FPV Noise // Common Problems & Fixes
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- čas přidán 23. 09. 2017
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Guys post your issues and fixes I forgot to mention that in the video. It could and will help out many people.
Drone Mesh - Awesome video brother, you pretty much addressed every single issue that causes video noise that I can think of. A quick note concerning video noise, I've noticed that certain motors that are more powerful, such as the Emax 2306 2750kv motors or similar, and the Emax bullet esc's induce very noisy feedback emf signals into the system. I've read that soft mounting the motors, the flight controller, or both can eliminate most of your issues, but cheap pdb's and flight controllers with filtered power can fail as well. Keep up the awesome work brother 👍
Thanks for the vid! My noise is only present when I throttle more than 40%. The noise is horizontal lines. Thoughts? Thanks again
I enjoy your channel. I have one I would like to share no fix yet running cl4s flight controller with the emax esc bullets. Chen Lin said they addressed the death roll but, after 50 flight with the fixed 1.4 version it happened. I have a black box and video. The only odd thing I see is motor 3 reads zero on output as it happens. I going to try and raise the digital timing a little to see if it helps.I also adjusted the esc input starting voltage up just a little.
What could cause blackout for 1-2sec in my video feed?
Thanks
Just want to introduce myself. Always fascinated with anything that flies (except mosquitoes). At 72 YO, quads are my speed even the racers. I flew R/C airplanes in the 60s and 70s. I just ordered my first quad (MJX Bugs 2 B2C) for a starter craft. I expect this quad to look like the Millennium Falcon after I attach all the things I want on it. Love reading about problems and, as a retired engineer, I know that I will be able to help solve many of your problems here. I suggested the proper insulating hardware for the antenna connector mounted on the frame below with parts source link. I am looking forward to becoming a part of this community.
+George Foulkes Welcome to the community George can't wait for your contributions.
George Foulkes welcome to the hobby!
I subscribed, post some videos of your flights/progress
Anytime there is a video of good trouble shooting, it ends up be very valuable to the community. The most of us want to learn to be the best we can be and to also pass that on to others in the community. Examples, Nurk's live stream builds, or Project Blue Falcon's old videos. All the testing, building, trouble shooting and connecting with the community you do, Drone Mesh, is awesome! I would love to see that noise trouble shooting video.
I couldnt agree more. This weekend I had an issue that was keeping me grounded. I reached out to the fpv community here on youtube. Most guys answered me and pretty fast. They got me back in the air. Best of all the weather was great and I had an awesome afternoon of flying.
I love this kind of content, you actually help, thank you!
Yep, I'll be watching every vid you do concerning video noise! Thanks for these vids man! :)
I had a phantom noise from the beginning of the setup and it seemed to be intermittent, the motors would come down super hot after 10 seconds of flying, i was able to almost tune it out but couldn't get it perfect. It turns out i had to lower the gyro from 16khz to 8khz and it fixed the problem immediately; this was with the new holybro Kakute F4 AIO on betaflight 3.2, you just cant run it on anything higher than 8khz and get good results even though it says it will run at 32khz (No Way). Running on 8khz and 8khz to the escs the cpu usage is only 6%, the motors come down cool and it flies like a dream. thanks for all the amazing and helpful content, keep it up.
I appreciate this video. the only thing that seemed to work for me is connecting all ground wires to the negative pad on the main power input pad
You are great for doing this. Thank you SO much for taking the time, I will tell my peers about this.
THANKS MAN!!!! I had a the flickers... the osd is a little messed up on my pdb didn't know that could cause the flickers put the low voltage capacitor on the 5v pad and cleared it up almost completely
Dude you saved my ass with this video!!! Damaged vtx sma connector. Soldered back up and perfect fpv feed. Thanks mate. Subbed!!! More eachine ev100 videos please
Yes very interesting. I recently added an lc filter and my feed seemed to worsen. maybe it was the conditions as my flight was cut short. But please continue.
Please add more!! Love the topic, would like to see solutions for smaller drones too. :)
Very clear as usual. Thanks!
Another awesome pointer. Wherever I can I use the whitenoise boards for unify. I had massive noise on my chameleon and just fitted this board. It allowed me to drastically shorten my wires and also route them well clear of escs. It's now perfect. I have achieved exactly the same perfect result putting one on my karearea talon.
Yes brother proceed with this topic 👏
YEEEAH I'm so glad you're doing a serie on this topic ! Dunno if you read my comment on your previous video, but it was just about that!
I'm having a hard time getting rid of noise.
I hope you will go more in-depth, as this particular topic is quite complex and depend on so many factors.
For example, you could show screen capture of DVR with specific noise patterns (It's a LOT of work tho!) and figure out what is the source of noise for this or that pattern.
My noise problem is present even without arming the quad, so I assume I can rule out vibrations, SMA connector, tuning and motors, right?
This left me with how the VTx (or cam?) is powered... struggling with that :/
I've read the comments of this video, and I'll try to see if I can shorten my wires and see if it helps. Thanks @Team crap sheep
Question: does placing a low ESR capacitor here or there can make a difference? Mine is at the lipo to 4in1ESC connection, but maybe it should be closer to VTx ?
I'm powering a TBS unify pro v2 (-> needs 5v) from the FC, can I put the cap there ? Or should I not even bother?
Thanks again DroneMesh for tackling this topic !
Yes please continue!
very interested :) .. i had to abandon my maiden flight today with my 3" copter because my small aio cam (FX798T flickered like crazy when i hit throtle, especially on 4S. It could have been a bad tune as i got oscilations on mid to high throtle and also a bit too warm motors i think (rcx rs1407 4100kv). But I also suspect the really crappy 5V voltage regulator on my 6€ super_S f4 2-4S fc. I added a capacitor to the battery cable but it wasnt really helping i think ..so i guess ill try another tune with less P and D and more TPA or the capacitor right to the 5V rail. This video came at the right time as i was about to figure out what to do so thx for the help :) anyways keep on the good work :)
My biggest issues are motors and props. Bad bearings after some crashes for example. to reduce vtx noises i always use pololu 12v step down regulators between battery and vtx. and the same for the fpv cam. That helps a lot to get better footage on the goggles. The quality of your fc and esc also matters. Some are way better than others.
I had OSD issues with my Kiwi F4 FC. After working fine for a few weeks I started to get a lot of black lines where individual characters of the OSD could be during quick flips. Later the image would go completely black durin flips or punchouts. I fixed it by soldering one of the bigger SMD capacitors that I removed from an old matek PDB between 5V and GND of the Flight controller. This completely fixed it.
Change your cap ...?
The other day I had a couple nasty crashes and started getting black jagged lines on my video feedback.
I had just received my new caps and decided to change the old 470uf out and put a new 1000uf in. When I flew the noise was gone, and I actually had a slight dent on the top of the 470uf cap.
So maybe I got lucky, maybe it was the cap...
Noise is one of the frequent posts on the forums so continue.
The most important fix for me is to keep the wires to your camera and vtx as short as is possible, insure none of the fpv wires touch any other wires as they will induce voltage into your system this has worked better than filters and all manner of LC filters.
Team crap sheep totally agree. Short wires is a definite improvement. I had noise and shortened all wires and now it's perfect. Good tip!
imma try this for black lines interference.
TheMadmacs use a multimeter and check for continuity. Side of the carbon and top screw is a good place to put your needles.
you think the lines might be from grounding onto my carbon... hmm thats an interesting idea because when i plugged everything in with it all just laying everywhere i think the signal was ok, so i thought the wires being pushed together inside was the cause, but it could be from my antenna touching the carbon or some wire grounding onto carbon..... its due a rebuild anyway, since it failsafed from 80feet up onto the pavement.
Due for a rebuild is where I'm at right now. "New and improved". Cheers and good luck!
I had beautiful clean video with my quad. I was using the 400mw capable TBS Unify Pro32 nano. I replaced that VTX with a 1000mw RDQ unit and it's noisy as hell. I tried a Matek 5v/9v BEC on the positive and negative from the battery. Still noisy. I explained this to RDQ thinking they'd have a solution but their answer was to just send me a new unit. So I assume the VTX is bad. That doesn't mean RDQ has a crap VTX, because I've gotten TBS products dead on arrival too and TBS is known for being good stuff. I hope the new unit gives me the clean video.
Your videos on troubleshooting are great.
Did the new unit give clean video
@@flywithtb5005 it was a little better. I put on a different antenna and it was a little better still. I ended up getting a RushFPV solo VTX and the video was then perfect. Maybe it's just my setup but the RDQ vtx was the noisiest one I've used.
Hey Mesh! First off, I'm a big fan of your videos and how you diagnose and solve problems. Just recently, I've been having really bad, almost blackout out noise on my feed when i raise the throttle past ~25%. I've taken my quad somewhat apart and with my vtx (tx526) on a wooden desk (sma connector is not loose and away from any carbon) and camera giving direct feed to my vtx (no OSD) I still get the bad noise. I have 4 330uf 25v Nippon low esr caps on my escs and I was getting pretty clear video with having both camera and vtx getting full voltage. I'm suspecting it's a really bad vibration issue caused by the motors or escs because of oscillations, but it kinda just started happening after a minor crash, any ideas? Any and all responses are much appreciated!!
lol good list of issues you should continue the search for best filtering for video and al around it makes signaling better. vtxs some times break the coil in crashes not sure how but it happen to me also some i think say they can take up to 6s but it over heats them. its weight but they use to put ferrite on esc power line for noise/spikes just positive wrapped a few times around ring. lc filters i have seen need more inductance they help block high freq and caps suck the rest up you might need to get a variable setup with inductance capacitance and resistance. Also rc filter or a mix of all are used in good circuits. try the tvs diodes it might cut the spike that seems to get by its lighter the ferrite though ferrite basically make lc filter for each esc. you might check to see if its rf not in lines but in proximity.
New build and I have this humming sound that sounds like rubbering your finger around he rim of a glass with water. I have tried soft mounting the motors, I have two 1000uf 35v caps on the build. This only happens with low throttle, in the upper throttle band it's their but very low. Like I said it sounds just like that sound you hear when rubbing your finger around a wine glass that has 1/2 water and a little water on your finger.
Nice points, will check some of them in 1 of my drones that is having some image noise!
Installed a mamba vtx recently on one of my older drones and I am getting pretty bad breaking when I shouldn't , will try to replace the sma antenna connectors as this one is already 1 year old and has crashed the most so will check that out, the rest might just be actually hard has this drone was my first one and I have already replaced almost everything so things have been rough for the poor guy ahahah
Great video 🤙🏼
yes thats really usefull! id like more videos like this :)
I wish u did a vid on how to test for noise with a oclispoce. I have one at work but not sure how to test it
Wow hours of pain and i have solved the issue within 7 minutes of this video, i have the osd issue which is a term i have only heard today and i also have the little bee escs.
very useful info thanks
A good capacitor should always be there. And you can always use a smd capacitor, it's really tiny. I use it a lot for audio too.
Hey drone mesh. Thanks for he video, helpful :).
After a crash my fpv feed turned pink tinted. I'll check my vtx connections and swap out with a different to see if that's the cause. I haven't been able to check cameras yet, waiting on replacement to come in the mail.
Any other ideas on what root cause could be? Already have 1000uf cap and LC filter. Could these be adding to the issue?
Yes more please
Please do. I've had some issues now and then with video noise. Sometimes it was easily diagnosed, other times it was just really frustrating.
great keep going
Where do you solder the low esr cap ? On the cam supply ? already have on on my 4 in 1 esc
If you have a screw touching your motor that can cause noise and if you have slipped magnets in your Motors I've had that cause noise and when I replace them or fix the screw it stopped. Also if your OSD flickers sometimes your board is not wired up correctly. The Omnibus F4 if you ground your camera and VTX to the flight controller that will stop the OSD flickering definitely don't power it off the board the voltage regulator will go out on older versions except the new one
what do you think of mid-throttle noise / vibrations please ?
Short range on video. Found SMA was bent and the traces lifted with the SMA pins. It took a microscope to see the break. You can't just reflow the solder. You need to scrape some masking and create a solder bridge from the pin to the trace when you reflow. Used some epoxy to hold it in place better. Do not over-tighten the antenna!
What would you suggest for a well filtered PDB. Cheers
You're missing a screw on your top plate in the front..
I think you forgot a very basic thing to check that I have had on 2 quads. Ground loop via a long motor screw touching the copper inside the motor. Good video too. Thanks.
Dale Pattison I actually remembered after making the video however I have a quad with that same issue which will be featured onnthe upcoming videos.
use conformal coating or nail polish on spot it protects damage you might need to make gap first so not touching
Drone Mesh Awesome. When I started out I could not for the life of me figure this one out. Lol. It's often the simple things that get overlooked though. 👍
Drone Mesh. Hi. I really enjoy your build videos. Thank you.
I just boughy the emax hawk5. And i am experiencing intermitent video lost...video goes black for 1 sec and then came back good. And then it goes black again.
I am wondering if you had experience similar situation and maybe advise a solution. Thank you
I just replaced my vtx in the hawk 5 and it's doing the same thing.. my old one worked fine till I smashed into a tree.. my capacitor was lose about to go check it out
My problem is related to my vtx. On 25 and 200 mw motors run smooth and proper. Then 500 or 800 mw just sitting still armed makes strong noise spikes in osd and motors sound bouncy and jingly or something
Hello drone mesh, i had 470uf 25v esr cap on cam power pad 5.4v and my vtx grounded to the same pad of my cam but it powered by 12v or maybe 14v of battery connector. It lessen my messy vertical line appeared at 75% throttle but not entirely clean. Should i place another 1000uf 25v esr cap on battery pad or i should powered my vtx from the same source of my cam 5.4v pad? Or did i just do it all wrong in the first place? I had no osd flicker, according to your video, mine should have vtx problem. For info the same vtx has not shown any noticeable noise with other fc like Sp F3 but behave differently on HGLRC/Omnibus F4 flame i am using now. Any advice is most appreciated.
Went threw my build and I'm kinda confused 😕, I have some noise. I was thinking about the sma. Ok, I'm not using a unify, on this build. Doesnt a unify screw into the back of the Frog frame? Is that different because it's grounded with the coax leading to the vtx? Compared to just having the sma touch the carbon right off the vtx, which will cause issues, correct? Just woundering why you can screw a unify to the frame abd not get noise..
Have a racing quad with Matek VTX-HV and Emax Pagoda-2 antenna. Antenna is connected to VTX with coaxial cable - IPEX in VTX side and SMA in antenna side. Teared coaxial cable grounding mesh near SMA connector on crash with horizontal lines in FPV video as result. Soldered grounding back. Then teared grounding at another antenna cable end (near pagoda rings). Soldered grounding back. Unfortunately lines didn't disappeared completely. Changed antenna to new one (also same pagoda model) only to found that occasional lines still persists. What it can be? Did IPEX connector got loose? I pushed it back but that changed nothing. Maybe IPEX connector is broken too?
Thanks about 8.4V power voltage for VTX. Already guessed how high voltage (plus EM noise from ESC) interfere with VTX. Had no doubt about excess voltage which is going into heat and screw things up even more. I'll try that when ordered voltage regulators will arrive.
One more noise reason I had: I added TPU pads to soft mount my motors, in the process I change the motor bolts to longer ones, one of the bolt wa touching the motors inside, current was leaking to the frame from the bolt then into the SMA the into the antenna or back into the VTX, anyway I debugged it when I found current in the frame. change the bolts to shorter one = no more noise.
LC filter is king for video interference with motors running. Low ESR caps should be standard.
Brand new VTX, getting weird noise when powered on. Noise goes away when quad is armed. but blacks out every now and then.
Any ideas?
wait a min. Are you talking about noise in your video or physical noise? Like your quad sounding weird? I crashed and now when I fly I hear the props making a high pitch hum sound. But not when I arm. Only when I fly. Motors are not crunching and spinning fine. Props are not damaged. I cant see anything thats loose vibrating
Hi! I can't see almost anything when I am 30 feet away. Also my rssi is 40 or 35. This problem apperaed between 2 or 3 flights I had. I can't find the issue. Already changes the fc, vtx and antenna. I also had I anew esc when it started. My motors are also hot after 20 seconds of flying.
A good way to make sure your SMA connector never comes loose is use cellulose tape or thread lock I use both
I have this problem that its CRYSTAL CLEAR video once i pop in the battery. However, whenever i arm the quad (The props starts spinning lightly), it goes SUPER static and unusable. Conna add a compacitor to the battery part and see if it helps. I'm not good with hardware what so ever, bit it feels like that may be the problem in my case c: i think
Hi Drone Mesh very cool video. Im a first time builder. I use the 30x 30 mamba stack. My first flight the noise is terrible in it. She flies great but the noise in my FPV isn't nice at all. I was told it was motor noise. I used those jelly motor dampeners under it. Would that cause the noise you think. Its a Space 1 meteor 5 frame. Do you think I should remove them to see if that works. Thanks for any help. That video is on my channel. Thank you very much for any help and I left a like
I used to have a lot of noise. What solved for me is that I've used 5v to power my camera. Now it's super clear without any cap.
P.s. my esc and cheap and my motors are destroyed
Just came home disappointed I wasn't able to fly because my 5" started getting bad video noise with the motors spinning. Came home and used betaflight to narrow it down to one motor on the bench, cleaned it out and all seemed fine for a minute, then it came back. Funny thing is if I loosen the motor screws it goes away, but when I tighten it down the noise back, in video and audibly :/. Finally after re-taping the racewire down and fiddling with it a bunch I was able to tighten it down without the noise coming through, pushing the motor wires around where they enter the motor seems to affect it.
or a bad motor bearing/ slight bent bell housing would cause some noise
Dude, we really need a link to those low esr capacitor, or at least more info about them!
What props u using man ??
My ARRIS X220 rattled when i ramp up throttle but i cant pinpoint where it is coming from also when it is in the air the yaw twitches back and forth HELP
Nice
I get 1 big noisy line from the top to bottom of screen at approximately 2 time in a sec... on the bench... any idea ?
thank you 👍👍🍺❤️
vtx directly to cam is the best way :D
I got the clear view racing 2.0 and straight away the video quality is lower than the standard fat shark module. Then when I go to fly it seems like the quality cuts out just as soon as the cheap fat shark module. Any ideas?
My fpv feed breaks up at about 50 meters on 350 mw, is this normal?
Help would be much appreciated. 👍
I think every time I go order something from banggood I am going to load up youtube and go through your links and I hope everyone follows suit.
+Rick Flare Thanks Rick really do appreciate it. :)
I immediately get noise as soon as I arm my quad. When it's unarmed, there's no noise at all. Please help
I have electric noise now also on my build ...when I throttle up its there . It I dont its clean... I replaced the vtx pigtail and desolderd the ground wire... stil its there
I crashed my drone and the goggles now cut out constantly with even a little distance between the drone and the goggles. Everything looks ok on the drone as far as I can tell. Any ideas?
I have noise when I turn my transmitter on how do i fix this?
I think its my rapidfire.. happening more on all my drones. Im try changing my VRx antennas
One other issue is your motor screw length may be too long and is touching the motor windings. This causes sparking and throws interference everywhere.
I had clean video changed to a hobbywing 60 amp x rotor 4in 1 esc now I have honey cone lines in my video bad .I put a lots of low esr caps and didn't help motor always get warm but I tried everything to change that can't get them to run cool .I'm on 6s on 4s the lines are slightly less need help
🤘
Hey drone mesh, love your channel i just subscribed. I have an eachine aurora100 which started developing bad noise all of a sudden when punching the throttle. No crashes, nothing. It has a micro lc filter on board. The OSD is fine. Didn't change the pids. How would you go about troubleshooting that? I'm just guessing it's the cam/vtx combo so i ordered a replacement. Thanks!!
Check the antenna on the Camera where its soldered loose antenna connections create noise and seems logical to me from you are stating.
Thanks for the sub :)
Drone Mesh but still it's only when i punch the throttle. On the bench the image is crystal clear, no noise., so i'm thinking that can't be the antenna? Gonna change the micro lc filter as well.
Diatone mamba stack can't get rid of the noise and no matter what I do it's the noisiest setup ever
What is the capacitor you mentioned? Low A-Star?
Low ESR capacitor
I have a problem with my vtx showing noise then loss of video for about a sec. I am going to get 1000uf 35v panisonic. I hope that it work. I never had to use a cap before, but it is my 1st 30a esc, it also dys.
Ive had noise from the sma connector rubbing on frame too.
omg all those things i couldnt think of even though they are so obvious.. thx
That's how it is! That's why I love the Drone community, we all help each other!
Got similar issue at quite long time because hadn't any other good spot to fix the antenna. So I mounted SMA connector it on carbon frame hole and effectively grounded my quad frame with blind FPV spots in result :) Later I started to isolate antenna SMA connector. Now I'm flying with F200 frame which have textolite mount for antenna which isolate SMA connector - works good. Anyway - any good idea how to isolate SMA connector from frame if there are no other good option to mount antenna than only screw it to frame hole?
Try to find insulating fibre washers that have a shoulder on both sides of the frame. Washers must be non-metalic. www.digikey.com/products/en/hardware-fasteners-accessories/washers-bushing-shoulder/583?k=fiber%20washer
Hey I like your videos very informative not many like you out there so thanks in advance for the help you probably already given me. But to the main question I've checked everything as stated in the video and when I fly a battery it has quite a bit of noise then when I fly another one and the noise is barely noticeable and this is on and off the batteries are the same.?
+blaz1 I don't understand can you go into detail
Drone Mesh I'll fly a battery and I have noise. Then I'll plug in a new battery few minutes later and there will be no noise or very little
+blaz1 Check your vtx sma port possible hitting the frame.
Drone Mesh already did I have double sided tape so it won't make contact
Drone Mesh
Hey buddy I figured out the problem it was actually my antenna that came apart at the connector. But I appreciate everything and all your videos and the help you give thanks again.
Solved my noise by CONNECTING CAMERA DIRECTLY TO VTX (V,GND, data)!!
frankyoualot data meaning as in the video in wire? pls enlighten me :)
yes, everything from camera goes straight to vtx, was something i didn't understand as a noob, i did install an lc filter from power to vtx on my Wizard, and that alleviated lines in my video
fresh build with a ts5823, horrible noise as soon as i take off. this is my first build and i have no experience building a 5" quad (i have built a 450 before). i am currently moving all wires as far away as possible from my vtx (previously had them zip tied super close to the main part of the vtx. it is connected to the 12v of my pdb. camera is an eachine 1000tvl ccd and it is connected to the 5v on my pdb. frame is a qav210 clone, so there is not much real estate for routing wires. i am using my flight controller's built in osd and there is no flickering. pdb is a matek xt60. i am using a 4in1 esc. any tips?
Marcus McClickbaity I used that same vtx and I have horrible noise, its running vbat, it couldnt even run the camera on the 5v out. I would get brown outs. Ive got a 1000uf on the main leads and another 470uf stuffed inside. All I'm missing is a 8.3regulator for the vtx, instead of vbat. I figured with that much caps it would be crystal. Its not, but my other rigs with unify if, and unify pro 5v v3 are flawless, no noise. I'm thinking its the vtx need to be regulated, but I have no room in this frog.
Hi, I really love your videos! I have a kwad that just restarts midair! I use emax bullet, tmotor f60 2200kv, matek f405 with the fchub, unify pro 5v
+Elliot VBR Does this happen on punch outs or after 1 minute of flight?
Drone Mesh After a minute of flight
+Elliot VBR Can you try a new lipo?
Drone Mesh I tried it numerous times with different lipo's and this doesn't help
+Elliot VBR Are you sure it restarts in mid and what makes you say it restarts.
Your quad is missing a screw. The top plate, left side in front of the GoPro.
That's a good eye!
Use grounded coaxial wire for your FPV signal line. Mine became crystal clear after I use it.
IRFZ44 interesting. Is only the inner part of the cable connected? Or did you solder the outer cable to the ground?
Any shielded wire will work. The outer part should be grounded and the inner part is for the signal line. This wire protect against external electrical noise.
IRFZ44 thanks
I have experience with analog video connections between devices so small coaxial cable for camera->FC(OSD)->VTX connection was first about what I thought. Unfortunately doing it correctly involve crimping an new terminals to camera and VTX connector as well. I don't have crimping tools and connector terminals for 1.0mm and 1.25mm JST connectors so I put that idea back until I get them. Twisting signal wires is easier, but coaxial will give cleaner signal - seems it is worth to try.
Solder one end of the cable shield to ground otherwise you could create a condition known as ground loop if real power flows through the shield. best grounded at the FPV end.
What about when osd and buzzer stops working? Most of the time after a few punchouts
I think it could be because of 5v regulator. Try to use external one for anithing that you power from board
Another stupid and funny FPV noise issue. After accidental squeezing through tree branches I noticed stripes in FPV video again. Later I found that antenna came a bit loose (obviously - after branch kissing). For sure I completely unscrewed antenna and only then realized that I mounted antenna with RP-SMA male connector to VTX SMA female connector (both have holes in middle) in hurry to get flying until is not too dark outside. It was good that I didn't lost FPV feed completely.
Try showing fpv video before and after
Sometimes u just need to clain ur vtx if it is dirty
Anyone else only get noise when they go over half throttle or punch out? I’ve tried caps on all esc and an LC filter and running cam/vtx to common ground and isolating antenna from the frame...I’m stumped. Running stock PIDs, F60 2200’s, 6x4.5 HQ’s.
Just saw the reply from SteelRainFPV. Gonna soft mount the motors. Will let y’all know if it helped.
Do you have a link to the capacitors you prefer?
SHansard literally any you can find them in computers and stuff
Goddamn I forgot the days if hard mounted sma ports. What a world lmao
Im lucky.. always use 330 uf 25v caps on all esc.. I run my vtx directly from bat solderpads.
clean video transmission.
have not had a quad since doing so that has noise.
Also i always strap the antenna with 3 stripes.. also isolate the sma connector from the carbon frame.
+2663540 Your a beast ^_^
2663540
Bro, you lost a prop.
XD
One that tricked me was a loose middle lens. It looks similar to ESC noise on a Cmos style camera as it causes a rolling shutter effect that looks like ESC noise. The Foxeer 1.8mm lens seems to come loose in the middle lens a lot.
Sickocrow yes. Even the outer lens I have had issues with. Camera issues are huge. Also had the camera carbon upright plates loose.
Middle lens? Is there another lens inside of the lens housing on these cameras? Mine is a Foxeer 1177, which is CCD I believe.
osheathedj The lens we use typically are 3 lens in total, and maybe a IR block piece of glass in the back as well. The front and rear one you can see obviously, and if you look into the front you can make out the middle lens which makes the bubble looking shape inside the front.
How would one fix the middle lens if it were to become unfocused?
Sickocrow How would one fix a middle lens that had become loose on my cmos eagle 2?
Im having problems with my BFF3 board. I am barely getting any range on a 600mW VTX. I have tried 3 different VTXs, re-wired differently 4 or 5 times, added a capacitor, tried different antennas, added a LC filter, moved the VTX, and still barely any range. The ESCs are brand new without damage. No matter what I do, I cant seem to get a signal. Im getting less range than a 25mW VTX. Im ready to tear this thing apart. Anbody have suggestions?
Ninja Sauce could be on channel close to your vtx. I had this issue and have not had a problem since
Maybe a bad rx.
Typa fpv this was my problem. Such an easy solution and small amateur oversight.
I found out that these boards have problems with the voltage regulators. That was my issue. I had to add a pdb. But that kinda defeats the purpose of the BFF3.