
Good stuff that, very interesting and informative.
I nearly always I use a well watered down contract matt for mist coating. It is cheap and has never failed me yet. I have seen PVA fail but this is always because it had been applied too thickly to be absorbed into the surface of the plaster. Your video shows how dilute the PVA should be in order for it to be absorbed rather than sit on the surface.
Thanks, it just shows how all methods work just depends on your budget.
Before your video I had not considered the cost saving aspect of sealing with PVA, or, more importantly, the time saving aspect. Being able to apply the first full coat after just one hour with PVA is hugely better than four hours or so after a mist coat. I’ll try PVA on the next job plaster needs to be sealed. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks using a good quality paint over PVA that has been diluted and allowed to soak into the plaster works really well. With it being a glue the paint bonds to the surface the best that I know. We have been back to jobs that have had leaks. And just water stains no paint peeling.
Have for the past two weeks used diluted PVA on recently plastered walls/ ceilings on a living room, dining room, hallway, stairs, landing, and a bedroom. 1x coat of diluted PVA plus 2 x top coats of Johnstons contract matt, absolutely brilliant for time and cost saving when painting new plaster. Just letting you know that it does work without any issues, have been using it for years.
That's great to hear its all about a good foundation even for paint. Thanks
I PVA as a mist coat too. Saves on price of additional paint that's just being watered down anyway and saves on time. I don't understand why many painters advise people not to use PVA to seal ( Mist coat ) as you said many paints will rework when they get wet. Ive never has issues and good to see you've not to.
Thank you, sorry for late reply.
Billy The Loam Gardener lm a plasterer by trade and also do a lot of painting too. Using watered down PVA on new plaster will result in the PVA forming a skin on the surface and not soaking into to the plaster. This is a recipe for disaster as the subsequent layers of emulsion will eventually peel off. The correct way to prime new walls is to use a non vinyl based Matt emulsion that has been watered down roughly 70/30 paint to water.
I know the correct way to seal new plaster buddy. However I've been a decorator for over 30 years and using pva is something I have done on repair areas without issue especially if your going onto it with paper. And as used to be done a mist with PVA then two coats of vinyl silk. I have never had a call back due to issues with the paint. Where I had PVA'D first that's not to say others haven't that's usually down to other factors though.
Billy The Loam Gardener You crack on then doing it your way....🙏 And il carry on doing it the right way.👍
@@p51dgp91 mate I don't wish to be rude. As I said there is the "right" official way and there's other ways I won't tell you how to plaster and what shortcuts you can use as I said I've been in the trade over 30 years and have used different ways to mist coat a wall and how to polish a turd and the right way ain't always the best or appropriate way. You have to know your products and what you can get away with. So keep doing what you do.
Personally i mist coat with watered down trade mat...I have learned the hard way as i have had it blister and peel on me and not take to the wall a long time ago..The trick for me to new plaster on walls and ceilings is always wash down new plaster no matter what..As you will have a small fine layer of plaster dust that gets trapped and that is problem..I see nothing wrong with PVA as long as the walls or ceiling is washed before applying..As applying PVA you are just working the plaster dust around and it is still staying there and the PVA may not seal that fine dust and sit on top of the PVA applied..That is what i have come across and seen..The only time i use PVA is on bare block work in workshops garages and so on to seal it before painting and never had a problem works a treat.
great info
Very helpful 👍
25ml pva to a litre water approx for new dry plaster, as good as anything. The ratio is this guys, he says 50 to 100ml in 4litres of water.
hello painting and decorating can you use pva on exterior render usually use oil stabiliser at around £40 a gallon but need to seal the whole house trying to keep the price down
I’ve just had my hall plastered and the guy used ova on a bit he missed to bond the edges.
The paint I’m using to mist will not take to that part of the wall.
What do I do please?
Hi, can I use this technique to seal plaster decorations? I make vase and other aesthetic things. THANK YOU
How many coats of that pva mix would you need to put on.
I’m seeing a lot of people saying that you need to make up a 1:5 mix.
The mix you made looked a lot les than that.
Yes in decorating you only use diluted PVA to seal a porous surface... apart from certain things like MDF 1.5 mix is when your apllying plaster or tiling over tiles.
Hi mate I’m about to wallpaper on a new plastered wall,,just wondering if I put a mist coat on or do I do something different,,cheers mate
Get some beeline primer sealer on the plaster
How would apply to old lime plaster with patchy paint? Pva or mist coat?
Thanks for another great video. I personally like the presentation and in depth information. Would the same be true if preparing sand and cement render in terms of a p.v.a coat. Thanks.
Thanks and yes..
For the last couple of years I’ve used the no nonsense bare plaster paint from screwfix, have never had one issue. Besides when they changed the formula and it was basically paint and pva mixed together which was in a white and yellow tub. Awful stuff. But the one I use which is brown and brown and white is brilliant
I find that if you fine sand the plaster first, damp wipe the dust off the walls and then use Contract matt 50/50 mist coat, then next coat 70/30 paint /water then paint your finish coat after proper drying time. That surface prep and first watery coat is key!
I personally dont understand this argument existing. ANY material used incorrectly is going to cause issues and the same goes for PVA. I've used it correctly (the same way you demonstrate) and has only ever been 100% successful, never had a single issue with it and i love using it.
I feel like this is something that gets brought up by people through a trend to give the impression they know what they are talking about, i find it hard to believe the negativity is coming from experience using PVA correctly.
Its easy to walk into a job and blame something the previous joker bodged up but reality is u cant see if theres PVA used if its been used correctly.
But of course if customer is PVAist you do whats asked for, usually an extra tub of paint watered down
How do you dispose that PVA slurry?
I just done a tappered edge ceiling with filling in the joints. They recommend to use a drywall sealer to stop stripping as the compound joint filler is different to the plaster board paper surface. Is there an alternative as the drywall sealer is so expensive. I want the celling to look good
Not sure what you mean. But you cans seal plasterboard with a number of things. i.e. B.I.N primer, B.I.N. 123 and oil undercoat
@@PaintingandDecorating the plaster board had different finish to the filler and will have different suction rate. So when its painted it will show. Can i seal it with pva
@@harrysingh1145 Diluted PVA is not the best thing to seal plasterboard with due to it being waterbased. Better using oil paint.
@@PaintingandDecorating ok thanks
Hi I've got a wall to plaster I've got some PVA to put on first to seal it I was wondering if there was a way of stopping the plaster drying out so quick I never seem to get it on before it's dried out.?
Put on either one neat coat of pva, or use a primer like blue grit or any similar ones. One neat coat of pva always suffices for me, don’t water it down, zero point in putting on two thinned coats instead of one solid one
excellent
Some good arguments for and against but it I would just say that Valspar do a Valspar Pro PVA primer paint. So they must have identified some benefit for including Pva 🤔
Great stuff
Hi mate,,I’ve been told my living room ceiling in my new house is some sort of a popcorn ceiling but I’m not sure if it has asbestos on it,,I’m just after a bit of advice on how to tackle this if you can help,,cheers mate
Depends on how old the artex is all artex has been free of asbestos for around 20-30 years now, so if it is new-ish then it will be clear. If you don't know how old it is, then you can send a sample off to get it tested. But stripping can be a pain and it may be straight onto plaster board. Best to fix any cracks and movement in the boards then skim coat of plaster.
Painting and Decorating I’m not sure how old it is mate,we have not long moved in,,it’s a old house but the ceiling is in very good condition,,I’ve just had some plastering done in the house and the guy I had doing it mentioned it to me
Well be on the safe side and get it skimmed I've striiped ceilings before never again if i can help it, hard work.
No way of anyone in the world being able to identify asbestos without a microscope. You can become familiar with the products it's used in but there is absolutely no way of knowing without a professional looking at it in a microscope.
Also when sanding or scrapping old paint, something people don't think about to often is lead. Lead was in paint untill the late 70's and even further depending on how long the paint was sitting around in a basement or store for.
Sanding it releases microscopic lead dust into the air and everywhere in the house. Horrible for humans, especially kids. Doing a Reno safe and responsibly is a fuckin nightmare lol.
I'm having a nightmare with my celling took old wall paper off it's taken paint off celling in patches scrapped of flaky bits as most of celling is now bare plaster I PVA it now old paint left on celling is bubbling up
Leave it to dry back fully scrape any loose then give it a coat of washable matt... fill sand fill seal filler paint.
excellent video. could you use thinned pva on raw mdf to seal.
Thanks, no you're better using an oil primer or B.I.N. primer. Water is bad for some MDF
thanks for replying. about 12 sheets of mdf to be painted. was looking for cheap option.. b.i.n is great but expensive
o g you can thin down oil undercoat so it soaks in.
Painting and Decorating. thank-you for advice
MDF. Ohh my God its safe to say its RUBBISH.
Not sure if you’ll see/reply to this, but if you want that smooth/fine orange peel texture when painting fresh plaster, what’s the best way to achieve it please
Sometimes a brush can leave a smooth finish laid off correctly. We used flat brushes before rollers came about. Rollers are difficult to achieve a smooth surface, medium pile is usually the best.
Also depends on the surface and paint used. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating thank you very much for the reply. I was looking to use silk paint on newly plastered walls
PVA should not be used for sealing plaster.
It creates a seal and traps any remaining moisture within the plaster therefore not letting it breathe.
Asking for problems in the long run trust me , I've had to sort out this issue numerous times when people have been ill advised and used PVA.
Contract Matt thinned down about 30% water to 70% paint is fine.
Lol.
You seem a decent decorator and quite fastidious with your work which is why I'm surprised you persist with using PVA.
We'll have to agree to disagree on this one but you are wrong simple as.
Thanks, it does work I can see how both work one is more expensive. PVA drys so quick you can seal the plaster do a first fill which sits better on PVA then seal the filler with PVA ready for your first coat then mix some hard stop, one more coat job done.
what if i want to trap remaining moisture? lol
@@ann-mariekutter7671 Exactly what I was thinking. Some moisture is best kept trapped! At least, I'd rather that than have it screwing up my decorations for years and years until, eventually, it finally dries out.
We just use Leyland super laytex Matt emulsion. We’ve never had any issues with newly plastered walls in new builds. Personally I would not recommend using an eggshell or a silk finish on a newly plastered walls without a mist coat of the laytex. Stay away from that shitty PVA All that does is once the top coat goes on it starts to blister and causes serious headaches.
What are you on about. Why would it blister? I decorate my plastering and have painted over splodges of pva many times without any issue
Iv got a living room that has paint flaking of the ceiling and coving !! Do I have to scrap all the paint off?
Yes, if it wants to come off better to try and remove the lot, before sealing.
do you water down by mass or by volume?
By volume.. thanks
Hurry up....I've got to go to work in 5 mins
Hilarious.
Is it OK to mix in pva in with the mist coat primer? I've done this in the past
No, would not do this myself use one method or the other. If you add PVA to paint and some brush marks or roller lines are left it will be harder to sand out. Plus PVA dries faster so it will also make your job harder because of keeping up with wet edges.
@@PaintingandDecorating won't there be marks left if you use a roller or brush to apply the pva?
@@justintemp no because you dilute PVA so it soakes right into the plaster.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating ah, makes sense. Thanks!
@@justintemp v
Sorry but i ve been decorating since 1983 and would never use PVA as a sealer for any surface that is going to be painted. Paint manufacturers will void any guarantee of their product if they knew that PVA was used as the mist/sealer coat.
PVA is bonding agent for tilers , plasterers etc.
lucky I don't need their guarantee. Only bad painters blame paint..... paint is usually 99% perfect. Odd time the manufacturer makes a mistake... had two myself..
Maybe I didn't noticed but what is the ratio Water/PVA used?
250ml to 8liters of water
That works out at 31.25 ml per liter
@@PaintingandDecorating 3% solution then.
Damn, if only I'd seen this before I spent money on tubs of paint to mist, then 2 coats...
Some say pva is a no no but I guess those are the paint sellers 😂
Mist coat does work done correctly but is very messy. PVA is better and makes a stronger bond. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating splatter everywhere!
have you ever had a call back maybe a year down the line where you have used pva and the walls are peeling or flaky paint ?
Never.
This was a call back for water leak PVA was used when new plaster check it out czcams.com/video/9dpls4XBhZU/video.html
bradley ballard flaking or peeling paint is a sure sign that the new plaster was ‘primed ‘ with either a watered down PVA solution or wallpaper glue watered down also known as size. Others will tell you it’s not that causing the issue but lve seen it many times.
@@p51dgp91 I'm having this problem in my house now. No idea what's causing it but we had professional painters come in and paint some rooms and we painted some ourselves but in several rooms we have peeling paint. I don't want to hire professionals again because what they painted was peeling in less than a month....... what is the best way for me to seal where the paint peeled down to the plaster so it won't keep happening????? Someone please help????
Talk any slower pal, them tubs of paint will have dried up by the end of the video.
Never use PVA Muppets. It tells you on the back of the tin. Mist coat. Two full fat coats
Never use full fat.. 😆😆 semi skimmed only.
@@PaintingandDecorating 20%. Full fat. No PVA
@@SKMusic1985 tells you on the back of the tin.
Fell asleep wat a drone
try setting speed to 1.25x.......it works well
Enjoyed the first 15 minutes, then lost you with the thinned emulsion and no discernible difference between the two spots of filler. It's almost like you're trolling the die-hard mist coaters 😂 Am gonna try your way tomorrow. Love that Valspar Trade paint, I must say. I think there's a thing that nobody really gets about not sealing the plaster before painting. Bare plaster isn't just porous, it's actually thirsty. If you lay undiluted paint on it, it'll suck the moisture out of the paint before it's dry, leaving a skin of pigment and binders on the surface, a bit like a cold custard. That then dries without adhering to the plaster.
Thanks... 😁 Yes very absorbent
Whether or not there could be a problem my argument would be as soon as the recommended system is not followed you essentially invalidate any guarantee if there is a problem.
My thing is that there are lots of little cheats a decorator can employ but for me personally I would rather stick to the recommended systems
It's a cheat if your customer does not know what they are paying for. And personally PVA is good. Being a tradesman I know.
Being a tradesman for over 20 years myself I unfortunately do not share the same view point on this matter but there you go life would be boring if everyone agreed. I have a very good reputation so I have no problems with my approaches to my work and if that is the same for you then everything is good.
Thanks I know your a good tradesman by your comments. This option is not for everyone. But general when I've had a problem with paint it has been the paint. Only happened three times first was varnish with a bad grind leaving it with a finish like sand paper. Second is mixed colours for outsides actually losing colour over time. And finally white gloss going yellow in about two weeks.
All down to the paints. Never had other problems.
I also undertake listed building work and exclusively lime applications where breathability is key and it's a totally different mindset in terms of paint specification and I must confess the principles can be applied to more modern construction successfully
Plasterer's use PVA lots. And a lot of wall coverings are not breathable. Some paints are not breathable bathroom paint some washable paints. Your sounding less like a painter.
Thin down 10% oil based eggshell you won’t get a better finish.
Taking too slowly! Summarise advantages and disadvantages in a five minute video then do a longer form video for those who are interested in further details. That said I am repairing a wall that was clearly painted without priming and has flaked in some areas but has annoyingly firmly stuck islands in others. I have primed with a missed coat of matte emulsion which I got told by person that shop to mix 20% paint to 80% water and made a right mess of the floor but wall looks right and I'm now wondering if I can use my thistle board finish to skin the plaster paint boundaries or if I would need to apply another missed coat with a thicker consistency, apply a PVA primer over the top, or can I not skim my plaster paint messy wall with board finish at all which would be a shame as I opened the bag for a small job skimming a largely unabsorbant surface successfully before realizing how unforgiving it was of moisture sucking surfaces. I now have 14 kilos more or less that will otherwise go unused unless I can prepare the surface to accept it... 😕
Never use PVA before painting on new plaster.
Change playback speed to x1.5 to watch this helpful video WITHOUT falling asleep.
bit long and boring but get to the point at the end USE PVA diluted glue to seal new plaster walls
this has to be the most boring video i have ever seen ,,,,
get to the point
Dont like the look of some of that paint , b&q shite
None of them are B&Q's own ... they are Dulux, Leyland and Valspar.
Painting and Decorating .... never said ‘own’ , but you bought em out of bnq didnt you?
@@TerryCrodgedy Dulux from Dulux centre the rest may be from B&Q Valspar is good paint.
Painting and Decorating ... yeah valspar aint too bad
Fuck bnq tho imo
Peace bro
Happy new year
Yawn yawn 😴😴😴😴😴😴😴🤑
Boring, looks like he wasn't interested in doing this video in the first place