Making Unscented Dish & Laundry Blocks W/ 3 Chelators | 95% Coconut & 5% Castor Oil - Dawn Organics
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- Hello again everyone, today we’ll be making some unscented ecofriendly, zero waste Dish & Laundry blocks, I love these new moulds that we’re made by CeeSon soaps & cutters! They are brilliant. They last an incredibly long time and very cost effective
I dissolved the Sodium Gluconate in some distilled water and added it to the melted oils as with the sodium phytate. I dissolved the citric acid in the water before adding the lye. It must be done separate as sodium gluconate can react with citric acid, we want the reaction between the citric acid and sodium hydroxide to happen first (to create sodium citrate) in order to have 3 active chelators to really combat soap scum issues
I hope you enjoy the video, Thanks for watching and happy soaping!
Link to CeeSon Soaps & Cutters - www.facebook.c...
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Recipe Information;
Yields 4 350g Average Bars (After Cure)
Base Recipe 1000g oil batch, Percentages based on oil amount
Pot Phase;
95% Coconut Oil (Heirloom Body Care)
5% Castor Oil Heirloom Body Care
Colour Phase;
3% Australian White Kaolin Clay (Heirloom Body Care)
Water Phase;
2% Sodium Lactate (Heirloom Body Care)
1% Organic Raw Sugar Syrup
1% Sodium Gluconate (Heirloom Body Care)
0.5% Sodium Phytate (Heirloom Body Care)
3% Citric Acid (Heirloom Body Care) refer to LyeCalc for values and extra lye requirements
25% Water to Oil Ratio - Distilled Water Moore’s Ultra-Pure Water (Woolworths)
99% Purity Sodium Hydroxide (Sydney Solvents)
0% Superfat
Music By; Take Your Time - Dan Lebowitz
#dawnorganics #coldprocesssoapmaking #soaptutorial #soapmaking #tutorial #recipe #diy #coldprocesssoap #soapmaking #coconutoil #castoroil #dishbars #dishsoap #dishwashing #ecofriendly #zerowaste #castile
Hi George. Super cute molds. You're a true chemist!
Thanks Belinda, I love them, I think I need to order more 🙏☺
These moulds are adorable. I love them. And that giant block of soap made me feel so happy!!!😂 great video again George. Lovely to hear your voice. 😊
Thanks Cass, I love them! They last so long, very economical. Woohoo to big soapy blocks ☺🙏
The block moulds! Thanks for the recommendation George!
Thanks for watching 😀😁🙏
That mould is to cute!!! Perfect for test bars. A divider may be good if you only want to test one or two of the cavities
They really are. True although for testing I'll use smaller moulds so no issues with dividers. They're perfect 🙏
Hi from UK George. I have square individual silicone moulds perfect for dish and washing soap. Good size to hold and grate too.
But the foursome in wood mould looks great.
Hi Avril, that works just as good too. I also make rectangular one's. Nice to have a big long lasting block to. Hope you been keeping well! 🙏
Great recipe George,thanks again
Thanks Nerina ☺🙏
I never thought to use square box molds. I will be looking for these.
I love them 😁🙏
They came out of those moulds perfectly, George. Good job!
Thanks Jan, the SL helps a lot also
Hi George and thanks for another video. I make a bar soap with 2% SL and .5% sea salt, staying under what you've said is a 3% max. I also include 2% citric acid with adjusted lye. For a dish and laundry soap, what's your salts maximum, and would there be any benefit to adding or substituting sodium gluconate in my bar soaps? Many thanks again!
Thanks for watching! I don't add sea or pink salt to my cleaning bars, just the sodium lactate. You can absolutely add the salt though, if they are in individual moulds like these you can pretty much add whatever percentage you like as you won't be cutting into them. However 2% SL is plenty especially with this high amount of coconut oil. Adding sodium gluconate helps the sodium citrate as they attach themselves to different minerals and heavy metals, they naturally boost each other. So adding more than one chelator works more effectively and increases longevity of your dish bar also 🙏
@@DawnOrganics Very interesting the affinity for different minerals and metals, you're sending me back for more research. Many thanks for your reply.
Hi George, I must try this triple chelating action soon & I just love these moulds, that's genius! I was just wondering why do you put sodium lactate in this recipe?
Definitely must try. The SL to help with longevity and ease of unmolding
@@DawnOrganics thanks George
Dear George, tried your recipe. Triple chelators work exceptionally well....can clearly see the difference as I tried with just citric acid and with all 3. Still not 100% satisfied though....my water is not very hard, TDS is about 350-400 PPM which is decent yet I am continuing to get slight white film after wash. (Would say 95% improvement with the triple chelators). I did the soap zerofat....lyecalc calculated 41.40 grams of lye for my soap....since my weighing scale does not do exact numbers, I did 41 grams lye for 200 grams of base oils (Coco and castor as used in your recipe)....is it still going to be safe if I do 42 grams of lye instead of 41.40 suggested by lyecalc....will just 0.60 grams of excess lye be problematic for health? Also did 3% citric acid, 1% SG, 2% SL and around 0.5-1% Sodium phytate, any changes there that u would suggest as well??.... interestingly, the soap went from no trace to immediate medium trace as soon as I mixed the SG, SL and SP solution to the oils as suggested.
That's great, it makes a huge difference for sure. If there is any slight residue in future it will just wipe away, not so "sticky". That's totally fine with the Lye, I wouldn't stress. If you like PH test it to make sure using those strips. It does move a little quicker with those additives but that's okay, it makes a great cleaning soap! 🙏
@@DawnOrganics thanks for the re-assurance. Makes sense. Will try a small batch again. Yes, dishes are coming out clean as soon as I wipe with a piece of cloth. I guess we have to get use to wiping the dishes, still worth it to ensure that what goes into the drain pipe is 100% biodegradable rather than using chemical surfactants. I am having a problem with the 0.5% Sodium Phytate as I am unable to measure 1 gram, my weighing scale (though is supposed to measure a gram) always ends up measuring 2 grams before I can stop....I hope if it's also ok adding 1% (at 2 grams for 200 grams of oil) sodium phytate instead of 0.5%....hope the additional gram is not reducing the efficacy of my soap? Thanks
Were you completely satisfied with this recipe? Did the 2 extra chelators help?
Very satisfied. Really reduces soap scum and it's stickiness. 🙏
@@DawnOrganics Can you try doing a shampoo bar? I think the citric will help with pH, and without soap scum that's mostly the problem with real soap shampoo bars.
@smokyvalleynaturals9395 citric acid doesn't lower PH in soap. It reacts with lye to create a chelator called sodium citrate. You can't lower soap PH. It will always be 8-9. Otherwise it will break down into mush and won't lather. I do add sodium gluconate to my shampoo bars they are pretty popular 🙏 I have a shampoo bar video can check it out. That was before I started adding chelators though, can easily add that no drama
Hi, I will try this recipe as well, great video as always.....when I add the Sodium gluconate and sodium phytate after light trace, can I add directly to the oils or do I need to dissolve them in distilled water first? Also, if my recipe calls for adding about 58 grams of water to 28 grams of sodium hydroxide for making the lye solution, do I reduce it by 20 grams here (38 grams water in lye solution) and add in the subtracted 20 grams of distilled water when adding sodium gluconate and sodium phytate so that there is no real change in the overall water content of the recipe?
Thanks for watching. I use a steep water discount here (25% water to oil ratio), so that 50g or so of water I use to dissolve the sodium gluconate doesn't affect the recipe whatsoever. If you're not using a heavy water discount then substract it from your main lye water. Sodium gluconate won't dissolve in the oils you'll need to dissolve it in water before adding to the oils. I wouldn't worry about the water issue, it firms up extremely quick, these we're ready to take out after a few hours. Keep an eye on it of course it depends how much water you've used total. You can add them just after emulsion also, doesn't have to be trace. I do believe in this video I added them to the oils after the SG was dissolved in water. All scenarios work just fine as the citric acid already reacted with the extra lye for sodium citrate (in the lye pot). 🙏
Great, will follow your instructions on this. Can I add the sodium phytate, sodium gluconate and sodium lactate together in the same distilled water before adding to the oils at the emulsion stage or do they need to be added separately? Is it advisable to also use the combination of sodium phytate, sodium gluconate and sodium lactate in a 100% coconut oil soap at 25% superfat for bathing?
Yes you can add them that way no issues. That might be a bit to much Chelating agents might dry the skin out (for the body). Can try a small batch see how you go. Depends on how hard your water is
@@DawnOrganics lovely......as a dishwashing-laundry soap, would you recommend that I try the exact same formulation by replacing sodium hydroxide with potassium hydroxide, all other inputs being the same?
You absolutely can. You add the gluconate and phytate to diluted liquid soap. I do this for a 70/30 coconut olive cleaning recipe. Very nice
Hi, How long did you allow them to cure before using it?
The usual 4 weeks
I'm curious why you'd add castor to a dish soap?
It creates a stable and sustained lather, so it doesn't pop off as quick. Coconut creates a big lather but can pop off, especially when you're dealing with hard water
@@DawnOrganics Will this work with HP? I don't do CP. Thanks. Love the channel.
Absolutely it will. Add them at the end though, after it's cooked. SG and Phytate can break down from long exposure to heat. So as the heat is off and the temp is coming down then add it, mix it well and mould it up. Thanks I'm glad you're enjoying the channel, much appreciated
@@DawnOrganics Thank you. I'm a seasoned soaper, but learning from you. You can teach an old dog new tricks
@@TheHappyHomesteadingHerbalist hehe, never to late to learn, and always learning
Hey, did end up making dish soap with 100% coconut oil, around 1% superfat (using 2% citric acid but after adding additional lye).....still getting oily dishes after wash and slight whitish layer......this time going to try 95% CO and 5% Castor oil following your recipe at 0.5% superfat using 97% Lye purity..... going to add citric acid 3%, sugar 1%, SG 1%, Sodium phytate 0.5% and sodium lactate 2% following your recipe, any further suggestions regarding anything for avoiding greasy dishes after washing or should this work?
Looks good. It's safe to do 0% supefat. I recommend that always for cleaning. The oily-ness is probably the excess oils and hard water combined, not the oils in the recipe per say
@@DawnOrganics will do a zero superfat then, thanks for the timely input:)