Tech Tips: Suspension Removal and Installation
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- čas přidán 16. 02. 2016
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Get some quick tips on how to remove and install your forks and shock.
Check out Chaparral-Racing.com for any parts or tools you may need while working on your bike.
Thank you for being so professional mike
Made me look like a real technician today while I removed these things from 2019 Kx 450 that was way past service hour recommendation 😃
Thanks Mike for the info on the front fork tightening. Im notorious for over-tightening my forks and all bolts in general! The advice about using a "torch wrench" 🔧 to tighten the front fork triple-clamp bolts definitely helped my forks work much better!.. Now my folks compress & rebound much smoother and no binding!
Thanks!
Might wanna check the teflon coating on your bushings ,
Thanks so much for this my forks got stuck and i had no idea what to do
You should have noted the measure the height of the fork in the triple clamps before removing them so you can install them the same height
Pardon my ignorance, can you tell me why those are better than the ones you took off?
What’s that little adjustable ruler called?? Been lookin for one and can’t find one.
Alex Jackson Digital calipers
One thing that’s never made sense to me. Is when you re doing the pinch bolts is when you tighten one to the torque spec then go to the next. The previous one is no longer torqued. I’ve gone through that process of going between the two and ended up snapping a bolt. IE: lower tree pinch bolts 1 2. tighten one then tighten two and then one is now not at spec
So do to the expanded nature of the split metal, the first bolt will reach its torque before fully pinching it but slightly pinch it. The second bolt will thus pinch it further since it's already slightly compressed thus "loosening" bolt one, and then you torque bolt one to spec again and then two again (run em once more to be sure both are to spec). If you've got the patience you can do a progressive torque sequence at a lower spec, then again at spec to provide more even clamping but isn't necessary unless specifically stated in the manual. This is basically the closest you can get to a star pattern on two bolts.
If you're snapping bolts your bolts are either fatigued/stretched beyond their useful life, or your torque wrench is grossly out of calibration. I personally try to replace old hardware with new hardware anytime I fully remove it, since I go and check the torque on all exposed bolts after every ride that tends to stretch em out over time, coupled with vibration and work hardening things will snap eventually. The $0.80 spent on a new bolt is well worth saving you from the frustration of drilling and tapping a snapped shank.
why don't you show the real fork pinch bolt tightening pattern.
Bottom is first, top second.
@@vitalmx yeah but, you do them on an cross pattern, vertically or horizontal?
@@AncientGreek cross pattern doesn't mean anything as you're tightening down two separate objects. Torque lower clamps bolts on each side, then uppers on each side to their appropriate number.
@@vitalmx it does matter, I have tried doing them vertically, horizontal and a cross pattern, and they all give very different handling.
@@AncientGreek The only thing that would effect the handling is if you get the lower legs under a bind due to improper axle insertion and pinching of the fork lugs. The pattern in which you torque the triple clamps doesn't effect anything unless the pattern you do ends up with you "over torquing" the clamps. If you go beyond the recommended spec, it causes the upper fork tubes to be pinched so tight that it will create extra friction and binding as the lower tubes pass through that area of the upper tubes.
what the fucj was the bump in the seat
It's a seat bump...